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[Illustration: Joannes Evelyn Arm^r]
_ACETARIA_
A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS
* * * * *
By _JOHN EVELYN, Esq._
Author of the _Kalendarium_
* * * * *
_BROOKLYN_,
Published by the _Women's Auxiliary_,
BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN
1937
_Printed in the United States of America_
_Publisher's Note_
This edition of Acetaria is a faithful reprint of the First Edition of
1699, with the correction of a few obvious typographical errors, and
those noted in the Errata of the original edition. Whereas no attempt
has been made to reproduce the typography of the original, the spirit
has been retained, and the vagaries of spelling and punctuation have
been carefully followed; also the old-style S [s] has been retained.
Much of the flavour of Acetaria is lost if it is scanned too hurriedly;
and one should remember also that Latin and Greek were the gauge of a
man of letters, and if the titles and quotations seem a bit ponderous,
they are as amusing a conceit as the French and German complacencies of
a more recent generation.
_Foreword to Acetaria_
John Evelyn, famous for his "Diary," was a friend and contemporary of
Samuel Pepys. Both were conscientious public servants who had held minor
offices in the government. But, while Pepys' diary is sparkling and
redolent of the free manners of the Restoration, Evelyn's is the record
of a sober, scholarly man. His mind turned to gardens, to sculpture and
architecture, rather than to the gaieties of contemporary social life.
Pepys was an urban figure and Evelyn was "county." He represents the
combination of public servant and country gentleman which has been the
supreme achievement of English culture.
Horace Walpole said of him in his Catalogue of Engravers, "I must
observe that his life, which was extended to eighty-six years, was a
course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction and benevolence."
Courtiers, artists, and scientists were his friends. Grinling Gibbons
was brought to the King's notice by Evelyn, and Henry Howard, Duke of
Norfolk, was persuaded by him to present the Arundel Marbles to the
University of Oxford. In London he engaged in divers charitable and
civic affairs and was commissioner for improving the streets and
buildings in London. He had charge of the sick and wounded of the Dutch
War and also, with the fineness of character typical of his kind, he
remained at his post through the Great Plague. Evelyn was also active in
organizing the Royal Society and became its first secretary.
In the country he spent his time studying, writing and in developing
his own and his brother's estates. He translated several French books,
one of them by Nicolas de Bonnefons was entitled "The French Gardener;
instructions how to cultivate all sorts of fruit-trees." Evelyn
undoubtedly knew another book of de Bonnefons called "_Les Delices de
la Campagne_." Delights of the country, according to de Bonnefons,
consisted largely in delights of the palate, and perhaps it was this
book which suggested to Evelyn to write a cookery-garden book such
as Acetaria. He also translated Jean de la Quintinie's "The Compleat
Gardener." His "Sylva, or a discourse of Forest Trees" was written as
a protest against the destruction of trees in England being carried
on by the glass factories and iron furnaces, and the book succeeded
in inducing landowners to plant millions of trees.
The list of Evelyn's writings shows a remarkable diversity in subject
matter. There was a book on numismatics and translations from the Greek,
political and historical pamphlets, and a book called "Fumifugium or the
inconvenience of the Aer and Smoke of London dissipated," in which he
suggests that sweet-smelling trees should be planted to purify the air
of London. He also wrote a book called "Sculpture, or the History of
Chalcography and Engraving in Copper."
Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyn
grew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the first
advocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparing
foods without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby,
he collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophic
comments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in the
little book Acetaria. This was published in 1699 along with the ninth
edition of the "Kalendarium Hortense," a gardener's almanac.
The material for _Acetaria_ was gathered as early as 1679 with the
idea of making it one chapter of an encyclopedic work on horticulture.
The _Plan of a Royal Garden_, was Evelyn's outline for that
ambitious work.
The recipes are unusual and delicious and some of them are practical
for today, especially for the owner of a garden where pot herbs are
cultivated. Evelyn uses the pot herbs for flavoring soups, egg dishes,
"salletts" and puddings. The eggs with sweet herbs prepared in ramikins
and the pudding flavored with the petals of calendulas are particularly
good.
The book reveals his zest for living and the culture of his mind. It
also shows the thought and life of a country gentleman during the reign
of Charles the Second. Evidently, in Evelyn's home, the spirit of
scientific investigation prevailed and there was a delight in new ideas.
Evelyn supervised the garden and knew how to instruct the cook to
prepare new dishes.
Although Acetaria is a book of directions for gardening and cooking, it
is not the least didactic but is written in a discoursive style and with
a leisureliness and in a rhythm suited to the slow pace of a horse
trotting through the winding lanes of the English countryside. As we
read, we can almost see the butler bringing a fragrant pudding to the
family assembled around the dining table in the wood-panelled room. Or
again we can almost smell the thyme, mint, and savory growing in tidy
rows in the well-tilled and neatly ordered garden of John Evelyn.
_Helen M. Fox_
* * * * *
[Illustration: _Facsimile of Title Page of First Edition_]
* * * * *
_To the Right Honourable_
_JOHN_
Lord Somers
_of Evesham_
Lord _High-Chancellor_ of England,
and _President_ of the _Royal-Society_.
* * * * *
_My Lord_,
The _Idea_ and _Plan_ of the _Royal-Society_ having been first conceiv'd
and delineated by a _Great_ and _Learned Chancellor_, which High Office
your Lordship deservedly bears; not as an Acquisition of Fortune, but
your Intellectual Endowments; Conspicuous (among other Excellencies) by
the Inclination Your Lordship discovers to promote _Natural Knowledge_:
As it justifies the Discernment of that _Assembly_, to pitch upon Your
Lordship for their _President_, so does it no less discover the Candor,
yea, I presume to say, the Sublimity of your Mind, in so generously
honoring them with your _Acceptance_ of the _Choice_ they have made.
