“_Bist du auch gegen uns gewesen?_” she asked, softly, after her first

words of greeting. “You, too, against us?”

“Yes, I was with our army in France,” I replied, watching her expression

closely.

There was regret in her manner, yet, as I had foreseen, not the faintest

suspicion of resentment. The German is too well trained in obedience to

government to dream that the individual may make a choice of his own

international affairs. As long as I remained in the household there was

never a hint from any member of it that the war had made any gulf

between us. They could not have been more friendly had I arrived wearing

the field gray of the Fatherland.

A brief glance about the establishment sufficed to settle once for all

the query as to whether the civil population of Germany had really

suffered from the ravages of war and of the blockade. The family had

been market-gardeners for generations. Ten years before they had been

prosperous with the solid, material prosperity of the well-to-do middle

class. In comparison with their neighbors they were still so, but it was

a far call from the plenitude of former days to the scarcity that now

showed its head on every hand. The establishment that had once been kept

up with that pride of the old-fashioned German as for an old family

heirloom, which laughs at unceasing labor to that end, was everywhere

sadly down at heel. The house was shedding its ancient paint; the

ravages of weather and years gazed down with a neglected air; the broken

panes of glass in the hotbeds had not been replaced; farm wagons falsely

suggested that the owner was indifferent to their upkeep; the very tools

had all but outlived their usefulness. Not that the habit of unceasing

labor had been lost. The family sleeping-hours were still from ten to

four. But the war had reduced the available helping hands and the

blockade had shut out materials and supplies, or forced them up to

prices which none but the wealthy could reach.

Inside the house, particularly in the kitchen, the family had been

reduced to almost as rudimentary a life as the countrymen of Venezuela,

so many were the every-day appliances that had been confiscated or shut

off by the war-time government, so few the foodstuffs that could be

obtained. Though other fuel was almost unattainable, gas could only be

had from six to seven, eleven to twelve, and seven to eight. Electricity

was turned on from dark until ten-thirty, which at that season of the

year meant barely an hour. Petroleum or candles were seldom to be had.

All the better utensils had long since been turned in to the government.

When I unearthed a bar of soap from my baggage the family literally fell

on my neck; the only piece in the house was about the size of a

postage-stamp, and had been husbanded for weeks. Vegetables were

beginning to appear from the garden; without them there would have been

little more than water and salt to cook. In theory each adult member of

the household received 125 grams of beef a week; in practice they were

lucky to get that much a month. What that meant in loss of energy I

began to learn by experience; for a mere three days without meat left me

weary and ambitionless. Those who could bring themselves to eat it might

get horse-flesh in the markets, without tickets, but even that only in

very limited quantities. The bread, “made of potatoes, turnips, and God

knows what all they throw into it,” was far from sufficient. Though the

sons and daughters spent every Sunday foraging the country-side, they

seldom brought home enough to make one genuine meal.

The effect of continued malnutrition seemed to have been surprisingly

slight on those in the prime of life. The children of ten years before,

men and women now, were plump and hardy, though the color in their

cheeks was by no means equal even to that of the grandfather—sleeping

now in the churchyard—at the time of my former visit. Of the two

granddaughters, the one born three years before, when the blockade was

only beginning to be felt in these backwaters of the Empire, was stout

and rosy enough; but her sister of nine months looked pitifully like the

waxen image of a maltreated infant of half that age. The simple-hearted,

plodding head of the household, nearing sixty, had shrunk almost beyond

recognition to those who had known him in his plump and prosperous

years, while his wife had outdistanced even him in her decline.

