to compensate Muda with a life annuity of two or three hundred per
annum, and give him a passage to his native city, Bruni, whenever he
should feel disposed to leave Kuchin. Some time had now elapsed since
the signing of the contract, during which Muda had remained at his
palace at Kuchin, enjoying his income, and living on the very best terms
with the Europeans. He now, however, expressed a wish to return to
Bruni, and as it was Mr. Brooke's intention to proceed to that port in
the Samarang, it was proposed that the Phlegethon steamer should embark
Muda and his suite, and that on our arrival at Bruni we should see this
rajah and his brother Bud-ruddeen installed in their positions which by
their birth they were entitled to. Another object was in view, and
expected to be gained by this step. Up to the present, no efforts had
been made by the Bornean government to discountenance piracy; on the
contrary, the plunder of the pirates was brought in and openly disposed
of at Bruni, which is the royal residence. Muda and his brother
Bud-ruddeen were stanch friends to the English, and it was anticipated
that by their being appointed to offices of power, and forcing the
sultan to a treaty to put down piracy, and pay respect to the English
flag, a very important advance would be made towards the extermination
of these marauders, and commerce, once rendered secure, and property
respected, Borneo would soon be brought to a state of comparative
civilisation.
As soon as the two rajahs, with all their wives and suite, &c., could be
got on board of the Phlegethon, Mr. Brooke, and Mr. Williamson the
interpreter, came on board the Samarang, and we sailed. On our arrival
at the island of Labuan, we anchored the ship, and despatched the
steamer, with her cargo, up to Bruni. The captain of the Samarang and
one or two officers proceeded up to Bruni in the barge on the following
day; and I was the midshipman in charge of the boat. We did not arrive
at the city till 8 o'clock in the evening; and it was too dark to
distinguish the houses. With some difficulty, we discovered the steamer,
which was anchored on the main street. We pulled alongside, and landing
the captain and Kuchinians, Adams, the surgeon of the party, and I,
found ourselves in undisturbed possession of the barge.
[Illustration: BRUNI.
(BORNEO PROPER.)
F. M. DELT.
M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS
LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848]
Bruni is called by Crawfurd the Venice of the East; and he is so far
correct, that it is built in the same peculiar way, and is a most
extraordinary town. It is built almost entirely on the water. It is of
great size, containing from thirty to forty thousand inhabitants, most
of whom are Malays, but who, from having so long intermixed with the
tribes on the coast, now style themselves Brunese, after the town. This
town, which is situated where the river forms a wide and shallow
estuary, is built with little regard to regularity. There are, however,
two large main streets, intersecting each other in the form of an
irregular cross. These divide the town into four parts, one of which is
partly built upon terra firma, while the other three portions are
composed of massive wooden houses, built on piles, and just sufficiently
separated here and there to admit of the passage of a canoe. On the
portion which is on dry land is built the sultan's palace, a church or
mosque, and most of the more prominent buildings. It was in the main
street (if such a term may be used), and as near as possible in the
centre of the town, that the steamer was anchored.
When we awoke and roused up it was broad daylight, and the scene was
most novel: surrounding the steamer and the barge, and extending many
yards from them, lay hundreds of canoes, filled with natives of every
tribe to be found on the coast, and dressed in every variety of costume.
From the wild Dusum to the civilised Arab and Malay rajah, natives in
every posture, and decked in every colour, impelled by curiosity, were
crowded around us. Here was a chief, dressed in an embroidered jacket,
sitting cross-legged, and shading himself with a yellow silk umbrella.
There were some wild-looking Dyaks, with scarcely as much covering as
decency demanded, standing up on their narrow canoes, one hand resting
on the handle of their knives, the other on their hips, eying us from
under their long matted hair with glances that told of no good feeling
towards us. In another quarter were women, in a covered boat, whose
jealous lattices only permitted us a glimpse of sparkling eyes, and of
the yellow array which proclaimed them as some of the royal favourites.
As far as you could see on all sides there was a confused mass, composed
of embroidered chiefs, black-eyed women, grey-bearded Arabs, spears,
shields, paddles and umbrellas. Taking out my sketch-book, I amused
myself with drawing the various costumes--no very easy task, as the
canoes were continually on the move; and before I could well catch the
head and shoulders of a native, when I raised my eyes from the paper he
had often disappeared in the crowd, and I found another party and
another costume in his place.