A [1]_Chancellor_, and a very Learned Lord, was the _First_ who honoured
the _Chair_; and a no less Honorable and Learned _Chancellor_, resigns
it to Your Lordship: So as after all the Difficulties and Hardships
the _Society_ has hitherto gone through; it has thro' the Favour and
Protection of its _Presidents_, not only preserv'd its Reputation from
the Malevolence of Enemies and Detracters, but gone on _Culminating_,
and now _Triumphantly_ in Your Lordship: Under whose propitious
Influence, I am perswaded, it may promise it self _That_, which indeed
has hitherto been wanting, to justifie the Glorious _Title_ it bears of
a ROYAL SOCIETY. The _Emancipating_ it from some Remaining and
Discouraging Circumstances, which it as yet labours under; among which,
that of a _Precarious_ and unsteady Abode, is not the least.
This _Honor_ was reserv'd for Your Lordship; and an _Honor_, permit
me to call it, not at all unworthy the Owning of the Greatest Person
living: Namely, the Establishing and Promoting _Real Knowledge_; and
(next to what is _Divine_) truly so called; as far, at least, as Humane
Nature extends towards the Knowledge of Nature, by enlarging her Empire
beyond the Land of _Spectres, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, Occult
Qualities_, and other _Inadequate Notions_; which, by their Obstreperous
and Noisy Disputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring Men from
adventuring on further Discoveries, confin'd them in a lazy
Acquiescence, and to be fed with _Fantasms_ and fruitless Speculations,
which signifie nothing to the _specifick_ Nature of Things, solid and
useful knowledge; by the _Investigation of Causes, Principles, Energies,
Powers_, and _Effects_ of _Bodies_, and _Things Visible_; and to improve
them for the Good and Benefit of Mankind.
_My Lord_, That which the _Royal Society_ needs to accomplish an entire
Freedom, and (by rendring their Circumstances more easie) capable to
subsist with Honor, and to reach indeed the Glorious Ends of its
_Institution_, is an Establishment in a more Settl'd, _Appropriate_,
and _Commodious Place_; having hitherto (like the _Tabernacle_ in the
_Wilderness_) been only _Ambulatory_ for almost _Forty Years_: But
_Solomon_ built the First _Temple_; and what forbids us to hope, that as
Great a _Prince_ may build _Solomon's House_, as that Great _Chancellor_
(one of Your Lordship's Learned _Predecessors_) had design'd the _Plan_;
there being nothing in that _August_ and _Noble Model_ impossible, or
beyond the _Power_ of _Nature_ and Learned Industry.
Thus, whilst King _Solomon's_ Temple was _Consecrated_ to the _God_
of _Nature_, and his true Worship; _This_ may be _Dedicated_, and set
apart for the _Works_ of _Nature_; deliver'd from those Illusions and
Impostors, that are still endeavouring to cloud and depress the True,
and _Substantial Philosophy_: A _shallow_ and _Superficial Insight_,
wherein (as that Incomparable Person rightly observes) having made so
many _Atheists_: whilst a _profound_ and thorow _Penetration_ into her
_Recesses_ (which is the _Business_ of the _Royal Society_) would lead
Men to the _Knowledge_, and _Admiration_ of the _Glorious Author_.
And now, _My Lord_, I expect some will wonder what my Meaning is, to
usher in a _Trifle_, with so much Magnificence, and end at last in a
fine _Receipt_ for the _Dressing_ of a _Sallet_ with an Handful of
_Pot-Herbs_! But yet, _My Lord_, this _Subject_, as low and despicable
as it appears, challenges a Part of _Natural History_, and the Greatest
Princes have thought it no Disgrace, not only to make it their
_Diversion_, but their _Care_, and to promote and encourage it in the
midst of their weightiest Affairs: He who wrote of the _Cedar_ of
_Libanus_, wrote also of the _Hysop which grows upon the Wall_.
To verifie this, how much might I say of _Gardens_ and _Rural
Employments_, preferrable to the Pomp and Grandeur of other Secular
Business, and that in the Estimate of as Great Men as any Age has
produc'd! And it is of such _Great Souls_ we have it recorded; That
after they had perform'd the Noblest Exploits for the Publick, they
sometimes chang'd their _Scepters_ for the _Spade_, and their _Purple_
for the Gardiner's _Apron_. And of these, some, My _Lord_, were
_Emperors, Kings, Consuls, Dictators_, and Wise _Statesmen_; who amidst
the most important Affairs, both in Peace and War, have quitted all
their Pomp and Dignity in Exchange of this Learned Pleasure: Nor that
of the most _refin'd_ Part of _Agriculture_ (the _Philosophy_ of the
_Garden_ and _Parterre_ only) but of _Herbs_, and wholesom _Sallets_,
and other plain and useful Parts of _Geoponicks_, and Wrote _Books_ of
_Tillage_ and _Husbandry_; and took the _Plough-Tackle_ for their
_Banner_, and their _Names_ from the _Grain_ and _Pulse_ they sow'd,
as the Marks and Characters of the highest Honor.
But I proceed no farther on a _Topic_ so well known to Your Lordship:
Nor urge I Examples of such Illustrious Persons laying aside their
Grandeur, and even of deserting their Stations; (which would infinitely
prejudice the Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, and at the Helm)
But to shew how consisent the Diversions of the _Garden_ and _Villa_
were, with the highest and busiest Employment of the _Commonwealth_, and
never thought a Reproch, or the least Diminution to the Gravity and
Veneration due to their Persons, and the Noble Rank they held.
Will Your Lordship give me Leave to repeat what is said of the Younger
_Pliny_, (Nephew to the _Naturalist_) and whom I think we may parallel
with the Greatest of his time (and perhaps of any since) under the
Worthiest _Emperor_ the _Roman_ world ever had? A Person of vast
Abilities, Rich, and High in his Master's Favour; that so Husbanded his
time, as in the Midst of the weightiest Affairs, to have Answer'd, and
by his [2]_Example_, made good what I have said on this Occasion. The
Ancient and best Magistrates of _Rome_ allow'd but the _Ninth_ Day for
the _City_ and _Publick Business_; the rest for the _Country_ and the
_Sallet Garden_: There were then fewer _Causes_ indeed at the _Bar_;
but never greater _Justice_, nor _better Judges_ and _Advocates_. And
'tis hence observed, that we hardly find a Great and Wise Man among
the Ancients, _qui nullos habuit hortos_, excepting only _Pomponius
Atticus_; wilst his Dear _Cicero_ professes, that he never laid out his
Money more readily, than in the purchasing of _Gardens_, and those sweet
Retirements, for which he so often left the _Rostra_ (and Court of the
Greatest and most flourishing State of the World) to visit, prune, and
water them with his own Hands.
