DEPART FROM SIAM.--SECHANG, OR DUTCH
ISLANDS.--INHABITANTS.--ENORMOUS YAM.--BAY OF SIAM.--GEOLOGICAL
REMARKS.--PULO PANJANG.--TWO BROTHERS ISLANDS.--PULO
CONDORE.--GEOLOGY.--INHABITANTS.--HOSPITABLE CHARACTER.--CAPE
ST. JAMES CURRENT.--BAY OF COCOA NUTS.--GEOLOGY, &C.--VUNG
TAO.--COSTUME.--GOVERNOR OF KAN-DYN, A SINGULAR CHARACTER,
TAKES CHARGE OF AN OFFICIAL COMMUNICATION TO THE GOVERNOR OF
SAIGON.--INHABITANTS VERY POLITE.--DRESS ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY IN
SILK.--PHYSIOGNOMY AND FORM.--HABITATIONS.--COSTUME.--SHOPS.--ROYAL
BOATS.
Our residence at Bankok was not of a nature to excite regret on leaving
it. The mean, suspicious, and weak conduct of the Government, selfish
in all its measures, regardless of the welfare of its subjects, was
more calculated to excite feelings of contempt than of respect. The
restrictions under which they had placed the members of the mission
were certainly unnecessary, and are an additional proof of the
weakness, as well as of the ignorance of the Government. All attempts
to visit the interior of the country were unavailing. It has already
been stated that the Government of Siam is altogether despotic, and
circumstances have been related which will throw some light upon the
state of manners under this condition of government. I may here briefly
remark, before taking final leave of the Siamese, that the manners
of the highest ranks are far from engaging. We should here look in
vain for that courtly ease, and that polished exterior, so common to
almost all Asiatics of high rank. An offensive coarseness, a manifest
disregard to the feelings of others, and arrogance unbounded, have
usurped its place.
Bad government has not been able to produce effects so baneful on the
manners of the lower orders of the people. If we except low cunning
and falsehood, twin crimes, bred under the wing of despotism, we
shall find, in the manners of the latter, more that is deserving
of praise than of blame. They are kind and charitable towards each
other, peaceable and quiet subjects, and remarkable for fidelity and
honesty in their transactions. Towards strangers they are affable,
and extremely kind, polite, and attentive: they at once inspire them
with confidence; they are communicative and obliging. They have, on
all occasions, appeared to us the more amiable part of the people, and
with a very few exceptions, they were the only class that either shewed
us attention, or from whom we could gain any information. From this
class I do not separate the priesthood, in general very attentive to
strangers.
On our leaving the capital, the Court did not confer the least mark of
attention on the mission, not even so far as to learn the period of our
departure. Presents for the Governor General, consisting of Elephants’
Teeth, Agila Wood, Benzoin, Cardamoms, Pepper, Sugar, and Tin, had
been previously delivered. The Chief, Suri-Wong, asked Mr. Crawfurd to
visit him on the day of our embarkation, and on the following night,
Chroma-chit made a similar request.
Our departure from Bankok had taken place earlier than we had
contemplated, for it had been long maintained by Captain M’Donnel,
that the ship could not get over the bar of the river before the
month of September. A difference of opinion had now occurred amongst
the navigators, and it was determined that the trial should be made,
after lightening the ship as much as was consistent with safety. The
resolution was gratifying to all of us.
We embarked in the evening of the 14th of July, and on the
16th we began to drop slowly down the river. On the 18th, we
passed[22]Packnam, and on the 24th, we crossed the bar. The S. W.
monsoon blows right in upon the river, and there is consequently great
labour and difficulty in warping a ship over a mud-bank upwards of ten
miles in extent.
On the 2d of August we moved over to some islands in front of the
river, called Sechang, or Dutch Islands, for the purpose of completing
our quantity of water, taking in ballast, and fitting the ship for sea,
the rigging having been all taken down while she lay at Bankok.
On the 4th of August, we anchored in a fine deep bay, formed by the
islands just mentioned.
We availed ourselves of the necessary delay of the vessel at this
place, to make daily excursions to the surrounding islands.
The name Sechang is properly applicable only to the principal island
of the group; the next in point of size, about a mile distant to the
W., is called Ko-kan. The other islands are of trifling extent; some of
them, like the large ones, are covered with rather stunted wood, and
others are merely bare rocks, appearing above water. The two larger
islands bear marks of a considerable extent of former cultivation, and
on both, a few miserable looking inhabitants are still to be found.
The quantity of level ground is too scanty to maintain a population of
any extent, and the few persons we found here, had been compelled by
the King of Siam to live on the spot. It is difficult to conceive any
other motive for this species of banishment, than political ambition;
for such islands must be totally unproductive to the government. It
should at the same time be acknowledged, that nothing is expended in
their occupation. Though by their own account compelled to adopt this
residence, the few people whom we found here, in appearance, at least,
abundantly miserable, seemed to attach no particular hardship to their
lot.
