Occurrences at Fort Hope during the absence of the exploring
party--Remove from winter quarters to tents--Sun seen at
midnight--Build an oven and bake bread--Esquimaux method of
catching seals--A concert--Lateness of the summer--A native
salmon-wear--Salmon spear--Boulders on the surface of the
ice--Visited by a native from the Ooglit Islands--His report of
occurrences at Igloolik--Indolence of the natives--Ice breaking
up--Halkett's air-boat--A storm--The ice dispersed--Prepare for
sea.
During my absence from Fort Hope little beyond the usual occurrences of
the winter had taken place. The latter part of May was remarkable for
the great quantity of snow that fell, with gales of wind and drift,
which kept the men almost continually clearing away snow from the roofs
of our houses. They were obliged even to go to work during the night,
and notwithstanding all the care that was taken, two of the boats' yards
were broken, and the masts very nearly shared a like fate, as the post
placed under them gave way. For so great a quantity of snow lodging on
our roof, the man left in charge was to blame, as shortly after my
departure he had the snow thrown up in heaps, which, when the stormy
weather and snow-drift came on, caused drift-banks to be raised to an
equal height (about 4-1/2 feet) on the tops of our dwellings.
During all this time the thermometer never fell lower than +9 deg., which
was on the 16th of May, and rose as high as +45 deg., at mid-day on the
29th. The last day of May was very stormy; but on the 1st of June the
weather changed for the better, although the thermometer was as low as
+12 deg. On this day the first geese (laughing geese) and some sandpipers
were seen, and one of each was shot. As the partridges were migrating
northward about thirty had been killed, and there was a good stock of
venison in store, the hunters having shot twenty deer. The does were now
very large with young, and had become very poor; the bucks were,
however, improving in condition.
The Esquimaux had brought in little for trade, a few pairs of boots,
which were soon bought up by the men, and a little oil from Akkeeoulik
being the principal articles. Some of them were getting short of
provisions, not having been able to find a "cache" which they went for.
They had all behaved well, not having committed any thefts that could be
discovered. We had, however, one most incorrigible thief among our
party, Ouligbuck's son, who, during the few days of his fathers absence,
was twice caught with the old man's bale open, eating sugar; some
tobacco was also taken, and the trousers of most of the men were
completely cleared of buttons by the same hands. On my return only one
family of Esquimaux (Shimakuk's) remained near us. Shimakuk had been
waiting for his dogs, which were with the party who had gone in search
of meat.
On the 13th divine service was read, and thanks returned to the Almighty
for His protection throughout the winter and during the late journey.
There was a strong breeze of N. wind, with frequent showers of snow.
House very damp; the clay falling from the inside of the walls.
14th.--The weather was fine and permitted us to get our flour, pemmican,
&c., removed from the meat store (which was now dropping much from the
roof) to the rocks, where it was well covered up with oilcloths.
The 20th was a most stormy day with occasional showers--wind N.W. There
was a considerable stream of water running on the ice of North Pole
River, forming large pools on the sea-ice, through which it did not yet
find a free exit.
21st.--There was a change in the weather for the better, although it
still blew a gale; however, as the day advanced the wind became more
moderate, and about noon shifted round to the south.
The water was rising fast in all the creeks, showing that the process of
destruction was fast going on among the snow and ice. The latter was
still nearly four feet thick on the lakes, but very porous.
The great rise of water in the creeks and small streams rendered it
very unpleasant and even dangerous to cross them. In attempting to get
near some geese this day I sunk to the waist amidst snow and water, and
not being able to get any firm footing, I found much difficulty in
scrambling out without wetting my gun.
23rd.--This being a fine day, all the men were employed dismantling the
house and carrying down the provisions, clothes, &c. to the summer
tents, which had been pitched about 300 yards nearer the shore. Two
leather tents were put up for cooking in. We saw the sun at midnight,
his lower limb touching the high grounds to the northward.
We made some bread in an oven which we had built of stones cemented with
clay of an excellent quality. The upper part of our first batch was well
baked, but the floor of the oven was not sufficiently warm to bake the
lower part. It however rose well, and we afterwards succeeded in making
excellent bread, though the oven was heated with heather.[4]
15th July.--Weather still stormy and cold to the feelings, the
thermometer being +35 deg. The water of North Pole Lake had broken
through its barrier of snow and ice, and was rushing down the river with
great force, carrying with it large masses of ice.
All the men except Flett, who remained at the tents, and Germain, who
had charge of the nets, went to North Pole Lake on the 19th to bring
down the boat. The river being one continued rapid throughout its whole
length, with not an eddy to stop in, they came down at rather a quick
rate, but were compelled to stop within a few hundred yards of the salt
water, on account of the shallowness and the number of stones.
Twenty-two salmon were caught, some in good condition, others very soft
and thin. The former contained roe about the eighth of an inch in
diameter.