But, _My Lord_, I forget with whom I am talking thus; and a _Gardiner_
ought not to be so bold. The present I humbly make your Lordship, is
indeed but a _Sallet_ of _Crude Herbs_: But there is among them that
which was a _Prize_ at the _Isthmian Games_; and Your Lordship knows
who it was both accepted, and rewarded as despicable an Oblation of
this kind. The Favor I humbly beg, is Your Lordship's Pardon for this
Presumption. The Subject is _mean_, and requires it, and my _Reputation_
in danger; should Your Lordship hence suspect that one could never write
so much of _dressing Sallets_, who minded anything serious, besides the
gratifying a Sensual Appetite with a Voluptuary _Apician_ Art.
Truly, _My Lord_, I am so far from designing to promote those _Supplicia
Luxuriæ_, (as _Seneca_ calls them) by what I have here written; that
were it in my Power, I would recall the World, if not altogether to
their Pristine _Diet_, yet to a much more _wholsome_ and _temperate_
than is now in Fashion: And what if they find me like to some who are
eager after _Hunting_ and other Field-Sports, which are _Laborious_
Exercises? and _Fishing_, which is indeed a _Lazy_ one? who, after all
their Pains and Fatigue, never eat what they take and catch in either:
For some such I have known: And tho' I cannot affirm so of my self,
(when a well drest and excellent _Sallet_ is before me) I am yet a very
moderate Eater of them. So as to this _Book-Luxury_, I can affirm, and
that truly what the _Poet_ says of himself (on a less innocent Occasion)
_Lasciva pagina, vita proba._ God forbid, that after all I have advanc'd
in Praise of _Sallets_, I should be thought to plead for the Vice I
censure, and chuse that of _Epicurus_ for my _Lemma_; _In hac arte
consenui_; or to have spent my time in nothing else. The _Plan_ annext
to these Papers, and the _Apparatus_ made to superstruct upon it, would
acquit me of having bent all my Contemplations on _Sallets_ only. What
I humbly offer Your Lordship, is (as I said) Part of _Natural History_,
the Product of _Horticulture_, and the _Field_, dignified by the most
illustrious, and sometimes tilled _Laureato Vomere_; which, as it
concerns a Part of _Philosophy_, I may (without Vanity) be allow'd to
have taken some Pains in Cultivating, as an inferior Member of the
_Royal Society_.
But, _My Lord_, wilst You read on (if at least You vouchsafe me that
Honor to read at all) I am conscious I rob the Publick of its most
Precious Moments.
I therefore Humbly again Implore Your Lordship's Pardon: Nor indeed
needed I to have said half this, to kindle in Your Breast, that which is
already shining there (Your Lordship's Esteem of the _Royal Society_)
after what You were pleas'd to Express in such an Obliging manner, when
it was lately to wait upon Your Lordship; among whom I had the Honor
to be a Witness of Your Generous, and Favourable Acceptance of their
Addresses, who am,
_My Lord,
Your Lordship's Most Humble
and Most Obedient Servant,
JOHN EVELYN_.
* * * * *
THE PREFACE
The _Favourable Entertainment which the_ Kalendar _has found,
encouraging the_ Bookseller _to adventure upon_ a Ninth Impression, I
_could not refuse his Request of my Revising, and Giving it the best
Improvement I was capable_, to an Inexhaustible Subject, _as it regards
a Part of_ Horticulture; _and offer some little Aid to such as love a
Diversion so Innocent and Laudable. There are those of late, who have
arrogated, and given the Glorious Title_ of Compleat _and_ Accomplish'd
Gardiners, _to what they have Publish'd; as if there were nothing
wanting, nothing more remaining, or farther to be expected from the
Field; and that_ Nature _had been quite emptied of all her fertile
Store: Whilst those who thus magnifie their Discoveries, have after
all, penetrated but a very little Way into this Vast, Ample, and as
yet, Unknown Territory; Who see not, that it would still require the
Revolution of many Ages; deep, and long_ Experience, _for any Man to
Emerge that Perfect, and Accomplish'd Artist_ Gardiner _they boast
themselves to be: Nor do I think, Men will ever reach the End, and far
extended Limits of the_ Vegetable Kingdom, _so incomprehensible is the
Variety it every Day produces, of the most Useful, and Admirable of all
the Aspectable Works of God; since almost all we_ see, _and_ touch,
_and_ taste, _and_ smell, eat _and_ drink, are clad _with, and_ defended
(_from the Greatest_ Prince _to the Meanest_ Peasant) _is furnished from
that Great and Universal Plantation_, Epitomiz'd _in our_ Gardens,
_highly worth the Contemplation of the most Profound Divine, and
Deepest_ Philosopher.
_I should be asham'd to acknowledge how little I have advanced, could
I find that ever any Mortal Man from_ Adam, Noah, Solomon, Aristotle,
Theophrastus, Dioscorides, _and the rest of Nature's Interpreters, had
ever arriv'd to the perfect Knowledge of any one_ Plant, _or_ Vulgar
Weed _whatsoever: But this perhaps may yet possibly be reserv'd for
another State of Things, and a_ [3]_longer Day; that is_, When Time
shall be no more, but Knowledge shall be encreas'd.
