abaft, and took the people on board, and then made sail for the hitherto
unknown territory of Panti river. We anchored off the main land on the
25th December, that we might discover the mouth of the river, which was
unknown to us. Our Christmas-day was not a very happy one; we did
nothing but drink to the hopes of a better one the ensuing year. On the
following day we weighed, and moved some distance up the river, and then
anchored, waiting the return of the prahu, which had been despatched up
to the town the night before. We had, by the means of warping and
towing, gained about fifteen miles up the river, when we found that it
divided into two branches, and, not knowing which branch to take, we had
anchored, waiting the return of the prahu. As she, however, did not make
her appearance, although she had had quite sufficient time allowed her,
the boats were therefore manned and armed, and we started in search of
the town Gonong Tabor. As bad luck would have it, we chose the left
branch of the river, and, after two days' unsuccessful search, came back
just as we went, but not quite so fresh as when we started. The prahu
had not yet returned, so, taking a new departure, we proceeded up the
right branch. This proved a fine broad river; one portion of it, studded
with small islands, was very picturesque. We soon hove in sight of what
appeared to be a town, although there were no signs of life visible. It
was built on the left side of the river on two small hills, but we heard
no gongs or tomtoms sounding, the usual alarm of all the Malay
settlements on the approach of strangers. When we arrived off it, we
found that the town was deserted. It had evidently but a short time back
been a populous and flourishing place, but it had been destroyed by the
enemy, as, although the houses were standing, the cocoa-nut and other
trees had been all cut down. On the brow of the hill were many graves;
one, which was stockaded and thatched, and the remnants of several flags
fluttering in the wind, denoted the resting-place of a rajah. He little
thought when he was alive that his head would be transported to a head
house some 20,000 miles distant, but such was his fate: science required
it, and he was packed up to add to the craniological specimens in the
College of Surgeons, the gentlemen presiding over which are as fond of
heads as the Dyaks themselves.
We moved up the river till nightfall, and then anchored. We were
satisfied from appearances that we were not far from a town, and,
loading our arms, we kept a very strict look-out.
At daylight the next morning we weighed anchor, and, having passed two
reaches of the river, we came in sight of the towns of Gonong Tabor and
Gonong Satang. We pulled towards them, with a flag of truce, and were
immediately boarded by a canoe, which contained the prime minister, who
made every profession of good-will on the part of his master, the sultan
of Gonong Tabor. We observed with surprise that he hoisted a Dutch flag,
which he requested that we would salute. The captain replied, that they
must first salute the English flag, and, if they did so, he promised to
return the salute. This was complied with; the English flag was saluted
with twenty-one guns, and an equal number returned. The boats were then
anchored off the town.
Immediately after we had returned the salute, we heard an attempt at
music, and this was soon explained by the appearance of a procession
filing through the gates of the town towards the boats. It was headed by
a Malay, bearing the standard of Gonong Tabor,--red, with a white
border; he was followed by another carrying a large canopy of silk,
highly ornamented, and fringed with lace. After this personage came the
prime minister; then two musicians, one playing the drum, and the other
a flageolet of rude construction. These musicians were dressed in red
bordered with yellow, with cowls over their heads. The rear was composed
of a body-guard of Malays, well armed. The whole advanced towards the
landing-place, having been sent by the sultan to escort the captain to
the palace. The captain and officers landed, and, escorted by the
natives, proceeded to the palace, the red silk canopy being carried
over the head of the captain as a mark of honour. The sultan, a
corpulent but fine-looking man, received us very courteously. He
informed the captain that all the white people belonging to the Premier
had been ransomed by the Dutch, whose trading vessels were in the habit
of visiting Gonong Tabor. The captain of the Premier had refused to
acknowledge the Lascars as British subjects, and, in consequence, the
poor fellows had been retained as slaves. They were not, however, at
Gonong Tabor, but at Baloongan, a town of some importance up a
neighbouring river. He added, that four of the Lascars had fallen
victims to the climate, and that there were twelve still remaining at
the above-mentioned town. It appeared that, from some misunderstanding
between the sultans of Gonong Tabor and Gonong Satang relative to the
disposal of the English prisoners, they had come to blows, and were at
this time at open warfare, the two towns being within gunshot of each
other. Gonong Satang was built on a hill on the opposite side of the
river, and was strongly stockaded as well as Gonong Tabor.
