THE AUTHOR PROCEEDS TO SAIGON.--RIVER OF
SAIGON.--SAIGON.--SUPERSTITIOUS EMBLEMS.--M. DIARD.--COCHIN
CHINESE FEMALES AND MORALITY.--MARKETS.--MANUFACTURES.--BINGEH
AND SAIGON.--FORT.--CONFERENCE RESPECTING THE GOVERNOR GENERAL’S
LETTER.--RETINUE OF THE MANDARINS.--HOSPITALITY OF THE CHINESE
SETTLERS.--AUDIENCE OF THE GOVERNOR OF SAIGON.--COMBAT BETWEEN
A TIGER AND ELEPHANTS.--PROCEED TO TURON.--COAST OF COCHIN
CHINA.--FISHING TRIBES.--BOATS.--TURON BAY.--GEOLOGY, &C.--VISIT
TURON.--A LIMITED NUMBER ALLOWED TO VISIT HUE.--WRETCHED
ACCOMMODATIONS FOR THE PASSAGE.
At six, P.M., we left the ship, a salute being fired on the occasion,
and the ship’s crew giving us three cheers. The barge selected for our
accommodation was comfortably as well as elegantly finished. Continuing
to row all night, notwithstanding that it rained incessantly, we were
at day-light but a short way from Saigon, and reached it at nine,
A.M. Each boat is furnished with a suitable number of officers. The
discipline of the men rests chiefly with the second, whose rank may
be equal to that of serjeant or corporal. He cheers the rowers by the
repetition of a few wild notes, which can scarce deserve the name
of a song; and he beats time to the stroke of the oar by means of
two short sticks of hard wood. The discipline of these soldiers is
severe, for even this petty officer has the power of inflicting several
hundred lashes of the rattan for slight offences. The rattan is kept in
constant exercise, as we found on our arrival at the town.
The river of Saigon is about the size of that of Siam, but appears
to carry a greater body of water. It is navigable to ships of all
sizes. It is less tortuous than most rivers, and its waters are less
turbid. Its banks are mostly covered with mangrove. We found amongst
them a very elegant species of Rhizophora, but observed no cultivation
until we were within twenty or thirty miles of the town. The number
of boats that were passing and repassing was but infrequent. As we
approached the town, we were surprised to find it of such extent. It
is built chiefly on the right bank of the river. We had already passed
a distance of several miles, and were still in the midst of it. The
houses are large, very wide, and for the climate, very comfortable.
The roof is tiled, and supported on handsome large pillars, of a
heavy, durable, black wood, called Sao. The walls are formed of mud,
enclosed in frames of bamboo and plastered. The floor is boarded, and
elevated several feet from the ground. The houses are placed close to
each other, disposed in straight lines, along spacious and well-aired
streets, or on the banks of canals. The plan of the streets is superior
to that of many European capitals.
We were now conducted to a house that had been prepared to receive
us. Several thousands of the people, besides a numerous guard of
soldiers, armed with lances, were collected to receive us. The crowd
conducted themselves with a degree of propriety, order, decency, and
respect, that was alike pleasing as it was novel to us. All of them
were dressed, and the greater number in a very comfortable manner. They
all appeared to us remarkably small; the rotundity of their face, and
liveliness of their features, were particularly striking. The mandarin
who had accompanied, conducted us to our house, and placed us in the
hall, upon benches covered with mats, opposite to each other. A number
of people were in attendance to take up our baggage, and to make such
arrangements in our quarters as we should deem necessary. The house
was one of the best in the place. It was difficult to say, whether it
partook more of the temple, or of the court of justice. In every house,
in every building, whether public or private, even in the slightest
temporary sheds, is placed something to remind you of religion, or, to
speak more accurately, of the superstitious disposition of the people;
and, as the emblems of this nature have for the most part a brilliant
appearance, they produce an effect as agreeable to the first glance
as it is striking. At one end of this hall was an altar, dedicated to
Fo, ornamented with various emblematical figures, and hung round with
inscriptions. It was easy to perceive, that affairs of state and of
religion were here inseparable. Each partakes of the same gold and
the same varnish. Immediately behind this, were placed our private
apartments. A crowd of soldiers at all times filled the court and the
ante-room, and a guard was placed in attendance at the gate and wicket.
At noon, two mandarins of justice came to confer with the Agent to
the Governor General. We received them upon our benches, immediately
in front of the altar of Fo. They were men that had passed the age
of fifty, short in stature, of easy and affable manners. They were
dressed in black turbans, and black robes of silk. They commenced the
conversation by making inquiries respecting our accommodations; then
turned to the objects of the mission, inquiring how long since we had
left Bengal; whether the letter for the king of Cochin China was from
the king of England, or from the Governor General of India; what were
the precise objects of the mission; whether we had orders to visit
Saigon, or the contrary; and if we had been at the court of Siam. To
all of these queries the answers were so plain and so candid, that
it seemed impossible they could either misunderstand or misrepresent
them. On one or two subjects, they shewed the greatest anxiety. We were
earnestly and repeatedly asked, if we came into their country with
friendly or with hostile intentions. This subject was urged with so
much earnestness, that it was impossible not to forgive their fears,
though groundless, and to participate in feelings which appeared to
proceed solely from the love they bore their country.