_We have heard of one who studied and contemplated the Nature of_
Bees _only, for_ Sixty Years: _After which, you will not wonder,
that a Person of my Acquaintance, should have spent almost_ Forty,
_in Gathering and Amassing Materials for an_ Hortulan _Design, to
so enormous an Heap, as to fill some_ Thousand Pages; _and yet be
comprehended within two, or three Acres of Ground; nay, within the
Square of less than_ One (_skilfully Planted and Cultivated) sufficient
to furnish, and entertain his Time and Thoughts all his Life long, with
a most Innocent, Agreeable, and Useful Employment. But you may justly
wonder, and Condemn the Vanity of it too, with that Reproach_, This Man
began to build, but was not able to finish! _This has been the Fate of
that Undertaking; and I dare promise, will be of whosoever imagines
(without the Circumstances of extraordinary Assistance, and no ordinary
Expence) to pursue the_ Plan, _erect, and finish the_ Fabrick _as it
ought to be_.
_But this is that which_ Abortives _the Perfection of the most Glorious
and Useful Undertakings; the Unsatiable Coveting to Exhaust all that
should, or can be said upon every Head: If such a one have any thing
else to mind, or do in the World, let me tell him, he thinks of Building
too late; and rarely find we any, who care to superstruct upon the
Foundation of another, and whose_ Ideas _are alike. There ought
therefore to be as many_ Hands, _and_ Subsidiaries _to such a Design_
(_and those_ Matters _too_) _as there are distinct Parts of the Whole
(according to the subsequent Table) that those who have the Means and
Courage, may_ (_tho' they do not undertake the_ Whole) _finish a_ Part
_at least, and in time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat,
and Consummate Work indeed_.
_Of_ One _or_ Two _of these_, I _attempted only a_ Specimen _in my_
SILVA _and the_ KALENDAR; Imperfect, _I say, because they are both
capable of Great Improvements: It is not therefore to be expected_
(_Let me use the Words of an Old, and Experienced_ Gardiner) Cuncta
me dicturum, quae vastitas ejus scientiæ contineret, sed plurima; nam
illud in unius hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit, neque est ulla
Disciplina aut Ars, quæ singulari consummata sit ingenio.
_May it then suffice_ aliquam partem tradidisse, _and that I have done
my Endeavour_.
... Jurtilis olim
Ne Videar vixisse.
_Much more might I add upon this Charming, and Fruitful Subject (I mean,
concerning_ Gardening:) _But this is not a Place to Expatiate, deterr'd,
as I have long since been, from so bold an Enterprize, as the Fabrick
I mentioned. I content my self then with an_ Humble Cottage, _and a
Simple_ Potagere, _Appendant to the_ Calendar; _which, Treating only
(and that briefly) of the_ Culture _of_ Moderate Gardens; _Nothing
seems to me, shou'd be more_ Welcome _and_ Agreeable, _than whilst the
Product of them is come into more_ Request _and_ Use _amongst us, than
heretofore (beside what we call, and distinguish by the Name of_ Fruit)
_I did annex some particular Directions concerning_ S A L L E T S.
* * * * *
_THE_
PLAN
_OF A_
_ROYAL GARDEN:_
Describing, and Shewing the _Amplitude_, and _Extent_ of that Part of
_Georgicks_, which belongs to _Horticulture_.
* * * * *
In Three Books
* * * * *
_BOOK I_.
_Chap. I_. Of _Principles and Elements_ in general.
_Chap. II_. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements; _Fire, Air, Water;
Earth_.
_Chap. III_. Of the Celestial _Influences_, and particularly of the
_Sun, Moon_, and of the _Climates_.
_Chap. IV_. Of the Four _Annual Seasons_.
_Chap. V_. Of the Natural _Mould_ and _Soil_ of a Garden.
_Chap. VI_. Of _Composts_, and _Stercoration, Repastination, Dressing_
and _Stirring_ the _Earth_ and _Mould_ of a Garden.
_BOOK II_.
_Chap. I_. A Garden _Derived_ and _Defin'd;_ its _Dignity, Distinction_,
and _Sorts_.
_Chap. II_. Of a _Gardiner_, how to be _qualify 'd, regarded_ and
_rewarded_; his _Habitation, Cloathing, Diet_, Under-_Workmen_ and
_Assistants_.
_Chap. III_. Of the _Instruments_ belonging to a Gardiner; their various
_Uses_, and _Machanical_ Powers.
_Chap. IV_. Of the _Terms_ us'd, and affected by Gardiners.
_Chap. V_. Of _Enclosing, Fencing, Plotting_, and disposing of the
Ground; and of _Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens, &c._
_Chap. VI_. Of a _Seminary, Nurseries_; and of Propagating _Trees,
Plants_ and _Flowers, Planting_ and _Transplanting, &c._
_Chap. VII_. Of _Knots, Parterres, Compartiments, Borders, Banks_ and
_Embossments_.
_Chap. VIII_. Of _Groves, Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles,
Close-Walks, Galleries, Pavilions, Portico's, Lanterns_, and other
_Relievo's_; of _Topiary_ and _Hortulan Architecture_.
_Chap. IX_. Of _Fountains, Jetto's, Cascades, Rivulets, Piscinas,
Canals, Baths_, and other Natural, and Artificial _Water-works_.
_Chap. X_. Of _Rocks, Grotts, Cryptæ, Mounts, Precipices, Ventiducts,
Conservatories_, of _Ice_ and _Snow_, and other Hortulan Refreshments.
_Chap. XI_. Of _Statues, Busts, Obelisks, Columns, Inscriptions, Dials,
Vasa's, Perspectives, Paintings_, and other Ornaments.
_Chap. XII_. Of _Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres_, Artificial _Echo's,
Automata_ and _Hydraulic Musck_.
_Chap. XIII_. Of _Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Insects, &c._
_Chap. XIV_. Of _Verdures, Perennial Greens_, and _Perpetual Springs_.
_Chap. XV_. Of _Orangeries, Oporotheca's, Hybernacula, Stoves_, and
Conservatories of Tender _Plants_ and _Fruits_, and how to order them.
_Chap. XVI_. Of the _Coronary_ Garden: _Flowers_ and _Rare Plants_, how
they are to be _Raised, Governed_ and _Improved_; and how the Gardiner
_is_ to keep his _Register_.
_Chap. XVII_. Of the _Philosophical Medical_ Garden.
