The snow-line which, under the equator in South America, attains an

elevation equal to that of the summit of Mont Blanc in the Alps, and

descends, according to recent measurements, about 1023 feet lower toward the

northern tropic in the elevated plateaux of Mexico (in 19 degrees north

latitude), rises, according to Pentland, in the southern tropical zone (14

degrees 30' to 18 degrees south latitude), being more than 2665 feet higher

in the maritime and western branch of the Cordilleras of Chili than under

the equator near Quito on Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, and Antisana. Dr. Gilles

even asserts that much further to the south, on the declivity of the volcano

of Peuquenes (latitude 33 degrees), he found the snow-line at an elevation

of between 14,520 and 15,030 feet. The evaporation of the snow in the

extremely dry air of the summer, and under a cloudless sky, is so powerful,

that the volcano of Aconcagua, northeast of Valparaiso (latitude 32 degrees

30'), which was found in the expedition of the Beagle to be more than 1400

feet higher than Chimborazo, was on one occasion seen free from snow.•

[footnote] *Darwin, 'Journal of the Voyages of the Adventure and Beagle',

p. 297. As the volcano of Aconcagua was not at that time in a state of

eruption, we must not ascribe the remarkable phenomenon of this absence of

snow to the internal heat of the mountain (to the escape of heated air

through fissures), as is sometimes the case with Cotopaxi. Gilles, in the

'Journal of Natural Science', 1830, p. 316.

In

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an almost equal northern latitude (from 30 degrees 45' to 31 degrees), the

snow'line on the southern declivity of the Himalaya lies at an elevation of

12,982 feet, which is about the same as the height which we might have

assigned to it from a comparison with other mountain chains; on the northern

declivity, however, under the influence of the high lands of Thibet (whose

mean elevation appears to be about 11,510 feet), the snow-line is situated

at a height of 16,630 feet. This phenomenon, which has long been contested

both in Europe and in India, and whose causes I have attempted to develop in

various works, published since 1820,* possesses other grounds of interest

than

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those of a purely physical nature, since it exercises no inconsiderable

degree of influence on the mode of life of numerous tribes -- the

meteorological processes of the atmosphere being the controlling causes on

which depend the agricultural or pastoral pursuits of the inhabitants of

extensive tracts of continents.

