VOYAGE FROM TURON BAY TO HUE’.--MOUTH OF THE RIVER OF
HUE’.--POLITENESS OF THE COCHIN CHINESE HAS NOT TENDED TO
AMELIORATE THE TREATMENT OF FEMALES.--ARRIVE AT HUE’.--PERPETUAL
WATCH KEPT OVER THE MEMBERS OF THE MISSION.--MILITARY
COSTUME.--THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL’S LETTER TO THE KING SENT
TO THE MANDARIN OF ELEPHANTS.--THE CHINESE TRANSLATION
ALTERED.--INTERVIEW WITH THE MANDARIN.--CANAL SURROUNDING THE
CITY.--BEAUTIFUL PROSPECTS ON THE RIVER OF HUE’.--NEATNESS
OF THE VILLAGES.--HORSES.--SOIL.--FORTIFIED CITY.--FRENCH
MANDARINS.--CONFERENCE WITH THE MANDARIN OF ELEPHANTS.--DIFFICULTY
RESPECTING AN AUDIENCE WITH THE KING.--AN ENTERTAINMENT
SERVED.--FURTHER DISCUSSION.--THE AUDIENCE WITH THE KING
REFUSED.--BEAUTY AND STRENGTH OF THE FORT.--INHOSPITALITY OF THE
GOVERNMENT.--ROYAL BARRACKS.--ARTILLERY STORE-HOUSES.--ENORMOUS
GUN.--CITADEL.--REMARKS ON THE FRENCH INTEREST AT COURT.--THE
PRESENTS FROM THE GOVERNOR GENERAL AND AN AUDIENCE
REFUSED.--POVERTY OF THE BAZAR.
Collecting together whatever seemed most essential during our
excursion, we took possession of our boat about six p.m., and left the
ship, which as on the former occasion, fired a salute. Neither the
painter, nor any one likely to be of much use in procuring objects of
natural history, was permitted to accompany me.
It was feared that, at this season of the year, we should experience
tempestuous weather, a prospect not altogether agreeable to us,
considering that we were to go to sea in an open boat. The Mandarin
comforted himself with the knowledge that the coast, though bold and
rocky, abounded in excellent harbours, which he could at all times
gain without much difficulty. Fortunately, however, the weather was
agreeable during the whole of the passage, and though we obtained
little aid from our sails from the time we left Turon Bay, we reached
the mouth of the river of Hué at three p.m. on the 25th, after a
passage of twenty hours.
It was thought that the ship’s long boat would have kept pace with the
barges, but it turned out quite otherwise. She fell into the rear from
the commencement, and did not reach Hué for a day and a night after our
arrival.
From Turon to Hué, the country, as seen from the ocean, bears a similar
appearance to that between the former place and Saigon. It is bold,
rugged, and picturesque. The chain of mountains is continued; the
ridges bear the same forms and direction. There can be little doubt
but that they are of granitic structure. As you approach the river of
Hué, they increase in altitude, and the peaks become more acuminated.
Yet the aspect is, perhaps, more sterile. On the approach of morning,
however, we were delighted with the union of grandeur and beauty
in the vast prospect before us. The dense white clouds yet rested
tranquilly mid-way upon the mountains, whilst their bold summits were
seen to project into the pure ether. The darker shade of the valley
contrasted admirably with the lighter colour of a few scanty patches
of cultivation. Industry laboured at the oar, and a multitude of small
boats gave life and animation to the scene.
The nature of the soil was too evident, from the situation of numerous
villages erected upon bare and sandy beaches. These had no vestige of
cultivation or of vegetation in their neighbourhood. They depended
solely for subsistence upon the fisheries; and upon the dry sands we
often saw small boats drawn up to the number of several hundreds in
the same place. On the left bank of the mouth of the river of Hué,
there is constructed a small, but remarkably neat fort, with a rampart
surrounded by a stone wall, and the guns mounted _en barbet_. This
place commands the entrance into the river very completely, but does
not appear capable of affording much resistance to a force capable of
using artillery with advantage. The place is remarkably clean and neat.
The walls were almost covered with soldiers, armed with muskets and
lances. To man the walls of a fort is considered by the Cochin Chinese
complimentary, and to be equivalent to our custom of firing a salute as
a mark of distinction.
A little way beyond the fort, the Mandarin brought the boats to anchor.
Here we waited nearly six hours, and when towards evening we expressed
a wish to take a short walk on shore, it was hinted that we must not go
far. A number of people, soldiers and others, followed us. There was
indeed nothing to be seen but a number of miserable huts built upon a
barren and sandy beach.