_Chap. XVIII_. Of _Stupendous_ and _Wonderful_ _Plants_.
_Chap. XIX_. Of the _Hort-Yard_ and _Potagere_; and what _Fruit-Trees,
Olitory_ and _Esculent_ _Plants_, may be admitted into a Garden of
Pleasure.
_Chap. XX_. Of _Sallets_.
_Chap. XXI_. Of a _Vineyard_, and Directions concerning the making of
_Wine_ and other _Vinous_ Liquors, and of _Teas_.
_Chap. XXII_. Of _Watering, Pruning, Plashing, Pallisading, Nailing,
Clipping, Mowing, Rowlling, Weeding, Cleansing, &c._
_Chap. XXIII_. Of the _Enemies_ and _Infirmities_ to which Gardens are
obnoxious, together with _Remedies_.
_Chap. XXIV_. Of the Gardiner's _Almanack_ or _Kalendarium Hortense_,
directing what he is to do Monthly, and what _Fruits_ and _Flowers_ are
in prime.
_BOOK III_.
_Chap. I_. Of _Conserving, Properating, Retarding, Multiplying,
Transmuting_, and Altering the
_Species, Forms_, and (reputed) _Substantial Qualities_ of _Plants,
Fruits_ and _Flowers_.
_Chap. II_. Of the Hortulan _Elaboratory_; and of _distilling_ and
_extracting_ of _Waters, Spirits, Essences, Salts, Colours_,
Resuscitation of _Plants_, with other rare Experiments, and an Account
of their _Virtues_.
_Chap. III_. Of Composing the _Hortus Hyemalis_, and making Books, of
_Natural, Arid Plants_ and _Flowers_, with several Ways of Preserving
them in their _Beauty_.
_Chap. IV_. Of _Painting_ of Flowers, Flowers _enamell'd, Silk,
Callico's, Paper, Wax, Guns, Pasts, Horns, Glass, Shells, Feathers,
Moss, Pietra Comessa, Inlayings, Embroyderies, Carvings_, and other
Artificial Representations of them.
_Chap. V_. Of _Crowns, Chaplets, Garlands, Festoons, Encarpa,
Flower-Pots, Nosegays, Poeses, Deckings_, and other Flowery _Pomps_.
_Chap. VI_. Of _Hortulan Laws_ and _Privileges_.
_Chap. VII_. Of the _Hortulan Study_, and of a _Library, Authors_ and
_Books_ assistant to it.
_Chap. VIII_. Of _Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Moral_, and
_Political_; with divers _Historical_ Passages, and Solemnities, to shew
the _Riches, Beauty, Wonder, Plenty, Delight_, and Universal Use of
Gardens.
_Chap. IX_. Of Garden _Burial_.
_Chap. X_. Of _Paradise_, and of the most _Famous Gardens_ in the World,
_Ancient_ and _Modern_.
_Chap. XI_. The Description of a _Villa_.
_Chap. XII_. The _Corollary_ and _Conclusion_.
----_Laudato ingentia rura_,
_Exiguum colito_.----
* * * * *
[Illustration]
ACETARIA:
A Discourse of Sallets
* * * * *
Sallets in general consist of certain _Esculent_ Plants and Herbs,
improv'd by Culture, Industry, and Art of the _Gard'ner_: Or, as others
say, they are a Composition of _Edule_ Plants and Roots of several
kinds, to be eaten _Raw_ or _Green, Blanch'd_ or _Candied_: simple--and
_per se_, or intermingl'd with others according to the Season. The
Boil'd, Bak'd, Pickl'd, or otherwise disguis'd, variously accommodated
by the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more feminine
Palat, or Herbs rather for the Pot, _&c._ challenge not the name of
_Sallet_ so properly here, tho' sometimes mention'd; And therefore,
Those who _Criticize_ not so nicely upon the Word, seem to distinguish
the [4]_Olera_ (which were never eaten _Raw_) from _Acetaria_, which
were never _Boil'd;_ and so they derive the Etymology of _Olus_, from
_Olla, the Pot_. But others deduce it from [Greek: Olos], comprehending
the _Universal Genus_ of the Vegetable Kingdom; as from [Greek: Pan]
_Panis;_ esteeming that he who had [5]_Bread_ and _Herbs_, was
sufficiently bless'd with all a frugal Man cou'd need or desire: Others
again will have it, _ab Olendo_, i.e. _Crescendo_, from its continual
_growth and springing up_: So the younger _Scaliger_ on _Varro_: But his
Father _Julius_ extends it not so generally to all Plants, as to all
the _Esculents_, according to the Text: _We call those_ Olera (says
[6]_Theophrastus) which are commonly eaten_, in which sense it may be
taken, to include both _Boil'd_ and _Raw_: Last of all, _ab Alendo_,
as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the
[7]Creation.
A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the
_Cumini Sectores_, and impertinently Curious; whilst as it concerns
the business in hand, we are by _Sallet_ to understand a particular
Composition of certain _Crude_ and fresh Herbs, such as usually are,
or may safely be eaten with some _Acetous_ Juice, _Oyl, Salt_, &c. to
give them a grateful Gust and _Vehicle_; exclusive of the [8][Greek:
psuchrai trapezai], eaten without their due Correctives, which the
Learned [9]_Salmasius_, and, indeed generally, the [10]old _Physicians_
affirm (and that truly) all _Crude_ and raw [Greek: lachana] require
to render them wholsome; so as probably they were from hence, as
[11]_Pliny_ thinks, call'd _Acetaria_: and not (as _Hermolaus_ and
some others) _Acceptaria ab Accipiendo_; nor from Accedere, though so
[12]ready at hand, and easily dress'd; requiring neither _Fire, Cost_,
or _Attendance_, to boil, roast, and prepare them as did Flesh, and
other Provisions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were always
in use, _&c._ And hence indeed the more frugal _Italians_ and _French_,
to this Day, gather _Ogni Verdura_, any thing almost that's _Green_
and Tender, to the very Tops of _Nettles_; so as every Hedge affords
a _Sallet_ (not unagreeable) season'd with its proper _Oxybaphon_ of
_Vinegar, Salt, Oyl_, &c. which doubtless gives it both the Relish
and Name of _Salad, Emsalada_[13], as with us of _Sallet_; from the
_Sapidity_, which renders not _Plants_ and _Herbs_ alone, but _Men_
themselves, and their Conversations, pleasant and agreeable: But of
this enough, and perhaps too much; least whilst I write of _Salt_ and
_Sallet_, I appear my self _Insipid_: I pass therefore to the
Ingredients, which we will call
Furniture _and_ Materials
The _Materials_ of _Sallets_, which together with the grosser _Olera_,
consist of _Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers_, &c. _Fruits_
(belonging to another Class) would require a much ampler Volume, than
would suit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends to be an _Appendix_
only) should we extend the following _Catalogue_ further than to a brief
enumeration only of such _Herbaceous_ Plants, _Oluscula_ and smaller
_Esculents_, as are chiefly us'd in _Cold Sallets_, of whose Culture we
have treated there; and as we gather them from the _Mother_ and _Genial
Bed_, with a touch only of their _Qualities_, for Reasons hereafter
given.
