(TRUNK ROUTE)
BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY, 65¾ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Bangor= to Carnarvon 9
=Carnarvon= to Llanberis 7½
=Llanberis= to Pen-y-Gwryd 6½
=Pen-y-Gwryd= to Beddgelert 7¾
=Beddgelert= to Penrhyn Deudraeth 7½
=Penrhyn Deudraeth= to Harlech 6½
=Harlech= to Barmouth 11
=Barmouth= to Dolgelley 10
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Bangor to Carnarvon.=--Nearly level and splendid surface.
=Carnarvon to Llanberis.=--Steep hills for 4 miles, then easy
gradients and good surface.
Steady rise through =Pass of Llanberis=.
Remainder of the route splendid surface, with occasional moderate
hills.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Carnarvon.=--The Roman town of _Segontium_; magnificent
thirteenth-century castle; town walls; St. Mary's Church.
Splendid views of the =Snowdon precipices=.
=Llanberis.=--A popular resort consisting of old and new villages;
Dolbadarn Castle; waterfall; slate quarries; mountain railway.
=Pass of Llanberis.=--Cromlech, so called; impressive scenery.
=Beddgelert.=--A picturesque village; Gelert's grave; church;
prettiest part of route.
=Aberglaslyn.=--Pass and bridge; delightful scenery.
=Penrhyn.=--Ffestiniog Toy Railway; Deudraeth Castle, of modern
construction.
=Harlech.=--County town (small) of Merioneth; castle in commanding
position.
=Llanbedr.=--A village; Llyn Cwm Bychan, a wild lake; Roman steps.
=Llanddwywe.=--Church; Cors-y-Gedol cromlechs.
=Llanaber.=--Church, Early English architecture; interesting stone
relic.
=Barmouth.=--Modern watering-place; bridge; panorama walk; magnificent
views of the estuary of the Mawddach.
=Bontddu.=--Water-fall.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.]
[Map: No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.]
The road from Bangor leads past the ~Menai Suspension Bridge~ over the
Straits, once a wonder of the world, but now overshadowed by the Forth
Bridge and others. It was opened in 1826. The total length of the
roadway is 1,000 feet, which is suspended over the water at a height
of 100 feet above the highest spring-tide. The view from the bridge is
most picturesque, but it is hardly worth while to take a car over.
(_Motor-car 2s. toll; foot passengers 1d. each._) The bridge has a
very distinct swing in a high wind. Farther on one sees the ~Britannia
Tubular Bridge~, opened in 1850, and carrying the railway across in two
hollow tubes of enormous strength. No one can accuse this engineering
feat of being beautiful, but it has thoroughly proved its efficiency.
The Anglesey Column forms a prominent landmark at the farther end of
the bridge; it was erected as a memorial of the Marquis of Anglesey
who distinguished himself at Waterloo. The well-known Plas Newydd, the
residence of the present peer, lies adjacent, and there also is the
village of ~Llanfair~, sometimes Llanfair Pwll Gwyngyll, and a full name
of fifty-four letters if one is still more respectful. At Port
Dinorwic vessels load up with slates from Bethesda. The view of the
Anglesey coast is fine at first, but the shores gradually deteriorate
as one reaches Carnarvon, eventually spreading out in mud flats.
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 6--CARNARVON.]
CARNARVON
As the great Roman town and fortress of _Segontium_, the reputed
birthplace of Constantine the Great, the site of a famous feudal
fortress, and the birthplace of the first Prince of Wales, Carnarvon
undoubtedly occupies a unique position in British history, and, as it
still possesses tangible evidences of most of its past record, the
traveller is unwise who passes by without a stay of at least a few
hours' duration, though a few days would be more appropriate.
[Map: GROUND PLAN OF CARNARVON CASTLE.
