the price of them ridiculously cheap. Two of the largest were to be
purchased for about twenty-five shillings worth of calico or any other
European manufacture. Wherever we went on this island, and I may say
over the Indian archipelago generally, the spirit of trade and barter
appeared to be universal; and if the inhabitants of Borneo were inclined
to look into the riches of their island, and with them procure English
manufactures, which when piracy is abolished they will do, the
commercial opening to this country will be great indeed. The scenery in
the bay of Ambong varies from that of the Borneo coast in general. The
bay is backed by a series of small hills, cleared away and partially
cultivated, instead of the low jungle which is elsewhere so universal.
On our way to Manilla we touched at the entrance of a river up which is
situated the town of Tampassook. Bodies of armed men came down in haste
to oppose our landing, which we did with a view of taking sights to
verify the chronometers. We came to a parley before we came to blows,
and the captain drew a line close to the beach, telling the Illanoans
that his men would remain inside of it, on condition that they would
remain outside. This arrangement was agreed to, and the observations
were taken between four or five hundred armed warriors on one side, and
four boats with the guns ready to fire on the other.
The pirates were all very well dressed in stuffs and cloths: they
carried shields so large as to cover the whole body, and long heavy
swords with the handles ornamented with balls and human hair. Many were
on horseback, and formed a very respectable irregular cavalry, wearing a
light loose dress, and armed with long spears and short round shields.
One costume was quite novel, being a coat of armour made of buffalo
leather scaled with oyster shells. Both parties adhered to the
agreement, and all therefore passed off quietly; the observations were
completed, and we returned to the ship.
Tampassook, it is asserted, would be a grand place for booty if it was
stormed, as the inhabitants possess a great deal of money and diamonds.
They are, however, a very brave people, and would not part with their
riches without a terrible resistance.
While off this river we had notice given us that there was a fleet of
100 piratical prahus lying off the island of Balabac. We shaped our
course thither, hoping to surprise them, but we were disappointed: the
birds had flown, and the bay of Balabac was untenanted. We cruised for a
week among the islands in search of them, but could not discover their
retreat; so we shaped our course for Manilla, taking the passage to the
eastward of Palawan, which was considered the best at this season of the
year.
While off the north-east coast of Palawan, our boats left to survey
discovered an Illanoan prahu at anchor off one of the small islands that
surround the coast. The boats gave chase, and the pirates used every
exertion to get away. The gig soon headed the other boats, but gained
very slowly on the pirate, and her muskets caused no apparent execution,
but one of the cutters with the grape from her gun killed several of
their fighting men, who stood on the roof brandishing their krisses, and
fearlessly exposing themselves to the fire. On turning a point the prahu
kept before the wind, and walked away from us so fast that we gave up
the chase.
In about a fortnight afterwards, the Corregidor, a small island at the
mouth of Manilla Bay, hove in sight. On our arriving abreast of it, a
gun-boat came out to board us, and inquire after our bill of health; but
as we had a spanking breeze, and men-of-war do not heave-to to be
boarded, the gun-boat returned to the island as wise as she came out.
Manilla Bay is of immense size, being thirty miles deep, and twenty
wide. Near the mouth of the Bay the land is high, but at the head, where
the city of Manilla is built, it is remarkably low and flat. As we had
the wind in our teeth, and Manilla was twenty-five miles distant, we did
not arrive there till sunset. After shaving the sterns of several
merchant ships, who would have been better pleased if we had given them
a wider berth, we at last dropped anchor about two miles from the town.
Manilla, from the anchorage, has not an inviting appearance. I have said
that the land upon which it is built is very low, and as the town is
strongly fortified, nothing is to be seen from the shipping but a long
line of sea wall, with the roofs of the largest buildings, and a mass of
brick, which we were told was the cathedral, overtopping it. At one end
of this sea wall is the canal, or river, flanked on one side by a mole,
and on the other by a light-house.
Manilla is, however, a very delightful place; and to us, who had been so
many months among savages, it appeared a Paradise. The canal I have
alluded to divides the fortified city from the suburban towns of San
Fernando, San Gabriel, and others, in which are situated all the
commercial houses, stores, godowns, dock-yards, and saw mills. All the
Chinese and lower orders also reside in these suburbs, and I may add
that all the amusements, feasts, &c., are carried on in this quarter.
The city of Manilla within the fortifications is a very quiet, clean,
and well-regulated town, inhabited entirely by the higher orders: the
streets are well laid out, the houses regular, and built of white
freestone. In the centre of the city is the Plaza, on one side of which
is the cathedral, and opposite it the governor's palace; both very
insignificant buildings. The cathedral, which is very ancient, is devoid
of all attempt at architecture, and resembles a huge barn; while the
governor's palace, in appearance, reminds you of a stable.
[Illustration: CITY OF MANILLA.]