1. Alexanders, _Hipposelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare_ (much of the
nature of _Persly_) is moderately hot, and of a cleansing Faculty,
Deobstructing, nourishing, and comforting the Stomach. The gentle fresh
Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be chosen, and the Stalks eaten in the
Spring; and when _Blanch'd_, in Winter likewise, with _Oyl, Pepper,
Salt_, &c. by themselves, or in Composition: They make also an excellent
_Vernal_ Pottage.
2. Artichaux, _Cinara_, (_Carduus Sativus_) hot and dry. The Heads being
slit in quarters first eaten raw, with _Oyl_, a little _Vinegar, Salt_,
and _Pepper_, gratefully recommend a Glass of _Wine_; Dr. _Muffet_ says,
at the end of Meals.
They are likewise, whilst tender and small, fried in fresh _Butter_
crisp with _Persley_. But then become a most delicate and excellent
Restorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The
_Bottoms_ are also bak'd in _Pies_, with _Marrow, Dates_, and other rich
Ingredients: In _Italy_ they sometimes broil them, and as the Scaly
Leaves open, baste them with fresh and sweet _Oyl_; but with Care
extraordinary, for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; that
hazard escap'd, they eat them with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_.
The Stalk is _Blanch'd_ in Autumn, and the _Pith_ eaten raw or boil'd.
The way of preserving them fresh all Winter, is by separating the
_Bottoms_ from the _Leaves_, and after Parboiling, allowing to every
_Bottom_, a small earthen glaz'd Pot; burying it all over in fresh
melted _Butter_, as they do Wild-Fowl, _&c._ Or if more than one, in
a larger Pot, in the same Bed and Covering, _Layer_ upon _Layer_.
They are also preserv'd by stringing them on Pack-thread, a clean Paper
being put between every _Bottom_, to hinder them from touching one
another, and so hung up in a dry place. They are likewise _Pickl'd_.
'Tis not very long since this noble _Thistle_ came first into _Italy_,
Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and so rare in _England_, that
they were commonly sold for _Crowns_ a piece: But what _Carthage_ yearly
spent in them (as _Pliny_ computes the Sum) amounted to _Sestertia Sena
Millia_, 30000 _l. Sterling_.
_Note_, That the _Spanish Cardon_, a wild and smaller _Artichoak_, with
sharp pointed Leaves, and lesser Head; the Stalks being _Blanch'd_ and
tender, are serv'd-up _a la Poiverade_ (that is with _Oyl, Pepper_, &c.)
as the _French_ term is.
3. Basil, _Ocimum_ (as _Baulm_) imparts a grateful Flavour, if not too
strong, somewhat offensive to the Eyes; and therefore the tender Tops
to be very sparingly us'd in our _Sallet_.
4. Baulm, _Melissa, Baum_, hot and dry, Cordial and exhilarating,
sovereign for the Brain, strengthning the Memory, and powerfully chasing
away _Melancholy_. The tender Leaves are us'd in Composition with other
Herbs; and the Sprigs fresh gather'd, put into _Wine_ or other Drinks,
during the heat of Summer, give it a marvellous quickness: This noble
Plant yields an incomparable _Wine_, made as is that of _Cowslip_-Flowers.
5. Beet, _Beta_; of which there is both _Red, Black_, and _White_: The
_Costa_, or Rib of the _White Beet_ (by the _French_ call'd the _Chard_)
being boil'd, melts, and eats like Marrow. And the _Roots_ (especially
of the _Red_) cut into thin slices, boil'd, when cold, is of it self a
grateful winter _Sallet_; or being mingl'd with other _Oluscula, Oyl,
Vinegar, Salt_, &c. 'Tis of quality Cold and Moist, and naturally
somewhat _Laxative_: But however by the _Epigrammatist_ stil'd
_Foolish_ and _Insipid, as Innocentior quam Olus_ (for so the Learned
[14]_Harduin_ reads the place) 'tis by _Diphilus_ of old, and others
since, preferr'd before _Cabbage_ as of better Nourishment: _Martial_
(not unlearn'd in the Art of _Sallet_) commends it with _Wine_ and
_Pepper_: He names it indeed--_Fabrorum prandia_, for its being so
vulgar. But eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, as usually, it is no
despicable _Sallet_. There is a _Beet_ growing near the Sea, which is
the most delicate of all. The Roots of the _Red Beet_, pared into thin
Slices and Circles, are by the _French_ and _Italians_ contriv'd into
curious Figures to adorn their _Sallets_.
_6_. Blite, _Blitum_; English _Mercury_, or (as our Country House wives
call it) _All-good_, the gentle _Turiones_, and Tops may be eaten as
_Sparagus_, or sodden in Pottage: There is both a white and red, much
us'd in _Spain_ and _Italy_; but besides its humidity and detersive
Nature, 'tis _Insipid_ enough.
