CHAPTER X

THE GOBELINS FACTORY, 1662

Colbert saw the wisdom of taking direction for the king, Louis XIV, of

the looms of Foucquet's chateau. Travel being difficult enough to make

desirable the concentration of points of interest, Colbert transferred

the looms of Vaux to Paris. To do this he had first to find a habitat,

and what so suitable as the Hotel des Gobelins, a collection of

buildings on the edge of Paris by which ran a little brook called the

Bievre. The Sieur Leleu was then the owner, and the sale of the

buildings was made on June 6, 1662.

This was the beginning only of the purchase, for Louis XIV added

adjoining houses for the various uses of the large industries he had

in mind, for the development of arts and crafts of all sorts, and for

the lodging of the workers.

The story of the original occupants of the premises is almost too well

known to recount. The simple tale of the conscientious "dyers in

scarlet" is told on the marble plaque at the present entry into the

collection of buildings still standing, still open to visitors. It is

a tale with a moral, an obvious simple moral with no need of Alice's

Duchess to point it out, and it smacks strong of the honesty of a

labour to which we owe so much.

Late in the Fifteenth Century the brothers Gobelin came to the city

of Paris to follow their trade, which was dyeing, and their ambition,

which was to produce a scarlet dye like that they had seen flaunting

in the glowing city of Venice. The trick of the trade in those days

was to find a water of such quality that dyes took to it kindly. The

tiny river, or rather brook, called the Bievre, which ran softly down

towards the Seine had the required qualities, and by its murmuring

descent, Jean and Philibert pitched the tents of their fortune.

They succeeded, too, so well that we hear of their descendants in

later centuries as having become gentlemen, not of property only, but

of cultivation, and far removed from trades or bartering. Their name

is ever famous, for it tells not only the story of the two original

dyers, but of their subsequent efforts in weaving, and finally it has

come to mean the finest modern product of the hand loom. Just as Arras

gave the name to tapestry in the Fourteenth Century, so the Gobelins

has given it to the time of Louis XIV, even down to our own day--more

especially in Europe, where the word tapestry is far less used than

here.

The tablet now at the Gobelins--let us re-read it, for in some hasty

visit to the Latin Quarter we may have overlooked it. Translated

freely it reads, "Jean and Philibert Gobelin, merchant dyers in

scarlet, who have left their name to this quarter of Paris and to the

manufacture of tapestries, had here their atelier, on the banks of the

Bievre, at the end of the Fifteenth Century."

Another inscription takes a great leap in time, skips over the

centuries when France was not in the lead in this art, and

recommences with the awakening strength under the wise care of Henri

IV. It reads:

"April 1601. Marc Comans and Francois de la Planche, Flemish tapestry

weavers, installed their ateliers on the banks of the Bievre."

"September 1667, Colbert established in the buildings of the Gobelins

the manufacture of the furniture (_meubles_) of the Crown, under the

direction of Charles Lebrun."

The tablet omits the date that is fixed in our mind as that of the

beginning of the modern tapestry industry in France, the year 1662,

but that is only because it deals with a date of more general

importance, the time when the Gobelins was made a manufactory of all

sorts of gracious products for the luxury of palaces and chateaux, not

tapestries alone, but superb furniture, and metal work, inlay,

mounting of porcelains and all that goes to furnish the home of

fortunate men.

In that year of 1667 was instituted the ateliers supported by the

state, not dependent upon the commercialism of the workers. This made

possible the development of such men as Boulle with his superb

furniture, of Riesner with his marquetry, of Caffieri with his marvels

in metal to decorate all _meubles_, even vases, which were then coming

from China in their beauty of solid glaze or eccentric ornament.

Here lies the great secret of the success of Louis XIV in these

matters, with the coffers of the Crown he rewarded the artists above

the necessity of mere living, and freed each one for the best

expression of his own especial art. The day of individual financial

venture was gone. The tapestry masters of other times had both to work

and to worry. They had to be artists and at the same time commercial

men, a chimerical combination.

The expense of maintaining a tapestry factory was an incalculable

burden. A man could not set up a loom, a single one, as an artist sets

up an easel, and in solitude produce his woven work of art. Other

matters go to the making of a tapestry than weaving, matters which

have to do with cartoons for the design, dyes, wools, threads, etc.;

so that many hands must be employed, and these must all be paid. The

apprentice system helped much, but even so, the master of the atelier

was responsible for his finances and must look for a market for his

goods.

What a relief it was when the king took all this responsibility from

the shoulders and said to the artists and artisans, "Art for Art's

sake," or whatever was the equivalent shibboleth of that day. Here was

comfort assured for the worker, with a housing in the Gobelins, or in

that big asylum, the Louvre, where an apartment was the reward of

virtue. And now was a market assured for a man's work, a royal market,

with the king as its chief, and his favourites following close.

The ateliers scattered about Paris were allied in spirit, were all the

result of the encouragement of preceding monarchs, but it remained for

Le Grand Monarque to gather all together and form a state solidarity.

Kings must have credit, even though others do the work. It was the

labour of the able Colbert to organise this factory. He was in favour

then. It was after his acuteness had helped in deposing the splendid

brigand Foucquet, and his power was serving France well, so well that

he brought about his head the inevitable jealousy which finally threw

him, too, into unmerited disgrace.

Colbert, then, although a Minister of State, head of the Army of

France, and a few other things, had the fate of the Gobelins in his

hand. As the ablest is he who chooses best his aids, Colbert looked

among his countrymen for the proper director of the newly-organised

institution. He selected Charles Lebrun.

The very name seems enough, in itself. It is the concrete expression

of ability, not only as an artist, but as a leader of artists, a

director, an assembler, a blender. He called to the Gobelins, as

addition to those already there, the apprentices from La Trinite, the

weavers from the Faubourg St. Germain, and from the Louvre. He

established three ateliers of high-warp under Jean Jans, Jean Lefebvre

and Henri Laurent; also two ateliers of low-warp under Jean Delacroix

and Jean-Baptiste Mozin. When charged with the decoration of

Versailles he had under his direction fifty artists of differing

scopes, which alone would show his power of assembling and leading, of

blending and ordering. Workers at the Gobelins numbered as many as two

hundred fifty, and apprentices were legion.

Ten or twelve important artists composed the designs for tapestries,

yet the mind of Lebrun is seen to dominate all; his genius was their

inspiration. It was he whose influence pervaded the decorative art of

the day. More than any others in that grand age he influenced the

tone of the artistic work. We may say it was the king, we may have

styles named for the king, but it was Lebrun who made them what they

were. The spirit of the time was there, monarch and man made that, but

it was Lebrun who had the talent to express it in art. It was a time

when France was fully awake, more fully awake than Italy who had, in

fact, commenced the somnolence of her art; she was strong with that

brutal force that is recently up from savagery, and she took her

grandeur seriously.

At least that was the attitude of the king. No lightness, no

effervescing cynical humour ever disturbed the heavy splendour of his

pose. And this grand pose of the king, Lebrun expressed in the heavy

sumptuousness of decoration. The tapestries of that time show the mood

of the day in subject, in border and in colour. All is superb,

grandiose.

Rubens, although not of France, dominated Europe with his magnificence

of style, a style suited to the time, expressing force rather than

refinement, yet with a splendid decorative value in the art we are

considering. Flanders looked to him for inspiration, and his lead was

everywhere followed. His virile work had power to inspire, to transmit

enthusiasm to others, and thus he was responsible for much of the

improvement in decorative art, the re-establishment of that art upon

an intellectual basis. Designs from his hands were full, splendid and

self-assertive; harmony and proportion were there. A study of the

_Antony and Cleopatra_ series and of the plates given in this volume

will establish and verify this.

[Illustration: DESIGN BY RUBENS]

[Illustration: DESIGN BY RUBENS]

Lebrun's century was the same as that of Rubens, but the former had

the fine feeling for art of the Latin, who knows that its first

province is to please. A comparison between the two men must not be

carried too far, for Rubens was essentially a painter, attacking the

field of decoration only with the overflow of imagination, while

Lebrun's life and talent were wholly directed in the way of

beautifying palaces and chateaux. Yet Rubens' work gave a fresh

impulse to tapestry weaving in Brussels while Lebrun was inspiring it

in France.

Lebrun had, then, to direct the talent and the labour of an army of

artists and artisans, and to keep them working in harmony. It was no

mean task, for one artist alone was not left to compose an entire

picture, but each was taken for his specialty. One artist drew the

figures, another the animals, another the trees, and another the

architecture; but it was the director, Lebrun, who composed and

harmonised the whole. Thus, although the number of tapestries actually

composed by him is few, it was his great mind that ordered the work of

others. He was the leader of the orchestra, the others were the

instruments he controlled.

It was while at Vaux that Lebrun had more time for his own

composition. He there produced a series called _Les Renommes_,

masterpieces of pure decorative composition. These were designed as

portieres for the Chateau of Maincy. They came to be models for the

Gobelins, and were woven to hang at royal doors, the doors of Foucquet

being at this time dressed with iron bars.

The Gobelins wove seventy-two sets after this beautiful model which

had made Lebrun's debut as an artist. Foucquet had given him a more

pretentious work; it was to complete a suite, the _History of

Constantine_, after Raphael. Rubens had given a fresh flush of

popularity to this subject, which again became the mode. The _History

of Meleager_ was begun at Vaux and finished at the Gobelins. Later,

Vaux forgotten, or at least a thing of the past, Lebrun's decorative

genius found expression in the series called _The Months_ or _The

Royal Residences_, of which there were twelve hangings.

In these last the scheme is the perfection of decoration, with the

subject well subdued, yet so subtly placed that notwithstanding its

modesty, the eye promptly seeks it. The castle in the distance, the

motive holding aloft the sign of the Zodiac, are seen even before the

splendid columns and the foliage of the middle-ground.

Such a hanging has power to play pretty tricks with the imagination of

him who gazes upon it. The columns, smooth and solid, declare him at

once to be in a place of luxury. Beyond the foreground's columns, but

near enough for touching, are trees to make a pleasant shade, and

beyond, in the far distance, is the chateau set in fair gardens, even

the chateau where the lovely Louise de la Valliere held her court

until conscience drove her to the convent.

The set of most renown, woven under Lebrun's generalship, was that

splendid advertisement of the king's magnificence known as the

_History of the King_. Louis demanded above all else that he should

appear splendidly before men. He was jealous of the magnificence of

all kings and emperors, whether living or dead. Even Solomon's

glory was not to typify greater than his. With this end in view, pomp

was his pleasure, ceremony was his gratification. Add to these an

insatiable vanity that knows not the disintegrating assaults of a

sense of humour, and we have a man to be fed on profound adulation.

[Illustration: DESIGN BY RUBENS]

[Illustration: GOBELINS TAPESTRY. DESIGN BY RUBENS

Royal Collection, Madrid]

The subjects for the _History of the King_ were chosen from official

solemnities during the first twelve years of his reign. Lebrun's task,

into which he threw his whole soul, was to celebrate the power and the

glory of his master, to show the king in perpetual picture as the

greatest living personage, and to still his fears with regard to long

defunct royal rivals. His life as a man was pictured, his marriage,

his treaties with other nations, and his actions as a soldier in the

various battles or military conquests. In the latter affairs he had

not even been present, but poet's license was given where the

glorification of the king was concerned. The flattery that surrounds a

king thus gave him reason to think that his persecutions in the

Palatinate and his constant warfare were greatly to his glory.

It is the tapestry in this set that is called _Visit of Louis XIV to

the Gobelins_ that interests us strongly, as being delightfully

pertinent to our subject. The picture shows the king in chary

indulgence standing just within the court of the Royal Factory, while

eager masters of arts and crafts strenuously heap before him their

masterpieces. (Plate facing page 114.)

The borders of these sumptuous hangings are to be enjoyed when the

original set can be seen, for the borders are Lebrun's special care.

The three pieces added late in the reign are drawn with different

borders, and no stronger example of deteriorating change can be given,

the change in the composition of the border which took place after the

passing of Lebrun. The pieces in the set of the _Life of the King_

numbered forty; with the addition of the later ones, forty-three. They

were repeated many times in the succeeding years, but on low-warp,

reduced in size, and without the superb decorative border which was

composed by Lebrun's own hand for the original series.

Francois de la Meulen was Lebrun's able coadjutor in the direction of

this famous set. Eight artists accustomed to the work were charged

with the cartoons, but Lebrun headed it all. It is interesting to note

that the temptation to sport in the fields of pure decoration, led him

into the personal composition of the border. These borders are the

very acme of perfection in decoration, full of strength, of grace, and

of purity. They suggest the classic, yet are full of the warm blood of

the hour; they are Greek, yet they are French, and they foreshadow the

centuries of beautiful design which France supplies to the world.

The colouring of these tapestries seems to us strong, but it is not a

strength of tone that offends, rather it adds force to the subject. The

charge is made that in this suite the deplorable change had taken place

which lifted tapestries from their original intent and made of them

paintings in wool. That change certainly did come later, as we shall

see and deplore, but at present the colours kept comparatively low

in number. The proof of this was that only seventy-nine tones were

discoverable when the Gobelins factory in recent years examined this

hanging for the purposes of reproducing it.

[Illustration: LOUIS XIV VISITING THE GOBELINS FACTORY

Gobelins Tapestry, Epoch Louis XIV]

Lebrun's task in this series seems to us far more simple in point of

picturesqueness than it did to him, for the affairs of the time were

those depicted. They were the events of the moment, and the personages

taking part in them were given in recognisable portraiture. Figure a

tapestry of to-day depicting the laying of a cornerstone by our

National President, every one in modern dress, every face a portrait,

and Lebrun's task appears in a new light. Yet he was able to

accomplish it in a way which gratified the overfed vanity of Louis and

which more than gratifies the art lover of to-day.

The set called the _History of Alexander_ is one of Lebrun's famous

works. In subject it departs from the affairs of the time of the Sun

King, to portray the Greek Conqueror, to whom Louis liked to be

compared. For us the classic dress is less piquant than the gorgeous

toilettes of France in the Seventeenth Century, and the battle of the

Granicus is less engaging than scenes from the life of Louis XIV. But

this is a famous set, and paintings of the same may be found in the

Louvre.

Originally the tapestries were but five, but the larger ones having

been divided into three each, the number is increased. The Gobelins

factory wove several sets, and, the model becoming popular, it was

copied many times in Brussels and elsewhere, often with distressing

alterations in drawing, in border, and in colour.

There were other suites produced at the Gobelins at this wonderful

time of co-operation between Colbert, the minister, and Lebrun, the

artist. Colbert, in his wisdom of state economy, had repaired the

ravages of the previous ministry, and had the coffers full for the

government's necessities and the king's indulgences. Well for the

liberal arts, that he counted these among the matters to be fostered

in this wonderful time, which rises like a mountain ridge between

feudal savagery and modern civilisation.

But Colbert, powerful as was his position, had yet to suffer by reason

of the despotism of the absolute monarch who ruled every one within

borders of bleeding France. Louis began, before youth had left him,

the terrible persecution of the people in the name of religion, and

established also an indulgent left-hand court. The prodigious

expenditures for these were bound to be liquidated by Colbert.

Faithful to his master, he produced the money.

The charm of royalty surrounded Louis, he was idealised by a people

proud of his position as the most magnificent monarch of Europe; but

Colbert was denounced as a tax collector and a persecutor, yet

suffered in silence, if he might protect his king. Before he died,

Louvois had undermined his credit even with the king, and his funeral

at night, to avoid a mob, was a pathetic fact. France has now

reinstated him, say modern men--but that is the irony of fate.

The Tapestry Book · 第 10 / 24 章