A. Eagle Tower.
B. Queen's Tower.
C. Chamberlain's Tower.
D. Black Tower.
E. Granary Tower.
F. Well Tower.
G. Banqueting Hall.]
Behind the Royal Hotel, which is passed on entering the town, is a
small rocky knob, easily climbed, called Twt Hill, a coign of vantage
for viewing the Carnarvon mountains, the Straits, Anglesey, and
Carnarvon itself. On a clear day the mountains of Wicklow can be seen,
and as a practical exponent of the ichnography of the town the hill is
of great use. The approach to the castle by a narrow road suddenly
reveals a view of ~Carnarvon Castle~, the vast dimensions of which may
probably be best gleaned by walking down to the slate wharf on the
River Seoint, laving the walls. Here the great height of the walls,
the quality of the excellent stonework, and the general effect of
impregnability, are realized. Returning to the main entrance, the
great arch known as the ~Queen's Doorway~ is passed high up in the
wall; it is the traditional spot whence the infant Edward was shown to
the Welsh chieftains by his father. The drawbridge at one time crossed
the street at this point; an inn now occupies the sight of the
barbican. Within the castle (_admission 4d._) the visitor is at once
struck with the idea that a medieval fortress in its entirety is
presented to the view; there are no crumbling ruins or ivy-clad masses
of fallen masonry, as in the majority of structures of this nature.
This is accounted for by the fact that it belongs to the Crown, and
every stone as it becomes weathered is carefully replaced. The castle
is, in fact, a most interesting study for the archæologist, as
illustrating medieval methods of defence. The Eagle Tower, the reputed
apartment where Edward II. was born, the Queen's Gateway, and other
interesting parts, are pointed out by the keeper. It should be
remembered that the castle is the finest in Europe except one; that it
was built by Edward I. in 1283, heightened by Edward II., garrisoned
by the Royalists in the Civil War under Lord Byron, and after an able
defence surrendered to the Parliamentarians, who ordered its
demolition in 1660, which was fortunately not carried out. ~The Town
Walls~ of Carnarvon are interesting objects to the visitor, as is also
St. Mary's Church, built into the walls, a tower forming the vestry
and the walls two sides of the church.
Of _Segontium_, the great Roman station, but little remains. A portion
of the wall, in bad condition, lies in a narrow lane at the top of the
hill, gained by ascending Pool Street and Tithebarn Street and passing
round to the right, at the back of the Rectory, before reaching
Llanbeblig Church. There are other and better sections to be seen by
making inquiries. In one instance, in the front-garden of a house, it
is some 20 feet in height, formed of beautifully squared stones, and
can be seen from the roadway; by the courtesy of the occupiers it is
quite possible for a nearer view to be obtained. This wall undoubtedly
extended to the river.
* * * * *
The road to ~Llanberis~ leads from Castle Square up Pool Street for a
short distance, when Llanberis Road is entered. The route is to a
certain extent spoilt at first by intrusive chimneys and other
industrial manifestations. Llyn Padarn has also been ruined by
quarries, and probably was never celebrated for scenery. The peak of
Snowdon is seen intermittently upon the right, but the chief mountain
features are Elidyr Fawr (the other side of which has been seen from
Nant Ffrancon) and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet.
~Llanberis~ is a favourite tourists' resort for fishing and
mountain-climbing, and a headquarters for excursions to neighbouring
points.
~Dolbadarn Castle~ is of remote antiquity, and probably existed in the
sixth century, its position making it a fortress of importance. It has
probably seen as much wild work as any castle in Wales, especially
during the Glendower period, being the master-key to the Snowdon
region.
~Old Llanberis~, beyond Llyn Peris, is more picturesque than the new,
and contains a church, which is chiefly interesting on account of the
graves in the churchyard of those who have lost their lives on
Snowdon. The entrance to the famous ~Pass of Llanberis~, between Glyder
Fawr and Snowdon, is very impressive, and the narrowness of the valley
gives it a distinct character compared with Nant Ffrancon. It is
probably the finest mountain defile traversed by a carriage-road in
the Principality. A huge mass of rock, which in falling has produced a
natural cromlech, is to be seen on the left. The summit of Glyder Fawr
appears before the end of the pass is reached, but that of Snowdon is
still hidden. The highest point of the pass is 1,179 feet above
sea-level. The views obtained upon reaching Pen-y-Gwryd are a relief
after the wildness of the route traversed. Moel Siabod to the left
front, with the sugar-loaf height of Cynicht, are prominent features,
while the view down the Gwynant Valley is one of the sweetest
prospects in Wales. At the hotel occurs an abrupt turning to the
right, and a sharp descent leads to Llyn Gwynant, a picturesque lake,
from which a grand view of the rugged slopes of Snowdon is obtained.