7. Borrage, _Borrago_ (_Gaudia semper ago_) hot and kindly moist,
purifying the Blood, is an exhilarating Cordial, of a pleasant Flavour:
The tender Leaves, and Flowers especially, may be eaten in Composition;
but above all, the Sprigs in _Wine_, like those of _Baum_, are of known
Vertue to revive the _Hypochondriac_, and chear the hard Student. See
_Bugloss_.
8. Brooklime, _Anagallis aquatica_; moderately hot and moist, prevalent
in the _Scorbute_, and _Stone_.
9. Bugloss, _Buglossum_; in mature much like _Borrage_, yet something
more astringent. The Flowers of both, with the intire Plant, greatly
restorative, being Conserv'd: And for the rest, so much commended by
_Averroes_; that for its effects, cherishing the Spirits, justly call'd
_Euphrosynum_; Nay, some will have it the _Nepenthes_ of _Homer_: But
indeed, what we now call _Bugloss_, was not that of the Ancients, but
rather _Borrage_, for the like Virtue named _Corrago_.
Burnet, See _Pimpinella_.
10. Buds, _Gemmæ, Turiones_; the first Rudiments and Tops of most
_Sallet_-Plants, preferrable to all other less tender Parts; such as
_Ashen-Keys, Broom-buds_, hot and dry, retaining the vertue of _Capers_,
esteem'd to be very opening, and prevalent against the _Spleen_ and
_Scurvy_; and being _Pickl'd_, are sprinkl'd among the _Sallets_, or
eaten by themselves.
11. Cabbage, _Brassica_ (and its several kinds) _Pompey's_ beloved Dish,
so highly celebrated by old [15]_Cato_, _Pythagoras_, and _Chrysippus_
the Physician (as the only _Panacea_) is not so generally magnify'd
by the rest of Doctors, as affording but a crass and melancholy Juice;
yet _Loosening_ if but moderately boil'd, if over-much, _Astringent_,
according to _C. Celsus_; and therefore seldom eaten raw, excepting
by the _Dutch_. The _Cymæ_, or Sprouts rather of the _Cole_ are very
delicate, so boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green Colour. In
raising this _Plant_ great care is to be had of the Seed. The best comes
from _Denmark_ and _Russia_, especially the _Cauly-flower_, (anciently
unknown) or from _Aleppo_. Of the _French_, the _Pancaliere a la large
Costé_, the white, large and ponderous are to be chosen; and so the
_Cauly-flower_: After boiling some steep them in Milk, and seethe them
again in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little _Nitre_. The _Broccoli_
from _Naples_, perhaps the _Halmyridia_ of _Pliny_ (or _Athenæus_
rather) _Capiata marina_ & _florida_, our _Sea-keele_ (the ancient
_Crambe_) and growing on our Coast, are very delicate, as are the
_Savoys_, commended for being not so rank, but agreeable to most
_Palates_, and of better Nourishment: In general, _Cabbages_ are thought
to allay Fumes, and prevent Intoxication: But some will have them
noxious to the Sight; others impute it to the _Cauly-flower_ rather: But
whilst the Learned are not agreed about it, _Theophrastus_ affirms the
contrary, and _Pliny_ commends the Juice raw, with a little _Honey_, for
the moist and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, _Cabbage_
('tis confess'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigested in the Stomach,
and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the Veneration we
read the Ancients had for them, calling them _Divine_, and Swearing,
_per Brassicam_. 'Tis scarce an hundred Years since we first had
_Cabbages_ out of _Holland_. Sir _Anth. Ashley_ of _Wiburg St. Giles_
in _Dorsetshire_, being (as I am told) the first who planted them in
_England_.
12. Cardon, See _Artichaux_.
13. Carrots, _Dauci_, or _Pastinaca Sativa_; temperately warm and dry,
Spicy; the best are yellow, very nourishing; let them be rais'd in
Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy.
14. Chervile, _Chærophyllum, Myrrhis_; The sweet aromatick _Spanish
Chervile_, moderately hot and dry: The tender _Cimæ_, and Tops, with
other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our _Sallets_, (as long as they
may be had) being exceedingly wholsome and chearing the Spirits: The
_Roots_ are also boil'd and eaten Cold; much commended for Aged Persons:
This (as likewise _Spinach_) is us'd in _Tarts_, and serves alone for
divers Sauces.
Cibbols. \
Cives. / Vide Onions, _Schoenopræsson_.
15. Clary, _Horminum_, when tender not to be rejected, and in _Omlets_,
made up with _Cream_, fried in sweet _Butter_, are eaten with _Sugar_,
Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_.
16. Clavers, _Aparine_; the tender Winders, with young _Nettle-Tops_,
are us'd in _Lenten_ Pottages.
17. Corn-sallet, _Valerianella_; loos'ning and refreshing: The Tops
and Leaves are a _Sallet_ of themselves, seasonably eaten with other
Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The _French_ call
them _Salad de Preter_, for their being generally eaten in _Lent_.
18. Cowslips, _Paralysis_: See _Flowers_.
19. Cresses, _Nasturtium_, Garden _Cresses_; to be monthly sown: But
above all the _Indian_, moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken the
torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are of singular effect against
the _Scorbute_. Both the tender Leaves, _Calices, Cappuchin Capers_,
and _Flowers_, are laudably mixed with the colder Plants. The _Buds_
being Candy'd, are likewise us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the
_Nastur. Hybernicum_ commended also, and the vulgar _Water-Cress_,
proper in the Spring, all of the same Nature, tho' of different Degrees,
and best for raw and cold Stomachs, but nourish little.