[footnote] *See my 'Second Memoire sur les Montagnes de Inde', in the

'Annales de Chemie et de Physique', t. xiv., p. 5-55; and 'Asie Centrale',

t. iii., p. 281-327. While the most learned and experienced travelers in

India, Colebrooke, Webb, and Hodgson, Victor Jacquemont, Fobes Royle, Carl

von Hugel, and Vigne, who have all personally examined the Himalaya range,

are agreed, regarding the greater elevation of the snow-line on the

Thibeta=ian side, the accuracy of this statement is called in question by

John Gerard, by the geognoist MacClelland, the editor of the 'Calcutta

Journal', and by Captain Thomas Hutton, assistant surveyor of the Agra

Division. The appearance of my work on Central Asia gave rise to a

rediscussion of this question. A recent number (vol. iv., January, 1844) of

MacClelland and Griffith's 'Calcutta Journal of Natural History' contains,

however, a very remarkable and decisive notice of the determination of the

snow-line in the Himalaya. Mr. Batten, of the Bengal service, writes as

follows from Camp Semulka, on the Cosillah River, Kumaon: "In the July,

1843, No. 14 of your valuable Journal of Natural History, which I have only

lately had the opportunity of seeing, I read Captain Hutton's paper on the

snow of the Himalayas, and as I differed almost entirely from the

conclusions so confidently drawn by that gentleman, I thought it right, for

the interest of scientific truth, to prepare some kind of answer; as

however, on a more attentive perusal, I find that you yourself appear

implicitly to adopt Captain Hutton's views, and actually use these words,

'We have long been conscious of the error here so well ppointed out by

Captain Hutton, 'in common with every one who has visited the Himalayas,' I

feel more inclined to address you, in the first instance, and to ask whether

you will publish a short reply which I meditate; and whether your not to

Captain Hutton's paper was written after your own full and careful

examination of the subject, or merely on a general kind of acquiscence with

the fact and opinions of your able contributor, who is so well known and

esteemed as a collector of scientific data? Now I am one who have visited

the Himalaya on the western side; I have crossed the Borendo or Booria Pass

into the Buspa Valley, in Lower Kanawar, returning into the Rewaien

Mountains of Ghurwal by the Koopin Pass; I have visited the source of the

Jumna at Jumnootree; and, moving eastward, the sources of the Kalee or

Mundaknee branch of the Ganges at Kadarnath; of the Bishnoo Gunga, or

Aluknunda, at Buddrinath and Mana; of the Pindur at the foot of the Great

Peak Nundidavi; of the Dhoulee branch of the Ganges, beyond Neetee, crossing

and recrossing the pass of that name into Thibet; of the Goree or great

branch of the Sardah, or Kalee, near Oonta Dhoora, beyond Melum. I have

also, in my official capacity made the settlement of the Bhote Mehals of

this province. My residence of more than six years in the hills has thrown

me constantly in the way of European and native travelers, nor have I

neglected to acquire information from the recorded labors of others. Yet,

with all this experience, I am prepared to affirm that 'the perpetual

snow-line is at a higher elevation' on the northern slope of 'the Himalaya'

than on the southern slope.

"The facts mentioned by Captain Hutton appear to me only to refer to the

northern sides of all mountains in these regions, and not to affect, in any

way the reports of Captain Webb and others, on which Humboldt formed his

theory. Indeed how can any facts of one observer in one place falsify the

facts of another observer in another place? I willingly allow that the

north side of a hill retains the snow longer and deeper than the south side,

and this observation applies equally to heights in Bhote; but Humboldt's

theory is on the question of the perpetual snow-line, and Captain Hutton's

reference to Simla and Mussooree, and other mountain sites, are out of place

in this question, or else he fights against a shadow, or an objectioon of

his own creation. In no part of his paper does he quote accurately the

dictum which he wishes to oppose."

If the mean altitude of the thibetian highlands be 11,510 feet, they admit

of comparison with the lovely and fruitful plateau of Caxamarca in Peru.

But at this estimate they would still be 1300 feet lower than the plateau of

Bolivia at the Lake of Titicaca, and the causeway of the town of Potosi.

Ladak, as appears from Vigne's measurement, by determining the

boiling-point, is 9994 feet high. This is probably also the altitude of

H'Lassa (Yul-sung), a monastic city, which Chinese writers describe as the

'realm of pleasure', and which is surrounded by vineyards. Must not these

lie in deep valleys?

As the quantity of moisture in the atmosphere increases with the

temperature, this element, which is so important for the whole organic

creation, must vary with the hours of the day, the seasons of the year, and

the differences in latitude and elevation. Our knowledge of the hygrometric

relations of the Earth's surface has been very materially augmented of late

years by the general application of August's psychrometer, framed in

accordance with the views of Dalton and Daniell, for determining the

relative quantity of vapor, or the

p 333

condition of moisture of the atmosphere, by means of the difference of the

'dew point' and of the temperature of the air. Temperature, atmospheric

pressure, and the direction of the wind, are all intimately connected with

the vivifying action of atmospheric moisture. This influence is not,

however, so much a consequence of the quantity of moisture held in solution

in different zones, as of the nature and frequency of the precipitation

which moistens the ground, whether in the form of dew, mist, rain, or snow.

According to the exposition made by Dove of the law of rotation, and to the

general views of this distinguished physicist,* it would appear that, in our

northern zone, "the elastic force of the vapor is greatest with a southwest,

and least with a northeast wind. On the western side of the windrose this

elasticity diminishes, while it increases on the eastern side; on the former

side, for instance, the cold, dense, and dry current of air repels the

warmer, lighter current containing an abundance of aqueous vapor, while on

the eastern side it is the former current which is repulsed by the latter.

[footnote] *See Dove, 'Meteorologische Vergleichung von Nordamerika und

Europa', in Schumacher's 'Jahrbuch fur' 1841, s. 311; and his

'Meteorologische Untersuchungen', s. 140.