They now requested that the letter to the king of Cochin China should
be sent for, in order that the Governor or Viceroy of Saigon might be
enabled to forward a translation to court, together with a full report
upon the subject of our visit, but it was thought improper to comply
with this request for the present. They seemed quite satisfied with the
answers that were given, and continued the interview for nearly six
hours, conversing almost all the while on matters of business. Before
their departure they ordered provisions for our use; and soon after
arrived a living pig, ducks, fowls, eggs, sugar, plantains, and rice.
In the evening, we were visited by M. Diard, a lively and
well-educated Frenchman, of the medical profession, who had been led
into these countries by his desire to prosecute subjects of natural
history. He had already traversed most of the Indian islands, in
which he has made numerous and valuable zoological discoveries, the
subject which has principally attracted his attention. Already he has
discovered four or five new species of Simia, and as many species of
the genus Sciurus. In Java, he discovered that the large deer of that
place was a species altogether unknown to naturalists. He thinks that
he has discovered a fourth species of Rhinoceros, and is satisfied
that the Sumatran species is a distinct one. The number of new species
of birds which he has discovered is very considerable. M. Diard is
evidently a man of great enterprise and acuteness, and admirably
qualified for the arduous pursuit in which he is engaged. He is fond
of adventure, and ingenious in overcoming obstacles. From him we may
expect a full account of the zoology of these countries. He has wisely
assumed the costume, and adopted the manners of the people among whom
he resides. If there be any thing amiss in the character of Diard,
it is, (and it is with hesitation and doubt that I make the remark,)
perhaps, a disposition to over-rate the number, extent, and value of
his discoveries; and perhaps too, an ardour of zeal, which may be apt
to lead one beyond the precise limits of accurate observation. He has
been about a year in Cochin China, and four months at this place. It
is with the greatest difficulty that he can obtain from the government
permission to visit any part of the interior. He had but very few
objects of natural history, in consequence, to shew us.
_August 30th._--On going out in the morning, the guard placed at the
gate seemed doubtful whether he ought to let me pass. On my approach,
however, he drew back respectfully; but strenuously objected to
allow any of our people to pass the gate, till seeing me wait for
the painter, he permitted him to accompany me. An early visit to the
market-places served to confirm the observations I have already made
respecting the manners of the people. The Cochin Chinese cannot, I
think, be considered as a handsome people in any way, yet, amongst the
females, there are many that are even handsome, as well as remarkably
fair, and their manners are engaging, without possessing any of that
looseness of character which, according to the relation of French
travellers, prevails amongst this people. The conduct of both sexes is
agreeable to the strictest decorum. Chastity, in which they have been
accused to be wanting, would appear to be observed, in the married
state, with as much strictness as amongst their neighbours, or any
other Asiatic nation. The breach of it is held criminal, disgraceful,
and liable to punishment. It is not so, however, with regard to young
and unmarried females. Here the utmost latitude is allowed, and, for
a trifling pecuniary consideration, the father will deliver up his
daughter to the embraces of the stranger or visitor. No disgrace, no
stigma attaches to the character of the female, nor does this sort of
connexion subsequently prevent her from procuring a suitable husband.
Such commodities as are used by the natives were to be found in great
abundance in every bazar. No country, perhaps, produces more betel
or areca-nut than this. Betel-leaf less abundantly; fish, salted
and fresh; rice, sweet potatoes, of excellent quality, Indian corn,
the young shoots of the bamboo, prepared by boiling; rice, in the
germinating state, coarse sugar, plantains, oranges, pumeloes, custard
apples, pomegranates, and tobacco, were to be had in the greatest
quantity. Pork is sold in every bazar, and poultry of an excellent
description is very cheap. Alligator’s flesh is held in great esteem,
and our Chinese interpreter states that dog’s flesh is sold here.
The shops are of convenient size, in which the wares are disposed to
the best advantage. One circumstance it was impossible to overlook,
as it exhibits a marked difference of taste and manners in this people
from that of the nations of India. Articles of European manufacture
have, amongst the latter, in many instances, usurped the use of their
own; and you can scarce name any thing of European manufacture which
is not to be had in the bazars. Here, with the sole exception of three
or four case bottles, of coarse glass, there was no article whatever
to be found that bore the least resemblance to any thing European.
