which it notably quickens and stirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes
Concoction. The _Italians_ steep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold
with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.
58. Scurvy-grass, _Cochlearia_, of the Garden, but especially that
of the Sea, is sharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like _Nasturtium_,
prevalent in the _Scorbute_. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted
in our Composition. See _Nasturtium Indicum_.
59. Sellery, _Apium Italicum_, (and of the _Petroseline_ Family)
was formerly a stranger with us (nor very long since in _Italy_) is
an hot and more generous sort of _Macedonian Persley_, or _Smallage_.
The tender Leaves of the _Blancht_ Stalk do well in our _Sallet_, as
likewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and short,
first peel'd and slit long wise, are eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_,
_Salt_, and _Peper_; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd
in the middle of the _Grand Sallet_, at our Great Mens Tables, and
_Prætors_ Feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board. _Caution_ is to be
given of a small red _Worm_, often lurking in these Stalks, as does the
green in _Fennil_.
Shallots. See _Onion_.
60. Skirrets, _Sisarum_; hot and moist, corroborating, and good for the
Stomach, exceedingly nourishing, wholsome and delicate; of all the
_Root-kind_, not subject to be Windy, and so valued by the Emperor
_Tiberius_, that he accepted them for Tribute.
This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, stew'd,
roasted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, sliced, or in pulp, is
very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore
something bitter; See what Culture and Education effects!
61. Sorrel, _Acetosa_: of which there are divers kinds. The _French
Acetocella_, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the _North_
of _England_; _Roman Oxalis_; the broad _German_, &c. but the best
is of _Green-Land:_ by nature cold, Abstersive, Acid, sharpning
Appetite, asswages Heat, cools the Liver, strengthens the Heart; is
an _Antiscorbutic_, resisting Putrefaction, and imparting so grateful
a quickness to the rest, as supplies the want of _Orange_, _Limon_,
and other _Omphacia_, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide
_Wood-Sorrel_.
62. Sow-thistle, _Sonchus_; of the _Intybus_-kind. _Galen_ was us'd
to eat it as _Lettuce_; exceedingly welcome to the late _Morocco._
Ambassador and his Retinue.
63. Sparagus, _Asparagus_ (_ab Asperitate_) temperately hot, and moist;
_Cordial_, _Diuretic_, easie of Digestion, and next to _Flesh_, nothing
more nourishing, as _Sim. Sethius_, an excellent Physician holds. They
are sometimes, but very seldom, eaten raw with _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; but
with more delicacy (the bitterness first exhausted) being so speedily
boil'd, as not to lose the _verdure_ and agreeable tenderness; which is
done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not esteem
the _Dutch_ great and larger sort (especially rais'd by the rankness of
the Beds) so sweet and agreeable, as those of a moderate size.
64. Spinach, _Spinachia_: of old not us'd in _Sallets_, and the oftner
kept out the better; I speak of the _crude_: But being boil'd to a
_Pult_, and without other Water than its own moisture, is a most
excellent Condiment with _Butter_, _Vinegar_, or _Limon_, for almost
all sorts of boil'd Flesh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis
_Laxative_ and _Emollient_, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and
(tho' by original a _Spaniard_) may be had at almost any Season, and
in all places.
Stone-Crop, _Sedum Minus_. See _Trick-Madame_.
65. Succory, _Cichorium_, an _Intube_; erratic and wild, with a narrow
dark Leaf, different from the _Sative_, tho' probably by culture only;
and for being very bitter, a little _edulcorated_ with _Sugar_ and
_Vinegar_, is by some eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the
Stomach than the Palate. See _Endive_.
66. Tansy, _Tanacetum_; hot and cleansing; but in regard of its
domineering relish, sparingly mixt with our cold _Sallet_, and much
fitter (tho' in very small quantity) for the Pan, being qualified with
the Juices of other fresh Herbs, _Spinach_, _Green Corn_, _Violet_,
_Primrose-Leaves_, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried
brownish, is eaten hot with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_, as one
of the most agreeable of all the boil'd _Herbaceous_ Dishes.
