Having proceeded to the latitude of 51° 40ʹ, where he will make the

southernmost point of the island of Sagaleen, beyond which the sea of

Okotsk is sufficiently known, he will steer to the southward, probably

in the beginning of June, and endeavour to fall in with the southernmost

of the Kurile Islands. Ouroop or Nadeschda, according to the accounts of

the Russians, will furnish the ships with a good harbour, where they may

wood and water, and take in such other refreshments as the place may

afford. Toward the end of June, they will shape their course for the

Shummagins, and from thence to Cook’s River, purchasing, as they

proceed, as many skins as they are able, without losing too much time,

since they ought to steer again to the southward, and trace the coast

with great accuracy from the latitude of 56° to 50°, the space from

which we were driven out of sight of land by contrary winds. It should

here be remarked, that I consider the purchase of skins, in this

expedition, merely as a secondary object, for defraying the expence; and

it cannot be doubted, from our experience in the present voyage, that

two hundred and fifty skins, worth one hundred dollars each, may be

procured without any loss of time; especially as it is probable they

will be met with along the coast to the southward of Cook’s River.

Having spent three months on the coast of America, they will set out on

their return to China early in the month of October, avoiding in their

route, as much as possible, the tracks of former navigators. I have now

only to add, that if the fur trade should become a fixed object of

Indian commerce, frequent opportunities will occur of completing

whatever may be left unfinished, in the voyage of which I have here

ventured to delineate the outlines.

The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinese for our sea-otter

skins, had produced a very whimsical change in the dress of all our

crew. On our arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the ragged

appearance both of the younger officers and seamen; for, as our voyage

had already exceeded, by near a twelvemonth, the time it was at first

imagined we should remain at sea, almost the whole of our original stock

of European clothes had been long worn out, or patched up with skins,

and the various manufactures we had met with in the course of our

discoveries. These were now again mixed and eked out with the gaudiest

silks and cottons of China.

On the 30th, Mr. Lannyon arrived with the stores and provisions, which

were immediately stowed in due proportion on board the two ships. The

next day, agreeably to a bargain made by Captain Gore, I sent our sheet

anchor to the country ship, and received in return the guns, which she

before rode by.

Whilst we lay in the Typa, I was shown a garden belonging to an English

gentleman at Macao, the rock, under which, as the tradition there goes,

the poet Camoens used to sit and compose his Lusiad. It is a lofty arch,

of one solid stone, and forms the entrance of a grotto dug out of the

rising ground behind it. The rock is overshaded by large spreading

trees, and commands an extensive and magnificent view of the sea, and

the interspersed islands.

On the 11th of January, two seamen belonging to the Resolution found

means to run off with a six-oared cutter, and notwithstanding diligent

search was made, both that and the following day, we were never able to

learn any tidings of her. It was supposed, that these people had been

seduced by the prevailing notion of making a fortune, by returning to

the fur islands.

As we heard nothing, during our stay in the Typa, of the measurement of

the ships, it may be concluded, that the point so strongly contested by

the Chinese, in Lord Anson’s time, has, in consequence of his firmness

and resolution, never since been insisted on.

The following nautical observations were made while we lay here:

Harbour of Macao, { Lat. 22° 12ʹ 0ʺ N.

{ Long. 113 47 0 E.

Anchoring-place in the { Lat. 22 9 20 N.

Typa, { Long. 113 48 34 E.

Mean dip of the north pole } 21 1 0

of the magnetic needle }

Variation of the compass, 0 19 0 W.

On the full and change days, it was high water in the Typa at 5^h 15^m,

and in Macao harbour at 5^h 50^m. The greatest rise was six feet one

inch. The flood appeared to come from the south eastward; but we could

not determine this point with certainty, on account of the great number

of islands which lie off the mouth of the river of Canton.

_Price of Provisions at Canton, 1780._

£ _s._ _d._

Ananas 0 4 0 a score.

Arrack 0 0 8 _per_ bottle.

Butter 0 2 4-4/5 _per_ catty.[79]

Beef, Canton 0 0 2-3/4

Ditto, Macao 0 0 5-1/5

Birds-nests 3 6 8

Biscuit 0 0 4

Beache de Mar 0 2 0-4/5

Calf 1 6 9-3/5 each.

Caravances, dried 0 0 2-2/5 _per_ catty.

Cabbage, Nankeen 0 0 4-4/5

Curry stuff 0 1 4

Coffee 0 1 4

Cocoa-nuts 0 0 4 each.

Charcoal 0 3 4 _per_ pecul.

Coxice 0 1 4 _per_ catty.

Canton nuts 0 0 4

Chesnuts 0 0 2-2/5

Cockles 0 0 3-1/5

Ducks 0 0 5-1/5

Ditto, wild 0 1 0-4/5 each.

Deers’ sinews 0 2 1-3/5 _per_ catty.

Eels 0 0 6-2/5

Eggs 0 2 0 _per_ hundred.

Fish, common 0 0 3-1/5 _per_ catty.

Ditto, best 0 0 6-2/5

Ditto salted, Nankeen 0 0 9-3/5

Fruit 0 0 1-3/5

Ditto, Nankeen 0 2 0

Frogs 0 0 6-2/5

Flour 0 0 1-76/100

Fowls, capons, &c. 0 0 7-1/5

Fish maws 0 2 1-3/5

Geese 0 0 6-2/5

Greens 0 0 1-3/4

Grass 0 0 2-2/5 _per_ bundle.

Grapes 0 1 0-4/5 _per_ catty.

Ham 0 1 2-2/5

Hartshorn 0 1 4

Hogs’ Lard 0 0 7-2/5

Hog, alive 0 0 4-3/4

Kid, alive 0 0 4-3/4

Limes 0 0 0-4/5

Litchis, dried 0 0 2-2/5

Locksoy 0 0 6-2/5

Lobchocks 0 0 5-3/5 _per_ catty.

Lamp oil 0 0 5-3/5

Lamp wick 0 0 8

Melons 0 0 4-4/5 each.

Milk 0 0 1-1/4 _per_ catty.

Ditto, Macao 0 0 3-1/5

Mustard seed 0 0 6-2/5

Mushrooms, pickled 0 2 8

Ditto, fresh 0 1 4

Oysters 0 3 4 _per_ pecul.

Onions, dried 0 0 2-2/5 _per_ catty.

Pork 0 0 7-1/7

Pig 0 0 5-3/5

Paddy 0 0 0-4/5

Pepper 0 1 0-4/5

Pheasants 0 5 4 each.

Partridges 0 0 9-3/5

Pigeons 0 0 5-1/5

Pomegranates 0 0 2-2/5

Quails 0 0 1-3/5

Rabbits 0 1 4

Rice 0 0 2 _per_ catty.

Ditto, red 0 0 2-2/5

Ditto, coarse 0 0 1-1/5

Ditto, Japan 0 0 8

Raisins 0 2 0

Sheep 3 6 8 each.

Snipes 0 0 1-1/2 _per_ catty.

Sturgeon 0 4 9-3/5

Ditto, small 0 2 4-4/5

Sugar 0 0 3-1/5

Salt 0 0 1-3/5

Saltpetre 0 2 1-3/5

Soy 0 0 1-3/5

Spices 0 16 8

Sweet-meats 0 0 6-2/5 _per_ catty.

Sago 0 0 3-1/5

Sallad 0 0 2-2/5

Sharks’ fins 0 2 1-3/5

Samsui soy 0 0 2-2/5

Teal 0 0 6-2/5 each.

Turtle 0 0 9-3/5 _per_ catty.

Tea 0 2 0

Turmeric 0 0 2-2/5

Tamarinds 0 0 8

Vinegar 0 0 1-3/5

Vermicelli 0 0 3-1/5

Wax candles 0 3 0

Walnuts 0 0 4-4/5

Wood 0 1 4 _per_ pecul.

Water 0 6 8 _per_ 100 B^s.

£ _s._ _d._

Rent of Poho Factory 400 0 0 _per annum._

---- of Lunsoon 316 13 4

Servants’ rice 0 8 0 _per_ month.

Ditto, wages 0 19 2-2/5 { _per_ month

{ for resiants.

_Doll._

Servants’ wages for the season 20

Stewards’ wages 80 _per annum._

Butlers’ ditto 80

_Prices of Labour._

£ _s._ _d._

A coolee, or porter 0 0 8 _per_ day.

A taylor 0 0 5 and rice.

A handicraftsman 0 0 8

A common labourer, from 0 0 3_d._ to 5_d._

A woman’s labour considerably cheaper.

CHAP. X.

LEAVE THE TYPA.—ORDERS OF THE COURT OF FRANCE RESPECTING CAPTAIN COOK.—

RESOLUTIONS IN CONSEQUENCE THEREOF.—STRIKE SOUNDINGS ON THE

MACCLESFIELD BANKS.—PASS PULO SAPATA.—STEER FOR PULO CONDORE.—ANCHOR

AT PULO CONDORE.—TRANSACTIONS DURING OUR STAY.—JOURNEY TO THE

PRINCIPAL TOWN.—RECEIVE A VISIT FROM A MANDARIN.—EXAMINE HIS LETTERS.—

REFRESHMENTS TO BE PROCURED.—DESCRIPTION AND PRESENT STATE OF THE

ISLAND.—ITS PRODUCE.—AN ASSERTION OF M. SONNERAT REFUTED.—ASTRONOMICAL

AND NAUTICAL OBSERVATIONS.

On the 12th of January, 1780, at noon, we unmoored, and scaled the guns,

which, on board my ship, now amounted to ten; so that, by means of four

additional ports, we could, if occasion required, fight seven on a side.

In like manner, the Resolution had increased the number of her guns from

twelve to sixteen; and, in both ships, a stout barricade was carried

round their upper works, and every other precaution taken to give our

small force as respectable an appearance as possible.

We thought it our duty to provide ourselves with these means of defence,

though we had some reason to believe, that the generosity of our enemies

had, in a great measure, rendered them superfluous. We were informed at

Canton, that the public prints, which had arrived last from England,

made mention of instructions having been found on board all the French

ships of war, captured in Europe, directing their commanders, in case of

falling in with the ships that sailed under the command of Captain Cook,

to suffer them to proceed on their voyage without molestation. The same

orders were also said to have been given by the American Congress to the

vessels employed in their service. As this intelligence was farther

confirmed by private letters of several of the supercargoes, Captain

Gore thought himself bound, in return for the liberal exceptions made in

our favour, to refrain from availing himself of any opportunities of

capture, which these might afford, and to preserve, throughout his

voyage, the strictest neutrality.

At two in the afternoon, having got under sail, the Resolution saluted

the fort of Macao with eleven guns, which was returned with the same

number. At five, the wind dropping, the ship missed stays, and drove

into shallow water; but, by carrying out an anchor, she was hauled off

without receiving the smallest damage. The weather continuing calm, we

were obliged to warp out into the entrance of the Typa, which we gained

by eight o’clock, and lay there till nine the next morning; when by the

help of a fresh breeze from the east, we stood to the southward between

Potoe and Wungboo.