A different standard of taste prevails. A piece of cotton cloth was
scarce to be seen. Crapes, satins, and silks, are alone in use, the
greater number of them the manufacture of China or of Tonquin, there
being, in fact, little or no manufacturing industry here.
The articles which they themselves had made were not numerous. I may
specify the following: handsome and coarse mats, matting for the
sails of boats and junks, coarse baskets, gilt and varnished boxes,
umbrellas, handsome silk purses, in universal use, and carried both
by men and women; iron nails, and a rude species of scissors. Every
thing else was imported from the surrounding countries. In exchange,
their territory affords rice in abundance, cardamoms, pepper, sugar,
ivory, betel, _&c_. There are a few wealthy Chinese who carry on an
extensive trade here; the bulk of the people is miserably poor, and
but few amongst them are in a condition to trade but upon the most
limited scale. Few of the shops in the bazars appear to contain goods
of greater value than might be purchased for forty or sixty dollars,
and the greater number are not worth half that sum.
It is difficult to conceive that a population so extensive can exist
together in this form, with trade on so small a scale: there are, in
fact, two cities here, each of them as large as the capital of Siam.
That more recently built is called Bingeh; the other, situated at the
distance of a mile or two, is called Saigon. The former is contiguous
to a fortress which has been constructed of late years, on the
principles of European fortification. It is furnished with a regular
glacis, wet ditch, and a high rampart, and commands the surrounding
country. It is of a square form, and each side is about half a mile in
extent. It is in an unfinished state, no embrasures being made, nor
cannon mounted on the rampart. The zig-zag is very short, the passage
into the gate straight; the gates are handsome, and ornamented in the
Chinese style. We could not procure any information respecting the
population of the two cities.
A mandarin of higher rank, together with the two we saw yesterday,
came to transact business with the Agent of the Governor General; a
protracted conversation, in all respects similar to that which had
taken place yesterday, was commenced by him. He insisted that the
letter, as well as Mr. Crawfurd’s credentials, should be sent for;
this point was acceded to, and a boat was immediately despatched to
the ship, for the letter to the King of Cochin China. The mandarins
continued with us till a late hour in the evening.
_31st_, at _eleven_ a.m.--The letter arrived, and in the course of
an hour thereafter, the mandarins who had visited us first, came to
ascertain its authenticity, and to report upon the contents of it.
It was late in the evening before they could be made to understand
the subject of it, or the nature of the Governor General’s proposals
respecting commerce. An English copy of the letter, and translations in
Portuguese and Chinese, were furnished to them. M. Diard was present
at, and took a part in, the conferences that were held with the
mandarins.
_Sept. 1st._--It would appear that the Governor of Saigon had no
objections to offer upon the subject of the documents which had
been furnished yesterday; a mandarin now returned for copies of
them, stating that those which had been first furnished were to be
immediately despatched to Court. As soon as these had been furnished,
we set out in a boat with M. Diard, to visit Saigon. The distance of
this town from the citadel is about three miles, but there are houses
along the banks of the river the greater part of the way. The paucity
of junks and coasting vessels in the river was accounted for by the
lateness of the season. The number of boats that were passing and
repassing was, however, very considerable. The country here presented
the appearance of extreme fertility; the banks were covered with areca
and cocoa-nut trees, plantains, jack, and other fruit-trees. Numerous
navigable canals intersect the country in every direction, offering
every facility for the increase of commercial industry. Here, as in
Siam, the more laborious occupations are often performed by women, and
the boats upon the river are in general rowed by them. A practice,
as ungallant as it is unjust, prevails both here and in Siam; that
of making females only to pay for being ferried across rivers, the
men passing always free. The reason alleged for the practice is, that
the men are all supposed to be employed on the King’s service. It is
lamentable to observe how large a proportion of the men in this country
are employed in occupations that are totally unproductive to the state,
as well as subversive of national industry. Every petty mandarin is
attended by a multitude of persons.
The town of Saigon is built upon a considerable branch of the great
river, and upon the banks of numerous canals. It is the centre of the
commerce of this fertile province, the town of Bingeh being but little
engaged in such pursuits. A few settlers from China carry on trade on
an extensive scale, but the Cochin Chinese are for the most part too
poor to engage in occupations of this nature.
We landed about the middle of the town, and after proceeding a short
way, we entered the house of a Chinese. He received us with great
civility, and invited us to partake of refreshments; he said that he
was anxious for traffic with the English, and had now upon his hands
commodities suited for that trade.
We passed several hours in visiting various parts of the town, and
returned to our quarters in the evening highly gratified with all we
had seen, and with the most favourable impression of the manners and
disposition of the people. The attention, kindness, and hospitality we
experienced, so far exceeded what we had hitherto observed of Asiatic
nations, that we could not but fancy ourselves among a people of
entirely different character. We were absolute strangers, who had come
to pass a few hours only in the town; yet in almost every street we
were invited by the more wealthy Chinese to enter their houses, and to
partake of refreshments. They could not have known beforehand that we
were to visit the place, yet some of the entertainments laid out for us
were in a style of elegance and abundance that bespoke the affluence,
as well as the hospitality, of our hosts.