[Illustration: PROCESSION OF THE SULTAN OF GONONG TABOR.]
The sultan expressed his desire to enter into an amicable treaty with
the English, and offered our captain his assistance in procuring the
release of the Lascars at Baloongan. This offer was accepted, and, when
we left, a prahu accompanied us to that town.
In the course of the evening the sultan's prime minister and suite
visited the barge, which was moored within a few yards of the
landing-place. We surprised them very much with our quick firing, but
their astonishment was unbounded at the firing of a congreve rocket,
which they perceived carried destruction to every thing in its flight.
The grand vizier was in ecstasies, and begged very hard that the captain
would go up to Gonong Satang, and just fire one or two at their
adversaries in that town. This, of course, was refused.
[Illustration: EARS OF DYAKS AT GONONG TABOR.]
We here fell in with a most remarkable tribe of Dyaks: they wore immense
rings in their ears, made of tin or copper, the weight of which
elongated the ear to a most extraordinary extent. On their heads they
wore a mass of feathers of the Argus pheasant. They wore on their
shoulders skins of the leopard and wild cat, and neck-laces of beads and
teeth. They were armed with the usual parang, blowpipe, and shield. They
were a much larger race of men than the Dyaks of the north coast, but
not so well favoured. We remained here five days, and on the 1st of
January, 1845, went down the river to the ship, accompanied by the prahu
which was to be our guide to Baloongan. The following day we sailed for
Baloongan, and on the 3rd we anchored off the bank where the Premier was
cast away. Her ribs and timbers were left, but the natives had carried
away every thing of value, except a small anchor, which they had not
ingenuity enough to recover. Leaving the ship at anchor here, we again
manned the boats, and, accompanied by the pilot prahu, proceeded up the
Saghai river: the next day we arrived in sight of Baloongan. Heaving to,
to load our guns, and get our fire-arms in readiness (for we expected a
hostile reception), we then hoisted a flag of truce and pulled up to the
town. What first occupied our attention was a green plot in front of the
town, on which were mounted from fifteen to twenty guns, which were
continually pointed so as to bear upon us as we pulled up, and which
were backed by some thousands, I should think, of Malays and savages,
all well armed with spears and knives. This looked like business, but we
pulled on, with the white flag still flying. A canoe came off,
containing, as at Gonong Tabor, the prime minister. He waved with his
hand, ordering us to anchor, and pointing to the guns, which the natives
still continued to train after us. The captain refused to anchor, and
pulled on; we were then almost abreast and within thirty yards of the
battery. As we passed it within ten yards, the natives kept the muzzles
pointed at our boats, and we expected them every moment to fire. Had
they done so, we might have received considerable damage; but what would
their loss have been when we had opened with round, grape, and canister,
and congreve rockets, upon such an exposed and densely crowded
multitude? They contented themselves, however, with yelling, which does
not kill, and, passing the battery, we dropped our anchor close to the
gate of the stockade by which the town was surrounded.
In passing the battery, and refusing to anchor, the captain adopted the
most prudent and safe course; for we had long before discovered that
decision is absolutely necessary with these people. The least hesitation
on our part would have fortified their courage to attack; but they are
so much awed by our superior arms, and I may safely add the superior
courage of our men, that they never will, however much they may
threaten, be the first to come to blows, provided there is no
vacillation or unsteadiness on our parts. This the captain knew, and
acted accordingly.
After returning their salute of twenty-one guns, the captain, with some
of the officers and a party of small-armed men passed through a line of
Dyaks to the hall of audience, which, as usual, was crowded to excess
with armed Malays. The sultan, who was a stout athletic man, received us
very cordially, but his confused manners and restless eyes showed that
he was not at his ease. His dress consisted of a yellow satin jacket,
over which he wore another of purple silk, worked and hemmed with lace.
His trousers and turban were made of similar materials. Shoes and
stockings he had none, and wearing both jackets open, his chest was
exposed. The sultan acknowledged that the Lascars were still in his
territory, but, as two of them were at some distance in the interior, it
would require a few days to bring them in. He appeared very glad that
the business was settling so easily, for he no doubt expected an inquiry
and a demand for all the ship's stores, the major portion of which had
found their way to Baloongan. The chain cables must have been invaluable
to the natives, and I detected several links which had been partly
converted into spear-heads.