The agreeable and fresh verdure which is observed in many trees in districts

within the tropics, where, for five or seven months of the yeqar, not a

cloud is seen on the vault of heaven, and where no perceptible dew or rain

falls, proves that the leaves are capable of extyracting water from the

atmosphere by a peculiar vital process of their own, which perhaps is not

alone that of producing cold by radiation. The absence of rain in the arid

plains of Cumana, Coro, and Ceara in North Brazil, forms a striking contrast

to the quanitity of rain which falls in some tropical regions, as, for

instance, in the Havana, where it would appear, from the average of six

years' observation by Ramong de la Sagra, the mean annual quantity of rain

is 109 inches, equal to four or five times that which falls at Paris or at

Geneva.*

[footnote] *The mean annual quantity of rain that fell in Paris between

1805 and 1822 was found by Arago to be 20 inches; in London, between 1812

and 1827, it was determined by Howard at 25 inches; while at Geneva the mean

of thirty-two years' observation was 30.5 inches. In Hindostan, near the

coast, the quantity of rain is from 115 to 128 inches; and in the island of

Cuba, fully 142 inches fell in the year 1821. With regard to the

distribution of the quantity of rain in Central Europe, at different periods

of the year, see the admirable researches of Gasparin, Schuow, and Bravais,

in the 'Bibliotheque Universelle', t. xxxvviii., p. 54 and 264; 'Tableau du

Climat de l'Italie', p. 76; and Martins's notes to his excellent French

translation of Kämtz's 'Vorlesungen uber Meteorologie', p. 142.

On the declivity of the Cordilleras,

p 334

the quantity of rain, as well as the temperature, diminishes with the

increase in the elevation.*

[footnote] *According to Boussingault ('Economie Rurale', t. ii., p. 693),

the mean quantity of rain that fell at Marmato (latitude 5 degrees 27',

altitude 4675 feet, and mean temperature 69 degrees) in the years 1833 and

1834 was 64 inches, while at Santa Fe de Bogota (latitude 4 degrees 36',

altitude 8685 feet, and mean temperature 58 degrees) it only amounted to 39

1/2 inches.

My South American fellow-traveler, Caldas, found that, at Santa Fe de

Bogota, at an elevation of almost 8700 feet, it did not exceed 37 inches,

being consequently little more than on some parts of the western shore of

Europe. Boussingault occasionally observed at Quito that Saussure's

hygrometer receded to 26 degrees with a temperature of from 53.6 degrees to

55.4 degrees. Gay-Lussac saw the same hygrometer standing at 25.3 degrees

in his great aerostatic ascent in a stratum of air 7034 feet high, and with

a temperature of 39.2 degrees. The greatest dryness that has yet been

observed on the surface of the globe in the low lands is probably that which

Gustav Rose, Ehrenberg, and myself found in Northern Asia, between the

valleys of the Irtisch and the Oby. In the Steppe of Platowskaja, after

southwest winds had blown for a long time from the interior of the

Continent, with a temperature of 74.7 degrees, we found the dew point at 24

degrees. The air contained only 16/100ths of aqueous vapor.*

[footnote] *For the particulars of this observation, see my 'Asie

Centrale', t. iii., p. 85-89 and 467; and regarding the amount of vapor in

the atmosphere in the lowlands of tropical South America, consult my 'Relat.

Hist.', t. i., p. 242-248; t. ii., p. 45, 164.

The accurate observers Kämtz, Bravais, and Martins have raised doubts

during the last few years regarding the greater dryness of the mountain air,

which appeared to be proved by the hygrometric measurements made by Saussure

and myself in the higher regions of the Alps and the Cordilleras. The

strata of air at Zurich and on the Faulhorn, which can not be considered as

an elevated mountain when compared with non-European elevations, furnished

the data employed in the comparisons made by these observers.*

[footnote] *Kämtz, 'Vorlesungen uber Meteorologie', s. 117.

In the tropical region of the Paramos (near the region where snow begins to

fall, at an elevation of between 12,000 and 14,000 feet), some species of

large flowering myrtle-leaved alpine shrubs are almost constantly bathed in

moisture; but this fqact does not actually prove the existence of any great

and absolute quantity of aqueous vapor at such an elevation, merely affording

p 335

an evidence of the frequency of aqueous precipitation, in like manner as do

the frequent mists with which the lovely plateau of Bogota is covered.

Mists arise and disappear several times in the course of an hour in such

elevations as these, and with a calm state of the atmosphere. These rapid

alternations characterize the Paramos and the elevated plains of the chain

of the Andes.