Business in the market-gardening line had fallen off chiefly because of

the scarcity of seeds and fertilizers. Then there was the ever more

serious question of labor. Old women who had gladly accepted three marks

for toiling from dawn until dark ten years before received eleven now

for scratching languidly about the gardens a bare eight hours with their

hoes and rakes. Male help had begun to drift back since the armistice,

but it was by no means equal to the former standard in numbers,

strength, or willingness. On top of all this came a crushing burden of

taxation. When all the demands of the government were reckoned up they

equaled 40 per cent. of the ever-decreasing income. The war had brought

one advantage, though it was as nothing compared to the misfortunes. For

generations two or three members of the family had spent six mornings a

week, all summer long, at the market-place in the heart of town. Since

the fall of 1914 not a sprig of produce had been carried there for sale;

clamoring women now besieged the gate of the establishment itself in far

greater numbers than the gardens could supply.

The hardship of the past four years was not the prevailing topic of

conversation in the household, however, nor when the subject was forced

upon them was it treated in a whining spirit. Most of the family, like

their neighbors, adroitly avoided it, as a proud prize-fighter might

sidestep references to the bruises of a recent beating. Only the mother

could now and then be drawn into specifying details of the disaster.

“Do you see the staging around our church there?” she asked, drawing me

to a window one morning after I had persisted some time in my questions.

“They are replacing with an _Ersatz_ metal the copper that was taken

from the steeple and the eaves. Even the bells went to the

cannon-foundries, six of them, all but the one that is ringing now. I

never hear it without thinking of an orphan child crying in the woods

after all the rest of its family has been eaten by wolves. _Ach!_ What

we have not sacrificed in this fight to save the Fatherland from our

wolfish enemies! We gave up our gold and our silver, then our nickel and

our copper, even our smallest pots and pans, our aluminum and our lead,

our leather and our rubber, down to the last bicycle tire. The horses

and the cows are gone, too—I have only goats to milk now. Then the

struggles I have had to keep the family clothed! Cloth that used to cost

fifty pfennigs a meter has gone up to fifteen marks, and we can scarcely

find any of that. Even thread is sold only against tickets, and we are

lucky to get a spool a month. We are far better off than the _poor_

people, too, who can only afford the miserable stuff made of paper or

nettles. America also wants to destroy us; she will not even send us

cotton. And the wicked _Schleichhandel_ and profiteering that go on!

Every city has a hotel or two where you can get anything you want to

eat—if you can pay for it. Yet our honest tickets are often of no use

because rascals have bought up everything at wicked prices. If we do not

get food soon even this _Handarbeiter_ government will recommence war

against France, surely as you are sitting there. The young men are all

ready to get up and follow our generals. The new volunteer corps are

taking on thousands every day. _Ach!_ The sufferings of these last

years! And now our cruel enemies expect our poor brave prisoners to

rebuild Europe. But then, _I_ have no right to complain. At least my

dear own boy was not taken from me.”

The son, whom we will call Heinrich, I had last seen as a child in

knickerbockers. Now he was a powerful, two-fisted fellow of twenty-one,

with a man’s outlook on life. Having enlisted as a _Freiwilliger_ on his

sixteenth birthday, at the outbreak of the war, he had seen constant

service in Russia, Rumania, and in all the hottest sectors of the

western front, had been twice wounded, twice decorated with those

baubles with which princes coax men to die for them, and had returned

home with the highest non-commissioned rank in the German army. What

struck one most forcibly was the lack of opportunity offered such men as

he by their beloved Fatherland. In contrast with the positions that

would have been open to so promising a youngster, with long experience

in the command of men, in America, he had found nothing better than an

apprenticeship in the hardware trade, paying forty marks for the

privilege and bound to serve three long years without pay. Like nearly

all the young men in town, from grocery clerks to bankers’ sons, he

still wore his uniform, stripped of its marks of rank, not out of pride,

but because civilian clothing was too great a luxury to be indulged,

except on Sundays. I was surprised, too, at the lack of haughtiness

which I had fancied every soldier of Germany felt for his calling. When

I made some casual remark about the gorgeous spiked helmet he had worn,

with its Prussian and Mechlenburger cockades, which I took for granted

he would set great store by to the ends of his days, he tossed it toward

me with: “Here, take the thing along, if you want it. It will make a

nice souvenir of your visit.” When I coaxed him outdoors to be

photographed in his two iron crosses, he would not put them on until we

had reached a secluded corner of the garden, because, as he explained,

the neighbors might think he was boastful.