The mouth of the river of Hué is rather narrow, considering the size
of the river which here discharges itself. On one side it is confined
by an elevated and extensive sand bank, which stretching along-shore,
forms a boundary to an extensive sheet arm of the river, which seems
to stretch towards the W. in search of an outlet. A less elevated
sand bank, on which is erected the fort alluded to, confines it on
the opposite side. At time of high water, there are, it is stated,
sixteen and eighteen feet upon the bar. The entrance is formed by the
sand banks mentioned, and is not more than two or three hundred yards
in length. When you have passed this, you seem to have entered a vast
fresh-water lake, and to be completely excluded from the sea.
The scenery becomes now very interesting. Islands, covered with
cultivation, are visible at a distance; several vast rivers appear to
pour their waters into one basin. Thousands of boats are seen returning
from, or proceeding to sea. There were women in all the boats, and they
seemed to have more than their due share of whatever labour was going
forward. The superior politeness which we had remarked amongst these
people has not ameliorated the condition of females in society.
Whilst we remained here, the Mandarin had sent to Hué to communicate
our arrival, and to request orders. He was directed to wait the arrival
of the ship’s boat, and to send ours on towards the capital. About
nine p.m., we again proceeded, and came to anchor about midnight. The
distance we had traversed may have been about nine miles.
_Sept. 26th._--At this place we remained till morning in our boat.
There was no appearance whatever of a town, yet they declared that we
were now close to it; few houses were visible. The bank was marshy, and
overgrown with weeds; so that it was difficult to approach the land,
but by the assistance of a narrow board. Several spears were stuck up
against a hedge, within which, we were informed, stood the house the
Mandarin of Elephants had allotted for our reception. About seven p.m.
a handsome boat came along-side, and soon after we were requested to
land, and to take possession of our quarters, which we found ample and
convenient. The place was everywhere surrounded by armed soldiers; but
the only inconvenience we experienced arose from the number of persons
who occupied the house with us, and who, by their incessant loud
talking, left us not a moment’s quiet by night or by day. They were
spectators of all our actions, and never permitted themselves to lose
sight of us, but occupied the rooms with us, as well when we were at
meals, as at other times. We were instructed not to pass the sentries,
but to remain within the house until we should be presented at court.
Even our servants were watched with the strictest observation; and it
was not without difficulty that they would grant permission to one of
them at a time to go to the bazar close by, though accompanied by one
of their own people. Nothing could exceed their strictness in this
particular.
Compared with the troops of the native princes of India, and of
the king of Siam, the soldiers we saw here made a very respectable
appearance. Though exceedingly short in stature, they are well made,
and of a robust form. They would appear to be well calculated to act
as light troops; their dress is both convenient and shewy. It would,
perhaps, be difficult to devise one better adapted to the nature of the
climate, the comfort of the soldier, and at the same time uniting that
smartness of appearance so constantly aimed at in military costume.
The principal parts of the dress are as follow:
A conical helmet, without peak, made of basket work, lackered, and in
general gilt: this is strong, but light, and perfectly water-proof. On
the summit of this some wear a plume of red horse-hair and feathers; in
others the plume is wanting. This helmet is worn over the common turban
of the country, and bound by straps under the chin. In dry weather, and
when the men are off duty, the helmet is thrown over their shoulder,
suspended by the straps, in which state it resembles a small shield.
The body is covered with a loose jacket of red serge, or coarse red
cloth, with a short, close collar; this habit is wide, has long
sleeves, is fastened in front by loops and small buttons; it reaches
down to the knee, and is slit on each side; it is turned up with blue
or yellow; over this they wear one or two habits, according to the
state of the weather; these are of yellow serge, the borders of various
strongly-contrasted colours. In shape these exactly resemble the other
habit, except that they have no sleeves. A pair of wide trowsers,
scarce descending below the knee, and made of coarse red or white
silk, completes the dress. The arms, as has been already stated, are
either a musket or spear. The greater number of the former appear to be
of French manufacture. They are furnished with a bayonet like ours, but
they are considerably lighter. They appear to take better care of their
fire-arms than even European soldiers do. They always carry a cover for
the lock, and, on the approach of rain, they carefully wrap up their
muskets in a cloth cover. The accoutrements are similar to those of our
own soldiers, but the leather of which they are made is ornamented with
gilded figures. The cartouche-box is smaller than an English soldier’s.
I had the curiosity to look into one, and found the contents as follows:
A set of men for playing at chess;
A small bottle of scented oil;
A small horn, with pricker, containing apparently priming powder;
A bundle of small, hollow bamboos, each containing a charge of
powder, stopped at one end with paper;
No ball, or shot.
To the outside of the cartridge-box is attached a bucket of
basket-work, for the purpose of containing a couple of sticks, about
six inches long, and an inch broad, a necessary part of the equipment
of every soldier. A similar bucket is attached to the shaft of the
lance. It is by striking these sticks against each other that the
sentinels give note of their watchfulness, and not by passing the
word as with us. The noise is sufficiently loud and shrill. They beat
three strokes every half hour, and it passes thus through the chain of
sentries.
