_Latona_, the Mother of _Appolo_ long'd after them: The _Welch_, who eat
them much, are observ'd to be very fruitful: They are also friendly to
the Lungs and Stomach, being sod in Milk; a few therefore of the slender
and green Summities, a little shred, do not amiss in Composition. See
_Onion_.
34. Lettuce, _Lactuca_: Tho' by _Metaphor_ call'd [18]_Mortuorum Cibi_,
(to say nothing of [19]_Adonis_ and his sad _Mistriss_) by reason of
its _Soporiferous_ quality, ever was, and still continues the principal
Foundation of the universal _Tribe_ of _Sallets_; which is to Cool and
Refresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteem
with the Ancients; that divers of the _Valerian_ Family, dignify'd and
enobled their Name with that of _Lactucinii_.
It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yet
less astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in
Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excites
Appetite, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliates
Sleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals,
_Temperance_ and _Chastity_. Galen (whose beloved _Sallet_ it was)
from its _pinguid, subdulcid_ and agreeable Nature, says it breeds the
most laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients
called _Sana_, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great
[20]_Augustus_, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness
to them, 'tis reported, he erected a _Statue_, and built an _Altar_ to
this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor
[21]_Tacitus_ (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other
Dainties) was yet so great a Friend to _Lettuce_, that he was us'd to
say of his Prodigality, _Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione_.
How it was celebrated by _Galen_ we have heard; how he us'd it he tells
himself; namely, beginning with _Lettuce_ in his younger Days, and
concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In
a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and _Sallet_
store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsome
to be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual
_Oxeloeum_ of _Vinegar, Pepper_, and _Oyl_, &c. which last does not
so perfectly agree with the _Alphange_, to which the Juice of _Orange_,
or _Limon_ and _Sugar_ is more desirable: _Aristoxenus_ is reported
to have irrigated his _Lettuce_-Beds with an _Oinomelite_, or mixture
of _Wine_ and _Honey_: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our
Garden-Lovers, and _Brothers of the Sallet_, have been so exceedingly
Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its _Species_;
for to name a few in present use: We have the _Alphange_ of
_Montpelier_, crisp and delicate; the _Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade,
Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd_; the _Genoa_ (lasting all
the Winter) the _Imperial, Lambs_, or _Agnine_, and _Lobbs_ or
_Lop-Lettuces_. The _French Minion_ a dwarf kind: The _Oak-Leaf,
Passion, Roman, Shell_, and _Silesian_, hard and crimp (esteemed of
the best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that
besides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest,
there was within our remembrance, rarely any other _Salleting_ serv'd up
to the best Tables; with unblanch'd _Endive, Succory, Purselan_, (and
indeed little other variety) _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_ being the constant
_Vehicles_ (without _Oyl_) but now _Sugar_ is almost wholly banish'd
from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and
taking from the grateful _Acid_ now in use, tho' otherwise not totally
to be reproved: _Lettuce_ boil'd and _Condited_ is sometimes spoken of.
35. Limon, _Limonia, citrea mala_; exceedingly refreshing, _Cordial_,
&c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet or
bitter. See _Orange_.
36. Mallow, _Malva_; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the
_Ventricle_, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd,
be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken by
the Poets for all _Sallets_ in general. _Pythagoras_ held _Malvæ folium
Sanctisimum_; and we find _Epimenides_ in [22]Plato at his _Mallows_
and _Asphodel_; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table:
The _Romans_ had it also _in deliciis_, [23]_Malvæ salubres corpori_,
approved by [24]_Galen_ and [25]_Dioscorides_; namely the _Garden-Mallow_,
by others the _Wild_; but I think both proper rather for the _Pot_, than
_Sallet_. _Nonius_ supposes the tall _Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks_,
that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very [26]_Laxative_; but
by reason of their clamminess and _Lentor_, banished from our _Sallet_,
tho' by some commended and eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, and some with
_Butter_.
Mercury, _Bonus Henricus_, English Mercury, or _Lapathum Unctuosum_. See
_Blitum_.
37. Melon, _Melo_; to have been reckon'd rather among _Fruits_; and tho'
an usual Ingredient in our _Sallet_; yet for its transcendent delicacy
and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, and
well-fed) not only superior all the _Gourd_-kind, but Paragon with the
noblest Productions of the Garden. _Jos. Scaliger_ and _Casaubon_, think
our _Melon_ unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet
under the name of _Cucumers_: But he who reads how artificially they
were Cultivated, rais'd under Glasses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for
_Tiberius_) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours.
There is also a _Winter-Melon_, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly
Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they
drink _Water_ after eating _Melons_; but in the colder (after all
dispute) _Wine_ is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been
accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten
in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good _Melon_ is certainly as
harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with
_Sallet_, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with
a little _Salt_ and _Pepper_; for a _Melon_ which requires _Sugar_ to
commend it, wants of Perfection. _Note_, That this Fruit was very rarely
cultivated in _England_, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir _Geo.
