Though ostensibly the same, German prices were vastly lower for visitors

than for the native residents. For the first time I had something of the

sensation of being a millionaire—cost was of slight importance. The

marks I spent in Germany I bought at an average of two for fifteen

cents; had I delayed longer in exchanging I might have had them still

cheaper. In some lines, notably in that we are for the moment avoiding,

prices, of course, had increased accordingly, sometimes outdistancing

the advantages of the low rate of exchange. But the rank and file still

clung to the old standards; it was a hopeless task to try to make the

man in the street understand that the mark was no longer a mark. He went

so far as to accuse the American government of profiteering, because the

bacon it was indirectly furnishing him cost 7.50 marks a pound, which to

him represented, not fifty-seven cents, but nearly two dollars. The net

result of this drop in mark value was that the populace was several

degrees nearer indigence. Those who could spend money freely were of

three classes—foreigners, war profiteers, and those who derived their

nourishment, directly or indirectly, at the public teat. Not, of course,

that even those spent real money. There was not a penny of real money in

circulation in all Germany. Gold, silver, and copper had all long since

gone the way of other genuine articles in war-time Germany, and in their

place had come _Ersatz_ money. Pewter coins did service in the smallest

denominations; from a half-mark upward there were only “shin-plasters”

of varying degrees of raggedness, the smaller bills a constant annoyance

because, like most of the pewter coins, they were of value only in the

vicinity of the municipality or chamber of commerce that issued them.

Even the larger notes of the Reichsbank were precarious holdings that

required the constant vigilance of the owner, lest he wake up some

morning to find that they had been decreed into worthless paper.

But I am getting far ahead of my story. Long before I began to peer

beneath the surface of Berlin I had to face the problem of legalizing

even my superficial existence there. On the very morning after my

arrival I hastened to grim-sounding Wilhelmstrasse, uncertain whether my

next move would be toward some dank underground dungeon or merely a

swift return to the Dutch border. The awe-inspiring Foreign Office

consisted of several adult school-boys and the bureaucrat-minded

underlings of the old régime. A Rhodes scholar, who spoke English

somewhat better than I, greeted my entrance with a formal heartiness,

thanked me for adding my services to the growing band that was

attempting to tell a long-deceived world the truth about Germany, and

dictated an _Ausweis_ which, in the name of the Foreign Office backed by

all the authority of the new national government, gave me permission to

go when and where I chose within the Empire, and forbade any one, large

or small, to put any difficulties whatever in my way. Like a sea monster

killed at the body, but with its tentacles still full of their poisoning

black fluid, Wilhelmstrasse seemed to have become innocuous at home long

before its antennæ, such as the dreadful Herr Maltzen at The Hague, had

lost their sting.

If it had been a great relief to see the eyes of passers-by fade

inattentively away at sight of me in my civilian garb, after two years

of being stared at in uniform, it was doubly pleasant to know that not

even the minions of the law could now question my most erratic wandering

to and fro within the Fatherland. With my blanket _Ausweis_ I was not

even required to report to the police upon my arrival in a new

community, the _Polizeiliche Anmeldung_ that is one of the banes of

German existence. I was, of course, still expected to fill out the

regulation blank at each hotel or lodging-house I occupied, but this was

a far less troublesome formality than the almost daily quest for, and

standing in line at, police stations would have been. These hotel forms

were virtually uniform throughout the Empire. They demanded the

following information of each prospective guest: Day of arrival; given

and family name; single, married, or widowed; profession; day, month,

year, town, county, and land of birth; legal residence, with street and

number; citizenship (in German the word is _Staatsangehörigkeit_, which

sounds much more like “Property of what government?”); place of last

stay, with full address; proposed length of present stay; whether or not

the registering guest had ever been in that particular city or locality

before; if so, when, why, and how long, and residence while there. But

under the new democracy hotelkeepers had grown somewhat more easy-going

than in years gone by, and their exactions in this respect never became

burdensome.

