PHYSIOLOGICAL EXTERIOR OF THE COCHIN CHINESE.--COSTUME.--MORAL
CHARACTER.--RELIGION.--BRUTALIZING EFFECTS OF A DESPOTIC
GOVERNMENT.--MILITARY SERVITUDE.--POPULATION.--RAINS AND
INUNDATIONS.--COSTUME OF THE RAINY SEASON.--VISIT TO THE
TACOON.--TABLETS AND BOXES ORNAMENTED WITH THE MYA SHELL.--LETTER
AND PRESENTS FOR THE GOVERNOR GENERAL.--THE AGENT DECLINES
ACCEPTING THE PRESENTS FOR THE GOVERNOR GENERAL.--REGULATIONS
RESPECTING TRADE.--EXTENT OF PERMISSION RETRACTED.--A
REPAST.--ROTTEN EGGS AND CHICKENS IN THE SHELL A CHINESE DELICACY,
AND TOKEN OF ROYAL FAVOUR.--THE MANDARIN OF HAN.--LETTER TO
THE GOVERNOR GENERAL REFUSED.--PITIFUL SPIRIT OF THE COCHIN
CHINESE GOVERNMENT.--CHINESE PLAYER.--THE KING OF THE DRAMA
BAMBOOED.--FINAL INTERVIEW WITH THE MANDARIN OF STRANGERS.--RETURN
TO TURON.--BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY.--CANAL.--SALT-WATER LAKE.--GRAND
SCENERY.--ROUTE.--BOTANICAL OBSERVATIONS.--PALANQUINS AND
BEARERS.--GRANITIC COUNTRY.--EXCELLENT ROADS.--RE-EMBARK.
We had by this time seen a large proportion of the people, and our
intercourse with them had brought to light traits of moral character,
which, under a less intimate acquaintance, had lain concealed; while
at the same time we gained a more intimate knowledge of their physical
form. It is extraordinary how little diversity there exists in the
latter, in regard either of stature or of features.
In their physical exterior, they present a compound which accords not
very correctly with any of the tribes whose peculiarities we have
before attempted to describe. In some respects, indeed, the resemblance
is sufficiently obvious; yet in others it is much less so, if not
rather of an opposite character. It appears to me, however, that a
strict analysis of the aggregate in their physical form, will lead to
the conclusion that this nation also has sprung from the Tartar race,
and that it constitutes a variety of that great and widely-disseminated
branch of mankind.
In point of stature, the Cochin Chinese are, perhaps, of all the
various tribes that belong to this race, the most diminutive. We
remark that they want the transverse breadth of face of the Malays;
the cylindrical form of the cranium, as well as the protuberant and
expanded coronoid process of the lower jaw of the Siamese, and the
oblique eyes of the Chinese. In common with all of these, they have
a scanty, grisly, straggling beard; coarse, lank, black hair; small
dark eyes; a yellowish complexion; a squat, square form; and stout
extremities.
I shall here, however, enter more at large into the description of
this variety. It is no very difficult task, at least for an attentive
observer, to seize upon those points in the form of the Cochin Chinese,
which serve to distinguish them both from the neighbouring and other
nations. It is more difficult to convey, in accurate and precise terms,
correct notions of these distinctions to others. The subject of the
filiation of nations, though one of the deepest interest, is still
involved in much obscurity. We see impressed upon the whole of the
human race, through every variety, every modification of climate, under
every condition of barbarous or of civilized life, one general, one
universal form, from which there is, in fact, no deviation. It is true,
that there are tribes so different from others in appearance, that
we almost conclude that they constitute different species of animal
beings. Yet the difference is, perhaps, in all cases, more apparent
than real, more imaginative than natural. When we would inquire into
the origin, the history, the connexions, of a particular tribe, or the
prevalence of a particular form or feature, we are often compelled to
confess that we are at a loss to discover characters in all respects
satisfactory. The interest of the subject will always claim for it the
patient investigation of reflecting men, and will in time, doubtless,
remove many of the difficulties in which it is at present involved.
To return to the subject of the Cochin Chinese. In the consideration
of their external form, the circumstance which chiefly strikes an
European observer is their diminished form. Their squat and broad shape
augments the effect of this characteristic, so that they appear more
diminutive than they actually are. Of twenty-one persons, taken chiefly
from the class of soldiers, the others being citizens, the average
height was five feet, two inches, and three-fourths: of eleven of the
same persons, the average length of the arm amounted to 12.4 inches: of
the fore-arm, 10.15 inches, and the girth of the chest at the broadest
part, to two feet, nine inches. It has been remarked, that the Cochin
Chinese are of a yellowish colour. It is very rare to find amongst them
any that are very black. Many of the females in particular are as fair
as the generality of the inhabitants of the south of Europe.
The globular form of the cranium, and the orbicular shape of the
face are peculiarly characteristic of the Cochin Chinese. The head
projects more backwards than in the Siamese; it is smaller and more
symmetrical, in regard to the body, than in the tribes already noticed,
and the transverse diameters both of the occiput and sinciput are very
nearly equal. The forehead is short and small, the cheeks round, the
lower part of the face broad. The whole countenance is in fact very
nearly round, and this is more particularly striking in women, who are
reckoned beautiful in proportion as they approach this form of face.
The eyes are small, dark, and round. They want the tumid, incumbent
eyelid of the Chinese, and hence they derive a sprightliness of aspect
unknown to the latter. The nose is small, but well formed. The mouth
is remarkably large, the lips are prominent but not thick. The beard
is remarkably scanty, yet they cultivate it with the greatest care.
There are amongst them those who can number scarce one dozen of hairs
upon the chin, or on the whole of the lower jaw. That on the upper
lip is somewhat more abundant. The neck is for the most part short.
Before quitting this part of the subject, I may remark that there is
in the form of the head a degree of beauty, and in the expression of
the countenance a degree of harmony, sprightliness, intelligence, and
good-humour, which we should look for in vain either in the Chinese or
Siamese.
The shape of the body and limbs in the Cochin Chinese, differs but
little from that of the tribes already noticed. The chest is short,
large, and well expanded; the loins broad; the upper extremities are
long, but well formed; the lower are short, and remarkably stout. There
is this remarkable difference from the others of the same race, that
here the tendency to obesity is of rare occurrence. The limbs, though
large, are not swollen with fat. The muscular system is large and well
developed, and the leg in particular is almost always large and well
formed. The Cochin Chinese, though a laughing, are not a fat, people.
The costume of the Cochin Chinese may be described in a few words.
The subject is more deserving of attention, in that it also presents
them to us in a peculiar light different from that under which their
neighbours appear. Though living not only in a mild, but warm climate,
the partiality for dress is universal. There is no one, however mean,
but is clothed at least from the head to the knee, and if their dress
is not always of the smartest, it is owing more to their poverty than
to their want of taste. Nor is it comfort or convenience alone that
they study. They are not above the vanity of valuing themselves on
the smartness of their dress, a failing which often leads them into
extravagance. You will often see a well-dressed man without a single
_quhan_ in his possession.
The principal and most expensive article in their dress is the turban.
That of the men is made of black crape, of the women of blue. On
occasions of mourning, it is made of white crape.
A loose jacket, somewhat resembling a large shirt, but with wide
sleeves, reaching nearly to the knee, and buttoning on the right side,
constitutes the principal covering of the body. Two of these, the under
one of white silk, are generally worn, and they increase the number
according to their circumstances and the state of the weather. Women
wear a dress but little different from this, though lighter, and both
wear a pair of wide pantaloons, of various colours. The dress of the
poorer class is made of coarse cotton, but this is not very common,
coarse silks being more in vogue. Those of China and Tonquin are worn
by the more opulent classes. Shoes also are worn only by the wealthy,
and are of Chinese manufacture, clogs, in fact, rather than shoes.