20. Cucumber, _Cucumis_; tho' very cold and moist, the most approved
_Sallet_ alone, or in Composition, of all the _Vinaigrets_, to sharpen
the Appetite, and cool the Liver, [16]_&c._ if rightly prepar'd; that
is, by rectifying the vulgar Mistake of altogether extracting the Juice,
in which it should rather be soak'd: Nor ought it to be over _Oyl'd_,
too much abating of its grateful _Acidity_, and _palling_ the Taste from
a contrariety of Particles: Let them therefore be pared, and cut in
thin Slices, with a _Clove_ or two of _Onion_ to correct the Crudity,
macerated in the Juice, often turn'd and moderately drain'd. Others
prepare them, by shaking the Slices between two Dishes, and dress them
with very little _Oyl_, well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of
_Limon, Orange_, or _Vinegar, Salt_ and _Pepper_. Some again, (and
indeed the most approv'd) eat them as soon as they are cut, retaining
their Liquor, which being exhausted (by the former Method) have nothing
remaining in them to help the Concoction. Of old they [17]boil'd the
_Cucumber_, and paring off the Rind, eat them with _Oyl, Vinegar_, and
_Honey_; _Sugar_ not being so well known. Lastly, the _Pulp_ in Broth is
greatly refreshing, and may be mingl'd in most _Sallets_, without the
least damage, contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, since
_Cucumber_, however dress'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being
accounted little better than Poyson. _Tavernier_ tells us, that in
the _Levant_, if a Child cry for something to Eat, they give it a
raw _Cucumber_ instead of _Bread_. The young ones may be boil'd in
White-Wine. The smaller sort (known by the name of _Gerckems_) muriated
with the Seeds of _Dill_, and the _Mango_ Pickle are for the Winter.
21. Daisy, _Buphthalmum_, Ox-Eye, or _Bellis-major_: The young _Roots_
are frequently eaten by the _Spaniards_ and _Italians_ all the Spring
till _June_.
22. Dandelion, _Dens Leonis, Condrilla_: Macerated in several Waters,
to extract the bitterness; tho' somewhat opening, is very wholsome, and
little inferior to _Succory, Endive_, &c. The _French_ Country-People
eat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely _Sallet_, the Good-Wife
_Hecate_ entertain'd _Theseus_. See _Sowthistle_.
23. Dock, _Oxylapathum_, or sharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and tho'
otherwise not for our _Sallet_, the _Roots_ brewed in _Ale_ or _Beer_,
are excellent for the _Scorbute_.
Earth-Nuts, _Bulbo-Castanum_; (found in divers places of _Surry_, near
_Kingston_, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude by
Rustics, with a little _Pepper_; but are best boil'd like other Roots,
or in Pottage rather, and are sweet and nourishing.
24. Elder, _Sambucus_; The Flowers infus'd in _Vinegar_, grateful both
to the Stomach and Taste; attenuate thick and viscid Humours; and tho'
the Leaves are somewhat rank of Smell, and so not commendable in
_Sallet_; they are otherwise (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the most
sovereign Vertue; and the spring Buds and tender Leaves, excellently
wholsome in Pottage at that Season of the Year. See _Flowers_.
25. Endive, _Endivium, Intubum Sativum_; the largest, whitest, and
tenderest Leaves best boil'd, and less crude. It is naturally Cold,
profitable for hot Stomachs; _Incisive_ and opening Obstructions
of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or in
Composition, with the usual _Intinctus_: It is also excellent being
boil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk separated, eats firm, and
the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before _Lettuce_. See _Succory_.
Eschalot. See _Onions_.
26. Fennel, _Foeniculum_: The sweetest of _Bolognia_: Aromatick,
hot, and dry; expels Wind, sharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain;
especially the tender _Umbella_ and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be
peel'd when young, and then dress'd like _Sellery_. The tender Tufts and
Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with _Vinegar_, or _Oyl_,
and _Pepper_, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into
Composition. The _Italians_ eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call
_Cartucci_) all Winter long. There is a very small _Green-Worm_, which
sometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out,
as the _Red_ one in that of _Sellery_.
27. Flowers, _Flores_; chiefly of the _Aromatick Esculents_ and
Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their
_Simples_, in a more intense degree; and may therefore be eaten alone
in their proper _Vehicles_, or Composition with other _Salleting_,
sprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Relish, being Infus'd
in _Vinegar_; Especially those of the _Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange,
Cowslip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Nasturtium Indicum_, &c. Some of
them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make also very pleasant and wholsome
_Theas_, as do likewise the Wild _Time, Bugloss, Mint_, &c.
28. Garlick, _Allium_; dry towards Excess; and tho' both by _Spaniards_
and _Italians_, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with
almost every thing, and esteem'd of such sigular Vertue to help
Conception, and thought a Charm against all Infection and Poyson (by
which it has obtain'd the Name of the _Country-man's Theriacle_) we yet
think it more proper for our Northern Rustics, especially living in
_Uliginous_ and moist places, or such as use the _Sea_: Whilst we
absolutely forbid it entrance into our _Salleting_, by reason of its
intolerable Rankness, and which made it so detested of old; that the
eating of it was (as we read) part of the Punishment for such as had
committed the horrid'st Crimes. To be sure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats,
nor those who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the
Dish, with a _Clove_ thereof, much better supply'd by the gentler
_Roccombo_.
_Note_, That in _Spain_ they sometimes eat it boil'd, which taming its
fierceness, turns it into Nourishment, or rather _Medicine_.
Ginny-Pepper, _Capsicum_. See _Pepper_.
29. Goats-beard, _Trago-pogon:_ The _Root_ is excellent even in
_Sallet_, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breast,
and may be stew'd and dress'd as _Scorzonera_.
30. Hops, _Lupulus_: Hot and moist, rather _Medicinal_, than fit for
_Sallet_; the _Buds_ and young _Tendrels_ excepted, which may be eaten
raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like _Asparagus_: They
are _Diuretic_; depurate the Blood, and open Obstructions.
31. Hyssop, _Hyssopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran,
Mary-gold_, &c. as all hot, spicy _Aromatics_, (commonly growing in
_Kitchin-Gardens_) are of Faculty to Comfort, and strengthen; prevalent
against Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like these, going under the Names
of _Pot Herbs_, are much more proper for _Broths_ and _Decoctions_, than
the tender _Sallet_: Yet the _Tops_ and _Flowers_ reduc'd to Powder, are
by some reserv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients;
communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy.
32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, _Alliaria_, or _Sauce-alone_; has many Medicinal
Properties, and is eaten as other _Sallets_, especially by Country
People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges.