My readers could not have failed to remark the numerous innovations in
all classes of dishes throughout this work, which nothing but constant
study, practice, and profound knowledge of the art could have brought to
perfection. In the following Removes still greater innovations will be
found than in any other department, for I have always aimed at producing
the greatest effect upon the last dishes sent to table, particularly as
they are the ones over which each convive has time to pass remarks, and
admire, if properly executed. The transformation of the second course
from the first has never failed to give the greatest satisfaction, and
has often caused the greatest hilarity at table; some parties,
unacquainted with them, have ordered their removal, thinking they
belonged to the first course, whilst others have actually carved them
before discovering their mistake. And, again, those Removes being only
demi-glacé, and not too sweet, refresh the palate, disposes it more
favorably for the dessert, and does not prevent the freely partaking of
the ices which there cannot be avoided. Any kind of ice pudding, however
excellent when done to perfection, is too close an imitation of the
dessert ices, and properly belong to the confectioner.
To regenerate that finish of the dinner, which is very properly much
thought of in England, it only requires a little artistic feeling, which
is soon acquired by practice and perseverance. To simplify them as much
as possible, I have only described one sort of sponge-cake, which is
always varied in flavour by the different kinds of fruits and ices with
which they are filled.
The introduction of atelettes of fruit in the Removes as well as in the
jellies, is also quite a new idea, and renders the appearance of both
very novel as well as very handsome.