Preparations for exploring the coast of Melville
Peninsula--Outfit--Leave Fort Hope--Pass over numerous
lakes--Guide at fault--Dease Peninsula--Arrive at the
sea--Fatigue party sent back to Fort Hope--Barrier of
ice--Lefroy Bay--Large island named after the Prince of
Wales--Detained by stormy weather--Short allowance--Cape Lady
Simpson--Selkirk Bay--Snow knee-deep--Capes Finlayson and
Sibbald--Deer shot--A cooking scene--Favourite native
relish--Again stopped by stormy weather--Cape M'Loughlin--Two
men left to hunt and fish--Cape Richardson--Chain of
islands--Garry Bay--Prince Albert range of hills--Cape
Arrowsmith--Coast much indented--Baker Bay--Provisions
fail--Proceed with one man--Cape Crozier--Parry Bay--Cape
Ellice, the farthest point seen--Take possession--Commence our
return--No provisions procured by the men left behind--Short
commons--Flock of cranes--Snow-blindness--Arrive at Repulse Bay.
On the 12th of May preparations were commenced for a journey along the
west side of Melville Peninsula. In expectation of falling in with much
rough ice, I determined on taking dogs only for the first three days of
the journey. The party was to consist of Corrigal (our snow-house
builder), Folster, Matheson, and Mineau, with Ouligbuck as deer-hunter
and interpreter. A fatigue party of two men, and an Esquimaux with a
sledge and good team of dogs, were to accompany us for three days, which
I supposed would be the time required to reach the coast.
Our provisions for the journey were two bags of pemmican, each 90 lbs.,
70 reindeer tongues weighing nearly 30 lbs., 36 lbs. flour, and a little
tea, chocolate, and sugar. We took also a gallon and a half of alcohol
and a small quantity of oil.
Leaving George Flett in charge at Fort Hope, we started at 10 P.M. on
the 13th of May, and directed our course towards a chain of lakes in
nearly a due north direction. Although the snow was soft, and we had
some rather steep rising grounds to pass over, we made good progress,
and after crossing six small lakes we came to some high table-land, on
which the snow was very deep, and in which the sledge sank very much. A
walk of four miles brought us to another lake of considerable size. A
little after 6 A.M. on the 14th, we found some snow huts that had been
inhabited during part of the winter by the Esquimaux Ecouchi, and soon
had one of them cleared out for the accommodation of the party.
Although we had not travelled much more than twenty miles, Ouligbuck was
so fatigued that I determined to send him back with those who were to
return to Repulse Bay. We saw no game and only very few tracks of deer.
The weather was so cloudy that no meridian observation of the sun could
be obtained. Our latitude was 66 deg. 52' N., and longitude 86 deg. 46'
W., both by account.
We resumed our march at 9 P.M. on the 14th, the night being calm, with a
little snow falling. A brisk walk of two miles to the N.W. brought us to
the end of the lake, when we followed the bed of a small stream to the
northward for five miles. Two narrow lakes were next traversed, when our
guide, who appeared to know little about the proper route, led us to the
N.W.; and after crossing five lakelets, and as many short portages, at
half-past 6 A.M. we came to a body of water about the size of that near
which we had encamped the day before. Here we stopped for the day. The
ice on this lake was six feet thick, and gave the men much trouble to
cut through it. There was very little fuel to be found; we were
therefore obliged to burn part of the small quantity of oil we had taken
with us. By a meridian observation our latitude was 67 deg. 5' 3" N.,
variation of the compass 53 deg. 30' W., and longitude by account 87 deg.
8' 54" W. The west side of the creek, and also of the lakes which we
passed over this day, was steep and rocky, although not high; the east
sides were more sloping.
It was near 10 o'clock at night when we commenced our journey. After an
hour's walk we came to the north end of the lake, but our young
Esquimaux never having been here before (which was rather surprising, as
his usual winter home was not more than ten miles distant), was quite
at a loss what direction to take. It would have been quite easy for me
to have made a straight course by compass, but by doing so we were very
likely to get among ground so uneven, as to be impassable to the dogs
and sledge. We now turned to the east of north, and after crossing a
number of small lakes, arrived at the sea (which here formed a deep
inlet) at a few minutes before midnight. Proceeding down the inlet,
which for a couple of leagues was not more than half a mile wide, with
steep rocky shores (in some places precipitous), we came to rough ice,
and found that there were apparently two openings leading to the
northward. I chose the one to the left, but we had not gone more than a
mile-and-a-half, when we found that we were in an arm of the inlet, and
that the land to the north of us, which I had supposed to be an island,
was joined to the mainland by an isthmus not more than 50 yards wide.