There was nothing worthy of remark in the town of Baloongan. We were
very much interested in the Dyak tribes, who were the same as those
described at Gonong Tabor, and in greater numbers. They were equally
tall, and appeared to be the very perfection of savage warriors. They
invited us several times to pay them a visit on the hills, where they
resided. These Dyaks appeared very friendly to us, and one of them, an
intelligent fellow, of the name of Meta, volunteered to take a letter
overland to Mr. Brooke: his mode of travelling was by pulling up the
Saghai river to its source in his canoe, till he came close to the
source of the Coran, and by his account the two rivers nearly meet. He
took the letter, binding it round his head with a piece of linen; but I
do not know if ever it was delivered. One observation I made relative to
these Saghai Dyaks, which was, that much as they must have been
astonished at our arms and equipments, like the North American Indians,
they never allowed the least sign of it to be perceived.
At the end of a week the prisoners returned in a very miserable
condition. They had been at work, pounding paddy and digging yams; and
they stated that they had not sufficient allowed to eat to support
existence, besides being beat about the legs with bamboos. Two of the
twelve died evidently from ill treatment and exhaustion. Their gratitude
at being delivered from their slavery was beyond bounds; and it
certainly is not very creditable to the master of the Premier to have
abandoned them in the way he did, when a word from him would have
procured their liberty.
We returned to the ship, and the next day ran down to the Premier Reef;
the captain then went again to the Panti river, in the boats, to
conclude the treaty with the sultan of Gonong Tabor. This was soon
accomplished; and giving him an union jack to hoist, at which he was
much pleased, we bade him farewell.
We finished the survey of the Premier Shoal, as it is now named, and
then steered for the island of Maratua, which the sultan of Gonong Tabor
had by his treaty made over to the English, representing it as having an
excellent harbour and good water; but on our arrival we were much
disappointed to find an island surrounded by reefs, with only one
intricate passage through them and sufficiently wide only for boats.
Probably the sultan knew no better. As we were very short of water, we
now made sail for Sooloo, and fell in with the Sooloo prahu, which had
been sent to us as a pilot, and which we had never seen since she went
up the river Panti before us. She had been waiting for us outside, and
the people were very much pleased at finding us, as they feared being
taken by the pirates of Tawee-Tawee. After having been nearly wrecked on
a reef, and having grounded on another, we anchored off the Lugutan
islands, and despatched the two cutters in search of water. One of them
attacked and burnt a prahu, because she looked suspicious; the other did
better, she discovered a stream of water, off which we anchored the same
evening. Having completed wood and water, we sailed for Sooloo, where
we arrived on the Sunday. We were surprised to find a French squadron
anchored in the bay. It consisted of the Cleopatra, 50-gun frigate, Rear
Admiral Cecile, with an ambassador on board, the Victorieuse, 22, and
the Alchimede war steamer. They were treating with the sultan of Sooloo
for the island of Basilan, the natives of which had beat off their
boats, with the loss of a lieutenant and four men killed and many
wounded. The island of Basilan is subject to Sooloo, although the
natives have refused to pay tribute for many years. The French, aware of
this, and wishing to establish a colony in the East, offered the sultan
20,000 dollars if he would make over the island to them; but this was
not acceded to, the chiefs being divided on the question. The people of
Sooloo have a great dislike to all Europeans, but particularly to the
French. Treacherous as we and the French knew them to be, we little
thought to have it proved in so fearful a manner. About a mile to the
right of the town is a spring, where all the ships watered. One day some
peculiar looking berries were found in the pool, which, on examination,
proved to be deadly poison, the natives having thrown them in with the
intention of poisoning us _en masse_. The water was of course started
overboard, and intelligence sent to Admiral Cecile, who was highly
incensed.
[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF MAHOMED PULLULU, SULTAN OF SOOLOO.]