After this account of the physical exterior of the Cochin Chinese, I
shall add a few words respecting their moral character. Any account
of a matter so intricate, must, on so short an acquaintance, be
necessarily imperfect. The subject, in its different bearings, is
besides so extensive, that I can at most but hint at a few points.
Of these the most important and most remarkable is religion. The
nation may, in fact, be said to be without any religion whatever.
They have neither religious instruction nor instructors, priests, nor
any body of men, whose function is to encourage its cultivation, or
by their conduct to set an example to the great body of the people.
Every man is free to act in this matter as he thinks fit. The better
sort affect to follow the precepts of Confucius. The theism of the
Chinese is as cold-hearted and unaccompanied by feeling, as it is
crude, undefined, and uncertain in its principles. It appears to
have no effect whatever on their conduct, nor do they entertain any
intelligible notions on the subject. It would appear to be fashionable
to profess it; but they neither talk of it, nor have any means of
knowing what fashion perhaps alone induces them to profess.
The human mind, under every condition of life, has formed to itself
certain notions of a future state. The untutored mind, led away by its
fears, soon becomes involved in the intricate mazes of superstition,
in which the mind too often paints undefined, unreal terrors. Such is
the case with the Cochin Chinese, whose religion, if it is ever thought
of, consists in the ceremony of placing on a rude altar some bits of
meat and a few straws covered with the dust of scented wood, or in
scattering to the winds a few scraps of paper covered with gold foil;
or in sticking a piece of writing on a post or door, or to a tree. You
inquire in vain for the motives of such acts. The objects of their
fear are as numerous as they are hideous. One form of superstition
is observed by sea-faring people, another by those who live upon the
coast, and a different form by those inhabiting agricultural districts.
Thus, if not absolutely without religion, the Cochin Chinese can
scarcely be said to derive moral feeling from this source. It may,
perhaps, with truth be observed, that it is better that a people should
have no religion than a false one. The nation in question will furnish
an argument in favour of this opinion. It might be supposed that the
first, the necessary consequence of the want of religion, would be a
total disregard of right and wrong: this, however, is not the case, for
in many respects the Cochin Chinese are superior to their neighbours,
who are devoted to their national religion. If they are destitute
of that aid which is derived from true religion, they are likewise
free from the degrading trammels of a false one. A more direct engine
than that of religion itself, has modified, if not formed, the moral
character of the people; it is that of an avaricious, illiberal, and
despotic government, the effect of which, so sedulously pursued through
a course of ages, it is melancholy and revolting to human nature to
contemplate. It has involved the whole body of the people in perpetual
and insurmountable poverty; it has debased the mind; it has destroyed
every generous feeling; it has crushed in the bud the early aspirations
of genius; it has cast a blasting influence over every attempt at
improvement. Such being the character of the government, it will not
appear surprising that the moral character of the people should in many
respects be brutalized. What is defective in their character has been
occasioned by perpetual slavery and oppression; yet notwithstanding all
this, they display traits of moral feeling, ingenuity, and acuteness,
which, under a liberal government, would seem capable of raising them
to an elevated rank amongst nations. But they are perpetually reminded
of the slavery under which they exist; the bamboo is perpetually at
work, and every petty, paltry officer, every wretch who can claim
precedence over another, is at liberty to inflict lashes on those
under him. But the tameness with which they submit to this degrading
discipline, alike applicable to the people as to the military, is the
most extraordinary circumstance. Their obedience is unlimited, nor do
they, by word or by action, manifest the slightest resistance to the
arbitrary decisions of their tyrants. It will not appear surprising
that this system should render them cunning, timid, deceitful, and
regardless of truth; that it should make them conceited, impudent,
clamorous, assuming, and tyrannical, where they imagine they can be so
with impunity. Their clamorous boldness is easily seen through, and
the least opposition or firmness reduces them to the meanest degree of
submission and fawning.
Such are the more revolting traits in their character: they are in a
great measure counter balanced by a large share of others that are
of a more amiable stamp. They are mild, gentle and inoffensive in
their character, beyond most nations. Though addicted to theft, the
crime of murder is almost unknown amongst them. To strangers, they
are affable, kind, and attentive; and in their conduct they display a
degree of genuine politeness and urbanity quite unknown to the bulk
of the people in other parts of India[25]. They are besides lively
and good-humoured, playful, and obliging. Towards each other, their
conduct is mild and unassuming, but the omission of accustomed forms
or ceremonies, the commission of the slightest fault, imaginary or
real, is followed by immediate punishment. The bamboo is the universal
antidote against all their failings. Like the Chinese, this nation
is addicted to the worship of ancestors, and reveres the memory of
relations. This may, in fact, be considered as the only trait of
religion that exists amongst them. Whatever may have been its origin,
whether, like most institutions of a similar nature, it has degenerated
into a set and formal ceremony that touches not the heart, we ought
perhaps to consider it as of an amiable nature. The political aim of
the institution, the only one of the kind in which the government takes
a part, inculcating it strongly upon the minds of the people, is not be
overlooked. It is that of preventing its subjects from going abroad,
and thereby contributing to retain them in a state of ignorance and
slavery.
The Cochin Chinese are more industrious than we should be apt to
suspect, considering the oppressive nature of the government. Where the
government interferes but little, as in the fisheries on the coast,
their industry is indeed very conspicuous, and there seems every reason
to believe that, were they freed from oppression, they would be equally
so in other branches. They are capable of supporting a large share
of fatigue; and the quantum of daily labour, as for instance in the
operation of rowing, or of running, is in general very considerable.
But the greatest obstacle to the developement of industry proceeds from
the oppressive nature of the military system, by which about two-thirds
of the male population are compelled to serve as soldiers, at a low
and inadequate rate of pay. Of all the grievances they labour under,
it would appear that they consider this the most oppressive. It not
only takes from agriculture and other occupations, the hands necessary
for such labours, but by the idle habits which the military service
generates in the men, it renders them unfit to return to that condition
of life. The consequence of this system may easily be conjectured,
though not perhaps to the full extent. Almost all kinds of labour are
performed by women, whom it is not unusual to see guiding the plough
and sowing the seed. Besides, the labour of women is paid at an equal
rate with that of the men. The daily wages for either is one mas and
their food, or two mas, without it. Another great evil arising out of
the military system of levy, consists in the destruction of family
connexions and ties. From the age of seventeen to twenty, a selection
of the youth is made for military service, from which there is no
retiring until age or infirmity has rendered them incapable of further
service. It is true that, from time to time, they are allowed to
return to their homes on leave of absence; but it is to be feared that
a temporary residence of this nature affords a feeble barrier to the
unsocial tendency of the system.
But in order to form correct notions of the effect of the military
system, we ought to know precisely the proportion taken out of a
certain number of the people. This proportion, however, has been so
differently stated by different persons, that it is extremely difficult
to assume any degree of probability on the subject. It has been stated
that usually two-thirds of the male population from twenty to fifty are
taken. It should be observed that the French gentlemen state that, in
general, one-third of the soldiers are on leave of absence.
The answers to our inquiries respecting the population of the country,
or of any particular town or district, have been attended with the same
degree of uncertainty, and therefore I have for the most part passed
the subject over in silence. It has rarely happened that we have had
an opportunity of conversing with persons sufficiently enlightened to
possess correct notions on this subject; and it seems very doubtful
if any exact data, calculated to provide an accurate estimate of the
amount, are in the possession even of the government. The French
gentlemen, speaking from conjecture, estimated the population of the
kingdom at 10,000,000. French writers have estimated it at three times
that amount. It is agreed by all that Tonquin is more populous than
Cochin China. The gold and silver mines alone of that country give
employment to no less than 10,000 industrious Chinamen, with their
families.
_Oct. 12th._--The Tacoon, or Mandarin of Strangers, sent to say, that
the letter for the Governor General of Bengal, and the papers relating
to commercial affairs were in readiness, and that he wished to deliver
them. A boat was sent for us at an early hour, and we set out for the
Tacoon’s house immediately after breakfast. We were several hours
in reaching the place, on account of the rapidity of the current.