Upon a small sandy beach, at the northern extremity of Ko-kan, are
twelve small huts, with two apartments in each, constructed of
palm-leaves, which the occupiers must have carried with them from the
inhabited parts of the continent. Of these huts, some were now empty,
but a part of the population, consisting of two or three old women, as
many old men, and a considerable number of sickly children, came out to
meet us on our landing. Premature old age had seized upon those that
had grown up, whether from the scantiness of their food, its inferior
quality, or uncertain supply, or from cares inseparable from this rude
condition of society, is perhaps doubtful. Their shrivelled limbs,
their wrinkled and contracted features, their half-famished forms,
their scanty dress, bespoke a people supremely wretched; yet their
wants were but few, nor did they importune us for the gratification
of them. The men that were present were reserved, if not sullen, and
viewed us with little interest, or perhaps with suspicion. The women,
on the contrary, were evidently pleased at our approach, and gave
every demonstration that our visit was welcome to them. Here, where we
might have expected selfishness in the most exclusive degree, we were
delighted to witness nothing but the most disinterested kindness. A
plantain, a yam, and a few pepper-corns, reared by their own hands,
were, in their eyes, commodities of the highest value,--yet these,
though they had but a scanty supply of them, were instantly produced,
and we were eagerly solicited to take them with us. They neither asked
for, nor expected any thing in return, and they seemed surprised, as
well as delighted, when on a subsequent visit Mr. Crawfurd made them
presents of cloth.
Fish forms the principal article of their food, and the surrounding
seas afford an abundant supply; but such is the poverty, or want of
energy or ingenuity in these poor creatures, that they are often very
ill-supplied from this quarter.
These poor people had laid at our feet all that was valuable in their
eyes. They gained confidence during our visit, and all of them became
more familiar. Mrs. Crawfurd had accompanied us to the village, and
her presence conferred a degree of interest upon the scene not easy
to be described. The men, stupid with wonder, seemed to look upon her
as a being of another creation; and indeed, if we cast our eyes upon
the contrast in the female forms now before us, their wonder will not
appear surprising, and these rude and wretched savages might well doubt
that they had but little connexion with our race. Never, perhaps, was
savage life more strikingly contrasted with refined; an accomplished
female, brought up in all the elegance and refinement of the first
metropolis in the world, stood opposed to the rude, scarce human forms
of the savage islanders of the Gulf of Siam!
With more confidence, but with no less surprise and wonder, the women
and children seemed anxious to approach a form which was eminently
pleasing to them, but were withheld by a sort of awe. Such a scene were
worthy of the painter’s skill.
We now ascended a neighbouring hill, on which were cultivated the
Dioscorea alata, Convolvulus Batatus, Zea Mays, and Capsicum. The
energy of vegetation in the Dioscorea seemed to have been too great
for the moderate share of industry exerted by the natives in their
rude agriculture. This luxuriant plant had spread over all the cleared
ground, choking every plant near it, and obstructing even its own
growth by the over-abundant production of stem. We have observed this
tendency in the same plant, on the opposite island. Yet it is not to be
found in the forest, nor of indigenous growth. I have never seen it but
in spots that have once been cultivated, nor have I observed solitary
plants of it. Other species of this genus are common in the forest, and
are in general solitary.
It is deserving of remark in this place, that we found on the various
islands which form this bay, and particularly upon the lesser ones, a
considerable number of plants, whose economy bears a striking analogy
to that of Dioscorea; like that useful plant, too, they belong to the
natural order Asparagi, of Jussieu. They are all creeping plants,
elegant in their form, producing abundance of fine foliage, ascending
to the tops of the tallest trees, often covering them, as it were, with
a mantle. The most extraordinary of these is a plant bearing affinity
both to Dioscorea and to Menispermum, but differing from both in some
essential generic characters. The great beauty of the creeping stem,
suspended in elegant festoons from the branches of the surrounding
trees, were sufficient to attract attention. But the most singular
property of this herbaceous plant is the disposition which it has of
forming tuberous roots of a most extraordinary size, a circumstance
the more singular, because, independent of the small size of its stem,
scarcely larger than a quill, it is found growing in the most arid and
steril situations, without a particle of earth to conceal its roots;
neither are its leaves succulent, nor its stem nor root of a texture
apparently fitted to convey a large proportion of vegetable juice, both
being rather hard and fibrous. The singular tuberosity of this plant
is formed at the exit of the root from the rock or surrounding stones,
and is, in general, buried about one-fourth under the surface. The part
exposed is globular, of a dirty-white colour, warty, and internally
the yam is tough and fibrous rather than spongy. One brought on board,
on account of its size, weighed 474 lb., and measured 9-1/2 feet in
circumference; others, of still greater size, were not uncommon. It
will be conceived, that such vast masses of vegetable matter are
but little adapted to become the food of man; it is, however, not
altogether neglected for that use, though but rarely had recourse to.
For this purpose, the farinaceous matter is separated from the juice,
vegetable fibre, and other products, by drying, maceration, _&c._ The
root is also used in medicine.
Of all the tuberous roots this would appear to be by far the largest
and most extraordinary. In other plants of the kind, the tuberosities
are proportionate to the size of the plants, and their visible means
of nourishment. In this, the yam is of the most gigantic size, and
its stem extremely small. The means of nourishment are by no means
apparent. Earth and water, the ordinary sources of vegetable nutriment,
are almost altogether wanting; the stem is not of a structure to
require any thing but simple support from the surrounding trees. There
remains no visible source but the atmosphere, to which its numerous
leaves are amply exposed, through the aid of the surrounding trees.
