Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of
different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they
different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and
activity of some Plants lie in the _Root_; and even the _Leaves_ of
some _Bitter-Roots_ are sweet, and _è contra_. Of others, in the _Stem_,
_Leaves_, _Buds_, _Flowers_, &c. Some exert their Vigour without
_Decoction_; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again
_Raw_, and best in Consort; some alone, and _per se_ without any [Greek:
skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken
by the _Collector_, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and
that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the _cruder Salleting_)
of the _Oluscula_, and _ex foliis pubescentibus_, or (as _Martial_ calls
them) _Prototomi rudes_, and very tenderest Parts _Gems_, young _Buds_,
and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes
find in the _Craws_ of the _Wood-Culver_, _Stock-Dove_, _Partridge_,
_Pheasants_, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural _Sallet_,
pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands.
I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients
be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd,
dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather
discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially
_Lettuce_, which Dr. [57]_Muffet_ thinks impairs their Vertue; but this,
I suppose he means of the _Cabbage_-kind, whose heads are sufficiently
protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them
remain a while in the _Cullender_, to drain the superfluous moisture:
And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and
so they will be in perfect condition to receive the _Intinctus_
following.
II. That the _Oyl_, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary,
as to have obtain'd the name of _Cibarium_ (and with us of _Sallet-Oyl_)
be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of
a pallid _Olive_ green, without Smell, or the least touch of _rancid_,
or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth,
light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine _Omphacine_,
and native _Luca Olives_ afford, fit to allay the tartness of _Vinegar_,
and other _Acids_, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes.
Some who have an aversion to _Oyl_, substitute fresh _Butter_ in its
stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means
to be allow'd.
III. _Thirdly_, That the _Vinegar_ and other liquid _Acids_, perfectly
clear, neither sowre, _Vapid_ or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar,
whether Distill'd, or otherwise _Aromatiz'd_, and impregnated with
the Infusion of _Clove-gillyflowers_, _Elder_, _Roses_, _Rosemary_,
_Nasturtium_, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.
A _Verjuice_ not unfit for _Sallet_, is made by a _Grape_ of that Name,
or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes, press'd and put
into a small Vessel to ferment.
IV. _Fourthly_, That the _Salt_ (_aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum_,
as _Plutarch_ calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so great
a resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimes
merited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest _Bay grey-Salt_; moderately
dried, and _contus'd_, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, as
of _Sugar_ also, which some mingle with the _Salt_ (as warming without
heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty;
provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of
_Sallets_, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful
_Saline Acid_-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be
most esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been
so nice, and luxuriously curious as for the heightning, and (as they
affect to speak) giving the utmost _poinant_ and _Relevèe_ in lieu of
our vulgar _Salt_, to recommend and cry-up the _Essential-Salts_ and
_Spirits_ of the most Sanative Vegetables; or such of the _Alcalizate_
and _Fixt_; extracted from the _Calcination_ of _Baulm_, _Rosemary_,
_Wormwood_, _Scurvy-grass_, &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant,
we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreshing _Cordials_, and
all the _Materia Medica_ out of the _Salt-Cellar_ only: But to say no
more of this Impertinence, as to _Salts_ of _Vegetables_; many indeed
there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however
different in _Taste_, _Crystals_, and _Figure_: It being a question,
whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their _Simples_,
unless they could be made without _Colcination_. _Franciscus Redi_,
gives us his Opinion of this, in a _Process_ how they are to be
prepar'd; and so does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd)
whether _Lixivial_, _Essential_, _Marine_, or other factitious _Salts_
of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But since 'tis
thought all _Fixed Salts_ made the _common way_, are little better than
our _common Salt_, let it suffice, that our _Sallet-Salt_ be of the best
ordinary _Bay-Salt_, clean, bright, dry, and without claminess.
Of _Sugar_ (by some call'd _Indian-Salt_) as it is rarely us'd in
_Sallet_, it should be of the best refined, white, hard, close, yet
light and sweet as the _Madera's_: Nourishing, preserving, cleansing,
delighting the Taste, and preferrable to _Honey_ for most uses. _Note_,
That both _this_, _Salt_, and _Vinegar_, are to be proportion'd to the
Constitution, as well as what is said of the Plants themselves. The one
for cold, the other for hot stomachs.