At noon, we were saluted by a Swedish ship as she passed us on her way

to Europe. At four, the Ladrone bore east, distant two leagues. We now

steered south half-east, with a fresh breeze from the east-north-east,

without any occurrence worth remarking, till noon of the 15th; when,

being in latitude 18° 57ʹ, and longitude 114° 13ʹ, the wind veering to

the north, we directed our course half a point more to the eastward, in

order to strike soundings over the Macclesfield Bank. This we effected

at eight in the evening of the 16th, and found the depth of water to be

fifty fathoms, over a bottom of white sand and shells. This part of the

Macclesfield shoals we placed in latitude 15° 51ʹ, and longitude 114°

20ʹ; which agrees very exactly with the position given in Mr.

Dalrymple’s map, whose general accuracy, if it stood in need of any

support, was confirmed, in this instance, by a great number of lunar

observations, which we had an opportunity of making every day since we

left the Typa. The variation was found to be, in the forenoon, 0° 39ʹ W.

On the 17th, we had heavy gales from the east by north, with a rough

tumbling sea, and the weather overcast and boisterous. On the 18th, the

wind still continued to blow strong, and the sea to run high, we altered

our course to south-west, by south; and, at noon, being in latitude 12°

34ʹ, longitude 132°, we began to steer a point more to the westward for

Pulo Sapata, which we saw on the 19th, at four in the afternoon, bearing

north-west by west, about four leagues distant. This small, high, barren

island is called _Sapata_, from its resemblance of a shoe. Our

observations, compared with Mr. Bayly’s time-keeper, place it in

latitude 10° 4ʹ N., longitude 109° 10ʹ E. The gale had, at this time,

increased with such violence, and the sea ran so high, as to oblige us

to close-reef the top-sails. During the last three days, the ships had

outrun their reckoning at the rate of twenty miles a-day; and as we

could not attribute the whole of this to the effects of a following sea,

we imputed it in part to a current, which, according to my own

calculations, had set forty-two miles to the south south-west, between

the noon of the 19th and the noon of the 20th; and is taken into the

account in determining the situation of the island.

After passing Sapata, we steered to the westward; and at midnight

sounded, and had ground with fifty fathoms of line, over a fine sandy

bottom. In the morning of the 20th, the wind becoming more moderate, we

let out the reefs, and steered west by south for Pulo Condore. At noon

the latitude was 8° 46ʹ N., longitude 106° 45ʹ E.; and, at half-past

twelve, we got sight of the island, bearing west. At four, the extremes

of Pulo Condore, and the islands that lie off it, bore south-east and

south-west by west; our distance from the nearest islands being two

miles. We kept to the north of the islands, and stood for the harbour on

the south-west end of Condore, which having its entrance from the

north-west, is the best sheltered during the north-east monsoon. At six

we anchored, with the best bower, in six fathoms, veered away two-thirds

of the cable, and kept the ship steady with a stream anchor and cable to

the south-east. When moored, the extremes of the entrance of the harbour

bore north by west, and west north-west one quarter west; the opening at

the upper end south-east by east, three quarters east; our distance from

the nearest shore a quarter of a mile.

As soon as we were come to anchor, Captain Gore fired a gun, with a view

of apprising the natives of our arrival, and drawing them toward the

shore, but without effect. Early in the morning of the 21st, parties

were sent to cut wood, which was Captain Gore’s principal motive for

coming hither. In the afternoon, a sudden gust of wind broke the

stream-cable, by which the Discovery was riding, and obliged us to moor

with the bower anchors.

None of the natives having yet made their appearance, notwithstanding a

second gun had been fired, Captain Gore thought it advisable to land and

go in search of them, that no time might be lost in opening a trade for

such provisions as the place could afford. With this view he appointed

me to accompany him in the morning of the 22d; and, as the wind at this

time blew strong from the east, we did not think it prudent to coast in

our boats to the town, which is situated in the east side of the island,

but rowed round the north point of the harbour. We had proceeded about

two miles along the shore, when observing a road that led into a wood,

we landed. Here I quitted Captain Gore, taking with me a midshipman and

four armed sailors, and pursued the path which seemed to point directly

across the island. We proceeded through a thick wood up a steep hill, to

the distance of a mile, when, after descending through a wood of the

same extent, on the other side, we came out into a flat, open, sandy

country, interspersed with cultivated spots of rice and tobacco, and

groves of cabbage palm-trees, and cocoa-nut trees. We here spied two

huts situated on the edge of the wood, to which we directed our course;

and before we came up to them were descried by two men, who immediately

ran away from us, notwithstanding all the peaceable and supplicating

gestures we could devise.

On reaching the huts I ordered the party to stay without, lest the sight

of so many armed men should terrify the inhabitants, whilst I entered

and reconnoitred alone. I found in one of the huts an elderly man who

was in a great fright, and preparing to make off with the most valuable

of his effects that he could carry. However, I was fortunate enough, in

a very little time, so entirely to dispel his fears, that he came out

and called to the two men who were running away to return. The old man

and I now soon came to a perfect understanding. A few signs,

particularly that most significant one of holding out a handful of

dollars, and then pointing to a herd of buffaloes, and the fowls that

were running about the huts in great numbers, left him without any

doubts as to the real objects of our visit. He pointed toward a place

where the town stood, and made us comprehend that, by going thither, all

our wants would be supplied. By this time the young men who had fled

were returned, and the old man ordered one of them to conduct us to the

town as soon as an obstacle should be removed, of which we were not

aware. On our first coming out of the wood, a herd of buffaloes, to the

number of twenty at least, came running toward us, tossing up their

heads, snuffing the air, and roaring in a hideous manner. They had

followed us to the huts, and stood drawn up in a body at a little

distance; and the old man made us understand that it would be

exceedingly dangerous for us to move till they were driven into the

woods; but so enraged were the animals grown at the sight of us, that

this was not effected without a good deal of time and difficulty. The

men not being able to accomplish it, we were surprized to see them call

to their assistance a few little boys who soon drove them out of sight.

Afterward we had occasion to observe, that in driving these animals and

securing them, which is done by putting a rope through a hole which is

made in their nostrils, little boys were always employed, who could

stroke and handle them with impunity at times when the men durst not

approach them. Having got rid of the buffaloes, we were conducted to the

town, which was at a mile’s distance, the road to it lying through a

deep white sand. It is situated near the sea-side, at the bottom of a

retired bay, which must afford a safe road-stead during the prevalence

of the south-west monsoons.

This town consists of between twenty and thirty houses, built close

together; besides six or seven others that are scattered about the

beach. The roof, the two ends, and the side fronting the country, are

neatly constructed of reeds; the opposite side, facing the sea, is

entirely open; but, by means of a sort of bamboo screens, they can

exclude or let in as much of the sun and air as they please. We observed

likewise other large screens or partitions for the purpose of dividing,

as occasion required, the single room of which the house, properly

speaking, consists, into separate apartments.

We were conducted to the largest house in the town belonging to their

chief, or, as they called him, their captain. This house had a room at

each end, separated by a partition of reeds from the middle space, which

was open on both sides, and provided with partition-screens like the

others. It had, besides, a penthouse projecting four or five feet beyond

the roof, and running the whole length on each side. At each end of the

middle room were hung some Chinese paintings, representing men and women

in ludicrous attitudes. In this apartment we were civilly desired to

seat ourselves on mats, and _betel_ was presented to us.

By means of my money, and pointing at different objects in sight, I had

no difficulty in making a man, who seemed to be the principal person of

the company, comprehend the main business of our errand; and I as

readily understood from him that the chief or captain was absent, but

would soon return, and that, without his consent, no purchases of any

kind could be made. We availed ourselves of the opportunity which this

circumstance afforded us to walk about the town; and did not forget to

search, though in vain, for the remains of a fort, which had been built

by our countrymen near the spot we were now upon in 1702.[80]

On returning to the captain’s house, we were sorry to find that he was

not yet arrived, and the more so, as the time was almost elapsed which

Captain Gore had fixed for our return to the boat. The natives were

desirous we should lengthen our stay; they even proposed our passing the

night there, and offered to accommodate us in the best manner in their

power. I had observed when we were in the house before, and now remarked

it the more, that the man I have mentioned above, frequently retired

into one of the end rooms, and staid there some little time before he

answered the questions that were put to him; which led me to suspect

that the captain was all the time there, though, for reasons best known

to himself, he did not choose to appear; and I was confirmed in this

opinion by being stopped as I was attempting to go into the room. At

length, it clearly appeared that my suspicions were well founded; for,

on our preparing to depart, the person who had so often passed in and

out, came from the room with a paper in his hand, and gave it to me to

read; and I was not a little surprised to find it a sort of certificate

in French as follows:

PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE, Evêque d’Adran, Vicaire Apost. de Cochin China,

&c. &c.

Le petit _Mandarin_, porteur de cet écrit, est véritablement envoyé de

la cour à Pulo Condore, pour y attendre et recevoir tout vaisseau

Européen qui auroit sa destination d’approcher ici. Le capitaine, en

consequence, pourroit se fier ou pour conduire le vaisseau au port, ou

pour faire passer les nouvelles qu’il pourroit croire nécessaire.

PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE,

Evêque d’Adran.

A SAI-GON,

10 d’Août, 1779.

We returned the paper, with many protestations of our being the

_Mandarin’s_ good friends; begging he might be informed that we hoped he

would do us the favour to visit the ships, that we might convince him of

it. We now took our leave, well satisfied, on the whole, with what had

passed, but full of conjectures about this extraordinary French paper.

Three of the natives offered their services to accompany us back, which

we readily accepted, and returned by the way we came. Captain Gore felt

peculiar satisfaction at seeing us; for, as we had exceeded our time

near an hour, he began to be alarmed for our safety, and was preparing

to march after us. He and his party had, during our absence, been

profitably employed in loading the boat with the cabbage-palm, which

abounds in this bay. Our guides were made exceedingly happy, on our

presenting them with a dollar each for their trouble, and intrusting to

their care a bottle of rum for the _Mandarin_. One of them chose to

accompany us on board.

At two in the afternoon we joined the ships, and several of our shooting

parties returned about the same time from the woods, having had little

success, though they saw a great variety of birds and animals, some of

which will be hereafter noticed.

