(TRUNK ROUTE)
LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR, 18¾ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Llandudno= to Conway 3¾
=Conway= to Penmaenmawr 4½
=Penmaenmawr= to Llanfairfechan 2¾
=Llanfairfechan= to Bangor 7¾
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
At =Penmaenmawr= a gradient of 1 in 14.
Before reaching =Llanfairfechan= 1 in 12. Surface good.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Conway.=--The suspension bridge by Telford; castle; church; the
medieval town walls and bastions; Plas Mawr, a sixteenth-century
house.
=Penmaenmawr.=--Fine cliff scenery; large British fort above quarries.
=Llanfairfechan.=--A typical Welsh watering-place.
=Aber.=--Falls.
=Bangor.=--Model village of Llandegai; Penrhyn Castle; cathedral;
University buildings.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 5. LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR.]
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 5--CONWAY.]
The road into Conway leads over the suspension bridge built by
Telford, the harmony of the towers with the adjacent castle being a
subject of general congratulation. The entrance to ~the Castle~
(_admission 3d._) is close to the end of the bridge. The structure
possesses the characteristics of Edwardian castles, with more
ornamentation than usual, and was undoubtedly, when perfect, one of
the most magnificent fortresses in the kingdom. It commands, as usual,
one of the roads through the passes leading from Wales--that from the
Snowdon district and Anglesey. The chief points of interest are the
Queen's Tower, with its oratory, the Great Hall, the King's Tower, and
the Broken Tower. It is a matter for surprise that so much remains of
interest in the castle to the present day, which, like nearly all the
castles in Wales, was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The soft
grey colour of the stone, and the warm, rich greens and browns of the
foliage which creeps over them, is exceptionally pleasing; the
delightful views of the surrounding country, and the wonderful
position occupied by the massive walls, all conduce to render Conway
Castle a conspicuous landmark in the recollection of the traveller.
In passing down Castle Street, a late Perpendicular carved stone on
the front of a house on the south side is of interest, and so also is
a quaint building, now a temperance hall, dating from the year 1400.
One of the entrances ~to the Church~ lies in this street. The building
is of the Decorated period, and is of great interest, as it contains a
Perpendicular rood-loft, richly carved, with priests' entrance in
perfect preservation, and a fine screen; a lace humeral and corporal
400 years old, preserved behind glass in the vestry; and a curious
post-Reformation arched tomb on the south side of the chancel.
~The Walls~ of Conway are unique, and form the best example in Europe of
thirteenth-century scientific fortification. The Saracenic influence
engendered by the Crusades is strongly exemplified in their
construction; they are one mile in circuit, about 12 feet thick, with
four gates and many semicircular towers. The feature of piercing the
merlons of the battlements for the discharge of arrows is exemplified
here, as in the castle. This undulating, encircling wall, clothed with
creepers in parts, and presenting picturesque features at every turn,
is a dream of medievalism not often encountered. Upon the quay stands
the reputed smallest house in Great Britain, squeezed into a corner of
the fortifications; one can stand in the road and shake hands with a
person in the upper story.
~Plas Mawr~, or Queen Elizabeth's Palace (_admission 6d._), dates from
1585, and has its chief frontage in Crown Lane. It is a perfectly
preserved example of the architecture of that period, and abounds in
archæological objects of interest. The 365 windows and 52 doors are
not merely a coincidence.
* * * * *
Leaving Conway, the ~Sychnant Pass~ may be traversed if desired; it is a
steep road leading over the mountains to Penmaenmawr, revealing fine
views over the whole district.
The main road leads round the coast via Penmaenbach Point, near Conway
Mountain (upon which are traces of an ancient fort). At ~Penmaenmawr~
one finds a cluster of modern villas, of every size and design,
nestling at the foot of an enormous mass of stone towering up to a
height of 1,550 feet--the well-known Penmaenmawr Mountain. Upon the
summit, which affords a magnificent view for many miles round, are the
ruins of one of the strongest of the early British forts, said to
have accommodated 20,000 men. It is a matter for infinite regret that
this important link with primitive Wales should be doomed to disappear
through the steady advance of the huge quarries now eating into the
hill. These quarries, and the steep tramway-lines up to them, also
very seriously detract from the beauty of the spot. After leaving the
village, the great round hump upon the summit of the mountain can be
plainly seen from the road.
