before you, are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen glaz'd
Dishes: Then, for the _Oxoleon_; Take of clear, and perfectly good
_Oyl-Olive_, three Parts; of sharpest _Vinegar_ ([67]sweetest of all
_Condiments_) _Limon_, or Juice of _Orange_, one Part; and therein let
steep some Slices of _Horse-Radish_, with a little _Salt_; Some in a
separate _Vinegar_, gently bruise a _Pod_ of _Guinny-Pepper_, straining
both the _Vinegars_ apart, to make Use of Either, or One alone, or of
both, as they best like; then add as much _Tewkesbury_, or other dry
_Mustard_ grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingle
all these very well together; but pour not on the _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_,
'till immediately before the _Sallet_ is ready to be eaten: And then
with the _Yolk_ of two new-laid _Eggs_ (boyl'd and prepar'd, as before
is taught) squash, and bruise them all into mash with a Spoon; and
lastly, pour it all upon the _Herbs_, stirring, and mingling them 'till
they are well and throughly imbib'd; not forgetting the Sprinklings of
_Aromaticks_, and such Flowers, as we have already mentioned, if you
think fit, and garnishing the Dish with the thin Slices of
_Horse-Radish_, _Red Beet_, _Berberries_, &c.
_Note_, That the _Liquids_ may be made more, or less _Acid_, as is most
agreeable to your Taste.
These _Rules_, and _Prescriptions_ duly _Observ'd_; you have a _Sallet_
(for a Table of Six or Eight Persons) _Dress'd_, and Accommodated
_secundum Artem_: For, as the [68]Proverb has it,
[Greek: 'Ou ôantos andros esin artusai kalôs.]
_Non est cujusvis rectè condire_.
And now after all we have advanc'd in favour of the _Herbaceous_ Diet,
there still emerges a third Inquiry; namely, Whether the Use of _Crude
Herbs_ and _Plants_ are so wholesom as is pretended?
What Opinion the Prince of Physicians had of them, we shall see
hereafter; as also what the Sacred Records of elder Times seem to infer,
before there were any Flesh-Shambles in the World; together with the
Reports of such as are often conversant among many Nations and People,
who to this Day, living on _Herbs_ and _Roots_, arrive to incredible
Age, in constant Health and Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the
_Air_ and _Climate_, _Custom_, _Constitution_, &c. should be inquir'd
into; especially, when we compare the _Antediluvians_ mention'd _Gen._
1. 29--the whole _Fifth_ and _Ninth_ Chapters, _ver._ 3. confining them
to _Fruit_ and wholesom Sallets: I deny not that both the _Air_ and
_Earth_ might then be less humid and clammy, and consequently Plants,
and Herbs better fermented, concocted, and less Rheumatick, than since,
and presently after; to say nothing of the infinite Numbers of putrid
Carcasses of Dead Animals, perishing in the Flood, (of which I find
few, if any, have taken notice) which needs must have corrupted the
Air: Those who live in Marshes, and Uliginous Places (like the Hundreds
of _Essex_) being more obnoxious to _Fevers_, _Agues_, _Pleurisies_,
and generally unhealthful: The Earth also then a very Bog, compar'd
with what it likely was before that destructive _Cataclysm_, when
Men breath'd the pure _Paradisian_ Air, sucking in a more _æthereal_,
nourishing, and baulmy _Pabulum_, so foully vitiated now, thro' the
Intemperance, Luxury, and softer Education and Effeminacy of the
Ages since.