67. Tarragon, _Draco Herba_, of _Spanish_ Extraction; hot and spicy: The
Tops and young Shoots, like those of _Rochet_, never to be secluded our
Composition, especially where there is much _Lettuce_. 'Tis highly
cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakness
of the Ventricle, _&c._
68. Thistle, _Carduus Mariæ_; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thistle,
disarm'd of its Prickles, is worth esteem: The young Stalk about _May_,
being peel'd and soak'd in Water, to extract the bitterness, boil'd or
raw, is a very wholsome _Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Peper_;
some eat them sodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the
_Artichoak_; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, some preferr; both
Nourishing and Restorative.
69. Trick-Madame, _Sedum minus_, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moist,
grateful to the Stomach. The _Cimata_ and Tops, when young and tender,
dress'd as _Purselane_, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold _Sallet_.
70. Turnep, _Rapum_; moderately hot and moist: _Napus_; the long _Navet_
is certainly the most delicate of them, and best Nourishing. _Pliny_
speaks of no fewer than six sorts, and of several Colours; some of which
were suspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is
preferr'd; by others the red _Bohemian_. But of whatever kind, being
sown upon the _Hot-bed_, and no bigger than seedling _Radish_, they do
excellently in Composition; as do also the Stalks of the common
_Turnep_, when first beginning to Bud.
And here should not be forgotten, that wholsome, as well as agreeable
sort of _Bread_, we are [42]taught to make; and of which we have eaten
at the greatest Persons Tables, hardly to be distinguish'd from the best
of _Wheat_.
Let the _Turneps_ first be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till soft and
tender; then strongly pressing out the Juice, mix them together, and
when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal,
season it as you do other _Bread_, and knead it up; then letting the
Dough remain a little to _ferment_, fashion the Paste into Loaves, and
bake it like common Bread.
Some roast _Turneps_ in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with
_Sugar_ and _Butter_.
71. Vine, _Vitis_, the _Capreols_, _Tendrels_, and _Claspers_ (like
those of the _Hop_, &c.) whilst very young, have an agreeable _Acid_,
which may be eaten alone, or with other _Sallet_.
72. Viper-grass, _Tragopogon_, _Scorzonera_, _Salsifex_, &c. tho'
Medicinal, and excellent against the _Palpitation of the Heart_,
_Faintings_, _Obstruction of the Bowels_, &c. are besides a very sweet
and pleasant _Sallet_; being laid to soak out the bitterness, then
peel'd, may be eaten raw, or _Condited_; but best of all stew'd with
_Marrow_, _Spice_, _Wine_, &c. as _Artichoak_, _Skirrets_, &c. sliced or
whole. They likewise may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root
there is hardly growing.
73. Wood-Sorrel, _Trifolium acetosum_, or _Alleluja_, of the nature of
other _Sorrels_.
To all which might we add sundry more, formerly had in _deliciis_,
since grown _obsolete_ or quite neglected with us: As among the noblest
_Bulbs_, that of the _Tulip_; a Root of which has been valued not to
eat, but for the _Flower_ (and yet eaten by mistake) at more than an
hundred Pounds. The young fresh _Bulbs_ are sweet and high of taste.
The _Asphodil_ or _Daffodil_; a _Sallet_ so rare in _Hesiod's_ Days,
that _Lobel_ thinks it the _Parsnep_, tho' not at all like it; however
it was (with the _Mallow_) taken anciently for any _Edule_-Root.
The _Ornithogalons_ roasted, as they do _Chestnuts_, are eaten by the
_Italians_, the wild yellow especially, with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and
_Peper_. And so the small _tuberous_ Roots of _Gramen Amygdalosum_;
which they also roast, and make an _Emulsion_ of, to use in Broaths
as a great Restorative. The _Oxylapathum_, us'd of old; in the time of
_Galen_ was eaten frequently. As also _Dracontium_, with the Mordicant
_Arum Theophrasti_, which _Dodonæus_ teaches how to Dress. Nay, divers
of the _Satyrions_, which some condited with _Sugar_, others boil'd in
Milk for a great Nourisher, now discarded. But what think we of the
_Cicuta_, which there are who reckon among _Sallet_ Herbs? But whatever
it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these
add the _Viola Matronalis_, _Radix Lunaria_, &c. nay, the _Green Poppy_,
by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our
_Sallet_-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happen
to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten
in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robust
and strong constitutions? bessides the hazard of being mistaken in the
Names of divers _Simples_, not as yet fully agreed upon among the
Learned in _Botany_.