At ~Llanfairfechan~, a small seaside resort, one reaches a typical Welsh
resort--bathing-machines and sands combined with incipient
mountain-climbing.
~The Falls at Aber~ are two miles from the road, and can only be reached
by footpath. The effect of the falls varies greatly with the season;
but the climb up the valley towards Foel Fras is very fine. The road
now passes inland somewhat, and the views of the Straits, of
Beaumaris, and of Puffin Island, hitherto enjoyed, become obscured by
trees. Near Bangor one of the entrances to the park surrounding
Penrhyn Castle is seen upon the right, and here is the Model Village
of Llandegai, interesting to those engaged in the social problems of
the day. Workmen on the Penrhyn estate are housed in pretty cottages
grouped in twos or threes, and placed in gardens. Avenues of trees
shade the village roads, in the middle of which is Llandegai Church
(_the key generally hangs up in the porch_). A tomb with two recumbent
effigies of interest lies within: it came from Llanfaes Priory, but
whom it represents is not known; the armour of the knight and the
costume of the lady point to _c._ 1470. The church is charmingly clean
and well kept. In the village no public-house is allowed, a state of
things which has been productive of the very best results.
The road runs some distance by the park, and at times affords a view
of ~Penrhyn Castle~, the entrance to which is seen upon taking a sharp
turn to the right, when Penrhyn Port is perceived; the bridge leads up
to the gateway. (_Open Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, 10 to 5; 2s.
for one person; 1s. extra for each additional one. Half the proceeds
goes to local hospitals._) The castle is an impressive modern
reproduction of a Norman fortress; the keep reminds one of Rochester,
and is really fine. The interior is worth a visit, if only to see how
Lord Penrhyn has adapted modern luxury to the rough Norman
architecture.
BANGOR
Upon leaving the castle, University College is passed upon the right,
and a drive through the street leads to an open triangular space,
where the cathedral comes into sight. Although the cathedral site has
a rich history, having been occupied by the first church about 525,
yet the present edifice is singularly uninteresting and unimpressive.
This is undoubtedly due to the fact that the Saxon church was
destroyed in 1071, the Norman successor in 1211, and the Early English
building in 1407, when it was reduced to ruins, and remained so for
nearly a century. Consequently, the main part of the present edifice
only dates from Henry VII.'s reign, and the tower from 1532. There is
nothing of interest in the cathedral and but little outside. The
clock, however, upon the occasion of the writer's recent visit, was
worth noting, as the hands, the striking parts, and Greenwich time,
were all at variance. Thus, when the hands pointed to 9.54, Greenwich
time was 9.49, and the clock struck 10.
[Illustration: CONWAY VALLEY.
A peep of the River Conway between Bettws-y-Coed and Conway.]
From the road leading downwards by the cathedral there is a view of
the new University buildings, placed upon a commanding site
overlooking the town. Lower Bangor lies in an amphitheatre of
hills, upon which Upper Bangor is being built, the latter embracing
the fashionable part of the town, and also the goal of pleasure-seekers,
who patronize the sands and the pier.
LOOP No. 2
BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED, 20¼ MILES
(The scenery of these twenty miles is so remarkably impressive that
this short run is strongly recommended. The return journey can be made
via Conway (as described in Section V.), a distance of thirty miles,
or a return by the same road need not be shirked, for the scenery
unfolds fresh glories when travelling in the opposite direction.)
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Bangor= to Bethesda 5¼
=Bethesda= to Llyn Ogwen 4½
=Llyn Ogwen= to Capel Curig 5
=Capel Curig= to Bettws-y-Coed 5½
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
A steady rise from =Bethesda to Llyn Ogwen=, then level for 2 miles.