At five, a _proa_ with six men rowed up to the ship, from the upper end

of the harbour, and a decent-looking personage introduced himself to

Captain Gore with an ease and good breeding, which convinced us his time

had been spent in other company than what this island afforded. He

brought with him the French paper above transcribed, and said he was the

_Mandarin_ mentioned in it. He spoke a few Portugueze words, but as none

of us were acquainted with this language, we were obliged to have

recourse to a black man on board, who could speak the Malay, which is

the general language of these islanders, and was understood by the

_Mandarin_. After a little previous conversation, he declared to us,

that he was a Christian, and had been baptized by the name of Luco; that

he had been sent hither in August last, from Sai-gon, the capital of

Cochin China, and had since waited in expectation of some French ships,

which he was to pilot to a safe port, not more than a day’s sail hence,

upon the coast of Cochin China. We acquainted him, that we were not

French, but English, and asked him whether he did not know that these

two nations were now at war with one another? He made answer in the

affirmative; but, at the same time, signified to us, that it was

indifferent to him to what nation the ships he was instructed to wait

for belonged, provided their object was to trade with the people of

Cochin China. He here produced another paper, which he desired us to

read. This was a letter sealed and directed, “To the captains of any

European vessels that may touch at Condore.” Although we apprehended

that this letter was designed for French ships in particular, yet as the

direction included all European captains, and as Luco was desirous of

our perusing it, we broke the seal, and found it to be written by the

bishop who wrote the certificate. Its contents were as follows: “That

having reason to expect, by some late intelligence from Europe, that a

vessel would soon come to Cochin China, he had, in consequence of this

news, got the court to send a _Mandarin_ (the bearer) to Pulo Condore,

to wait its arrival; that if the vessel should put in there, the

commander might either send by the bearer an account to him of his

arrival, or trust himself to the _Mandarin_, who would pilot him into a

well-sheltered port in Cochin China, not more than a day’s sail from

Condore; that should he choose to remain in Condore, till the return of

the messenger, proper interpreters would be sent back, and any other

assistance, which a letter should point out, be furnished; that it was

unnecessary to be more particular, of which the captain himself must be

sensible.” This letter had the same date as the certificate, and was

returned to Luco again, without any copy being taken.

From this letter, and the whole of Luco’s conversation, there remained

little doubt that it was a French ship he was to expect. At the same

time, we found he would be glad not to lose his errand, and had no

objection to become our pilot. We could not discover from the

_Mandarin_, the exact object and business which the vessel he was

waiting for intended to prosecute in Cochin China. It is true, that our

interpreter, the black, was extremely dull and stupid; and I should,

therefore, be sorry, with such imperfect means of information, to run

the risk of misleading the reader by any conjectures of my own,

respecting the object of Luco’s visit to this island. I shall only add,

that he told us the French ships might perhaps have put into Tirnon, and

from thence sail to Cochin China; and, as he had received no

intelligence of them, he thought this most likely to have been the case.

Captain Gore’s inquiries were next directed to find out what supplies

could be obtained from the island. Luco said, that he had two buffaloes

of his own, which were at our service; and that there were plenty on the

island, which might be purchased for four or five dollars a head; but

finding that Captain Gore thought that sum exceedingly moderate, and

would willingly give for them a much greater, the price was afterwards

raised upon us to seven and eight dollars.

Early in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both ships were sent to

the town, to fetch the buffaloes which we had given orders to be

purchased; but they were obliged to wait, till it was high-water, as

they could at no other time get through the opening at the head of the

harbour. On their arrival at the village, they found the surf breaking

on the beach with such force, that it was with the utmost difficulty

each launch brought a buffalo on board in the evening, and the officers,

who were sent on this service, gave it as their opinion, that between

the violence of the surf, and the fierceness of the buffaloes, it would

be extremely imprudent to attempt bringing any more off in this way. We

had purchased eight, and were now at a loss in what manner to proceed to

get them on board. We could kill no more than was just necessary for the

consumption of one day, as in this climate meat will not keep till the

next. After consulting with Luco, it was concluded, that the remainder

should be driven through the wood, and over the hill down to the bay,

where Captain Gore and I had landed the day before, which being

sheltered from the wind, was more free from surf. This plan was

accordingly put in execution, but the untractableness and prodigious

strength of the buffaloes, rendered it a tedious and difficult

operation. The method of conducting them was, by passing ropes through

their nostrils, and round their horns; but having been once enraged at

the sight of our men, they became so furious, that they sometimes broke

the trees, to which we were often under the necessity of tying them;

sometimes they tore asunder the cartilage of the nostril, through which

the ropes ran, and got loose. On these occasions, all the exertions of

our men to recover them, would have been ineffectual, without the

assistance of some young boys, whom these animals would permit to

approach them, and by whose little managements their rage was soon

appeased. And, when at length they were got down to the beach, it was by

their aid, in twisting ropes round their legs, in the manner they were

directed, that we were enabled to throw them down, and by that means to

get them into the boats. A circumstance, respecting these animals, which

I thought no less singular than this gentleness toward, and, as it

should seem, affection for little children, was, that they had not been

twenty-four hours on board, before they became the tamest of all

creatures. I kept two of them, a male and female, for a considerable

time, which became great favourites with the sailors; and thinking that

a breed of animals of such strength and size, some of them weighing,

when dressed, seven hundred pounds’ weight, would be a valuable

acquisition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to England; but

my intention was frustrated by an incurable hurt that one of them

received at sea.

It was not till the 28th, that the buffaloes were all got on board;

however, there was no reason to regret the time taken up by this

service, since, in the interim, two wells of excellent water had been

discovered, of which, as also of wood, part of the ships’ companies had

been employed in laying in a good supply; so that a shorter stop would

be necessary for replenishing our stock of these articles, in the Strait

of Sunda. A party had likewise been occupied in drawing the seine at the

head of the harbour, where they took a great many good fish; and another

party in cutting down the cabbage-palm, which was boiled, and served out

with the meat. Besides this, having been able to procure only a scanty

supply of cordage at Macao, the repairing of our rigging was become an

object of constant attention, and demanded all our spare time.

Pulo Condore is high and mountainous, and surrounded by several smaller

islands, some of which are less than one, and others two miles distant.

It takes its name from two Malay words, _Pulo_, signifying an island,

and _Condore_, a calabash, of which it produces great quantities. It is

of the form of a crescent, extending near eight miles from the

southernmost point, in a north-east direction; but its breadth no where

exceeds two miles. From the westernmost extremity, the land trends to

the south-east for about four miles; and opposite to this part of the

coast there is an island, called by Monsieur D’Après[81] _Little

Condore_, which runs two miles in the same direction. This position of

the two islands affords a safe and commodious harbour, the entrance into

which is from the north-west. The distance between the two opposite

coasts is three-quarters of a mile, exclusive of a border of coral rock,

which runs down along each side, extending about one hundred yards from

the shore. The anchorage is very good, from eleven to five fathoms’

water, but the bottom is so soft and clayey, that we found great

difficulty in weighing our anchors. Toward the bottom of the harbour

there is shallow water for about half a mile, beyond which the two

islands approach so near each other, as to leave only a passage at high

water for boats. The most convenient place for watering is at a beach on

the eastern side, where there is a small stream which furnished us with

fourteen or fifteen tons of water a-day.

This island, both with respect to animal and vegetable productions, is

considerably improved since the time when Dampier visited it. Neither

that writer, nor the compiler of the East India Directory, make mention

of any other quadrupeds than hogs, which are said to be very scarce,

lizards, and the guanoes; and the latter, on the authority of Monsieur

Dedier, a French engineer, who surveyed the island about the year 1720,

says, that none of the fruits and esculent plants, so common in the

other parts of India, are to be found here, except water-melons, a few

potatoes, small gourds, _chibbols_ (a small species of onion), and

little black beans. At present, besides the buffaloes, of which we

understood there were several large herds, we purchased from the natives

some remarkably fine fat hogs, of the Chinese breed. They brought us

three or four of a wild sort; and our sportsmen reported, that they

frequently met with their tracks in the woods, which also abound with

monkeys and squirrels, but so shy, that it was difficult to shoot them.

One species of the squirrel was of a beautiful shining black colour, and

another species striped brown and white. This is called the

flying-squirrel, from being provided with a thin membrane, resembling a

bat’s wing, extending on each side the belly, from the neck to the

thighs, which, on stretching out their legs, spreads, and enables them

to fly from tree to tree, at a considerable distance. Lizards were in

great abundance; but I do not know that any of us saw the guano, and

another animal, described by Dampier[82] as resembling the guano, only

much larger.

Amongst its vegetable improvements, I have already mentioned the fields

of rice we passed through; and plantains, various kinds of pompions,

cocoa-nuts, oranges, shaddocks, and pomegranates, were also met with;

though, except the plantains and shaddocks, in no great abundance.

It is probable, from what has been already said relative to the bishop

of Adran, that the French have introduced these improvements, into the

island, for the purpose of making it a more convenient refreshing

station for any of their ships that may be bound for Cambodia, or Cochin

China. Should they have made, or intend to make, any settlement in those

countries, it is certainly well situated for that purpose, or for

annoying the trade of their enemies, in case of war.

Our sportsmen were very unsuccessful in their pursuit of the feathered

game, with which the woods are well stocked. One of our gentlemen had

the good fortune to shoot a wild hen; and all the shooting parties

agreed that they heard the crowing of the cocks on every side, which

they described to be like that of our common cock, but shriller; that

they saw several of them on the wing, but that they were exceedingly

shy. The hen that was shot was of a speckled colour, and of the same

shape, though not quite so large, as a full grown pullet of this

country. Monsieur Sonnerat has entered into a long dissertation, to

prove that he was the first person who determined the country to which

this most beautiful and useful bird belongs, and denies that Dampier met

with it here.

The land in the neighbourhood of the harbour is a continued high hill,

richly adorned with a variety of fine tall trees, from the summit to the

water’s edge. Among others, we observed what Dampier calls the

tar-tree[83]; but observed none that were tapped in the manner he

describes.

The inhabitants, who are fugitives from Cambodia and Cochin China, are

not numerous. They are of a short stature, and very swarthy, and of a

weak and unhealthy aspect; but, as far as we could judge, of a gentle

disposition.

We remained here till the 28th of January; and, at taking leave of the

_Mandarin_, Captain Gore, at his own request, gave him a letter of

recommendation to the commanders of any other ships that might put in

here; to which he added a handsome present. He likewise gave him a

letter for the bishop of Adran, together with a telescope, which he

begged might be presented to him as a compliment for the services he had

received through his means at Condore.

The harbour at Pulo Condore is in latitude 8° 40ʹ 00ʺ N.

Longitude, deduced from a great number of

lunar observations, 106 18 46 E.

Dip of the north pole of the magnetic needle, 2 1 0

Variation of the compass, 0 14 0 W.

High water at the full and change of the moon, 4^h 16^m apparent

time.

From this time, the water continued for twelve hours without any visible

alteration, viz. till 16^h 15^m apparent time, when it began to ebb; and

at 22^h 15^m apparent time, it was low water. The change from ebbing to

flowing was very quick, or in less than 5^m. The water rose and fell

seven feet four inches perpendicular; and every day the same whilst we

continued there.

CHAP. XI.

DEPARTURE FROM PULO CONDORE.—PASS THE STRAITS OF BANCA.—VIEW OF THE

ISLAND OF SUMATRA.—STRAITS OF SUNDA.—OCCURRENCES THERE.—DESCRIPTION OF

THE ISLAND OF CRACATOA.—PRINCE’S ISLAND.—EFFECTS OF THE CLIMATE OF

JAVA.—RUN TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.—TRANSACTIONS THERE.—DESCRIPTION OF

FALSE BAY.—PASSAGE TO THE ORKNEYS.—GENERAL REFLECTIONS.

On the 28th day of January 1780, we unmoored; and, as soon as we were

clear of the harbour, steered south south-west for Pulo Timoan. On the

30th, at noon, the latitude, by observation, being 5° 0ʹ N., and

longitude 104° 45ʹ E. we altered our course to south three quarters

west, having a moderate breeze from the north-east, accompanied by fair

weather. At two in the morning of the 31st, we had soundings of

forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of fine white sand; at which time our

latitude was 4° 4ʹ N., longitude 104° 29ʹ E., and the variation of the

compass 0° 31ʹ E.

