We have already seen the slowness with which the great mass of the ocean

follows the variations of temperature in the atmosphere, and how the sea

acts in equalizing temperatures, moderating simultaneously the severity of

winter and the heat of summer. Hence arises a second more important

contrast -- that, namely, between insular and littoral climates enjoyed by

all articulated continents having deeply indented bays and peninsulas, and

between the climate of the interior of great masses of solid land. This

remarkable contrast has been fully

p 322

developed by Leopold von Buch in all its various phenomena, both with

respect to its influence on vegetation and agriculrure, on the transparency

of the atmosphere, the radiation of the soil, and the elevation of the line

of perpetual snow. In the interior of the Asiatic Continent, Tobolsk,

Barnaul on the Oby, and Irkutsk, have the same mean summer heat as Berlin,

Munster, and Cherbourg in Normandy, the thermometer sometimes remaining for

weeks together at 86 degrees or 88 degrees, while the mean winter

temperature is, during the coldest month, as low as -0.4 degrees to -4

degrees. These continental climates have therefore justly been termed

'excessive' by the great mathematician and physicist Buffon; and the

inhabitants who live in countries having such 'excessive' climates seem

almost condemned, as Dante expresses himself,

"A sofferir tormenti caldi e geli."*

[fiitbite] *Dante, 'Divina Commedia, Purgatorio', canto iii.

In no portion of the earth, neither in the Canary Islands, in Spain, nor in

the south of France, have I ever seen more luxuriant fruit, especially

grapes, than in Astrachan, near the shores of the Caspian Sea (46 degrees

21'). Although the mean annual temperature is about 48ºdegrees, the mean

summer heat rises to 70ºdegrees, as at Bordeaux, while not only there, but

also further to the south, as at Kislar on the mouth of the Terek (in the

latitude of Avignon and Rimini), the thermometer sinks in the winter to -13

degrees or -22 degrees.

Ireland, Guernsey, and Jersey, the peninsula of Brittany, the coasts of

Normandy, and of the south of England, present, by the mildness of their

winters, and by the low temperature and clouded sky of their summers, the

most striking contrast to the continental climate of the interior of Eastern

Europe. In the northeast of Ireland (54 degrees 56'), lying under the same

parallel of latitude as Konigsberg in Prussia, the myrtle blooms as

luxuriantly as in Portugal. The mean temperature of the month of August,

which in Hungary rises to 70 degrees, scarcely reaches 61 degrees at Dublin,

which is situated on the same isothermal line of 49 degrees; the mean winter

temperature, which falls to about 28 degrees at Pesth, is 40 degrees at

Dublin (whose mean annual temperature is not more than 49 degrees); 3.6

degrees higher than that of Milan, Pavia, Padua, and the whole of Lombardy,

where the mean annual temperature is upward of 55ºdegrees. At Stromness,

in the Orkneys, scarcely half a degree further south than Stockholm, the

winter temperature is 39 degrees, and consequently higher than that of

Paris, and neary as high as that of London.

p 323

Even in the Faroe Islands, at 62 degrees latitude, the inland waters never

freeze, owing to the favoring influence of the west winds and of the sea.

On the charming coasts of Devonshire, near Salcombe Bay, which has been

termed, on account of the mildness of its climate, the 'Montpellier of the

North', the Agave Mexicana has been seen to blossoom in the open air, while

orange-trees trained against espaliers, and only slightly protected by

matting, are found to bear fruit. There, as well as at Penzance and

Gosport, and at Cherbourg on the coast of Normandy, the mean winter

temperature exceeds 42 degrees, falling short by only 2.4 degrees of the

mean winter temperature of Montpellier and Florence.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Sur les Lignes Isothermes', in the 'Memoires de

Physique et de Chimie de la Societe d'Arcueil', t. iii., Paris, 1817, p.

143-165; Knight, in the 'Transactions of the Horticultural Society of

London', vol. i, p. 32; Watson, 'Remarks on the Geographical Distribution of

British Plants', 1835, p. 60; Trevelyan, in Jemieson's 'Edinburgh New Phil.

Journal', No. 18, p. 154; Mahlmann in his admirable German translation of my

'Asie Centrale', th. ii., s. 60.

These observations will suffice to show the important influence exercised on

vegetation and agriculture, on the cultivation of fruit, and on the comfort

of mankind, by differences in the distribution of the same mean annual

temperature, through the different seasons of the year.