A number of Esquimaux arrived for the purpose of catching salmon, having
finished their seal hunting, which had been successful, although the
number killed could not be ascertained. Our old friends were accompanied
by three strangers, viz., an old man and two young ones, with their
wives and families. Our travelling companion Ivitchuk had shot some deer
with his gun, but having spent nearly all his ammunition, he requested
and obtained a small additional stock.
Another Esquimaux, a jolly old fellow, with two wives, joined the party
here; he had come from the direction of Wager River this spring on the
ice. He and one or two more old men were nearly starved to death last
winter, being so much reduced that they could not walk. Twenty-three
salmon were got from the nets; some of these were in very poor
condition being evidently out of season; others were in fine order and
full of roe.
22nd.--One of the old Esquimaux at the fishery speared a seal on the ice
near the edge of the open water, but it got away in consequence of the
line breaking. Their mode of approaching the seal requires much patience
and is very fatiguing, as the hunter must lie flat on his face or on his
side, and advance towards the seal by a series of motions resembling
those of the animal itself. He has frequently to proceed in this way
some hundred yards, but so well does he act his part that he can get
within a few feet of his object, and a looker-on would find much
difficulty in telling which was the man and which the seal.
The seal actually comes to meet the hunter, who, as soon as it has got
some distance from its hole, springs up and intercepts its return. The
women are very expert at this mode of hunting, and frequently having no
spear, use a small club of wood with which they strike the seal on the
nose.
The greater part of the Esquimaux were encamped about a quarter of a
mile from us, and had a _concert_ every night,--a union of the vocal and
the instrumental. Their only musical instrument is a sort of drum or
tambourine, consisting of a stout wooden hoop, about 30 inches in
diameter, round which, when it is to be used, a wet parchment deer skin
is stretched. In beating this rough instrument, the hoop, not the skin,
is struck. The performer being in the centre of the tent, keeps turning
slowly round, whilst four or five women add their voices to the
execrable sound, producing among them most horrible discord. Each of the
men in his turn takes up the drum and thumps away till he is tired, when
he lays it down and another takes his place, and so on it goes until it
has passed through the hands of all the males of the party, including
the boys.
The whole of the natives, with the exception of a few old people who
were remaining at the fishing station, and three young men and their
wives, went the following day to an island four miles off for the
purpose of killing more seals, and also to put new covers on their canoe
frames.
25th.--This was the anniversary of our arrival here last year; and
certainly everything wore a very different aspect from what it then did.
Last summer at this date there was no ice to be seen in Repulse Bay; the
snow had nearly all disappeared, and the various streams had shrunk to
their lowest level. _Now_ there was not a pool of water in the bay,
except where the entrance of a river or creek had worn away or broken up
the ice for a short distance. There was much snow on the ground in many
places, and most of the streams were still deep and rapid.
The musquitoes were rather troublesome; but this I was not sorry for, as
the Esquimaux said that the ice in the bay would soon break up after
these tormentors made their appearance.
As our native friends were now getting sufficient fish to maintain them,
they required no further assistance from us at present. Their mode of
catching salmon is a very simple one. They build a barrier of stones
about 1-1/2 or 2 feet high across a creek, some distance below high-water
mark. The salmon, which keep close to the shore at this season, are by
this means, during the ebb of the tide, cut off from the sea, and are
easily speared. About sixty were thus killed this day. The spear used is
usually made of two diverging pieces of musk-ox horn, from 4 to 5 inches
apart at the extremities; between these there is a prong of bone about 3
or 4 inches shorter than the outer ones. Each of the longer prongs is
furnished with a barb on its inner side, made of a bent nail or piece of
bone, which prevents the fish from escaping. The handle is 6 or 8 feet
long. The head of the instrument much resembles a three-pronged fork,
with the middle prong a little shorter than the others.
The moon was full this day. High-water at 45 minutes past noon. Arkshuk,
Shimakuk, and Kei-ik-too-oo visited us on the 28th, bringing a few pairs
of boots for sale. The tins which contained preserved meat, and table
knives and forks, were in great demand among these good folks. One of
the ladies to whom I gave a fork, used it as neatly in eating fish as if
she had been accustomed to it from childhood. Thermometer as high as
+60 deg. in the shade.
The ice in the bay had broken up for more than a mile from the shore
opposite the mouth of the river, but some distance out it looked as
white and firm as ever.
I had for some time observed that large stones, some of them of one or
two tons weight, were making their appearance on the ice; and I was much
puzzled to make out how they came there. They could not have fallen from
the shore, as the beach was sloping at the place, nor had they been
carried in by drift ice of the previous season. The only way that I
could account for it was this. At the commencement of winter the ice
layer acquiring considerable thickness, had become frozen to the stones
lying on the bottom, and raised them up when the tide came in. The
stones would get gradually enclosed in the ice as it grew thicker by
repeated freezings, whilst by the process of evaporation, which goes on
very rapidly in the spring, the upper surface was continually wasting
away, so that in June and July there was little of the first formed ice
remaining, and thus the stones which at first were on the under surface
of the ice appeared on the top. This may perhaps in some measure account
for boulders, sand, shells, &c. being sometimes found where geologists
fancy they ought not to be. Ice has been time out of mind the great
"conveyancer."