From the 5th instant, with but one or two days of intermission, it
had rained almost constantly, and in such quantity, that the rains we
had experienced near to the line, in Siam and in Bengal, where they
are periodical, seemed insignificant compared with these. The waters
poured down in drenching torrents, frequently for two days and nights
without intermission. They were accompanied with but little lightning.
For the most part a strong wind from the north-east prevailed. The
barometer which, previous to this change in the weather, had scarcely
indicated any perceptible variation, even in its ordinary diurnal tide,
being almost constantly at 29.8, or from that to 29.85, now gradually
fell to 29.635, at which it continued stationary during the rain. The
thermometer at the same time scarcely varied from 77.5°.
The country was speedily deluged with water, and in a short time
the rooms we occupied were scarce an inch above the level of the
inundation, it having already overflowed the other parts of the house.
Our neighbours in the same street were in still worse plight, the water
having already entered their houses. The people were now seen moving
about the streets in boats, where but the day before they had passed
on dry ground. The lower orders make use of a dress well calculated
to defend the body against injury from wet; and in no country perhaps
is such a dress more required. It is made of palm-leaves closely sewed
together, and reminds you, by its appearance, of the Siberian dressed
in shaggy skins. It consists of a hat, in the shape of a basket, that
comes down over the shoulders, and is from two and a-half to three feet
or more in diameter. It is bound under the chin. The body is covered
by a round jacket without sleeves. The hat and jacket are impervious
to water. There were few to be seen abroad at this time who were not
dressed in these useful, but rude habiliments. From these they derive
so much protection, that the rain apparently occasions but little
interruption to their occupations.
When we arrived at the Tacoon’s house we found the two French mandarins
in their boats, and ready to enter with us. The Tacoon was seated
as before, and dressed in plain robes of blue silk. Behind him was
suspended, against the wall, a board on which were written some Chinese
characters; the letters were executed in mother-of-pearl, and from the
manner in which the light was reflected from their surface, appeared
as if they were embossed in the richest style. The workmanship was of
extreme beauty; the chief seeing that it attracted my attention, took
care to inform us that he had caused it to be made in his own house. We
had already seen some very elegant boxes inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
Some of them displayed a correctness of taste, and a degree of beauty
which we had but little expected. They were not to be compared with
what we now saw. These boxes are only to be procured from the chiefs.
The best of them are said to come from Tonquin, and the shell, an
extremely thin, translucent, and elegant species of Mya, is brought
from the mouth of the river of Saigon. If the Japan boxes are more
elegant, these are the most durable. The colours never change, and the
varnish is excellent.
On this occasion there were but few people in attendance at the house
of the Tacoon. He received us as on the former occasion, without
quitting his seat, and we took our places at a table opposite to him,
upon a form covered with carpets, and opposite to four mandarins, who
were seated at the table with us.
It seemed as if the old man were pleased at having brought the affairs
of the mission to a favourable conclusion. He was in high spirits,
talked and laughed much and very heartily, and evidently wished to
impress us with notions favourable to himself and his countrymen. He
commenced the conversation, by observing that whatever might be the
custom in Europe, it was quite contrary to their notions of propriety
to open a letter intended for the king, and that the letter from the
Governor General of Bengal to the king of Cochin China had been opened
at Saigon. It was explained to him that this was done, contrary to the
inclination and to the great inconvenience of the Agent of the Governor
General, by the governor of Saigon, who insisted upon seeing the
original letter. It was added that the governor of Saigon had received
us in a very friendly manner, and that his motive in wishing to see the
letter seemed to arise from some doubts that he probably entertained
respecting the real objects of the mission. No further notice was taken
of the matter.
Some papers were lying before him on the table. He observed that
these were copies of the letter to the Governor General, and of the
commercial regulations; that correct copies should be delivered to the
Agent of the Governor General, but that it was their custom carefully
to seal up and enclose in a box the original letters, which were to be
delivered in that state to the Governor General.
The papers were now delivered to be read. The letter for the Governor
General was not in the name of the King, but from the Tacoon himself;
the general import was as follows: that Mr. Crawfurd had brought a
letter for the king, which, being in the English language, they could
not understand; but that having a Chinese interpreter with him, they
understood through the latter that the object of the letter was to
obtain for the English commercial intercourse with Cochin China; that
Mr. Crawfurd had offered, on the part of the Governor General, 500
muskets and two chandeliers. The English should be permitted to trade
on the same conditions as the Chinese, Portuguese, and French nations.
The King sent as a present to the Governor General, a few catties of
cinnamon of the first quality, some of inferior quality, some agila
wood, two rhinoceros’ horns, elephants’ teeth, and a few peculs of
sugar-candy. The Agent of the Governor General had been presented with
some agila wood, two elephants’ teeth, and the horn of a rhinoceros.
Such was the subject of the letter.
Mr. Crawfurd now expressed his satisfaction at the hospitality and kind
treatment we had experienced since our arrival, as well as with the
manner in which the objects of the mission had been conducted; that
he had no doubt, the more the two nations were acquainted with each
other, the better friends they would become; that he should accept of
the presents which the King had been pleased to offer to him, with all
becoming respect, and consider them as an honourable mark of personal
distinction; that with regard to the presents intended for the Governor
General, the mandarins must well know that things of this sort were by
no means necessary to ensure the friendship of powers so well disposed
towards each other; that he hoped, therefore, the King would not take
it amiss if he declined receiving them; that he would, however, do what
might be considered equivalent, he would go, as proposed at first, to
the hall of ceremonies to view them, and that he would report to the
Governor General that such things had been offered.
It seems as if the mandarins had been prepared to receive an answer of
this nature, and the French gentlemen observed that they had stated it
as their opinion that the presents for the Governor General would not
be received. The mandarin, in a good-humoured way, used every argument
that he could think of to induce Mr. Crawfurd to accept them; but being
assured repeatedly that this could not be done without an express
order to that effect, he desisted, and the matter seemed amicably, if
not satisfactorily, adjusted on both sides. The Tacoon said that the
letters should be delivered on the following day, and that at an early
hour a boat should be sent to convey us to the hall of ceremonies, in
the palace, where the presents would be laid out for inspection. He
had asked, on our entrance, whether we wished to return by sea or by
land; and on its being answered by land, he said that it was not at
present very practicable to go by sea; and that he would give us his
boat to convey us the first stage of our journey, which it would be
more agreeable to accomplish by water, the navigation being inland.
Palanquins and bearers should be provided to convey us the rest of the
way. Satisfied with this arrangement, we fixed our departure for the
morning of the 14th. He observed, that a certain number of bullocks,
hogs, goats, ducks, fowls, rice, and sugar, would be offered for the
use of the ship, and conveyed to Turon.
Mr. Crawfurd answered that he would accept them with pleasure, and
again expressed his satisfaction at the liberality of the commercial
regulations. During the time we remained here, the Mandarin had sent
his assistant to communicate respecting the commercial regulations.
It was agreed that the English should be permitted to trade to all
the ports of Cochin China; and that their ships should be measured
in the manner that the Chinese junks were. The Mandarin now observed
that permission had been granted to trade to the ports of Saigon, Han,
(Bay of Turon,) and Hué. This is, in fact, restricting it to the two
former; the difficulties attending the entrance of the latter, impeded
by a shallow bar at its mouth, and exposed to a wide and open sea,
rendering the permission almost of no avail. He observed that Tonquin
being a lately conquered country, the King had thought proper to
restrict the trade in the manner mentioned.
From the readiness with which leave had in the first instance been
granted to trade to all the ports in the kingdom, and from the surprise
which that communication excited in our very obliging friends, but
very certainly also our political enemies, the French gentlemen, when
the matter was mentioned to them incidentally by Mr. Crawfurd, there
appeared reason to suspect that the restrictions now made were of their
counselling. Mr. Crawfurd expressed his assent to these restrictions.