Amongst others, we were invited by three brothers who had been settled
in the country for some time. They wore the Cochin-Chinese dress, and
in appearance differed but little from the native inhabitants. Their
manners were engaging, perfectly easy and polite; their house was both
handsome and spacious, nor did any thing appear wanting to render it
a very superior mansion, even in the opinion of an European. They
received us in a large, well furnished ante-room; a table was soon
covered with a profusion of fruit, the most delicate sweetmeats, and a
variety of cakes and jellies. They insisted upon attending us at table
themselves, nor could they be induced to seat themselves while we were
present. Tea was served out to us in small cups; a large table was
also spread for our followers, who were supplied with sweetmeats in
profusion. Our hosts conversed but little; they were apparently as much
pleased with our visit, as we with the kind reception they had given us.
Let others say from what motives so much hospitality and attention
were bestowed upon perfect strangers by these intelligent and
liberal-minded Chinese; for my own part, I must do them the justice to
believe that they were of the most disinterested nature.
The bazars of Saigon contain in greater abundance all that is to be
found in those of Bingeh. Coarse china and Tonquin crapes, silks and
satins, Chinese fans, porcelain, &c., are the more common wares in the
shops. The streets are straight, wide, and convenient. The population
extensive. We entered a very handsome Chinese temple, built in good
taste, and highly ornamented. The Cochin Chinese temples, though
apparently dedicated to the same objects of worship, are of inferior
appearance.
_Sept. 2d._--We were told that the Governor would give an audience to
the Agent of the Governor General at an early hour. About ten a.m.
the mandarin, who had conducted us from the ship, came to say that
the Governor waited our arrival. Being asked what conveyance had been
prepared for us, he said that we must proceed on foot. This being
objected to, five elephants were sent for. These were furnished with
haudahs, such as are used by the natives of India. A few minutes
brought us into the citadel, where the Governor resides. His house,
though large, is plain, and without ornament, in the interior or
exterior. It is situated nearly in the centre of the fort, in an
open space. When we had arrived within fifty yards of the entrance,
we were requested to descend from our elephants, and to proceed the
remainder of the way on foot. A crowd of soldiers, armed chiefly with
spears, occupied both sides of the court. The Governor, surrounded by
the mandarins, was seated in a large hall, open in front. We advanced
directly in front of him, and taking off our hats, saluted him
according to the manner of our country. Chairs had been provided, and
we took our seats a little in front, and to the right of the mandarins.
In the back part of the hall sat the Governor, upon a plain, elevated
platform, about twelve feet square, and covered with mats, on which
were laid one or two cushions. On a lower platform to his left, and
a little in front, was seated the Deputy Governor, a fine-looking
old man, who appeared to have passed the age of seventy. Directly
opposite to the latter about a dozen mandarins, dressed in black silk
robes, were seated in the Indian manner, on a platform similar to that
opposite; and behind these stood a number of armed attendants, crowded
into one place. In front of the Governor, two Siamese, who had come
hither on their private affairs, lay prostrate on the ground, in the
manner that they attend upon their own chiefs.
The Governor of Saigon is reputed an eunuch, and his appearance in
some degree countenances that notion. He is apparently about fifty
years of age, has an intelligent look, and may be esteemed to possess
considerable activity both of mind and body: his face is round and
soft, his features flabby and wrinkled; he has no beard, and bears
considerable resemblance to an old woman: his voice, too, is shrill and
feminine; but this I have observed, though in a less degree, in other
males of this nation. His dress is not merely plain, but almost sordid,
and to the sight as mean as that of the poorest persons.
He had requested that the letter from the Governor General of Bengal
should be brought with us to the audience. Seeing it in my hand, he
inquired what it was I held; and having examined the gold cloth in
which it was contained, he returned it, at the same time observing that
having, according to the custom of the country, taken copies, it must
not be again opened.
He now inquired how long it was since we left Calcutta, and what our
respective ages were. He observed that it was customary for kings only
to write to kings;--“How then,” said he, “can the Governor General of
Bengal address a letter to the King of Cochin China?” He seemed to
comprehend what the objects of the mission were, and to view them in a
favourable light. “All ships,” he observed, “are permitted to trade
with Cochin China. If,” he continued, “the subjects of the King of
Cochin China visit Bengal or any other British settlement, it is right
that while there they should be amenable to the laws of the country,
and be judged by them. In like manner the subjects of other nations
resorting to Cochin China must be governed and judged by the laws in
use in that country; that otherwise there could be no strict justice.”