V. That the _Mustard_ (another noble Ingredient) be of the best
_Tewksberry_; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest _Yorkshire
Seed_, exquisitely sifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little
(not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the consistence of
a Pap with _Vinegar_, in which shavings of the _Horse-Radish_ have been
steep'd: Then cutting an _Onion_, and putting it into a small Earthen
_Gally-Pot_, or some thick _Glass_ of that shape; pour the _Mustard_
over it, and close it very well with a _Cork_. There be, who preserve
the Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Glass, to
temper, and have it fresh when they please. But what is yet by some
esteem'd beyond all these, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the _Indian
Nasturtium_, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little
_Levain_, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other
_Mustard_ should be.
_Note_, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a
polish'd _Cannon-Bullet_, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is most
preferr'd, ground in a _Quern_ contriv'd for this purpose only.
VI. _Sixthly_, That the _Pepper_ (white or black) be not bruis'd to
too small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here
let me mention the _Root_ of the _Minor Pimpinella_, or small _Burnet
Saxifrage_; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other
_Peppers_, and more wholsom.
Of other _Strewings_ and _Aromatizers_, which may likewise be admitted
to inrich our _Sallet_, we have already spoken, where we mention
_Orange_ and _Limon-peel_; to which may also be added, _Jamaica-Pepper_,
_Juniper-berries_, &c. as of singular Vertue.
Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) _Saffron_, which the
_German_ Housewives have a _way_ of forming into Balls, by mingling it
with a little _Honey_; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and
sprinkle it over their _Sallets_ for a noble _Cordial_. Those of _Spain_
and _Italy_, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling its
golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so apt
to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little
incourage its admittance into our _Sallet_.
VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid _Eggs_,
boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the _Mustard_,
_Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the
Herbs.
VIII. _Eighthly_, (according to the _super_-curious) that the _Knife_,
with which the _Sallet Herbs_ are cut (especially _Oranges_, _Limons_,
&c.) be of _Silver_, and by no means of _Steel_, which all _Acids_ are
apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of.
IX. _Ninthly_ and _Lastly_, That the _Saladiere_, (Sallet-Dishes)
be of _Porcelane_, or of the _Holland-Delft-Ware_; neither too deep
nor shallow, according to the quantity of the _Sallet_ Ingredients;
_Pewter_, or even _Silver_, not at all so well agreeing with _Oyl_ and
_Vinegar_, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That there
ought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid
_Vehicles_; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they
are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually
stirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who are
husbands of their _Oyl_, pour at first the _Oyl_ alone, as more apt
to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingled
and beaten with the _Acids_; which they pour on last of all; and 'tis
incredible how small a quantity of _Oyl_ (in this quality, like the
gilding of _Wyer_) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful assembly
of _Sallet-Herbs_.
The _Sallet-Gatherer_ likewise should be provided with a light, and
neatly made _Withy-Dutch-Basket_, divided into several Partitions.
Thus instructed and knowing in the _Apparatus_; the _Species_,
_Proportions_, and manner of _Dressing_, according to the several
Seasons you have in the following Table.
It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble [59]Mr. _Boyle_, what _Herbs_
were proper and fit to make _Sallets_ with, and how best to order them?
we have here (by the Assistance of Mr. _London_, His Majesty's Principal
Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding _Thirty
Five_; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving
out, any other _Sallet_-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, under
these three or four Heads.
But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, and
therefore we have divided them into the _Quarterly Seasons_, each
containing and lasting Three Months.
_Note_, That by _Parts_ is to be understood a _Pugil_; which is no
more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next
Fingers. By _Fascicule_ a reasonable full Grip, or Handful.
* * * * *
[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their
original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section
headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these
new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually
indicate the restructuring. The original structure is _very_ wide.]
=========================================================================
Species. Ordering and Culture.
=========================================================================
/ 1. _Endive_, Tied-up to Blanch.
| 2. _Cichory_, \
| 3. _Sellery_, | Earth'd-up
IX. | 4. _Sweet-Fennel_, |
Blanch'd | 5. _Rampions_, /
|
| 6. _Roman_ \ \ Tied-up to Blanch.
| 7. _Cosse_ | _Lettuce,_ |
| 8. _Silesian_ | | Tied close up.
\ 9. _Cabbage_ / / Pome and Blanch of themselves.