This peninsula I named after P. W. Dease, Esq., the able leader, in
conjunction with T. Simpson, of the expeditions which explored so large
a portion of the Arctic shores in 1837, 1838, and 1839.
Retracing our steps, we now followed the opening to the right, in which
there were great quantities of rough ice, over which we advanced but
slowly. The inlet (to which I had given the name of Cameron, after a
friend), soon became broader and the ice less rough. At 7 A.M. on the
16th we arrived at the Cape, which last autumn had been named after the
late Thomas Simpson, whose agreeable duty it would have been, had he
survived, to accomplish the survey which I was now endeavouring to bring
to a successful termination. The shores here were very barren, there
being little or no vegetation to be seen, except small patches in the
crevices of the rocks. In a small lake near our encampment, from which
we obtained water, the ice was found to be five feet thick. A sufficient
quantity of fuel was gathered to boil our kettle, and two hares were
shot by Corrigal. We here made a "cache" of some pemmican, flour, &c.
for our return journey. Our snow hut was built on the south side of the
cape, under shelter of rocks, near which there were two small islands.
The sledge was to be sent back to Repulse Bay from this place, and with
it Ouligbuck, who from his inability to walk would have been an
incumbrance to us. The weather was so cloudy that no observation could
be obtained. Our latitude by account was 67 deg. 22' (which I afterwards
found by observation to be nearly three miles too far north), longitude
87 deg. 3' W. The whole of these three days' journeys had been measured
with a well stretched line, but this we could not expect to carry on
further, as each person would have enough to do with his load.
Bidding adieu to our companions who were to return to Fort Hope, we
commenced our journey at half-past 8 P.M., each of my men being laden
with about 70 lbs., whilst I carried my instruments, books, and some
other articles, weighing altogether 40 lbs. This was but a light burden
for me, but as I had to examine different objects on the route, and also
to lead the way, I found it quite enough.
As soon as we had fairly rounded Cape T. Simpson, the coast turned to
the eastward, and became indented with narrow but deep inlets, all of
which were packed full of rough ice. Walking became most difficult. At
one moment we sank nearly waist-deep in snow, at another we were up to
our knees in salt water, and then again on a piece of ice so slippery
that, with our wet and frozen shoes, it was impossible to keep from
falling. Sometimes we had to crawl out of a hole on all fours like some
strange-looking quadrupeds; at other times falling backwards we were so
hampered by the weight of our loads, that it was impossible to rise
without throwing them off, or being assisted by one of our companions.
We therefore found it better to follow the shores of the inlets than to
cross them, although by doing so we had double the distance to go over.
Numerous traces of hares were seen, but we could not afford to lose time
in following them.
After passing four inlets having some small islands lying outside of
them, we came to a rocky point rather higher than any we had yet met
with on this side of the bay. The coast to the eastward of Point Cowie
(so named after an old friend) became more level, and instead of
granite, was covered with mud, shingle, and fragments of limestone. At
half-past 3 A.M., all of us being sufficiently tired with our night's
work, we built our snow hut and a small kitchen for cooking. This was
our usual practice when we had found, or were likely to find, fuel. In
the present instance, we had the good fortune to collect enough to boil
a kettle of chocolate, and we consequently enjoyed an excellent supper,
if I may so term a meal taken about six in the morning.
The weather had been fine until midnight, when it began to snow and
drift, with a strong breeze from the north. Thermometer +13 deg. At noon
the sky was too much overcast to obtain an observation. Our latitude was
67 deg. 24' 20" N., longitude 86 deg. 37' W. both by account.