He asked if we were going direct to Turon, or the port of Hué, and what
conduct the Agent of the Governor General meant to pursue on arriving
at that place. He was told that a report of our arrival should be
immediately forwarded to court from that place; on which he observed
that the mandarin of elephants was in charge of matters of this nature,
and would give all requisite information on the subject of commercial
affairs.
I have above described, in general terms, the nature and extent of the
conversation that transpired. The mandarins appeared to be perfectly at
their ease in the presence of the Governor, exhibiting neither fear nor
awe of any kind. They frequently addressed questions to us during the
interview. The conversation was carried on through the medium of the
Portuguese language, by means of a native called Antonio.
Towards the close of the conversation, M. Diard came in, dressed in
the style of a mandarin, and took his seat beside us. Tea was offered
to us, according to the usual custom.
In front of the hall was a cage containing a very large tiger, which
the governor had caused to be caught, in order that he might exhibit
to us a fight between that fiercest of animals, and the elephant.
We were asked if the spectacle would be agreeable to us, and on our
replying in the affirmative, he gave the necessary directions on the
subject. In the midst of a grassy plain, about half a mile long, and
nearly as much in breadth, about sixty or seventy fine elephants were
drawn up in several ranks, each animal being provided with a mahawat
and a hauda, which was empty. On one side were placed convenient seats;
the governor, mandarins, and a numerous train of soldiers being also
present at the spectacle. A crowd of spectators occupied the side
opposite. The tiger was bound to a stake, placed in the centre of the
plain, by means of a stout rope fastened round his loins. We soon
perceived how unequal was the combat; the claws of the poor animal
had been torn out, and a strong stitch bound the lips together, and
prevented him from opening his mouth. On being turned loose from the
cage, he attempted to bound over the plain, but finding all attempts
to extricate himself useless, he threw himself at length upon the
grass, till seeing a large elephant with long tusks approach, he got
up and faced the coming danger. The elephant was by this attitude,
and the horrid growl of the tiger, too much intimidated, and turned
aside, while the tiger pursued him heavily, and struck him with his
fore paw upon the hind quarter, quickening his pace not a little. The
mahawat succeeded in bringing the elephant to the charge again before
he had gone far, and this time he rushed on furiously, driving his
tusks into the earth under the tiger, and lifting him up fairly, gave
him a clear cast to the distance of about thirty feet. This was an
interesting point in the combat; the tiger lay along on the ground
as if he were dead, yet it appeared that he had received no material
injury, for on the next attack, he threw himself into an attitude of
defence, and as the elephant was again about to take him up, he sprung
upon his forehead, fixing his hind feet upon the trunk of the former.
The elephant was wounded in this attack, and so much frightened, that
nothing could prevent him from breaking through every obstacle, and
fairly running off. The mahawat was considered to have failed in his
duty, and soon after was brought up to the governor with his hands
bound behind his back, and on the spot received a hundred lashes of the
rattan.
Another elephant was now brought, but the tiger made less resistance
on each successive attack. It was evident that the tosses he received
must soon occasion his death. All the elephants were furnished with
tusks, and the mode of attack in every instance, for several others
were called forward, was that of rushing upon the tiger, thrusting
their tusks under him, raising him, and throwing him to a distance. Of
their trunks they evidently were very careful; rolling them cautiously
up under the chin. When the tiger was perfectly dead, an elephant was
brought up, who, instead of raising the tiger on his tusks, seized him
with his trunk, and in general cast him to the distance of thirty feet.
The tiger fight was succeeded by the representation of a combat of
a different description. The object of it was, to shew with what
steadiness a line of elephants was capable of advancing upon, and
passing the lines of the enemy. A double line of entrenchments was
thrown up, and in front of it was placed upon sticks, a quantity of
combustible matter, with fire-works of various descriptions, and a few
small pieces of artillery. In an instant the whole was in a blaze, and
a smart fire was kept up. The elephants advanced in line, at a steady
and rapid pace, but though they went close up to the fire, there were
very few that could be forced to pass it, of all them shuffling round
it in some way or other. This attack was repeated a second time, and
put an end to the amusements.
The governor now called us to the place where he was seated, and said
it would be agreeable to him if we would remain another day, to see
the city; and that a comedy should be prepared for our amusement. Mr.
Crawfurd stated our reasons for wishing to depart, and we took our
leave of him, much gratified with the attention he had shewn us.
_Sept. 3rd._--The boats we had come in were in attendance at an early
hour. We embarked at six a.m., and reached the ship about five p.m. of
the same day.
On the following morning, we weighed anchor, and continued our voyage
to Turon with a strong s.w. wind. On going out of the river, the ship
had very nearly struck upon a shoal or bank, not marked in the charts.