It was soon evident that the man in the street commonly took me for a

German. In Berlin I was frequently appealed to for directions or local

information, not to mention the requests for financial assistance. To my

surprise, my hearers seldom showed evidence of detecting a foreign

accent, particularly when I spoke with deliberate care. Even then I was

usually considered a German from another province, sometimes a Dane, a

Hollander, or a Scandinavian. Now and again I assumed a pose out of mere

curiosity, and often “got away with it.” “You are from ——” (the next

town)? was a frequent query, with a tinge of doubt in the tone. “No, I

am from Mechlenburg”—or some other distant corner of Germany, I

sometimes answered; to which the response was most likely to be, “Ah

yes, I noticed that in your speech.” Now and again I let a

self-complacent inquirer answer for me, as was the case with a

know-it-all waiter in a Berlin dining-room, who proved his infallible

ability to “size up” guests with the following cocksure assumptions,

which he solemnly set down in his food-ticket register: “_Sie sind

Holländer, nicht?_” “_Jawohl._” “_Kaufmann?_” “_Jawohl._” “_Aus

Amsterdam?_” “_Jawohl._” “_Unverheiratet?_” “_Jawohl_,” and so on to the

end of the list. It is never good policy to peeve a man by showing him

up in public. During my first few days in unoccupied Germany I fancied

it the part of wisdom to at least passively disguise my nationality, but

the notion soon proved ridiculous, and from then on, with only

exceptions enough to test certain impressions, I went out of my way to

announce my real citizenship among all classes and under all

circumstances.

You can learn much of a country by reading its “Want Ads.” Thus the

discovery that the most respectable newspaper of Rio de Janeiro runs

scores of notices of “Female Companion Wanted,” or “Young Lady Desires

Protector,” quickly orientates the moral viewpoint in Brazil. In Berlin

under the armistice the last pages of the daily journals gave a more

exact cross-section of local conditions than the more intentional news

columns. There were, of course, countless pleas for labor of any

description, the majority by ex-soldiers. Then came offers to sell or

exchange all manner of wearing apparel, “A REAL SILK HAT, still in good

condition”; “A black suit of real peace-time cloth”; “A second-hand pair

of boots or shoes, such a size, of REAL LEATHER!” “Four dress shirts, NO

WAR WARES, will be exchanged for a working-man’s blouse and jumper,” was

followed by the enticement (here, no doubt, was the trail of the war

profiteer), “A pair of COWHIDE boots will be swapped for a Dachshund of

established pedigree.” Farther down were extraordinary opportunities to

buy _Leberwurst_, _Blutwurst_, _Jagdwurst_, _Brühwürstchen_, and a host

of other appetizing garbage, without meat-tickets. But the most

persistent advertisers were those bent on recouping their fortunes by

marrying money. It is strange if any new war millionaire in Germany has

not had his opportunity to link his family with that of some

impoverished one of noble lineage. In a single page of the _Berliner

Tageblatt_, which carries about one-tenth the type of the same space in

our own metropolitan dailies, there were eighty-seven offers of

marriage, some of them double or more, bringing the total up to at least

one hundred. Many of them were efforts, often more pathetic than

amusing, by small merchants or tradesmen, just returned from five years

in uniform, to find mates who would be of real assistance in

re-establishing their business. But a considerable number aroused

amazement that the wares offered had not been snapped up long ago. I

translate a few taken at random:

MERCHANT, 38 years, Christian, bachelor, idealist, lover of nature

and sports, fortune of 300,000 marks, wishes to meet a like-minded,

agreeable young lady with corresponding wealth which is safely

invested. Purpose: MARRIAGE.

FACTORY OWNER, Ph.D., Evangelical, 31, 1 meter 75, fine appearance,

reserve officer, sound, lover of sports, humorous and musical,

400,000 marks property, seeks a LIFE COMPANION of like gifts and

property in _safe_ investments.

Intelligent GENTLEMAN, handsome, splendid appearance, blond,

diligent and successful merchant, winning personality, Jewish,

etc....

Will a BEAUTIFUL, prominent, artistic, musical, and property-loving

woman in her best years make happy an old man (Mosaic) of wealth?

This modest old fellow had many prototypes. Now and then a man, and the

women always, were offered by third parties, at least ostensibly, half

the insertions beginning, “For my sister”; “For my daughter”; “For my

beautiful niece of twenty-two”; “For my lovely sister-in-law”; and so

on. Some looked like the opportunity of a lifetime:

I seek for my house physician, aged 55, a secure existence with a

good, motherly woman of from 30 to 50....

A neat little BLONDE of 19 with some property seeks gentleman

(Jewish) for the purpose of later marriage....

For a BARONESS of 23, orphan, ¾-MILLION property, later heiress of

big real estate....