During the day the streets of Manilla are perfectly quiet and deserted.
At dusk the people begin to move, and show signs of life. The sallyport
gates are closed at eleven o'clock at night, after which hour there is
neither ingress or egress, and on this point they are most absurdly
particular.
The natives of Luzon are much below the middle size. The men are
slightly made, weak, and inoffensive; the women, on the contrary, are
remarkable for their pretty faces, feet, and figures, set off by a dress
of the most picturesque description: a short petticoat, of
gaily-coloured silk or cotton, and a boddice of similar material, of
sufficient height to cover the bosom, is their usual costume. Their long
jet black hair is allowed to fall in tresses down their backs. Many have
a kerchief tastefully thrown over their heads; and they wear little
velvet slippers, embroidered with gold and silver thread. Their
appearance is extremely captivating to foreigners, who do not in a hurry
forget their graceful mien and the arch glances from their brilliant
eyes. Manilla supports a considerable body of infantry and cavalry, the
whole composed of natives of the island. Their horses are small, as well
as the men, and are not well trained; but the object of the Spaniards is
to make a show to intimidate the Indians, who, having no discipline
whatever, are, of course, inferior even to these very moderate troops.
Not long ago, one of the strongest forts was taken possession of by a
party of rebels, assisted by some soldiers who had revolted: the fort
was recaptured, and, as an example, a dreadful slaughter ensued. The
parade ground, outside the citadel, was the scene of carnage. A large
pit was dug, at the brink of which the victims were placed; they were
then shot, and thrown into this grave. Eighty-two were thus butchered,
and buried in the pit, over which a mound has been raised, to
commemorate their execution.
Outside the town, and half encircling it, there is a splendid
esplanade, between an avenue of trees. This leads to the water, when
the road runs parallel with it for nearly a mile, terminating at one of
the piers of the canal. This is known by the, I presume, correct name of
Scandal Point. A number of carriages, filled with all the _élite_ of
Manilla, turn out on this drive a little before sunset, and the scene is
very gay and exciting. I leave the reader to conceive upwards of 200
carriages passing and repassing, besides equestrians and pedestrians.
The reader may say that it must be like the ring at Hyde Park; but it is
more brilliant, although not in such good taste; and then it is the
beauty of the climate--the contrast between the foliage and the blue
ocean--which gives the effect. No buttoning up to an east wind, nor
running away from a shower; but ever gay, and fresh, and exhilarating.
Here you meet the old Don, enjoying his quiet stroll and cigar, all
alone. Soldier officers, in plain dress and long mustachoes, doffing
their hats to every señora. The English merchant, in his unassuming
undress of a white jacket; the British naval officers, with their gay
uniforms and careless manners, prying, with a sailor's curiosity, into
every pretty face; and now and then a saucy mid, mounted on a hack,
dashing between the line of carriages at a full gallop, disturbing their
propriety, and checking the cavalcade, to the great consternation, real
or assumed, of the ladies. All was gaiety and gladness; on every side
was to be heard the merry laugh and hail of recognition. To add to the
excitement, the bands of the several regiments played the most popular
airs on a parade adjoining to the esplanade.
While the carriages were driving up and down, the vesper bell tolled
from the cathedral. In an instant every carriage stopped--every head was
uncovered, and bent in an attitude of devotion. Horses, women, men--all
as if transfixed: every tongue silent--nothing heard but the bell of the
cathedral, and the light breeze which bore away its vibrations. The
bell at last ceased, and in a moment every thing was in full activity as
before.
Twice a week a military band plays at the public almeda from nine till
ten in the evening; and on one of these nights we started in a carriage
to the spot. The almeda is situated close to the gates of the city, and
joins to the esplanade. It is an open square, bordered with a row of
trees, to which are suspended lamps; while in the spaces between the
trees there are seats for the accommodation of the public. In the middle
of the almeda is a stand erected for the musicians. On our arrival there
we found it well lighted up; the place was surrounded by carriages,
which were empty, their occupants having joined the parade. Following
the example, we mixed with the throng, which was numerous. The women
were mostly collected in groups, and the men were smoking their cheroots
and beating time to the music, which was excellent. Lighting our cigars,
we strolled lazily along, and, by dint of lamp-light and impudence,
managed to form a very tolerable idea of the beauty of the senoras. At
ten o'clock, the band struck up a lively polka, which was the signal for
a general dispersion. This is considered one of the principal and most
favourite recreations at Manilla.
The inhabitants of Manilla are composed of the pure Spaniard, and the
Mustichas, or mixed breed. The former are very proud and inhospitable;
the latter are, on the contrary, very friendly, and, for any little
civility, request that you will make their house your home. The women of
the latter are by far the most preferable: the former are said to be
very deficient in good-breeding and education; like the Indians, they
sleep half the day, and are scarcely alive till sun-down, when they
dress for the almeda or esplanade.