/ 10. _Lob-Lettuce_, \
| 11. _Corn-Sallet_, | Leaves, all of a midling size.
| 12. _Purslane_, /
|
XXVI. | 13. _Cresses_ broad, \ Seed-Leaves,
| 14. _Spinach_, curled, / and the next to them.
|
Green | 15. _Sorrel_, French, \ The fine young Leaves only,
Unblanch'd | 16. _Sorrel_, Greenland, / with the first Shoots.
|
| 17. _Radish_, Only the tender young Leaves.
| 18. _Cresses_, The Seed-Leaves, and those
| only next them.
| 19. _Turnip_, \
| 20. _Mustard_, | The Seed-Leaves only.
| 21. _Scurvy-grass_, /
|
| 22. _Chervil_, \ The young Leaves
| 23. _Burnet_, | immediately after
| 24. _Rocket_, Spanish, | the Seedlings.
| 25. _Persly_, /
|
| 26. _Tarragon_, \ The tender Shoots
| 27. _Mints_, / and Tops.
|
| 28. _Sampier_, \
| 29. _Balm_, | The young tender
| 30. _Sage_, Red, / Leaves and Shoots.
|
| 31. _Shalots_, \
| 32. _Cives_ and _Onion_, / The tender young leaves.
|
| 33. _Nasturtium_, Indian The Flowers and Bud-Flowers.
|
| 34. _Rampion_, Belgrade \ The Seed-Leaves
\ 35. _Trip-Madame_, / and young Tops.
=========================================================================
=========================================================================
Month. _January_, _February_, and _March_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.
/ _Rampions_, / 10 \
Blanch'd | _Endive_, | 2 |
as before | _Succory_, | 5 | Roots in Number.
| _Fennel_, Sweet. | 10 |
\ _Sellery_, \ 4 /
/ _Lamb-Lettuce_, \
| _Lob-Lettuce_, / A pugil of each.
|
| _Radish_, \
| _Cresses_, / Three parts each.
|
| _Turneps_, \
| _Mustard_, Seedlings, / Of each One part.
| _Scurvy-grass_,
| _Spinach_, Two parts.
| _Sorrel_, Greenland, \
Green and | _Sorrel_, French |
Unblanch'd | _Chervil_, sweet, | One part of each.
| _Burnet_, |
| _Rocket_, /
| Twenty large Leaves.
| _Tarragon_,
| _Balm_, \
| _Mint_, / One small part of each.
| _Sampier_,
| _Shalots_, \
| _Cives_, / Very few
|
| _Cabbage_, Winter. Two pugils or
\ small handfuls.
=========================================================================
Month. _April_, _May_, and _June_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.
/ _Lop_, \ \
Blanch'd | _Silesan_, Winter, | Lettuce. | Of each a pugil.
\ _Roman_, Winter, / /
/ _Radishes_, Three parts.
Green Herbs | _Cresses_, Two parts.
Unblanch'd. | _Purselan_, 1 Fasciat,
| or pretty full gripe
| _Sorrel_, French, Two parts.
Note, _That | _Sampier_, One part.
the young | _Onions_, young. Six parts.
Seedling | _Sage_-tops,_ the Red, Two parts.
Leaves of |
Orange and | _Persley_, \
Lemon may | _Cresses_, the Indian, |
all these | _Lettuce_, Belgrade, | Of each One part.
months be | _Trip-Madame_, |
mingled with | _Chervil_, sweet /
the Sallet._ |
\ _Burnet_, Two parts.
=========================================================================
Month. _July_, _August_, and _September_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.
Blanch'd, / Silesian _Lettuce_, One whole _Lettuce_.
_and may be |
eaten by | Roman _Lettuce_, \ Two parts.
themselves | _Cress_, /
with some_ |
Nasturtium- \ _Cabbage_, Four parts.
_flowers_.
/ _Cresses_, \
| _Nasturtium_, / Two parts.
|
| _Purslane_, \
| _Lop-Lettuce_, / One part.
|
Green Herbs | Belgrade, _or_ \
_by | Crumpen-_Lettuce_. / Two parts.
themselves |
or mingl'd | _Tarragon_, One part.
with the_ |
Blanch'd. | _Sorrel_, French \
| _Burnet_, / Two parts of each.
|
\ _Trip-Madame_, One part.
=========================================================================
Month. _October_, _November_, and _December_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.