When we resumed our journey, at 7 o'clock in the evening of the 17th,
there was still a strong breeze from N.N.W. with snow drift, the
temperature being +18 deg. Our snow hut of the previous day we now found
to be on the shore of a large bay, the most distant point of which bore
nearly due north. To follow the coast would have cost us a great deal of
additional walking; I therefore determined to attempt the traverse of
the bay towards the point above referred to. All along the coast there
was a belt of rough ice about two miles broad, over which we were forced
to pass before reaching some that appeared smoother outside. To cross
this barrier occupied us more than two hours, and gave us more violent
exercise than all the remainder of the day's journey. It was half-past 3
A.M. when we arrived at the north point of the bay, which was low and
level, with some hills a few hundred feet high, three or four miles
inland. We had passed two small rocky islands to seaward in the first
part of the night, and there was another close to a bluff point on the
south side of the bay. To this cape I gave the name of Watt. The bay was
called after Lieut. (now Captain) Lefroy of the Royal Artillery, whose
name is well known to the scientific world, and of whose kindness in
aiding me in my astronomical studies I retain a most grateful
remembrance.
We crossed over to Cape W. Mactavish (so named after William Mactavish,
Esquire, chief trader, an intimate friend, to whom I am much indebted
for assisting me in fitting out the expedition,) and stopped about three
miles beyond it. Here we built our snow hut, which was found by meridian
observation to be in latitude 67 deg. 42' 22" N.; the variation of the
compass 80 deg. 35' W., and the longitude by account 86 deg. 30' W.
Directly opposite our encampment, and extending for about seventeen
miles to the northward of it, there was a large island of table land,
with not a single rock _in situ_ to be seen on it. Its southern
extremity bore nearly west (true) from us, and the strait which
separated it from the mainland was not more than a mile and a half wide.
This island was honoured with the name of His Royal Highness the Prince
of Wales, and a smaller one to the south of it was named after Colonel
Sabine.
Not a single living animal had been seen all day, but some traces of
deer proceeding northward were noticed. We were again fortunate enough
to find a little fuel.
Our route on the following night was nearly straight in a N.N.E.
direction. The snow was very soft and deep in many places. A few hundred
yards from the beach there were steep banks covered with shingle and
small boulders of granite, where we usually found the snow less deep,
and walking consequently better. After travelling nine miles we came to
a considerable creek, about twenty yards wide, in which a deep channel
had been worn among the mud and shingle. Near it there were numerous
Esquimaux marks set up, and circular tent sites, but all of old date. We
continued our march twelve miles further, and at 8 A.M. arrived at
another creek somewhat larger than the last, and with higher banks. Here
there were also many Esquimaux marks, and I afterwards learned that some
parties had resorted hither from Repulse Bay, for the purpose of
catching salmon, trout, &c. About an hour before reaching this place we
crossed a long and curiously shaped point, which I named Point Hamilton
after a near relative. The bay formed by it was called Erlandson.
One of the men, although an able active fellow, not being used to this
sort of exercise, was much fatigued; and as the weather looked
threatening, I ordered our snow-house to be built--the more readily as
there was fuel to be found. In little more than a hour and a half we
were comfortably housed, and not long afterwards we had taken our usual
morning meal of pemmican seasoned with a handful of flour, those
forming, when boiled together, a very nourishing and not unpalatable
dish. The temperature all night had been 22 deg. above zero, being too
warm for walking pleasantly; and the men, having had to exert themselves
much, were glad to get to rest as soon as possible, whilst I remained up
to obtain a meridian observation of the sun. This gave latitude 67 deg.
58' 49" N. Our longitude by account was 85 deg. 59' 36" W. The sun was
too much obscured by clouds to obtain the variation. We here deposited
some pemmican and a little flour for our return journey.
When we started at 8 h. 30 m. P.M. on the 19th it blew a gale of wind
from S.S.E. with much drift and snow, the temperature being only 4 deg.
below the freezing point. Fortunately the wind was on our backs; but the
drift was so thick that we were obliged to follow every turn of the
coast, and we could not see more than twenty yards before us. When we
had travelled six miles we came to a bay a mile and a half wide, on the
north shore of which there were two strangely shaped rocks of granite,
having the appearance of an old ruin or portion of a fortress. They
were of a square form, each about twenty-five feet high and nearly as
much in extent.
Our course now lay due north; but we had not gone more than twelve miles
altogether, when the weather became so unpleasant that we were glad to
get under shelter, and before we did so, every part of our clothes was
penetrated with snow drift. We could obtain no fuel here.