The lance is about twelve feet long. The shaft is of bamboo, admirably
adapted for this purpose; the head about eight inches long. Two bundles
of red horse-hair ornament the summit.
We had scarcely entered our lodging, when a messenger came from the
Mandarin of Elephants to obtain the letter for the king, in order
to its being examined previously to its being submitted to him. Mr.
Crawfurd delivered the letter, together with Portuguese and Chinese
translations, the latter executed by the missionaries at Serampore.
In the course of the day, the mandarin sent some trifling presents of
rice, oil, salt, candles, &c., and a small sum of money, about fifteen
or twenty dollars.
The Mandarin of Turon came to visit us in the evening, and conversed
with us for several hours.
_27th._--The clerk who came yesterday for the letter, now returned with
the Chinese translation, stating, that there were certain expressions
in it which rendered it unfit to be laid before the king. Mr. Crawfurd
had, on the previous day, told him that he would alter any expression
that did not accord with the notions of propriety entertained by the
court. What the objections now were, I am unable to say. Mr. Crawfurd
mentioned one which was to this effect,--that the Governor General
wrote as if he were writing to his equal. This man and several others,
together with Mr. Crawfurd’s Chinese interpreter, were all day occupied
in making the required alterations.
_28th._--The same personage returned with a request to have another
copy of the Chinese translation. It was said that this was intended for
the governor of Saigon; but, on visiting the Mandarin of Elephants,
he told us that he meant to keep that copy by him. About noon, this
copy was finished, and a messenger came to say, that the Mandarin
of Elephants desired to have an interview with the Agent to the
Governor-General. A comfortable and neat boat, rowed by soldiers,
dressed in red, was sent to convey us. We set out at one o’clock,
accompanied by some Cochin Chinese, who were usually waiting at our
quarters. We were two hours in reaching the Mandarin’s house, and the
distance could not be less than six miles from our quarters. We were
nearly at an equal distance from the town, though we had been told that
we were quite close to it. The river is so much divided by islands of
various dimensions, and so intersects the country in every way, that
it is difficult to state more of its course than the general direction
which it takes, and this is, for the most part, from west to east.
In ascending the river, to reach the Mandarin’s, we soon quitted the
branch which we first occupied, and turning to the right, entered a
fine and wide canal, partly natural and partly artificial. This canal
surrounds three sides of the capital, and at both extremities joins
the great river, which lies in front of the fourth. The canal is about
forty or fifty yards wide at its lowest part, where we entered; it
becomes narrower as you ascend, and, at the upper extremity, it is
little more than eighteen or twenty yards across. It is maintained
in perfect order. The sides are regularly sloped, and supported by
embankments, where requisite. Its depth would appear to be, in most
parts, about eight feet. It affords the double advantage of an outward
defence to the place, for which it was doubtless originally intended,
as it bounds the glacis throughout its course, and is extremely
serviceable, as affording water-conveyance to the various parts of an
extensive city.
We had seen little more than the bare walls of our habitation since
our arrival. The most beautiful and luxuriant scenery now burst upon
our view, and we were soon agreed that the banks of the river of Hué
presented the most beautiful and interesting scenery of any river we
had seen in Asia. Its beauties, however, are the gifts of nature more
than of art. A vast expanse of water, conveyed by a magnificent river
through a fertile valley, not so wide but that the eye can compass its
several parts; ridges of lofty and bold mountains in the distance; the
cocoa-nut, the areca, the banana; the sugar-cane, hedges of bamboos,
that wave their elegant tops in the air; rows of that beautiful plant
the hibiscus, are the principal materials which, grouped in various
forms, delight the eye of the spectator. From this we must not separate
the no less interesting prospect of numerous and apparently comfortable
villages. In these the most remarkable circumstance is the neatness and
cleanliness of the houses of the natives, and the cheerful, contented,
and lively disposition of the people. The houses of the better sort
are substantial and large, covered with tiles, the walls being partly
made of brick and mortar, and partly of wood. Besides, they exercise
considerable taste in adorning their grounds and little gardens with
flowers and ornamental trees.
Though we were in the immediate vicinity of a large city, few people
were to be seen; these were at work in the fields, collecting weeds
from the canal, or passing on the public roads. We were still more
surprised to find so few boats upon the river, and of junks we saw
no more than three or four. It is true, that the commercial season
had gone by, yet a large city must have great and constant demand for
transport, at least by means of boats. Besides, the former remark was
alike applicable to Saigon, yet at that place vast numbers of boats
were constantly visible. It is difficult to conceive how so much
solitude should exist under such circumstances. Of those who were
passing on the roads, some were mounted on small ponies, active, but
neither handsome nor strong. There are no horses in the country, and it
is only the lower orders that ride these; nor have we seen them used
for any other purpose.
