CHAPTER IX

FRANCE

WORKING UP TO GOBELINS FACTORY

In following the great sweep of tapestry production we arrive now in

France, there to stay until the Revolution. The early beginnings were

there, briefly rivalling Arras, but Arras, as we have seen, caught up

the industry with greater zeal and became the ever-famous leader of

the Fifteenth Century, ceding to Brussels in the Sixteenth Century,

whence the high point of perfection was carried to Paris and caused

the establishment of the Gobelins. The English development under James

I, we defer for a later considering.

Francis I stands, an over-dressed, ever ambitious figure, at the

beginning of things modern in French art. He still smacks of the

Middle Ages in many a custom, many a habit of thought; his men clank

in armour, in his chateaux lurk the suggestion of the fortress, and

his common people are sunk in a dark and hopeless oppression. Yet he

himself darts about Europe with a springing gait and an elegant

manner, the type of the strong aristocrat dispensing alike arts of war

and arts of the Renaissance.

Was it his visits, bellicose though they were, to Italy and Spain,

that turned his observant eye to the luxury of woven story and made

him desire that France should produce the same? The Sforza Castle at

Milan had walls enough of tapestry, the pageants of Leonardo da

Vinci, organised at royal command of the lovely Beatrice d'Este,

displayed the wealth of woven beauty over which Francis had time to

deliberate in those bad hours after the battle at Milan's noted

neighbour, Pavia.

[Illustration: THE FINDING OF MOSES

Gobelins, Seventeenth Century. Cartoon after Poussin. The Louvre

Museum]

[Illustration: TRIUMPH OF JUNO

Gobelins under Louis XIV.]

The attention of Francis was also turned much to Spain through envy of

that extraordinary man of luck and ability, the Emperor Charles V, and

from whom he made abortive and sullen efforts to wrest Germany, Italy,

anything he could get. In his imprisonment in Madrid, Francis had time

in plenty on which to think of many things, and why not on the

wonderful tapestries of which Spain has always had a collection to

make envious the rest of Europe. He might forget his two poor little

boys who were left as hostages on his release, but he forgot not

whatever contributes to the pleasure of life. That peculiarity was one

which was yielding luscious fruit, however, for Francis was the bearer

of the torch of the Renaissance which was to illumine France with the

same fire that flashed and glowed over Italy. This is a fact to

remember in regard to the class of designs of his own and succeeding

periods in France.

How he got his ideas we can reasonably trace, and the result of them

was that he established a royal tapestry factory in beautiful

Fontainebleau, which lies hid in grateful shade, stretching to

flowered fields but a reasonable distance from the distractions of

Paris.

It pleased Francis--and perhaps the beautiful Diane de Poitiers and

Duchesse d'Etampes--to critique plays in that tiny gem of a theatre at

the palace, or to feed the carp in the pool; but also it gave him

pleasure to wander into the rooms where the high-warp looms lifted

their utilitarian lengths and artists played at magic with the wools.

Alas, one cannot dress this patronage of art with too much of

disinterestedness, for these marvellous weavings were for the

adornment of the apartments of the very persons who caused their

productions.

The grand idea of state ateliers had not yet come to bless the

industry. For this reason the factory at Fontainebleau outlasted the

reign of its founder, Francis I, but a short time.

Nevertheless, examples of its works are still to be seen and are of

great beauty, notably those at the Museum of the Gobelins in Paris.

That a series called the _History of Diana_ was produced is but

natural, considering the puissance at court of the famous Diane de

Poitiers.

When Francis' son, Henri II, enfeebled in constitution by the Spanish

confinement, inherited the throne, it was but natural that he should

neglect the indulgences of his father and prefer those of his own. The

Fontainebleau factory strung its looms and copied its cartoons and

produced, too, certain hangings for Henri's wife, the terrible

Catherine de Medici, on which her vicious eyes rested in forming her

horrid plots; but Henri had ambitions of his own, small ambitions

beside those which had to do with jealousy of Charles Quint. He let

the factory of Francis I languish, but carried on the art under his

own name and fame.

