(TRUNK ROUTE)
DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG, 48¼ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Dolgelley= to Cross Foxes 3½
=Cross Foxes= to Dinas Mawddwy 7
=Dinas Mawddwy= to Cemmaes 7¼
=Cemmaes= to Llanbrynmair 5¾
=Llanbrynmair= to Carno 6
=Carno= to Caersws 5¼
=Caersws= to Llandinam 2½
=Llandinam= to Llanidloes 6
=Llanidloes= to Llangurig 5
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Steady rise to =Cross Foxes=, then very steep ascent to top of =Cold
Door Pass= (1 in 8), 988 feet high.
Easy descent to =Dinas Mawddwy=.
=Dinas Mawddwy to Carno.=--Undulating, but a rise just before Carno, 1
in 12.
=Carno to Caersws.=--Steady descent, occasionally sharp.
After =Caersws= undulating, with a few stiff hills to =Llangurig=.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Dolgelley.=--Small town possessing little interest in itself.
Surroundings include Torrent Walk, Precipice Walk, Cader Idris, and
innumerable spots to which excursions on foot may be taken.
=Cross Foxes.=--Splendid view from near this inn.
=Dinas Mawddwy.=--A little town, prettily situated; grand view of Aran
Mawddwy, 2,970 feet.
=Talerddig.=--A natural rock arch.
=Caersws.=--Small village on site of Roman station, with visible
earthworks.
=Llanidloes.=--A typical Welsh market town; the church; Van Mines.
=Llangurig.=--The highest village in Wales.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 7. DOLGELLEY TO LLANGURIG.]
DOLGELLEY,
the capital town of Merionethshire, is situated in a wide and fertile
valley of singular beauty at the foot of Cader Idris. The streets are
exceptionally short and irregular. The parish church of St. Mary has
no particular merits; in it is preserved a fourteenth-century effigy
of one of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Nannau. From Dolgelley various
excursions may be made to such places of rare beauty as the ~Precipice
Walk~, cut high up on the face of Moel Cynwch, with views over the
Gaullwyd Valley. ~The Torrent Walk~ is beautified by the rich greens and
browns lavished by Nature on the rocks by the foaming torrent of the
Clywedog. Three fine waterfalls are also to be found in the
neighbourhood, one the well-known Pistyll-y-Cain, while the ascent of
Cader from this town is a very desirable one.
The road from Dolgelley to Dinas Mawddwy is an interesting one, both
by reason of the stiff climbs and also the fine views that accompany
it. The surface is generally inclined to be rough, and upon the
occasion of the writer's recent visit the portion leading down into
Dolgelley was appallingly bad. No doubt this state of things does not
exist now. At the ~Cross Foxes Inn~ the road turns sharply to the left
and mounts to ~Cold Door Pass~, situated upon a bleak moor, with a
splendid view of Cader Idris standing in grand isolation and beauty.
Many mountains suffer by the proximity of other heights, but Cader is
an exception. From the pass the road gradually descends through a
valley, increasing in beauty of verdure and foliage, to Dinas Mawddwy.
DINAS MAWDDWY
This sequestered little town lies in a deep hollow formed by the
junction of two valleys, which discharge the streams they respectively
contain into the Dovey, occupying the main valley. The town consists
of one long street, with the grounds and house of Plas at the
termination. The church is chiefly known for its enormous yews, one in
particular being of really vast dimensions. Dinas Mawddwy is a centre
for anglers, sportsmen, and artists, and, during the season, for
excursionists. From the road a waterfall is a prominent feature.
The road from Dinas Mawddwy follows the course of the Dovey, and lies
in a valley of singular beauty; although the mountains on either side
seldom approach 1,500 feet, yet they possess a beauty of form which
seems characteristic of the district, and are, as a rule, well wooded.
CEMMAES
is a fairly large village lying off the main road, and nestling for
shelter under an outlying crag of the mountains to the west. Shortly
after, at Cemmaes Road, the route turns sharply to the left (by going
straight on one approaches Machynlleth), and looking backwards a fine
array of familiar peaks are seen up the broad valley just traversed.
The road to Caersws is at first very winding, with occasional sharp
dips; pleasant glimpses are obtained into well-wooded glens, where
tributaries of the river flow over their troubled course to join the
Afon Garno, or Carno, and before reaching Carno an extraordinary
stratification of the rocks is revealed, chiefly in the railway
cutting. A natural arch of anticlinal stratification occurs at
Talerddig, with every appearance of being built of masonry. At Carno
the valley becomes open and pastoral.