In our excursions, we observed a considerable extent of the landscape:
on the right bank, which is at no great distance from the hills, it
is diversified into low and high ground, and often rises into hills
of moderate size, the sides of which are cultivated. The general
extent of cultivation is but limited, and the quantity of ground fit
for the production of rice very small; and wherever this is the case,
countries in these latitudes must be considered as poor. Nor can this
place, therefore, be exempted. It is indebted to Saigon and Tonquin
for the supplies of rice. Considerable diversity of soil exists here;
in some parts it is a dry, friable, and almost pure sand; in others,
it consists of stiff clay, and elsewhere these are intermixed. The
alluvion which this great river has formed is extremely small.
As soon as we had entered the canal, we found ourselves in front of
one face of the Fort. The term Fort, which has been applied to this
place, is apt to convey erroneous notions, though it is perhaps as much
a fort as a place of such vast extent can well be. It is, in fact, a
fortified city; and if the French had compared it with such places
as Delhi and Agra, instead of Fort William, the comparison had been
more just. The fortifications of this place are, without question, of
a most extraordinary nature, whether considered in the magnitude of
extent, the boldness of design, the perseverance in execution, or the
strength they display. The Fort appears to be built with the greatest
regularity, and according to the principles of European fortification.
It is of quadrangular form; each side appeared to us to be at least a
mile and a half in length. The rampart is about thirty feet high, and
cased with brick and mortar. The bastions project but little, contain
from five to eight embrasures, and are placed at a great distance from
each other. The walls are in excellent order. We could not distinctly
see whether there was a ditch at the foot of the wall, but were told
that there is. The glacis extends to the canal, and is about 200 yards
in breadth. In many parts, it is rather higher on the banks of the
canal than towards the Fort, but is everywhere commanded by the latter.
Numerous sheds for boats, and for other purposes, are erected on the
glacis.
An enemy on the opposite side of the canal would, in many parts, find
shelter in the brushwood and hedges, and even villages, within reach
of the guns of the Fort, and thence would find the means of attacking
the place with little exposure of his men. But it is not to be expected
that such places are capable of much resistance. They may serve as a
temporary defence against a sudden alarm, and against a tumultuary
attack from irregular troops; but a handful of brave and enterprising
men would soon possess themselves of the place.
The gates are ornamented in the Chinese style, but the approaches are
calculated for the purposes of defence. Within the walls is contained a
square building, surrounded by lofty walls, and apparently very strong.
This is probably the citadel. We had but a very imperfect view of it.
There appeared no reason to doubt that we were brought by this
circuitous route, in order that we might see the extent of the
fortifications.
On leaving the canal, we entered the great river. At the point of their
junction, the view is uncommonly fine; the body of water very great,
the country opposite beautiful and much diversified. The ground here
would appear to be adapted chiefly for the cultivation of sugar-cane,
Indian corn, vegetables, and such seeds as are adapted to a dry soil.
We passed the houses of several persons of rank; they were surrounded
with stone walls and bamboo hedges. The roads in front were good.
After we had proceeded about a mile on the great river, we came to the
house of the Mandarin of Elephants. We waited for a few minutes in our
boat, when we were told to land. As we approached the house, we met
the two French mandarins, Messrs. Vannier and Chaigneaux, who entered
the house along with us. They were dressed in silk robes, according
to the Cochin-Chinese fashion. They are both of them fine-looking old
men, of an amiable expression of countenance. The former had served in
the American war, and appeared to be about sixty-five years of age;
the latter is somewhat younger. They both left France on the breaking
out of the Revolution, and devoted themselves to the service of the
late King of Cochin China, who raised them to their present rank. They
were the companions of the King in his misfortunes as well as in his
prosperity: of twenty Frenchmen who were in his service, they are the
only survivors.
In the court of the mandarin’s house was a crowd of vagrant-looking
people, some dressed in masks, some with painted faces, and hideous
looks. I was informed by M. Chaigneaux that these were players, and
that a Chinese comedy was now performing; and that this and the other
festivities were going forward in consequence of the marriage of the
mandarin’s son, who had just carried home his bride, a lady of high
rank. The music, which was harsh, shrill, and disagreeable, ceased
as we entered. The mandarin was seated upon a small table or bench,
covered with a carpet and furnished with handsome cushions, at one
end of a large, plain, and neat, but rather naked room, open on two
sides. Behind him were the apartments of the women, separated only by
a curtain; they were spectators of the play, and continued here during
the whole time we were present.
On the opposite side of the hall were also suites of apartments, now
occupied by the players, who made their appearance from that quarter.