_Custom_, and _Constitution_ come next to be examin'd, together with
the Qualities, and _Vertue_ of the Food; and I confess, the two first,
especially that of _Constitution_, seems to me the more likely Cause of
Health, and consequently of Long-life; which induc'd me to consider of
what Quality the usual _Sallet_ Furniture did more eminently consist,
that so it might become more safely applicable to the Temper, Humour,
and Disposition of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixtures
might be regulated and proportion'd: There's no doubt, but those whose
Constitutions are Cold and Moist, are naturally affected with Things
which are Hot and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and Dry Complexions,
with such as cool and refrigerate; which perhaps made the _Junior
Gordian_ (and others like him) prefer the _frigidæ Mensæ_ (as of old
they call'd _Sallets_) which, according to _Cornelius Celsus_, is the
fittest Diet for _Obese_ and Corpulent Persons, as not so Nutritive, and
apt to Pamper: And consequently, that for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated;
such Herby Ingredients should be made choice of, as warm, and cherish
the Natural Heat, depure the Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive
the Spirits: And therefore my _Lord_ [69]_Bacon_ shews what are best
Raw, what Boil'd, and what Parts of Plants fittest to nourish. _Galen_
indeed seems to exclude them all, unless well accompanied with their due
Correctives, of which we have taken care: Notwithstanding yet, that even
the most _Crude_ and _Herby_, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially be
Hot, and Strengthning, as we find in the most vigorous Animals, whose
Food is only Grass. 'Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially mingl'd,
and dress'd a _Sallet_ for them in every field, besides what they
distinguish by Smell; nor question I, but Man at first knew what Plants
and Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his Natural Sagacity, and not
Experience; which since by Art, and Trial, and long Observation of their
Properties and Effects, they hardly recover: But in all Events,
supposing with [70]_Cardan_, that Plants nourish little, they hurt as
little. Nay, Experience tells us, that they not only hurt not at all,
but exceedingly benefit those who use them; indu'd as they are with such
admirable Properties as they every day discover: For some Plants not
only nourish laudably, but induce a manifest and wholesom Change; as
_Onions_, _Garlick_, _Rochet_, &c. which are both nutritive and warm;
_Lettuce_, _Purselan_, the _Intybs_, &c. and indeed most of the _Olera_,
refresh and cool: And as their respective Juices being converted into
the Substances of our Bodies, they become _Aliment_; so in regard of
their Change and Alteration, we may allow them _Medicinal_; especially
the greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but of
very few (not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole _Materia
Medica_) which may be justly call'd _Infallible Specifics_, and upon
whose Performance we may as safely depend, as we may on such as
familiarly we use for a Crude _Herb-Sallet;_ discreetly chosen, mingl'd,
and dress'd accordingly: Not but that many of them may be improv'd, and
render'd better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in _Oyl_, _Vinegar_,
and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not in all, nay,
perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I said, the Choice, Mixture,
Constitution, and _Season_ rightly be understood) we stand up in Defence
and Vindication of our _Sallet_, against all Attacks and Opposers
whoever.
We have mentioned _Season_ and with the great _Hippocrates_, pronounce
them more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when those Parts
of Plants us'd in _Sallet_ are yet tender, delicate, and impregnated
with the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refresh, and allay the Heat and
Drought of the Hot and _Bilious_, Young and over-_Sanguine_, Cold,
_Pituit_, and Melancholy; in a word, for Persons of all Ages, Humours,
and Constitutions whatsoever.
To this of the _Annual Seasons_, we add that of _Culture_ also, as of
very great Importance: And this is often discover'd in the taste and
consequently in the Goodness of such Plants and _Salleting_, as are
Rais'd and brought us fresh out of the Country, compar'd with those
which the Avarice of the _Gardiner_, or Luxury rather of the Age, tempts
them to force and _Resuscitate_ of the most desirable and delicious
Plants.
It is certain, says a [71]Learned Person, that about populous Cities,
where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early _Salleting_, nothing
is more unwholsom: Men in the Country look so much more healthy and
fresh; and commonly are longer liv'd than those who dwell in the Middle
and Skirts of vast and crowded Cities, inviron'd with rotten Dung,
loathsome and common Lay Stalls; whose noisome Steams, wafted by the
Wind, poison and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with those
pernicious Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the _Hot Beds_
for the raising those _Præcoces_ indeed, and forward Plants and Roots
for the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original, cannot
but produce malignant and ill Effects to those who feed upon them. And
the same was well observ'd by the _Editor_ of our famous _Roger Bacon's_
Treatise concerning the _Cure of Old Age_, and _Preservation of Youth_:
There being nothing so proper for _Sallet Herbs_ and other _Edule
Plants_, as the Genial and Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich'd
with well-digested Compost (when requisite) without any Mixture of
Garbage, odious Carrion, and other filthy Ordure, not half consum'd and
ventilated and indeed reduc'd to the next Disposition of Earth it self,
as it should be; and that in Sweet, [72]Rising, Aery and moderately
Perflatile Grounds; where not only _Plants_ but _Men_ do last, and live
much longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would prefer Corn, and
other Grain rais'd from _Marle_, _Chalk_, _Lime_, and other sweet Soil
and Amendments, before that which is produc'd from the _Dunghil_ only.
Beside, Experience shews, that the Rankness of _Dung_ is frequently the
Cause of Blasts and Smuttiness; as if the _Lord_ of the _Universe_,
by an Act of visible Providence would check us, to take heed of all
unnatural Sordidness and Mixtures. We sensibly find this Difference
in Cattle and their Pasture; but most powerfully in _Fowl_, from such
as are nourish'd with Corn, sweet and dry Food: And as of Vegetable
_Meats_, so of _Drinks_, 'tis observ'd, that the same Vine, according
to the Soil, produces a _Wine_ twice as heady as in the same, and a
less forc'd Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not to
determine any thing of the _Peach_ said to be Poison in _Persia_;
because 'tis a _Vulgar Error_.