A long descent to =Bettws-y-Coed=, steep at times. Surface good.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Penrhyn Castle.=--Modern Norman structure (open to public).
=Llandegai Model Village.=--Church, with interesting tomb.
=Bethesda Slate Quarries.=
=Nant Ffrancon.=--Scenery wild and grand.
=Llyn Idwal and the Devil's Kitchen.=--Stern rock and lake scenery.
=Llyn Ogwen.=--A wild lake among the mountains.
=Capel Curig.=--The Cyfyng Falls; grand view of Snowdon.
=Bettws-y-Coed= (see p. 84).--A charming village in a steep leafy
valley.
[Map: LOOP 2. BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED.]
Those who wish to see Wales in all its aspects should on no account
miss the twenty-mile run from Bangor to Bettws. It has been termed the
most impressive pass in North Wales, and poetically referred to as
'Beauty sleeping in the lap of Horror.' To fully grasp the feeling of
the place a walk through it on a mild winter's day is desirable, and
on January 1 of last year one of the writers experienced that
sensation, when flying scud and wild lashing torrents of occasional
rain from whirling masses of black clouds upon the sombre peaks added
a realistic force to the wildness of the scene.
The road leading to Penrhyn Castle and Llandegai is that which should
be taken. At Bethesda a typical slate-quarrying town is reached, with
great 'tips' of refuse encircling it; the continual roar and rattle of
engines, dragging tramloads of slate, high above the roadway, is
punctuated with the occasional boom of the blastings. The quarries may
be visited if desired, when a memorable sight will be witnessed.
There is nothing in this centre of Welsh Nonconformity of antiquarian
interest, and soon a steady ascent leads from it into the Nant
Ffrancon Pass, presumably the Valley of Beavers. Upon the right lies a
range of mountains, each over 3,000 feet in height, and well known to
climbers--Elidyr Fawr, Y Garn, and Glyder Fawr, with Glyder Fach
straight in front, and the giant mass of Moel Siabod behind it. On the
left, Carnedd Llewelyn, 3,484 feet, and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet,
send down great shoulders into the pass, where the winding road, ever
ascending, climbs above the grassy valley lying between the encircling
giants. At Benglog Bridge, where the foaming Afon Ogwen leaps down the
boulders in a torrent, one is nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. Here
the lonely Llyn Ogwen comes into view, but before passing it the short
clamber over rocks to Llyn Idwal should on no account be omitted. The
path begins behind the little inn, and winds by the side of the stream
draining from the lake which abruptly comes into view. This lonely
tarn, with its waters reflecting the black scarp of Glyder Fawr,
seldom or never lit up by the sun's rays, and often lashed into foam
by the fierce eddies sweeping down from the mountains, is the very
embodiment of awe-inspiring impressiveness. Even if the day be
beautiful there is a wild loneliness, which is accentuated by the
legend of Prince Idwal being brutally murdered here by Dunawt at the
instigation of his father, to whom the youth had been entrusted by his
parents.
The terrific black chasm seen in the rocks overshadowing the pool is
named ~Twll Du~, or ~the Black Cleft~, but popularly 'The Devil's
Kitchen.' It is 450 feet high and 100 feet deep, narrowing in places
to 6 feet wide. A foaming cataract of troubled waters pours down,
forming in its fall the hollows at the base termed 'The Devil's Pots.'
Many fatal accidents to climbers have occurred here in ascending to
Llyn Bochlwyd, lying nearly 700 feet higher, on Glyder Fach, last year
(1910) being by no means immune.
South of Lake Ogwen, ~Tryfaen~, the three-headed mountain, is remarkably
impressive. Soon after the lake is passed a descent commences to Capel
Curig, where a magnificent view of the eastern slopes of Snowdon is
obtained between Moel Siabod and Glyder Fawr. The combined waters of
the Llugwy and Nant-y-Gwryd accompany the road as it leads downwards
to Bettws-y-Coed, with the Swallow Falls and Miners' Bridge, as
previously noticed (see p. 84).