Gardner_ came out of _Spain_. I my self remembring, when an ordinary
_Melon_ would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripe
Fruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with _Mango_, and are
very delicate.
38. Mint, _Mentha_; the _Angustifolia Spicata_, Spear-Mint; dry and
warm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach,
and powerful against all _Nervous_ Crudities: The gentler Tops of the
_Orange-Mint_, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone
(as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of _Orange_, and a little
_Sugar_.
39. Mushroms, _Fungi_; By the [27]Orator call'd _Terræ_, by _Porphyry
Deorum filii_, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of _Autumnal_
Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the _French,
Champignons_, with all the Species of the _Boletus_, &c. for being, as
some hold, neither _Root, Herb, Flower_, nor _Fruit_, nor to be eaten
crude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our _Sallet_, were I to
order the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as the
very principal and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerable
only (at least in this _Climate_) if being fresh and skilfully chosen,
they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection; generally
reported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor without
cause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funest
Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but whole
Families: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the _Cæsarian
Tables_, with the noble Title [Greek: Brôma theôn], a Dainty fit for
the _Gods_ alone; to whom they sent the Emperor [28]_Claudius_, as they
have many since, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]_Seneca_
deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander _Annæus Serenus_, and
several other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at the
same Repast; would be apt to ask with the [30]_Naturalist_ (speaking of
this suspicious Dainty) _Quæ voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi_? and who
indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats
_Mushroms_, many time _Nil amplius edit_, eats no more perhaps all his
Life after. What other deterring _Epithets_ are given for our Caution,
[Greek: Barê pnigoenta mukêtôn], _heavy_ and _choaking_. (_Athenæus_
reporting of the Poet _Euripides's_, finding a Woman and her three
Children strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficient
warning.
Among these comes in the _Fungus Reticularis_, to be found about
_London_, as at _Fulham_ and other places; whilst at no small charge we
send for them into _France_; as we also do for _Trufles_, _Pig-nuts_,
and other subterraneous _Tubera_, which in _Italy_ they fry in Oyl,
and eat with _Pepper_: They are commonly discovered by a _Nasute Swine_
purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell,
and not seldom found in _England_, particularly in a Park of my Lord
_Cotton's_ at _Rushton_ or _Rusbery_ in _Northampton_-shire, and
doubtless in other [31]places too were they sought after. How these
rank and provocative Excrescences are to be [32]treated (of themselves
insipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or
_Conditure_) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down.
But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incourage
none to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at all
concern our safer and innocent _Sallet_ Furniture) I forbear it; and
referr those who long after this beloved _Ragout_, and other
_Voluptuaria Venena_ (as _Seneca_ calls them) to what our Learned Dr.
_Lyster_[33] says of the many Venomous _Insects_ harbouring and
corrupting in a new found-out Species of _Mushroms_ had lately in
deliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and less
pernicious, (of which see the _Appendix_) are such as rise in rich,
airy, and dry [34]Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or _Pedicule_ of
about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (_Target_-like) round
and firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiated
in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or
Black, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce,
they are likewise rais'd [35]Artificially; as at _Naples_ in their
Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed
_Stone_, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]_Peiresky_ tells
us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old _Fungus_'s, reduc'd and
compacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkle
it with warm Water, in which _Mushroms_ have been steeped. And in
_France_, by making an hot Bed of _Asses_-Dung, and when the heat is
in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings
and Offals of refuse _Fungus_'s; and such a Bed will last two or three
Years, and sometimes our common _Melon_-Beds afford them, besides other
Experiments.
40. Mustard, _Sinapi_; exceeding hot and _mordicant_, not only in the
Seed but Leaf also; especially in _Seedling_ young Plants, like those of
_Radishes_ (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to
quicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expelling
heaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable
_Cephalick_. Besides it is an approv'd _Antiscorbutick_; aids
Concoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis the
most noble _Embamma_, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw
_Salleting_, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In
_Italy_ in making _Mustard_, they mingle _Limon_ and _Orange-Peel_, with
the Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter.
_Nasturtium Indicum_. See _Cresses_.
41. Nettles, _Urtica_; Hot, dry, _Diuretic, Solvent_; purifies the
Blood: The Buds, and very tender _Cimae_, a little bruised, are by some
eaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in _Spring-Pottage_, with other
Herbs.
42. Onion, _Cepa_, _Porrum_; the best are such as are brought us out of
_Spain_, whence they of St. _Omers_ had them, and some that have weigh'd
eight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd.
Being eaten crude and alone with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Pepper_, we own
them in _Sallet_, not so hot as _Garlick_, nor at all so rank: Boil'd,
they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut
Phlegm, and profit the _Asthmatical_: But eaten in excess, are said to
offend the Head and Eyes, unless _Edulcorated_ with a gentle maceration.