Llyn-y-Ddinas, farther on, is scarcely less pleasing. Soon afterwards
BEDDGELERT
is entered, the most romantically situated village in Wales, standing
at the junction of three valleys, leading respectively to Carnarvon,
Portmadoc, and Capel Curig, and surrounded by a grand array of
mountain peaks. It derives its name from the story of Llewellyn's
hound, and means 'the grave of Gelert.' The rude monument said to
have been erected by the Prince in his repentance for the hasty act
may be reached in a few hundred yards from the village. Moel Habog,
2,566 feet, is an easy climb from here. The road to Penrhyn Deudraeth
leads through the romantic Pass of Aberglaslyn, and emerges upon the
far-famed bridge, where the rich colouring of the rocks, full of
exquisite contrasts with the foliage, delights the eye at every
glance. There are many parts of Switzerland that afford similar
visions of beauty and grandeur, but what Pont Aberglaslyn loses in
size it gains in the beauty of its colour. The junction of two roads
occurs here--one to Tremadoc, the other to Penrhyn. The latter drops
to an extensive and dreary plain, Traeth Mawr, across which the road
winds with many a sharp turn. The views of the distant mountains are
very effective, while straight in front the Castle of Harlech becomes
a prominent feature, with the waters of Cardigan Bay to right and
left.
[Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF PENMAENMAWR.
Between Conway and Bangor.]
~Penrhyn Deudraeth~ is a mining village of no interest, except as the
starting-point of the Ffestiniog narrow-gauge railway. Here the river
draining the Vale of Ffestiniog enters a large sheet of water called
Traeth Bach, and, crossing it by a bridge, the Morfa Harlech, an
uninteresting flat, is entered, with the modern Castle of Deudraeth to
the right. Here the road runs between the Morfa and the high country
to the left, until it reaches the little town of
HARLECH
Unless the visitor should happen to be a golfer and a frequenter of
the famous St. David's Club Links, there is practically nothing of
interest in the neighbourhood except the castle, famous in history and
song, which occupies a precipitous elevation in the front of the town.
The entry is opposite the Castle Hotel. (_Admission 4d._) A fortress
of some sort existed as early as the third century, when Bronwen, or
White-Bosomed, the daughter of Bran the Blessed, lived here. About 550
a more substantial pile was raised, but this in turn was replaced by
the present castle, built by Edward I. in 1280, who, however,
incorporated much of the older building in his new fortress. In 1404
it was seized by Glendower, but retaken by the King's troops in 1408.
Margaret of Anjou took refuge in it after Northampton in 1460. Edward
IV., after a long siege, captured it in 1468, and the 'March of the
Men of Harlech' dates from that period. During the Civil War the
castle was alternately in possession of both parties. It is now Crown
property. The magnificent view from the battlements should be seen.
Across the bay, seven miles, is the sister castle of Criccieth, while
the long promontory of Carnarvon, termed Lleyn, forms a bold feature
on the north-western horizon. The two highest elevations on the
promontory are The Rivals, and Bardsey Island is the detached
fragment. To the right there is a line of mountain peaks to Moel Hebod
and the Snowdon heights. Two and a half miles to the south of Harlech
the Island of Mochras lies off the shore, joined at low tide by an
isthmus. It is chiefly visited for its beautiful shells. Near it is
the commencement of the Sarn Badrig, a curious ledge of rocks, bare at
low tide, which runs far out into the waters of the bay. A similar
formation, though of less extent, lies off Aberystwyth. To the
antiquary the country to the east of Harlech is of the greatest
interest; it teems with relics, chiefly prehistoric, such as
cromlechs, stone circles, and dolmens. The far-famed Roman Steps, the
Lake of Cwm Bychan, with its abnormally savage surroundings, the Drws
Ardudwy, all lie in this interesting hinterland, mostly far away from
the main road. Near Llanbedr, however, between the road and the river,
and just short of the village, are two long stones, and another
bearing an Ogham inscription. ~Llanddwywe Church~ is not of any
particular interest, but two cromlechs stand nearly opposite the
King's Head Inn, about eighty yards from the road. The large cromlech
known as Arthur's Quoit is at some distance, near Cors-y-Gedol, the
old seat of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Cors-y-Gedol. The church at
~Llanaber~ is of Early English architecture, and should be visited. An
inscribed stone of much interest and with various decipherings stands
near the north-west door; it was found below low-water mark on the
beach near the church.