The lines which I have termed 'Isochimenal' and 'isotheral' (lines of equal

winter and equal summer temperature) are by no means parallel with the

'isothermal' lines (lines of equal annual temperature). If, for instance,

in countries where myrtles grow wild, and the earth does not remain covered

with snow in the winter, the temperature of the summer and autumn is barely

sufficient to bring apples to perfect ripeness, and if, again, we observe

that the grape rarely attains the ripeness necessary to convert it into

wine, either in islands or in the vicinity of the sea, even when cultivated

on a western coast, the reason must not be sought only in the low degree of

summer heat, indicated, in littoral situations, by the thermometer when

suspended in the shade, but likewise in another cause that has not hitherto

been sufficiently considered, although it exercises an active influence on

many other phenomena (as, for instance, in the inflammation of a mixture of

chlorine and hydrogen), namely the difference between direct and diffused

light, or that which prevails when the sky is clear and when it is overcast

by mist. I long since endeavored to attract the attention of physicists and

physiologists* to this

p 324

difference, and to the 'unmeasured' heat which is locally developed in the

living vegetable cell by the action of direct light.

[footnote] *"Haec de temperie aeris, qui terram late circumfundit, ac in

quo, longe a solo, instrumenta nostra meteorologica suspensa habemus. Sed

alia est caloris vis, quem radii solis nullis nubibus velati, in foliis

ipsia et fructibus maturescentibus, magis minusve coloratis, gignunt,

quemque, ut egregia demonstrant experimenta amicissimorum Gay-Lussacii et

Thenardi de combustione chlori et hydrogenis, ope thermometri metiri nequis.

Etenim locis planis et montanis, vento libe spirante, circumfusi aeris

temperies cadem esse potest coelo sudo vel nebuloso; ideoque ex

observationibus solis thermometricis, nullo adhibito Photometro, haud

cognosces, quam ob causam Galliae septentrionalis tractur Armoricanus et

Nervicus, versus littora, coe temperato sed sole raro utentia, Vitem fere

non tolerant. Egent enim stirpes non solum caloris stimulo, sed et lucis,

quae magis intensa locis excelsis quam planis, duplici modo plantas movet,

vi sua tum propria, tum calorem in superficie earum excitante." -- Humboldt,

'De Distributione Geographica Plantarum', 1817, p. 163-164.

If, in forming a thermic scale of different kinds of cultivation,* we begin

with those plants which require the hottest climate, as the vanilla, the

cacao, banana, and cocoa-nut, and proceed to the pine-apples, the

sugar-cane, coffee, fruit-bearing date-trees, the cotton-tree, citrons,

olives, edible chestnuts, and fines producing potable wine, an exact

geographical consideration of the limits of cultivation, both on plains and

on the declivities of mountains, will teach us that other climatic relations

besides those of mean annual temperature are involved in these phenomena.

[footnote] *Humboldt, op. cit., p. 156-161; Meyen, in his 'Grundriss der

Pflanzengeographie', 1836 s. 379-467; Boussingault, 'Economie Rurale', t.

ii., p. 675.

Taking an example, for instance, from the cultivation of the vine, we find

that, in order to procure 'potable' wine,* it is requisite that the mean

annual heat should exceed 49 degrees, that the winter temperature upward of

64 degrees.

[footnote] *the following table illustrates the cultivation of the vine in

Europe, and also the depreciation of its produce according to climatic

relations. See my 'Asie Centrale', t. iii., p. 159. The examples quoted in

the text for Bordeaux and Potsdam are, in respect of numerical relation,

alike applicable to the countries of the Rhine and Maine (48 degrees 35' to

40 degrees 7' N. lat.). Cherbourg in Normandy, and Ireland, show in th most

remarkable manner how, with thermal relations very nearly similar to those

prevailing in the interior of the Continent (as estimated by the thermometer

in the shade), the results are nevertheless extremely different as regards

the ripeness or the unripeness of the fruit of the vine, this difference

undoubtedly depending on the circumstance whether the vegetation of the

plant proceeds under a bright sunny sky, or under a sky that is habitually

obscured by clouds:

[NB Table will line up in Courier 10 point]

_____________________________________________________________________

Places. Lat- Ele- Mean Win- Spring. Sum- Aut- Number of the

it- va- of the ter. mer. umn. years of the

tude tion. Year. observation

_____________________________________________________________________

deg ' Eng.ft. Fahr.