“I should gladly have died for the Fatherland,” he remarked, as he

tossed the trinkets back into the drawer full of miscellaneous junk from

which he had fished them, “if only Germany had won the war. But not for

this! Not I, with no other satisfaction than the poor fellows we buried

out there would feel if they could sit up in their graves and look about

them.”

There were startling changes in the solemn, patriarchal attitude toward

life which I had found so amusing, yet so charming, in the simple people

of rural Germany at the time of my first visit. The war seemed to have

given a sad jolt to the conservative old customs of former days,

particularly among the young people. Perhaps the most tangible evidence

of this fact was to see the daughters calmly light cigarettes, while the

sternly religious father of ten years before, who would then have flayed

them for sneezing in church, looked idly on without a sign of protest.

They were still at bottom the proper German _Fräuleins_ of the rural

middle class—though as much could not be said of all the sex even in

respectable old Schwerin—but on the surface there were many of these

little tendencies toward the _Leichtsinnig_.

When it came to discussions of the war and Germany’s conduct of it, I

found no way in which we could get together. We might have argued until

doomsday, were it fitting for a guest to badger his hosts, without

coming to a single point of agreement. Every one of the old fallacies

was still swallowed, hook and line. If I had expected national disaster

to bring a change of heart, I should have been grievously disappointed.

To be sure, Mechlenburg is one of the remotest backwaters of the Empire,

and these laborious, unimaginative tillers of the soil one of its most

conservative elements. They would have considered it unseemly to make a

business of thinking for themselves in political matters, something akin

to accepting a position for which they had no previous training. There

was that to arouse pity in the success with which the governing class

had made use of this simple, unquestioning attitude for its own ends.

One felt certain that these honest, straightforward victims of

premeditated official lies would never have lent a helping hand had they

known that the Fatherland was engaged in a war of conquest and not a war

of defense.

Here again it was the mother who was most outspoken toward what she

called “the wicked wrecking of poor, innocent Germany.” The father and

the children expressed themselves more calmly, if at all, though it was

evident that their convictions were the same. Apparently they had

reached the point where further defense of what they regarded as the

plain facts of the situation seemed a waste of words.

“I cried when the armistice was signed,” the mother confided to me one

day, “for it meant that our enemies had done what they set out to do

many years ago. They deliberately planned to destroy us, and they

succeeded. But they were never able to defeat our wonderful armies in

the field. England starved us, otherwise she would never have won. Then

she fostered this Bolshevismus and Spartakismus and the wicked

revolution that undermined us at the rear. But our brave soldiers at the

front never gave way: they would never have retreated a yard but for the

breakdown at home.”

She was a veritable mine of stories of atrocities by the English, the

French, and especially the Russians, but she insisted there had never

been one committed by the Germans.

“Our courageous soldiers were never like that,” she protested. “_They_

did not make war that way, like our heartless enemies.”

Yet in the same breath she rambled on into anecdotes of what any one of

less prejudiced viewpoint would have called atrocities, but which she

advanced as examples of the fighting qualities of the German troops.

There again came in that curious German psychology, or mentality, or

insanity, or whatever you choose to call it, which has always astounded

the world at large. “Heinie” had seen the hungry soldiers recoup

themselves by taking food away from the wicked Rumanians; he had often

told how they entered the houses and carried away everything portable to

sell to the Jews at a song, that the next battle should not find them

unprepared. The officers had just pretended they did not see the men,

for they could not let them go unfed. They had taken things themselves,

too, especially the reserve officers. But then, war is war. If only I

could get “Heinie” to tell some of the things he had seen and heard;

how, for instance, the dastardly Russians had screamed when they were

pushed back into the marshes, whole armies of them.

I found more interest in “Heinie’s” stories of the insuperable

difficulties he had overcome as a _Feldwebel_ in keeping up the

discipline of his men after the failure of the last great German

offensive, but I did not press that point in her presence.

