In France this vegetable (which is mostly used in England for salads) is
as popular for entrées and entremets as spinach, its bitterness
rendering it very wholesome. Procure twelve heads, pick off all the
green leaves, wash each head in two or three waters, and boil them in
salt and water till tender, then put them in a basin of cold water,
press every one; cut off the roots and chop the remainder fine, but not
quite so fine as spinach, put it in a stewpan, place over the fire, and
stir until becoming rather dry; then add half a pint of good brown
sauce, and a piece of veal glaze the size of a walnut, season with a
little pepper, salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, and dress in a croustade
of bread, or within a border of croutons of fried bread, which you have
stuck upright upon your dish with a stiffish paste made from whites of
eggs and flour; put the dish in the oven till the paste is set, and if
desired, serve poached eggs upon the top.