[40] Called Pittsburg Landing and Corinth.

[41] This was the occasion when they telegraphed such a quantity of

nonsense to the Yankee general, receiving valuable information in

return, and such necessary stores by train as Morgan was in need of.

* * * * *

_31st May_ (Sunday).--The Bishop of Georgia preached to-day to a very

large congregation in the Presbyterian church. He is a most eloquent

preacher; and he afterwards confirmed about twenty people,--amongst

others, Colonel Gale (over forty years old), and young Polk. After

church, I called again on General Bragg, who talked to me a long time

about the battle of Murfreesborough (in which he commanded). He said

that he retained possession of the ground he had won for three days and

a half, and only retired on account of the exhaustion of his troops, and

after carrying off over 6000 prisoners, much cannon, and other trophies.

He allowed that Rosecrans had displayed much firmness, and was "_the

only man in the Yankee army who was not badly beaten_." He showed me, on

a plan, the exact position of the two armies, and also the field of

operations of the renowned guerillas, Morgan and Forrest.

Colonel Grenfell called again, and I arranged to visit the outposts

with him on Tuesday. He spoke to me in high terms of Bragg, Polk,

Hardee, and Cleburne; but he described some of the others as "political"

generals, and others as good fighters, but illiterate and somewhat

addicted to liquor. He deplored the effect of politics upon military

affairs as very injurious in the Confederate army, though not so bad as

it is in the Northern.

At 2 P.M. I travelled in the cars to Wartrace in company with General

Bragg and the Bishop of Georgia. We were put into a baggage-car, and the

General and the Bishop were the only persons provided with seats.

Although the distance from Shelbyville to Wartrace is only eight miles,

we were one hour and ten minutes in effecting the _trajet_, in such a

miserable and dangerous state were the rails. On arriving at Wartrace we

were entertained by Major-General Cleburne. This officer gave me his

history. He is the son of a doctor at or near Ballincolig. At the age of

seventeen he ran away from home, and enlisted in Her Majesty's 41st

Regiment of foot, in which he served three years as private and

corporal. He then bought his discharge, and emigrated to Arkansas, where

he studied law, and, eschewing politics, he got a good practice as a

lawyer. At the outbreak of the war he was elected captain of his

company, then colonel of his regiment, and has since, by his

distinguished services in all the western campaigns, been appointed to

the command of a division (10,000 men)--the highest military rank which

has been attained by a foreigner in the Confederate service. He told me

that he ascribed his advancement mainly to the useful lessons which he

had learnt in the ranks of the British army, and he pointed with a laugh

to his general's white facings, which he said his 41st experience

enabled him to keep cleaner than any other Confederate general.[42] He

is now thirty-five years of age; but, his hair having turned grey, he

looks older. Generals Bragg and Hardee both spoke to me of him in terms

of the highest praise, and said that he had risen entirely by his own

personal merit.

At 5 P.M. I was present at a great open-air preaching at General Wood's

camp. Bishop Elliott preached most admirably to a congregation composed

of nearly 3000 soldiers, who listened to him with the most profound

attention. Generals Bragg, Polk, Hardee, Withers, Cleburne, and endless

brigadiers, were also present. It is impossible to exaggerate the

respect paid by all ranks of this army to Bishop Elliott; and although

most of the officers are Episcopalians, the majority of the soldiers are

Methodists, Baptists, &c. Bishop Elliott afterwards explained to me that

the reason most of the people had become dissenters was because there

had been no bishops in America during the "British dominion;" and all

the clergy having been appointed from England, had almost without

exception stuck by the King in the Revolution, and had had their livings

forfeited.

I dined and slept at General Hardee's, but spent the evening at Mrs

----'s, where I heard renewed philippics directed by the ladies against

the Yankees.

I find that it is a great mistake to suppose that the Press is gagged in

the South, as I constantly see the most violent attacks upon the

President--upon the different generals and their measures. To-day I

heard the officers complaining bitterly of the 'Chattanooga Rebel,' for

publishing an account of Breckenridge's departure from this army to

reinforce Johnston in Mississippi, and thus giving early intelligence to

the enemy.