CAERSWS
stands at the confluence of the River Carno and the Severn, and was a
place of considerable importance in the Roman period. Their influence
is still seen in the straight piece of road just traversed, and in
other sections still to be passed. In the centre of the village the
winter camp is seen, a rampart about 150 yards square, with the road
cutting across the centre. The vallum and accompanying fosse are at
some points well preserved. Several summer camps occupy the
surrounding heights, and many traces of the great Roman road going
east and west are to be discovered. At Moat Lane Junction, which lies
at a short distance to the left of the route, is a rectangular earthen
fort, with a moat adjacent surrounding a high mound, now covered with
firs. At ~Llandinam~ a statue to a certain David Davies stands
prominently by the roadside. The Severn Valley here is wide and open,
with many plantations of firs; the railway runs close beside the river
for miles. In the distance upon the right may be seen the rounded
summits of Plynlimmon, often dark and sombre against the sky.
LLANIDLOES
This is a typical Welsh market town, extremely uninteresting and
remarkably dull, with the depressing style of architecture so
characteristic of the majority of houses in the Principality.
Externally dreary, too, are the places of worship, and one longs for a
board of architects and artists who will supervise new building plans
and save the land from further ugliness, so conspicuous where Nature
is so full of artistry. The town is devoted to the Welsh flannel
industry, and is well known to climbers as the jumping-off point for
the ascent of Plynlimmon, about ten miles to the west as the crow
flies. In the deeply furrowed shoulders of this mountain are the
birthplaces of two famous rivers, the Wye and the Severn. About two
miles north of the town are the Van Lead Mines, once so important; and
upon Van Hill, close to them, occurs a large hill-fort, of which so
many are scattered about this district.
The Market-house is of wood, and decidedly quaint; the church
possesses a ceiling of carved oak, reputed to have been transported
from the suppressed Abbey of Cwm Hir, in Radnorshire; it stands near
the bridge, and is dedicated to St. Idloes. From this point a rather
pretty view is obtained of the Severn uniting with a tributary, the
Clywedog.
The five miles between Llanidloes and Llangurig present occasionally
landscapes reminding one forcibly of English pastorals, if the
mountains can possibly be kept out of sight. The village of ~Llangurig~
possesses a small church of no very great interest; perhaps the chief
fact connected with the place is that the village is the highest in
Wales, for it stands at an elevation of nearly 1,000 feet above the
level of the sea.
(_For the road between Llangurig and Talgarth, see pp. 180-185._)
=LOOP= No. 5
=FIRST PORTION=: TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S--=SECOND PORTION=: ST. DAVID'S TO
HEREFORD
TALGARTH TO CARDIGAN AND ST. DAVID'S, 117¼ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Talgarth (Bronllys)= to Brecon 8¼
=Brecon= to Llandovery 20¾
=Llandovery= to Llanwrda 4¼
=Llanwrda= to Pumpsaint 8
=Pumpsaint= to Lampeter 8¼
=Lampeter= to Newcastle 23
=Newcastle= to Cardigan 10½
=Cardigan= to Newport 12
=Newport= to Fishguard 6¾
=Fishguard= to St. David's 15½
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
To =Brecon= good road, and thence to =Llandovery= splendid.
=Llandovery to Lampeter.=--Very good; to =Cardigan=, steep hills at
times.
=Cardigan to Fishguard.=--A succession of steep hills, mostly 1 in 11
or 12; at =Fishguard= descent and ascent of 1 in 7, dangerous turns;
dangerous hairpin turn on the hill into =Nevern=.
=Fishguard to St. David's.=--Undulating, but good.
=PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE=
=Brecon.=--Very pleasant town; the Priory Church, a massive structure,
chiefly Early English and Decorated; fragments of town walls.
=Llandovery.=--A small and not unpicturesque town; ruins of the
castle.
=Llanwrda.=--A pretty village in fine mountain scenery.
=Lampeter.=--A small town famous as a fishing centre. The college is
the chief building.
=Newcastle Emlyn.=--Small town with beautiful ruins of the castle.