If the demands of my calling had not kept me so busy I should have

looked into this splendid opportunity myself; or into the next one:

Daughter of a BIG MERCHANT, 22, ONE MILLION Property....

But, after all, come to think of it, what is a mere million marks

nowadays?

MERCHANT’S DAUGHTER, 24, tall and elegant appearance, only child of

one of the first Jewish families; 150,000 dowry, later large

inheritances....

A young widow (Jewish), 28 years, without property, longs for

another happy home....

Some did not care how much they spent on advertising. For instance:

I SEEK FOR MY FRIEND, a free-thinking Jewess, elegant woman in the

fifties, looking much younger, widow, owner of lucrative wholesale

business, a suitable husband of like position. The lady is of

beautiful figure, lovable temperament, highly cultured,

distinguished, worldly wise, and at the same time a good manager and

diligent business woman. [This last detail was plainly a tautology,

having already been stated in the ninth word of the paragraph.] The

gentleman should be a merchant or a government official of high

rank. Chief condition is good character, distinguished sentiments,

affectionate disposition. No photographs, but oral interview

solicited. Offers addressed, etc....

This last vacancy should have found many suitable candidates, if there

was truth in the violently pink handbills that were handed out in the

streets of Berlin during one of the “demonstrations” against the peace

terms. For the sake of brevity I give only its high lights:

END OF MILITARISM

BEGINNING OF JEW RULE!

Fifty months have we stood at the Front honorably and undefeated.

Now we have returned home, ignominiously betrayed by deserters and

mutineers! We hoped to find a free Germany, with a government of the

people. What is offered us?

A GOVERNMENT OF JEWS!

The participation of the Jews in the fights at the Front was almost

nil. Their participation in the new government has already reached

80 per cent.! Yet the percentage of Jewish population in Germany is

only 1½ per cent.!

OPEN YOUR EYES!

COMRADES, YOU KNOW THE BLOODSUCKERS!

COMRADES, WHO WENT TO THE FRONT AS VOLUNTEERS?

WHO SAT OUT THERE MOSTLY IN THE MUD? WE!

WHO CROWDED INTO THE WAR SERVICES AT HOME? THE JEWS!

WHO SAT COMFORTABLY AND SAFELY IN CANTEENS AND OFFICES?

WHICH PHYSICIANS PROTECTED THEIR FELLOW-RACE FROM THE TRENCHES?

WHO ALWAYS REPORTED US “FIT FOR DUTY” THOUGH WE WERE ALL SHOT TO

PIECES?

These are the people who rule us. [Here followed a long list of

names and blanket accusations.] Even in the Soldiers’ Councils the

Jews have the big word! Four long years these people hung back from

the Front, yet on November 9th they had the courage, guns in hand,

to tear away from us soldiers our cockades, our shoulder-straps, and

our medals of honor!

Comrades, we wish as a free people to decide for ourselves and be

ruled by men of OUR race! The National Assembly must bring into the

government only men of OUR blood and OUR opinions! Our motto must

be:

GERMANY FOR GERMANS!

German people, rend the chains of Jewry asunder! Away with them! We

want neither Pogrom nor Bürgerkrieg! We want a free German people,

ruled by free German men! We will _not_ be the slaves of the Jews!

ELECTORS

Out of the Parties and Societies run by Jews! Elect no Jews! Elect

also no baptized Jews! Elect also none of the so-called

“confessionless” Jews! Give your votes only to men of genuine German

blood!

DOWN WITH JEWRY!