[Illustration: NATIVES OF BRUNI.]
Rajah Muda Hassan had already landed, and 10 o'clock had been fixed upon
as the hour for a full-dress visit to the sultan. As the time
approached, Mr. Brooke, with our captain and the officers composing the
party, came into the barge, and were pulled up to the sultan's audience
chamber. This was a large three-sided building, facing the water, with a
platform in front, on which were mounted five or six leilas, or native
guns. The roof was slightly carved, and the gables ornamented with large
wooden rams' horns. The red and yellow flag of Borneo waved above it.
We were received at the platform by a numerous party of chiefs,
handsomely dressed in silks, satins, and gold embroidery. They ushered
us into the audience chamber, the walls of which were lined with a sort
of cloth, and ornamented with shields. The floor was matted. The chamber
was filled with natives, all well dressed and armed. They sat
cross-legged, preserving a respectful silence. A vacant aisle was
preserved between them leading to the throne, which was at the upper
end of the chamber. The throne was a frame of painted wood, gilt and
carved, and bearing a very suspicious resemblance to a Chinese bedstead.
On this, sitting cross-legged, was the sultan of Borneo, to whom we were
all separately presented as English warriors, &c. &c. Chairs were then
placed in a half circle in front of the sultan, and we seated ourselves.
The sultan, a man of about sixty years of age, is said to be very
imbecile, and under the control of his ministers, who do with him as
they please. He was dressed in a loose jacket and trousers of purple
satin, richly embroidered with gold, a close-fitting vest of gold cloth,
and a light cloth turban on his head. In his sash he wore a gold-headed
kris of exquisite workmanship. His head was bald, and his features wore
a continual air of suspicion, mixed with simplicity. The first is not to
be wondered at, as he lives in the happy expectation of being poisoned
every day. He has two thumbs on the right hand, and makes the
supernumerary one useful by employing it in charging his mouth with the
beetle-nut and chunan, in which luxury he indulges to excess.
Immediately below him were his two body attendants, who have charge of
his beetle-nut box and his weapons. In front of the throne, and inside
the half aisle formed by the Europeans, Seraib Yussef, the prime
minister, Muda Hassan, and Bud-ruddeen, were seated on their hams. On
each side and below the throne were hundreds of attendants or guards;
those in the front row sitting cross-legged, with drawn krisses; those
behind them standing with long spears, tipped with bunches of red
horsehair, in their hands. The remainder of the chamber was occupied by
chiefs, all of them armed.
[Illustration: COURT OF THE SULTAN OF BORNEO.
(SIGNING THE TREATY WITH ENGLAND.)
F. M. DELT.
M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS
LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848]
The communications and demands we had to make were carried on through
Mr. Williamson, the interpreter. The speakers were Mr. Brooke, our
captain, the sultan's prime minister, Muda and Bud-ruddeen, the sultan
occasionally nodding his head in approval of replies made by his prime
minister. The whole of the conversation was carried on in so low a tone
as not to be heard except by those sitting nearest to the throne. The
subject of it was, however, no secret; and it was as follows:--
Near to the mouth of the river, is an island called Pulo Cheremon, on
which the sultan has built some forts. On our entering the river, one of
our boats had been fired at from one of these forts, although the
English flag was hoisted at the time. The demands made in this
conference were, that the proper respect should be paid to the English
flag, that the forts upon Pulo Cheremon should be dismantled, and that
the sultan should reinstate Muda and Bud-ruddeen in offices becoming
their rank. Now, that the first demand was reasonable must be admitted;
but what right we had to insist upon the forts being destroyed, and the
sultan's uncles put into office, I really cannot pretend to say.