Bordeaux 44 50 25.6 57.0 43.0 56.0 71.0 58.0 10

Stras- 48 35 479.0 49.6 34.5 50.0 64.6 50.0 35

bourg

Heid- 49 24 333.5 59.5 34.0 50.0 64.3 49.7 20

elberg

Manheim 49 29 300.5 50.6 34.6 50.8 67.1 49.5 12

Wurzburg 49 48 562.5 50.2 35.5 50.5 65.7 49.4 27

Frank-

fort on

Maine 50 7 388.5 49.5 33.3 50.0 64.4 49.4 19

Berlin 52 31 102.3 47.5 31.0 46.6 63.6 47.5 23

Cher-

bourg (no

wine) 49 39 .... 52.1 41.5 50.8 61.7 54.2 3

Dublin

(ditto) 53 23 .... 49.1 40.2 47.1 59.6 49.7 13

___________________________________________________________________

The great accordance in the distribution of the annual temperature through

the different seasons, as presented by the results obtained for the valleys

of the Rhine and Maine, tends to confirm the accuracy of these

meteorological observations. The months of December, January, and February

are reckoned as winter months. When the different qualities of the wines

produced in Franconia, and in the countries around the Baltic, are compared

with the mean summer and autumn temperature of Wurzburg and Berlin, we are

almost surprised to find a difference of only about two degrees. The

difference in the spring is about four degrees. The influence of late May

frosts on the flowering season, and after a correspondingly cold winter, is

almost as important an element as the time of the subsequent ripening of the

grape. The difference alluded to in the text between the true temperature

of the surface of the ground and the indications of a thermometer suspended

in the shade and protected from extraneous influences, is inferred by Dove

from a consideration of the results of fifteen years' observations made at

the Chiswick Gardens. See Dove, in 'Bericht uber die Verhandl. der Berl.

Akad. der Wiss.', August, 1844, s. 285.

At Bordeaux, in the valley of the Garonne (44 degrees 50' lat.), the mean

annual winter, summer, and autumn temperatures are respectively 57 degrees,

43 degrees, 71 degrees, and 58 degrees. In the plains near the

p 325

Baltic (52 degrees 30' lat.), where a wine is produced that can scarcely be

considered potable, these numbers are as follows: 47.5 degrees, 30 degrees,

63.7 degrees, and 47.5 degrees. If it should appear strange that the great

differences indicated by the influence of climate on the production of wine

should not be more clearly manifested by our thermometers, the circumstance

will appear less singular when we remember that a thermometer standing in

the shade, and protected from the effect of direct insolation and nocturnal

radiation can not, at all seasong of the year, and during all periodic

changes of heat, indicate the true superficial temperature of the ground

exposed to the whole effect of the sun's rays.

The same relations which exist between the equable littoral climate of the

peninsula of Brittany, and the lower winter and

p 326

higher summer temperature of the remainder of the continent of France, are

likewise manifested in some degree, between Europe and the great continent

of Asia, of which the former may be considered to constitute the western

peninsula. Europe owes its milder climate, in the first place, to its

position with respect to Africa, whose wide extent of tropical land is

favorable to the ascending current, while the equatorial region to the south

of Asia is almost wholly oceanic; and next to its deeply-articulated

configuration, to the vicinity of the ocean on its western shores; and,

lastly, to the existence of an open sea, which bounds its northern confines.

Europe would therefore become colder* if Africa were to be overflowed by

the ocean; of if the mythical Atlantis were to arise and connect Europe with

North America; or if the Gulf Stream were no longer to diffuse the warming

influence of its waters into the North Sea; or if, finally, another mass of

solid land should be upheaved by volcanic action, and interposed between the

Scandinavian peninsula and Spitzbergen.

[footnote] *See my memoir, 'Ueber die Haupt-Ursachen der

Temperaturverschiedenheit auf der Erdoberfläche', in the 'Abhandl. der

Akad. der Wissensch. zu Berlin von dem Jahr' 1827, s. 311.