To the right and left, were disposed a crowd of people in three or four
rows. They consisted of men, women, and children, and many of them
appeared to be miserably poor. Few or no soldiers were present, but one
or two attendants bore swords. We walked up to where the mandarin sat,
and bowed to him. Without quitting his seat, he returned our salute,
and pointed to a couch on his left, where we seated ourselves; the
French mandarins sat in chairs on each side of us. The conversation
which ensued was carried on in French, on our part, and partly in
Portuguese, the French mandarins being the medium of communication in
the former, and a native Christian in the latter.
When we were seated, the chief asked if there was any thing else to be
communicated than what was contained in the letter to the King. Mr.
Crawfurd replied, that the letter contained almost every thing that was
to be said; but that he had a few words to state on commercial matters,
which he would now, or at any time the mandarin thought most proper,
enter upon. The mandarin desired that he might now enter upon whatever
he had to propose.
Mr. Crawfurd then said, that what was chiefly required was that
permission might be granted to British ships to trade to the ports of
Cochin China, mentioning in particular Saigon, Turon-bay, and Tonquin;
and that instructions might be delivered to him respecting the duties
demanded, and the regulations by which the commerce of these places
was conducted. To this the mandarin answered, that the ports of Cochin
China were open to all nations, that the duties had of late been very
considerably diminished, first by the late King, and latterly by
the present; that he would furnish a table or scheme of the duties
collected at different ports; that he would always expedite the affairs
of traders, by immediate attention to them, well knowing the importance
of expedition in matters of that nature.
Mr. Crawfurd said, that this being the case, there was nothing for him
to ask, and that the regulations were very liberal. The mandarin now
observed, that the matter being so very simple, our affairs would soon
be settled; that until they were so it was not usual for strangers
to appear in public; but that being done we had merely to signify to
him when we wished to go abroad, and that he would send a boat for us
and people to conduct us. He farther observed, that he would send the
tariff, and an answer to all matters to-morrow.
Whilst this conversation was going forward, in a loose and somewhat
desultory manner, M. Chaigneaux brought forward the affair of the
damaged muskets sent from Madras by Messrs. Abbot and Maitland. The
mandarin was well acquainted with the circumstance, and it was very
evident that it was now agitated with no good intention.
Mr. Crawfurd now took occasion to ask the mandarin when he might expect
to have the honour of obtaining an audience of the king. We were but
little prepared for the answer to this: that the business of the envoy
being entirely of a commercial nature, it altogether precluded the
possibility of his being admitted into the presence of the king; and
that it was an affair for the cognizance of his ministers. To this Mr.
Crawfurd answered, that it was right that commercial affairs should be
conducted by the king’s ministers, and that he should be happy to have
the honour of conferring with them on this subject, but that commerce
was not the sole object either of the letter to the king or of the
mission; that he had been sent from a distant country, by a powerful
and mighty government, to congratulate the king of Cochin China on his
succession to the throne. That this was of itself to be considered as
an honourable distinction of the king of Cochin China; and that the
obvious and general tendency of the mission was to unite and to cement
the bonds of friendship between the two nations. That the determination
not to receive the envoy of the Governor General of India, a man of
the most exalted rank, the intimate friend of his sovereign, looked
up to by all the world, and holding correspondence with the greatest
kings of the east, was the more surprising, and indeed altogether
unaccountable, for that the late king had received the envoy of the
Governor General, and had given him two public audiences. He concluded
by requesting, that the Mandarin would represent this matter to his
majesty, and obtain from him an early answer. The mandarin answered
that he had already communicated with the king upon the subject, and
such was his determination. That had the Agent to the Governor General
come on any other than commercial affairs, he would have been presented
to the court, but that it was altogether contrary to its customs to
give audience on such occasions. That had Mr. Crawfurd been the envoy
of the king of England, or of any king, he would have been received.
That in this case it was as if the governor of Saigon had sent an
envoy to the imperial court. It was contrary to usage, contrary to the
customs of the country, and could not be done; but for the satisfaction
of Mr. Crawfurd the matter should be again represented to the king.
In the interval, tea had been served, and, at this part of the
conversation, the table was covered with roast pigs, geese, fowls,
and fruit. The subject of the damaged guns was again introduced by M.
Chaigneaux.
We were requested to sit down to dinner. The mandarin continued upon
his seat, a tranquil spectator of what was going on around him. The
meat was served up on China dishes, and the fruit on japanned trays. A
few small liqueur glasses, of coarse manufacture, were placed upon the
table, together with a bottle of common French claret. The knives were
also French, with gilt handles.