The weather continued so stormy that we were unable to leave our
snow-hut until a quarter past 8 P.M. on the 21st. During our detention,
finding that our provisions would run short if the walking continued as
difficult as it had been, we took only one not overabundant meal during
the twenty-four hours. There was still some snow falling, so that I
could not take the proper bearings of the land along which we passed.
The land, after we had proceeded N.E. for a few miles, turned to the
southward of east, forming a bay eight miles wide, which, as it was full
of rough ice, we were under the necessity of coasting. This bay was
called after the Rt Hon. the Earl of Selkirk, and the cape forming its
western boundary was named after the amiable lady of our much respected
governor, Sir George Simpson.
The snow was in many places so soft and deep that we sank above the knee
at every step, which made our night's march fatiguing in the extreme. On
the N.E. side of Selkirk Bay, which is steep and rocky, there was a deep
indentation or inlet, into which two small creeks emptied themselves.
The land for five miles had a N.W. trending, and again turned up to the
eastward of N., forming a high rugged headland, which was named Cape
Finlayson, after Duncan Finlayson, Esq., Chief Factor. At three miles
from Cape Finlayson we passed Point Barnston, and about four miles
beyond this we came to another rocky point, which received the name of
Cape Sibbald. The night had now become very disagreeable, with a heavy
fall of snow; we persevered notwithstanding, partly crossing and partly
coasting a bay heaped with rough ice, and encamped on what I supposed
was its northern extremity, but which afterwards turned out to be an
island, and to which I gave the name of Glen. The bay we had just passed
was called after William G. Smith, Esq., Assistant Secretary to the
Hudson's Bay Company.
The snow not being in a good state for building, we were rather longer
than usual in getting housed. There was no fuel to be found, so we
followed our old plan, and took a kettle or two of snow to bed with us.
The temperature was very high for the season, being only 5 deg. below
the freezing point.
When we started at a quarter-past 11 on the 22nd, the night was
beautifully clear and calm, with the thermometer at 13 deg. below zero.
After a three hours' walk we arrived at the north point of a bay, three
and a half miles wide, across which we had come. To the bay I gave the
name of Fraser, and to the point that of Corcoran, after two intimate
friends, chief traders of the Company.
We had not advanced many miles farther, when some deer were noticed at
no great distance, feeding on the banks of a stream. Being desirous of
procuring some venison if possible, I sent Corrigal (who, with other
good qualities, was a very fair shot) after them, and he was fortunate
enough to shoot a fine buck. But the buck, though wounded, could still
run too fast to be overtaken, and the sportsman was just about to give
up the chase when I joined him, and we continued the pursuit together.
The deer, having got a considerable way in advance, had lain down, but
rose up before we could get within good shooting distance, and was
trotting off at a great pace, when, by way of giving him a parting
salute, I fired, and very luckily sent a ball through his head, which
dropped him. His horns were already about a foot long, and the venison
was in fine order for the season of the year.
I immediately returned to the men, who had been busily employed
collecting fuel, of which great quantities grew along the borders of the
creek, and sent two of them to assist in skinning and cutting up the
deer, whilst I and the other men continued to gather heather, as we now
anticipated great doings in the kitchen. We placed the greater part of
our venison "en cache," but kept the head, blood, leg bones, &c., for
present use; and being determined to lose nothing, the stomach was
partially cleaned by rubbing it with snow, and then cut up and boiled,
which thus made a very pleasant soup, there being enough of the
vegetable contents of the paunch to give it a fine green colour,
although I must confess that, to my taste, this did not add to the
flavour. Having discussed this mess, a second kettle full was prepared,
composed of the blood, brains, and some scraps of the meat, which
completed our supper.
It is well known that both Esquimaux and Indians are very fond of the
contents of the paunch of the rein-deer, particularly in the spring,
when the vegetable substances on which the animal feeds are said to be
sweeter tasted. I have often seen our hunter, Nibitabo, when he had shot
a deer, cut open the stomach, and sup the contents with as much relish
as a London alderman would a plate of turtle soup.
The position of our snow-house was in latitude 68 deg. 33' 26" N.,
longitude 85 deg. 20' 30" W., both by account.
The weather was so stormy during the 23rd that we could not continue our
journey. The thermometer rose as high as +39 deg. in the shade, and the
melting of the snow having wet the heather, we were obliged to have
recourse to alcohol. Three or four snow buntings and traces of
partridges (_tetrao rupestris_) were seen.