[42] The 41st Regiment wears white facings; so do the generals in the

Confederate army. M. de Polignac has recently been appointed a

brigadier: he and Cleburne are the only two generals amongst the

Confederates who are foreigners.

* * * * *

_1st June_ (Monday).--We all went to a review of General Liddell's

brigade at Bellbuckle, a distance of six miles. There were three

carriages full of ladies, and I rode an excellent horse, the gift of

General John Morgan to General Hardee. The weather and the scenery were

delightful. General Hardee asked me particularly whether Mr Mason had

been kindly received in England. I replied that I thought he had, by

private individuals. I have often found the Southerners rather touchy on

this point.

General Liddell's brigade was composed of Arkansas troops--five very

weak regiments which had suffered severely in the different battles, and

they cannot be easily recruited on account of the blockade of the

Mississippi. The men were good-sized, healthy, and well clothed, but

without any attempt at uniformity in colour or cut; but nearly all were

dressed either in grey or brown coats and felt hats. I was told that

even if a regiment was clothed in proper uniform by the Government, it

would become parti-coloured again in a week, as the soldiers preferred

wearing the coarse homespun jackets and trousers made by their mothers

and sisters at home. The Generals very wisely allow them to please

themselves in this respect, and insist only upon their arms and

accoutrements being kept in proper order. Most of the officers were

dressed in uniform which is neat and serviceable--viz., a bluish-grey

frock-coat of a colour similar to Austrian yagers. The infantry wear

blue facings, the artillery red, the doctors black, the staff white, and

the cavalry yellow; so it is impossible to mistake the branch of the

service to which an officer belongs--nor is it possible to mistake his

rank. A second lieutenant, first lieutenant, and captain, wear

respectively one, two, and three bars on the collar. A major,

lieutenant-colonel, and colonel, wear one, two, and three stars on the

collar.

Before the marching past of the brigade, many of the soldiers had taken

off their coats and marched past the General in their shirt-sleeves, on

account of the warmth. Most of them were armed with Enfield rifles

captured from the enemy. Many, however, had lost or thrown away their

bayonets, which they don't appear to value properly, as they assert that

they have never met any Yankees who would wait for that weapon. I

expressed a desire to see them form square, but it appeared they were

"not drilled to such a manoeuvre" (except square two deep). They said

the country did not admit of cavalry charges, even if the Yankee cavalry

had stomach to attempt it.

Each regiment carried a "battle-flag," blue, with a white border, on

which were inscribed the names "Belmont," "Shiloh," "Perryville,"

"Richmond, Ky.," and "Murfreesborough." They drilled tolerably well, and

an advance in line was remarkably good; but General Liddell had invented

several dodges of his own, for which he was reproved by General Hardee.

The review being over, the troops were harangued by Bishop Elliott in

an excellent address, partly religious, partly patriotic. He was

followed by a congress man of vulgar appearance, named Hanley, from

Arkansas, who delivered himself of a long and uninteresting political

oration, and ended by announcing himself as a candidate for re-election.

This speech seemed to me (and to others) particularly ill-timed, out of

place, and ridiculous, addressed as it was to soldiers in front of the

enemy. But this was one of the results of universal suffrage. The

soldiers afterwards wanted General Hardee to say something, but he

declined. I imagine that the discipline in this army is the strictest in

the Confederacy, and that the men are much better marchers than those I

saw in Mississippi.

A soldier was shot in Wartrace this afternoon. We heard the volley just

as we left in the cars for Shelbyville. His crime was desertion to the

enemy; and as the prisoner's brigade was at Tullahoma (twenty miles

off), he was executed without ceremony by the Provost guard. Spies are

hung every now and then; but General Bragg told me it was almost

impossible for either side to stop the practice.

Bishop Elliott, Dr Quintard, and myself got back to General Polk's

quarters at 5 P.M., where I was introduced to a Colonel Styles, who was

formerly United States minister at Vienna. In the evening I made the

acquaintance of General Wheeler, Van Dorn's successor in the command of

the cavalry of this army, which is over 24,000 strong. He is a very

little man, only twenty-six years of age, and was dressed in a coat much

too big for him. He made his reputation by protecting the retreat of the

army through Kentucky last year. He was a graduate of West Point, and

seems a remarkably zealous officer, besides being very modest and

unassuming in his manners.