To give his infant industry a home he looked about Paris and decided

upon the Hopital de la Trinite, an institution where asylum was found

for the orphans of the city who seem, in the light of the general

brutality of the time, to have been even in more need of a home than

the parentless child of modern civilisation. A part of the scheme was

to employ in the works such children as were sufficiently mature and

clever to work and to learn at least the auxiliary details of a craft

that is also an art.

In this way the sixty or so of the orphans of La Trinite were given a

means of earning a livelihood. Among them was one whose name became

renowned. This was Maurice du Bourg, whose tapestries surpassed all

others of his time in this factory--an important factory, as being one

of the group that later was merged into the Gobelins.

It must be remembered in identifying French tapestries of this kind

that things Gothic had been vanquished by the new fashion of things

Renaissance, and that all models were Italian. Giulio Romano and his

school of followers were the mode in France, not only in drawing, but

in the revival of classic subject. This condition in the art world

found expression in a set of tapestries from the factory of La Trinite

that are sufficiently celebrated to be set down in the memory with an

underscoring. This set was composed of fifteen pieces illustrating in

sweeping design and gorgeous colouring the _History of Mausolus and

Artemisia_. Intense local and personal interest was given to the set

by making an open secret of the fact that by Artemisia, the Queen of

Halicarnassus, was meant the widowed Queen of France, Catherine de

Medici, who adored posing as the most famous of widows and adding

ancient glory to her living importance. To this _History_ French

writers accord the important place of inspirer of a distinctively

French Renaissance.

The weaver being Maurice du Bourg, the chief of the factory of La

Trinite, the artists were Henri Lerambert and Antoine Carron, but the

set has been many times copied in various factories, and Artemisia has

symbolised in turn two other widowed queens of France.

Into the throne of France climbed wearily a feeble youth always under

the influence of his mother, Catherine de Medici; and then it was

filled by two other incapable and final Orleans monarchs, until at

last by virtue of inheritance and sword, it became the seat of that

grand and faulty Henri IV, King of Navarre. By fighting he got his

place, and the habit being strong upon him, he was in eternal

conflict. Some there be who are developed by sympathy, but Henri IV

was developed by opposition, and thus it was that although opposed in

the matter by his Prime Minister, Sully, he established factories for

the weaving of tapestries in both high and low warps.

With the desire to see the arts of peace instead of evidences of war

throughout his kingdom just rescued from conflict, he took all means

to set his people in the ways of pleasing industry. The indefatigable

Sully was plucking the royal sleeve to follow the path of the plough,

to see man's salvation, material and moral, in the ways of

agriculture. But Henri favoured townspeople as well as country

people, and with the Edict of Nantes, releasing from the bondage of

terror a large number of workers, he showed much industry in

encouraging tapestry factories in and near Paris, and as these all

lead to Gobelins we will consider them.

[Illustration: TRIUMPH OF THE GODS (DETAIL)

Gobelins, Seventeenth Century]

[Illustration: TRIUMPH OF THE GODS (DETAIL)

Gobelins Tapestry]

Henri IV, notwithstanding his Prime Minister Sully's opposition to

what he considered a favouring of vicious luxury, began to occupy

himself in tapestry factories as early in his reign as his people

could rise from the wounds of war. Taking his movements

chronologically we will begin with his establishment in 1597 (eight

years after this first Bourbon took the throne) of a high-warp

industry in the house of the Jesuits in the Faubourg St. Antoine,

associating here Du Bourg of La Trinite and Laurent, equally renowned,

and the composer of the St. Merri tapestries.[14]

Flemish workers in Paris were at this same time, about 1601,

encouraged by the king and under protection of his steward. These

Flemings were the nucleus of a great industry, for it was over them

that two famous masters governed, namely, Francois de la Planche and

Marc Comans or Coomans. In 1607 Henri IV established the looms which

these men were called upon to direct.

These two Flemings, great in their art, were men of family and of some

means, for their first venture in the manufacture of tapestry was a

private enterprise like any of to-day. They looked to themselves to

produce the money for the support of the industry. Combining

qualities of both the artist and the business man, they took on

apprentices and also established looms in the provinces (notably Tours

and Amiens) where commercialism was as prominent as in modern methods;

that is to say, that by turning off a lot of cheaper work for smaller

purses, a quick and ready market was found which supplied the money

necessary for the production of those finer works of art which are

left to delight us to-day.