At one in the afternoon, we saw Pulo Timoan; and, at three, it bore

south south-west, three quarters west, distant ten miles. This island is

high and woody, and has several small ones lying off to the westward. At

five, Pulo Puisang was seen bearing south by east three quarters east;

and, at nine, the weather being thick and hazy, and having out-run our

reckoning from the effect of some current, we were close upon Pulo Aor,

in latitude 2° 46ʹ N., longitude 104° 37ʹ E., before we were well aware

of it, which obliged us to haul the wind to the east south-east. We kept

this course till midnight, and then bore away south south-east for the

Straits of Banca.

On the 1st of February, at noon, our latitude, by observation, was 1°

20ʹ N., and the longitude, deduced from a great number of lunar

observations taken in the course of the preceding twelve hours, 105° E.

At the same time, the longitude, by Mr. Bayly’s time-keeper, corrected,

was 105° 15ʹ E. We now steered south by east; and, at sun-set, having

fine clear weather, saw Pulo Panjang; the body of the island bearing

west north-west, and the small islands, lying on the south-east of it,

west half south, seven leagues distant. Our latitude, at this time, was

0° 53ʹ N.

On the 2d, at eight in the morning, we tried for soundings, continuing

to do the same every hour, till we had passed the Straits of Sunda, and

found the bottom with twenty-three fathoms of line. At noon, being in

latitude, by observation, 0° 22ʹ S., longitude 105° 14ʹ E., and our

soundings twenty fathoms, we came in sight of the little islands called

Dominis, which lie off the eastern part of Lingen; and which bore from

north 62° W., to north 80° W., five leagues distant. At this time we

passed a great deal of wood, drifting on the sea; and, at one o’clock,

we saw Pulo Taya, bearing south-west by west, distant seven leagues. It

is a small high island, with two round peaks, and two detached rocks

lying off it to the northward. When abreast of this island, we had

soundings of fifteen fathoms. During this and the preceding day, we saw

great quantities of a reddish coloured scum or spawn, floating on the

water, in a southerly direction.

At day-light, on the 3d, we came in sight of the Three Islands; and,

soon after, of Monopin Hill, on the island of Banca. At noon, this hill,

which forms the north-east point of the entrance of the Straits, bore

south-east half south, distant six leagues; our latitude, by

observation, being 1° 48ʹ S., and longitude 105° 3ʹ E., the soundings

seventeen fathoms, and no perceivable variation in the compass.

Having got to the westward of the shoal, called Frederick Endric, at

half past two we entered the Straits, and bore away to the southward;

and, in the afternoon, Monopin Hill bearing due east, we determined its

latitude to be 2° 3ʹ S., the same as in Mons. D’Après’ map, and its

longitude 105° 18ʹ E. At nine, a boat came off from the Banca shore, and

having rowed round the ships, went away again. We hailed her in the

Malay tongue to come on board, but received no answer. At midnight,

finding a strong tide against us, we anchored in twelve fathoms, Monopin

Hill bearing north 29° W.

On the 4th, in the morning, after experiencing some difficulty in

weighing our anchors, owing to the stiff tenacious quality of the

ground, we proceeded with the tide down the Straits; the little wind we

had from the northward dying away as the day advanced. At noon, there

being a perfect calm, and the tide making against us, we dropt our

anchor in thirteen fathoms’ water, about three miles from what is called

the Third Point, on the Sumatra, shore; Monopin Hill bearing N. 54° W.

The latitude, by observation, was 2° 22ʹ S., longitude 105° 38ʹ E. At

three, in the afternoon, we weighed and stood on through the Straits

with a light breeze; and, at eight, were abreast of the second point,

and passed it within two miles, in seventeen fathoms’ water, a

sufficient proof, that this point may be bordered upon with safety. At

midnight, we again came to anchor, on account of the tide, in thirteen

fathoms, Mount Permissang, on the island of Banca, bearing N. 7° E., and

the First Point S. 54° E., distant about three leagues.

In the morning of the 5th, we weighed, and kept on to the south-east;

and, at ten, passed a small shoal, lying in a line with Lusepara and the

First Point, at the distance of five miles from the latter. At noon, the

island of Lusepara, bearing S. 57-1/2° E., four miles distant, we

determined its latitude to be 3° 10-1/2ʹ S., and longitude 106° 15ʹ E.

The difference of longitude between the island Lusepara, which lies in

the south entrance of the Straits of Banca, and Monopin Hill, which

forms one side of the entrance from the north, we found to be 55ʹ, which

is only two miles less than what is given in D’Après’ chart.

In passing these Straits, the coast of Sumatra may be approached

somewhat closer than that of Banca. At the distance of two or three

miles from the shore, there are ten, eleven, twelve, or thirteen

fathoms, free from rocks or shoals; however, the lead is the surest

guide. The country is covered with wood down to the water’s edge, and

the shores are so low, that the sea overflows the land, and washes the

trunks of the trees. To this flat and marshy situation of the shore, we

may attribute those thick fogs and vapours, which we perceived every

morning, not without dread and horror, hanging over the island, till

they were dispersed by the rays of the sun. The shores of Banca are much

bolder, and the country inland rises to a moderate height, and appears

to be well wooded throughout. We often saw fires on this island during

the night time; but none on the opposite shore. The tide runs through

the Straits at the rate of between two and three knots an hour.

In the morning of the 6th, we passed to the westward of Lusepara, at the

distance of four or five miles; generally carrying soundings of five and

six fathoms’ water, and never less than four. We afterward steered south

by east; and having brought Lusepara to bear due north, and deepened our

water to seven fathoms, we altered our course to south by west, keeping

the lead going, and hauling out a little, whenever we shoaled our water.

The soundings on the Sumatra side we still found to be regular, and

gradually shoaling, as we approached the shore. At five in the afternoon

we saw the Three Sisters, bearing south by west half west; and, at

seven, we came to an anchor in ten fathoms, about eight miles to the

north of the islands. The weather was close and sultry, with light

winds, generally from the north-west; but sometimes varying round as far

as the north-east; and, during the night, we observed much lightning

over Sumatra.

We weighed the next morning at five, and at eight were close in with the

Sisters. These are two very small islands, well covered with wood, lying

in latitude 5° 0-1/2ʹ S., longitude 106° 12ʹ E., nearly north and south

from each other, and surrounded by a reef of coral rocks; the whole

circumference of which is about four or five miles. At noon we got sight

of the island of Java to the southward; the north-west extremity of

which (Cape St. Nicholas) bore south; North Island, on the Sumatra

shore, S. 27° W., and the Sisters north, 27° E., distant four leagues;

our latitude was 5° 21ʹ S., longitude 105° 57ʹ E.

At four in the afternoon, we saw two sail in the Straits of Sundy; one

lying at anchor near the Mid-channel Island; the other nearer the Java

shore. Not knowing to what nation they might belong, we cleared our

ships for action; and at six came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms,

four miles east by south from North Island. Here we lay all night, and

had very heavy thunder and lightning to the north-west; from which

quarter the wind blew in light breezes, accompanied with hard rain.

At eight o’clock the next morning, we weighed, and proceeded through the

Straits, the tide setting to the southward, as it had done all night;

but about ten the breeze failing, we came to again in thirty-five

fathoms; a high island, or rather rock, called the Grand Toque, bearing

south by east. We were, at this time, not more than two miles from the

ships, which now hoisting Dutch colours, Captain Gore sent a boat on

board for intelligence. The rain still continued with thunder and

lightning.

Early in the afternoon, the boat returned with an account that the large

ship was a Dutch East-Indiaman, bound for Europe; and the other a packet

from Batavia, with orders for the several ships lying in the Straits. It

is the custom for the Dutch ships, as soon as their lading is nearly

completed, to leave Batavia, on account of its extreme unwholesomeness,

and proceed to some of the more healthy islands in the Straits, where

they wait for the remainder of their cargo, and their dispatches.

Notwithstanding this precaution, the Indiaman had lost, since her

departure from Batavia, four men, and had as many more whose recovery

was despaired of. She had lain here a fortnight, and was now about to

proceed to water at Cracatoa, having just received final orders by the

packet.

At seven in the morning of the 9th, we weighed, and stood on through the

Straits to the south-west, keeping pretty close in with the islands on

the Sumatra shore, in order to avoid a rock near Mid-channel Island,

which lay on our left. At half after ten, I received orders from Captain

Gore to make sail toward a Dutch ship which now hove in sight to the

southward, and which we supposed to be from Europe; and, according to

the nature of the intelligence we could procure from her, either to join

him at Cracatoa, where he intended to stop, for the purpose of supplying

the ships with arrack, or to proceed to the south-east end of Prince’s

Island, and there take in our water, and wait for him.

I accordingly bore down toward the Dutch ship, which, soon after, came

to an anchor to the eastward; when the wind slackening, and the current

still setting very strong through the strait to the south-west, we found

it impossible to fetch her, and having, therefore, got as near her as

the tide would permit, we also dropped anchor. I immediately dispatched

Mr. Williamson, in the cutter, with orders to get on board her if

possible; but as she lay near a mile off, and the tide ran with great

rapidity, we soon perceived, that the boat was dropping fast astern. We

therefore made the signal to return, and immediately began to veer away

the cable, and sent out a buoy astern, in order to assist him in getting

on board again. Our poverty, in the article of cordage, was here very

conspicuous; for we had not a single coil of rope, in the store-room, to

fix to the buoy, but were obliged to set about unreeving the

studding-sail gear, the top-sail-halliards, and tackle-falls, for that

purpose; and the boat was at this time driving to the southward so fast,

that it was not before we had veered away two cables, and almost all our

running rigging, that she could fetch the buoy.

I was now under the necessity of waiting till the strength of the tide

should abate, which did not happen till the next morning, when Mr.

Williamson got on board the ship, and learnt, that she had been seven

months from Europe, and three from the Cape of Good Hope; that before

she sailed, France and Spain had declared war against Great Britain; and

that she left Sir Edward Hughes, with a squadron of men-of-war, and a

fleet of East-India ships, at the Cape. Mr. Williamson having, at the

same time, been informed, that the water at Cracatoa was very good, and

always preferred, by the Dutch ships, to that of Prince’s Island, I

resolved to rejoin the Resolution at the former place; and a fair breeze

springing up, we weighed and stood over toward the island, where we soon

after saw her at anchor; but the wind falling, and the tide setting

strong against us, I was obliged to drop anchor, at the distance of

about five miles from the Resolution, and immediately sent a boat on

board, to acquaint Captain Gore with the intelligence we had received.

As soon as the Resolution saw us preparing to come to, she fired her

guns, and hoisted an English jack at the ensign staff, the signal at sea

to lead ahead. This we afterward understood was intended to prevent our

anchoring, on account of the foul ground, which the maps she had on

board placed here. However, as we found none, having a muddy bottom, and

good holding ground, in sixty fathoms water, we kept fast till the

return of the boat, which brought orders to proceed the next morning to

Prince’s Island. We were at this time two miles distant from the shore;

the peak of Cracatoa bore north-west by north; Bantam Point east

north-east half east; Prince’s Island south-west by west.