Seraib Yussef, who was inimical to the English, expressed his
disapprobation of their demands in very strong terms: as for the sultan,
he had very little to say. As it appeared that there was no chance of
our demands being complied with without coercion, the conference was
broken up by our principals pointing to the steamer, which lay within
pistol-shot of the palace, and reminding the sultan and the ministers
that a few broadsides would destroy the town. Having made this
observation, we all rose to take our departure, stating that we would
wait for an answer to our demands upon the following day. Our situation
was rather critical, only eight Europeans among hundreds of armed
natives taking their sultan in this manner by the beard, when, at a
signal from him, we might have all been despatched in a moment. More
than one chief had his hand upon his kris as we stalked through a
passage left for us out of the audience chamber; but whatever may have
been their wishes, they did not venture further without authority. On
reaching the platform outside, a very strange sight presented itself.
With the exception of a lane left for our passage to the boat, the whole
space was covered with naked savages. These were the Maruts, a tribe of
Dyaks who live in the mountains. The word marut signifies brave. These
naked gentlemen, who are very partial to the sultan, had come down from
the mountains to render assistance in case of hostility on our part.
They were splendidly framed men, but very plain in person, with the long
matted hair falling over their shoulders. They were armed with long
knives and shields, which they brandished in a very warlike manner,
occasionally giving a loud yell. They certainly appeared very anxious to
begin work; and I fully expected we should have had to draw and defend
ourselves. I was not sorry, therefore, when I found myself once more in
the stern sheets of the barge, with our brass six-pounder loaded with
grape, pointed towards them. The poor fellows little knew the effect of
a shower of grape-shot, or they would not have been so anxious for a
"turn-up."
The sultan had offered a house for the accommodation of the Europeans
during our stay at Bruni. It was a small wooden building over the water
and resting upon piles. It communicated by a platform with the Mahomedan
mosque, which was built of brick and of tolerable dimensions. The
interior of this mosque had no other furniture in it except a sort of
pulpit painted, which stood in the centre. Outside on a raised platform
was a very large tom-tom or drum, upon which a native played from
morning to night, much to our annoyance, as it was so close to us.
Religious worship appears at a very low ebb at Bruni, for during the
whole time that we remained there I did not see one person enter the
mosque.
At the back of the mosque there was a piece of green sward, which
separated us from the royal buildings. Passing through the mosque we
strolled over this piece of pasture, when, close to the water's edge, we
discovered several fine old brass 32-pounders, dismounted and
half-buried in the swamp. On inspection we found them to be Spanish,
bearing the inscription of Carolus Tertius, Rex Hispaniorum, with the
arms of Castile above. How they came into the sultan's possession we
could not find out. He was said to value them exceedingly; if so, he did
not show it by the neglect paid to them.
Bruni on a calm day presents a novel and pretty appearance. The masses
of houses appear to float on the water, and the uniformity is broken by
gay flags and banners, which indicate the rank and the office of them
who hoist them. The large square sails of the prahus, the variety of
boats and canoes, the floating bazaar, and the numerous costumes
continually in moving panorama before you, all combine to form a very
admirable picture. Add to this the chiming and beating of gongs and
tom-toms in every cadence, and from every quarter, and you are somewhat
reminded of an Asiatic Bartholomew fair.
The right-hand side of the river, which is opposite to the town,
consists of a series of small hills, which are partially cleared, but
present little appearance of cultivation. Here we were shown a specimen
of the upas tree: it was growing close to a small stone fountain in the
vicinity of some straggling huts. It was a solitary tree, tall and
red-stemmed, with the foliage branching out in a canopy at the top.
