SHOOTING ADVENTURES.
We were now in the very midst of the most splendid shooting ground of
the republic, and each day my quest after the feathered inhabitants of
those fine groves was rewarded with an abundant supply of _pavas_,
_guacharacas_, and that most noble and beautiful of all game birds, the
_paujī_ or crested curassow of South America, (Crax alector.) This
fine species is found in all parts of the country, especially in the
woods of the _tierra caliente_, where it can be tracked without
difficulty by the shrill and prolonged whistle with which it calls its
mate, and which can be heard from a long distance. It appears not to
notice the presence of the hunter, allowing itself to be shot down
without making the least effort to avoid the danger. This bird is nearly
the same size as the domestic turkey, and being easily domesticated,
could very well supply the place of that fowl, as the flesh is juicy and
of exquisite flavor. Its plumage is peculiarly rich and beautiful, the
head and neck being white and the rest of its body of a rich olive
brown, excepting the wing tips which are black. An elegant tuft of
curled, glossy black feathers surmounts the head, adding greatly to the
splendor of its appearance. In the more elevated parts of the country
there is another species, the _paujī de piedra_ or cashew-bird, so
called from a singular excrescence on the top of its head, in color a
bluish gray, and bearing some resemblance to a polished nodule of slate.
This bird only inhabits woods growing at about four thousand feet of
elevation, and if possible exceeds in beauty the preceding. Its plumage
of a deep black, with tints of olive green, contrasts exquisitely with
that of the bill and legs, which are respectively of a brilliant scarlet
and deep yellow. They are even more easily domesticated than the
preceding, and are therefore to be met with in many a farm yard of the
Cordillera, where they form one of its most graceful ornaments.
The _guacharaca_ or South American pheasant may also be classed among
the finest game birds of Venezuela, and is extremely abundant
everywhere. In riding along the solitary roads through the plains and
fertile vales of the _tierra caliente_, the traveller may have often
noticed at all hours of the day and even of the night, more especially
at the approach of rain, a most discordant chattering in harsh and
shrill notes; it is the song of the _guacharaca_, a bird of about the
size of the domestic hen, bearing some resemblance to the female
pheasant, and like it of a chocolate color. It is of a sociable nature,
always congregating in flocks of twenty or thirty. The moment one of the
number leads the chant, all the rest join in chorus, uttering distinctly
in hoarse repetition _guacharaca, guacharaca_; hence the name of this
bird. These cries are invariably responded to by all the flocks in the
neighborhood, so that in a short time the whole valley rings from end to
end with their discordant voices. Like all other gallinaceous birds, it
is very easily domesticated with the _paujies_, _pavas_, _gallinetas_,
and several other wild fowl with which the rural inhabitant loves to
stock his yard.
In addition to the foregoing, there are also in the Llanos all kinds of
wild pigeons, doves, plovers, and quails, the latter so abundant that
they can easily be killed by the hundred with a stick. And indeed, so
great is the almost endless variety of fine birds in these wilds, that
it would be impossible, within the limits of these pages, to enter into
further detail concerning them.
Deer were also very plentiful, both in the _mata_, whither they were
attracted by its refreshing shade, and in the meadows around it; but
having no dogs with us, and being unwilling to tire our horses in
unprofitable sport, we refrained from their pursuit. One afternoon,
however, much to my surprise, a merry, clever fellow by the name of
Casimiro, who had followed us from the valleys, entered the camp bending
under the weight of a fine doe which he had killed that afternoon,
together with a buck that an Indian boy was carrying for him. On our
complimenting his extraordinary skill in killing two deer in so short a
space of time, he informed us that he could have brought down any number
of them, and intended retracing his steps at once for more. This proved
no mere boast, for quickly returning to the woods, he soon after again
made his appearance with a similar load, which, seating himself by the
fire, he at once commenced skinning.