“No,” she went on, in answer to another question, “the Germans _never_

did anything against women. Those are all English lies! Heinie never

told me of a single case”—“Heinie” was, of course, no more apt to tell

mother such details than would one of the well-bred boys of our own

Puritan society, but I kept the mental comment to myself. “Of course

there were those shameless Polish girls, and French and Belgian hussies,

who gave themselves freely to the soldiers, but....

“Certainly the Kaiser will come back,” she insisted. “We need our

Kaiser; we _need_ princes, to govern the Empire. What are Ebert and all

that crowd? _Handarbeiter_, hand workers, and nothing more. It is absurd

to think that they can do the work of rulers. We need our princes, who

have had generations of training in governing. _Siehst du_, I will give

you an example. We have been _Handelsgärtner_ for generations. Hermann

knows all about the business of gardening, because he was trained to it

as a boy, _nicht wahr_? Do you think a man who had never planted a

cabbage could come and do Hermann’s work? _Ausgeschlossen!_ Well, it is

just as foolish for a _Handarbeiter_ like Ebert to attempt to become a

ruler as it would be for one of our princes to try to run Hermann’s

garden.

“Germany is divided into three classes—the rulers, the middle class (to

which _we_ belong), and the proletariat or hand-workers, which includes

Ebert and all these new upstarts. It is ridiculous to be getting these

distinctions all mixed up. Leave the governing to the princes and their

army officers and the Junkers. We use the nickname ‘Junker’ for our

noble gentlemen, von Bernstorff, for instance, who is well known in

America, and all the others who have a real right to use the ‘von’

before their names, whose ancestors were first highway robbers and then

bold warriors, and who are naturally very proud”—she evidently thought

this pride quite proper and fitting. “Then our army officers are chosen

from the very best families and can marry only in the _gelehrten_ class,

and only then if the girl has a dowry of at least eight hundred thousand

marks. So they preserve all the nobility of their caste down through

every generation and keep themselves quite free from middle-class

taint—the _real_ officers I am speaking of, not the _Reservisten_, who

are just ordinary middle-class men, merchants and doctors and teachers

and the like, acting as officers during the war. _Those_ are the men who

are trained to govern, and the only ones who _can_ govern.”

[Illustration: GERMANS READING THE PEACE-TERMS BULLETINS BEFORE THE

OFFICE OF THE “LOKAL ANZEIGER,” ON UNTER DEN LINDEN]

[Illustration: A CORNER OF THE EX-KAISER’S PALACE AFTER THE SPARTICISTS

GOT DONE WITH IT]

[Illustration: THE GERMAN SOLDIER IS NOT ALWAYS SAVAGE OF FACE]

[Illustration: THE GERMAN’S ARTISTIC SENSE LEADS HIM TO OVERDECORATE

EVEN HIS MERRY-GO-ROUNDS]

I knew, of course, that the great god of class was still ruling in

Germany, but I confess that this bald statement of that fact left me

somewhat flabbergasted. It is well to be reminded now and again,

however, that the Teuton regards politics, diplomacy, and government as

lifelong professions and not merely as the fleeting pastimes of lawyers,

automobile-makers, and unsuccessful farmers; it clarifies our vision and

aids us to see his problems more nearly as he sees them.

Several rambles in and about Schwerin only confirmed the impressions I

had already formed—that the region was hopelessly conservative and that

it had really seriously suffered from the war and the blockade. On the

surface there was often no great change to be seen; but scratch beneath

it anywhere and a host of social skeletons was sure to come to light.

Even the famous old _Schwerinerschloss_, perhaps the most splendid

castle in Germany, showed both this conservatism and the distress of the

past years. The repairs it was undergoing after a recent fire had ceased

abruptly with the flight of the reigning family of Mechlenburg, but the

marks of something more serious than the conflagration showed in its

seedy outward appearance. Yet not a chair had been disturbed within it,

for all the revolution, and guards stationed about it by the Soldiers’

Council protected it as zealously as if they, too, were waiting for “our

princes” to come back again. Almost the only sign of the new order of

things was the sight of a score or more of discharged soldiers calmly

fishing in the great _Schwerinersee_ about the castle, a crime that

would have met with summary vengeance in the old ducal days.