So much has been said for and against this tree, usually supposed to be
fabulous, that we looked upon it with great curiosity; and although
aware that its noxious qualities have been much exaggerated, we were
anxious to test its powers, if we could. We procured a ladder, which we
raised against the tree, and one of our party ascended to the uppermost
branches without experiencing the fainting sensation ascribed to be
produced by close contact with its foliage. We then tapped the tree at
the bottom, and there issued from it a white viscous fluid, which the
natives asserted to be a virulent poison, and used by them for dipping
the points of their arrows. We carried off a bottle of this poison, and
having drunk from the fountain beneath the tree, without fear and
without injury, we went away. This was the only specimen of the upas
tree that I saw in Borneo. The lower orders at Bruni, in addition to a
jacket and trousers, wear an immense straw hat of a conical shape, with
a brim as wide as an umbrella. This hat, unless thrown back on the
shoulders, entirely conceals the face. At times, when the river is
crowded with canoes, nothing is to be seen but a mass of these straw
hats, which present a very strange appearance. But the greatest novelty
at Bruni is the floating bazaar. There are no shops in the city, and the
market is held every day in canoes. These come in at sunrise every
morning from every part of the river, laden with fresh fruit, tobacco,
pepper, and every other article which is produced in the vicinity; a few
European productions, such as handkerchiefs, check-cotton prints, &c.,
also make their appearance. Congregated in the main street the canoes
are tacked together, forming lanes through which the purchasers, in
their own canoes, paddle, selecting and bargaining for their goods with
as much convenience as if the whole was transacted on terra firma. Iron
is here so valuable that it is used as money. One hundred flat pieces an
inch square are valued at a dollar, and among the lower classes these
iron pieces form the sole coin. They are unstamped, so that every person
appears to be at liberty to cut his own iron into money; but whether
such is really the case I cannot vouch.
We remained at Bruni for a week, during which time a great deal of
diplomatic duty was got through by the seniors of the party, leaving the
juniors to amuse themselves with discovering fresh objects of interest,
and illustrating every thing worthy of notice.
Our whole party met every evening at the small house which had been
appropriated for our use by the sultan. It staggered fearfully upon its
wooden legs under our accumulated weight, and we constantly expected
that we should be let down into the water. Here we dined and passed the
evening in conversation, with our arms all ready at hand, guns and
pistols loaded, and the boats anchored close along side of us, in case
of any treachery. Every day an interview was had with the sultan, but no
definite answer had been obtained to our demands. On the 6th, however,
it was resolved by our diplomatists that no more time should be wasted
in useless discussion, but that the sultan must be at once brought to
terms; indeed, our own safety demanded it, for the popular feeling was
so much excited, and the people were so indignant at our attempt to
coerce their sultan, that we were in hourly expectation of an attack.
At seven in the evening the party repaired to the audience chamber,
leaving their arms behind them, for they felt that any effort from five
Europeans to defend themselves against so many hundreds, would be
unavailing, and that more would be gained by a show of indifference.
They landed at the platform, and the barge, in which were Lieutenant
Baugh (since dead) and myself, was ordered to lie on her oars abreast of
the audience chamber, and to keep her 6-pounder, in which there was a
fearful dose of grape and canister, pointed at the sultan himself during
the whole of the interview.
It was an anxious time: the audience chamber was filled with hundreds of
armed men, in the midst of whom were five Europeans dictating to their
sultan. The platform outside was crowded with the wild and fearless
Maruts: not a native in the city but was armed to the teeth, and anxious
for the fray.
We, on our parts, were well prepared for fearful vengeance; the barge
was so placed that the assassination of Mr. Brooke and the Europeans
would have been revenged on the first discharge of our gun by the
slaughter of hundreds; and in the main street lay the steamer, with a
spring on her cable, her half ports up, and guns loaded to the muzzle,
awaiting, as by instruction, for the discharge of the gun from the
barge, to follow up the work of death. The platform admitted one of the
steamer's guns to look into the audience chamber, the muzzle was pointed
direct at the sultan, a man held the lighted tow in his hand. Every
European on board had his musket ready loaded, and matters assumed a
serious appearance.
From where I was on the barge, all appeared hushed in the audience room.
I could see the prime minister, Muda, and Bud-ruddeen, as they rose in
turns to speak. I could perceive by the motion of their lips that they
were talking, but not a sound came to our ears. This state of things
lasted about half an hour, and then there was a slight stir, and Mr.
Brooke and his party marched towards us through the crowd of warriors.
By dint of threats he had gained his point. The sultan had signed a
treaty by which he bound himself to respect the British flag, to make
over to us the island of Labuan, to destroy the forts on Pulo-Cheremon,
to discountenance piracy, and to instal Muda and Bud-ruddeen into
offices becoming their birth and high rank.
I have since heard Mr. Brooke remark, that considering the natives were
well aware that our guns were directed against them, the self-possession
and coolness shared by every one of them were worthy of admiration. They
never showed the slightest emotion, their speeches were free from
gesticulation, and even their threats were conveyed in a quiet subdued
tone; and every thing was carried on with all the calmness and
deliberation that might be expected at a cabinet council at St. James's.