/ _Endive. \ Two if large, four
| _Sellery_, | if small, Stalk and
| | part of the Root and
| / tenderest Leaves.
|
Blanch'd | _Lop-Lettuce_, \
| _Lambs-Lettuce_, / An handful of each.
|
| _Radish_, Three parts.
\ _Cresses_, Two parts.
/ _Turneps_, \
| _Mustard_ Seedlings, / One part of each.
Green |
| _Cresses_, broad, \
\ _Spinach_, / Two parts of each.
* * * * *
_Farther Directions concerning the proper_ Seasons _for the_ Gathering,
Composing, _and_ Dressing _of a_ Sallet.
And _First_, as to the _Season_ both _Plants_ and _Roots_ are then
properly to be _Gather'd_, and in prime, when most they abound with
Juice and in Vigour: Some in the _Spring_, or a little anticipating
it before they Blossom, or are in full Flower: Some in the _Autumnal_
Months; which later Season many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho' not in
such exuberance, yet as being then better concocted, and so render'd fit
for _Salleting_, 'till the Spring begins a fresh to put forth new, and
tender Shoots and Leaves.
This, indeed, as to the _Root_, newly taken out of the Ground is true;
and therefore should such have their _Germination_ stopt the sooner: The
approaching and prevailing Cold, both Maturing and Impregnating them; as
does Heat the contrary, which now would but exhaust them: But for those
other _Esculents_ and Herbs imploy'd in our _Composition_ of _Sallets_,
the early _Spring_, and ensuing Months (till they begin to mount, and
prepare to _Seed_) is certainly the most natural, and kindly Season
to collect and accommodate them for the Table. Let none then consult
_Culpeper_, or the _Figure-flingers_, to inform them when the governing
_Planet_ is in its _Exaltation_; but look upon the _Plants_ themselves,
and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions.
Moreover, in _Gathering_, Respect is to be had to their Proportions,
as provided for in the _Table_ under that Head, be the Quality
whatsoever: For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholsome than
_Lettuce_ and _Mustard_ for the _Head_ and _Eyes_; yet either of them
eaten in excess, were highly prejudicial to them both: Too much of
the _first_ extreamly debilitating and weakning the _Ventricle_, and
hastning the further decay of sickly _Teeth_; and of the _second_ the
_Optic Nerves_, and _Sight_ it self; the like may be said of all the
rest. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Person, well acquainted with the
Nature and Properties of _Sallet-Herbs_, &c. to be both the fittest
_Gatherer_ and _Composer_ too; which yet will require no great Cunning,
after once he is acquainted with our _Table_ and _Catalogue_.
We purposely, and _in transitu_ only, take notice here of the Pickl'd,
_Muriated_, or otherwise prepared Herbs; excepting some such Plants,
and Proportions of them, as are of hard digestion, and not fit to be
eaten altogether _Crude_, (of which in the _Appendix_) and among which
I reckon _Ash-keys_, _Broom-buds_ and _Pods_, _Haricos_, _Gurkems_,
_Olives_, _Capers_, the Buds and Seeds of _Nasturtia_, _Young
Wall-nuts_, _Pine-apples_, _Eringo_, _Cherries_, _Cornelians_,
_Berberries_, _&c._ together with several Stalks, Roots, and Fruits;
Ordinary Pot-herbs, _Anis_, _Cistus Hortorum_, _Horminum_, _Pulegium_,
_Satureia_, _Thyme_; the intire Family of Pulse and _Legumena_; or other
_Sauces_, _Pies_, _Tarts_, _Omlets_, _Tansie_, _Farces_, &c. _Condites_
and Preserves with _Sugar_ by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are all
of them the genuine Production of the _Garden_, and mention'd in our
_Kalendar_, together with their Culture; whilst we confine our selves
to such Plants and _Esculenta_ as we find at hand; delight our selves
to gather, and are easily prepar'd for an _Extemporary Collation_,
or to Usher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not more
Agreeable) Dishes, as the Custom is.