In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable
only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some
commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in
Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold
_Sallet_ we supply them with the _Porrum Sectile_, Tops of _Leeks_, and
_Eschalots_ (_Ascalonia_) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of
_Garlick_. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a _Seed_ or
two of _Raccombo_, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing
the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In _Italy_ they
frequently make a _Sallet_ of _Scalions_, _Cives_, and _Chibbols_ only
season'd with _Oyl_ and _Pepper_; and an honest laborious Country-man,
with good _Bread_, _Salt_, and a little _Parsley_, will make a contented
Meal with a roasted _Onion_. How this noble _Bulb_ was deified in
[37]_Egypt_ we are told, and that whilst they were building the
_Pyramids_, there was spent in this Root [38]_Ninety Tun_ of _Gold_
among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that as
whole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the _Israelites_ were
ready to return to _Slavery_ and _Brick-making_ for the love of them.
Indeed _Hecamedes_ we find presents them to _Patroclus_, in _Homer_, as
a _Regalo_; But certainly we are either mistaken in the _Species_ (which
some will have to be _Melons_) or use _Poetick_ Licence, when we so
highly magnify them.
43. Orach, _Atriplex_: Is cooling, allays the _Pituit_ Humor: Being set
over the Fire, neither _this_, nor _Lettuce_, needs any other Water than
their own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tender
Leaves are mingl'd with other cold _Salleting_; but 'tis better in
Pottage. See _Blitum_.
44. Orange, _Arantiæ_ (_Malum aureum_) Moderately dry, cooling,
and incisive; sharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreshes and resists
Putrefaction: We speak of the _Sub acid_; the sweet and bitter _Orange_
being of no use in our _Sallet_. The _Limon_ is somewhat more acute,
cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best
_succedaneum_ to _Vinegar_. The very Spoils and Rinds of _Orange_ and
_Limon_ being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the
Acrimony. But they are the tender _Seedlings_ from the _Hot-Bed_, which
impart an _Aromatic_ exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. _Vide_ Limon.
45. Parsnep, _Pastinaca_, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of it
self a Winter-_Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, &c. and having
something of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the
_Turnep_.
46. Pease, _Pisum_: the Pod of the _Sugar-Pease_, when first beginning
to appear, with the _Husk_ and _Tendrels_, affording a pretty _Acid_,
enter into the Composition, as do those of _Hops_ and the _Vine_.
47. Peper, _Piper_, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd
Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic
Constitutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore for
being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and such
as abound in moisture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our
_Sallets_; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it)
to an almost impalpable Dust, which is very pernicious and frequently
adheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, instead of
promoting Concoction, it often causes a _Cardialgium_, and fires the
Blood: It should therefore be grosly contus'd only.
_Indian Capsicum_, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the
_Africans_ eaten with _Salt_ and _Vinegar_ by it self, as an usual
Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so much
more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and
Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeable
in our _Sallet_.
Take the _Pods_, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become
sufficiently hard, cut them into small pieces, and stamp 'em in a Mortar
to dust: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of _Wheat-flour_, fermented
with a little _Levain_: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut
long-wise, in shape of _Naples-Biscuit_. These Re-bake a second time,
till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it
through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seasoning, instead of vulgar
_Peper_. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be sure to make the Mortar very
clean, after having beaten _Indian Capsicum_, before you stamp any thing
in it else. The green Husks, or first peeping Buds of the _Walnut-Tree_,
dry'd to Powder, serve for _Peper_ in some places, and so do
_Myrtle-berries_.
48. Persley, _Petroselinum_, or _Apium hortense_; being hot and dry,
opens Obstructions, is very _Diuretic_, yet nourishing, _edulcorated_
in shifted warm Water (the Roots especially) but of less Vertue than
_Alexanders_; nor so convenient in our crude _Sallet_, as when decocted
on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be
admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at
all, as sacred to _Oblivium_ and the _Defunct_. In the mean time, there
being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (_Farces_) and other _Sauces_,
we consign it to the _Olitories_. _Note_, that Persley is not so hurtful
to the Eyes as is reported. See _Sellery_.
49. Pimpernel, _Pimpinella_; eaten by the _French_ and _Italians_, is
our common _Burnet_; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality, and so
generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all _Sallets_) 'tis
pass'd into a Proverb:
_L'Insalata non è buon, ne bella_
_Ove non è la Pimpinella_.
But a fresh sprig in _Wine_, recommends it to us as its most genuine
Element.