Now, because among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean and
spurious Birth than what is so impatiently longed after as _Early
Asparagus_, &c. [73]Dr. _Lister_, (according to his communicative and
obliging Nature) has taught us how to raise such as our _Gardiners_
cover with nasty Litter, during the Winter; by rather laying of
Clean and Sweet _Wheat-Straw_ upon the Beds, _super-seminating_ and
over-strowing them thick with the Powder of bruised _Oyster-Shells_,
&c. to produce that most tender and delicious _Sallet_. In the mean
while, if nothing will satisfie save what is rais'd _Ex tempore_, and
by Miracles of Art so long before the time; let them study (like the
_Adepti_) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew; That having
some Friends of his accidentally come to Dine with him, and wanting an
early Sallet, Before they sate down to Table, sowed _Lettuce_ and some
other Seeds in a certain Composition of Mould he had prepared; which
within the space of two Hours, being risen near two Inches high,
presented them with a delicate and tender _Sallet_; and this, without
making use of any nauseous or fulsome Mixture; but of Ingredients not
altogether so cheap perhaps. _Honoratus Faber_ (no mean _Philosopher_)
shews us another Method by sowing the Seeds steep'd in _Vinegar_,
casting on it a good quantity of _Bean-Shell_ Ashes, irrigating them
with _Spirit of Wine_, and keeping the Beds well cover'd under dry
Matts. Such another Process for the raising early _Peas_ and _Beans_,
&c. we have the like [74]Accounts of: But were they practicable and
certain, I confess I should not be fonder of them, than of such as
the honest industrious Country-man's Field, and Good Wife's Garden
seasonably produce; where they are legitimately born in just time,
and without forcing Nature.
But to return again to _Health_ and _Long Life_, and the Wholesomness
of the Herby-Diet, [75]_John Beverovicius_, a Learn'd Physician (out of
_Peter Moxa_, a _Spaniard_) treating of the extream Age, which those of
_America_ usually arrive to, asserts in behalf of Crude and Natural
Herbs: _Diphilus_ of old, as [76]_Athenæus_ tells us, was on the other
side, against all the Tribe of _Olera_ in general; and _Cardan_ of late
(as already noted) no great Friend to them; Affirming Flesh-Eaters to
be much wiser and more sagacious. But this his [77]Learned Antagonist
utterly denies; Whole Nations, Flesh-Devourers (such as the farthest
_Northern_) becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than
the _Southern_; and such as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil,
and of deeper Penetration: Witness the _Chaldæans_, _Assyrians_,
_Ægyptians_, &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most
_Carnivorous_ Animals, compared with Grass Feeders, and the Ruminating
kind; as the _Hart_, _Camel_, and the longævous _Elephant_, and other
Feeders on Roots and Vegetables.
I know what is pretended of our Bodies being composed of _Dissimilar_
Parts, and so requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion,
keeping to the same _Species_; of which there is infinitely more Variety
in the _Herby_ Family, than in all Nature bessides: But the Danger is in
the _Generical_ Difference of _Flesh_, _Fish_, _Fruit_, &c. with other
made Dishes and exotic Sauces; which a wanton and expensive Luxury has
introduc'd; debauching the Stomach, and sharpening it to devour things
of such difficult Concoction, with those of more easie Digestion, and of
contrary Substances, more than it can well dispose of: Otherwise Food of
the same kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of [78]_Celsus_,
_Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiæ, genus, & modus
pertineat_. They are (says he) easily eaten and taken in: But regard
should be had to their Digestion, Nature, Quantity and Quality of the
Matter. As to that of _Dissimilar_ Parts, requiring this contended for
Variety: If we may judge by other Animals (as I know not why we may not)
there is (after all the late Contests about _Comparative Anatomy_) so
little Difference in the Structure, as to the Use of those Parts and
Vessels destin'd to serve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, and
other Separations for Supply of Life, _&c._ That it does not appear
why there should need any Difference at all of Food; of which the most
simple has ever been esteem'd the best, and most wholsome; according
to that of the [79]Naturalist, _Hominis cibus utilissimus simplex_.