On the 24th it still blew a gale of wind from the east, but there being
a partial thaw by the high temperature, there was no drift, and much of
the ground was entirely cleared of snow.
In the evening the weather became more moderate, and the thermometer
fell to 5 deg. below the freezing point. We started at a few minutes
after 10 o'clock, our course being slightly to the east of north. The
travelling was still very fatiguing, as we were frequently forced to
pass over the rocks, or to walk along the steep drift banks, in order to
avoid the rough ice which had been heaped up against the shore. We
passed a number of small bays and points, and when we had advanced
fifteen miles, came to a high cape, which forms the N.W. promontory of a
bay five miles in extent. To the cape I gave the name of M'Loughlin,
after the gentleman who has been for many years in charge of the
Columbia department, and the bay was called after my much valued friend
Nicol Finlayson, Esq., Chief Factor. After passing Cape M'Loughlin we
turned to the eastward, toward the head of the bay, and stopped at 7
A.M. near the mouth of a creek, where we took up our quarters for the
day.
There was not so much fuel to be found as at our last encampment, but we
gathered enough to boil our kettle. Some bands of deer and a few
partridges were observed, but we did not waste time in endeavouring to
get a shot at them. Since leaving Fort Hope not a day had passed without
more or less snow falling, which made the travelling much more
difficult than I expected, and our progress consequently so much slower,
that, notwithstanding the addition I had made to our stock of
provisions, there was some danger of our still running short. I
therefore decided on leaving two of the men here to fish and shoot,
whilst I went forward with the others.
There was a little snow falling when, along with Corrigal and Matheson,
I set out at 10 P.M. on the 25th. The night was mild (6 deg. below
freezing) with a light wind from the east. A walk of two miles brought us
to a head land, which formed the north side of Finlayson Bay, and which
extended seven miles in a W.N.W. direction. To this cape the name of
Richardson was given, after the distinguished naturalist, who, having
already exposed himself to many dangers and privations in the cause of
science, is now about to incur similar hardships in the cause of
humanity and friendship, by searching for Sir John Franklin and his
gallant party, whose situation, it is too much to be feared, is a
critical one.
At the place where we crossed Cape Richardson it was not more than a
mile wide, and we found ourselves in a large bay, thickly studded with
high and rugged islands. A chain of these islands, which lay outside of
us, and to which I gave the name of Pomona, (after the largest island of
the Orcadian group,) had effectually served as a barrier to the ice from
seaward, and had thus made the walking much smoother than we had hoped
to find it. As we advanced there were many tracks of polar bears, and
also those of a wolverine, that appeared to follow them very closely,
expecting no doubt to appropriate some portion of whatever prey they
might catch. A flock of long-tailed ducks passed us, flying to the
westward, towards some open water, the vapour exhaled from which
appeared in that direction.
As we approached the north side of the bay, which was named after
Nicholas Garry, Esq., of the Hudson's Bay Company, there were so many
islands that I was much at a loss what direction to take. Under these
circumstances we encamped at 6 A.M. on a high island, about two miles in
diameter, from which a good view could be obtained. Garry Bay is the
most strangely shaped, and the most irregular in its outline, of any we
had yet seen. It presented three long, narrow, and high points of land,
and had four inlets. The largest and most southerly of these points was
called after Lieut. Halkett, R.N., and the most northerly of the inlets
received the name of Black Inlet. As no fuel could be obtained here, we
were reduced to the necessity of using some more of our alcohol, of
which but a small quantity now remained. The men were soon asleep under
our single blanket, (for this was all the covering we had for the
party,) whilst I remained awake for the purpose of obtaining an
observation of the sun at noon. This gave latitude 68 deg. 59' 15" N.,
variation of the compass 88 deg. 26' W., our longitude by account being
84 deg. 48' W.
All the way between Lefroy and Garry Bays there is a range of hills,
from 500 to 800 feet high, about five miles from the coast, which was
distinguished by the name of His Royal Highness Prince Albert, consort
of our beloved Sovereign.
The weather was beautiful all day, and was equally fine when we
commenced our march at half-past nine at night. Our route lay somewhat
to the west of north, between two lofty islands, the smaller of which
received the name of Gladman, and the larger and most northerly I
designated Honeyman, after a brother. Seven miles from our encampment we
passed a bluff and precipitous point, the northern extremity of Garry
Bay, to which the name of Cape Arrowsmith was given, in honour of John
Arrowsmith, Esq., the talented hydrographer to Her Majesty.