Whilst the latter part of the conversation was going forward,
preparations were making for a repast. The table was soon covered with
sweetmeats, jellies, roasted ducks and fowls, and a great variety of
fruits, of which we were requested to partake. The Mandarin now laid
aside the distant and formal manner which he had hitherto observed,
and, approaching the table, conversed with much familiarity, laughing
as before very loudly at times. Four or five young children had
collected round him. He observed that these were part of thirty-six
children who were now alive and in his house, and that the entire
number of whom he had been the parent was fifty-four. He said that he
was now sixty-six years of age, that he had served three kings, and
had filled the office he now holds for the last twenty-one years, and
that he expected to have more children born to him. All his children
had been born, he said, since the late king had ascended the throne.
Previous to that period, being engaged in war, flying from place to
place, pursuing or pursued, he had found how unfavourable such a life
is to the increase of families, but that he hoped he had profited by
the quiet which followed.
The mandarins opposite to us seemed to relish the repast. They devoured
rather than ate of it, and, with an avidity and coarseness of manner
which was altogether disgusting. Fat pork and rotten eggs they seemed
to consider as delectable morsels, and were not sparing of their powers
of consumption. It will appear scarcely credible to an European, that
both here and in many parts of China, fresh eggs are looked upon with
indifference, while those that have become to a certain degree putrid
are much esteemed, and that the latter cost in the market thirty per
cent. more than the former. Eggs that contain young ones are still
more highly esteemed, and, amongst the numerous dishes sent to us by
the king, were two plates full of hatched eggs, containing young that
were already fledged. We were assured that this was considered as a
mark of great distinction. Doubting still of the fact, we sent them to
the soldiers appointed as our guard, who gobbled them up in haste with
the most luxurious voracity.
The table was now cleared, and the conversation that followed was of a
general nature; when, to our great astonishment, the little mandarin
of Han, a man who had often visited us both here and on board ship,
without giving us any more favourable notion of his capacity than that
of his being a poor silly creature, with scarcely two ideas in his
head, got up, and, in a loud and sharp voice, exclaimed, that we had
come from the Governor of a province, that we had offered presents to
a great king, who, not receiving them, we were now returning without
the presents he had deigned to offer. Had the little man done that
justice to the bottle, which he did to the fat pork and hatched eggs,
one might have supposed this intemperate remark to have proceeded
from inebriety. It would appear, however, to have been the result of
pure folly, for on this, though not on all the occasions we had seen
him, he was apparently sober. Before he had time to proceed further,
Mr. Crawfurd replied, that he had not called for the opinion of this
mandarin, and would hear no more from him. That the matter having
been fully discussed with the Tacoon, in their presence, it was now
surely at rest. The little mandarin evidently felt this as a keen
rebuke. Mistaking the nature of the part which I had performed in the
transactions of the day, and conceiving himself to be on terms of great
intimacy with Mr. Crawfurd, he thought that such an observation could
only have come from me. So, rising again, with still more animated
energy, he observed, that there was but one name in the Governor
General’s letter, meaning thereby, that but one had a right to speak
there. He said nothing further, and sat down, apparently much offended;
the more so for that I could not help laughing at his mistake. The
Tacoon also laughed very heartily at the occurrence. The observation
however, though seemingly thrown out by accident, made some impression
upon the two mandarins, senior to that of Han; and the Tacoon, seeing
that it was likely to lead to further discussion, terminated the affair
by saying, that he would refer the matter to the king. Thus, by one
unlucky, unnecessary expression of a weak and foolish man, were our
plans entirely frustrated.
The conversation on our part was carried on entirely in the French
language, M. Chaigneaux acting as interpreter between us.
_Oct. 15th._--Two of the assistants to Tuan-kam, (Mandarin of
Elephants,) who had been present at our last interview with him, called
upon Mr. Crawfurd with a sealed copy of the Commercial Regulations.
They said, that the letter for the Governor General could not be
delivered unless the presents were accepted; that those intended for
Mr. Crawfurd and the ship should be delivered at Turon. They asked if
Mr. Crawfurd really wished to have the letter; and that if he would
accept of the presents for the Governor General, it would be made out
without delay. Mr. Crawfurd replied, that he had already delivered his
sentiments on the subject of the presents, and that as to the letter,
it was for the king to decide whether he should receive it or not. They
inquired when we wished to depart, and were told, on the day after
to-morrow. They said that we might visit the Tuan-kam on the following
day, which was agreed to. They now took their leave, apparently
disappointed at the result of the interview. It appeared that they
thought Mr. Crawfurd could not return to Bengal without an answer to
the letter to the king.
_16th._--We visited the Mandarin of Strangers. He had sent a clerk
early in the morning, to say that four men only would be provided
for carrying the baggage of Mr. Crawfurd, myself, a European clerk,
an interpreter, and servant. We had been requested to state the day
before, in writing, the number of persons that would be required for
this purpose, and had mentioned twelve. We were now not a little
surprised to learn that they had reduced this number to four, and
not conceiving that such an order could have been authorized by the
minister, sent the man away.
Since the affair of the presents had been last agitated, a marked
change had taken place in the conduct of those about Court towards
us. They descended to acts of petty meanness which were altogether
contemptible, and much more calculated to excite contempt, derision,
and pity, than any hostile feeling. It was but too evident that the
King was piqued at the refusal of the presents, and we had every reason
to believe that the mean conduct which his ministers now observed was
authorized by him. On this occasion we were landed at some distance
from the minister’s house, purposely, as it would seem, in order that
we might have to walk some way in the sun, and over bad roads. In the
court of the minister’s house there was, as usual, a crowd of idle
people, interspersed with players. The Chinese play would seem to be a
favourite amusement with the old man, for we found always a band of
players in attendance. The performance ceased as we entered the court.
We had here a good proof in what esteem the heroes of the buskin are
held. Not all their gibes and jokes are sufficient to raise them above
the discipline of the bamboo. The Richard of the piece, the Kean of the
party, was at this moment prostrate on the ground, with two men holding
him down, and a stout fellow inflicting blows upon a tender part
with all his might. The scene was inconceivably ridiculous. The gay,
gilded casque of the hero, contrasted with his rueful and lengthened
countenance, so abundantly expressive of the pain he suffered; the
gay flowing robes of flowered satin which formed his dress; his large
Tartar boots, &c., and the serious manner of those who held him in this
state, were altogether irresistibly laughable.
The Tuan Kayn received us on this occasion with even less ceremony than
formerly. He was dressed in a plain flannel or cloth jacket, of a green
colour, and a black turban, without any ornament whatever. Bare and
naked wooden benches were given us to sit on; the carpets, with which
they and two old chairs had formerly been covered, being now removed.
There was no one present but the chief himself, and a number of his
retainers, who had apparently assembled to witness the play.
The conversation was carried on through Mr. Crawfurd’s Chinese
interpreter.
The mandarin observed, that as the presents had not been accepted,
the king had thought proper to countermand the letter to the Governor
General; but that the supplies for the ship’s use should be delivered
at Turon. Mr. Crawfurd mentioned the subject of the people for our
baggage; he observed that this had been done by the express order of
the king himself, and that the order could not be reversed without much
delay. He seemed as if conscious of there being some degree of meanness
attached to this affair, for immediately thereafter he observed that
it was no arrangement of his, and that he had nothing to do with it.
He said that if English vessels came to trade, he would do all in his
power to assist them, and to expedite their business. Mr. Crawfurd
said, that as they were so anxious about the matter of the presents,
he would take them on board, but he could not answer for their being
received by our Government, and that he must protest against receiving
them in the name of the Governor General. He replied, that it was
better that matters should now rest as they were. This interview
lasted about half an hour. The old gentleman wished us a favourable
passage to Bengal, and we bade him adieu. On our way back we called
upon the French mandarins, and took leave of them. They had behaved
towards us, during our stay, with undeviating kindness, politeness, and
attention, and to them we are indebted for many acts of civility. In
whatever light they may have regarded the mission from Bengal, and it
is but natural that they should have considered it as hostile to the
interests of their country, they never allowed political feeling to
influence their conduct with regard to us; and on those occasions in
which they acted as interpreters, they appeared, as far as I am capable
of judging, to have done justice to the opinions of Mr. Crawfurd. If
they have in any way influenced the conduct of the Court, it has not
been in this particular.