_Sept. 14th._--The voyage from Cape St. James to the western bound of
the bay of Turon, was accomplished in moderate weather, and with a
fair wind, until we approached the bay, when the winds, though light,
became contrary. We have in consequence been off this point for the
last four days, without being able to get into the harbour though so
near, a strong current, apparently from the gulf of Tonquin, carrying
the ship to the westward. The coast of Cochin China, from Cape St.
James to the bay of Turon, is singularly bold and picturesque. A
continuous and lofty chain of mountains stretches throughout the whole
of this distance, in the direction of the sea-coast, that is from S.E.
to N.W. There rarely intervenes any considerable distance between the
mountains and the sea-shore, the latter being either abrupt, bold, and
precipitous, or begirt with a narrow sandy beach. The ranges of hills
are numerous, and for the most part are seen to rise above each other
in gradual succession, as they recede from the sea. Their abrupt,
acuminated, and ridgy forms, their steril summits, their steep flanks,
leave little room to doubt that the greater part, and the whole of the
western half of these mountains are granitic. Near to the middle of the
chain, they become less bold and less elevated, while their forms are
rounded at top. With this change, increased fertility of the soil, and
a country better adapted for the support of man, comes into view. Here
human industry struggles against the inequality of the soil. Numerous
fields are observed to occupy the sides of the hills, and a vast fleet
of boats plying in the open sea, indicates the existence of a numerous
population. Some of the islands along the coast are also cultivated
in a similar manner. Indian corn, the smaller kinds of grain, as the
Cynosurus coracanus, some species of pulse, yams, sweet potatoes, and
capsicum, are all that such soils can be expected to produce; and
together with an abundant supply of fish, would appear to constitute
the food of the inhabitants of this part of the coast. Their boats are
in shape similar to those of the Malays, but are differently rigged,
having a large square shaped sail in the middle, and one at each end,
somewhat similar to the former. At a distance they look like small
ships. They are extremely numerous, several hundreds of them being
sometimes in sight, and all under sail. They are not to be induced to
visit ships upon their passage this way.
Such numerous fleets of boats naturally suggest scenes of industry,
social happiness, and domestic comfort, connected with them. We imagine
that in them we see the active aim that is to furnish to thousands of
their fellow-citizens a large proportion of their daily sustenance.
We imagine that this numerous body of men cannot but acquire wealth
themselves, while they at the same time enrich the state. How different
the picture which a more close inspection portrays! With scarce a rag
of clothes to cover them; without either house or home, other than that
which their frail bark, covered with a sorry matting, affords, with
a scanty supply of poor and perhaps, unwholesome, food; in this way
does a numerous but wretched population lead a life of misery. The more
barbarous of the _Orang Laut_ are not more squalid, or more wretched,
than many of the fishing tribes that occupy the coasts of Cochin China.
The facility with which subsistence, though a miserable one, is to be
procured in this occupation, will account for the great numbers that
are engaged in fishing. It requires no funds, and but little industry,
to put a family in the way of providing for itself. Hence every boat
is for the most part the residence of a single family, and as the
source from which they derive their subsistence is inexhaustible, there
appears to be no limit to the increase of marriages amongst them. A man
of ordinary industry is capable of constructing with his own hands,
the machinery and materials necessary for the existence of himself and
family. Of these, the boat is the principal and an indispensable part,
and here we observe a much cheaper and easier mode of constructing
them than is generally adopted throughout these seas. The practice of
hollowing out single trees must be painful, tedious, and difficult.
The Cochin Chinese have substituted, in its stead, a sort of basket
work, of very close texture, of which they form both the bottom and
the greater part of the sides of the boat. This close basket-work,
or matting, is made of split rattans, and being stretched upon the
frame, is well covered with pitch. The upper work is, however, formed
of one or two planks, and the boat is further strengthened by a deck
of the same materials. In the centre there is a small space covered
with matting, the sole accommodation of the occupiers; bamboos serve
for masts; the bark of trees is made into tackling; a few mats, sewed
together, are the only sails, all of which, as well as fishing nets
and lines, are made by every man for his own use. Thus equipped,
they launch into the deep, carrying with them all that they possess,
wander from bay to bay in quest of a subsistence, which their squalid
and wretched forms would lead us to believe to be precarious and
inadequate. Though for the most part under the shelter of a bold and
rocky coast, they are to be found at times far out at sea. The night
and their idle time are invariably spent under the shade of trees,
or on some sandy beach. Here they indolently saunter away their time
till necessity again calls for exertion. Their share of toil may be
considered moderate; the structure of their boats being such as to
admit of their sailing with all winds, and in every direction.
On the _15th September_, we succeeded in gaining the bay of Turon. A
salute of twenty-one guns was fired from the ship as soon as she had
cast anchor; a small fort on shore returned three.