Though it is violating the chronological order of my tale, it may be as

well to sum up at once the attitude of Berlin upon receipt of the peace

terms. Four separate times during my stay in Germany I visited the

capital, by combinations of choice and necessity. On the day the terms

of the proposed treaty were made public apathy seemed to be the chief

characteristic of the populace. If one must base conclusions on visible

indications, the masses were far less interested in the news from

Versailles than in their individual struggles for existence. The talk

one heard was not of treaty terms, but of food. Not more than a dozen at

a time gathered before the windows of the _Lokal Anzeiger_ on Unter den

Linden. They read the bulletins deliberately, some shaking their heads,

and strolled on about their business as if they had been Americans

scanning the latest baseball scores, a trifle disappointed, perhaps,

that the home team had not won. There was no resemblance whatever to the

excited throngs of Teuton colonists who had surged about the war maps in

Rio de Janeiro during August, 1914. One could not but wonder whether

this apathy had reigned in Berlin at that date. Scenes of popular

excitement and violence had been prophesied, but for two days I wandered

the streets of the capital, mingling with every variety of group,

questioning every class of inhabitant, without once hearing a violent

word. A few individuals asserted that their opinion of America had been

sadly shocked; one or two secretaries of Allied correspondents haughtily

resigned their positions. But the afternoon tea at the Adlon showed the

same gathering of sleek, well-dressed Germans of both sexes, by no means

averse to genial chats with enemy guests in or out of uniform. There was

no means of forming definite conclusions as to whether the nation had

been stunned with the immensity of the tragedy that had befallen it or

whether these taciturn beings had some secret cause for satisfaction

hidden away in their labyrinthine minds.

Later I was assured that many had stayed up all night, waiting for the

first draft of the terms. Südermann explained the apparent apathy with,

“We Germans are not like the French; we mourn in the privacy of our

homes, but we do not show our sorrow in public.” Certainly the Boche has

none of the Frenchman’s sense of the dramatic, nor his tendency to

hysteria. An observer reported that the “epoch-making first meeting of

the National Assembly at Weimar opened like the unfinished business of a

butchers’ lodge.” Once, during my absence from the capital, there was a

flurry of excitement, but nothing to cause me to regret my presence

elsewhere. The “demonstration” against the Ally-housing Adlon proved

upon my return to have been serious chiefly in the foreign press. At the

most genuinely German restaurant the head waiter had on the same date

informed an American woman that her guests would no longer be welcome if

they came in Allied uniforms, and that English would not be spoken—then

took her whispered order in that language behind a concealing palm.

Dodgers were dropped from airplanes on the capital one day, protesting

against a half-dozen articles of the treaty, demanding the immediate

return of German prisoners, and ending with the query, “Shall noble

Germans be judged by Serb murderers, Negro states, Japs, Chinese,

Siamese?...” Billboards blossomed out with highly colored maps showing

the territory that was being “stolen” from the Empire. But the populace

seemed to give little attention to these appeals. Ludendorff called the

Allied correspondents together and broke the record for short interviews

with, “If this is what they mean by Wilson’s Fourteen Points, our

enemies can go to hell.” Up to date they have not fully complied with

the general’s proposal. Haughty Richard Strauss declined to waste words

on his Allied fellow-guests at the Adlon. On May 9th several of the

Berlin dailies admitted at last, “We are conquered.” Had their staffs

been more efficient they might have shared that news with their readers

several months earlier. On the third Sunday in May, when the subject

would long since have grown cold among less phlegmatic peoples, I

attended a dozen meetings of protest against the peace terms in as many

parts of the city. Nothing could have been more ladylike, silent,

orderly, and funereal, with the possible exception of the processions

that formed after the meetings were over and plodded noiselessly down

the shaded length of Unter den Linden.

In the first heat of despair a _Trauerwoche_, or week of mourning, was

decreed throughout the Empire, with the cast-iron fist of dreaded Noske

to enforce it, but the nation took it less seriously than its forcible

language warranted:

In the time between May 10th and 16th, inclusive, must be postponed:

All public theater and musical representations, plays and similar

jovialities, so long as there is not in them a higher interest for

art or for science, and unless they bear a serious character.

Especially are forbidden:

Representations in music-halls, cabarets, and circuses, musical and

similar entertainments in inns and taverns.

All joyful public dances (_Tanzlustbarkeiten_), as well as social

and private dance entertainments in public places or taverns.

All dramatic representations and gaieties in the public streets,

roads, squares, and other public places.

Cinematographic entertainments which do not bear witness to the

earnestness of the times; all horse-races and similar public

sporting activities.

Gambling clubs are to close, and to remain closed also after the

16th until further notice.

There was no clause demanding that Germany fast or reduce her

consumption of food to the minimum; she had long been showing that

evidence of national sorrow without the necessity of a formal command.

VII

“GIVE US FOOD!”