BARMOUTH
This rather overbuilt watering-place is situated in a romantic
position at the mouth of the Mawddach, and is remarkable for its
genial winter climate, the town being protected by the high hills
surrounding it. Apart from the visitors who crowd into the town during
the summer season, there are a great number who utilize it as a centre
for mountaineering, antiquarian, geological, and fishing excursions.
The houses are built up the face of the cliff, so that the
chimney-pots of one house are opposite the front-door of the house
behind, and it is possible to diagnose a neighbour's dinner by the
odours thus conveyed. The church is new, but some interesting
geological contortions occur near it. The view from the railway bridge
is one of the most remarkable in Wales. (_The toll is 2d., and one of
the best times for seeing the estuary and its mountainous setting is
at sunset._) High tide helps the scene enormously. A rich and sombre
purple, partly clothing the mountains, melts into exquisite gradations
of green and velvety browns. Cader Idris, upon the right, fills all
that side of the picture; the Arrans furnish the centre distance;
while the outliers of Llawr Lech and Y Garn occupy the left. A
well-known projection on the flanks of Cader is the Giant's Nose.
The Panorama Walk is a favourite stroll from Barmouth; it is commenced
at a terrace bearing the curious name of Porkington, and
direction-boards indicate the route. The path truly deserves the name
it has been given, although the labelling of scenery in this way is
exceedingly distasteful.
THE ESTUARY OF THE MAWDDACH
The road to Dolgelley lies upon the northern shore of this famous
estuary, and for beauty and impressiveness cannot easily be
overpraised. The many windings in the road accentuate its charm,
glimpses, sometimes of entrancing beauty, being frequently presented
to the traveller. Besides the scenery there are no special objects to
be indicated upon the road; just beyond Brintirion, however, a stream
descends which has passed through the gold-field of St. David's, lying
upon the slopes of the mountain above. The ruins of ~Cymmer Abbey~, near
Llanelltyd, remind one forcibly of Valle Crucis Abbey, so charming and
reposeful are the surroundings. It was founded _c._ 1200 by the
Cistercians, and dissolved at the Reformation. The adjoining farmhouse
contains parts of the refectory and abbot's lodging. The eastern
portion of the church is in the best preservation, and upon the south
are a few Early English arches and pillars. The road here turns
sharply to the right to Dolgelley, and, entering this quaintly-situated
little town, the Golden Lion Hotel is found in the market-place near the
church.
LOOP No. 3
DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN, 40 MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Dolgelley= to Penmaenpool 2½
=Penmaenpool= to Arthog 4½
=Arthog= to Llwyngwril 5
=Llwyngwril= to Llanegryn 4
=Llanegryn= to Abergynolwyn 6
=Abergynolwyn= to Tal-y-llyn 3
=Tal-y-llyn= to Corris 4
=Corris= to Machynlleth 5
=Machynlleth= to Cemmaes 6
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Surface to =Llwyngwril= excellent.
Near =Arthog= gradient of 1 in 10.
Near =Friog= gradient of 1 in 14.
Ascent of 1 in 9 near =Abergynolwyn=, and descent of 1 in 6 into the
village.
After =Tal-y-llyn= ascent of 1 in 7, and descent to =Corris= 1 in 16.
Surface generally good to =Machynlleth=.
Then excellent road, but hilly, to =Cemmaes=.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Arthog.=--Waterfalls.
=Llwyngwril.=--A village; remains of Castell-y-Gaer.