The bay of Turon is completely land-locked, and were its entrance as
easy as its interior is safe, it would be justly numbered among the
best of harbours. The difficulty we experienced in gaining it was no
doubt, in some degree, to be attributed to the lateness of the season,
the contrary winds having by this time set in, which together with a
current of great strength, carried the ship to the westward.
We found ourselves here transported as it were into a fine, tranquil
lake, surrounded almost on every hand by bold and lofty hills, covered
with wood to their summit. Though there was here an assemblage of
all that is usually considered favourable to the production and
developement of the rich and beautiful in natural scenery, the general
effect fell short of our expectation. We had, in fact, passed beyond
that favoured belt of the equatorial region, on which nature has
so lavishly bestowed her richest and most striking beauties. The
activity and energy of vegetable life, which had so often attracted
our admiration by the vast and varied forms to which it gave birth,
was no longer sustained. A prospect more steril, and less varied,
met the eye. A soil more than usually barren, supported more stunted
forms of arborescent vegetation. Extensive sandy beaches for the
most part surrounded the shores, except where they are rendered more
bold by the projection of granitic rocks. The great extent of the
bay, indeed, forming a basin of a circular form, the serrated tops of
the mountain ridges, partially enveloped in mist and gray clouds, the
number of boats that are always to be seen sailing to and fro, and
the bold forms of a few rocks, confer upon this harbour a peculiar
interest. In point of scenery, however, it is greatly inferior to that
of Trincomalee, to which the absence of cultivated land, and the want
of human habitations, assimilate it in other respects. Here and there
on the shores of the bay are to be found the huts of a few wretched
creatures who live by fishing: whilst agriculture may be said to have
no existence. Neither the betel, nor the cocoa-nut, is to be seen, nor
a palm of any description; a few acres of rice ground are scarcely
deserving of mention. The sweet potatoe and the Sesamum orientale
thrive better; yet every thing indicates an ungrateful soil.
To the botanist, the mountains that surround the bay afford a field
for researches as interesting, as it is inexhaustible. It would be
difficult to specify any locality that produces a greater variety of
plants than this. The taller wood on the hills being cut down for
fuel, appears to be highly favourable to the production of herbaceous
plants. The daily excursions of our party were the means of adding many
valuable plants to my collection. To the kindness of Mr. Crawfurd,
I am indebted for a considerable portion of these; he not only gave
directions for the necessary accommodations for my servants, who had by
this time become experienced collectors, but was himself successful in
making discoveries.
When we had been some hours at anchor, a mandarin of respectable
appearance came off, accompanied by a considerable number of followers,
dressed in uniform. This mandarin was a remarkable contrast to the
generality of his countrymen. He talked but little, and that very
slowly; he asked few questions, yet shewed considerable curiosity.
He was about forty years of age, had a thin person, short stature,
and like the rest of his countrymen, a round face. His manners were
uncommonly good. He was well dressed, according to the costume of the
country. It is scarcely requisite to observe that the object of his
visit was to ascertain whence we came, and what were our views. We
learned from him that our arrival had been expected for some time. He
inquired first of all, if the letter for the King of Cochin China was
from the King of England: he then desired to have a list of the names
of the persons on board.
After remaining several hours, he took his leave, stating that he
should report the arrival of the mission to his superior, the chief
mandarin of Fai-Foh, he himself being a mandarin of letters, and chief
of the village of Turon.
This man returned on board on several occasions; on one of which he
carried with him a letter from the chief of Fai-Foh to the Agent of the
Governor-General, together with presents of fish, fruit, ducks, fowls,
pigs, and a bullock. It was rumoured that we should be invited to visit
Fai-Foh, while an answer was expected from the capital. This appears,
however, to have been merely a vague rumour, and we have heard nothing
further of it since.
_20th Sept._--Mr. Crawfurd visited the mandarin of Turon, who had been
now several times on board. Lieut. Rutherford and myself accompanied
him on this occasion. The village of Turon lies nearly three miles
distant from the usual place of anchorage. The approach to it is
through an extensive shallow bank, which lies against the mouth of
the river; at which place, and on the left bank, there is a small,
nearly quadrangular fort, surrounded by walls of sand and a ditch.
On the opposite side of the river, at a considerable distance, we
observed several redoubts. The walls of the fort were well manned as
we approached; every man was armed either with a lance or musket, and
these alternated with each other. The appearance they made was rather
imposing.
We proceeded to a public building, where, after waiting for a short
time, we were joined by the mandarin. Refreshments were ordered, and he
conversed on indifferent subjects. A number of attendants, all of them
well dressed, occupied the room. Some of them were seated at a distance
on low platforms, while others stood erect. We were soon after joined
by a mandarin of the army, commander of the fort, and equal in rank to
the other man. He was a little, meagre, smart man, about the middle
age. His dress was superior to that of the other, more in point of
quality than in form. He was accompanied by about thirty well-dressed
soldiers, armed with spears. He excused himself, on account of
sickness, for not waiting upon Mr. Crawfurd sooner.