General Polk told me that, notwithstanding the departure of

Breckenridge, this army is now much stronger than it was at the time of

the battle of Murfreesborough. I think that probably 45,000 infantry and

artillery could be brought together immediately for a battle.

* * * * *

_2d June_ (Tuesday).--Colonel Grenfell and I rode to the outposts,

starting on the road to Murfreesborough at 6 A.M. It rained hard nearly

all day. He explained to me the method of fighting adopted by the

Western cavalry, which he said was admirably adapted for this country;

but he denied that they could, under any circumstances, stand a fair

charge of regular cavalry in the open. Their system is to dismount and

leave their horses in some secure place. One man is placed in charge of

his own and three other horses, whilst the remainder act as infantry

skirmishers in the dense woods and broken country, making a tremendous

row, and deceiving the enemy as to their numbers, and as to their

character as infantry or cavalry. In this manner Morgan, assisted by two

small guns, called bulldogs, attacked the Yankees with success in

towns, forts, stockades, and steamboats; and by the same system, Wheeler

and Wharton kept a large pursuing army in check for twenty-seven days,

retreating and fighting every day, and deluding the enemy with the idea

that they were being resisted by a strong force composed of all three

branches of the service.

Colonel Grenfell told me that the only way in which an officer could

acquire influence over the Confederate soldiers was by his personal

conduct under fire. They hold a man in great esteem who in action sets

them an example of contempt for danger; but they think nothing of an

officer who is not in the habit of _leading_ them; in fact, such a man

could not possibly retain his position. Colonel Grenfell's expression

was, "Every atom of authority has to be purchased by a drop of your

blood." He told me he was in desperate hot water with the civil

authorities of the State, who accuse him of illegally impressing and

appropriating horses, and also of conniving at the escape of a negro

from his lawful owner, and he said that the military authorities were

afraid or unable to give him proper protection.

For the first nine miles our road was quite straight and hilly, with a

thick wood on either side. We then reached a pass in the hills called

Guy's Gap, which, from the position of the hills, is very strong, and

could be held by a small force. The range of hills extends as far as

Wartrace, but I understand the position could be turned on the left.

About two miles beyond Guy's Gap were the headquarters of General

Martin, the officer who commands the brigade of cavalry stationed in the

neighbourhood. General Martin showed me the letter sent by the Yankees a

few days ago by flag of truce with Mr Vallandigham. This letter was

curiously worded, and ended, as far as I can remember, with this

expression: "Mr Vallandigham is therefore handed over to the respectful

attention of the Confederate authorities." General Martin told me that

skirmishing and bushwhacking went on nearly every day, and that ten days

ago the enemy's cavalry by a bold dash had captured a field-piece close

to his own quarters. It was, however, retaken, and its captors were

killed.

One of General Martin's staff officers conducted us to the bivouac of

Colonel Webb (three miles further along the road), who commanded the

regiment on outpost duty there--51st Alabama Cavalry. This Colonel Webb

was a lawyer by profession, and seemed a capital fellow; and he insisted

on riding with us to the videttes in spite of the rain, and he also

desired his regiment to turn out for us by the time we returned. The

extreme outposts were about two miles beyond Colonel Webb's post, and

about sixteen miles from Shelbyville. The neutral ground extended for

about three miles. We rode along it as far as it was safe to do so, and

just came within sight of the Yankee videttes. The Confederate videttes

were at an interval of from 300 to 400 yards of each other. Colonel

Webb's regiment was in charge of two miles of the front; and, in a

similar manner, the chain of videttes was extended by other corps right

and left for more than eighty miles. Scouts are continually sent forward

by both sides to collect information. Rival scouts and pickets

invariably fire on one another whenever they meet; and Colonel Webb

good-naturedly offered, if I was particularly anxious to see their

customs and habits, to send forward a few men and have a little fight. I

thanked him much for his kind offer, but begged he wouldn't trouble

himself so far on my account. He showed me the house where Vallandigham

had been "dumped down" between the outposts when they refused to receive

him by flag of truce.