'The electricity of the atmosphere', whether considered in the lower or in

the upper strata of the clouds, in its silent problematical diurnal course,

or in the explosion of the lightning and thunder of the tempest, appears to

stand in a manifold relation to all phenomena of the distribution of heat,

of the pressure of the atmosphere and its disturbances, of hydrometeoric

exhibitions, and probably, also, of the magnetism of the external crust of

the earth. It exercises a powerful influence on the whole animal and

vegetable world; not merely by meteorological processes, as precipitations

of aqueous vapor, and of the acids and ammoniacal compounds to which it

gives rise, but also directly as an electric force acting on the nerves, and

promoting the circulation of the organic juices. This is not a place in

which to renew the discussion that has been started regarding the actual

source of atmospheric eletricity when the sky is clear, a phenomenon that

has alternately been ascribed to the evaporation of impure fluids

impregnated with earths and salts,* to the growth of plants,** or to some

other chemical decompositions on the surface of the earth, to the unequal

distribution of heat in the strata of the air,*** and, finally, according to

Peltier's intelligent researches,**** to the agency of a constant charge of

negative electricity in the terrestrial globe.

[footnote] *Regarding the conditions of electricity from evaporation at

high temperatures, see Peltier, in the 'Annales de Chimie', t. lxxv., p. 330.

[footnote] **Pouillet, in the 'Annales de Chimie', t. xxxv., p. 405.

[footnote] ***De la Rive, in his admirable 'Essai Historique sur

l'Electricite', p. 140.

[footnote] ****Peltier, in the 'Comptes Rendus de l'Acad. des Sciences', t.

xii., p. 307; Becquerel, 'Traite de l'Electricite et du Magnetisme', t. iv.,

p. 107.

Limiting itself to results yielded by electrometric observations, such, for

instance, as are furnished by the ingenious electro-magnetic apparatus first

proposed by Colladon, the physical description of the universe should merely

notice the incontestable increase of intensity in the general positive

electricity of the atmosphere,* accompanying an increase of altitude and and

the absence of trees, its daily variations (which, according to Clark's

experiments at Dublin,

p 336

take place at more complicated periods than those found by Saussure and

myself), and its variations in the different seasons of the year, at

different distances from the equator, and in the different relations of

continental or oceanic surface.

[footnote] *Duprez, 'Sur l'Electricite de l'Air' (Bruxelles, 1844), p.

56-61.

The electric equilibrium is less frequently disturbed where the aerial ocean

rests on a liquid base than where it impends over the land; and it is very

striking to observe how, in extensive seas, small insular groups affect the

condition of the atmosphere, and occasion the formation of storms. In fogs,

and in the commencement of falls of snow, I have seen, in a long series of

observations, the previously permanent positive electricity rapidly pass

into the negative condition, both on the plains of the colder zones, and in

the Paramos of the Cordilleras, at elevations varying from 11,000 to 15,000

feet. The alternate transition was precisly similar to that indicated by

the electrometer shortly before and during a storm.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Relation Historique', t. iii., p. 318. I here only

refer to those of my experiiments in which the three-foot metallic conductor

of Saussure's electrometer was neither moved upward nor downward, nor,

according to Volta's proposal, armed with burning sponge. Those of my

readers who are well acquainted with the 'quaestiones vexatae' of

atmospheric electricity will understand the grounds for this limitation.

Respecting the formation of storms in the tropics, see my 'Rel. Hist.', t.

ii., p. 45 and 202-209.

When the vesicles of vapor have become condensed into clouds, having

definite outlines, the electric tension of the external surface will be

increased in proportion to the amount of electricity which passes over to it

from the separate vesicles of vapor.*

[footnote] *Gay-Lussac, in the 'Annales de Chimie et de Physique', t.

viii., p. 167. In consequence of the discordant views of Lame, Becquerel,

and Peltier, it is difficult to come to a conclusion regarding the cause of

the specific distribution of electricity in clouds, some of which have a

positive, and others a negative tension. The negative electricity of the

air, which near high water-falls is caused by a disintegration of the drops

of water -- a fact originally noticed by Tralles, and confirmed by myself in

various latitudes -- is very remarkable, and is sufficiently intense to

produce an appreciable effect on a delicate electrometer at a distance of

300 or 400 feet.

Slate-gray clouds are charged, according to Peltier's experiments at Paris,

with negative, and white, red, and orange-colored clouds with positive

electricity. Thunder clouds not only envelop the highest summits of the

chain of the Andes (I have myself seen the electric effect of lightning on

one of the rocky pinnacles which project upward of 15,000 feet above the

crater of the volcano of Toluca), but they have also been observed at a

vertical height of 26,650 feet over the low

p 337

lands in the temperate zone.*

[footnote] *Arago, in the 'Annuaire du Bureau des Longitudes pour' 1838, p.