The land was now completely serrated with narrow points and inlets,
along which we were able to make nearly a straight course, as the force
of the ice from the westward had been much broken by ridges of rocks
that lay outside of us. To four of these inlets I gave the names of
M'Kenzie, Whiffen, Bunn, and Hopkins, after much esteemed friends.
Towards the end of our night's journey the coast turned nearly due
north, and when we had advanced seven leagues we encamped on Cape
Miles,--so named after Robert Miles, Esq., Chief Factor,--at 7 A.M.
on the 27th. As the morning was exceedingly fine, we thought there was
no necessity for building a snow-house, an omission which we regretted
in the afternoon, when a heavy fall of snow took place.
By a good meridian observation of the sun, the latitude 69 deg. 19' 39"
N., and the variation of the compass 92 deg. 20' west, were obtained,
the longitude by account being 85 deg. 4' W. The latter is evidently
erroneous, as I had neither chronometer nor watch that I could place
dependence upon, and the compasses were much affected by local
attraction.
Our provisions being now nearly all used, I could advance only half a
night's journey further to the northward, and return the following
morning to our present quarters. Leaving one of the men, I set out with
the other at half-past 9 P.M., the snow falling fast; and although we
had little or nothing to carry, the travelling was very fatiguing as we
crossed Baker Bay--so named in memory of a much valued friend--at the
north side of which we arrived after a walk of four miles. It now snowed
so thick that we could not see farther than fifty yards round us, and we
were consequently obliged to follow the windings of the shore, which,
when we had traced it six miles beyond Baker Bay, turned sharp to the
eastward; but the weather continuing thick, I could not see how far it
preserved this trending. After waiting here nearly an hour, the sky
cleared up for a few minutes at 4 A.M., which enabled me to discover
that we were on the south shore of a considerable bay, and I could also
obtain a distinct view of the coast line for nearly twelve miles beyond
it.
To the most distant visible point (latitude 69 deg. 42' N., longitude 85
deg. 8' W.,) I gave the name of Cape Ellice, after Edward Ellice, Esq.
M.P., one of the Directors of the Company; the bay to the northward, and
the headland on which we stood, were respectively named after the
distinguished navigators Sir Edward Parry and Captain Crozier.
Finding it hopeless to attempt reaching the strait of the Fury and
Hecla, from which Cape Ellice could not be more than ten miles distant,
we took possession of our discoveries with the usual formalities, and
retraced our steps, arriving at our encampment of the previous day at
half-past 8 A.M. Here we found that Matheson, the man left behind, had
built a snow-house after a fashion of his own, the walls being like
those of a stone building, and the roof covered in the same way with
slabs of snow placed on the opposite walls in a slanting position, so as
to rest on one another in the centre. Seven hours had been spent in
building this edifice, which was not a very handsome one; but being
sufficiently wide, and, when our legs were doubled up a little, long
enough for us all when lying down, we found it pretty comfortable.
During the remaining four hours of our absence, he had been engaged in
an attempt to coax a little wet moss into a sufficient blaze to boil
some chocolate; but, notwithstanding his most persevering exertions, by
the time his fuel was expended, the chocolate was little more than
lukewarm, although our cook _pro tempore_, who was of a sanguine
temperament, firmly believed that it was just about to reach the boiling
point. We finished the process with a little of our remaining stock of
alcohol, and enjoyed an excellent though rather scanty supper.
Matheson was one of the best men I ever had under my command. Always
ready, willing, and obedient, he did his duty in every respect; and
whilst he possessed spirit enough for anything, he had a stock of good
humour which never failed him in any situation, however difficult and
trying. Were the walking difficult or easy, the loads heavy or light,
provisions abundant or reduced to less than half allowance, it was all
one to Peter Matheson; he had a joke ready for every occasion.
A few minutes after 10 P.M. on the 28th, we were on the march homeward.