If we observe that in Europe the mean annual temperature falls as we

proceed, from west to east, under the same parallel of latitude, from the

Atlantic shores of France through Germany, Poland, and Russia, toward the

Uralian Mountains, the main cause of this phenomenon of increasing cold must

be sought in the form of the continent (which becomes less indented, and

wider, and more compact as we advance), in the increasing distance from

seas, and in the diminished influence of westerly winds. Beyond the Uralian

Mountains these winds are converted into cool land-winds, blowing over

extended tracts covered with ice and show. The cold of western Siberia is

to be ascribed to these relations of configuration and atmospheric currents,

and not -- as Hippocrates and Trogus Pompeius, and even celebrated travelers

of the eighteenth century conjectures -- to the great elevation of the soil

above the level of the sea.*

[footnote] *The general level of Siberia, from Tobolsk, Tomsk, and Barnaul,

from the Altai Mountains to the Polar Sea, is not so high as that of Mauheim

and Dresden; indeed, Irkutsk, far to the east of the Jenisei, is only 1330

feet above the level of the sea, or about one third lower than Munich.

If we pass from the differences of temperature manifested in the plains to

the inequalities of the polyhedric form of the surface of our planet, we

shall have to consider mountains either in relation to their influence on

the climate of neighboring

p 327

valleys, or according to the effects of the hyposometrical relations on

their own summits, which often spread into elevated plateaux. The division

of mountains into chains separates the earth's surface into different

basins, which are often narrow and walled in, forming caldron-like valleys,

and (as in Greece and in part of Asia Minor) constitute an individual local

climate with respect to heat, moisture, transparancy of atmosphere, and

frequency of winds and storms. These circumstances have at all times

exercised a powerful influence on the character and cultivation of natural

products, and on the manners and institutions of neighboring nations, and

even on the feelings with which they regard one another. This character of

'geographical individuality' attains its maximum, if we may be allowed so to

speak, in countries where the differences in the configuration of the soil

are the greatest possible, either in a vertical or horizontal direction,

both in relief and in the articulation of the continent. The greatest

contrast to these varieties in the relations of the surface of the earth are

manifested in the Steppes of Northern Asia, the grassy plains (savannahs,

llanos, and pampas) of the New Continent, the heath ('Ericeta') of Europe,

and the sandy and stony deserts of Africa.

The law of the decrease of heat with the increase of elevation at different

latitudes is one of the most important subjects involved in the study of

meteorological processes, of the geography of plants, of the theory of

terrestrial refraction, and of the various hypotheses that relate to the

determination of the height of the atmosphere. In the many mountain

journeys which I have undertaken, both within and without the tropics, the

investigation of this law has always formed a special object of my

researches.*

[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Recueil d'Observations Astronomiques', t. i., p.

126-140; 'Relation Historique', t. i., p. 119, 141, 227; Biot, in

'Connaissance des Temps pour l'an' 1841, p. 90-109.

Since we have acquired a more accurate knowledge of the true relations of

the distribution of heat on the surface of the earth, that is to say, of the

inflections of isothermal and isotheral lines, and their unequal distance

apart in the different eastern and western systems of temperature in Asia,

Central Europe, and North America, we can no longer ask the general

question, what fraction of the mean annual or summer temperature corresponds

to the difference of one degree of geographical latitude, taken in the same

meridian? In each system of 'isothermal' lines of equal curvature there

reigns a

p 328

close and necessary connection between three elements, namely, the decrease

of heat in a vertical direction from below upward, the difference of

temperature for every one degree of geographical latitude, and the

uniformity in the mean temperature of a mountain station, and the latitude

of a point situated at the level of the sea.

In the system of Eastern America, the mean annual temperature from the coast

of Labrador to Boston changes 1.6ºdegrees for every degree of latitude;

from Boston to Charleston about 1.7 degrees; from Charleston to the tropic

of Cancer, in Cuba, the variation is less rapid, being only 1.2 degrees. In

the tropics this diminution is so much greater, that from the Havana to

Cumana the variation is less than 0.4 degrees for every degree of latitude.

The case is quite different in the isothermal system of Central Europe.

Between the parallels of 38 degrees and 71 degrees I found that the decrease

of temperature was very regularly 0.9degrees for every degree of latitude.

But as, on the other hand, in Central Europe the decrease of heat is 1.8

degrees for about every 534 feet of vertical elevation, it follows that a

difference of elevation of about 267 feet corresponds to the difference of

one degree of latitude. The same mean annual temperature as that occurring

at the Convent of St. Bernard, at an elevation of 8173 feet, in lat. 45

degrees 50' should therefore be met with at the level of the sea in lat. 75

degrees 50'.

In that part of the Cordilleras which falls within the tropics, the

observations I made at various heights, at an elevation of upward of 19,000

feet, gave a decrease of 1 degree for every 341 feet; and my friend

Boussingault found, thirty years afterward, as a mean result, 319 feet. By

a comparison of places in the Cordilleras, lying at an equal elevation above

the level of the sea, either on the declivities of the mountains or even on

extensive elevated plateaux, I observed that in the latter there was an

increase in the annual temperature varying from 2.7 degrees to 4.1 degrees.