=Llanegryn.=--Church with magnificent rood-loft; Bird Rock in
distance.
=Tal-y-llyn.=--A lake near Cader Idris.
=Corris.=--Toy railway; slate district.
=Machynlleth.=--Market town; remains of old Senate-house.
[Map: LOOP 3. DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN.]
The road from Dolgelley passes, with many windings, from the town to
the estuary at Penmaenpool, to which place excursion steamers run
during the summer from Barmouth. Although the scenery upon the south
bank of the Mawddach is not so fine as that upon the north, yet the
mountains of Ardudwy, as the hinterland of Barmouth was anciently
called, present an imposing aspect, and sometimes compose a pretty
picture when seen through the umbrageous foliage which lines the road
on both sides. If the tide be high, the view is accentuated by the
reflections in the broad expanse of water, and singularly beautiful
glimpses are at times displayed. The undulating road, flanked at times
by the universal whitewashed cottages, reaches ~Arthog~, a small village
situated at the base of a finely wooded, diversified ground, about a
mile from which are the Arthog Lakes, and at a short distance from the
hotel a waterfall, of considerable beauty after a heavy fall of
rain, but much attenuated in dry weather. At Friog the slate quarries
are apparent on the left of the road, and a steady rise begins,
leading to an excellent retrospective view of Barmouth, Harlech
Castle, and the Lleyn Peninsula to Bardsey.
[Illustration: SNOWDON FROM TRAETH MAWR.]
LLWYNGWRIL
is a small village, with the Dyffryn River passing through it under a
bridge. Castell-y-Gaer lies upon its banks at a short distance up the
stream, consisting of small masses of broken ivy-clad masonry, of an
unknown fortress so far as history is concerned. Upon the bridge
before mentioned on Sunday evenings after church or chapel the youths
and maidens of the village congregate to sing the sweet Welsh refrains
handed down through long generations, and harmonized with a beauty of
feeling which only a music-loving nation can express. Among the men
singularly rich basses prevail; north of Barmouth, strange to say,
tenors predominate. The route turns abruptly inland beyond
Llangelynin, and the village of
LLANEGRYN,
lying off the main road, but approached by a lane, appears on the
left. It contains a church well worth visiting, inasmuch as the superb
rood-screen is among the finest in the British Isles. It is of early
Perpendicular work, and the loft above is quite perfect except for the
actual rood and the figures of saints. A good roof and an interesting
Norman font should also be noticed.
THE BIRD ROCK
may be seen from this point, an isolated crag of peculiar shape
standing up black and dour against the mountains beyond. The weird
beauty of the landscape can hardly be overpraised. The road leading
straight onwards passes almost underneath the rock, but the main route
to the right descends to the bridge over the river, draining the
Dysynni Valley, and Tal-y-llyn. Here are some sharp turns, but
presently the very narrow road is reached, leading directly to the
lake. Passing another vehicle is not an easy matter. The scenery
increases in beauty as one progresses, the little railway to the right
having scarcely the smallest deteriorating effect upon the valley. The
ruins of Castell-y-Bere, formerly one of the largest in Wales, and
once visited by Edward I., lie in the adjacent valley to the left, to
which the narrow road leads, coming into Abergynolwyn on the left.
TAL-Y-LLYN
Tal-y-llyn is a quarter of a mile in width, and a little over a mile
in length. It lies under Cader Idris, although the summit is not
visible from it; two great craters, however, carved in its rocky
flanks, form a fitting background on the left. In front lies a valley,
by ascending which the ~Cross Foxes Inn~ is reached, and subsequently
Dolgelley. Extravagant praise has been lavished upon the lake by many
travellers, but one misses some essentials to claims of exceptional
beauty. No quality of mystery appeals to the imagination; the lake
does not lie in an appalling neighbourhood of black riven rocks or in
a glen of surpassing beauty. All is open, and the whole is seen at one
vision. Anglers, however, find Tal-y-llyn an ideal spot. At the
farther end of the lake the road, after a branch track to the right by
a cottage has been passed, turns to the right up a steep ascent, from
whose summit a retrospective view of the lake is perhaps the best
obtainable. The road to Corris through Nant Gwgan is pretty, with
occasional waterfalls and stone slides from the shoulders of mountains
towering hundreds of feet above the pass. The rich browns and greens
and subtler shades of grey form charming contrasts of colour.