There are very good subscription rooms in the city. Every month they
give a ball, concert, or amateur performance. Strangers are presented
with tickets for these amusements--no thanks to the Spaniards--but from
the kindness of the English merchants, who are nearly all members. I
went to one of these balls: there were plenty of women--more than could
get partners; the music was good, the women well dressed, and they
waltzed exquisitely. Adjoining the ball-room was a billiard-room, in
which those who preferred smoking cigars in a cool room to dancing, with
the thermometer at 90°, had retreated. Nothing can be done at Manilla
without the cigar: they smoke for an appetite, they smoke for digestion,
they smoke when they are too hot, they smoke when it is chilly. As the
hands of the time-piece approached the hour of eleven, every one who
lived outside the city was obliged to be off. We, among others, took our
departure; but when we sought for our carriage, it had disappeared. We
set off at a hard trot, to reach the gates before eleven, but in our
haste we missed the road, and came to a cul-de-sac. We retraced our
steps, but when we reached the gates they were closed. A request to the
officer of the guard we knew to be useless, so we turned back, and
prepared to pass the night in the streets, in our uniforms and swords.
After wandering half an hour up and down without seeing a light or
meeting a soul, I heard a violent hammering at a door at a little
distance. I found it was one of our party, who hammered away, and called
out for "Soda water" between each hammering. "All's right!" said he;
"look here!" And sure enough there was a board outside, with "Soda
Water" painted in large letters in English. This repeated hammering and
demand for soda water at last produced the desired effect. A person in a
dressing-gown and slippers came out into the balcony, and demanded our
business. We explained our extreme thirst and benighted condition; and
as the gentleman hesitated, we again applied to the door, intimating
that if we had no admission, at all events he should have no repose. At
last he sent down to have the door opened. We found that he was a
German chemist, who fabricated soda water, among other articles, and,
knowing the partiality of the English for the beverage, had advertised
it in our language over the door. We passed the night with him very
comfortably at his house, breakfasted with him the next morning, and,
promising to bring the whole of our shipmates to drink soda water for
his benefit till we were blown out like balloons, we wished him
good-bye, and returned to the ship.
Gambling is carried to a great extent in Manilla: the game played is
Monté. We visited one of their gambling houses. Winding our way down a
dark and narrow street, we arrived at a porte-cochère. The requisite
signal was given, the door opened cautiously, and after some scrutiny we
were ushered up a flight of stairs, and entered a room, in the centre of
which was a table, round which were a group, composed of every class. An
Indian squaw was sitting by the side of a military officer, the one
staking her annas, the other his doubloons. I stood by the side of an
old Chinaman, who staked his doubloon and lost every time. The strictest
silence was observed, and nothing was heard but the chinking of the
dollars, and the occasional _à quien_ of the banker, who inquired the
owner of the stakes. Every thing was conducted with the greatest order;
when one man had lost all his money he would retire, and make room for
another. The authorities of Manilla have made every effort to put a
check to this demoralising practice, but without much success. It is
universal, from the highest to the lowest, from the civilised to the
most barbarous, over the whole of the Indian Archipelago.
The Indians of the Phillippines are among the best favoured of the
Asiatic islanders, but they are not reckoned so brave as the Malays.
They are a quiet inoffensive race, clean and well shaped, and are all
converted to the Catholic faith. Their principal amusement is
cock-fighting, which, indeed, is carried to a great extent in all the
islands. Every man in the streets has his fighting cock under his arm,
and groups may be seen at all hours of the day, pitting their cocks and
betting on the issue. The country about Manilla is very pretty, well
cultivated, and studded with thriving villages. The Spanish possessions
in this part of Luzon are confined to about twenty miles in every
direction; the interior of the island being peopled with a race of
savages who occasionally make incursions into the country, carrying away
cattle or any thing else that they can lay their hands upon. I could
obtain no particulars of these aborigines, except that they go nearly if
not altogether naked.
On the 1st of December, our old acquaintance, the Velocipede schooner,
arrived from Sooloo, having on board six Lascars, who had been ransomed
from the sultan of Sooloo by Mr. Wyndham. They had formed a portion of
the crew of the Premier, an English merchant vessel, which had been
wrecked on a reef off the eastern coast of Borneo. The crew, consisting
of Europeans and Lascars, had been divided between the sultans of
Sooloo, Gonong Tabor, and Balungan. One of the Lascars was the bearer of
a letter from the captain of the Premier, stating that he and his crew
were still captives, and trusting that a vessel would be sent to rescue
them, as they were strictly guarded by the natives, and had no hopes of
escape. The Samarang being the only man-of-war at Manilla, the English
consul requested our captain to proceed again to Borneo to obtain these
people, calling at Sooloo in order to obtain information and a pilot.