The island of Cracatoa is the southernmost of a group situated in the

entrance of the Straits of Sunda. It has a high-peaked hill on the south

end[84], which lies in latitude 6° 9ʹ S., and longitude 105° 15ʹ E.; the

whole circuit of the island is not more than three leagues. Off the

north-east end lies a small island, which forms the road where the

Resolution anchored; and within a reef that runs off the south end of

the latter, there is good shelter against all northerly winds, with

eighteen fathoms water near the reef, and twenty-seven in the

mid-channel. To the north-west, there is a narrow pass for boats between

the two islands.

The shore, which forms the western side of the road, is in a north-west

direction, and has a bank of coral stretching into the sea, about one

third of a cable’s length, which makes the landing difficult for boats,

except at high water; but the anchoring ground is very good, and free

from rocks. The place where the Resolution watered is a small spring,

situated abreast of the south end of the small island, at a short

distance from the water-side. A little to the southward, there is a very

hot spring, which is used by the natives as a bath. Whilst we were lying

off the south end of this island, we sent a boat with the Master on

shore, to look for water; but after having landed with some difficulty,

he returned unsuccessful.

Cracatoa is esteemed very healthy, in comparison of the neighbouring

countries. It consists of high land, rising gradually on all sides from

the sea; and the whole is covered with trees, except a few spots which

the natives have cleared for rice fields. The number of people on the

island is very inconsiderable. Their chief, as are those of all the

other islands in the Straits, is subject to the king of Bantam. The

coral reefs afford plenty of small turtles; but other refreshments are

very scarce, and sold at an enormous price.

Latitude of the road where the Resolution

anchored, 8° 6ʹ south.

Longitude, by Mr. Bayly’s time-keeper, 104 48 east.

Ditto, by observation 105 36 east.

Dip of the south end of the magnetic needle 26 3

Variation of the compass, 1 0 west.

On the full and change days, it is high-water at 7^h in the morning. The

water rises three feet two inches perpendicular.

At eight o’clock in the evening, it began to blow fresh from the

westward, with violent thunder, lightning, and rain; and at three the

next morning, we weighed and stood over for Prince’s Island, but the

westerly wind dying away, was succeeded by a breeze from the south-east,

and, at the same time, a strong tide setting to the south-west prevented

our fetching the island, and obliged us, at two in the afternoon, to

drop anchor in sixty-five fathoms, over a muddy bottom, at three leagues

distance from it; the high hill bearing south-west by south, and the

peak on Cracatoa north by east. We had light airs and calms till six

next morning, when we weighed and made sail, having, in our endeavours

to heave the anchor out of the ground, twice broken the old messenger,

and afterward a new one, cut out of our best hawser. This, however, was

entirely owing to the wretched state of our cordage, as the strain was

not very considerable, and we had besides assisted the cable in coming

in, by clapping the cat-tackle on it. The wind continuing fair, at noon

we came to an anchor off the south-east end of Prince’s Island, in

twenty-six fathoms, over a sandy bottom; the east end of the island

bearing north north-east, the southernmost point in sight south-west by

south, the high peak north-west half west, distant from the nearest

shore half a mile.

As soon as we had come to anchor, Lieutenant Lannyon, who had been here

before with Captain Cook, in the year 1770 was sent along with the

master, to look for the watering-place. The brook from which, according

to the best of his recollection, the Endeavour had been supplied, was

found quite salt. Further inland, they saw a dry bed, where the water

seemed to have lodged in rainy seasons; and, about a cable’s length

below, another run, supplied from an extensive pool, the bottom of

which, as well as the surface, was covered with dead leaves. This,

though a little brackish, being much preferable to the other, we began

watering here early the next morning, and finished the same day.

The natives, who came to us soon after we anchored, brought a plentiful

supply of large fowls, and some turtles; but the last were for the most

part very small. In the course of the night we had heavy rain; and on

the 14th, at day-light, we saw the Resolution to the northward, standing

toward the island, and at two in the afternoon, she dropt anchor close

to us. In the course of the day, we heeled the ship, and scrubbed and

hogged her bottom, which was very foul; and got ready for sea.

The next day, Captain Gore not having completed his stock of water at

Cracatoa, sent his men on shore, who now found the brook that was first

mentioned, rendered perfectly sweet by the rain, and flowing in great

abundance. This being too valuable a treasure to be neglected, I gave

orders, that all the casks we had filled before should be started, and

replenished with the fresh water, which was accordingly done before noon

the next day; and in the evening, we cleared the decks, and both ships

were ready for sea.

In the forenoon of the 18th, we had heavy rains, and variable winds,

which prevented our getting under weigh till two in the afternoon, when

a light wind sprung up from the northward; but this soon after leaving

us, we were obliged to drop our anchor again at eight o’clock that

night, in fifty fathoms’ water, and wait till the same hour the next

morning. At that time, being favoured by a breeze from the north-west,

we broke ground, to our inexpressible satisfaction, for the last time in

the Straits of Sunda, and, the next day, had entirely lost sight of

Prince’s Island.

This island having been already described by Captain Cook, in the

history of a former voyage, I shall only add, that we were exceedingly

struck with the great general resemblance of the natives, both in

figure, colour, manners, and even language, to the nations we had been

so much conversant with, in the South Seas. The effects of the Javanese

climate, and I did not escape without my full share of it, made me

incapable of pursuing the comparison so minutely as I could have wished.

The country abounds with wood to such a degree, that notwithstanding the

quantity cut down every year by the ships which put into the road, there

is no appearance of its diminution. We were well supplied with small

turtle and fowls of a moderate size; the last were sold at the rate of

ten for a Spanish dollar. The natives also brought us many hog-deer, and

a prodigious number of monkeys, to our great annoyance, as most of our

sailors provided themselves with one, if not two of these troublesome

animals.

As we should have met with some difficulty in finding the

watering-place, if Mr. Lannyon had not been with us, it may be worth

while, for the use of future navigators, to describe its situation more

particularly. The peaked hill on the island bears from it north-west by

north; a remarkable tree growing upon a coral reef, and quite detached

from the neighbouring shrubs, stands just to the northward; and, close

by it, there is a small plot of reedy grass, the only piece of the kind

that can be seen hereabout. These marks will show the place where the

pool empties itself into the sea; but the water here is generally salt

as well as that which is in the pool. The casks must, therefore, be

filled about fifty yards higher up; where, in dry seasons, the fresh

water that comes down from the hills is lost among the leaves, and must

be searched for by clearing them away.

The latitude of the anchoring-place } 6° 36ʹ 15ʺ S.

at Prince’s Island was, }

Longitude, 105 17 30 E.

Dip of the south pole of the } 28 15 0

magnetic needle, }

Variation of the compass, 0 54 0 W.

Mean of the thermometer, 83 0-1/2 0

From the time of our entering the Straits of Banca, we began to

experience the powerful effects of this pestilential climate. Two of our

people fell dangerously ill of malignant putrid fevers; which, however,

we prevented from spreading, by putting the patients apart from the

rest, in the most airy births. Many were attacked with teazing coughs;

others complained of violent pains in the head; and even the healthiest

among us felt a sensation of suffocating heat, attended by an

insufferable languor, and a total loss of appetite. But though our

situation was, for a time, thus uneasy and alarming, we had, at last,

the singular satisfaction of escaping from these fatal seas without the

loss of a single life; a circumstance which was probably owing in part

to the vigorous health of the crews when we first arrived here, as well

as to the strict attention now become habitual in our men, to the

salutary regulations introduced amongst us by Captain Cook.

On our leaving Prince’s Island, and during the whole time of our run

from thence to the Cape of Good Hope, the crew of the Resolution was in

a much more sickly state than that of the Discovery; for, though many of

us continued for some time complaining of the effects of the noxious

climate we had left, yet happily we all recovered from them. Of the two

who had been ill of fevers, one, after being seized with violent

convulsions on the 12th of February, which made us despair of his life,

was relieved by the application of blisters, and was soon after out of

danger. The other recovered, but more slowly. On board the Resolution,

besides the obstinate coughs and fevers under which they very generally

laboured, a great many were afflicted with fluxes, the number of whom,

contrary to our expectations, continued increasing till our arrival at

the Cape.

Captain Gore attributed this difference in part, and probably with some

reason, to the Discovery having her fire-place between decks; the heat

and smoke of which he conceived might help to mitigate the bad effects

of the damp night air. But I am rather inclined to believe that we

escaped the flux by the precautions that were taken to prevent our

catching it from others. For if some kinds of fluxes be, as I apprehend

there is no doubt they are, contagious, it is not improbable that the

Resolution caught this disorder from the Dutch ships at Cracatoa. In

order to avoid this danger, when Mr. Williamson was sent to the Indiaman

in the entrance of the Straits of Sunda, he had the strictest orders not

to suffer any of our people, on any account whatever, to go on board;

and whenever we had afterward occasion to have any communication with

the Resolution, the same caution was constantly observed.

We were no sooner clear of Prince’s Island, than we had a gentle breeze

from the west north-west; but this did not last long; for the following

day the wind became again variable, and continued so till the noon of

the 25th, when it blew squally, and blew fresh from the north.

On the 22d at noon, being in latitude 10° 28ʹ S., and longitude 104°

14ʹ, we saw great quantities of boobies and other fowls that seldom go

far from land; from which, we conjectured that we were near some small

unknown island.

In the evening of the 25th, the wind changed suddenly to the southward,

accompanied with heavy rains, and began to blow with great violence.

During the night, almost every sail we had bent gave way, and most of

them were split to rags; our rigging also suffered materially, and we

were, the next day, obliged to bend our last suit of sails, and to knot

and splice the rigging, our cordage being all expended. This sudden

storm we attributed to the change from the monsoon to the regular

trade-wind; our latitude was about 13° 10ʹ S. and we had made by our

reckoning about 4-1/2° of longitude west from Java head.

From the 26th of this month to the 28th of March, we had a regular

trade-wind from the south-east to east by south, with fine weather; and,

being in an old beaten track, met no occurrence that deserved the

smallest notice.

In the morning of the 28th of March, being in latitude 31° 42ʹ S., and

longitude 35° 26ʹ E., the trade-wind left us in a violent thunder-storm.

From this time to the 3d of April, when our latitude was 35° 1ʹ S., and

longitude 26° 3ʹ E. the winds were moderate, and generally from the

south quarter. A fresh breeze then sprung up from the eastward, which

continued till the afternoon of the 4th; after which, we had a calm that

lasted the two following days.

It had hitherto been Captain Gore’s intention to proceed directly to St.

Helena, without stopping at the Cape; but the rudder of the Resolution

having been for some time complaining, and, on being examined, reported

to be in a dangerous state, he resolved to steer immediately for the

Cape, as the most eligible place, both for the recovery of his sick, and

for procuring a new main-piece to the rudder.

From the 21st of March, when we were in latitude 27° 22ʹ S., longitude

52° 25ʹ E., to the 5th of April, when we had got into latitude 36° 12ʹ

S., longitude 22° 7ʹ E., we were strongly affected by the currents,

which set to the south south-west, and south-west by west, sometimes at

the rate of eighty knots a day. On the 6th, having got under the lee of

the African coast, we lost them entirely.