The night was very disagreeable, there being a strong breeze of head
wind with heavy snow, and a temperature much too mild (only 8 deg. below
the freezing point) for walking comfortably. The snow also was very soft,
so that, had it not been for the bad state of our victualling department,
we would have remained snug in our quarters. But needs must when hunger
drives, so we trudged on stoutly, crossing over the land for the purpose
of shortening our distance. After a tough walk, during which we met
with some tracks of bears that had passed only about an hour before, we
encamped on a small island close to Cape Arrowsmith, and nearly three
miles to the northward of our snow hut of the 26th. The weather during
the day became fine, so fine indeed that our house, not being built of
good material, tumbled down about our ears just before we were leaving
it.
29th.--When we started at half-past 9 P.M., the night was fine, but in
half an hour it began to snow so thick that we could not keep our course
in crossing Garry Bay, where the walking was much worse than when we
formerly passed. In three hours the weather again cleared up, and I
found that we had not deviated much from the right road.
At 7 A.M. we joined Folster and Mineau, whom we found quite well, but
like ourselves very thin. The only animals they had killed were two
marmots, and no fish had been caught. If we had been twelve hours longer
absent, they intended to have boiled a piece of parchment skin for
supper, and to have kept the small remaining piece of pemmican for
travelling provisions.
I have had considerable practice in walking, and have often accomplished
between forty and fifty, and, on one occasion, sixty-five miles in a day
on snow shoes, with a day's provisions, blanket, axe, &c. on my back;
but our journey hitherto had been the most fatiguing I had ever
experienced. The severe exercise, with a limited allowance of food, had
much reduced the whole party, yet we were all in excellent health; and
although we lost flesh, we kept up our spirits, and marched merrily on,
tightening our belts--mine came in six inches--and feasting our
imaginations on full allowance when we arrived at Fort Hope.
On the 30th we continued our course homewards, crossing over the several
points that we had formerly coasted. It snowed heavily all night, and
the temperature was only two degrees below the freezing point. Eight
cranes "winged their circling flight" northward, and half a dozen
sandpipers were seen. It was near 4 A.M. on the 31st when we arrived at
our snow house of the 23rd, which we found quite as good as when we left
it and our cache of venison all safe. Three partridges were shot, which
somewhat aided our short commons.
On the following night, after an ineffectual attempt to get to seaward
of the rough ice, in which we lost a considerable portion of the skin
off our shins, we travelled on the land, making short cuts whenever
practicable.
On arriving opposite to Glen Island, we found that it was divided from
the shore by a channel not much more than a quarter of a mile wide.
There was an inlet a few miles in length to the eastward of it, which
was named after the Rev. Mr. Mackar of Kingston, Canada West. This night
was the finest we had experienced throughout the journey.
A specimen of trap rock was obtained from some rising grounds a mile
and a half distant from the north shore of Smith's Bay, near the head of
which we now for the first time observed a lake of a couple miles in
extent. When half a league from Cape Sibbald, we encamped under shelter
of some precipitous trap cliffs nearly a hundred feet high. Some more
cranes were seen, and numerous traces of deer and partridges. We here
procured some fuel, there being patches of ground bare of snow. Our
latitude by observation was 68 deg. 19' 50" N. Variation of the compass
80 deg. 55' W. Two of the men were affected with snow blindness--one of
them severely.
1st June.--It blew a gale of wind from S.E., with thick snow-drift at
8h. 30m. P.M. when we resumed our journey. At half-past 10 we crossed
the largest stream that we had yet met with on Melville Peninsula. It
was already partially open, owing to numerous springs, which had formed
many small mounds of ice from ten to twelve feet high. After taking a
copious draught from the limpid stream, we continued our journey across
Point Barnston and Cape Finlayson, until we arrived at Selkirk Bay,
when, the weather having become much worse, we stopped at 1h. 30m. A.M.
to build our snow hut at a place where there was such an abundant supply
of heather, that we had enough to cover our snow-bed with. Two deer were
seen, and Corrigal made an ineffectual attempt to get a shot at them. I
shot five ptarmigan, and four sandpipers were observed.
During the next night's journey the weather was very snowy, but the wind
being more moderate we got on faster. After coasting Selkirk Bay, we cut
across Cape Lady Simpson, and at half-past 6 A.M. on the 3rd of June, we
reached our encampment of the 19th ultimo in Erlandson Bay, where we
found our small "cache" of provisions quite safe. Five more partridges
were shot, and some deer seen. The snow being very soft, we remained
here all day, and at noon obtained the latitude 67 deg. 59' N., and
variation 75 deg. 9' W. The thermometer in the shade rose as high as +54
deg., and our old snow-house tumbled down about our ears in the evening,
just as we were going to take our supper,--perhaps breakfast would be the
more appropriate term, as we had turned day into night.