The woods on both sides of the road showed many signs of the conflicts

which are of daily occurrence. Most of the houses by the roadside had

been destroyed; but one plucky old lady had steadfastly refused to turn

out, although her house was constantly an object of contention, and

showed many marks of bullets and shell. Ninety-seven men were employed

every day in Colonel Webb's regiment to patrol the front. The remainder

of the 51st Alabama were mounted and drawn up to receive Colonel

Grenfell on our return from the outposts. They were uniformly armed with

long rifles and revolvers, but without sabres, and they were a fine body

of young men. Their horses were in much better condition than might have

been expected, considering the scanty food and hard duty they had had to

put up with for the last five months, without shelter of any kind,

except the trees. Colonel Grenfell told me they were a very fair

specimen of the immense number of cavalry with Bragg's army. I got back

to Shelbyville at 4.30 P.M., just in time to be present at an

interesting ceremony peculiar to America. This was a baptism at the

Episcopal Church. The ceremony was performed in an impressive manner by

Bishop Elliott, and the person baptised was no less than the

commander-in-chief of the army. The Bishop took the general's hand in

his own (the latter kneeling in front of the font), and said, "Braxton,

if thou hast not already been baptised, I baptise thee," &c. Immediately

afterwards he confirmed General Bragg, who then shook hands with General

Polk, the officers of their respective staffs, and myself, who were the

only spectators.

The soldiers on sentry at General Polk's quarters this afternoon were

deficient both of shoes and stockings. These were the first barefooted

soldiers I had as yet seen in the Confederacy.

I had intended to have left Shelbyville to-morrow with Bishop Elliott;

but as I was informed that a reconnaissance in force was arranged for

to-morrow, I accepted General Polk's kind offer of farther hospitality

for a couple of days more. Four of Polk's brigades with artillery move

to the front to-morrow, and General Hardee is also to push forward from

Wartrace. The object of this movement is to ascertain the enemy's

strength at Murfreesborough, as rumour asserts that Rosecrans is

strengthening Grant in Mississippi, which General Bragg is not disposed

to allow with impunity. The weather is now almost chilly.

* * * * *

_3d June_ (Wednesday).--Bishop Elliott left for Savannah at 6 A.M., in

a downpour of rain, which continued nearly all day. Grenfell came to see

me this morning in a towering rage. He had been arrested in his bed by

the civil power on a charge of horse-stealing, and conniving at the

escape of a negro from his master. General Bragg himself had stood bail

for him, but Grenfell was naturally furious at the indignity. But, even

according to his own account, he seems to have acted indiscreetly in the

affair of the negro, and he will have to appear before the civil court

next October. General Polk and his officers were all much vexed at the

occurrence, which, however, is an extraordinary and convincing proof

that the military had not superseded the civil power in the Southern

States; for here was an important officer arrested, in spite of the

commander-in-chief, when in the execution of his office before the

enemy. By standing bail, General Bragg gave a most positive proof that

he exonerated Grenfell from any malpractices.[43]

In the evening, after dark, General Polk drew my attention to the manner

in which the signal beacons were worked. One light was stationary on the

ground, whilst another was moved backwards and forwards over it. They

gave us intelligence that General Hardee had pushed the enemy to within

five miles of Murfreesborough, after heavy skirmishing all day.

I got out of General Polk the story of his celebrated adventure with

the ---- Indiana (Northern) regiment, which resulted in the almost total

destruction of that corps. I had often during my travels heard officers

and soldiers talking of this extraordinary feat of the "Bishop's." The

modest yet graphic manner in which General Polk related this wonderful

instance of coolness and bravery was extremely interesting, and I now

repeat it, as nearly as I can, in his own words.

"Well, sir, it was at the battle of Perryville, late in the evening--in

fact, it was almost dark when Liddell's Brigade came into action.