In the morning of the 6th, a sail was seen to the south-west standing

toward us; and, as the wind soon after rose from the same quarter, we

cleared our ships for action. We now discovered, from the mast-head,

five sail more on our lee-bow, standing to the eastward; but the weather

coming on hazy, we lost sight of them all in an hour’s time. Our

latitude at noon was 35° 49ʹ S., longitude 21° 32ʹ E. At seven o’clock

the next morning (the seventh), we made the land to the northward at a

considerable distance.

On the 8th, the weather was squally, and blew fresh from the north-west;

the following day it settled to the west, and we passed pretty close to

the sail seen on the 6th, but did not hail her. She was clumsy in

figure, and, to appearance, unskilfully managed; yet she out-sailed us

exceedingly. The colours which she hoisted were different from any we

had seen; some supposed them to be Portugueze, others Imperial.

At day-light the next morning, the land again appeared to the north

north-west, and, in the forenoon, a snow was seen bearing down to us,

which proved to be an English East-India packet, that had left Table Bay

three days before, and was cruizing with orders for the China fleet, and

other India ships. She told us, that about three weeks before, Mons.

Trongoller’s squadron, consisting of six ships, had sailed from the

Cape, and was gone to cruize off St. Helena, for our East-India fleet.

This intelligence made us conjecture, that the five sail we had seen

standing to the eastward must have been the French squadron, who, in

that case, had given over their cruize, and were probably proceeding to

the Mauritius. Having informed the packet of our conjectures, and also

of the time we understood the China ships were to sail from Canton, we

left them, and proceeded toward the Cape.

In the evening of the 10th, the Gunner’s Quoin bore north by east, and

False Cape east north-east; but the wind being at south-west, and

variable, prevented our getting into False Bay, till the evening of the

12th, when we dropt anchor abreast of Simon’s Bay. We found a strong

current setting to the westward, round the Cape, which, for some time,

we could but just stem, with a breeze that would have carried us four

knots an hour. The next morning, we stood into Simon’s Bay; and at eight

came to anchor, and moored a cable each way; the best bower to the east

south-east, and small bower west north-west; the south-east point of the

bay bearing south by east, Table Mountain north-east half north; distant

from the nearest shore one-third of a mile. We found lying here, the

Nassau and Southampton East-Indiamen, waiting for convoy for Europe. The

Resolution saluted the fort with eleven guns, and the same number was

returned.

Mr. Brandt, the governor of this place, came to visit us, as soon as we

had anchored. This gentleman had conceived a great affection for Captain

Cook, who had been his constant guest, the many times he had visited the

Cape; and though he had received the news of his melancholy fate some

time before, he was exceedingly affected at the sight of our ships

returning without their old commander. He appeared much surprized to see

our crew in so stout and healthy a condition, as the Dutch ship that had

left Macao on our arrival there, and had touched at the Cape some time

before, reported, that we were in a most wretched state, having only

fourteen hands left on board the Resolution, and seven on board the

Discovery. It is not easy to conceive the motive these people could have

had for propagating so wanton and malicious a falsehood.

On the 15th, I accompanied Captain Gore to Cape Town; and the next

morning, we waited on Baron Plettenberg, the governor, by whom we were

received with every possible attention and civility. He had also

conceived a great personal affection for Captain Cook, as well as the

highest admiration of his character, and heard the recital of his

misfortune, with many expressions of unaffected sorrow. In one of the

principal apartments of the governor’s house, he shewed us two pictures,

of Van Tromp and De Ruyter, with a vacant space left between them, which

he said he meant to fill up with the portrait of Captain Cook; and for

that purpose, he requested our assistance when we should arrive in

England, in purchasing one for him, at any price.

We were afterward informed by the governor, that all the powers at this

time at war with England had given orders to their cruizers to let us

pass unmolested. This, as far as related to the French, we had

sufficient reason to think true; as Mr. Brandt had already delivered to

Captain Gore, a letter from Mr. Stephens, inclosing a copy of Mons. de

Sartine’s orders, taken on board the Licorne. With respect to the

Americans, the matter still rested on report; but Baron Plettenberg

assured us, that he had been expressly told, by the commander of a

Spanish ship, which had touched at the Cape, that he, and all the

officers of his nation, had received orders to the same effect. These

assurances confirmed Captain Gore in the resolution he had taken, of

maintaining on his part, a neutral conduct; and accordingly, when, on

the arrival of the Sybil, to convoy the India ships home, it was

proposed to him to accompany them on their passage, he thought proper to

decline an offer, the acceptance of which might, in case we had fallen

in with any of the enemies’ ships, have brought him into a very

difficult and embarrassing situation.

During our stay at the Cape, we met with every proof of the most

friendly disposition toward us, both in the governor and principal

persons of the place, as well Africans as Europeans. At our first

arrival, Colonel Gordon, the commander of the Dutch forces, with whom,

on our former visit here, I had the happiness of being on a footing of

intimacy and friendship, was absent on a journey into the interior parts

of Africa, but returned before our departure. He had, on this occasion,

penetrated farther up the country than any other traveller had done

before him, and made great additions to the valuable collection of

natural curiosities with which he has enriched the Museum of the Prince

of Orange. Indeed, a long residence at the Cape, and the powerful

assistance he has derived from his rank and situation there, joined to

an active and indefatigable spirit, and an eager thirst after knowledge,

have enabled him to acquire a more intimate and perfect knowledge of

this part of Africa than could have fallen to the lot of any other

person; and it is with great pleasure I can congratulate the public on

the information I have received of his intentions to give the world,

from his own hand, a history of his travels.

False Bay, situated to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope, is

frequented by shipping during the prevalence of the north-west winds,

which begin to blow in May, and make it dangerous to lie in Table Bay.

It is terminated on the west by the Cape of Good Hope, and on the

eastward by False Cape.

The entrance of the bay is six leagues wide, the two capes bearing from

each other due east and west. About eleven miles from the Cape of Good

Hope, on the west side, is situated Simon’s Bay, the only convenient

station for ships to lie in; for although the road without it affords

good anchorage, it is too open, and but ill circumstanced for procuring

necessaries, the town being small, and supplied with provisions from

Cape Town, which is about twenty-four miles distant. To the north

north-east of Simon’s Bay there are several others, from which it may be

easily distinguished, by a remarkable sandy way to the northward of the

town, which makes a striking object. In steering for the harbour, along

the west shore, there is a small flat rock, called Noah’s Ark; and,

about a mile to the north-east of it, several others, called the Roman

Rocks. These lie one mile and a half from the anchoring place; and

either between them, or to the northward of the Roman Rocks, there is a

safe passage into the bay. When the north-west gales are set in, the

following bearings will direct the mariner to a safe and commodious

birth; Noah’s Ark, S. 51° E., and the centre of the hospital S. 53° W.

in seven fathoms. But if the south-east winds have not done blowing, it

is better to stay further out in eight or nine fathoms. The bottom is

sandy, and the anchors settle considerably before they get hold. All the

north part of the bay is low sandy land, but the east side is very high.

About six miles east of Noah’s Ark lies Seal Island, the south part of

which is said to be dangerous, and not to be approached, with safety,

nearer than in twenty-two fathoms. Off the Cape of Good Hope, are many

sunk rocks, some of which appear at low water; and others have breakers

constantly on them.

The latitude of the anchoring-place in Simon’s

Bay, by observation, 34° 20ʹ S.

The longitude, 18 29 E.

Dip of the south end of the magnetic needle, 46 47

Variation of the compass, 22 16 W.

On the full and change days, it was high-water at 5^h 55^m apparent

time; the tide rose and fell five feet five inches; at the neap tides,

it rose four feet one inch.

From the observations taken by Mr. Bayly and myself, on the 11th of this

month, when the Cape of Good Hope bore due west, we found its latitude

to be 34° 23ʹ S., which is 4ʹ to the northward of its position, as

determined by the Abbé de la Caille.

Having completed our victualling, and furnished ourselves with the

necessary supply of naval stores, we sailed out of the bay on the 9th of

May, and on the 14th we got into the south-east trade-wind, and steered

to the westward of the islands of St. Helena and Ascension. On the 31st,

being in latitude 12° 48ʹ S., longitude 15° 40ʹ W., the magnetic needle

was found to have no dip.

On the 12th of June, we passed the equator for the fourth time during

this voyage, in longitude 26° 16ʹ W. We now began to perceive the

effects of a current setting north by east, half a knot an hour. It

continued in this direction till the middle of July, when it began to

set a little to the southward of the west.

On the 12th of August, we made the western coast of Ireland, and, after

a fruitless attempt to get into Port Galway, from whence it was Captain

Gore’s intention to have sent the journals and maps of our voyage to

London, we were obliged, by strong southerly winds, to steer to the

northward. Our next object was to put into Lough Swilly; but the wind

continuing in the same quarter, we stood on to the northward of Lewis

Island; and on the 22d of August, at eleven in the morning, both ships

came to an anchor at Stromness. From hence, I was dispatched by Captain

Gore, to acquaint the Board of Admiralty with our arrival; and on the

4th day of October the ships arrived safe at the Nore, after an absence

of four years, two months, and twenty-two days.

On quitting the Discovery at Stromness, I had the satisfaction of

leaving the whole crew in perfect health; and at the same time, the

number of convalescents on board the Resolution, did not exceed two or

three, of whom only one was incapable of service. In the course of our

voyage, the Resolution lost but five men by sickness, three of whom were

in a precarious state of health at our departure from England; the

Discovery did not lose a man. An unremitting attention to the

regulations established by Captain Cook, with which the world is already

acquainted, may be justly considered as the principal cause, under the

blessing of Divine Providence, of this singular success. But the baneful

effects of salt provisions might perhaps, in the end, have been felt,

notwithstanding these salutary precautions, if we had not assisted them,

by availing ourselves of every substitute, our situation at various

times afforded. These frequently consisting of articles which our people

had not been used to consider as food for men, and being sometimes

exceedingly nauseous, it required the joint aid of persuasion,

authority, and example to conquer their prejudices and disgusts.

The preventives we principally relied on were sour krout and portable

soup. As to the anti-scorbutic remedies, with which we were amply

supplied, we had no opportunity of trying their effects, as there did

not appear the slightest symptoms of the scurvy, in either ship, during

the whole voyage. Our malt and hops had also been kept as a resource, in

case of actual sickness, and on examination at the Cape of Good Hope,

were found entirely spoiled. About the same time, were opened some casks

of biscuit, flour, malt, peas, oatmeal, and grots, which, by way of

experiment, had been put up in small casks, lined with tinfrail, and

found all, except the peas, in a much better state than could have been

expected, in the usual manner of package.

I cannot neglect this opportunity of recommending to the consideration

of government, the necessity of allowing a sufficient quantity of

Peruvian bark, to such of his majesty’s ships as may be exposed to the

influence of unwholesome climates. It happened very fortunately in the

Discovery, that only one of the men that had fevers in the Straits of

Sunda, stood in need of this medicine, as he alone consumed the whole

quantity usually carried out by surgeons, in such vessels as ours. Had

more been affected in the same manner, they would probably all have

perished, from the want of the only remedy capable of affording them

effectual relief.