On our return home, we engaged men to carry our baggage, and prepared
to depart on the following day. Our business being now over, we had
nothing further to detain us. The whole country was still inundated,
and the rain still fell in great quantity.
_Oct. 17th._--Two boats were in readiness about nine a. m. to take us
the first part of the journey by water; they were in charge of the old
man who had conveyed us from Turon. One of the boats, though a very
long vessel, offered but little accommodation, and was intended for our
baggage. We had been informed by the Tuan Kayn that he would send his
own boat for our accommodation. We were surprised to find it already
occupied by the old skipper. He was told that the boat had been sent
expressly for us, and that he must either leave it, or that we should.
He argued and refused to move into his own boat for some time, but
seeing us get up to go into it, he complied immediately. A third boat,
containing a military guard armed with spears, joined us. We had ever
since our arrival been guarded with the utmost strictness, and the
system had not yet ceased.
We proceeded up the river until we had passed the citadel a short way,
when we entered a fine canal on the left, and pursued its course almost
directly east, for the distance of eight or nine miles. The weather had
cleared up, and we had a fine day. We were much pleased with the great
beauty of the country, and the variety of its scenery. The low hills
opposite to the Fort were here and there cultivated with upland-rice,
and presented a beautiful appearance. The extensive plain on either
side of the canal was overflown; numerous villages were seen to line
its distant boundaries. This canal is said to have been constructed
by the father of the reigning king; it is about twenty yards in
breadth, and almost quite straight. Its banks are inhabited for about
two miles towards the river and occasionally are seen some large and
well constructed houses, surrounded by walls. It is altogether a work
of great labour, and of no less utility, as besides the advantage of
water-conveyance to a very considerable extent, it has enabled the
cultivator to turn into rice-fields extensive plains which formerly lay
waste through the want of irrigation. The soil taken from the canal has
been used chiefly for the manufacture of bricks, of which an immense
number has been used in the construction of magazines, and of the walls
of the fort.
We had travelled about eight miles, when the canal terminated in a
marsh, but its banks were still to be traced by thick tufts of coarse
grass, and numerous species of Sparganium, and of Carex, interspersed
with a few shrubs, as Melastoma and Pandanus. At the distance of four
miles farther, we came to the banks of a salt-water lake, in which the
canal terminates. At this place there resides a petty chief, to whom it
was necessary to shew our passport. A sluice separates the salt from
the fresh water, and prevents the former from entering the rice fields.
We stopped here only for a few minutes, when we passed with impetuosity
through the sluice into the salt-water lake, the water of the canal
being at this time elevated considerably above that of the latter. We
had now before us a vast and beautiful expanse of water, surrounded
by a bold and picturesque country, uniting within itself the sublime
and imposing beauties of alpine and temperate countries, with those
peculiar to the torrid zone. This is more correctly a bay than a lake;
the counterpart, and superior even in extent, as it certainly is in
beauty, to the bay of Turon. In other respects, however, it is not to
be compared with that excellent harbour, for though completely shut in
by the land, and surrounded by mountains that afford shelter against
every wind, the entrance from the sea is narrow, and there is said to
be but two fathoms of water in the deeper parts. For boats it affords
complete protection at all times; and a considerable number were now
passing in various directions. Numerous villages were to be seen at the
foot of the hills, where there is in most parts room for cultivation,
to a small extent, both of rice and of other grains.
In two hours we crossed the lake, and passing through a narrow canal
for the distance of two or three hundred yards, came to a neat and
populous village, surrounded on all sides by hedges of bamboo, so as to
be completely concealed. The soil here is rich, and affords excellent
crops of rice. We were directed to a large and commodious house, built
for the accommodation of travellers. Some of the lower orders of the
people were already at the place, and immediately procured fire, water,
and whatever assistance was required of them, but no person of rank, or
of authority, nor even the mandarin who conducted the boats, came near
us. The people in attendance instantly complied with whatever orders
our interpreters conveyed to them. Three interpreters had accompanied
us from the capital, of whom two spoke Chinese, and one, a native
Christian, Portuguese.
In the hall, or principal room, a number of platforms of various
heights were disposed for sleeping on. We were told not to occupy the
highest, for that the king slept on when he passed this way.
The people of the village soon collected round us in crowds in the room
we occupied. Mere curiosity had brought them to see us, and though they
were noisy, they did not attempt to touch any thing.
The necessary preparations were made by the interpreters to enable us
to depart early next morning. Our palanquins were produced, and bearers
were furnished from the village.
We were surprised to see so few animals in this day’s journey, the
country appearing favourable to the existence of several kinds. A
large species of black Fulica was almost the only bird we observed in
the marshes.
_18th._--We commenced our journey in palanquins, and reached the next
stage in four hours, the distance appearing to be about ten or eleven
miles. From the village to the foot of the hills, there is a distance
of nearly three miles, through a well-cultivated and fertile, as well
as beautiful, country. Though in the vicinity of the sea-shore, we
observed no cocoa-nut trees. Areca nuts, plantains, sweet potatoes,
betel leaf and tobacco, were the produce of the village gardens, as
rice was of the fields that surround them.
We found the palanquins that had been provided for us, well adapted to
the nature of the country, and at the same time both comfortable and
easy. They consist simply of a netting of cotton thread, in shape like
a sailor’s hammock, stretched at both ends by a stick, and suspended
from a slightly-curved pole or bamboo. The top is formed of palm
leaves, neatly laid over each other, and covered on the outside with
a durable, black varnish, which renders it water-proof. The sides are
furnished with water-proof curtains, which are let down or taken up
according to circumstances. The whole is extremely light; the position
in which the body is placed in this vehicle, is more agreeable and less
fatiguing than in the more costly and shewy palanquins of Bengal,
which require two men to carry them when empty, while in this two men
are able to carry the stoutest person, nor are more than this number to
be seen at any time under the pole. The Cochin Chinese, though short,
are remarkably stout and well made. They travel under the palanquin
faster than the Bengal bearers do, and make no stop until they reach
the end of their journey. We were told that two was the usual number of
bearers furnished for a palanquin.
They were furnished to us in greater numbers, for at some stages four
were provided, and at others six; yet there were never more than two
carrying at the same time. It was matter of surprise to us to see
with what facility and quickness they ascended and descended very
steep hills, leaping from stone to stone with the utmost certainty of
footing. Being from ill health unable to leave the palanquin, I was at
first somewhat alarmed at the boldness with which they proceeded, but
soon saw that my fears were groundless. They were always cheerful under
the greatest exertions they had to make, and when on one occasion,
where the road was exceedingly steep, I made an attempt to walk, I had
not proceeded above a few yards when they came round me, and would let
me journey no further in this way. The kind disposition of these poor
people was further exhibited by their attention in plucking flowers and
fruits as we travelled.
The first hill that we ascended appeared to be about 800 feet high and
very steep. From this we descended into an extensive plain, partly
cultivated at the base of the mountains, but the greater part marshy,
with a sandy soil, and overgrown with underwood. We found the village
in which we halted, like the former, neat, clean, and comfortable. The
houses erected for the accommodation of travellers are so much alike,
that I need say no more than has been said of the last.
We changed bearers at this place, and after three hours’ stay
recommenced our journey. We had again a very considerable hill to
ascend, but our bearers made very light work of it. When we had gained
the summit, a magnificent view opened before us. We looked down upon
another of those extensive lakes, or inland bays, which we have already
described. Descending the mountain, we passed along its left bank,
through a sandy soil, till we came to the junction of the lake with
the sea, by means of a narrow and shallow neck. Here, also, there is a
village, but a poor one, the inhabitants of which appear to live almost
entirely by fishing.