We started at 8h. 30m. P.M., and notwithstanding the great power of the
sun, so much snow had fallen lately that it lay far deeper on the ground
than when we had previously passed this way. The walking also was so
much more fatiguing, that we were not able to reach our snow-house of
the 18th of May, and were in consequence under the necessity of building
new lodgings. The night was mild and nearly calm. Two phalaropes (_P.
fulicarius_) were seen, and a couple of ptarmigan shot. There was no
fuel to be found here, but having picked up a little as we came along,
we did not feel the want of it much.
The 4th was a fine night with the thermometer at +23 deg., when, at 7h.
40m., we resumed our march. Whilst rounding Cape Mactavish we fell in
with nine partridges, seven of which were shot, and I endeavoured to get
within range of a couple of swans--the first we had seen--but they were
too shy. We now crossed Lefroy Bay, the snow on which was very soft, and
built our snow-house on the ice at 7h. A.M. about four miles from its
south shore. The work during this journey had been so much more severe
than was expected, and the men had in consequence used so much more
tobacco than they had anticipated, that their stock was now quite
exhausted, and they appeared to feel the want as much as if they had
been deprived of half their allowance of food,--perhaps more. It was
really amusing to see how very particular they were in dividing the
small remaining bits which they rummaged from the dust and rubbish in
their pockets, and which at any other time they would have thrown away.
I happened to have a little snuff with me, a pinch of which, in their
necessity, they relished much.
We were on foot again at 20 minutes after 8 on the 5th. The weather had
been stormy all day, but became fine an hour after we started. We kept
well out from land, expecting to find the ice smoother; and this was the
case as far as Point Cowie; but beyond that the rough ice extended quite
across the bay; we therefore struck in for the shore, which after two
hours' scrambling we reached, and directed our course over the
rocks,--from which the snow had now, in many places, entirely
disappeared,--towards Cape T. Simpson, where we arrived at 5h. A.M. on
the 6th, and found our "cache" of provisions, &c., as we had left it. No
time was lost in getting the stones cleared away from it, not so much
for the purpose of having something to eat, as to find some tobacco that
had been left here among other things. A fine hare had been shot, and as
soon as three of the party, who had stopped behind to gather fuel, came
up, we had a much more abundant and palatable meal than we had enjoyed
for many days before. To the large bay, the survey of which we had now
completed, the name of Committee Bay was given, in honor of the
Committee of the Hudson's Bay Company. This was the finest day we had
experienced during this journey, the power of the sun being so great as
to raise the thermometer to +82 deg.
By an excellent meridian observation in quicksilver, our latitude was
67 deg. 19' 14" N., variation of compass, 64 deg. 27' W. Wishing to take
a straighter, and consequently shorter, route to Repulse Bay than that by
which we had gone, we started at 9 P.M. on the 6th, and after a walk of
three hours came to the head of a narrow inlet, with high rocky shores,
and about seven miles long, to which I gave the name of Munro. Our
course overland was nearly due south, and we passed over a number of
small lakes, from which the snow had been partially removed by the
joint action of the sun's rays and the wind.
On the following night our course continued the same with a slight
inclination to the westward. We had a strong gale of fair wind, which
helped us along amazingly; but as we could easily reach Fort Hope in
another night, and as we had abundance of food, we encamped at 3h. 30m.
A.M. on the 8th, during the whole of which day, until late in the
evening, it blew hard with drifting snow, so that no observations could
be made.
Being anxious to arrive at winter quarters early on the following day,
we were again on the march at half-past 7 P.M., and the evening having
now become fine, we kept up a smart pace for a few hours until we
arrived at Christie Lake, where, finding some very fine heather quite
dry and free from snow, it was impossible to resist the temptation of
having something to eat and drink. Having taken up our quarters in an
old snow-hut, the chocolate and pemmican kettles were soon on the fire,
and we heartily enjoyed our rather unusual meal. Following the lake and
North Pole River, we came to Fort Hope at 8h. 20m. A.M. on the 9th, all
in good health and spirits, but very much reduced in flesh, although not
quite so black as when we returned from the previous journey.