There are bessides several remaining, which tho' _Abdicated_ here
with us, find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries: As the large
_Heliotrope_ and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and shew its
golden Face) which being dress'd as the _Artichoak_, is eaten for a
dainty. This I add as a new Discovery. I once made _Macaroons_ with the
ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the _Turpentine_ did so domineer over all, that
it did not answer expectation. The _Radix Personata_ mounting with their
young Heads, _Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor_, when fresh and tender,
begins to come into the _Sallet_-Tribe. The pale whiter _Popy_, is eaten
by the _Genouese_. By the _Spaniards_, the tops of _Wormwood_ with _Oyl_
alone, and without so much as _Bread_; profitable indeed to the Stomach,
but offensive to the Head; As is also _Coriander_ and _Rue_, which
_Galen_ was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with _Oyl_ and
_Salt_, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of great
vertue against Infection. _Pliny_, I remember, reports it to be of such
effect for the Preservation of _Sight_; that the _Painters_ of his Time,
us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is still by the _Italians_
frequently mingled among their _Sallets_. The _Lapatha Personata_
(common _Burdock_) comes now and then to the best Tables, about _April_,
and when young, before the _Burrs_ and _Clots_ appear, being strip'd,
and the bitterness soaked out, treated as the _Chardoon_, is eaten in
_Poiverade_; Some also boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but
these may suffice; since as we find some are left off, and gone out, so
others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater
Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The _Cucumber_
it self, now so universally eaten, being accounted little better than
_Poyson_, even within our Memory, as already noted.
To conclude, and after all that has been said of Plants and _Salleting_,
formerly in great esteem, (but since obsolete and quite rejected); What
if the exalted Juice of the ancient _Silphium_ should come in, and
challenge the Precedency? It is a [43]Plant formerly so highly priz'd,
and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues; that as it was
dedicated to _Apollo_, and hung up in his Temple at _Delphi_; So we read
of one single Root brought to the Emperor _Nero_ for an extraordinary
Present; and the Drug so esteem'd, that the _Romans_ had long before
amass'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treasury, till _Julius
Cæsar_ rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In
a word, it was of that Account; that as a sacred Plant, those of the
_Cyrenaic Africa_, honour'd the very Figure of it, by stamping it on
the Reverse of their [44]Coin; and when they would commend a thing for
its worth to the Skies, [Greek: Bat-ou silphion], grew into a Proverb:
_Battus_ having been the Founder of the City _Cyrene_, near which it
only grew. 'Tis indeed contested among the Learned _Botanosophists_,
whether this Plant was not the same with _Laserpitium_, and the Laser it
yields, the odoriferous [45]_Benzoin_? But doubtless had we the true and
genuine _Silphium_ (for it appears to have been often sophisticated, and
a spurious sort brought into _Italy_) it would soon recover its pristine
Reputation, and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary;
since bessides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of
the Stomach, a Restorer of lost Appetite, and Masculine Vigour, _&c._
and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat.
But should we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is,
by many, thought to be no other than the [46]_Faetid Assa_ our nicer
_Sallet-Eaters_ (who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar
_Garlick_) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly
believe it: But as _Aristophanes_ has brought it in, and sufficiently
describ'd it; so the _Scholiast_ upon the place, puts it out of
Controversy: And that they made use both of the _Leaves_, _Stalk_, (and
_Extract_ especially) as we now do _Garlick_, and other _Hautgouts_ as
nauseous altogether. In the mean time, _Garcius_, _Bontius_, and others,
assure us, that the _Indians_ at this day universally sauce their
Viands with it; and the _Bramins_ (who eat no Flesh at all) inrich their
_Sallets_, by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it. Nor are some of
our own skilful _Cooks_ Ingnorant, how to condite and use it, with
the Applause of those, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the
richness of the Gust it has imparted, when it has been substituted
instead of all our _Cipollati_, and other seasonings of that Nature.