This difference would be still greater if it were not for the cooling effect

of nocturnal radiation. As the different climates are arranged in

successive strata, the one above the other, from the cacao woods of the

valleys to the region of perpetual snow, and as the temperature in the

tropics varies but little throughout the year, we may form to ourselves a

tolerably correct representation of the climatic relations to which the

inhabitants of the large cities in the Andes are subjected, by comparing

these climates with the temperatures of particular months in the plains of

France and Italy. While

p 329

the heat which prevails daily on the woody shores of the Orinoco exceeds by

7.2 degrees that of the month of August at Palermo, we find, on ascending

the chain of the Andes, at Popayan, at an elevation of 3826 feet, the

temperature of the three summer months of Marseilles; at Quito, at an

elevation of 9541 feet, that of the close of May at Paris; and on the

Paramos, at a height of 11,510 feet, where only stunted Alpine shrubs grow,

though flowers still bloom in abundance, that of the beginning of April at

Paris. The intelligent observer, Peter Martyr de Aughiera, one of the

friends of Christopher Columbus, seems to have been the first who recognized

(in the expedition undertaken by Rodrigo Enrique Colmenares, in October,

1510) that the limit of perpetual snow continues to ascend as we approach

the equator. We read, in the fine work 'De Rebus Oceanicis',* "the River

Gaira comes from a mountain in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Maria, which,

according to the testimony of the companions of Colmenares, is higher than

any other mountain hitherto discovered.

[footnote] *Anglerius, 'De Rebus Oceanicis', Dec. xi., lib. ii., p. 140

(ed. Col., 1574). In the Sierra de Santa Marta, the highest point of which

appears to exceed 19,000 feet (see my 'Relat. Hist.', t. ii., p. 214), there

is a peak that is still called Pico de Gaira.

It must undoubtedly be so if 'it retain snow perpetually' in a zone which is

not more than 10 degrees from the equinoctial line." The lower limit of

perpetual snow, in a given latitude, is the lowest line at which snow

continues during summer, or, in other words, it is the maximum of height to

which the snow-line recedes in the course of the year. But this elevation

must be distinguished from three other phenomena, namely, the annual

fluctuation of the snow-line, the occurrence of sporadic falls of snow, and

the existence of glaciers, which appear to be peculiar to the temperate and

cold zones. This last phenomenon, since Saussure's immortal work on the

Alps, has received much light, in recent times, from the labors of Venetz,

Charpentier, and the intrepid and persevering observer Agassiz.

We know only the 'lower', and not the 'upper' limit of perpetual snow; for

the mountains of the earth do not attain to those ethereal regions of the

rarefied and dry strata of air, in which we may suppose, with Bouguer, that

the vesicles of aqueous vapor are converted into crystals of ice, and thus

rendered perceptible to our organs of sight. The lower limit of snow is

not, however, a mere function of geographical latitude or of mean annual

temperature; nor is it at the equator, or

p 330

even, in the region of the tropics, that this limit attains its greatest

elevation above the level of the sea. The phenomenon of which we are

treating is extremely complicated, depending on the general relations of

temperature and humidity, and on the form of the mountains. On submitting

these relations to the test of special analysis, as we may be permitted to

do from the number of determinations that have recently been made,* we shall

find that the controlling causes are the differences in the temperature of

different seasons of the year; the direction of the prevailing winds and

their relations to this land and sea; the degree of dryness or humitidy in

the upper strata of the air; the absolute thickness of the accumulated

masses of fallen snow; the relation of the s-line to the total height of the

mountain; the relative position of the latter in the chain to which it

belongs, and the steepness of its declivity; the vicinity of either summits

likewise perpetually covered with show; the expansion, position, and

elevation of the plains from which the snow mountain rises as an isolated

peak or as a portion of a chain; whether this plain be part of the

sea-coast, or of the interior of a continent; whether it be covered with

wood or waving grass; and whether, finally, it consist of a dry and rocky

soil, or of a wet and marshy bottom.

[footnote] *See my table of the height of the line of perpetual snow, in

both hemispheres, from 71 degrees 15' north lat. to 53 degrees 54' south

lat., in my 'Asie Centrale', t. iii., p. 360.

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