August 1st.--We were visited this day by an Esquimaux named I-ik-tu-ang,
whom I had not before seen. He had passed the winter near the Ooglit
Islands, a few days' journey from Igloolik. He said that, when a boy, he
was frequently on board the Fury and Hecla in 1822-23, and that the
"Kabloonans" killed a number of walruses, and some black whales, with
two small boats; that the walruses were put in "cache" for them (the
Esquimaux), who were rather short of provisions at the time, and that
they received the _skins_ of the whales. They had abundance of
provisions last winter, but were visited by a very fatal disease--from
what I learnt of the symptoms, resembling influenza--which carried off
twenty-one grown-up persons. The children were not attacked with this
complaint. Two of the party at Igloolik had been reduced to the
necessity of putting to death and eating two children, to save
themselves from starvation.
Four men, whilst hunting the sea-horse with their canoes lashed
together, were assaulted by this fierce animal, struck down with his
formidable tusks, their canoes capsized and broken, and the whole party
drowned. Another poor fellow having early in the winter harpooned a
walrus through a hole in the ice, was dragged into the water before he
could disengage himself from the line. The ice being still thin and
transparent, the body was found a few days after.
I-ik-tu-ang also informed me--as I had already supposed from various
appearances--that there is open water throughout the winter between this
and the Frozen Strait, through which a strong current runs with the
flow and ebb of the tide,--so strong is it that when bears are pursued
and take the water, they are often swept under the ice and drowned.
In the afternoon two more Esquimaux with their wives from the same
quarter, accompanied by Akkee-ou-lik and his family, made their
appearance.
Some of the natives who had taken up their quarters near us were
supplied daily with fish. They appeared quite as indolent as most of the
other savage tribes of America, and never thought of looking out for
food, so long as they could get enough to support life from us. Although
they had a wear made for confining the salmon, they would not take the
trouble to spear them when in it.
We endeavoured to get some young marmots, but without success. I find
that these curious little animals leave their winter habitations, which
are usually formed in dry sandy banks, as soon as the snow has in a
great measure disappeared, and take up their summer residence among the
rocks, where, I have no doubt, they are much safer from their numerous
enemies.
The weather was still fine on the 6th, but it appeared to have little
effect on the ice in the bay, which still remained hard and fast. All
the largest and deepest lakes were covered with strong ice.
9th.--On looking out this morning I was happy to see a lane of open
water stretching completely across the bay, but there was still a strong
barrier between us and the south point, although a passage to the
northward might easily have been made. The nets produced eighty salmon,
the greater part of which were given to the Esquimaux. The fishery was
now abandoned, as we could procure close at hand as many salmon as we
required.
During the whole of our spring fishing Halkett's air-boat was used for
setting and examining the nets, and was preferred by the fishermen to
the large canvas canoe, as it was much lighter, and passed over and
round the nets with more facility. Notwithstanding its continued use on
a rocky shore, it never required the slightest repair. It is altogether
a most useful little vessel, and, as I have said before, ought to form
part of the equipment of all surveying parties, whether by land or sea.
The men from the fishery were followed soon after by the Esquimaux with
their baggage, which it took more than a dozen trips of our canoe to
ferry over.
The large lakes were still covered with a thick coat of ice. There were
a great many seals in the open water, and some of the fish in the nets
had been eaten by them.
10th.--A storm from the north with rain and snow until noon, when the
wind somewhat abated, and the weather cleared up. Great havoc was made
among the ice, and in the evening there was a clear sea as far as the
point of the bay.
11th.--There was a gale of wind all day with rain occasionally--the
weather cold and unpleasant. We were all busily employed in preparing
for sea. All the snow-banks for six or eight feet from the ground having
been converted into solid ice soon after the spring thaw commenced, we
had to dig out the chain and anchor of one of the boats, which were
buried under ice of that thickness; yet on the very spot where this
chain and anchor lay, there was not a particle of either ice or snow on
the 25th July last year; such is the variable nature of this northern
climate.
In the afternoon Nibitabo was sent to endeavour to get some fresh
venison for our voyage, and shot two young deer; St. Germain and Mineau
set the nets for a supply of salmon, and I was busy distributing among
the Esquimaux axes, files, knives, scissors, &c. &c. &c.
The large lakes were still covered with ice, but in the bay there was
little or none to be seen.
FOOTNOTE:
[4] Receipt.--Seven lbs. flour, 1 oz. carbonate soda, 3/4 oz. citric
acid, 3/4 oz. common salt, water (cold), about 1/2 gallon. The salt,
soda, and acid being finely powdered and dry, are to be well mixed
together; this mixture being well wrought up with the dry flour, the
water is to be added in 2 or 3 parts and mingled with the flour as
quickly as possible; the dough being put into pans is immediately to be
placed in the oven.