To the botanist these islands afford a most interesting field; and,
notwithstanding the numerous visits which we have made to them,
much still remains to be done. We never returned from them without
considerable numbers of plants that were new to us, amongst which there
are some undescribed in our systematic catalogues.
The islands abound in plants of that beautiful natural order Apocyneæ;
we found several most elegant species of Hoya amongst them. The plants
of the order Euphorbiæ are still more numerous. Ficus, several tall
species.
Of the Caprifolia there is a considerable number; but it is remarkable
that Rhizophora is not amongst them, neither are there any plants of
similar habits. The absence of alluvial soil upon the sea-coast is
probably the cause.
We were somewhat surprised to find that there were no palms. We had
found them on similar islands not far distant.
The Aroideæ are numerous; several of the plants very handsome,
exceeding the usual size of plants of that genus.
The arborescent form of vegetation prevails, but attains no
considerable height.
On the larger islands the tamarind-tree occurs frequently, and in
situations which might lead us to conclude it to be of indigenous
origin. For the most part, however, it is found in places that were
formerly cultivated, where they have in all probability been planted.
The tree is of inconsiderable size, and produces but little fruit.
For a further account of the rich vegetable products of these islands,
I must refer to the botanical catalogue.
The zoology of these islands is scarce less interesting, though more
limited, than its vegetation. Of the class Mammalia, the number of
species is extremely scanty. A species of rat, and a white squirrel,
were the only members of this class that occurred to us. The latter is
rare, about eight inches in length; an active, lively, and handsome
animal.
A species of white porpoise is common in the seas about these islands.
It is of a clear white colour, with a very slight tinge of pink. I
estimated its length to be about eight or nine feet.
Of birds we procured a fine species of black Pelican, a blue-coloured
Heron, several specimens of Columba litoralis, and a variety of the
same bird of a bluish cast; another handsome species of Columba, of an
iron-brown colour, a green-coloured species of the same bird; a species
of Falco of a white colour, and a few others, together with some
curious fish, of which, as well as of the former, figures have been
taken. Amongst the more curious objects, will be found a very beautiful
species of Lacerta, and several large species of Cancer, found by the
people at the watering-place. Descriptions of these will be found in
the catalogues.
In the examination of the rocky shores and bare cliffs of Sechang, the
geological student will find an ample field for speculation. We have
visited few islands whose structure has interested us more.
For an account of the mineral masses, see the Catalogue, and the
accompanying specimens. I shall here attempt, what these, in their
insulated state, are not well calculated to convey, some information
respecting their relative position, &c.
At various distant points on several of the islands, are to be seen,
chiefly at the time of low water, extensive masses of a coarse-grained
granite, abounding in plates of gray and black mica, and possessing
a considerable degree of slaty structure, the mica being disposed
chiefly in parallel laminæ. There is reason to suppose that this rock
constitutes the base of the islands, as well as of the bay formed
by them. On its horizontal surface, it terminates abruptly, without
ascending into elevated or peaked masses, having a rough, horizontal
surface, rarely rising above high-water mark. It is not to be seen
at any distance from the sea-shore, being there concealed by the
superincumbent rocks.
On this horizontal surface of the granite are placed two principal
superincumbent rocks, quartz-rock, and granular limestone. These seem
to rest alike upon the granite of their base, their relative position
being lateral with regard to each other. They are much intermixed, and
often alternate with each other. The quartz-rock rises into the highest
peaks; the limestone often laps over it, so as to appear to have it for
its base.
The quartz-rock varies in appearance. The grey and the white are the
principal varieties; in both there is a considerable proportion of
calcareous matter, and they effervesce briskly. Some parts are compact,
with a fracture nearly conchoidal; such are often traversed by small
seams of pure white quartz. Other parts are distinctly slaty, and here
the strata are displaced, contorted, and curved; such parts are soft;
penetrated by caves of considerable extent.
Masses of pure quartz abound in some parts of this rock.
The granular limestone is also of various appearance. It is intermixed
with small veniform portions of dolomite, finely crystallized. Both the
dolomite and granular varieties are completely soluble in sulphuric
acid.
On the smaller islands, the quartz-rock is intersected by retiform
veins of iron ore.
Both are stratified rocks; direction of the strata from east to west,
dipping to the north.
On the morning of the 13th we landed on the principal island, in
pursuit of white squirrels. Mr. Crawfurd following a narrow path-way
in the jungle, pursued it to the distance of nearly a mile, when it
suddenly opened upon a small plain, neatly cultivated with Indian corn,
chillies, yams, and sweet potatoes. It was on all sides surrounded by
hills and thick woods, and had an appearance of neatness, comfort, and
simplicity, calculated to convey an exaggerated, if not erroneous,
notion of its actual state. The cultivated part might extend to eight
or ten acres, a space too extensive for the labours of the feeble
hands of its actual occupants, who had been simply left in charge of
the rude plantation. These were a very old man and woman, the former a
Chinaman, the latter a native of Laos. They were both nearly blind. The
man, on whom we had stolen unobserved, paid at first but little regard
to his visitors. The old woman welcomed us with clamorous expressions
of hospitality. She lamented that she had nothing to offer us but some
plantains and Indian corn. Their hut, though small, was clean and neat.