It was singular by what means this discovery was made. One of the seamen
of the Samarang complained of a stinging sensation in his feet from
having wetted them in the pool. Our assistant surgeon happening to be on
shore at the time, caused the watering to be stopped, and the pool to be
examined. Buried in the sand, at the bottom of the pool, and secured in
wicker baskets, were found those poisonous berries, which the natives
had concealed there. As soon as Admiral Cecile received the information,
all the water was thrown overboard, and the boats of the whole squadron,
manned and armed, landed the French admiral, the ambassador, and our
captain. They repaired to the palace of the sultan, who not only
expressed his abhorrence of the attempt, but promised to put to death
the parties if they could be discovered. The attempt did not, however,
stop here. In addition to fruit, the boats at Sooloo brought off rice
cakes, which were eagerly bought by the seamen. Some of the chiefs
issued an order for a large number of poisoned cakes, which they
intended for our consumption; but fortunately the order was so extensive
that it got wind, and we were warned of what was intended by a native of
Manilla, who had been captured by pirates and sold at Sooloo. In reward
for this intelligence, we gave him, and others of the same place, a
passage to Manilla, taking care, however, that they should be smuggled
on board. Sailed for Manilla, staid there a few days, and then went to
Batan, from thence to Hong Kong, where we arrived on the 1st of April,
and found the Iris and Castor in the harbour.
[Illustration: TANKA BOATS--HONG KONG,]
There never was, perhaps, so rapid a rise in any settlement made by the
English as that of Hong Kong, considering the very short time that it
has been in our possession. Where, two years back, there existed but a
few huts, you now behold a well-built and improving town, with
churches, hotels, stores, wharves, and godowns. The capacious harbour
which, but a short time ago, was only visited by some Chinese junks or
English opium clippers, is now swarming with men-of-war and merchant
ships. The town extends along the base of the mountain. Every day some
improvement takes place in this fast-growing colony, but, from the
scarcity of building ground, house rent is very dear, and every thing
has risen in proportion. The town which, from the irregularity of the
ground, has but one street of importance, lies under the highest part of
a rock, which is called Possession Peak. It is built on a kind of ledge,
but this is so steep that the basements of the back houses can be seen
over the roofs of those in the front, although the houses are no further
apart than is necessary for the streets. Above the town the rock rises
almost perpendicularly; but every spot which can be built upon is
appropriated, and scattered buildings may be seen half way up the rock,
only accessible by tortuous and narrow paths. The houses are built of
white freestone; many of them are handsome erections, and on a fine day
the town of Victoria has an imposing appearance.
The island is now intersected by roads, in some parts necessarily
precipitous, but equestrians can make the circuit of Hong Kong without
any other risk but from the marauding Chinese, who, in spite of the
police, still find means of exercising their vocation. To the left of
the town of Victoria is a very pretty valley, but in the middle of it is
a swamp, which renders the place so unhealthy that no one can reside
there: some who did, died there; and there are one or two neat little
villas on it, now untenanted and falling into ruins. Strange to say, it
still bears the name of Happy Valley.
The harbour is completely land locked, and has two entrances. One side
of it is formed by Hong Kong, the other by Kow-loon, which is part of
the mainland.
[Illustration: WEST POINT.
HONG KONG.
F. M. DELT.
M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS
LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848]
But all this has its reverse. The unhealthiness of the climate is very
great, and this is impressed upon the stranger while at anchor in the
roads; for the first object that meets his eye is the Minden hospital
ship, with her flag continually half mast high, announcing that another
poor sailor had gone to his long home. When you land you will certainly
meet a funeral; and watching the countenances of the passers by, their
sallow complexions, and their debilitated frames, with the total
unconcern with which they view the mournful processions, you may assure
yourself that they must be of daily and hourly occurrence. And such is
the fact.
I was sorry to find that murders and robberies were most frequent at
Hong Kong, although the police force has been augmented from London, and
is under the charge of an experienced officer. While on shore, I
observed the body of a Chinaman rise to the surface, disfigured in a
horrible manner, and although notice was sent immediately to the
authorities, it was allowed to remain beating against the wharf till
late in the afternoon, when it was towed out and sunk in the middle of
the harbour.
I once witnessed the punishment of a Chinese robber at the market gate;
he had been apprehended on the preceding night. His tail, which was
false, and filled with blades of knives, needles, &c., came off in the
officer's hands. However, he was secured, and received a daily allowance
of fifty lashes, which was continued as long as he was capable of
bearing the punishment, and then he was sent to work on the roads.