Unfortunately, the lower end of the pass is disfigured by many slate
quarries. Upper Corris is strongly reminiscent of Bethesda. A monument
is erected here on the left side of the road to Alfred W. Hughes,
F.R.C.S., who died in 1900 of fever during the war in South Africa. A
quarry railway, with a miniature station and a gauge of 2 feet 3
inches, runs by the side of the road. At Corris, which is a
slate-mining town pure and simple, the road trends to the right, and
the view becomes less circumscribed as the vale of Afon Dulas widens
out. When the Dovey Valley is reached a wide expanse of alluvial land
comes into view, through which the river meanders westwards towards
its estuary.
MACHYNLLETH
Machynlleth is a spacious and well-built market town and borough with
two main streets, wide and pleasant, with well-kept shops, thus
forming a marked contrast in that respect to the majority of Welsh
towns. It forms one of the centres of the woollen industry of the
county, and indulges somewhat in the tanning business as well. The
clock-tower is a prominent object; the church has no features of
interest worth recording; the Market-house dates only from 1783, and
of antiquarian curiosities there are but few. An old black-and-white
cottage at the end of Maengwyn Street, which branches off to the left
at the chief main street, has 'OWEN PUGH O VXOR 1628' for 'Owen Pugh
and wife.' The 'O,' however, is baffling as a conjunction. Opposite
are portions of the old Senate-house, the reputed building in which
Owen Glendower succeeded in persuading the nobles and commons to
acknowledge him Prince of Wales in 1402. Upon the hills surrounding
Machynlleth remains occur which appear to indicate that the town was a
Roman station, and coins have occasionally been found to confirm
this. A good road up the Valley of the Dovey leads to Cemmaes, where
the trunk route is again reached.
(_For a description of the road from Cemmaes to Dolgelley, see Section
VII._)
LOOP No. 4
CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG, 49¾ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Cemmaes= to Machynlleth 5½
=Machynlleth= to Talybont 10¾
=Talybont= to Aberystwyth 9¼
=Aberystwyth= to Goginan 7½
=Goginan= to Ponterwyd 4¼
=Ponterwyd= to Dyffryn Castell Hotel 2
=Dyffryn Castell Hotel= to Llangurig 10½
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Cemmaes to Aberystwyth.=--Good surface all the way, but hilly; worst
gradients before and after Talybont, 1 in 13 and 1 in 11.
First 12 miles after =Aberystwyth= splendid surface, then becomes a
little rough and bumpy to =Llangurig=.
There are some steep hills in the neighbourhood of the =Devil's
Bridge=.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Glandovey= (or =Glan Dyfi=).--Entrance for the beautiful Lyfnant
Valley; view over the estuary.
=Aberystwyth.=--A considerable town, with ruins of an Edwardian castle
and the University buildings.
=The Devil's Bridge.=--Grand scenery; the Parson's Bridge; the Punch
Bowl.
[Map: Loop 4. CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG.]
The road down the Valley of the Dovey presents a pretty panorama, but
possesses no particular feature to arrest attention--it is merely a
pleasant drive.