The transition from civilized life to this rude spot appeared to have
occasioned no regrets on the part of either. However miserable the
condition of rude life, man easily yields to it. No pair could live in
more rude simplicity than this. A few vegetables and the pure stream
were their only viands; the face of unrestrained nature seemed to smile
upon them; yet it was but a fallacious smile; whatever was necessary
for their comfort sprung from the labour of their own hands. Their
wants were but few and easily satisfied. They felt the effects neither
of luxurious habits, nor of capricious appetites. They were exempt from
many of the miseries that accompany a more civilized state. Age alone
had laid his hand upon them, and they were gradually sinking into the
grave. Deafness was added to the loss of sight; yet they complained
only of the loss of the latter. They had naught to complain of but the
loss of that sweetest of our senses; that which adds delight to all the
rest.
The soil was here abundant, and apparently good, consisting of
vegetable mould in considerable proportion, intermixed with lime and
quartz. It was much too good to have been formed from the detritus
of quartz-rock. I may express a doubt whether the rock which we have
called by that name is fairly entitled to it.
In other parts, and particularly on the smaller islands, the soil, on
the contrary, is evidently of the nature of that formed from such a
rock,--steril, dry, earthless, stony.
Several streams of excellent water will be found on various parts of
this island, and a very fine one on the east side, to which a foot-path
leads from a fine sandy beach. On the sloping sides of the hill at this
place, is built a small Pra-cha-di or Dagoba.
The junks usually take shelter under a projecting point, which
terminates the sandy beach. The place is also convenient as affording
excellent water. Though it answers their purpose, it will not that of
European ships. Our men found out a convenient watering-place, about a
mile beyond, on the same side of the island, towards the north.
Notwithstanding the apparent natural luxuriance of these islands, they
will be found, with regard to man, to be rather steril. The proportion
of level ground is besides very inconsiderable, and the hills are too
steep to admit of easy or profitable culture. It is not therefore
likely that they will ever become settlements of any extent on their
own account.
As a depôt favourable to commercial enterprise, much might be said in
favour of their occupation. The bay is spacious and safe at all times,
the entrance wide, the anchorage good, the defence of the place would
not be difficult. It seems probable that the trade of Siam and of
Cochin China might be brought to centre here. It lies quite contiguous
to the countries which produce pepper, cardamoms, agila wood, Benzoin,
&c., articles of great demand in China.
The principal island lies in lat. 13° 12´ N., and long. 155° E.
_August 14th._--The ship being now completed for sea, weighed anchor,
and stood over, with a fair light wind, for the west side of the
gulf. On the following morning both sides of the bay were in sight.
We were within twelve or fifteen miles’ distance of the west coast.
Its appearance is singularly picturesque, yet greatly dissimilar from
that of the opposite side. The most marked difference consists in the
absence of islands on this, while on the opposite they are innumerable.
An extensive low ground, covered with thick woods, stretches along the
sea-coast. We could here see abundance of palms growing; the Palmyra
appeared to be the most common. Appearances would lead us to infer this
low ground to be well inhabited. The lofty mountains in the back-ground
render this country singularly picturesque. Sam-rayot, signifying three
hundred peaks, the name by which the Siamese designate this tract, is
expressive of its appearance. The mountain ranges run in the direction
of north and south. They are very elevated, extremely rugged on their
flanks, as well as summits, projecting into innumerable bold conical
peaks. It is perhaps a singular circumstance, considering that the
direction of these mountain ranges is from north to south, that they
are steepest towards the east, while, of mountains so distributed, it
has been observed, that the steepest acclivities lie towards the west.
Another singular circumstance in the appearance of these mountains,
is that of the insulated situation of some of the loftiest peaks, or
rather mountains. Three of the latter are perfectly conical, lofty, and
very steep, and their position is perfectly insular, miles intervening
between them and the mountain ranges from which they stand detached.
They are situated upon the flat, apparently alluvial, ground already
mentioned.
The greater hardness of the granitic mass in these will hardly account
for this circumstance.
_16th._--Continued our course along the west side of the gulf, until
we had nearly gained Point Kui. From this part of the coast we could
descry the islands off Cape Liant on the opposite side of the gulf.
The mountain ranges which were first visible when we were opposite to
Sam-ra-yot, stretch southward as far as the eye can trace them, without
apparent deviation of form or altitude.
On the 17th, we stood over to the opposite coast. We had now the
regular monsoon from the south-west. The wind steady, and the sea
moderate, but the weather almost constantly cloudy and damp. A small
species of swallow abounds in this part of the bay. Several of them
alighted on the ship, and suffered themselves to be taken.
On the morning of the 19th, Pulo Panjang, an island about three miles
long, surrounded by several lesser ones, situated a little way within
the entrance of the gulf, and distant from the land on both sides,
came in sight. The situation might be considered singular. It has been
rarely visited by Europeans, and the accounts we have of it, as well
as of its geographical position, are very imperfect. On viewing scenes
unfrequented by man, the imagination is but too apt to disappoint the
sober expectations of experience. From the familiar and the common,
it leaps at once into the extravagant, captivated with the visionary
fabric of its own creation.
The imperfection of our knowledge, independent of the peculiar
situation of P. Panjang, in an extensive gulf, little subject to the
influence of storms, had awakened expectation, which the magnitude of
the island, the tabular form of its central range of hills, and the
appearance of bold, precipitous rocks, were calculated to augment on a
more close inspection.