=Cardigan.=--A considerable town; the bridge over the Teifi; the
remains of the castle; church not interesting. Within three miles
are--(1) St. Dogmael's Priory ruins; (2) the beautifully-situated
Kilgerran Castle.
=Nevern.=--Castle ruins; a very interesting church with early
inscribed crosses.
=Newport.=--A small fishing town; the castle.
=Fishguard.=--Goodwick Sands; the harbour; the Pen Caer Peninsula;
fine coast scenery.
=St. David's.=--A small scattered place, scarcely more than a village;
beautiful cathedral; picturesque ruins of the palace. Grand
coast-line, deeply indented.
[Map: LOOP 5 (FIRST PORTION). TALGARTH TO LLANDILO.]
[Map: LOOP 5. TALGARTH TO ST. DAVID'S AND HAVERFORDWEST.]
The road from Talgarth to Brecon presents no special features except
those of picturesque hill and dale, with various streams crossing the
road at intervals.
BRECON
Brecon, the county town of Brecknockshire, lies upon the River Usk,
and was formerly defended by walls and gates. Of the castle,
destroyed as usual during the Civil War, only a few fragments near
the Castle Hotel have survived, and one restored section facing the
river.
~St. Mary's Church~ has suffered so much from bad restoration that
practically nothing of archæological interest remains in it.
~The Priory Church.~--This building is only excelled in Wales by the
Cathedrals of St. David's and Llandaff. It is a massive cruciform
structure, with a central tower, high roof and gables, and an
external aspect almost devoid of ornamentation. The eastern portions
are of Early English work, and the nave was gradually transformed
during the fourteenth century into a Decorated building, with great
octagonal piers, broad arches, and a lofty clerestory. The carved
Norman font should be noticed, and also a number of effigies, one
dating from 1359. An interesting feature are the chapels on either
side of the presbytery, called respectively the Chapel of the Normans
and the Chapel of the Men of Battle, the priory being a cell of Battle
Abbey. The guilds of the town had chapels in the nave, those of the
tailors, weavers, tuckers, and courvisors, or shoemakers, being at the
west end. The domestic buildings still remain, and are attached to the
southern side of the west end of the nave; the building has been
restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. The town is a pleasant one by reason of
the many public walks in and about it, and fine views may be obtained
of the well-known Beacons, some of them approaching 3,000 feet in
height.
* * * * *
The district round Brecon abounds in prehistoric camps and various
remains of the British, Roman, and Saxon occupations. On the road to
Llandovery, for instance, near Llanspyddyd, there is a Roman fort,
and another of unknown origin adjoining, with a Roman road passing
round them. Senny Bridge merely consists of a long street of
uninteresting houses. At ~Trecastle~ there is an important mound, at one
time crowned with a fortalice. From the centre of this village there
is a steep ascent. The River Usk accompanies the road, and appears
under various surroundings--now as a placid stream winding through
meadowlands, and again as a foaming torrent in a deep, tree-shaded
glen. This road through the outliers of the Beacons abounds in
picturesque views of a well-wooded country, backed by the great
swarthy slopes of the hills, called the Black Mountains, although the
dark brown sandstone of which they are composed is the same colour as
the brown heath upon them.
LLANDOVERY
Llandovery consists chiefly of two streets, which converge at the
market-place, and a welcome change is the red wash with which many of
the houses are covered, as a relief from the ubiquitous whitewash of
the rest of Wales.
~The Castle.~--This has nearly disappeared, and only two dismantled
circular towers, with a curtain wall between, remain. They may be
found standing on a grassy knoll near the Castle Hotel. The River Bran
is fairly wide at this point, and passes under a fine bridge.
Upon leaving Llandovery a level crossing has to be negotiated; the
road crosses the River Towy, and then turns sharply to the left.
~Llanwrda~ is a pretty village situated amid lovely pastoral scenery,
and with a fine prospect over the valley. The road here turns at right
angles towards the north, and between this point and the Hafod Bridge
Inn, nearly four miles, the scenery is distinctly and strikingly
beautiful. The small stream, the Dulais, accompanies the route,
passing and repassing under the road. Near Pumpsaint lies a gold-mine,
the Ogofan, and here the River Cothi, beloved of piscators, comes down
from the mountains on its way to the Towy. Between Pumpsaint and
Lampeter high ground is crossed, and a portion of the Sarn Helen Roman
road appears near an inn beyond Pont-ar-Twch. Near Lampeter a village
occurs bearing the ominous name of Rain.