Shortly after its arrival I observed a body of men, whom I believed to

be Confederates, standing at an angle to this brigade, and firing

obliquely at the newly arrived troops. I said, 'Dear me, this is very

sad, and must be stopped;' so I turned round, but could find none of my

young men, who were absent on different messages; so I determined to

ride myself and settle the matter. Having cantered up to the colonel of

the regiment which was firing, I asked him in angry tones what he meant

by shooting his own friends, and I desired him to cease doing so at

once. He answered with surprise, 'I don't think there can be any mistake

about it; I am sure they are the enemy.' 'Enemy!' I said; 'why, I have

only just left them myself. Cease firing, sir; what is your name, sir?'

'_My name is Colonel ----, of the ---- Indiana; and pray, sir, who are

you?_'

"Then for the first time I saw, to my astonishment, that he was a

Yankee, and that I was in rear of a regiment of Yankees. Well, I saw

that there was no hope but to brazen it out; my dark blouse and the

increasing obscurity befriended me, so I approached quite close to him

and shook my fist in his face, saying, 'I'll soon show you who I am,

sir; cease firing, sir, at once.' I then turned my horse and cantered

slowly down the line, shouting in an authoritative manner to the Yankees

to cease firing; at the same time I experienced a disagreeable

sensation, like screwing up my back, and calculating how many bullets

would be between my shoulders every moment. I was afraid to increase my

pace until I got to a small copse, when I put the spurs in and galloped

back to my men. I immediately went up to the nearest colonel, and said

to him, 'Colonel, I have reconnoitred those fellows pretty closely--and

I find there is no mistake who they are; you may get up and go at them.'

And I assure you, sir, that the slaughter of that Indiana regiment was

the greatest I have ever seen in the war."[45]

It is evident to me that a certain degree of jealous feeling exists

between the Tennesseean and Virginian armies. This one claims to have

had harder fighting than the Virginian army, and to have been opposed to

the best troops and best generals of the North.

The Southerners generally appear to estimate highest the north-western

Federal troops, which compose in a great degree the armies of Grant and

Rosecrans; they come from the states of Ohio, Iowa, Indiana, &c. The

Irish Federals are also respected for their fighting qualities; whilst

the genuine Yankees and Germans (Dutch) are not much esteemed.

I have been agreeably disappointed in the climate of Tennessee, which

appears quite temperate to what I had expected.

[43] I cut this out of a Charleston paper some days after I had parted

from Colonel Grenfell: Colonel Grenfell was only obeying General Bragg's

orders in depriving the soldier of his horse, and temporarily of his

money:--

"COLONEL ST LEGER GRENFELL.--The Western army correspondent of the

'Mobile Register' writes as follows:--The famous Colonel St Leger

Grenfell, who served with Morgan last summer, and since that time has

been Assistant Inspector-General of General Bragg, was arrested a few

days since by the civil authorities. The sheriff and his officers called

upon the bold Englishman before he had arisen in the morning, and after

the latter had performed his toilet duties he buckled on his belt and

trusty pistols. The officer of the law remonstrated, and the Englisher

damned, and a struggle of half an hour ensued, in which the stout

Britisher made a powerful resistance, but, by overpowering force, was at

last placed _hors de combat_ and disarmed.[44] The charges were, that he

retained in his possession the slave of a Confederate citizen, and

refused to deliver him or her up; that meeting a soldier coming to the

army leading a horse, he accused him of being a deserter, dismounted

him, took his horses and equipments and _money_, stating that deserters

were not worthy to have either horses or money, and sent the owner

thereof off where he would not be heard of again. The result of the

affair was, that Colonel Grenfell, whether guilty or not guilty,

delivered up the negro, horses, and money to the civil authorities. If

the charges against him are proven true, then there is no doubt that the

course of General Bragg will be to dismiss him from his staff; but if,

on the contrary, malicious slanders are defaming this ally, he is

Hercules enough and brave enough to punish them. His bravery and

gallantry were conspicuous throughout the Kentucky campaign, and it is

hoped that this late tarnish on his fame will be removed; or if it be

not, that he will."

[44] This is all nonsense--the myrmidons of the law took very good care

to pounce upon Colonel Grenfell when he was in bed and asleep.

[45] If these lines should ever meet the eyes of General Polk, I hope he

will forgive me if I have made any error in recording his adventure.

* * * * *

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