But nature does not always appear under new forms when we most expect
them. At four p. m. we cast anchor on the north side of the island,
about its middle, and immediately landed. An aspect more steril than
ordinary seemed to forbid our approach. The shores were rocky and
precipitous, and though there was but little swell in the sea, we
found some difficulty in reaching the shore. From the centre of the
island to the sea-shore, the land was abrupt and steep, there being
not the smallest extent of level ground. It is everywhere covered with
vegetation, of which a great part of that nearest the beach and exposed
to the direct influence of the monsoon, is stunted, herbaceous, and
disposed in what may be called laid plains or ledges, as if the herbage
had received the impression of pernicious blasts.
The coast of this island is everywhere surrounded by large fragmented
masses of sandstone, in which there is, on the whole, but little
variety of appearance. In situ, it is disposed in large, nearly
horizontal, tabular masses, at a distance wearing somewhat of a slaty
appearance. The sand-stone is for the most part red, at other times
white or gray. It is coarse-grained and gritty, presenting no vestige
of organic remains; here and there it is coloured with iron. The cement
in most parts seems to be calcareous. Here and there, large masses of
conglomerate are found; the masses that I have seen were all detached,
but in some parts the surface of the sand-stone shewed where they had
adhered; the structure of this was complex; iron seemed to form the
cement; rounded pebbles of quartz, sand-stone, iron ore and jasper,
with small bits of clay-slate, form the aggregate. Scattered over the
beach, there were found masses of coarse jasper.
Such were the principal, and almost the only mineral masses exposed to
our view, and of which, we have every reason to believe, the whole of
the island is composed.
It is not to be expected that such an island as this would afford many
zoological specimens. Of the Mammalia, we saw two animals; a handsome
species of gray-coloured Sciurus, which we had the good fortune to
procure, and a small species of Vespertilio, which fluttered about
amongst the thickest shades of the forest.
Of the Aves, we saw several of that species of Falco taken at the
Sechang Islands, the Columba alba in great numbers, and a singular
species of Columba, of a black colour and a white tail. All our
endeavours to procure the latter were unsuccessful. These, with the
blue-coloured Heron, and a small bird of the Passerine kind, were all
that we saw here.
Of vegetable productions, we procured a hardy species of vine, Vitis
Labrusca, common in the forest; it was covered with great quantities of
grapes, which, though not yet quite ripe, were not ungrateful to the
taste. The vine stretches along the trees, often to the distance of
fifteen or twenty yards.
We found also two species of Palm, and an elegant tree of the Nat. Ord.
Guttiferæ was discovered by Mr. Crawfurd; its affinity to Garcinia is
well marked, but as the leading characters do not agree with those of
that plant, it is not improbable that ours will form a new genus.
An elegant species of Begonia, apparently the Begonia crenata, grows
in the greatest abundance on the bare rocks, and on the sides of the
hills. Pandanus, Scævola, Ixora, Momordica, Calophyllum, and Erythrina,
are common here; but as we had seen all the species to be found here
in other places, it is unnecessary to take further notice of them. A
species of Scolopendrium, usually found on trees, is here terrestrial;
it grows to an immense size, the fronds being from three to four feet
in length; the greater beauty of the frond, and its singular magnitude,
are the only circumstances in which it differs from our Scolopendrium
vulgare.
The Island Pulo Panjang is, on the whole, inhospitable, affording
no temptation whatever to man to take up his abode on it. It is
unprotected against the vicissitudes of the weather, it is fully
exposed to the pernicious influence of either monsoon; it is steep,
rugged, and unproductive, and totally destitute of level ground. It has
no safe port, nor convenient anchorage, and the few streams of water
that trickle down the rocks afford but a scanty and uncertain supply.
The shores of the island are so near to its central ridge of mountains,
that but few streams can be formed.
We lay off the island all night, and set sail at an early hour on the
following morning, after an unsuccessful attempt to procure the black
pigeon we had seen here on the night before.
_August 20th._--We continued an easterly course, and about noon had
come in sight of False Pulo Ubi. About four a. m. of the 21st, we
passed the Island of Pulo Ubi, and towards evening, the barren islands
called the Two Brothers. The latter are abrupt, precipitous, and
naked rocks, covered with myriads of a species of Sterna. A large and
handsome species of Pelican, with a black body and white bill, was seen
flying about here.
On the approach of night, we had a distinct view of Pulo Condore, a
mountainous island, with a singular sharp peak in its centre. We stood
towards the island till we were within six or eight miles of it, when
the ship lay-to for the night.
On the morning of the 22d, we cast anchor under the shelter of a bold,
elevated ridge of mountains, in a spacious and beautiful bay. After
breakfast we landed on the rocks opposite, and proceeded along them
until we came to an extensive sandy plain.
The physical features of Pulo Condore may be described in few words;
the chief characteristic being a number of very steep ranges of hills,
irregularly distributed, in some parts forming semicircular bays, in
others narrow inlets, and in the interior disposed in deep basins,
ravines, and plains of small extent. It is everywhere covered with
vegetation, which on those parts most exposed to the influence of the
monsoon is stunted, almost exclusively herbaceous, and disposed in
numerous narrow and parallel ledges; while that which grows in ravines,
vallies, and other sheltered places, attains a loftier magnitude.