After we had partaken of a little fruit, the things were removed, and
the chief asked if we had a desire to see the comedy. Mr. Crawfurd said
that he should wish first to say a few words on the subject of the late
conversation. The Portuguese interpreter was now requested to explain
that it must be well known to the mandarin, and to the court at large,
as it was also to the two French gentlemen now present, that in the
year 1804, the envoy of the Governor General of Bengal, Mr. Roberts,
who was sent in a capacity similar to that of Mr. Crawfurd, had been
received honourably at court, and had obtained two audiences of the
king; that therefore this was a clear and unequivocal proof that it was
not contrary to the usage of the court, that he should be received by
the king; that the envoys of the Governor General were received with
distinction at the courts of the first monarchs of India, and that very
lately he had obtained an audience of a neighbouring monarch, that
of Siam. He concluded by begging that the matter might be taken into
serious consideration.
The Mandarin stoutly asserted and reiterated his assertion that Mr.
Roberts had not obtained an audience of the king. He was reminded that
documents proving the contrary, written by the express order of the
king, were in the possession of the government of Bengal, and that both
Messrs. Vannier and Chaigneaux, who were present on that occasion,
could now testify to the fact. M. Chaigneaux stoutly denied that he
knew any thing of the matter, said that he was sick, and absent. M.
Vannier neither could nor did deny the matter, but remained silent.
The Mandarin knew that nothing but the truth had been stated; yet he
equivocated in the most palpable manner; saying at one time that he
had not been admitted; at another, that it was during war, when any
one might have been admitted to the king; and that since that time the
customs of the court had been altered; and that the magnificence of
the court was reserved solely for the greatest occasions. It was here
observed that the change which had taken place in court etiquette was
not known; and that with respect to the manner in which the mission
was to be received, it was for the king to decide whether the audience
should be public or private. On this the old gentleman dryly observed,
that it was indeed very natural that we should use every expedient to
gain an audience of the king, having come so far for that purpose,
and plainly insinuated that it was all to no purpose. The coolness of
his manner, and the direct inference of the remark, were too much for
us, and we could contain our gravity no longer. The Frenchmen seemed
equally surprised with the Mandarin at seeing us laugh so heartily.
The old gentleman was in fact quite at a loss what to say; and at
last dwelt upon the argument that the etiquette of the court had
been changed. He promised to return an answer to all matters on the
following day.
The players were now introduced. Their performance was so grotesque and
ridiculous, unmeaning and tiresome, that it is not worthy of further
observation. The music also was abominable. We were soon tired of both,
and requested permission to retire. The French gentlemen accompanied us
to our boats.
We returned home by a different route from that by which we came, so as
to make the circuit of the fortress, but it was now dark, and we could
see but little.
_Sept. 29th._--No answer came from the Mandarin regarding the subjects
agitated yesterday. He sent to say that a boat would be sent to take
us to see the place; and in the evening the French gentlemen came to
accompany us. Proceeding up the river, we passed along that part of
the fortress which the darkness had prevented us from seeing on the
preceding evening. This part of the wall has been finished, in the
course of the present year, in a very complete manner. The present
king, however, is not altogether pleased, as his predecessor was, with
the principles of Vauban. He has accordingly built the embrasures on
a plan of his own[23] invention. The order of them is quite reversed,
that is, they are narrow towards the ditch, and wide towards the
rampart! This is the case with all the embrasures on this side of
the fort, and they would seem to be the only objectionable part of
the work. We were now more struck than ever with the great beauty,
magnitude, regularity and strength of this extraordinary work, for such
it is in every point of view. Nothing can be more neat and regular than
all the works, the glacis, the covered way, the ditch, the walls, and
the ramparts. Some of the bridges are made of stone and mortar, others
of wood, supported on blocks of masonry, and all of them remarkably
neat.
When we had passed nearly mid-way along this front, we entered the
place by a principal gate, neatly and strongly built in the European
style, and with simple and few ornaments. The glacis is covered with
short grass, and about 200 yards in breadth. The wet ditch is about
thirty feet broad, supported on each side by masonry, and being on a
level with the river, it always contains water. The wall cannot, I
should think, be less than from twenty to thirty feet high. The French
gentlemen told us that the length of each side was 1,187 toises of six
feet each, and that the walls would contain 800 pieces of cannon. On
entering the gate we turned to the right, and passed along the rampart.
As much care has been bestowed on the construction of the interior
as of the exterior. The place is laid out in squares or quadrangles,
the roads are wide and convenient, and a navigable canal, which leads
to the granaries and magazines, passes through the place. The town,
if so it may be called, is rather paltry; the greater part of the
ground appears to be laid out in ill-cultivated gardens, attached
to miserable, but probably only temporary, huts. The bazars have an
appearance of poverty, yet the regularity of the streets gives an air
of great neatness to the place, and the view both of the country and
town, as seen from the rampart, must be considered very fine. After
passing for more than a mile along the rampart, we were conducted to
the public granaries, consisting of a vast number of well-built,
substantial store-houses. The greatest attention has been bestowed upon
every thing; and the powder-magazines are erected in the midst of tanks.