I inquired of Casimiro the occasion of his success; he replied by
producing a tube of bamboo about the thickness of the thumb, one end
being covered with a thin membrane. On blowing through the other end, a
sound precisely resembling the bleating of a young fawn resulted. It is
in this manner that the treacherous hunter decoys the anxious doe, whose
every motion he watches from the place of his concealment behind the
branches of some tree, usually the algarrobo, of whose pods deer are
very fond. This detestable expedient is, I am glad to state, rarely
practised unless by hungry sportsmen; and as we were then in the midst
of plenty, and venison besides not being much relished by the
beef-eating population of the Llanos, we had fortunately no occasion to
resort to it in any of our subsequent deer-shooting adventures.
Another device much practised by Indians in these cases, consists in
assuming the guise of the great _garzon_ or soldier crane of the pampas,
whose company appears always welcome to deer grazing in the open
prairie. This crane, which I have mentioned in a former chapter, as
being at the least five feet in height, is mounted upon a pair of long
slender legs, giving it the appearance of walking on stilts; their
plumage is a dazzling white, and they have a pouch under the throat of a
brilliant scarlet color. The bill, too, is quite a remarkable feature,
fully a foot long and very wide at the base, which permits of
swallowing at a mouthful large fish, as well as frogs, toads and snakes,
of which last it partakes with equal relish. All that the hunter has to
do, who intends ensnaring his deer with borrowed plumes, is to hide his
own face with a mask, which must have a long bill resembling that of the
crane attached to it. The mask being securely fastened on, he finishes
his toilet by covering his body to his knees with a white garment.
[Illustration]
In this simple disguise the hunter, equipped besides with his gun or bow
and arrows, makes straight for the game, careful however to approach it
in a contrary direction to that of the wind, deer possessing peculiarly
acute powers of scent. On one occasion, I was fortunate enough to shoot
three of these shy animals out of a small herd, before the rest took the
alarm.
Our young _attaché_, Roseliano, who had witnessed the universal success
of these devices, envying the achievements of his elders, determined to
try what he could accomplish for himself in this line. Accordingly,
choosing for his intended victim a fine stag grazing at no great
distance from the camp, he forthwith proceeded on his experiment. Having
no _garzon’s_ beak at hand, nor even a white garment, with which to
personate the feathered dandy of the savannas, he was for some time at a
loss how to approach the game without alarming it, when a malicious
companion persuaded him that he could ensnare the deer equally well if
he presented himself simply _in puris naturalibus_, assuring him that
the animal would indubitably conceive him to be a rare bird or at least
a new species of _garzon_. Roseliano, finally convinced by these
specious representations, quickly denuded himself; then, gun in hand,
and taking all necessary precautions in regard to the wind, which was
blowing quite fresh at the time, immediately gave chase.
At first the stag appeared to pay little heed to the enticing object,
and allowed it to approach within range; but the moment the gun was
raised, the stag turned round and trotted slowly off, waving his short
tail defiantly. Sometimes he stopped for a little while, seeming to
examine from head to foot this unfeathered biped, afterward resuming his
mastications with perfect nonchalance. At such times Roseliano, with due
precautions, would creep slowly toward him, when invariably the deer,
almost within range, again trotted composedly down the plain, not even
giving his pursuer a chance to aim at him. Occasionally he would turn
about, stamp his tiny hoof upon the hard ground, and again move off
wagging his little tail at him as though to say, “No, you don’t.”
Thus went each, still eluding still pursuing, for a long distance,
without either seeming at all willing to part company, until the burning
sun began to tell upon the bare skin of the young hunter, who
experienced besides sundry painful reminders from the thorny sensitive
plants under foot. At length growing somewhat desperate, he dashed ahead
and sent a random shot after the deer without success, the ball striking
the ground far short of the mark. The deer seemed now to think he had
received notice to quit, for, to the great disgust of poor Roseliano, he
at once bounded gracefully over the tall grass and disappeared from
view.