This manner of procedure of De la Planche and Comans has an interest

far deeper than the mere financial venture of the men of the early

Seventeenth Century, because it forces upon us the fact that at that

time, and earlier, no state ateliers existed. It was Henri IV who

first saw the wisdom of using the public purse in advancing this

industry. He established Du Bourg in the Louvre. With Henri Laurent he

was placed in the Tuileries, in 1607, and that atelier lasted until

the ministry of Colbert in the reign of Louis XIV.

In about 1627 the great De la Planche died and his son, Raphael,

established ateliers of his own in the Faubourg St. Germain, turning

out from his looms productions which were of sufficient excellence to

be confused with those of his father's most profitable factory.

Chronologically this fact belongs later, so we return to the influence

of Henri IV and the master gentleman tapissiers, De la Planche and

Comans.

The very name of the old palace, Les Tournelles, calls up a crowd of

pictures: the death of Henri II at the tournament in honour of the

marriage of his son with Marie Stuart, the subsequent razing of this

ancient home of kings by Catherine de Medici, and its reconstruction

in its present form by Henri IV. It is here that Richelieu honoured

the brief reign of Louis XIII by a statue, and it is here that Madame

de Sevigne was born. But more to our purpose, it was here that, in

1607, Henri IV cast his kingly eye when establishing a certain

tapestry factory. It was here he placed as directors the celebrated

Comans and De la Planche. It happened in time, that the looms of Les

Tournelles were moved to the Faubourg St. Marceau and these two men

came in time to direct these and all other looms under royal

patronage.

Examples are not wanting in museums of French work of this time,

showing the development of the art and the progress that France was

making under Henri IV, whose energy without limit, and whose interests

without number, would to-day have given him the epithet of strenuous.

Under his reign we see the activity that so easily led France up to

the point where all that was needed was the assembling of the

factories under the direction of one great master. The factories

flourishing under Henri IV were La Trinite, the Louvre, the

Savonnerie, the Faubourg St. Marceau and one in the Tuileries. But it

needed the power of Louis XIV to tie all together in the strength of

unity.

The assassin Ravaillac, fanatically muttering through the streets of

Paris, alternately hiding and swaggering throughout the loveliest

month of May, when he thrust his murderous dagger through the royal

coach, not only gave a death blow to Henri IV, but to many of these

industries that the king had cherished for his people against the

opposition of his prime minister. The tale of tapestry is like a vine

hanging on a frame of history, and frequent allusion therefore must be

made to the tales of kings and their ministers.

As it is not always a monarch, but often the power behind the throne

that rules, we see the force of Richelieu surging behind the reign of

the suppressed Louis XIII, whose rule followed that of the regretted

Henri IV. The master of the then new Palais-Royal had minor interests

of his own, apart from his generous plots of ruin for the Protestants,

for all the French nobility, and for the House of Austria to which the

queen belonged. Luxurious surroundings were a necessity to this man,

refined in the arts of cruelty and of living. It was no wonder that

under him tapestry weaving was not allowed to die, but was fostered

until that day when the Grand Monarch would organise and perfect.

In 1643, Louis XIV came to the throne under the guidance of Anne of

Austria, but it was many years before he was able to make his

influence appreciable. Meanwhile, however, others were fostering the

elegant industry. It was as early as 1647 that two celebrated tapestry

weavers came to Paris from Italy. They were Pierre Lefevre or Lefebvre

and his son Jean. The first of these was the chief of a factory in

Florence, whither he presently returned. Jean Lefebvre stayed in

Paris, won his way all the better for being released from parental

rule, and in time received the great honour of being appointed one

of the directors of the Gobelins, when that factory was finally

organised as an institution of the state.