We were, however, unfortunate in the day we had chosen. It now
commenced to rain with great violence, and the crowd of idle spectators
who had inoffensively followed us so far, began to disperse. We
next passed on towards the palace and the citadel. I could not help
reflecting on the different reception we had experienced at Saigon,
and at this place. There the people were anxious to shew us every
attention, and their hospitality was unbounded. Here we passed in front
of a palace, where there were numerous officers and persons of rank
that saw us, yet though we were on foot, without umbrellas, without
the means of conveyance, overtaken by the rain and drenched with wet,
there was no offer of assistance made from any quarter. It is easy to
conceive what appearance we made under these circumstances.
The palace of the king is surrounded on every side by handsome and
well-built rows of barracks. These were uncommonly clean and very
complete in their structure. The arm-racks, the arms of the men, the
platforms on which they sleep; the apartments for officers, were all
disposed with the greatest neatness and regularity. The men though not
armed, were disposed with regularity in the verandahs; and all of them
in uniform. Of some regiments the uniform is blue, with red sleeves; of
others, white with red, and so forth. The officers are distinguished
by a circular patch of embroidery in front of each shoulder. These
barracks would lose little in comparison with the best we have in
England.
When we had passed through several suites of these, we were proceeding
on towards our boats, being unwilling to continue longer in the wet.
The commander of artillery wished, however, to shew us his department,
and sent to recal us. His department was indeed well worth seeing. We
had not seen one gun on the walls of the fort, but here was a display
calculated to surprise us. It were an endless task to enumerate all
the different sorts of iron and brass guns, their sizes, and other
circumstances connected with them. Four very large buildings, or
sheds, were entirely filled with guns mounted and dismounted, of every
description. There were also a considerable number of mortars, and an
ample supply of shot and shells. A great number of very fine brass guns
were pointed out to us that had been cast by the late king, and among
them nine of immense size. The officer of artillery observed that the
latter were too large to be serviceable in war, but that the king had
intended them as a memorial both of himself and of the works executed
during his reign. They were mounted upon carriages, finished with as
much care as the guns themselves. The gun-carriages in general were
uncommonly well finished, and made of a hard and durable wood called
Sao, procured chiefly from the province of Dong-nai or Saigon.
The palace of the king is so completely surrounded by the barracks,
that except on passing one or two of the gates, we could see nothing
whatever of the buildings. The citadel is a small quadrangular
building, with strong and lofty walls, close to the palace. It is
altogether an edifice not calculated to excite any peculiar interest.
It had now become so dark that we could see nothing more of the
buildings, and therefore returned to our boat. What we had seen was
well calculated to give us very favourable notions of the capacity of
the Cochin Chinese. Every thing was in a style of neatness, magnitude,
and perfection, compared to which, similar undertakings by other
Asiatics were like the works of children. These wear the semblance of
the preparations of a bold, enterprising, and warlike people. Such
were the sentiments which a view of these objects was calculated to
produce. A more extensive acquaintance with the people tended to
qualify them. It was already easy to perceive that the master-mind
which had projected and created such great works no longer influenced
their continuance. He had set that in motion which his successors,
it may be suspected, are scarce equal to carry on or to preserve.
Above all, it was easy to perceive that the genius which had directed
every thing was French. The late king shewed, doubtless, a great and
unprejudiced mind in following their plans. But another Pharaoh has
arisen who knows not[24] Joseph. The French interest, there seems
every reason to believe, declines daily, and with the two Mandarins
of that nation, one of whom is about to return to his native country,
it will probably cease altogether. The proposals made by the French
court since the peace, and their attempts to enter into a more close
union, have been kept a profound secret. Whatever may have been their
nature, it is clear that they have been rejected by the Cochin Chinese.
China, and not France, is the example which the present court follows
in every thing. No Frenchmen have been received into its service since
the death of the late king; and though we have reason to believe that
the councils of the two, now in office, have not been favourable to the
interests of the mission, it is alike evident that they were totally
incapable of influencing the court in favour of the proposals of their
own countrymen. When they saw that we were surprised and disappointed
at the determination of the court to refuse an audience to the envoy of
the Governor General of India, they insinuated indirectly that there
were others who had also been refused; and subsequently told us more
plainly that we ought to be the less concerned at this refusal, for
that M. Cargariau, Captain of the French frigate Sybil, bearing letters
and presents from the French minister of marine, had been refused an
audience of the king in 1817. It was to little purpose that we told the
Frenchmen that the cases were by no means parallel; like the Mandarin
of Strangers they always dwelt as a _dernier resort_ upon the change of
court etiquette that had taken place.
