MATA TOTUMO.
Little was accomplished in the way of hunting during the two weeks we
passed at Mata Gorda, occupying ourselves mainly in building a ranch for
the establishment of a caporal and his family, with corrals attached,
sufficiently spacious to accommodate a large drove. Other parts of the
estate requiring immediate attention, we removed from Mata Gorda to Mata
Totumo, a retired corner of the savannas, whose proximity to other
cattle farms exposed it to the constant depredations of poachers. In
this way vast numbers of our cattle were annually lost to us; it had
accordingly become necessary to establish there also a Fundacion, or
small farm with a resident caporal, who should exercise a strict
surveillance and take charge of a small herd of tame cattle as a nucleus
for a permanent settlement in that exposed frontier.
Hardly were we established in the new encampment, when a party of our
men in scouring the savanna encountered a band of these cattle poachers,
who had already collected a sufficient drove to make them comfortable
to the year’s end, and were hastening home with their unlawful booty.
Our people immediately gave chase, but succeeded in capturing two only
of the robbers. After whipping these most unmercifully, as is customary
in the Llanos for similar offences, and giving them in addition the
positive assurance that, if again found within the precincts of the
estate, they would fare even worse, the rascals were at length allowed
to depart without further punishment.
As usual in all our prairie encampments, much time was occupied in
destroying baneful weeds and reptiles. Snakes especially were so
plentiful as to at times greatly endanger our barefooted community. That
habit is second nature, was certainly strikingly exemplified in the
present instance, for in a few days we came to notice the heretofore
dreaded snakes as little as though so many harmless earthworms. Our
fears, if not their cause, being at length entirely removed, we next
erected a shelter from the inclemency of the weather for our abundant
luggage, no small cause of anxiety, situated as we were at a long
distance from the source of any fresh supplies. Afterwards we commenced
raising corrals for our increasing herds. Fortunately building materials
were very abundant; and the bamboo, that graceful representative of the
grasses, was of the greatest utility. Its tall and pliant stems afforded
all that was necessary for rafters and fence rails, serving also various
other uses. To duly estimate the size attained by this giant grass of
the tropics, it is necessary to understand that some stems reach the
astonishing height of thirty or even forty feet, with a corresponding
thickness of six or seven inches at their base; and as these bamboos
spring in immense clusters from the ground, they grow at last into an
aspect which is truly beautiful. Innumerable slender leaves of a
delicate sea green color, clothe in masses the tops of these huge stems,
curving them downward by their weight, and giving them, especially when
sporting with the soft breezes of the pampas, the appearance of waving
plumes of most magnificent proportions, rising, bending, swaying in
long, graceful sweeps over the tops of the surrounding trees. An elegant
writer, describing this majestic Queen of the Grasses, has beautifully
said, “Grace, delicacy, richness of form and color, every element of
vegetable beauty, appear combined in this luxuriant dweller by the
streams of the tropics. Nothing is more cheerful to the eye of the
heated and wearied traveller, than the deep rocky basins formed by
mountain streams when filled with water, and overshadowed by clumps of
bamboo. They often lean over the stream on one side and arch the pathway
on the other, excluding almost every ray of sunlight from the cool
recesses below. Their delicate brittle leaves are stirred by the tiniest
zephyr, and bend to the pressure of the butterfly and the bee. Sometimes
clumps of bamboo stand on either side of the roads and form long vaulted
passages, as if by fretted Gothic arches, with here and there branches
of rich flowers and leaves hanging down like beautiful corbels. When the
gale of the hurricane comes, these groves of bamboo exchange an aspect
of beauty for that of grandeur. They are heaved and tossed like the
billows of the sea, and their rich foliage driven in every direction
appears like surges breaking on the rocks.”