Another circumstance attending this voyage, which, if we consider its

duration, and the nature of the service in which we were engaged, will

appear scarcely less singular than the extraordinary healthiness of the

crews, was, that the two ships never lost sight of each other for a day

together, except twice; which was owing, the first time, to an accident

that happened to the Discovery off the coast of Owhyhee; and the second,

to the fogs we met with at the entrance of Awatska Bay. A stronger proof

cannot be given of the skill and vigilance of our subaltern officers, to

whom this share of merit almost entirely belongs.

APPENDIX.

VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS, MAY, &C. 1777.

_Friendly Isles._ English.

Ve faine, _A woman_.

Maiee, _Bread-fruit_.

Fukkatou, _Barter_.

Woa, _Admiration_.

My, fogge, _Good_.

Attahoa, _A bead_; _a necklace_.

Koehaa, _or_ Kohaeea? _What is that_? or _what is the

name of it_?

Magoo, _Give me_.

Le laiee, _Good_.

Hou, _Come here_.

Moree, _A shaddock_.

Omee, _Give me_.

Hobba, _A sort of plantain_.

Koajee, _or_ Kaoojee, _Done_; _finished_.

Koeea, _Yes_; _it is so_.

Amou, _Got_; _to hold fast_.

Horo, horo, _A handkerchief_ or _wiper_.

Ongofooroo, _Ten_.

Gehai, _or_ geefai, _There_; and _that_.

Kato, _A basket_.

Egeeai, _A mat they wear round them_.

Fooroo, _or_ fooloo, _Hair_.

Fooee vy, _The leg_.

Tooa vy, _Upper part of the foot_.

Fooloo, fooloo, matta, _The eye-brow_.

Emamae, _Pointed plantains_.

Evatta vatta, _The breast_.

Eboore, Ditto.

Etooa, _The back_.

Erongootoo, _The lips_.

Elelo, _The tongue_.

Edainga, _The thigh_.

Eraimoo, _The hips_.

Evae, veene, _The arm-pit_.

Too, _The finger_

Vakka, vakka, _The side_.

Hekaite, _The belly_.

Tareenga, _The ear_.

Horo, _To wipe_.

Kouta, _Beating with two sticks_.

Fangoo, fangoo, _A flute_.

Motoo, _To break_.

Koooma, _Burnt circular marks_.

Taffa, _Raised marks burnt_.

Kowy, _The cheeks_.

Koomoo, koomoo, _The beard_.

Peeto, _The navel_.

Eoo, _The nipple_.

Etarre, _To cough_.

Hengatoe, _Cloth_.

Efangoo, _To sneeze_.

Eanoo, _To spit_.

Etoogee, _To beat_ or _strike_.

Etooee, _The elbow_.

Efeelo, _A small rope_, or _thread_.

Haro, _or_ halo, _Go_; _begone_.

Egeea, _The throat_.

Eky, _To eat_, or _chew_.

Evagoo, _To scratch_.

Ma matta, _Let me look_, or _see_.

Egeea, _The neck_.

Enofoa, haioo, _A seat._

Etoo, _To rise up_.

Mamao, _To yawn_.

Ehappe, _A box_, or _chest_.

Moe, _or_ mohe, _Sleep_.

Tangooroo, _To snore_.

Ekatta, _To laugh_.

Akka, _To kick_, or _stamp_.

Feedjee, _A fillup_.

Ekakava, _Sweat_.

Eeoho, _To hollow_, or _cry_.

Epooo, _A post_, or _staunchion_.

Etolle, _A hatchet_.

Maalava, _To breathe_.

Haila, _To pant_.

Oooo, _To bite_.

Taffa, _To cut_.

Moevae, _The heel_.

Eeegoo, _The tail of a dog_.

Mapoo, _To whistle_.

Aipa, _A fishing-hook_.

Ainga, _A sort of paint_.

Evaika, _A rail_.

Kooroo kooroo, _A green dove_.

Ekoopamea, cheelee, _A net_.

Efooo, _A gimlet_, or _shark’s tooth, used

for that purpose_.

Aiee, _A fan_.

Emaimeea, _or_ meemeea, _A reed_, or _small organ_.

Eneeoo, _A cocoa-nut_.

Eoono, _Tortoise shell_.

Enoo, _A belt_.

Afooneema, _The palm of the hand_.

Moemoeea, _A ceremony of putting the foot of

one on the head, and turning the

hand several times, &c._

Pooa, tareenga, _A sort of plantains_.

Kahoo hoonga, _An arrow_, or _reed_.

Atoe farre, _The roof of a house_.

Etovee, _A club_.

Emamma, _A ring_.

Eao, _A hat_.

Tehou, _A hundred_.

Keeroo, _A thousand_.

Laoo varee, _Ten thousand_.

Laoo noa, _A hundred thousand_, or _the

greatest number they can reckon_.

Poooree, _Night_; _darkness_.

Maheena, _A month_.

Fukkatanne, _To sit cross-legged_.

Kaffa, _A rope_, or _cord of cocoa-nut

core_.

Heegee, _To lift up_.

Togoo, _To set down_.

Fetooa, tagee, _To tie_.

Vevaite, _To untie_.

Tollo tolla, _Cocoa-nut skin_.

Eooma, _The shoulder_.

Fooo, _A nail_ (of iron).

Atoo, _To give_.

Epallo, _A rat_.

Elafo, _To throw away_.

Haaile, _To go_.

Haaile atoo, _To go away_.

Haaile my, _To come_.

Elooa, _To puke_.

Matangee, _Wind_.

Mamma, _or_ mamma, reeva, _Light_.

Tahee, _The sea_.

Paho paho, _To paddle_.

Hakaoo, _or_ toree, _Wood_; _a tree_.

Ehoreeoo, _To scoop water out of a boat_.

Booloo booloo, _A sail_.

Fanna, _or_ fanna tooeeoroongo, _A mast_.

Toula, _A hook_.

Tamadje, _A child_.

Tangee, _To weep_.

Elango, _A fly_.

Haingoo, toolaiee, _A tropic bird_

Epalla, _A bird’s tail_.

Kapukou, _A wing_.

Hepoona, _To fly_.

Togotto, _To lie down_.

Feenakka, _A bird-cage_.

Eallo, _The rolling of a ship_.

Etooee, _A needle_.

Epeepeege, _A girl that is a maid_.

Efonno, _A turtle._

Maia, _A thing_.

Mahee maia, _Give me something_.

Koeea, _Yes, it is_.

Geelee, _A file_.

Owo, _Wait a little_.

Temadoo? _Shall I come_?

Kaee, _or_ Eekaee, _No_.

Kalae, _A blue coat_.

Oloonga, _A stool_.

Takkabou, _A coarse mat to sleep upon_.

Kakulla, _A sweet smell_; _sweet smelled_.

Namooa, _To smell_; _smell it_.

Koe, _It is_; _as_ Koe maa, _it is

food_; Koe maiee, _it is fruitful_.

Koatoooo, _A king fisher_.

Mogo, _A lizard_.

Toutou, _A cord_.

Matte laiva, _Dead_.

Moeha, _More_.

Veenaga, _Fine_, _charming_, _wonderful_.

Tougge my, _Bring it here_.

Ai, (_long_) _angrily_, _No_.

Tamma, _Boy_, _man_, _friend_, _calling to

one_.

Eeekoou, _Here am I_; _answering one who

calls_.

Halloo, _Go_; _to go_.

Hengalo, _At a distance_, _a great way off_.

Eafee, or Eafoi, _Hire_.

Yehaeea?(_inquisitively_) _What is that_?

Kohaee koa, _or_ Kowykoa? _What is your name_?

Kovee, _or_ Koveeeea, _Bad_.

Bongee, bongee, _To-morrow_.

Peepee, _A pair of scissars_.

Chenna, _Friend, I say_; _hark ye_.

Geelee, _or_ geeree, _The skin_.

Etchee, _To peel a cocoa nut_.

Taha pai, _One thing_, _as a day_, &c.

Totto, _Blood_.

Roatoo? _Shall I go_?

Whakae, _Look_, _see_.

Whakae my, _Let me see it_.

Arooweevo, _Below_; _to let down a rope_, or

_to go down over the ship’s side to

trade_.

Aingy, _Large clams or cockles_.

Eeegee, _A chief_.

Eatooa, _God_.

A bo, _To-night_; _at night_.

Any, _Presently_; _by and by_.

Elangee, _The sky_.

Elaa, _The sun_.

Ao, _Clouds_.

Jeela, _A canoe’s yard_.

Laa, _A sail_.

Falle wakaeea, _The hut in a large canoe_.

Faee, _To play_.

Tallafoo, _The fire-place in a large boat_.

Goolee, _A sort of windlass_, or _belaying

place for the rope of their sail_.

Tataa, _A scoop for bailing out a boat_.

Taia, _White_.

Oolee, _Black_.

Goola, _Red_.

Ohooafee, _Smoke_.

Geeai, _A close kind of mat_.

Fafooa, _Pimples_.

Maaloonga, _High_, _mountainous_.

Mai, _Motions with the hands in

dancing_.

Touvaa, _A cap_ or _bonnet they wear to

shade them from the sun_.

Majeela, _A large bamboo fishing-rod_.

Pai, _A thing_.

Mamahee, _Pain_.

Echee, _or_ Eeke, _Small_, _little_.

Cheeatta, _A looking-glass_.

Tangameeme, _A bladder_.

Goobainga, _A fishing-net_.

Elillo, _Below_, _underneath_.

Faee, _To shave_.

Motooa, A Moumy, _To paddle_, or _row_.

Avy, ava, _or_ govy, _A harbour_, or _anchoring-place_.

Po, taha, pai, _In one day_.

Ebaika, _A large bat_.

Kakaa, _A parrot_.

Togee, _Marks on the cheek, made by

beating_.

Nono, _To hide a thing_.

Fonooa, _or_ Kaeenga, _Land_.

Beeoo, _A palm which bears clusters of

very small nuts_.

Haoomoo, _A large blunt sort of plantains_.

Goolo, _A globular earthen pot_, or

_vessel_.

Manga, mangatei, _A large blue star-fish_.

Hainga, _A parroquet_.

Maagonna, _Full_; _satisfied with eating_.

Maheena, _The moon_.

Teeleeamoo, _A secret_.

Fonoa bou, _A land of plenty_.

Oobai, _A song_.

Foolehaioo, _The green wattle bird_.

Pailoo, _A spoon_.

Kulle, velaive, _A large white spider, with brown

and white legs_.

Fageeta, _A ceremony of kissing, &c. on a

new acquaintance_.

Goomaa, _A rat_.

Agoota, oomoo, _To put a thing in an oven_.

Oomoo, _An oven_.

Eadda, _A path_.

Mattabaa, _A door_.

Togga, _A large stick used as a bar behind

the door_.

Koheeabo, _The paper mulberry plant_.

Faa, _Palm_, called _Pandanus_.

Tangata, _or_ tangatta, _A man_.

Taheina, _A child_.

Onne, onne, _White sand_.

Pai, _Ripe_; _old_.