Towards the summits of the hills, there is scarce any vegetation.
The paucity of the Gramineæ in all these islands, and in all kinds
of soil, is a singular circumstance in intertropical vegetation. The
peculiar form and modification of vegetable life in the islands we have
lately visited, as well as in this, cannot, I imagine, be altogether
attributed to the influence of the monsoons.
It seems to me that much is owing to the nature of the soil, or more
properly of the rocks forming these islands. In all of them the rocks
are either strictly primitive, or composed of materials which once
constituted such formations. In some the mountain masses are so steep,
that whatever soil is formed is constantly carried off into the sea.
In others, the mass is of such hardness, as scarcely to yield any
detritus for ages. Such is the case here, where the rocks are composed
of granite and sienite, so hard as scarce to be fractured by any
means. It detaches large and solid masses, but yields little earth.
The material is besides unfavourable to the growth of plants. Yet the
force of vegetation, aided by the climate, and a constant source of
moisture, is such as to overcome every difficulty; and where we should
expect nothing but sterility and nudity, we find all is beauty, and
life, and luxuriance; so easily does nature, with means which seem to
us impossible, accomplish the greatest ends.
Of the geology of this island I have little more to say than has
already been mentioned, that the rocks are of the form described, and
that they are composed of granite and sienite, both of extreme hardness.
On the sea-shore we found, in full blossom, several fine trees, of the
Barringtonia speciosa, a tree well deserving of the encomium which its
beautiful appearance has elicited from authors. We had found its seeds
cast on the shores of islands in the straits of Malacca; but had not
seen the tree till now. We found here several other interesting plants.
Amongst them was another species of vine, the fruit of which made an
excellent tart.
The only quadruped which we saw in the woods, was a large species
of black squirrel. A specimen of this animal was caught alive, but
unfortunately escaped from its cage on board the ship. We were informed
that monkeys and wild hogs are to be found on the island, and that of
birds there is great variety.
After leaving the rocky coast and steep sides of the hills, we came
to a sandy plain, several miles long, through which two considerable
streams of fresh water discharge themselves into the sea.
About the middle of this plain, protected on two of its sides by an
elevated sand bank, we discovered the scanty remains of what had once
been an English factory or fort. Some native soldiers from Macassar,
who had been in the service of our countrymen, rose upon them, and
massacred the greater number, a few only escaping, by flying to their
boats. This happened in 1704.
At the extremity of this plain we came to a village of considerable
size, said to contain 300 inhabitants.
It is surrounded by plantations of cocoa-nut trees, which although they
grow in great abundance, are rather stunted in the stem, and their
fruit, as well as the fluid it contains, has a peculiar and rather
bitter taste. A few scattered plants of the Ricinus communis, Jasminum,
and some other low bushes, afford ample shelter to their houses, which
are even lower, though neat and apparently comfortable. Here, as in
most parts of India, the Vinca rosea grew luxuriously in every part
of the village. At the short distance of even fifty yards beyond it,
though there was no ascertainable difference in the soil or other
circumstances, you look in vain for a single plant.
We found here a numerous, interesting, and lively people, who no longer
had any complexion of the savage state. The colony was originally from
Cochin China, and might be supposed to be little less civilized than
that accomplished people; besides the intercourse with that country is
frequent. Some of the inhabitants, however, bore a strong resemblance
to the Malay race. A number of boys and girls were engaged at play upon
the beach; on our approach they behaved in the most respectful manner,
and it was to us a sight as gratifying as it was unexpected, to find so
much urbanity, hospitality, and politeness in this little community.
They left off play on our approach, and being joined by several elderly
persons, conducted us to an open hut, with an elevated bamboo floor,
in which the chief or governor of the place was accustomed to receive
visitors. We were here soon surrounded by a considerable number of
respectable people, among whom there were but one or two women, who
kept at a distance. Here we remained for some time, in expectation
of seeing the chief, who was rather tardy in making his appearance.
This individual was a fine old man, of an animated and interesting
appearance, as, indeed, were the greater number of the people, being
equally removed from the clumsy, loutish form and coarse, incurious
manner of the Siamese, as from the more muscular and developed frame,
and the oblique and morose character of the Chinese. All the old
men wore a thin, straggling beard. Our friend conversed with great
animation. He had not seen an European ship for many years; he had
been born on the island, which paid a tribute in turtle, and in oil
obtained from that animal, to the king of Cochin China. There are
several villages on the island, and the total number of the inhabitants
is said to amount to 800. They subsist chiefly by the products of their
fisheries, which they either carry to Cochin China, or dispose of to
junks and coasting praus, in return for grain. The quantity of rice
raised in the island is very limited. They have some buffaloes; fowls
are common. They raise yams, pumpkins, melons, capsicum, limes, and a
little Indian corn. Some cocoa-nuts were brought at our request. On our
proposing to visit the houses of the inhabitants, the chief conducted
us to his own, the largest and best in the place. A few spears and a
tomtom lay before the door. A number of persons were here assembled,
and in one corner of the room were the women of the chief. An old man
happening to sit beside me, I endeavoured to converse with him through
the medium of signs. He was much pleased with this mark of attention,
and paid me many civilities, offering betel and samsoo. I took a piece
of coarse white cloth, and wrapt it round his head by way of turban, at
which he was quite delighted. He called to a boy, and ordered him to
bring a fowl; it was in vain that I represented to him that I wished
for nothing in return, and when I refused his gift, he coolly unfolded
the cloth from his head in order to return it. I now gave him a small
piece of money, but he was not to be overcome in this way either; and
the only condition on which he would receive this also, was that of my
taking two more fowls in return.