Taking our leave of the mandarins, we passed on to the village. It is
disposed in a straggling form, along the bank of the river, to the
distance of a mile or more. The houses are neat, comfortable, and
clean. They are generally surrounded by a paling of small sticks. We
observed little or no culture of any sort. The Jatropha curcas formed
hedges; the Calophyllum inophyllum shaded walks. A few Convolvuli and
other flowers were all that we found here. The bazar is an indifferent
one, but poorly supplied even with fish. The people behaved towards us
with remarkable civility.
_23rd._--Each day adds considerably to the number of our plants.
In the evening, the mandarin of Turon came on board, accompanied by
an interpreter, who spoke the Portuguese language, from the capital.
He came to inform Mr. Crawfurd, that two barges had been sent from
Hué for the purpose of taking him to that place; that these would
afford accommodation for ten persons, and requested that no more than
that number might be brought, for that his orders on the subject were
peremptory.
This communication was a disappointment to us all. Our curiosity,
augmented and heightened by what little we had already seen of the
country, was thus doomed to be disappointed at the very moment we
thought its gratification within our reach. It was evident that the
whole party could not proceed to the capital; and yet it may be
supposed that all were anxious to see a country so little known and so
little frequented by Europeans,--a country which, adopting the example,
and policy, and discipline of European nations, yet not involving
itself in the slightest degree in their interests, or the dangers of
their influence, has, within the period of a few years, made advances
in civilization, in political strength, and in military science, which
render it formidable to the surrounding nations.
After much discussion, it was finally agreed, that fifteen persons,
including the crew of the ship’s long boat, required for the transport
of our baggage, should be allowed to proceed.
It next remained to be decided what persons were to accompany Mr.
Crawfurd. Captain Dangerfield, his assistant, represented that his
situation gave him the first claim, and that he would not waive it
without sufficient reason, an argument which was forgotten when Mr.
Crawfurd represented that I spoke the Portuguese language, and that
therefore I should be more useful on this occasion than one who did
not. Matters being thus arranged, the requisite number of followers
was selected. It was made a particular request that none of the sepoys
might be brought.
Had nothing been said respecting the number of persons that were
to proceed in the boats, it might have been supposed that the
government had concluded that they had sent what they conceived to
be ample accommodation for the whole. But they had already been put
in possession of the fullest information on every subject regarding
the mission: and a list of the number of persons constituting it had
been transmitted, together with other documents. They were therefore
perfectly aware of our numbers. Had the mission, as fitted out from
Bengal, appeared at court, it would have made an appearance both
respectable and imposing; but this, it was very obvious to perceive,
the court was desirous to avoid. Not only did they strenuously and
firmly oppose every thing like a decent and respectable appearance
in the mission, but they carried this conduct so far as to infringe
even upon the personal comforts of the reduced number that were to
proceed. It was evident that their object was to render the mission as
obscure as possible, and to give it an indifferent reception. This was
subsequently rendered the more conspicuous by their sending persons of
mean condition to confer with Mr. Crawfurd on the subject of the letter
to the king. The governor of Saigon, who had behaved in a polite and
courtly manner toward us, had said, that on our arrival at Hué, the
Mandarin of Elephants would transact business with the Agent to the
Governor General; but this personage was contented to send his deputies
for that purpose.
On the _24th_, about three p.m., the two barges sent from the capital
came alongside. The mandarin who commanded them was the finest figure
of a man we had yet seen since we entered the country. He was advanced
in years, yet hale and even athletic. He was, in fact, a perfect
figure of an old soldier, inured to toil and accustomed to hardships.
He proposed that we should sail towards evening, and stopped to dine
with us. The Cochin Chinese make no difficulty of eating of whatever
is placed before them: and both this man, who sat with us at table,
and his followers, partook of almost every dish. They are, in fact,
rather coarse feeders. When we came to examine the boats, we found the
accommodation they afforded more wretched than we had anticipated.
The boats, indeed, made up in length for what they wanted in breadth;
they are fashioned like canoes, very narrow, but extremely long. They
contained forty rowers each, and were provided with a few small brass
swivels. The only accommodation left for us, was a narrow, close place,
covered with a paltry bamboo matting, of a rounded form, one end of
which was left open to creep in at. It was not sufficiently high to
allow even of our sitting erect. We had, of course, concluded that
the two boats were to be at our disposal, but to this arrangement
the Mandarin strenuously objected, insisting on keeping the best
accommodation for himself. When we came to take possession of our hut,
we found it barely sufficient for two persons to squeeze into side by
side in a recumbent posture.