It will readily be conceived that the rugged country we were now
passing through affords but little ground capable of cultivation,
and that the population must therefore be necessarily very scanty.
What there is draws its maintenance more from the sea than from the
land, and every bay swarms with boats. The hills present the usual
luxuriance which vegetation assumes in other intertropical countries.
Here, however, it may be added, is exhibited a greater variety in the
products, though the general aspect of the vegetation is much the same.
The country here is throughout granitic, and presents the usual rugged
and bold appearance of all such countries. The roads, considering the
nature of the country, are excellent, and seem to have been constructed
with much labour.
_19th._--We crossed the narrow neck of water at this place, and
commenced the highest and steepest ascent we had yet attempted. The
road lay over masses of granite, and was extremely rugged; yet the
bearers advanced with the greatest facility over ground which might
have appeared impracticable to a less hardy people.
We soon gained sight of the bay of Turon from a great elevation. About
noon we reached the village below, on the shore of the bay; and, after
a hasty breakfast, embarked for the ship in one of the boats of the
natives.
_Oct. 20th._--On our return, we had the happiness to find our friends
and all on board in good health. For notwithstanding the politeness and
good humour of our friends the Cochin Chinese, we had already begun to
wish ourselves once more in the society of our countrymen. The party on
board had, during our absence at the capital, amused themselves chiefly
in making excursions to the various hills that surround the bay.
These excursions procured us fewer zoological additions than we might
reasonably have expected. Great numbers of a large species of Simia,
with a blackish face, red cheeks, arms and thighs, gray upon the body,
and furnished with a long tail, were seen in the woods.
END OF THE JOURNAL.
FOOTNOTE:
[25] In their persons, the Cochin Chinese are far from being a cleanly
people. Many of their customs are, in fact, extremely disgusting. Those
ablutions so much practised by all the Western Asiatics, are here
unknown; and their dress is not once washed from the time it is first
put on, till it is no longer fit for use.
There appears but little ground for an opinion commonly entertained of
this people, that they are dissolute, and that female virtue is held
in little repute. The conduct of both sexes in public is altogether
correct and decorous. The frailties of married women are said to be
looked upon by all ranks with the greatest indignation and abhorrence,
while the punishment awarded by the laws amounts to the greatest, and
even to revolting, severity. With respect to unmarried women, the
greatest liberty is conceded in matters of this sort, nor does even
public opinion oppose the smallest obstacle to the freest indulgence of
their inclinations. The utmost degree of liberty is conceded to them,
and the connexions they form with their male acquaintances, whether
temporary or durable, whatever consequence may follow, is in no manner
prejudicial to the woman’s future prospects, nor is she the less
respected by her future husband. The lesser chiefs make no scruple in
giving their daughters, for a sum of money, to any one who is to reside
for a short time in the country. Indeed, there seems to be little other
ceremony in matrimonial treaties than that of giving.
INDEX.
Agar-agar, 84
Agila wood, or lignum aloës. _See_ Aquillaria agallocha.
Albino quadrupeds frequent in Siam, 262
Alcedo, 21
Alcyonium, 51
Animal food used by the Siamese, 216
Apocyneæ, 273
Aquillaria agallocha, 94, 258
Archipelago of Siam, 42
Areca, 310
Catechu, 25
Argus pheasant, 32
Asteria, 52, 94
Astrology, addiction of Siamese to, 237
Attap, 113
Audience of the king at Bankok, 145, 164
Hall of audience, 142
Balachang, a Siamese condiment, 215
Bambus verticillata, 11
Bankok, arrival at, 114
Of modern date, 209
Floating bazar, 115
Port of, regulations respecting English ships, 208
Few roads in its vicinity, 212
Manufactures, 214
Palaces and temples, 156, 216, 219
Various tribes inhabit, 223
Barkalan, or Pra Klang, 164
Barometer, 4, 82, 388
Bauddhic and Egyptian religion, coincidences between, 221
Prayers, 187
Bay of Cocoa-nuts, 295
Bazars of India and Cochin China, 311
Of Kandyu, 301
Of Saigon, 317. Of Hue, 369, 371
Bingeh city, 312
Birds, 21, 77, 114, 261, 275, 285, 287, 296, 408
Boats, royal of Siam, 181, 107, 116, 134
Procession of, 182
Of Cochin China, 326
Boats Chinese, 116
Boletus, 1
Bombasoi mountain, 257
Borassus flabelliformis, 8, 25
Caudata, 11
Gomutus, 25
Borneo, 81
Brahmans in Siam, 159, 187
Bromelia ananas, or pine-apple, species of, 30
Buceros, 21
Buddha, names of, 252
Commands of, 253
Of Siam and Ceylon contrasted 110, 111
Images of, 218, 220
Buggis, improve in naval architecture, 69
Calampac, or Colambac, 260
Calamus, 1, 30
Calendar of the Siamese, 249, 250, 251
Canal in Cochin China, beautiful scenery on, 404
Cape St. James, singularity of ebb tide near, 294
Cargariau, Captain, French envoy, 371
Carimon, the little, 42
Casuarina equisetifolia, 99
Catechu or Gambir, 56
Cerealia, 27
Ceremonies at the public audience, negotiations respecting, 130
Mode adopted, 133
Certhia, 21
Chantibond, a valuable province of Siam, 255
Its products, 256
Population, 257
Amount of pepper produced, 257
Cardamoms, 257
Chatt, a Siamese ornament, 144
Chau Pha, the prince, put to death by his uncle, 246
Chinese have not the usual Asiatic air, 13
Valuable settlers, 14, 115
Soon acquire wealth under British government, 14
Their houses, 62, 115
Compared with those of the Malabar settlers, 16
Addicted to gross feeding, 17, 63, 215
Their activity, 61
Its motive, 65
Traits of character, 64
Mental capacity, 66
Comparative numbers, 67, 212
Their emigration temporary, 67
Insolence towards Europeans, 95
Privileges of in Siam, 166, 168, 245
Instance of the hospitality of, 315
Chinese junks, 68
Have no charts, 69
Chinese symbolic characters a means of communication among tribes
using different languages, 94
Cholera morbus, a case of in Siam, 197
Christians native, 257
Chuliahs, or Malabar Moslems, 13
Chroma Chit engrosses the administration of affairs, 128
Interviews with, 127, 194
Is desirous of introducing vaccination, 197
Not the heir to the throne, but obtains it, 200
Clove tree, 29
Cochin China, Agricultural products, 310
Manufactures, 311
Paucity of Inhabitants seen, 350
Beauty of its scenery, 408, 411
Cochin Chinese, politics of, 179
Respecting foreigners, 320
Physiological appearance and national affinity, 298, 305
Character and manners, 299
Houses, 300
Very attentive to dress, 301
Boats, 302
Troops, artillery, &c., 343, 365
Fort, 340
Are remarkably small, 305
Females, 309
Singular moral discriminations respecting females, 310, 384
Promiscuous feeders, 310
Poverty of the country, 312
Contemptible spirit of the Cochin Chinese Court, 400