[Illustration: GOBELINS BORDER (DETAIL) SEVENTEENTH CENTURY]

[Illustration: CHILDREN GARDENING

After Charles Lebrun. Gobelins, Seventeenth Century. Chateau Henri

Quatre, Pau]

During the regency of Louis XIV there were also factories outside of

Paris. The high-warp looms of Tours were of such notable importance

that the great Richelieu placed here an order for tapestries of great

splendour with which to soften his hours of ease. Rheims Cathedral

still harbours the fine hangings which were woven for the place they

now adorn, an unusual circumstance in the world of tapestry. These

hangings (_The Story of Christ_) were woven at Rheims, where the

factory existed well known throughout the first half of the

Seventeenth Century. The church had previously ordered tapestries from

another town executed by one Daniel Pepersack, and so highly approved

was his work that he was made director of the Rheims factory.[15]

A factory which lasted but a few years, yet has for us a special

interest, is that of Maincy, founded in 1658. It is here that we hear

of the great Colbert and of Lebrun, whose names are synonymous with

prosperity of the Gobelins. For the factory at Maincy, Lebrun made

cartoons of great beauty, notably that of _The Hunt of Meleager_,

which now hangs in the Gobelins Museum in Paris. Louis Blamard was the

director of the workmen, who were Flemish, and who were afterwards

called to Paris to operate the looms of the newly-formed Gobelins, and

the reason of the transference forms a part of the history of the

great people of that day.

Richelieu in dying had passed over his power to Mazarin, who had used

it with every cruelty possible to the day. He had coveted riches and

elegance and had possessed himself of them; had collected in his

palace the most beautiful works of art of his day or those of a

previous time. After Mazarin came Foucquet, the great, the

iconoclastic, the unfortunate.

It was at Foucquet's estate of Vaux near Maincy that this tapestry

factory of short duration was established and soon destroyed. The

powerful Superintendent of Finance, with his eye for the beautiful and

desire for the luxury of kings, built for himself such a chateau as

only the magnificence of that time produced. It was situated far

enough from Paris to escape any sort of ennui, and was surrounded by

gardens most marvellous, within a beauteous park. It lay, when

finished, like a jewel on the fair bosom of France. The great

superintendent conceived the idea of pleasing the young king, Louis

XIV, by inviting the court for a wondrous fete in its lovely

enclosure.

Foucquet was a man of the world, and of the court, knew how to please

man's lighter side, and how to use social position for his own ends.

France calls him a "dilapidateur," but when his power and incidentally

the revenues of state, were laid out to produce a day of pleasure for

king and court, his taste and ability showed such a fete as could

scarce be surpassed even in those days of artistic fetes champetres.

The great gardens were brought into use in all the beauty of flower

and vine, of lawn and bosquet, of terrace and fountain. When the

guests arrived, weary of town life, they were turned loose in the

enchanting place like birds uncaged, and to the beauty of Nature was

added that of folk as gaily dressed as the flowers. The king was

invited to inspect it all for his pleasure, asked to feast in the

gardens, and to repose in the splendid chateau.

He was young then, in the early twenties, and luxury was younger then

than now, so he was pleased to spend the time in almost childish

enjoyments. A play _al fresco_ was almost a necessity to a royal

garden party, which was no affair of an hour like ours in the busy

to-day, but extended the livelong day and evening. Moliere was ready

with his sparkling satires at the king's caprice, and into the garden

danced the players before an audience to whom vaudeville and _cafe

chantant_ were exclusively a royal novelty arranged for their

delectation.

It is easy to see the elegant young king and his court in the setting

of a sophisticated out-of-doors, wandering on grassy paths, lingering

under arches of roses, plucking a flower to nest beside a smiling

face, stopping where servants--obsequious adepts, they were

then--supplied dainty things to eat and drink. Madame de Sevigne was

there, she of the observant eye, an eye much occupied at this time

with the figure of Superintendent Foucquet, the host of this glorious

occasion. This gracious lady lacked none of the appearance of

frivolity, coiffed in curls, draped in lace and soft silks, but her

mind was deeply occupied with the signs of the times. All the elegance

of the chateau, all the seductive beauty of terrace, garden, and

bosquet, all the piquant surprises of play and pyrotechnics, what were

they? Simply the disinterested effort of a subject to give pleasure

to His Majesty, the King.