* * * * *
No sooner was the majada in readiness, than we commenced the somewhat
laborious, but at the same time pleasingly exciting business of filling
it, for which purpose we called upon the neighboring cattle farms of La
Yagua and Caucagua for assistance. So effectual were our efforts, that
in a few days we had collected two thousand animals for the brand, most
of which, having long passed the age when this operation is usually
performed, gave us in consequence a great deal of trouble. Occasionally,
by way of relaxation from our labors, we busied ourselves in training
the boys in the manly art of _torear_, or the scarcely less dangerous
one of breaking in wild horses, on which especially the hardy dwellers
of the Llanos eminently pride themselves. During our sojourn at Mata
Totumo, its owner became concerned in an incident highly illustrative of
this peculiar pride, so universal a trait among these children of Nature
and the Sun, illustrative no less of the almost entire freedom from
conventional restraint which exists between master and servant in the
Llanos. Our Leader had taken a strong fancy to a beautiful cream colored
horse, which, although partially trained to the saddle, missed no
opportunity of practising some of his old tricks, a favorite one being
apparently to unseat, whenever possible, his rider. This amusement he
several times indulged in at the expense of his master, and, as it
chanced, always in presence of his pet caporal, Sarmiento, who
invariably gave _carte blanche_ to his own witticisms on such occasions.
To these the good-humored master replied one day by challenging him to
ride the horse round the camp on a run without being thrown, a dollar to
be added to his wages if successful; if the reverse, the same amount to
be thereafter deducted. “Done,” cried Sarmiento, extending his hand
familiarly to his master; and without more words, having blindfolded the
horse by means of a sliding leather strap attached to the bridle, called
_tapaojos_, he placed upon him his own saddle and holsters, and the next
moment was firmly seated on his back. Then, removing the bandage, he at
once commenced belaboring the refractory stallion with his _chaparro_,
showering such powerful blows upon his haunches, that the terrified
animal rushed headlong through the camp, rearing, plunging, and tearing
along the plain at a fearful pace. All in vain were the efforts of the
nigh frantic steed to shake the unmerciful Centaur from his back; the
poor animal had to strive against one with whom contention was
ineffectual, and who finally brought him back triumphantly to the camp
as submissively meek as he had previously been savage and refractory.
* * * * *
Shortly after our arrival in that secluded spot, came the Corporation of
Mantecal, under whose jurisdiction we were, accompanied by many of the
inhabitants, to pay their respects and personal regards to the former
chieftain of the Llanos and late President of the Republic, tendering
him at the same time the hospitalities of the town--a few straggling
huts. It was a surprise party, nevertheless we acquitted ourselves with
becoming hospitality. Two fat calves were immediately slaughtered; and
these, together with numbers of armadillos, galapagos, and a fine sow
from the swamps near by, formed a banquet not unworthy a London board of
aldermen. A hastily constructed table, its top made from laths of bamboo
and tied with _bejucos_ or creepers to four rough posts set in the
ground, was soon raised under the trees; the broad leaves of the wild
plantain formed the table cloth, while the shells of galapagos served
the double purpose of plates and dishes, entirely in keeping with the
rural entertainment.
Here, as well as at Mata Gorda, game was most abundant, and we could at
all times count upon a ready supply with which to vary the more
substantial dishes. Deer were plentiful in the surrounding woods; but I
found them, after killing several, too thin at this season to be worth
hunting, especially as the savannas were teeming with the finest cattle
and wild hogs; the latter are in good condition at all times, and each
day our men brought to camp the spoils of one or more _capones_ hanging
from the saddles.
The ant-bear or great ant-eater, a stout and powerful animal measuring
six feet from the snout to the end of the tail, also ranged these
prairies; but although his flesh is well-flavored and easily procured,
it is never used for food, owing to his repulsive appearance. “He is
chiefly found in the inmost recesses of the forest, and seems partial to
the low and swampy parts near creeks, where the trocly-tree grows.
There
[Illustration]
he goes up and down in quest of ants, of which there is never the least
scarcity, so that he soon obtains a sufficient supply of food with very
little trouble. He cannot travel fast; man is superior to him in speed.