Ea, _A fence made of bamboo, &c._

Toee, _The wood which they make their

canoes of_.

Mafaee, _Wasps nests built in the pod of a

plant_.

Kappe, _A large cylindrical edible root_.

Ongo, Ongo, _A small palm growing to the height

of eight feet_.

Gooholla, _It is gone_, or _flown_.

Mai, kawaia, _To take away a thing_.

Mai, Evaheeoo, _To let a thing remain_.

Kaeenga, _Land_, or _properly the shore_.

Fyatooka, _A burying-place_.

Woee, _Admiration_.

Koeee, _A fan_.

Waggee hou, _Let it alone_.

Bai, _Great_.

Laika, laika, _Good_.

Ooo, _A cray fish_.

Feengafee, _A black and white mat_.

Aingatooeea, _Stained red rushes, which they

wear round the waist_.

An, any, _A little while ago_.

Hengatoo, _Glazed cloth which they wear_.

Falla, _A thick strong mat_.

Mahagee, _A sort of ulcer, that leaves large

laced scars_.

Akkaree, _A stool to lay the head on when

asleep_.

Naffa, _A large cylindrical piece of wood,

hollowed with a slit, which serves

as a drum_.

Toa, _A spear_.

Etanno, _To bury under ground_.

Afai, _When_.

Otoogoo, _Finished_.

Maree, _or_ mareeai, _Well done_; _an acclamation_.

Fafa, _To carry one on the back_.

Mamao, _A great way_; _distant_.

Meedje, meedje, _To drink out of a cocoa-nut_.

Matta, _The face_.

Ty, _or_ Etae, _Excrement_.

Faitannoo, _A sort of pepper-tree, the juice

of which is very acrid_.

Nafee, nafee, _A fine white sort of mat_.

Abee, _A house to sleep in_.

Touaa, _A square bonnet_.

Fukke, fety, _To give a thing gratis_, or _for

friendship’s sake_.

Tooa, _or_ Tooaeea, _A servant_, or _person of inferior

rank_.

Fukkatooa, _A challenging motion, made by

striking the hand on the bend of

the opposite arm_.

Kaeehya, _or_ kaeehaa, _A thief_.

Fooloo, _A quill_.

Moojeekakka, _A basket made of cocoa-nut core,

and white beads_.

Mahanga, _A brother_.

Maeele, _An odoriferous shrub, planted near

the Fyatooka_.

Fofolla, _To unfold a piece of cloth_.

Kotjee, _None_.

Taboone, _To close_, or _shut_; _a partition

or skreen_.

Too, _To draw back a curtain or skreen_.

Ava, _A window_; _hole_.

Fonooa, foohoo, _A land of warriors_.

Taboo, _Not to touch a thing_.

Goomoo, goomoo, _A species of lichen, that grows

plentifully on some trees_.

Laiva, _For good and all_; _certainly_.

Bagooee, _A prickly star fish_.

Bedjeeloa, _A crab, with black claws_.

Fae, _A sister_.

Makka fatoo, _Coral rock_.

Gailee, gailee, _Dirt_.

Maa, _Clean_.

Ma, tagge tagge, _Let me look at it_.

Konna, _Poison_.

Fekaee, _or_ smatte, fekaee, _Hunger_.

Matte, fee aeenoo, _Thirst_.

Aieenoo, _To drink_.

Awhainne, _Near at hand_.

Monoo, _An expression of thanks_.

Mattahoa, _Very good_.

Toooa, _Both_; _we_; _both of us_.

Fooa, _repeated_, _A great number_.

Boola, _Small white shells_.

Anoo, anoo, _To swim_.

Anga, _A man_.

Haile, _A knife_.

Haile, fofoo, _A knife that shuts_.

Adoo, _Give it_; _to give_.

Geehea, _Which_, or _what_.

Tohagge, _Let me look at_, or _see it_.

Namoogoo, _A stink_, or _bad smell_.

Namoo, kakulla, _A sweet smell_.

Boobooa, tahee, _Salt_.

Meeme, _Urine_.

Owo, owo, owo. _No, no, no_.

Fohee, _To peel a plantain_.

Ajeeneu, _A vessel to put drink in_.

Tangee, fe toogee, _Striking the cheeks on the death

of their relations_.

Mamaha, _Coral rock under water_.

Oohee, _A species of diosma_.

Mawhaha, _An excellent root like a potatoe_.

Baa, _A crackling noise_; _to crack_, or

_snap_.

Boogo, _The largest sort of tree in the

islands_.

Taifo, _A mullet_.

Amou, _Whole_; _sound_; _true_; _valid_.

Faigeeaika, _Iambos_.

Kakou, _A shoal_, or _reef, on which the

sea breaks_.

Shainga (_in the language of _No_; _there is none_.

Feejee_),

Fangoo, _A small calibash shell_.

Oore, oore, _Black_.

Looloo, _An owl_.

Murroo, _Soft_.

Faifaika, _Hard_.

Feengotta, _A sort of shell_.

Wouainee, _I am here_; i.e. _when called

upon_.

Mahagge, fatoo, _A dropsy_.

Goee enee, _Near at hand_.

Fukka, ma fooa, _An arbour in which they catch

pigeons, &c._

Fatooree, _Thunder_.

A faa, _A storm_; _lightning_.

Toufarre, _A besom_.

Tongo, _A wood, of which bows are made_.

Ooha, _Rain_.

Tooboo, _To grow_.

Tawagge, totto, _The red-tailed tropic bird_.

Kadjee, _There is no more_; or _none_.

Fanna, fanna, _To wash the hands before meals_.

Mooonga, _Mountains_; _a mountain_.

Keeneeo, _Low land_.

Laoo allee, _A great many_; _an endless

number_.

Ogookaee, _No_; _there is none_.

Laia, _or_ koelaia, _Speech_; _words_.

Kaho, _An arrow_.

Aieeboo, _A vessel or dish_.

Tooee, _A club_.

Feila, _To pull a rope_.

Eevee, aai, _A cheer in pulling a rope_.

Feilaa too, _A word given by one, on pulling a

rope, and the rest repeat_ Woa, _as

a response_.

Engago, _Fat_, or _lard of a hog_.

Kanno, matte, _The lean part of meat_.

Kofooa, _A kidney_.

Kollofeea, _The name of the volcano on

Tofooa_.

Moggocheea, _Cold_.

Hooa, _The going about_, or _tacking of a

ship_.

Ongonna, _To understand_.

Kaee ongonna, _I do not understand you_.

Mafanna, _Warm_.

Anapo, _Last night_.

Fakkahooa, _The Southerly wind_; or _a foul

wind_.

Looloo, _To roll, as a ship_.

Matangee, _The wind_.

Matangee anga, _or_ matangee leeoo. _The East and North wind_, or _a

fair wind_.

Amooee, _or_ tamooree, _From behind_.

Amooa, _or_ tamooa, _From before_.

Ahaa, _or_ koehaa? _For what reason_?

Mohe fai? _Where shall I sleep_?

Koo mafoore, _To lie along_, or _yield, as a

ship close hauled_.

Palla, _Rotten_.

Elooa, _A hole_.

Molle, _or_ molle molle, _Smooth_.

Keeai, _A plant they make mats of; the

cultivated Pandanus_.

Tongo laiee, _Mangrove_.

Reemoo, _Seaweed_.

Fety, _A term of friendship_.

Jeejee, _Esculent dracæna_

Taboo laia, _Don’t speak_; _hold your tongue_.

Toonoa, _Dressed_, _cooked_.

Tohke, _A measure_.

Toohagge, _Let me see it_.

Taheine, _A young girl_; _a daughter_.

Haine, _Here_.

Baiahou, _Swell of the sea_.

Maea, _A rope_.

Otta, _Raw_; _as raw meat_.

Moho, _Meat well dressed_.

Maoo lillo, _Low land_.

Moanna, _Deep water_; _sea_.

Kae haia? _Which is it you want_?

Vava tahee, _Red coral_.

Feefy, _A species of mimosa_.

Fatoo, _The belly_.

Mee mee. _To suck bones_.

Meedje meedjee, _To suck as a child_.

Ooree, _A rudder_.

Tainga, _A seed of a plant_.

Oolel teffee, _Incisions in the foreskin, which,

contracting, prevent its covering

the glans_.

Vefoo, _To hide a thing_.

Laifa, _A silver fish_.

Heenaheena, _White_; _yellow_.

Feeoo, _Acrid_; _bitter_.

Goomo, _To look for a thing that is lost_.

Eeta, _Angry_.

Aneafee, _Yesterday_.

Gefai, _Unknown_; _strange_; _as a strange

man_.

Fono, _To eat_.

Kailee tokee, _A Panama shell_.

Toffe, _A sort of hammer oyster_.

Toogoo, _Let it lie_, or _remain_.

Koehaa, hono, hengoa, _What is the name of it_.

Loee, _To understand_.

Booga, _To hold fast_.

Loloa, _Long_.

Kotjee, _To cut_.

Fatjee, _To break_.

Fohenna, _A son_; _a brother_.

Matee, _A fig-tree_.

Lohee, _A lie_.

Mato, _Steep_; _high_.

Patoo, _A stroke_; _to strike_.

Hooho, _The breasts_.

Momoggo, _Cold_.

Saiouhai, _Admiration_.

Noo, _Mine_; _of me_.

Valla, _A piece of Cloth worn round the

waist_.

Doooyoo, a matoo, eeoee, _A song in favour of a victor_.

Mulloo, _Serene_; _settled_; _smooth_.

Vaitte, _To untie a thing_.

Moheefo, _Come down below_.

Fetagee; malowhee, _To fight_.

Tao, _A spear_.

Eenee, _Now_; _immediately_.

Mamanna; au manna manna _Engaged_; _contracted to_.

Fukka booakka, _An epithet of abuse_; _contempt_.

Aloalo, _To fan_, or _cool_.

Tammaha, _Certain great chiefs_.

Tamolao, _Chief_.

Mahae, _A torn hole_.

Goefai, _What is_.

Laoo, _To count_, or _reckon_.

Manakko, _To give_.

Fooo, _New_; _lately made_.

Modooa, _Old_; _worn_.

Maa, _A sour plantain, by being put

under ground_.

Kaifoo, _A brownish yellow_.

Eafee, _To play on the flute_.

Mou afai? _When do you go_?

Afaia? _How many_?

Cheefa, _A pearl oyster_.

Goee, goee, _A saw shell_.

Fotoohoa, _A rock oyster_.

Ogoo, _Of me_; _belonging to me_.

Lelange, _To make_.

Behange, _Let me see it_.

Foo, _To box_.

Heeva, _A song, with many women singing

different keys_.

Ooloo pokko, _The head_.

Koukou, _To bathe_.

Mabba, _A three kernelled nut_.

Eelo, _To know_.

Fotte, fotta, _To squeeze gently with the hands_.

Fangootooa, _Wrestling_.

Momoho, _Ripe_.

Koffe, _Bamboo which they beat with on the

ground_.

Alla, _I say_.

Waila, _Hot_.

Pango, _Bad_.

Orlongaa, _Thread of which they make their

nets_, or _the plant_.

Monee, _Truth_.