Regulations affecting British commerce, 394
Cochin Chinese ambassador received with honours at
Bankok, 177, 182, 185
Cocoa nut, 24
Coffee tree, 29
Columba, 21, 285
Commerce of Siam a royal monopoly, 166
European valuable to the Siamese, 169
Concessions of Cochin China in favour of, 370
Regulations respecting, 394
Contortæ, 26
Convolvulus pes capræ, 11
Species 17
Corals, 51
Costume of Siam, 109
Of Cochin China, 296, 300, 378
Military, 302
Of the rainy season, 389
Cow and Calf Island, 2
Crinum, 35
Cycas revoluta, 80
Circinalis, 25
Dagoba, or Bauddhic monumental fane, comparison of, with Pyramids, 221
Form of, 156
Despotic government of the Siamese, 127
Baleful effects of, 265, 381
Dead, treatment of in Siam, 231
A singular custom, 232
Siamese mode of embalming, 233
Diard, Mr., 307
His discoveries in natural history, 308, 313
Dioscorea, or Yam, 87
Luxuriancy of its habit, 270
Dugong, or Halicora, 52
Duties, a reduction promised, 205
Eggs rotten, a Chinese delicacy, 396
Elate silvestris, 11
Elephant, albino, 151, 261
A spotted, 153
Exhibition of elephants, 323
Emblems religious, perpetual recurrence of, 305
English factory, ruins of an old, 290
Epidendrum, a gigantic species, 35
Species, 26
Equatorial regions, salubrity of, 47
Erythrina indica, 28
Etiquette of the court of Siam respecting shoes, 150
Of Cochin China respecting letters, 319
A pretext, 391
Euphorbia, 11
European manufactures scarcely to be met with in Cochin China, 311
Felis, 20
Factions or parties in the ministry of Siam, 203
Females the labourers in Siam, 314
Fern, 26
Fever, intermittent, unknown at Singapore, 60
Fish abundant, 269
Flying, Siamese notions respecting the art of, 238
French influence in Cochin China, 367, 395
Mandarins, 353, 403
Funeral pile, 111
Obsequies of the Siamese, 235
Fucus, a remarkable species of, 55
Fu kok, or Pau kok Island, 92, 97
Inhabitants, 98
Plants, 98, 99
Isles in its vicinity, 100
Furs procurable at Bankok for the China market, 215
Galeopithecus variegatus, 19
Gambir, or Terra Japonica, 56
Geology, 6, 36, 37, 42, 44, 79, 89, 275, 289, 295
George Town, Penang, 15
Population, 15
Houses, 15
Gold mines of Chantibond, 256
Of Tonquin, 387
Governor-general’s letter, 118
Gramineæ, singular paucity of, 288
Guns, enormous, 160
Grapes, 294
Hair, festival of cutting the lock of, 160, 186
Halicora Dugong, 52
Haya, a new genus of plants, 98
Hot winds of India, the effects of, 48
Hué, fort of, 351
Canal of, 348
River of, the most beautiful in Asia, 349
Indian, a race resembling the Indians met with in the
Peninsula of Malacca, 226
Inn, or stage-house, in Cochin China, 407
Intertropical winter, 21
Its effect on plants, 22
Islands, groups of, 89, 91
Jasminum, 11
Justicia, 11
Kabouc, 37
Kandyu and its governor, 297
King of Siam is importunate for the presents sent by the
Governor-general, 122, 123
His name, 166
Funeral obsequies, 240
Idol formed from his ashes, 241
Khon chook, ceremony of, 185
Kochai Sahac, Malay interpreter, 122
His character too late detected, 202
Lacerta, 275
Lake or bay, 405
Languages, comparison of the inland, or aboriginal, recommended, 226
Laurus, 1
Laws of Siam respecting adultery, 242
Theft and debt, 243
Leather dye, 214
Leopard, black, 32
Letter to Governor-general of British India, notice respecting, 206
From Governor-general to King of Cochin China, 313
To Governor-general from Cochin China, 392, 399, 402
Leyden, Dr., valuable comparison of languages by, 226
Life savage and refined contrasted by exemplars, 270
Luong Pra, the Barma monarch, 244
Macassar soldiers murder an English garrison, 290
Madrepore, 51
Malacca contrasted with Penang, 39
Nearly deserted, 39
Its fruit and fish, 39
Vicinity, 38
Malay, or Mopla, interpreter.
See Kochai Sahac.
Malay Peninsula, western coast has numerous islands, 4
Mountain ridges, 5
Malays, 71
Physiological aspect, 227
Fishermen, or orang laut, 73
Mammalia, 261, 274, 285
Mandarins, their retinues numerous, 314
An official visit from, 306
Mandarin of Han, 397
Mangroves, 58
Utility of, 60
Manufactures of Europe scarce at Saigon, 311
Melastoma, 11
Menam river, 102
Plains on the banks, 113
Depth, 114
At Bankok, 116
Mines of precious stones, 256
Mission British arrives in Siam, 101
Bad auguries from verbal communications, 104
Visited only by people of low rank, 104, 201
Visit the chief of Packnam, 105
Restrictions on, 124
Procession of, to the palace, 137
Treated with disrespect by the crowd, 161
Inhospitality towards, 163
Received as a deputation from a province, 165
Lodged in an outhouse belonging to the minister, 119
Reflections thereon, 120
Its affairs consigned by the court of Siam to low intriguers, 201
Its reception contrasted with that of an embassy from
Cochin China, 180, &c.
Arrives in Cochin China, 295
Visited by the chief of Kandyu, 297
Arrive at Saigon, 303
Conferences with Mandarins, 306, 313
Audience of the Governor, 317
Arrive in the bay of Turon, 328
Limited number allowed to visit Hué, 335
Strictly watched by armed men, 343, 404
Arrive at Hué, 351
Conference with the mandarin of elephants, 353
With the mandarin of strangers, 389, 399
Molluscæ, 51
Monastery, a Siamese, 110
Mongol race, physiology of, 227
Monkies, white, 154
Monopoly. _See_ Commerce.
Morals and Religion, 379
Morinda citrifolia, 28
Motacilla, 11
Mount Palmer, 33
Mountains, isolated pyramidal, 281
Musa paradisiaca, 30
Mussænda frondosa, 26
Music, royal band, 142
Cultivated in Siam, 188
Of Pegu, reported excellence of, 189
Mya shell tablet, 389
Mythology, Hindu, in Siam, 217
Narcondam Island, 3
Natunas Islands, 81
Navigation of the Chinese, 70
Necromancers of Siam, 239
Negrais Cape, 2
Neptunian goblet, 51
Nipa fruticans, 25, 30
Numerals, Siamese, 249
Nutmeg-trees, 28
Orang laut, or men of the sea, 74, 225
Their physiological appearance, 75
Packnam, meaning of the term, 266
Painting, art of, in Siam, 218
Palace at Bankok, 137, 138, 141
Palanquin, a Siamese, 137
Cochin Chin se and bearers, 408
Palm-tree, proof of an intertropical climate, 8
Varieties, 8, 11, 17, 23, 24, 35, 88, 285
Geographical distribution, 24
Pandanus, 8, 88
Fibre used for cordage, 29
Papra Straits, 10
Botanical observations, 11
Passer, 2, 21
Patella, 8
Peat, 31
Pelican, 21
Penang Shipping, 12
Population, 13, 15
Botany, 17
Luxuriant vegetation, reflections, 18
Highest altitude, 23
Agricultural products, 27
Pepper, 28
Quantity capable of being furnished by Siam, 132
Physiognomy of Ultra Gangetic nations, 229
Physical exterior of the Cochin Chinese, 374
Cranium, 376
Physiological comparison of the Siamese, &c., 224
Of the Malays, &c., 225
Phœnix brig, 170
Pia tac, or Pe ye tac, the Chinese King of Siam, 209
Founds Bankok, 210
History of, 244
Pigeon, 88
Plantain wild, 86
Its seeds described, 87
Supposed to be the original species, 87
Plants, 8, 11, 24, 26, 54, 55, 80, 86, 98, 113, 270, 285, 288,
289, 290, 296, 330, 333, 349, 405
Physiology of, 22, 50, 91
A new and very singular genus producing enormous tubers, 271
Players, 401
Pneumonia, the author attacked by, 208
Policy of Siam, 175