GLANDOVEY
This small place stands at the entrance to the Lyfnant Valley, one of
the most distractingly beautiful little glens in the whole of Wales,
with waterfalls, torrents, and utter wildness of vegetation, and
stern, bleak splendour at the farther end, where Pistyll-y-Llyn
showers its two foaming torrents headlong into the black caldron
beneath. The first cataract met, the Glaspwll Cascade, is a fine one,
but it cannot vie with the more remote example. There is a prettily
situated small castle on the left of the road. The estuary of the
Dovey now appears, and if the tide be at the flood, presents a very
fine prospect. Aberdovey generally has a brig or two lying off the
quay. An extensive salt marsh now comes into view, between which and
the high land the road runs. ~Borth~ lies on the coast of this plain;
its hydro, links, and beautiful sands attract visitors during the
summer. At Tre-Taliesin we are reminded of the grave of Taliesin, the
'King of the Bards' during the sixth century; the pilgrimage to his
grave, which lies about a mile to the left of the road, is a favourite
one from Aberystwyth. Two miles farther on the remains of a British
camp or fort crown the summit of Moel-y-Gaer, close to the road upon
the right; they are remarkably well preserved, and in the
neighbourhood are some Druidical circles. In this district the open
country around is quite park-like in many places; at times, however,
it reminds one of parts of Devonshire. About two miles from
Aberystwyth there is a beautiful vista of Cardigan Bay and the coast
laved by its waters, with the town lying below at the termination of a
long and rather trying hill.
ABERYSTWYTH
Aberystwyth not only boasts of a high antiquity, but also of having
been the commercial centre for the Mid-Welsh counties. The trade has
now dwindled, but as a watering-place it easily holds its own as one
of the most frequented in Wales. The chief points of interest are:
~The Castle~, the ruins of which occupy a position of prominence in the
centre of the town, was built by Gilbert de Strongbow in the reign of
Henry I. It was destroyed by Owen Gwynedd, and rebuilt by Edward I.;
in the Civil War it was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The
grounds are now laid out in pleasant walks, affording fine views of
the coast.
~The University Buildings~ adjoin the castle, and may be termed one of
the finest examples of recent architecture in the Principality. The
general effect of the modern buildings in the town is depressing,
probably owing to the use of the dark Silurian stone, covered with the
universal slate roof.
The town is happy in having an immediate neighbourhood of great
interest to the antiquary and to the ordinary tourist, inasmuch as
many pleasant excursions may be indulged in, such, for example, as the
visits to Strata Florida Abbey, the Monk's Cave, Lyfnant Valley, and
the Devil's Bridge.
The route to Llangurig commences in Aberystwyth, in Northgate Street,
and runs through Llanbadarn. At Pont Erwydd a road leads south to the
Devil's Bridge, fifteen miles, a feature which should not on any
account be missed.
An alternative route, eleven and three-quarter miles to the bridge, is
a part of the direct road to Rhayader.
(_a_) ~First Route, the Pont Erwydd.~--Road level for first six miles,
then rise to 1,027 feet; hilly.
~Llanbadarn.~--Church much restored.
~Bangor~ to ~Goginan~.--Lead-mines have destroyed scenery. A wild country
around Pont Erwydd, where the route turns to the right.
(_b_) ~Alternative Route.~--The direct road to Devil's Bridge commences
in Bridge Street, crosses the harbour, and passes under the railway.
About five miles out Cader Idris appears, twenty miles away to the
left. The view afterwards into the Rheidol Valley is very fine. The
highest point of the road, 989 feet above sea-level, commands a fine
view of the two peaks of Plynlimmon. Castell-fan-Crach is a
prehistoric earthwork.
~The Devil's Bridge~ is situated in what is probably the finest and most
picturesque glen in the British Isles; the approach to it by either of
the roads described gives only a slight idea of its merits. The monks
of Strata Florida Abbey are supposed to have built the arch in the
time of Rufus; the second bridge dates from 1814. The Devil's Punch
Bowl, the Robbers' Cave, and the Falls of the Rheidol, should be seen.
The road to Llangurig from Pont Erwydd leads through a bare valley
containing a large number of abandoned lead-mines--the dead hopes of
thousands of sanguine speculators. The highest point of the road,
1,368 feet, is only two and a half miles from the summit of Plynlimmon
(2,469 feet high), about two miles from the source of the Wye, and
four miles from that of the Severn. The mountain is dull and
uninteresting, being more of a flat spreading lump than a peak, and
has extensive tracts of bog-land and marsh. Descending towards
Llangurig, the Wye is crossed near an inn, and accompanies the road
down the valley, which is cultivated to a certain extent in its lower
portion. At Llangurig the main route is reached between Llanidloes and
Rhayader.
(_For a description of the 30½ miles between Llangurig and Cemmaes,
see Section VII._)