There were those present who had long envied Foucquet, with his

ever-increasing power and wealth, his ability to patronise the arts,

to collect, and even to establish his tapestry looms like a king, for

his own palace and for gifts. This grand fete in the lovely month of

June did more than shower pleasure, more than gratify the lust of the

eye. In effect, it was a gathering of exquisite beauties and charming

men, lost in light-hearted play; in reality, it proved to be an

incitive to envy and malice, and a means to ruin.

Among the observant guests at this wondrous fete champetre was

Colbert, young, ambitious, keen. He was not slow to see the holes in

Foucquet's fabric, nor were others. And so, whispers came to the king.

Foucquet's downfall is the old story of envy, man trying to climb by

ruining his superiors, hating those whose magnificence approaches

their own. Foucquet's unequalled entertainment of the king was made to

count as naught. Louis, even before leaving for Paris, had begun to

ask whence came the money that purchased this wide fertile estate

stretching to the vision's limit, the money that built the chateau of

regal splendour, the money that paid for the prodigal pleasures of

that day of delights? Foucquet thought to have gained the confidence

and admiration of the king. But, on leaving, Louis said coldly, "We

shall scarce dare ask you to our poor palace, seeing the superior

luxury to which you are accustomed." A fearful cut, but only a straw

to the fate which followed, the investigations into the affairs of

Superintendent Foucquet. His arrest and his conviction followed and

then the eighteen dreary years of imprisonment terminating only with

the superintendent's life. Madame de Sevigne saw him in the beginning,

wept for her hero, but after a while she, too, fell away from his

weary years.

[Illustration: CHILDREN GARDENING

After Charles Lebrun. Gobelins, Seventeenth Century. Chateau Henri

Quatre, Pau]

[Illustration: GOBELINS GROTESQUE

Musee des Arts Decoratifs, Paris]

With his arrest came the end of the glories of the Chateau of Vaux

near Maincy, and so, too, came an end to the factory where so fine

results had been obtained in tapestry weaving. Yet the effort was not

in vain, for some of the tapestries remain and the factory was the

school where certain celebrated men were trained.

It may easily have been that Louis XIV discovered on that day at Vaux

the excellence of Lebrun whom he made director at the Gobelins in

Paris when they were but newly formed. Foucquet, wasting in prison,

had many hours in which to think on this and on the advancement of the

very man who had been keenest in running him to cover, the great

Colbert. It was well for France, it was well for the artistic industry

whose history occupies our attention, that these things happened; but

we, nevertheless, feel a weakness towards the man of genius and energy

caged and fretted by prison bars, for he had shown initiative and

daring, qualities of which the world has ever need.

Foucquet's factory lasted three years. It was directed by Louis

Blamard or Blammaert of Oudenarde, and employed a weaver named Jean

Zegre, who came from the works at Enghien, works sufficiently known to

be remarked. Lebrun composed here and fell under the influence of

Rubens, an influence that pervaded the grandiose art of the day. The

earliest works of Lebrun, three pieces, were later used to complete a

set of Rubens' _History of Constantine_. _The Muses_ was a set by

Lebrun, also composed for the Chateau of Vaux. The charm of this set

is a matter for admiration even now when, alas, all is destroyed but a

few fragments.

The disgrace of Foucquet was the last determining cause of the

establishment of the Gobelins factory under Louis XIV, an act which

after this brief review of Paris factories (and an allusion to

sporadic cases outside of Paris) we are in position at last to

consider. Pursuit of knowledge in regard to the Gobelins factory leads

us through ways the most flowery and ways the most stormy, through

sunshine and through the dark, right up to our own times.

[Illustration: GOBELINS TAPESTRY, AFTER LEBRUN, EPOCH LOUIS XIV

Collection of Wm. Baumgarten, Esq., New York]

[Illustration: THE VILLAGE FETE

Gobelins Tapestry after Teniers]

FOOTNOTES:

[14] For the facts here cited see E. Muentz, "Histoire de la

Tapisserie," and Jules Guiffrey, "Les Gobelins."

[15] See Loriquet, "Les Tapisseries de Notre Dame de Rheims."

The Tapestry Book · 第 9 / 24 章