Reflections of the author upon, as regards British interests, 176
Population, 387
Portuguese interpreter, 103
Porpoise albino, 262, 275
Prachadi, 210, 221
Pra Klang, 164
Preparis Island, 2
Presents to the court of Siam, 165
Misrepresentation of the term suspected, 165
Of the Governor-general refused by the court of Cochin China, 369
The king of Cochin China’s presents to Governor-general
refused, 393, 402
Pteromys petaurista, or flying squirrel, 54
Pteropus edulis, 9
Pyramid, a sepulchral shrine, 221
Pya-pee-pat of Bankok, corresponds with the governor-general, 206
Pulo Condore, 287
Pulo Dinding, 35
Pulo Panjang, 282
Pulo Ubi, 82
Qualla Muda, 30
Queda shore, 30
Interior unexplored, 32
Rains, vehement profluency of, 388
Ramayana, 159
Ran-nan, a musical instrument, 191
Ray, singular species of, 98
Religion of the Siamese, 251
None better than a false one, 381
Reptilia, 261
Revenue of Siam, 247
Rhizophora, 59, 304
Richardson, Capt. 78
Disturbance with the Chinese, forbids the demands of
the Chinese, and demands an apology, 79
Roberts, Mr., Envoy to Cochin China, 359
Saigon, 312
River and town, 304, 315
Interview with the governor of, 318
Salam, mode of making, in India, 134
Samrayot mountains, 281
Sampan, 73
Scævola lobelia, 11
Scene of wonder and regret, 143
Scitamineæ, 23, 24
Sciurus, 20
Sea, luminous appearance of, by night, 33
Sea fowl, paucity of, 77
Sechang, or Dutch Islands, 267
Inhabited by an act of compulsion, 268
Commodious bay, adapted for the formation of a depôt, 280
Sema, the image, 235
Sentry sticks used by Cochin Chinese, 345
Servility of the Siamese etiquette, 126
Seyer Islands, 5
Remarkable silence and absence of birds, insects, &c. 6
Siam, policy of, 164
Modern history of, 244
State of defence, 247
Bay, west coast, 280
Siamese houses, 108, 113, 117
Description of, 108
Court, inhospitality of, 124
Conduct of, to the mission, 125
Inferior to the inhabitants of Ceylon, 157
National family of, 224
A humane people, 243
General character of, 265
Those of rank arrogant and coarse in their manners, 265
Silks, the chief material of clothing in Cochin China, 311
Simia, 412
Singapore, 45
Commanding situation of, as an emporium, 46
Perpetual tranquillity of the air and ocean, 46
No monsoon, or rainy season, but frequent showers, 47
Tides near, 47
Capacity of the soil not fully ascertained, 57
Situation, 75
Intermittent fever unknown, 60
Slaves at Malacca, 41
Soldiers, Siamese, of the body guard, and their equipments, 40
Squirrel, white species of, 274
Sterna, 2
Storm, Mr., 170
Sugar, 132, 167
Amount in tons, 168
Suri Wong Montree, the Praklang, or Barcalan, 132, 200
Anecdote of, 237
Surya vangsa, or race of the sun, 129
Syngenesiæ, 11
Swallow, a species of, 282
Tanjung api, 81
Taste of the Siamese grotesque, 157
Taxes of Siam, 247
Teak, black, considered ornamental, 108
Temperature of the sea, 4
Effects of, on vegetation, 49
On animal life, 50
Thermometer, 22, 77, 82
Tical, 187
Tides, 99
Tiger, 31
Common in Siam, 263
Their bones and skins an article of commerce, 263
Black, 263
Combat with elephants, 321
Trade, British with Siam, regulations of, 170
Treaty drawn up, 204
Trepang, 94
Tuan Kayn, 401
Tuberous plant, discovery of probably the largest species, 272
Tuk-kay, a musical instrument, 190
Two Brother’s Islands, 287
Vaccination, 197
Vegetable Phenomenon, 43
Vespertilio, 20
Vine, 285
Votive offerings, 85
Vulture, 21
Ultra Gangetic nations, their policy, and arrogance, 172
Imbecility, 173
Hints how to negotiate with, 203
Tendency to obesity remarkable among, 228
Urtica, 29
Wāāt-thay-cham-ponn, 219
Water affected by the soil, 31, 35
Woolly-headed race in the peninsula of Malacca, 226
Worship of imps and goblins common in Siam, 239
Of ancestors practised by the Cochin Chinese, 384
Yellow fever, actual causes doubtful if known, 60
Yuthia captured by the Barmans, 244
British not allowed to visit, 209
Zoological subjects observed, 11, 20, 21, 261, 274, 289, 412
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES,
Northumberland Court.
Transcriber's Note
A duplicate heading "INDEX" has been removed from the text.
The following apparent printing errors have been corrected:
p. xxix "Governor of Saigon," changed to "Governor of Saigon."
p. 3 "xeistence" changed to "existence"
p. 33 "LITTLECARIMON." changed to "LITTLE CARIMON."
p. 35 "4. " changed to "4.--"
p. 41 "hardship" changed to "hardship."
p. 94 "agallocha,Roxb. (Aloxylum agallochium,Lour.)" changed to
"agallocha, Roxb. (Aloxylum agallochium, Lour.)"
p. 107 "accommotion" changed to "accommodation"
p. 177 "was was brought" changed to "was brought"
p. 185 "disnified" changed to "dignified"
p. 192 "occcured" changed to "occurred"
p. 194 "kill. Palaces" changed to "kill.--Palaces"
p. 224 "Theft. History." changed to "Theft.--History."
p. 249 "Roy" changed to "Roy."
p. 250 "sookh" changed to "sookh."
p. 292 "were mained" changed to "we remained"
p. 391 "Governer General" changed to "Governor General"
p. 402 "through Mr" changed to "through Mr."
p. 404 "father o" changed to "father of"
p. 415 "audidience" changed to "audience"
p. 417 "hinese symbolic" changed to "Chinese symbolic"
p. 422 "Musænda" changed to "Mussænda"
p. 424 "Rains vehement" changed to "Rains, vehement"
p. 425 "Ranran" changed to "Ran-nan"
p. 425 "Scœvola" changed to "Scævola"
p. 427 "Tuan kayn" changed to "Tuan Kayn"
p. 427 "Tukkay" changed to "Tuk-kay"
p. 427 "Wāāt thay champonn" changed to "Wāāt-thay-cham-ponn"
Punctuation in the index has been regularised.
The following printed erratum has been incorporated into the text:
ERRATUM.
p. 48, l. 18, _for_ those, _read_ that.
The following possible errors have been left as printed:
p. 43 net work
p. 72 (note) _Raffles, in Asiatic Researches_
p. 249 Sāām-sēēp.
p. 249 Hoc-seep.
p. 249 star ang-khan.
p. 250 Duan-hāa.
p. 365 recal
Index entries for U and V were printed in reverse order.
There are many inconsistencies in the text, including:
&c. and _&c._
23d and 23rd
3d and 3rd
a. m., a.m. and A.M.
alongside and along-side
background and back-ground
Bombasoi and Bomba-soi
calendar and kalendar
Chinaman and China-man
claystone and clay-stone
Cochin China and Cochin-China
cocoa nut and cocoa-nut
everywhere and every where
eyebrows and eye-brows
Governor General and Governor-General
hind feet and hind-feet
Hue, Hue’ and Hué
japonica and Japonica
Kandyu and Kan-dyu
Kochai-Sahac and Khochai-Sahac
M’Donnell and M’Donnel
musquitoes and mosquitoes
outhouse and out-house
p. m., p.m. P. M. and P.M.
Praklang, Pra-klang and Pra-Klang
Prachadi and Pra-cha-di
praws, praus and Praus
repassing and re-passing
Samrayot, Sam-rayot and Sam-ra-yot
sandstone and sand-stone
semibarbarous and semi-barbarous
semicircular and semi-circular
Suriwong, Suri-wong, Suree-wong, Suri-Wong and Suri Wong
sweetmeats and sweet-meats
ultra-Gangetic and Ultra-Gangetic
viranda and verandah
Wāāt-thay-cham-ponn
In addition, upper and lower case and small capitals are used for
compass directions. The table of Siamese years on p. 251 uses
apostrophes inconsistently.