And thus have we done with the various _Species_ of all such _Esculents_
as may properly enter the Composition of our _Acetaria_, and cold
_Sallet_. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees,
and _primary Qualities_, which _Intend_ or _Remit_, as to the Scale of
_Heat_, _Cold_, _Driness_, _Moisture_, &c. (which is to be understood
according to the different Texture of their _component Particles_) it
has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of
the _Gatherer_, and _Sallet-Dresser_; how he ought to choose, sort,
and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together.
What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of
_Sallet_ Herbs, has been partly shew'd. I can therefore, by no means,
approve of that extravagant Fancy of some, who tell us, that a _Fool_
is as fit to be the _Gatherer_ of a _Sallet_ as a _Wiser_ Man. Because,
say they, one can hardly choose amiss, provided the Plants be green,
young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But sad experience
shews, how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the
deadly _Cicutæ_, _Hemlocks_, _Aconits_, &c. for Garden _Persley_, and
_Parsneps_; the _Myrrhis Sylvestris_, or _Cow-Weed_, for _Chaerophilum_,
(_Chervil_) _Thapsia_ for _Fennel_; the wild _Chondrilla_ for _Succory_;
_Dogs-Mercury_ instead of _Spinach_: _Papaver Corniculatum Luteum_, and
horn'd _Poppy_ for _Eringo_; _Oenanthe aquatica_ for the _Palustral
Apium_, and a world more, whose dire effects have been many times sudden
Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them
unwittingly: But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should
not prove so _deleterious_ and [47]unwholsome; yet may others of them
annoy the _Head_, _Brain_, and _Genus Nervosum_, weaken the _Eyes_,
offend the _Stomach_, affect the _Liver_, torment the _Bowels_, and
discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful _Symptoms_. And
therefore such _Plants_ as are rather _Medicinal_ than _Nourishing_ and
_Refreshing_, are studiously to be rejected. So highly necessary it is,
that what we sometimes find in _old Books_ concerning _Edules_ of other
Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of such as are
wholsome in ours, and among us) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer;
to prevent which we read of divers _Popes_ and _Emperors_, that had
sometimes Learned _Physicians_ for their _Master-Cooks_. I cannot
therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. _Ray_
[48](_Transact. Num._ 238.) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind, that
all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and
Plants to their Prejudice: Of such, I say, with our excellent [49]_Poet_
(a little chang'd)
_Happy from such conceal'd, if still do lie_,
_Of Roots and Herbs the_ unwholsome _Luxury_.
The Illustrious and Learned _Columna_ has, by observing what
[50]_Insects_ did usually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the
Plants. But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account,
as to its wholsomness: For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a _Peach_
or _Abricot_, after a _Snail_ has been Taster, I question whether it
might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other _Insects_:
Nor would one conclude, the _Hyoscyamus_ harmless, because the _Cimex_
feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. _Lyster_ has discover'd. Notice should
therefore be taken what _Eggs_ of _Insects_ are found adhering to the
Leaves of _Sallet-Herbs_, and frequently cleave so firmly to them, as
not easily to be wash'd off, and so not being taken notice of, passing
for accidental and harmless Spots only, may yet produce very ill
effects.
_Grillus_, who according to the Doctrine of _Transmigration_ (as
_Plutarch_ tells us) had, in his turn, been a _Beast_; discourses how
much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to _Man_ again,
as knowing then, what Plants were best and most proper for him: Whilst
Men, _Sarcophagists_ (Flesh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to seek.
And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other [Greek: panphaga],
and _herbaceous_ Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their
Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (bessides
the _Smell_ and _Taste_) have, or should have, _Reason_, _Experience_,
and the Aids of _Natural Philosophy_ to be their Guides in this Matter.