And that so it is in other Animals, we find by their being so seldom
afflicted with Mens Distempers, deriv'd from the Causes above-mentioned:
And if the many Diseases of _Horses_ seem to [80]contradict it, I am apt
to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither'd
Stable Commons, which they must eat or starve, however qualified; being
restrained from their Natural and Spontaneous Choice, which Nature
and Instinct directs them to: To these add the Closeness of the Air,
standing in an almost continu'd Posture; besides the fulsome Drenches,
unseasonable Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant _Horse-Quacks_
and surly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Usage of their Masters in tiring
Journeys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, Colds,
_&c._ which wear out and destroy so many of those useful and generous
Creatures before the time: Such as have been better us'd, and some, whom
their more gentle and good-natur'd Patrons have in recompence of their
long and faithful service, dismiss'd, and sent to Pasture for the rest
of their Lives (as the _Grand Seignior_ does his _Meccha-Camel_) have
been known to live _forty_, _fifty_, nay (says [81]_Aristotle_,) no fewer
than _sixty five_ Years. When once Old _Par_ came to change his simple,
homely Diet, to that of the _Court_ and _Arundel-House_, he quickly sunk
and dropt away: For, as we have shew'd, the Stomack easily concocts
plain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and difficult Task, to
vanquish and overcome Meats of [82]different Substances: Whence we so
often see temperate and abstemious Persons, of a Collegiate Diet, very
healthy; Husbandsmen and laborious People, more robust, and longer liv'd
than others of an uncertain extravagant Diet.
[83]----_Nam variae res_
_Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius escae,_
_Quae simplex olim tibi sederit_----
For different Meats do hurt;
Remember how
When to one Dish confin'd, thou
healthier wast than now:
was _Osellus's Memorandum_ in the Poet.
Not that variety (which God has certainly ordain'd to delight and assist
our Appetite) is unnecessary, nor any thing more grateful, refreshing
and proper for those especially who lead sedentary and studious Lives;
Men of deep Thought, and such as are otherwise disturb'd with Secular
Cares and Businesses, which hinders the Function of the Stomach and
other Organs: whilst those who have their Minds free, use much Exercise,
and are more active, create themselves a natural Appetite, which needs
little or no Variety to quicken and content it.
And here might we attest the _Patriarchal_ World, nay, and many
Persons since; who living very temperately came not much short of the
_Post-Diluvians_ themselves, counting from _Abraham_ to this Day; and
some exceeding them, who liv'd in pure Air, a constant, tho' course and
simple Diet; wholsome and uncompounded Drink; that never tasted _Brandy_
or _Exotic Spirits_; but us'd moderate Exercise, and observ'd good
Hours: For such a one a curious Missionary tells us of in Persia; who
had attain'd the Age of _four hundred_ Years, (a full _Century_ beyond
the famous _Johannes de Temporibus_) and was living _Anno_ 1636, and so
may be still for ought we know. But, to our Sallet.
Certain it is, Almighty God ordaining [84]_Herbs_ and _Fruit_ for the
Food of Men, speaks not a Word concerning _Flesh_ for two thousand
Years. And when after, by the _Mosaic_ Constitution, there were
Distinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanness of _Animals_;
_Plants_, of what kind soever, were left free and indifferent for every
one to choose what best he lik'd. And what if it was held undecent and
unbecoming the Excellency of Man's Nature, before Sin entred, and grew
enormously wicked, that any Creature should be put to Death and Pain for
him who had such infinite store of the most delicious and nourishing
Fruit to delight, and the Tree of Life to sustain him? Doubtless there
was no need of it. Infants sought the Mother's Nipple as soon as born;
and when grown, and able to feed themselves, run naturally to Fruit, and
still will choose to eat it rather than Flesh and certainly might so
persist to do, did not Custom prevail, even against the very Dictates of
Nature: Nor, question I, but that what the Heathen [85]_Poets_ recount
of the Happiness of the _Golden Age_, sprung from some Tradition they
had received of the _Paradisian_ Fare, their innocent and healthful
Lives in that delightful Garden. Let it suffice, that _Adam_, and his
yet innocent Spouse, fed on Vegetables and other Hortulan Productions
before the fatal Lapse; which, by the way, many Learned Men will hardly
allow to have fallen out so soon as those imagine who scarcely grant
them a single Day; nay, nor half a one, for their Continuance in the
State of Original Perfection; whilst the sending him into the Garden;
Instructions how he should keep and cultivate it; Edict, and Prohibition
concerning the _Sacramental_ Trees; the Imposition of [86]Names, so
apposite to the Nature of such an Infinity of Living Creatures
(requiring deep Inspection) the Formation of _Eve_, a meet Companion to
relieve his Solitude; the Solemnity of their Marriage; the Dialogues and
Success of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot reasonably think made but
one Assault: And that they should so quickly forget the Injunction of
their Maker and Benefactor; break their Faith and Fast, and all other
their Obligations in so few Moments. I say, all these Particulars
consider'd; Can it be supposed they were so soon transacted as those do
fancy, who take their Measure from the Summary _Moses_ gives us, who did
not write to gratifie Mens Curiosity, but to transmit what was necessary
and sufficient for us to know.