I might have added other traits of conduct favourable to the candour
and disinterestedness of the simple inhabitants of Pulo Condor; but
this one speaks loudly. At parting, the old man extended his arms, and
expressed, in very significant terms, that he had been pleased at our
meeting. The principal people, with the chief, proposed to visit us on
board. I was happy to find my old friend among the number, and had the
pleasure of giving him great delight by presenting him with an English
knife.
We looked here in vain for the grape mentioned by Dampier, as growing
on trees in the woods. We found a species of vine, however, which
afforded a grape of tolerable size, and not ungrateful to the taste. We
saw numbers of trees in the forest, which the natives had cut in the
manner mentioned by Dampier, for the purpose of obtaining a sort of
resin or pitch.
In the evening we sailed from this place, and passed out through a wide
channel towards the north, with islands on each side.
On the morning of the 23d, the high land of Cape St. James was in
sight, and on the evening of the same day we came to anchor some miles
off from the mouth of the river. Cape St. James is the extremity of
a ridge of hills of moderate height, (about 300 feet,) forming the
left bank of the mouth of the river. It is seen at a great distance;
the land on the opposite side of the river is extremely low, and an
extensive sand bank stretches out in front of this low land to the
distance of several miles. This bank produces a singular effect at the
period of ebb tide. As we were sailing along, at some distance from
its outer edge, the depth of water being eleven fathoms, we observed
the sea towards the land to be of a muddy colour, and its edge quite
abrupt and defined. On its border there was a distinct ripple with a
slight noise, and the whole extended as far as the eye could reach. It
was in rather quick motion, and advancing towards the sea, and soon
left us in the middle of it. I have seen currents similar to this, but
of less extent, off the Maldive Islands.
On the 24th we came to anchor, near to the Bay of Cocoa-nuts, a few
miles within Point St. James, and with the evening tide stood up
the river to a village called Kan-dyu. From Cape St. James to this
village, the distance is about nine miles. The river here forms a fine,
spacious, and beautiful bay, of a semi-circular form, being bounded on
the left by the ridge of hills already mentioned. While the ship lay at
anchor near to the Bay of Cocoa-nuts, we landed on the rocks opposite.
The formation of the rocks here approaches very nearly to that which we
had observed at Pulo Condor; the materials of the granitic compounds
were however differently aggregated, and the mass here was more easily
frangible than in the former place. Granite and sienite were the only
rocks we discovered; in both, small veins of a rich iron ore were
observable. The granite was seamed in every direction; and it was not
possible to say that either rock was stratified. They appeared to exist
in equal quantity, and to alternate with each other on the rounded
sides of the hills.
We found the bamboo growing in abundance on the hills, and in a
few places the Nipa fruticans. We found also an elegant species of
Tradescantia, with a blue flower. We could hear the notes of the jungle
cock, or Phasianus gallus, in the woods, but there were on the whole
very few birds to be seen here.
As the ship was proceeding up the river with the tide, a boat came off
from the village of Vung-tao, in which was an old man and six or seven
others. The visit, it would appear, had been voluntary on their part;
they wished to point out what they considered to be the proper course
of the ship, and seemed very anxious to procure our continuance near
their village during the night. The people of this boat were affable,
and remarkably polite and animated, but rather too loquacious. They
were all decently clad; their common dress consisted of a close shirt
of black or white cotton cloth, which reached down to the thighs; a
pair of coarse loose trowsers, which reached to the knee, and a piece
of coarse cloth or handkerchief, wrapped round the head. Persons in
better circumstances wear a black crape turban of large size, and the
other parts of their dress are made of silk.
These men stated that the principal person in authority here, resided
at Kan-dyu. They offered to take a letter to him, which was sent.
On the 25th, the Chief of Kan-dyu paid us a visit on board, and took
charge of an official communication, written in English and French, to
the Governor of Lower Cochin China, who resides at Saigon. Mr. Crawfurd
was naturally anxious to see that city, the first in the empire, in
respect of commercial importance; and in his communication requested
permission to visit the place, and to confer with the Governor on the
subject of his mission.
Whilst we waited here for an answer from Saigon, we paid occasional
visits to the neighbouring village of Kan-dyu, built upon the banks of
a creek, in a situation somewhat swampy, the banks being shaded with
mangrove. The manners of the people here were so different from those
of the Siamese, that we could not but feel both surprised and pleased
at the contrast. The Governor of Kan-dyu is a singular character in
many respects: he is upwards of sixty years of age, has a long, spare,
lanky visage, in which he exhibits, in the most lively and animated
manner, a considerable variety of passion. It was truly ludicrous to
see with what rapidity his features passed from the serious to the
whimsical, from vacancy to the intensity of anger or disappointment.
The manners of the people in general were polite, I should say
refined; they were kind, attentive, and obliging; they courted rather
than shunned our society, and seemed to have less of the weakness or
ostentation of natural pride than any of the tribes we had yet met.