With this manifest decline of French interests and councils, it remains
to be proved, whether without such influence, the Cochin Chinese are
capable of maintaining that spirit which has raised their country
to its present rank, and advanced it beyond the condition of its
neighbours.
_1st Oct._--We went to visit M. Chaigneaux, but not finding him at
home, we proceeded towards the principal bazar accompanied by his
nephew, an intelligent young man. We had seen but a small part of the
bazar, when a petty officer informed Mr. Crawfurd that we must have an
order from the Mandarin of Strangers,--on which we turned back. The
bazar was well supplied with the more coarse and common articles of
Chinese, but afforded very little of domestic, manufacture.
Soon after our return home, the assistant to the Mandarin of Strangers,
the same old man that had come to take the letter for the king, came
from the former to say that as the English had not yet had any commerce
with the country, and could not therefore have gained any advantages,
his majesty could not think of accepting the presents; but that if
the English should return another year, he would then accept whatever
was agreeable to him, paying for the same, in money, or in produce;
that with respect to the ceremony of being presented at court, it was
necessary to have all the mandarins in their robes, and all the court
in their full dresses; that this was a great ceremony, reserved for the
envoys of kings; that had Mr. Crawfurd come from the king of England,
he would have been presented, but that in the present case it was as if
the governor of Saigon sent an envoy to a monarch.
He added further that the tariff should be sent, and that the English
should be permitted to trade to all the ports of Cochin China and
Tonquin, on paying the established duties. He advised that the ship’s
long boat should be sent back without delay, for that the bad season
might otherwise prevent her altogether from returning; that we
ourselves might proceed either by sea or by land to Turon bay.
This was probably the most favourable, and perhaps the only,
opportunity for making a representation on the subject of the
presentation. Such representation might, it is possible, though in my
opinion not at all likely, have produced some delay or alteration in
the commercial concerns, and this was doubtless Mr. Crawfurd’s reason
for expressing his satisfaction at the arrangements that had been
made. There remained, in fact, nothing to be asked on the subject of
commerce; so that they had made no concessions, no sacrifices whatever
on that account. They would receive our ships as they did those of the
Chinese, the French, the Dutch, the Americans. Where we had no favour
to ask, no boon to solicit, we might, it seems to me, have urged what
is due to a great government, and has been accorded by other nations of
India, with the greater warmth.
Before this man had left us, Messrs. Vannier and Chaigneaux came to
visit us. They had been sent by the king to explain what had been said
by the assistant to the Mandarin of Strangers. Their communication was
to the same effect as that of the other. It was on this occasion that
they mentioned that M. Cargariau had not seen the king.
_October 3._--After passing the morning with M. Chaigneaux, we visited
the principal bazar. It consists of a spacious street about a mile in
length, with shops on either side the whole of its length. Many of the
shops are mere paltry huts, made of palm-leaves; the rest are more
substantial houses, constructed chiefly of wood, and have tiled or
thatched roofs. Here, also, the poverty of the shops was particularly
striking. A very large proportion contained nothing but shreds of gilt
and coloured paper used in religious ceremonies, and at funerals.
Chinese porcelain, of a coarse description; fans, lacquered boxes,
Chinese fans, silks, and crapes, the two latter in small quantity;
medicines without number, coarse clothes made up, large hats made of
palm-leaf, and a sort of jacket of the same material; rice, pulse, and
fruit; sago, made from the seeds of a species of nymphæa, were the
common articles exposed for sale. There were but few, and those very
coarse articles of manufactured iron, as nails, hatchets, and chisels,
which bore a high price.
The Cochin Chinese carry purses, in which they put their betel and
tobacco; these are very neat, and usually thrown over the shoulders of
the men; they are made either of plain blue silk, or embroidered in
gold, and may be had at all prices, from half a dollar to fifteen. Men
of rank have them carried by their servants. In this bazar the shops
are held almost entirely by natives of the country. There are scarcely
any Chinese amongst them.
FOOTNOTES:
[23] This mode of constructing embrasures had been long before
strenuously recommended by some military writers.
[24] Possibly we may be allowed to doubt the validity of our author’s
opinion on this point; it may be that the monarch of Cochin China in
1822, had heard of the drama of Constantine Phaulkon, M. Chaumont, and
the Jesuits, which was acted by command of His Majesty the French king
in 1688, at Bankok and Louvo.
For an account of the extraordinary alliance projected between the
kings of France and Cochin China, and which was disconcerted only by
the breaking out of the French revolution, see the historical sketch in
Barrow’s Cochin China from p. 250 throughout. The political importance
attaching to such a connexion is incalculable; every one must in this
agree with the opinion of Mr. Barrow, that “it is difficult to say what
the consequences of such a treaty might have been to our possessions in
India, and to the trade of the East India Company with China; but it
is sufficiently evident that it had for its object the destruction of
both.”