This then premis'd (as I see no Reason why it should not) and that
during all this Space they liv'd on _Fruits_ and _Sallets_; 'tis little
probable, that after their Transgression, and that they had forfeited
their Dominion over the Creature (and were sentenc'd and exil'd to a
Life of Sweat and Labour on a cursed and ungrateful Soil) the offended
God should regale them with Pampering _Flesh_, or so much as suffer
them to slay the more innocent Animal: Or, that if at any time they had
Permission, it was for any thing save Skins to cloath them, or in way of
Adoration, or _Holocaust_ for Expiation, of which nothing of the _Flesh_
was to be eaten. Nor did the Brutes themselves subsist by Prey (tho'
pleas'd perhaps with Hunting, without destroying their Fellow Creatures)
as may be presum'd from their long Seclusion of the most Carnivorous
among them in the Ark.
Thus then for two thousand Years, the Universal Food was _Herbs_ and
_Plants_; which abundantly recompens'd the Want of _Flesh_ and other
luxurious Meats, which shortened their Lives so many hundred Years; the
[87][Greek: makro-biotê-a] of the Patriarchs, which was an Emblem of
Eternity as it were (after the new Concession) beginning to dwindle to
a little Span, a Nothing in Comparison.
On the other side, examine we the present Usages of several other
Heathen Nations; particularly (bessides the _ægyptian_ Priests of old)
the _Indian Bramins_, Relicts of the ancient _Gymnosophists_ to this
Day, observing the Institutions of their Founder. _Flesh_, we know was
banish'd the _Platonic_ Tables, as well as from those of _Pythagoras_;
(See [88]_Porphyry_ and their Disciples) tho' on different Accounts.
Among others of the Philosophers, from _Xenocrates_, _Polemon_, &c. we
hear of many. The like we find in [89]_Clement Alexand._ [90]_Eusebius_
names more. _Zeno_, _Archinomus_, _Phraartes_, _Chiron_, and others,
whom _Lærtius_ reckons up. In short, so very many, especially of the
Christian Profession, that some, even of the ancient [91]Fathers
themselves, have almost thought that the Permission of eating Flesh to
_Noah_ and his Sons, was granted them no otherwise than _Repudiation_ of
Wives was to the _Jews_, namely, for _the Hardness of their Hearts_, and
to satisfie a murmuring Generation that a little after loathed _Manna_
it self, and _Bread from Heaven_. So difficult a thing it is to subdue
an unruly Appetite; which notwithstanding [92]_Seneca_ thinks not so
hard a Task; where speaking of the Philosopher _Sextius_, and _Socion's_
(abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance) he celebrates the Advantages of the
_Herby_ and _Sallet_ Diet, as _Physical_, and _Natural_ Advancers of
Health and other Blessings; whilst Abstinence from Flesh deprives Men of
nothing but what _Lions_, _Vultures_, Beasts and birds of Prey, blood
and gorge themselves withal, The whole _Epistle_ deserves the Reading,
for the excellent Advice he gives on this and other Subjects; and how
from many troublesome and slavish Impertinencies, grown into Habit and
Custom (old as he was) he had Emancipated and freed himself: Be this
apply'd to our present excessive Drinkers of Foreign and _Exotic_
Liquors. And now
I am sufficiently sensible how far, and to how little purpose I am gone
on this _Topic_: The Ply is long since taken, and our raw _Sallet_ deckt
in its best Trim, is never like to invite Men who once have tasted
_Flesh_ to quit and abdicate a Custom which has now so long obtain'd.
Nor truly do I think Conscience at all concern'd in the Matter, upon any
Account of Distinction of _Pure_ and _Impure_; tho' seriously consider'd
(as _Sextius_ held) _rationi magis congrua_, as it regards the cruel
Butcheries of so many harmless Creatures; some of which we put to
merciless and needless Torment, to accommodat them for exquisite and
uncommon _Epicurism_. There lies else no positive Prohibition;
Discrimination of Meats being [93]Condemn'd as the _Doctrine of Devils_:
Nor do Meats _commend us to God_. One eats _quid vult_ (of every thing:)
another _Olera_, and of _Sallets_ only: But this is not my Business,
further than to shew how possible it is by so many Instances and
Examples, to live on wholsome Vegetables, both long and happily: For so