Their curiosity was naturally excited by the contrast which they could
not but draw between themselves and us, but in the gratification of
this feeling, or in its expression, was neither coarseness nor absence
of good-breeding; and the greatest liberty they ventured to assume
was that of simply touching our dress, with the design, I presume,
of ascertaining the materials of its texture, they themselves having
little notion of any other fit for this purpose than silk, in which all
ranks are almost exclusively clothed.
In point of stature, the Cochin-Chinese are below the standard of
the Malays and Siamese; they are at the same time less bulky, and
less clumsily made, yet even they too have something of squatness
in their figure. The general form of the face is round, and that
in an extraordinary degree; it is short, the direct and transverse
diameters being very nearly equal. The forehead is short, but broad;
the cheek-bones wide, not particularly salient; the chin is large and
broad; they want the fulness of the coronoid process of the lower jaw,
so large in the Malays and Siamese. The affinity to the Tartar race is
obvious, but less so than in the former. The beard is grisly and thin;
the hair coarse, copious and black; the eyes are more round than those
of the Chinese or Siamese, they are also smaller, but more lively; they
are, as usual, intensely black. The nose is small, but well formed,
without flatness or alar expansion; the lips are moderately thick; the
cheeks are destitute of hair, and the beard, as has been said, is very
scanty. The general form of the head is globular.
There is no unusual degree of obesity at any age. In females, at an
early period, it is, however, more developed than in men. The body is
well proportioned, and the limbs are well made, though for the most
part small. The colour is remarkably fair; in many it is more so than
is that of the inhabitants of the southern parts of Europe.
They are good-natured, polite, attentive, and indulgent to strangers.
Their manners are agreeable, and they are for the most part found in a
lively, playful humour, and strongly disposed to indulge in mirth. They
are the gayest of Orientals, yet the transition from mirth to sorrow,
and the more hateful and mean passions, seems to cost them nothing;
it is as rapid as it is unaccountable, insomuch that to a stranger
their conduct appears quite unreasonable, as well as fickle. Like the
monkey race, their attention is perpetually changing from one object to
another.
The houses are large and comfortable, constructed in general with mud
walls, and roofed with tiles. The palm-leaf is but little used. The
interior disposition of the house is somewhat peculiar. About one half
forms an open hall, in which they receive visitors, transact business,
and, if shop-keepers, dispose their wares. In the back part of this
hall is placed an altar, and other emblems of religion. The private
apartments are disposed in recesses behind; these are in the form of
square chambers, open on one side only. Their beds are formed of a
bench raised about a foot, and covered with mats.
The costume of the Cochin Chinese is more convenient than elegant. In
both sexes it is much alike, consisting of two or more loose gowns with
long sleeves, reaching to the knee, and buttoned close round the neck.
Beneath this they wear a pair of wide pantaloons, and, on occasions of
ceremony, persons of distinction throw a large black mantle of flowered
silk over the whole. The head is covered with a turban of crape; that
of the men is in general black. Over the turbans, females wear a large
hat, similar to a basket.
Dress is with all ranks an object of great attention; even the poorest
among them are clothed from head to foot, and the populace thus make a
more decent and respectable appearance than other eastern nations.
At this place we entered several of the houses, and were entertained
with kindness and hospitality. The bazar of Kan-dyu is well supplied
with fish, ducks, fowls, eggs, and whatever else is necessary for the
comfort of the natives. The shops are individually poor, and almost
every house is a shop. They are in general held by women. If they
furnish little to gratify the curiosity of a European, they supply in
abundance all that is necessary and useful to the native inhabitants.
The practice of smoking tobacco is universal, as is that of chewing
betel. Their _cheroots_ are made by wrapping the tobacco up in paper.
On the morning of the 28th of August, an answer was received from the
Governor of Saigon, who despatched a mandarin of rank to wait upon
the Agent to the Governor General, and to invite him to visit the
city. He was accompanied by several lesser mandarins, and had brought
with him three large, handsome, and highly ornamented barges, for
the accommodation of the Agent to the Governor General. The larger
contained from thirty to forty rowers each. The rowers were dressed in
coarse red cloth, faced with yellow. They wore a light cap, surmounted
with a plume of feathers. Thus dressed, they made a very handsome
appearance. Every thing here is done by soldiers; the meanest offices
fall to their lot, and these rowers were a detachment of the military
force.
Mr. Crawfurd was doubtful whether he should have time to visit Saigon,
as it was possible he might be delayed there, until it was too late to
get to Turon, the south-west monsoon being about to cease. The mandarin
assured him that he should be permitted to return in three days, and
used such arguments as convinced us that they were very anxious that he
should visit the Governor of Saigon.
On this assurance of the mandarin, Mr. Crawfurd consented to go, and
asked me to accompany him. Being uncertain how we should be received,
he left instructions with Captain Dangerfield to sail in the course
of ten days, in the event of his not hearing from him in that time;
to proceed to Turon, and to communicate his arrival to the court.
Lieutenant Rutherford was to accompany him. Mrs. Crawfurd remained also
on board.
FOOTNOTE:
[22] Packnam is a term of frequent occurrence in Siam, apparently
signifying the mouth of a river.