Now then, having fortified ourselves for the ordeal, let us take a

swift, running glance at the “food situation” in Berlin. That we have

escaped the subject thus far is little short of miraculous, for it is

almost impossible to spend an hour in the hungry capital without having

that burning question come up in one form or another. The inhabitants of

every class, particularly the well-to-do, talked food all the time, in

and out of turn. No matter what topic one brought up, they were sure to

drift back to that. Their best anecdotes were the stirring adventure of

getting a pound of butter or (’Sh!) where they had found a half-pound of

cocoa for sale. The women were always discussing some kind of _Ersatz_

food, how it tasted or how nearly it comes to tasting, how to make it up

in the least unappetizing manner, where (Now, keep this strictly to

yourself!) one could get it for only a few times at a fair price. It is

curious how one’s thoughts persist in sticking to food when one hasn’t

enough of it. I soon found myself thinking of little else, and I am by

no means a sybarite or an epicurean. Most of Germany was hungry, but

Berlin was so in a superlative degree. No one seemed to escape

comparative famine or to have strength of will enough to avoid

discussion of the absorbing topic of the hour. When I called on

Südermann at his comfortable residence in the suburb of Grunewald he

could not confine his thoughts to drama or literature, or even to the

“atrocious” peace terms for more than a sentence or two before he also

drifted back to the subject of food—how hungry he had been for months;

how he had suffered from lack of proper nourishment during a recent

convalescence; how he had been forced to resort to _Schleichhandel_ to

keep himself and his sick daughter alive.

Loose-fitting clothing, thin, sallow faces, prominent cheekbones, were

the rule among Berliners; the rosy complexions and the fine teeth of

former days were conspicuous by their scarcity. The prevailing facial

tint in the city was a grayish-yellow. “Why, how thin you are!” had

become taboo in social circles. Old acquaintance meeting old friend was

almost sure to find his collar grown too large for him. Old friend,

perhaps, did not realize that sartorial change in his own appearance,

his mirror pictured it so gradually, but he was quick to note a similar

uncouthness in the garb of old acquaintance. In the schoolroom there

were not red cheeks enough to make one pre-war pair, unless the face of

a child recently returned from the country, shining like a new moon in a

fog, trebled the pasty average. Every row included pitiful cases of

arrested development, while watery eyes turned the solemn, listless gaze

of premature old age on the visitor from every side. The newspapers of

Berlin were full of complaints that pupils were still required to attend

as many hours and otherwise strive to attain pre-war standards. It was

“undemocratic,” protested many parents, for it gave the few children of

those wealthy enough to indulge in _Schleichhandel_ an unfair advantage

over the underfed youngsters of the masses. Even adults condoled with

one another that their desire and ability to work had sunk to an

incredibly low level. “Three hours in my office,” moaned one

contributor, “and my head is swirling so dizzily that I am forced to

stretch out on my divan, dropping most pressing affairs. Yet before the

war I worked twelve and fourteen hours a day at high pressure, and

strode home laughing at the idea of fatigue.”

It was perfectly good form in Berlin for a man in evening dress to wrap

up a crust of black bread and carry it away with him. Even in the best

restaurants waiters in unimpeachable attire ate all the leavings—in the

rare cases that there were any—on their way back to the kitchen. I have

already mentioned the constant munching of wretched lunches by theater

audiences. The pretense of a meal on the stage was sure to turn the most

uproarious comedy into a tear-provoking melodrama. Playwrights avoided

such scenes in recent works; managers were apt to “cut them out” when

offering the older classics. The Berliner suffered far more from the

cold than in the bygone days of plenitude. Two or three raw spells

during the month of May, which I scarcely felt myself, found thousands

buttoned up in one and even two overcoats, and wrapped to their noses in

mufflers. The newspapers were constantly publishing “hunger sketches”;

the jokesters found the prevailing theme an endless source of sad

amusement. “There are many children of four who have never tasted

butter,” remarked one paragrapher; “some hardly know what meat is; no

one of that age has ever tasted real bread.” A current joke ran: “How

old is your sister?” “I don’t know,” replied the foil, “but she can

still remember how bananas taste.” A cartoonist showed a lean and

hollow-eyed individual standing aghast before a friend whose waistcoat

still bulged like a bay-window—where he found him in Berlin is a

mystery—with the caption, “_Mein lieber Karl_, you must have been

getting some of that famous American bacon!” Those food-supplies from

America, so incessantly announced, were a constant source both of

amusement and of wrath in Germany, not wholly without reason, as I shall

show before I have done with this distressing subject.

Vagabonding Through Changing Germany · 第 10 / 28 段