50. Purslain, _Portulaca_; especially the _Golden_ whilst tender, next
the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moist and
cooling, quickens Appetite, asswages Thirst, and is very profitable
for hot and _Bilious_ Tempers, as well as _Sanguine_, and generally
entertain'd in all our _Sallets_, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis
likewise familiarly eaten alone with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_; but with
moderation, as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach,
which being _Pickl'd_ 'tis not so apt to do. Some eat it cold, after
it has been boil'd, which Dr. _Muffet_ would have in _Wine_, for
Nourishment.
The Shrub _Halimus_, is a sort of _Sea-Purslain_: The newly peeping
Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleasant _Acidule_, even during
winter, if it prove not too severe.
_Purslain_ is accus'd for being hurtful to the _Teeth_, if too much
eaten.
51. Radish, _Raphanus_. Albeit rather Medicinal, than so commendably
accompanying our _Sallets_ (wherein they often slice the larger Roots)
are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raised on the
[39]Monthly _Hot-Bed_, almost the whole Year round, affording a very
grateful mordacity, and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients:
The bigger Roots (so much desir'd) should be such as being transparent,
eat short and quick, without stringiness, and not too biting. These are
eaten alone with _Salt_ only, as carrying their _Peper_ in them; and
were indeed by _Dioscorides_ and _Pliny_ celebrated above all Roots
whatsoever; insomuch as in the _Delphic_ Temple, there was _Raphanus ex
auro dicatus_, a Radish of solid Gold; and 'tis said of _Moschius_, that
he wrote a whole Volume in their praise. Notwithstanding all which, I am
sure, the great [40]_Hippocrates_ utterly condemns them, as _Vitiosoe,
innatantes ac aegre concoctiles_. And the _Naturalist_ calls it _Cibus
Illiberalis_, fitter for _Rustics_ than _Gentlemens_ Tables. And indeed
(besides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the
Prince of _Physicians_ writes, It is hard of Digestion, _Inimicous_ to
the Stomach, causing nauseous Eructations, and sometimes Vomiting, tho'
otherwise _Diuretic_, and thought to repel the Vapours of _Wine_, when
the _Wits_ were at their genial _Club_. _Dioscorides_ and [41]_Galen_
differ about their Eating; One prescribes it before Meals, the latter
for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them
more _Nourishing_.
There is a _Raphanus rusticanus_, the _Spanish_ black _Horse Radish_,
of a hotter quality, and not so friendly to the Head; but a notable
_Antiscorbutic_, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account
an excellent Ingredient in the Composition of _Mustard_; as are also
the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have
done with this Root, for an excellent and universal _Condiment_. Take
_Horse-Radish_, whilst newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwise laid to
steep in Water a competent time; then _grate_ it on a _Grater_ which has
no bottom, that so it may pass thro', like a Mucilage, into a Dish of
Earthen Ware: This temper'd with _Vinegar_, in which a little _Sugar_
has been dissolv'd, you have a _Sauce_ supplying _Mustard_ to the
_Sallet_, and serving likewise for any Dish besides.
52. Rampion, _Rapunculus_, or the _Esculent Campanula_: The tender Roots
eaten in the Spring, like those of _Radishes_, but much more Nourishing.
53. Rocket, _Eruca Spanish_; hot and dry, to be qualified with
_Lettuce_, _Purcelain_, and the rest, &c. See _Tarragon_.
Roccombo. See _Onions_.
54. Rosemary, _Rosmarinus_; Soverainly _Cephalic_, and for the _Memory_,
_Sight_, and _Nerves_, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with
our _Sallet_ furniture, yet the _Flowers_, a little bitter, are always
welcome in _Vinegar_; but above all, a fresh Sprig or two in a Glass of
_Wine_. See _Flowers_.
55. Sage, _Salvia_; hot and dry. The tops of the _Red_, well pick'd
and wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almost
imperceptible _Insects_) with the _Flowers_, retain all the noble
Properties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the _Head_,
_Memory_, _Eyes_, and all _Paralytical_ Affections. In short, 'tis
a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that the
assiduous use of it is said to render Men _Immortal_: We cannot
therefore but allow the tender _Summities_ of the young Leaves; but
principally the _Flowers_ in our cold _Sallet_; yet so as not to
domineer.
Salsifax, _Scorzonera_. See _Vipergrass_.
56. Sampier, _Crithmum_: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about
_Dover_, &c.) not only _Pickl'd_, but crude and cold, when young and
tender (and such as we may Cultivate, and have in our _Kitchin-Gardens_,
almost the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its _Aromatic_, and other
excellent Vertues and Effects against the _Spleen_, Cleansing the
Passages, sharpning Appetite, &c. so far preferrable to most of our
hotter Herbs, and _Sallet_-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd,
it has not been long since propagated in the _Potagere_, as it is in
_France_; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have
prosper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own
Coasts: It does not indeed _Pickle_ so well, as being of a more tender
Stalk and Leaf: But in all other respects for composing _Sallets_,
it has nothing like it.