Whilst at Bruni, we picked up several specimens of coal, and asking one
of the chiefs if much could be procured, he showed us a few sacks.
Ignorant of its value, he was still cunning enough to perceive how much
interest Ave felt in the discovery, and immediately asked a most
tremendous price for his stock. One would really have thought that we
were bargaining for precious stones; at all events he must have had an
intuitive idea that we considered them as "black diamonds." On the other
hand, an old Arab at Bruni, who had supplied us with one or two live
bullocks, when he saw the Samarang at anchor at the mouth of the river,
had the modesty to offer our captain 400 dollars for her, less than
100l. sterling. Sell dear and buy cheap is the way to get rich, and
proves how fit for commerce are all the people of the archipelago.
While we were lying at Bruni in the barge, one day, when Adams the
assistant-surgeon and myself were sole occupants, we were surprised at
the appearance of a handsomely dressed Malay youth, who stepped into the
boat, greeting us, although strangers, _sans cérémonie_. Always wishing
to study native character, we amused him as well as we could, and on his
departure gave him to understand that he might come whenever he pleased.
About dark we were surprised by a canoe coming under our stern, and the
occupant throwing into the barge several fine fowls and a large basket
of fruit. We could not imagine to whom we were indebted for this
civility, but suspected our Malay friend, and when he came again we
taxed him with it, and he acknowledged it. On this visit he sat in the
boat for some time, appearing to take a great interest in every thing
connected with us, and observed that we were bargaining with the natives
in the canoes alongside of us for the various arms of the country, which
they are content to sell provided they obtain a most exorbitant price.
Our Malay friend went off in his canoe, and in the course of an hour
returned with a large collection of shields, spears, krisses, and mats,
which he begged our acceptance of. Every day did he bring us presents
of some description or another, refusing to take any thing in return,
except perhaps an English pocket handkerchief or something of very
trifling value. Suddenly his visits were discontinued, and we saw no
more of him. One day, dining at the house lent us by the sultan, Mr.
Brooke was talking with some of our party of a young Malay chief, who,
being mad, had attempted to kill his wife, and had in consequence been
placed in durance, but had since been liberated. Mr. Brooke wishing to
speak to him, sent for him, and on his appearance this madman proved to
be our generous unknown.
The day after the signing of the treaty we left Bruni, the steamer
taking the barge in tow, and the same afternoon we joined the Samarang
at our newly-acquired possession, the isle of Labuan. This island is
about thirty miles in circumference, flat, and covered with thick
jungle. It has no inhabitants. Its anchorage is good, being protected by
the main and two smaller islands. The embouchure of a rivulet forms a
small bay, which we dignified with the title of Victoria. We found water
plentiful, and several specimens of coal.
From Labuan we proceeded to Ambong, a place where it was supposed that
an European female had been detained as a slave. Ambong is a pretty
little bay, with a Malay village built in the bight of it, and there is
a fine view of Keeney Balloo, the great mountain of Borneo, in the
back-ground. This mountain, estimated to be 14,000 feet high, is about
forty miles from Ambong, and with the aid of a glass we could discern
cataracts and ravines innumerable. It is certainly a most splendid
affair, on one side rising almost perpendicularly, and in appearance
nearly flat at the top. At sunset, from the bay, its appearance was
splendid. We found nothing at Ambong to lead us to suppose that European
females had at any time been made prisoners by the inhabitants: they
were apparently a quiet, peaceable people, living entirely by
agriculture. Their close neighbours, however, the Moros of Tampassook,
are a notorious tribe of the Illanoan pirates, who are the terror of the
Asiatic seas. It was not improbable that these people might have many
European prisoners as their slaves, but from what we knew of their
character, we felt assured that if they possessed white female
prisoners, they would never consent to their being ransomed.
After making a survey of Ambong, we only waited to take in a supply of
fresh beef, and then started the Phlegethon on her return to Sarawak
with Mr. Brooke and Mr. Williamson, while we shaped our course in an
opposite direction on our way to Manilla.