Within a stone’s throw of our camp were several lagoons abounding in
terrapins and turtles, whilst on all sides the savannas teemed with many
delicious quadrupeds. These, on account of their _penchant_ for the
water, have been declared cold-blooded animals by the church, and can in
consequence be eaten as fish; and as it was Holy Week, a grand hunt was
proposed for the purpose of providing the camp with food which should be
wholesome as well for the soul as the body. Accordingly, early on Good
Friday morning the whole disposable force assembled in front of the
ranch; and after a partial organization, all started on foot in
different directions, some in quest of _cachicamos_ or armadillos,
others for _galapagos_ and tortoises, while the less fastidious did not
disdain to try their skill upon those water hogs, the _chigüires_ or
capyvaras.
The results of the hunt far exceeded our expectation, as in less than
four hours nearly three hundred armadillos, and probably as many
turtles, were brought into camp. The flesh of the _chigüire_ is not much
relished by the Llaneros, although it is excellent for hams when
properly cured and smoked; accordingly the carcasses, the hind quarters
being removed, were left to the turkey buzzards.
The flesh of the armadillo is most delicious, tasting very much like
young pig; and being always roasted in the shell--a thick cuirass formed
of successive horny plates--all its juices are effectually preserved. It
is, however, very rich eating, from the excess of fatness, and therefore
liable to produce indigestion, if not followed by a good dose of
aguardiente and a strong sauce of Chili peppers. It is also said to
exert very injurious effects on persons predisposed to syphilitic
disorders of the system, developing incipient ulcers and various other
cutaneous diseases.
[Illustration]
The armadillo is a harmless, curiously-formed little quadruped, about
the size of a common hedgehog; it burrows in the ground, spending the
greater part of the day in cool retirement, issuing at dusk or very
early in the morning in search of food; this consists principally of
worms, the larvæ of insects or perchance a young snake from the broods
that take shelter among the cells of its subterranean abode--whether by
permission or as intruders, remains to be ascertained. The fact is,
however, that many of these burrows are so full of snakes, that it is
necessary on account of them to exercise considerable caution when
passing near the abodes of armadillos. Two little owls called
_aguaita-caminos_, road-watchers, usually stand like sentinels at the
entrance of these burrows, and by their constant flutterings around the
sportsman, and their uncouth motions, almost invariably succeed in
warning the armadillo. Nevertheless, if the hunter approach in front, he
can always secure it with his hands as its vision in that direction is
entirely obscured by the position of the plates with which the head is
covered. When attacked from the rear or sides, it makes quickly for its
burrow; but if the hunter, however, be sufficiently expert, he may
succeed in getting hold of the long, horny tail of the animal before it
disappears entirely from view. Even then, as this creature possesses the
power of swelling its body when thus attacked, it is rather difficult to
drag it out, unless by some means the size of the burrow can be
enlarged. There is then danger of severe wounds from its sharp claws, as
well as of being bitten by some of the poisonous snakes which share its
home.
What affinity there is existing between this quadruped and the finny
inhabitants of the water, prompting their classification among amphibia,
I was unable to ascertain; but although the capyvara and several others
placed by the church under that category, possess, it is true, great
powers of resistance while in water, the reverse is assuredly the case
with regard to the armadillo, which always seeks the higher grounds so
as to escape submersion during the great floods; and I have often found
it in the midst of extensive plains where no moisture excepting the dews
of night is to be seen for miles around.
When all the different parties, participants in the hunting excursion,
were once more seated round the camp fires, it was quite amusing to hear
their accounts of the various incidents connected with it; one had got
hold of a rattlesnake’s tail, mistaking it for that of an armadillo;
another had stumbled over a crocodile while diving for turtles in a
shallow creek; a third had his toe bitten off by caribes; while not a
few experienced more or less severe shocks from electric eels. In front
of many of the fires, soon blazing under the trees, were arrayed on long
wooden spits entire carcasses of the armadillos split along the belly
and kept open by means of cross bars of green boughs. Directly the coals
were sufficiently hot in the centre of the fires, the galapagos were all
beheaded and thrown, still alive, into the midst of the burning embers.
These chelonia, like all other amphibia, are exceedingly tenacious of
life; their sufferings, therefore, must doubtless be great under this
lingering death, as was manifested by their long-continued struggles in
the fire.