But there now starts up a Question, Whether it were better, or more
proper, to _Begin_ with _Sallets_, or End and Conclude with them? Some
think the harder Meats should first be eaten for better Concoction;
others, those of easiest Digestion, to make way, and prevent
Obstruction; and this makes for our _Sallets_, _Horarii_, and _Fugaces
Fructus_ (as they call 'em) to be eaten first of all, as agreeable to
the general Opinion of the great _Hippocrates_, and _Galen_, and of
_Celsus_ before him. And therefore the _French_ do well, to begin with
their _Herbaceous Pottage_, and for the _Cruder_, a Reason is given:
[60]_Prima tibi dabitur Ventri_ Lactuca _movendo_
_Utilis, & Poris fila refecta suis_.
And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time[61], [Greek: ho m
arkaioi], they anciently did quite the contrary,
[62]_Gratáque nobilium Lactuca ciborum_.
But of later Times, they were constant at the _Ante-coenia_, eating
plentifully of _Sallet_, especially of _Lettuce_, and more refrigerating
Herbs. Nor without Cause: For drinking liberally they were found to
expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the _genial Compotation_, the
spirituous Liquor gently conciliating Sleep: Besides, that being of a
crude nature, more dispos'd, and apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and disturb
a surcharg'd Stomach; they thought convenient to begin with _Sallets_,
and innovate the ancient Usage.
[63]----_Nam Lactuca innatat acri_
_Post Vinum Stomacho_----
For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat,
It floats upon the Stomach----
The _Spaniards_, notwithstanding, eat but sparingly of Herbs at Dinner,
especially _Lettuce_, beginning with _Fruit_, even before the _Olio_ and
Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking their Wine pure, and eating the
best Bread in the World; so as it seems the Question still remains
undecided with them,
[64]_Claudere quae coenas_ Lactuca _solebat avorum_
_Dic mihi cur nostras inchoat illa dapes?_
The _Sallet_, which of old came in at last,
Why now with it begin we our Repast?
And now since we mention'd _Fruit_, there rises another Scruple:
Whether _Apples_, _Pears_, _Abricots_, _Cherries_, _Plums_, and other
Tree, and _Ort-yard-Fruit_, are to be reckon'd among _Salleting_; and
when likewise most seasonably to be eaten? But as none of these do
properly belong to our _Catalogue_ of _Herbs_ and _Plants_, to which
this Discourse is confin'd (bessides what we may occasionally speak of
hereafter) there is a very useful [65]Treatise on that Subject already
publish'd. We hasten then in the next place to the _Dressing_, and
_Composing_ of our Sallet: For by this time, our Scholar may long to
see the _Rules_ reduc'd to _Practice_, and Refresh himself with what
he finds growing among his own _Lactuceta_ and other Beds of the
_Kitchin-Garden_.
* * * * *
DRESSING
I am not ambitious of being thought an excellent _Cook_, or of those who
set up, and value themselves, for their skill in _Sauces_; such as was
_Mithacus_ a _Culinary Philosopher_, and other _Eruditæ Gulæ_; who read
Lectures of _Hautgouts_, like the _Archestratus_ in _Athenæus_: Tho'
after what we find the _Heroes_ did of old, and see them chining out the
slaughter'd _Ox_, dressing the Meat, and do the Offices of both _Cook_
and _Butcher_, (for so [66]_Homer_ represents _Achilles_ himself, and
the rest of those Illustrious _Greeks_) I say, after this, let none
reproach our _Sallet-Dresser_, or disdain so clean, innocent, sweet, and
Natural a Quality; compar'd with the Shambles Filth and _Nidor_, Blood
and Cruelty; whilst all the World were _Eaters_, and _Composers_ of
_Sallets_ in its best and brightest Age.
The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd, as above; Let the
_Endive_ have all its out-side Leaves stripped off, slicing _in_ the
White: In like manner the _Sellery_ is also to have the hollow green
Stem or Stalk trimm'd and divided; slicing-in the blanched Part, and
cutting the Root into four equal Parts.
_Lettuce_, _Gresses_, _Radish_, &c. (as was directed) must be
exquisitely pick'd, cleans'd, wash'd, and put into the Strainer;
swing'd, and shaken gently, and, if you please, separately, or all
together; Because some like not so well the _Blanch'd_ and Bitter
Herbs, if eaten with the rest: Others mingle _Endive_, _Succory_, and
_Rampions_, without distinction, and generally eat _Sellery_ by it
self, as also Sweet _Fennel_.
From _April_ till _September_ (and during all the Hot _Months_) may
_Guinny-Pepper_, and _Horse-Radish_ be left out; and therefore we only
mention them in the Dressing, which should be in this manner.