Without swiftness to enable him to escape from his enemies; without
teeth, the possession of which would assist him in self-defence; and
without the power of burrowing in the ground, by which he might conceal
himself from his pursuers, he still is capable of ranging through these
wilds in perfect safety; nor does he fear the fatal pressure of the
serpent’s fold, or the teeth of the famished jaguar. Nature has formed
his fore-legs wonderfully thick, and strong, and muscular, and armed his
feet with three tremendous sharp and crooked claws. Whenever he seizes
an animal with these formidable weapons, he hugs it close to his body,
and keeps it there till it dies through pressure, or through want of
food. Nor does the ant-bear in the meantime suffer much from loss of
aliment, as it is a well-known fact that he can go longer without food
than, perhaps, any other animal, excepting the land-tortoise. His skin
is of a texture that perfectly resists the bite of a dog; his hinder
parts are protected by thick and shaggy hair, while his immense tail is
large enough to cover his whole body.”[31]
Numerous also were the foot-prints of the jaguar; yet, in my frequent
perambulations through the forest, it was never my fortune to encounter
this despot of the howling wilderness, although I one day mistook for
his voice that of the _titirijí_ or great horned owl of the pampas. I
found him perched among the branches of a _guamo_ tree, inclining his
large head toward me with a scrutinizing look peculiar to those birds,
as if taking mental notes of my appearance. Whenever I remained
perfectly quiet he gave utterance to his unearthly hootings, the woods
echoing and re-echoing the dismal sounds. The _titirijí_ would seem to
be possessed of some ventriloquial power, for his voice, loud and deep
as it was, yet appeared to issue from a distance. The frequent effect of
this peculiarity is to mislead the unaccustomed hunter, who by it is
readily induced to wander on and on in unavailing search. Having
contemplated at leisure this singular bird, I finally levelled my
fowling-piece at him, and brought him down with a charge of buckshot
which I had destined for a deer. It proved a very fine specimen, with
wings as large as those of a good sized turkey, while two horn-like
tufts of feathers rose on each side of the head, which, in addition to
the large, glaring eyes, gave him a truly ferocious aspect. His food
consists of all kinds of wild fowl; however, not being over scrupulous,
he devours with equal relish rats, mice and snakes; while even monkeys
of the smaller sort are often his prey. This owl inhabits for the most
part the loneliest and gloomiest portions of the forest; but is
occasionally seen solemnly watching from some convenient tree-top the
various inhabitants of the farmyard.
MANTECAL.
In compliance with an invitation tendered to the General and his suite
by the good people of Mantecal, we started in a few days to visit their
village, not far distant from our encampment. When within three miles of
the place, we were welcomed by a large concourse of the inhabitants
coming to escort us. Almost the whole population turned out, saluting
our entry into the town with the firing of blunderbuses and other
firearms, and further gracing it with a most discordant uproar of
rickety harps, violins, and bandolas, enough to have driven frantic the
“Enraged Musician” of Hogarth.
Mantecal was at one time quite a flourishing town, notwithstanding the
wars which ravaged it for many successive years; but since the great
epidemic of 1832, and subsequently, it has been well nigh depopulated,
while the few inhabitants who were not swept away by the scourge,
abandoned their homes. Thus the once busy community became almost a
dismal wilderness,
“Where at each step the stranger fears to wake
The rattling terrors of the vengeful snake.”
At the time of our visit to Mantecal but few houses remained standing,
sad monuments of past prosperity. We spent three days there, and the
inhabitants, hospitable in spite of their miserable condition,
entertained us to the utmost of their ability. Not only did they provide
the best accommodations the village afforded, but treated us in addition
to a nightly fandango, in which people of all castes and conditions
joined. These festivities ended, we gladly returned to our prairie home,
the more especially that the important duties we had there to perform
would probably delay our return to Maracay several weeks longer; also
the rainy season was fast approaching and each day we had warnings of
the coming tempest then brewing in the south.
We continued to hunt those savannas while there were any _orejanos_ to
brand, adding largely in the meantime to our stock of reserved oxen for
the markets of the upper country, which had already increased to a
considerable drove. We also made several excursions to the neighboring
cattle farms for the purpose of separating from their herds all the
_orejanos_ whose mothers bore our brand. Judging from the number of
calves there collected, and without taking into consideration those
yearly discarded by the mothers, it was easy to perceive that the
revenues of those estates were greatly increased at our cost, their
original stock being vastly inferior to ours. In this manner many of the
minor cattle farms enriched themselves at the expense of wealthy
neighbors.