The Llaneros say that these turtles, according to their most exquisite
gastronomers, should be eaten where there is no light, asserting that
they will then be found more rich and juicy; but the actual reason for
this, as I afterward ascertained to my great disgust, was that some of
the choicest morsels are precisely those which to be eaten must not be
seen, as otherwise they would unhesitatingly be rejected.
There are several varieties of fresh water tortoises in the Apure, an
abundant and wholesome food for the inhabitants. The most common are the
_galapagos_, a large species of terrapin, the _terecay_ and the _arrau_
or great turtle of the Orinoco, concerning which the celebrated Father
Gumilla wrote in his “Orinoco Illustrated,” that it would be as
difficult to count the grains of sand on the shores of the Orinoco, as
to count the immense number of tortoises which inhabit its margin and
water. Although confined principally to the broad channel of the
Orinoco, the _arraus_ are met with also in great abundance in the Apure,
the Arauca, and most of the other large tributaries of that river; as
also in the Amazon, according to Bates’ statements, who has devoted a
chapter to this magnificent turtle, and to the exciting scenes which
take place during the gathering of their eggs by the Amazonian Indians
and Portuguese traders. As I intend to allude again to this subject, I
will return to their congeners of the flooded lands west of the Orinoco.
To convey a distinct idea of the prodigious abundance of this species,
it may suffice to say that by merely driving a herd of wild cattle or
horses at full speed into any pond of these savannas, the first wave
produced by the sudden splash will heave up thousands of turtles upon
the beach. Another method resorted to in the Llanos for obtaining them,
is by raking in the soft mud in which these chelonia habitually bury
themselves the moment they are alarmed. After this mud becomes
thoroughly dried by the summer’s heat, they remain under its indurated
crust in a dormant state until the commencement of the rainy season. Yet
even here the poor creatures are insecure, as they are not unfrequently
roused from their siesta by the hunter setting fire to the dry water
plants, the ornaments of these natural ponds; at such times breaking
through the earth crust which environs them, they in vain endeavor to
escape their tormentors, who can then pick them up at their leisure.
In addition to the foregoing, there are two other varieties of tortoises
found amidst the marshes and jungles of the Llanos; they are the
_morrocoy_ or land tortoise, having a hard and rounded shell, and the
_jicotea_, an animal which appears to form the connecting link between
turtles proper and tortoises; both are of excellent flavor, more
especially the former, whose liver, dressed and fried in its own gall,
is undoubtedly superior to that most prized of all epicurean morsels,
_foie gras_. It is very large as compared with the size of the animal,
decreasing however very materially if its owner has had a long fast,
which, as this reptile, like all others of the class, can and does
frequently live a long time without food, has doubtless occasioned the
popular error that it feeds on its own liver when long deprived of other
nourishment.
During the season of great droughts, the _morrocoy_ seeks the hollow
trunks of trees for shelter, where it lives entirely without nourishment
for several months, until, feeling the dampness produced by the first
showers of spring penetrating his subterranean abode, he moves slowly
out to browse upon the tender shoots of water plants and prairie
lilies. The shell of this tortoise is so hard that nothing short of
heavy blows from an axe can separate the thick plates of which it is
formed, and a locomotive engine might pass over it without producing the
least effect upon its unimpressible tenant. Long after the carcass has
been cut up for cooking, and is in water boiling over the fire, the
pieces are incessantly in motion, and it is not until the boiling has
been continued many successive hours, that the meat is fit for eating.
The land tortoise does not deposit its eggs in the sand, as is the
practice with its congener of the water, but drops them indiscriminately
into any convenient hole, leaving the care of hatching them to the heat
of the earth. The egg, which is larger than a hen’s, is extremely white,
spherical in form, and very hard. The male is readily distinguished from
the female by a deep depression of its pectoral plate, that of the
female being perfectly even with the ground.
I have been assured by reliable parties that the blood of the _morrocoy_
is a specific for neuralgia, if rubbed, while still warm, upon the part
affected.