246.

Sometimes, however, the stratum of cloud from which the thunder proceeds

sinks to a distance of 5000, or, indeed, only 3000 feet above the plain.

According to Arago's investigations -- the most comprehensive that we

possess on this difficult branch of meteorology -- the evolution of light

(lightning) is of three kinds -- zigzag, and sharply defined at the edges;

in sheets of light, illuminating a whole cloud, which seems to open and

refeal the light within it; and in the form of fire-balls.*

[footnote] *Arago, op. cit., p. 249-266. (See also, p. 268-279.)

The duration of the two first kinds scarcely continues the thousandth part

of a second; but the globular lightning moves much more slowly remaining

visible for several seconds. Occasionally (as is proved by the recent

observations, which have confirmed the description given by Nicholson and

Beccaria of this phenomenon), isolated clouds, standing high above the

horizon, continue uninterruptedly for some time to emit a luminous radiance

from their interior and from their margins, although there is no thunder to

be heard, and no indication of a storm; in some cases even hail-stones,

drops of rain, and flakes of snow have been seen to fall in a luminous

condition, when the phenomenon was not preceded by thunder. In the

geographical distribution of storms, the Peruvian coast, which is not

visited by thunder or lightning, presents the most striking contrast to the

rest of the tropical zone, in which, at certain seasons of the year,

thunder-storms occur almost daily, about four or five hours after the sun

has reached the meridian. According to the abundant evidence collected by

Arago* from the testiimony of navigators (Scoresby, Parry, Ross, and

Franklin), there can be no doubt that, in general, electric explosions are

extremely rare in high northern regions (between 70 degrees and 75 degrees

latitude).

[footnote] *Arago, op. cit., p. 388-391. The learned academician Von Baer,

who has done so much for the meteorology of Northern Asia, has not taken

into consideration the extreme rarity of storms in Iceland and Greenland; he

has only remarked ('Bulletin de l'Academie de St. Petersbourg', 1839, Mai)

that in Nova Zembla and Spitzbergen it is sometimes heard to thunder.

'The meteorological portion' of the descriptive history of nature which we

are now concluding shows that the processes of the absorption of light, the

liberation of heat, and the variations in the elastic and electric tension,

and in the hygrometric condition of the vast aerial ocean, are all so

intimately connected together, that each individual meteorological process

is modified by the action of all the others. The complicated

p 338

nature of these disturbing causes (which involuntarily remind us of those

which the near and especially the smallest cosmical bodies, the satellites,

comets, and shooting stars, are subjected to in their course) increases the

difficulty of giving a full explanation of these involved meteorological

phenomena, and likewise limits, or wholly precludes, the possibility of that

predetermination of atmospheric changes which would be so important for

horticulture, agriculture, and navigation, no less than for the comfort and

enjoyment of life. Those who place the value of meteorology in this

problematic species of prediction rather than in the knowledge of the

phenomena themselves, are firmly convinced that this branch of science, on

account of which so many expeditions to distant mountainous regions have

been undertaken, has not made any very considerable progress for centuries

past. The confidence which they refuse to the physicist they yield to

changes of the moon, and to certain days marked in the calendar by the

superstition of a by-gone age.

"Great local deviations from the distribution of the mean temperature are of

rare occurrence, the variations being in general uniformly distributed over

extensive tracts of land. the deviation, after attaining its maximum at a

certain point, gradually decreases to its limits; when these are passed,

however, decided deviations are observed in the 'opposite direction'.

Similar relations of weather extend more frequently from south to north than

from west to east. At the close of the year 1829 (when I had just completed

my Siberian journey), the maximum of cold was at Berlin, while North America

enjoyed an unusually high temperature. It is an entirely arbitrary

assumption to believe that a hot summer succeeds a severe winter, and that a

cool summer is preceded by a mild winter." Opposite relations of weather in

contiguous countries, or in two corn-growing continents, give rise to a

beneficient equalization in the prices of the products of the vine, and of

agricultural and horticultural cultivation. It has been justy remarked,

that it is the barometer alone which indicates to us the changes that occur

in the pressure of the air throughout all the aerial strata from the place

of observation to the extremest confines of the atmosphere, while* the

thermometer and psychrometer only acquaint us with all the variations

occurring in the local heat and moisture of the lower strata of

p 339

air in contact with the ground.

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