I left H. M. S. Samarang at this port, and joined the Iris, commanded by
Captain Mundy, whose high character as an officer and a gentleman I well
knew; unfortunately I was only lent to the Iris, and the consequence
was, as will be seen, I had ultimately to return to the Samarang. I
found that the Iris was to sail for the north coast of China, and I was
delighted at the idea of visiting those parts, which there was little
chance of if I had remained in the Samarang.
[Illustration: CHINESE FISHERMEN.]
One object of the Iris proceeding to the coast of China was to carry
General D'Aguilar and suite on a visit to the most interesting of the
hostage ports. We sailed on the 6th of April, and after a week's beating
arrived at Chapel Island, at the mouth of Amoy bay. This bay is very
spacious, being nearly thirty miles deep. To the left of the entrance is
a high peak, on the summit of which is built a splendid pagoda, serving
as a landmark to vessels coming from seaward. The town of Amoy is built
at the bottom of the bay. Close to it, and forming an inner harbour, is
the island of Ku-lang-so, near to which we dropped our anchor.
Ku-lang-so is a pretty island, about a mile in diameter. Up to the
evacuation of Amoy it had been occupied by our troops; and the remains
of a race course and a theatre prove that the gallant 18th had contrived
to amuse themselves. At the present time it is all but deserted, the
only European residents being Mr. Sullivan, the Vice Consul; the
Chinese, who had been driven from it at the capture of the city, not
having as yet returned. The houses on it are prettily disposed, and some
rich foliage and green pasture give an English character to the scenery,
and are very refreshing, after continually looking at the everlasting
paddy fields, which constitute the principal features of the sea coast
of China. It is to this circumstance that I ascribe the exaggerated
accounts we have of the beauty of the island of Ku-lang-so. It forms,
however, a very pleasant promenade, and may be enjoyed without
interruption from the inhabitants. The city of Amoy is built on a low
neck of land. The houses are of a dusky tint, and from the anchorage are
indistinguishable through forests of junks' masts, which surround the
town. To the right of the town, and extending to some distance, is a
fortified wall, which gave some trouble at the capture. I landed with a
party to walk through the city. The streets are narrow and dirty, the
open shops on either side reminding you very much of Constantinople. The
population is immense, the streets are always crowded. We soon found
that we were objects of attention, and were followed by a mob. It was
with difficulty that we could force our way; and, moreover, the town
having been lately evacuated by our troops, the Chinese thought
themselves secure in venting their animosity, by pushing, jostling, and
throwing stones at us. In this, however, they were mistaken, for being a
tolerably strong party, and knowing that they had a very wholesome fear
of us, we were not slow in resorting to blows when intreaties proved in
vain; and, before we were in the middle of the town, more than one
celestial head had come in contact with the pavement. One had the
impudence to bellow in my face; for which impertinence he received a
facer, which gave him something to bellow for. Those, however, who
"were at a distance had the means of annoying with impunity, and we were
glad to take refuge in a pastry cook's shop, which happened most
opportunely to present itself.
[Illustration: COOK'S SHOP.]
On our entering, we were each presented with a pair of chop sticks, and
a large tray was placed before us, filled with sweetmeats of every
description. There were nutmegs and other spices, ginger, sugar cane,
bamboo, and the knee-bone palm, preserved in the most exquisite manner.
Every thing was so novel, chop sticks not excepted, that it was quite
fearful the extent to which we indulged in the sweetmeats; however, as
we had no maiden aunts ready with their doses, as in our infancy, we ate
and spared not. Cakes of the most recherche description, and pastry, the
lightness of which would have shamed Gunter, were each and all in their
turn discussed; and what was our astonishment to find that, on calling
for the bill, the charge amounted to about sixpence.
We visited as much of the town as the mob would permit, but I shall
reserve my description of a genuine Chinese town until our arrival to
the northward. The joss-houses at Amoy are not remarkable, and one
description of these buildings will suffice for all.
We lay at Amoy for about a week, during which the Mandarins paid us a
full dress visit. They were extremely cautious, and remained on board
for a couple of hours. At their departure we gave them the economical
Chinese salute of three guns. During our stay here I amused myself
principally on the island of Ku-lang-so, and I was not sorry when we
weighed anchor, and, with a fair wind, made sail for Chusan.