We have heard _of Plants_, that (like the _Basilisk_) kill and infect by
[51]looking on them only; and some by the touch. The truth is, there's
need of all the Senses to determine _Analogically_ concerning the
Vertues and Properties, even of the _Leaves_ alone of many _Edule
Plants_: The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of _Sallet_
Vegetables, inclining rather to _Acid_ and _Sowre_ than to any other
quality, especially, Salt, Sweet, or Luscious. There is therefore Skill
and Judgment requir'd, how to suit and mingle our _Sallet_-Ingredients,
so as may best agree with the Constitution of the (vulgarly reputed)
_Humors_ of those who either stand in need of, or affect these
Refreshments, and by so adjusting them, that as nothing should be
suffer'd to domineer, so should none of them lose their genuine Gust,
Savour, or Vertue. To this end,
The Cooler, and moderately refreshing, should be chosen to extinguish
Thirst, attemper the Blood, repress Vapours, _&c._
The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be
qualify'd by the Cold and Moist: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the
_Sub-acid_ and gentler Herbs: The _Mordicant_ and pungent, and such as
repress or discuss Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;)
with such as abate, and take off the keenness, mollify and reconcile the
more harsh and churlish: The mild and insipid, animated with _piquant_
and brisk: The Astringent and Binders, with such as are Laxative and
Deobstruct: The over-sluggish, raw, and unactive, with those that are
Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are _Pectorals_ for the Breast
and Bowels. Those of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more
or less _Specific_; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are describ'd
in our foregoing _Catalogue_: For notwithstanding it seem in general,
that raw _Sallets_ and _Herbs_ have experimentally been found to be the
most soveraign Diet in that _Endemial_ (and indeed with us, _Epidemical_
and almost universal) Contagion the _Scorbute_, to which we of this
Nation, and most other _Ilanders_ are obnoxious; yet, since the
_Nasturtia_ are singly, and alone as it were, the most effectual, and
powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were
enough to give the _Sallet-Dresser_ direction how to choose, mingle, and
proportion his Ingredients; as well as to shew what Remedies there are
contain'd in our Magazine of _Sallet-Plants_ upon all Occasions, rightly
marshal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our [52]sweet _Cowley_)
_If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence_
_Of Temperance and Innocence,_
_And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind,_
_Diseases passage find;_
_They must not think here to assail_
_A Land unarm'd, or without Guard,_
_They must fight for it, and dispute it hard,_
_Before they can prevail;_
_Scarce any Plant is used here,_
_Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear_.
We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a _Sallet_,
every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd
by some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native _Sapor_
and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the _Notes_
in _Music_, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: And
tho' admitting some _Discords_ (to distinguish and illustrate the rest)
striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcile
all Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus the
Comical _Master-Cook_, introduc'd by _Damoxenus_, when asked [Greek: pôs
esin autois onmphonia]; _What Harmony there was in Meats_? The very
same (says he) that a _Diatessaron_, _Diapente_, and _Diapason_ have
one to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great care
requir'd, not to mingle [53]_Sapores minime consentientes_, jarring and
repugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who should
be no better vers'd in _Democritus_. The whole Scene is very diverting,
as _Athenæus_ presents it; and to the same sense _Macrobius_, _Saturn.
lib._ I. _cap._ I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this:
_What choice to choose, for delicacy best;_
_What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix_
_Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring_
_Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change_.
As our [54]_Paradisian Bard_ introduces Eve, dressing of a _Sallet_ for
her _Angelical_ Guest.
Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the _Oxoleon_ (_Oyl_,
_Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the
_Prodigal_, _Niggard_, nor _Insipid_, should (according to the _Italian_
Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since _One_ may be too profuse, the
_Other_ [55]over-saving, and the _Third_ (like himself) give it no
Relish at all: It may be too _sharp_, if it exceed a grateful _Acid_;
too _Insulse_ and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which
it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent
_Sallet_, and how many _Transcendences_ belong to an accomplish'd
_Sallet-Dresser_, so as to emerge an exact _Critic_ indeed, He should
be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various _Species_ of Tastes,
according to the _Scheme_ set us down in the _Tables_ of the Learned
[56]Dr. _Grew_, to which I refer the Curious.