On the 10th of December we sailed for Sooloo, where we arrived on the
15th. We found the natives preparing for an attack, which they
anticipated from the French, and suspicious that our intentions were
also hostile. Having already described Sooloo, I shall confine myself to
events. The captain, with his officers, went on shore, and had an
audience with the sultan; and having brought an interpreter with us from
Manilla, the conversation was carried on without difficulty.
Refreshments, as lemonade, &c. were handed round as before, and, as
before, the room of audience was crowded to suffocation.
The prime minister, who was a little corpulent man with an aquiline
nose, wore such an expression of low cunning, and eyed us with such
ill-concealed hatred, that we christened him Daniel Quilp, and he was
ever afterwards spoken of by that soubriquet. Our object being made
known, and the sultan's assistance demanded to obtain the remainder of
the prisoners, every obstacle that Quilp could throw in our way was
resorted to; and thus the audience became very tiresome, and I paid
little or no attention to what was said, amusing myself by using my
eyes, instead of tormenting my ears. A heavy red curtain was hung up,
dividing the room into two compartments. Observing that this moved once
or twice, I endeavoured to find out the cause, when several pairs of
black eyes, half hidden in the folds and rents, explained the mystery;
and whilst they were loudly disputing, I was winking and making faces at
the sultan's wives, who, stimulated by curiosity to behold the white
men, were thus transgressing the rules of the harem. But old Quilp
looked very hard at me, and for the ladies' sakes I was obliged to
desist.
Behind the sultan stood a young man very handsomely dressed in crimson
silk, who held in his hands an English finger-glass. We were very much
at a loss to know what his office might be, and also what might be the
office of the finger-glass; but our curiosity was soon gratified; the
sultan beckoned the youth to approach, and as the latter presented the
finger-glass, his highness blew his nose in it.
Indeed, the misappropriation of English utensils in this part of the
world is very absurd, although it is not surprising that an article
coming into their hands, the use of which they have no idea of, should
be appropriated to that use which they consider it best adapted to. On
the occasion of a dinner given to us by the sultan of Bruni, the whole
party were seized with a fit of very indecorous and immoderate laughter,
by finding the centre dish, which was a curry, served up in a capacious
vessel, which in Europe is only to be found under a bed. The curry,
nevertheless, was excellent; and what matter did it make? "What's in a
name? A rose by any other name would smell as sweet."--But to return.
We remained eight days at Sooloo, during which time there was much
altercation and excitement. At last the sultan of Sooloo agreed to send
a prahu with us to pilot us up the river, to the town where the crew of
the Premier were in durance.
During the time that we were at Sooloo, we had evidence sufficient of
the vindictive feeling held by the rabble against Europeans, and at the
same time the various ways they resorted to, to give us an idea of their
superiority. They drew our attention to some old cannon mounted on
rotten gun-carriages; they pointed out the strength of their fort, the
sharpness of their krisses and spears; and we could not but smile at the
false estimate of their and our capabilities. They expressed curiosity
to see our swords, which are always made of finely tempered steel,
although not sharp edged, as they are required more for thrusting and
parrying. Of our mode of self-defence they are ignorant, as they
invariably cut with their krisses; their first attention was, therefore,
drawn to the edge of the sword; passing the thumb along it, and finding
it blunt, they expressed the greatest contempt for the weapon. It was
useless to show them the thrust and parry movements, or to prove the
well-tempered steel by bending the blade till the hilt and point were
almost meeting. A sharp iron hoop in their ideas was preferable to all
the best English workmanship. The Sooloo knives are larger than they
usually are in the Archipelago, and of superior manufacture. By rubbing
them with limes and exposing them to the sun, they stain them in a
manner quite peculiar to the place.
Partly to the machinations of our friend Quilp and the irritable and
proud disposition of the people, who considered that the sultan was
humiliated by listening to reason and remonstrance, we were more than
once very near coming to blows. At last every thing was arranged
amicably; and just before starting, the prime minister, Quilp, and a
large party of chiefs, condescended to pay a visit to the ship.
To guard against treachery, for Quilp was equal to any thing, the
marines were kept under arms, and supplied with ball cartridges. The
ship was soon crowded with chiefs, armed to the teeth, and accompanied
by men with muskets, spears, and shields. It certainly did not look like
a very amicable visit on their part, or a very friendly reception on
ours; but the ship wore a very gay appearance. The guns, nettings, and
booms were covered with the chiefs and attendants dressed in very gay
colours. Groups of them sat down on the decks, and made their remarks
upon what they beheld; while numbers prowled about up and down,
examining, peeping, and wondering. We amused them with firing congreve
rockets, guns, &c., which gave them some idea of our value, and we
therefore combined instruction with amusement. They departed highly
pleased and astonished, and it was evident that we were some degrees
higher in the estimation of Quilp himself.