Rumor having it that the peace terms were to be published that

afternoon, I hastily took train one morning back to Berlin, that I might

be in the heart of the uproar they were expected to arouse. At the

frontier of Mechlenburg soldiers of the late dukedom went carefully

through passengers’ baggage in search of food, particularly eggs, of

which a local ordinance forbade the exportation. The quest seemed to be

thorough and I saw no tips passed, but there was considerable successful

smuggling, which came to light as soon as the train was well under way

again. A well-dressed merchant beside me boastfully displayed a

twenty-mark sausage in the bottom of his innocent-looking hand-bag, and

his neighbors, not to be outdone in proof of cleverness, showed their

caches of edibles laboriously concealed in brief-cases, hat-boxes, and

laundry-bags.

“The peasants have grown absolutely shameless,” it was agreed. “They

have the audacity to demand a mark or more for a single egg, and twenty

for a chicken”—in other words, the rascals had turned upon the bourgeois

some of his own favorite tricks, taking advantage of conditions which

these same merchants would have considered legitimate sources of profit

in their own business. Wrath against the “conscienceless” countrymen was

unlimited, but no one thought of shaming the smugglers for their

cheating.

The contrast between the outward courtesy of these punctilious examples

of the well-to-do class and their total lack of real, active politeness

was provoking. A first-class compartment had been reserved for a sick

soldier who was plainly on his last journey, with a comrade in

attendance. Travelers visibly able to stand in the corridor crowded in

upon him until the section built for six held thirteen, and forced the

invalid to crouch upright in a corner. Women were rudely, almost

brutally, refused seats, unless they were pretty, in which case they

were overwhelmed with fawning attentions.

A discussion of America broke out in the compartment I occupied. It

resembled an exchange of opinions on the character of some dear friend

of the gathering who had inadvertently committed some slight social

breach. There was not a word at which the most chauvinistic of my

fellow-countrymen could have taken offense. When I had listened for some

time to the inexplicable expressions of affection for the nation that

had turned the scales against their beloved Fatherland, I discarded my

incognito. My companions acknowledged themselves surprised, then

redoubled their assertions of friendliness. Was their attitude a mere

pose, assumed on the chance of being heard by some representative of the

country they hoped to placate? It seemed unlikely, for they had had no

reason to suspect my nationality. I decided to overstep the bounds of

veracity in the hope of getting at their real thoughts, if those they

were expressing were merely assumed.

“I said I am an American,” I broke in, “but do not misunderstand me. We

_Chileans_ are quite as truly Americans as those grasping Yankees who

have been fighting against you.”

To my astonishment, the entire group sprang instantly to the defense of

my real countrymen as against those I had falsely adopted. All the silly

slanders I had once heard in Chile they discarded as such, and advanced

proofs of Yankee integrity which even I could not have assembled.

“You Chileans have nothing to fear from American aggression,” the

possessor of the twenty-mark sausage concluded, reassuringly, as the

rumble of the train crossing the Spree set us to gathering our traps

together. “The North Americans are a well-meaning people; but they are

young, and England and France have led them temporarily astray, though

they have not succeeded in corrupting their simple natures.”

IX

THUS SPEAKS GERMANY

Lest he talk all the pleasure out of the rambles ahead, let us get the

German’s opinion of the war cleared up before we start, even if we have

to reach forward now and then for some of the things we shall hear on

the way. I propose, therefore, to give him the floor unreservedly for a

half-hour, without interruption, unless it be to throw in a question now

and then to make his position and his sometimes curious mental processes

clearer. The reader who feels that the prisoner at the bar is not

entitled to tell his side of the story can easily skip this chapter.

Vagabonding Through Changing Germany · 第 13 / 28 段