LAMPETER
is one of the best-known fishing centres in Wales, the River Teifi
affording exceedingly good sport. It is a well-built town, situated
in a fertile valley. The bridge over the stream is said to have been
erected in the time of King Stephen, from which the town claims the
name of Lampeter Pont Stephen. The chief building is St. David's
College, theological, designed for those who cannot afford Oxford or
Cambridge. To gain the road for Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan the river
at Lampeter must be recrossed, and the turning taken to the right at
'Gwar Gate' Inn. The route gives a striking view over the valley of
the Teifi, whose extraordinary meanderings and loopings appear as a
huge serpent of silver lying in the broad landscape. The road for a
considerable distance is of Roman construction--the Sarn Helen, but
even those conquerors of the world could not conquer Nature in Wales
and make their roads straight.
~Llanbyther~ is a small and prettily-situated village, with one of the
numerous 'Pen-y-Gaer' camps lying close to the road. The New Quay Road
Station of Llanfihangel-ar-Arth turns off to the right soon after the
Aber-Iar Inn; it is of a second-class character, but saves a
considerable distance and some hills on the way to Llandyssil.
~Llandyssil~ is a romantically-situated village upon the banks of the
Teifi, which here assume a rocky character. Its church is dedicated to
St. Tyssul, who lived in the early part of the sixth century. From
Llandyssil the road south of the river should be taken to Newcastle
Emlyn; it has many awkward turns.
NEWCASTLE EMLYN
is a well-situated town with a long street running at right angles to
the coach-road.
~The Castle~ is a beautifully-placed ruin, with grand views over the
surrounding country. The position of the fortress for natural defence
is most remarkable, for the Teifi here forms a reversed S, and in one
of the loops so made the ruins are situated, the moat thus naturally
formed being one of the most remarkable in existence. The most ancient
building upon the site is reputed to have had a Roman origin; the
second was erected by Sir Rhys ap Thomas (who built Dynevor Castle) in
the time of Henry VII., who frequently resided here, and from it the
town was termed 'New-castle.' The Royalists held it throughout the
Civil War, but after that period it appears to have lapsed into ruin.
Two octagonal towers supporting an arch give entrance to the ruins.
Three miles out from Newcastle Emlyn is ~Cenarth~, a most picturesque
and pleasantly-situated little village upon the border between
Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire. There is a fine salmon-leap close
to the hamlet which is worth seeing. The road thence to Cardigan
traverses a plain, becoming more and more open as the town is
approached, presenting a broad sweep of smiling woods and pasture.
CARDIGAN
The chief centre of interest in Cardigan is undoubtedly the bridge
over the Teifi. It probably dates from the Early English Period, and
has been widened. From this point there is a good view up and down the
river, with the castle and church as prominent features.
~The Castle.~--The small portion hidden away in the ivy at the present
time affords no clue to the former size and importance of this
stronghold. It was founded in the time of Henry II. by the Prince of
South Wales, and after a chequered career was dismantled at the
Commonwealth. The keep is now occupied by private houses.
~The Church~ (_key obtained at one of the cottages in the road_).--The
tower is a fine one, but so far as the whole interior is concerned it
must be confessed that all ecclesiological features of interest have
been obliterated by paint, plaster, and incongruous additions. The
chancel arch, of the Perpendicular period, has a fearful and wonderful
'skew,' which may or may not have been acquired by age.
The town contains a number of old houses, nooks, and byways, but they
are only moderately interesting to the artist, who finds his best
subjects by the bridge and along the river, where sailing-boats and
small steamers reveal the picturesque qualities generally to be found
in small ports. One feature of the town soon attracts attention--namely,
the strong reluctance of the majority of chimneys in Cardigan to keep
to the perpendicular.
~St. Dogmael's Priory~, less than two miles from Cardigan, lies upon the
left of the estuary. The remains are of the Early English period, and
are still considerable. Martin de Tours, who came over with the
Conqueror (not St. Martin), was the founder.
~Kilgerran Castle~, three miles south of the town, and easily reached by
road, stands upon a vast bare rock uplifted above the foaming, eddying
stream rushing round its base, through a narrow channel in the rocks.
Many eulogistic statements have been made concerning this
beauty-spot, but none have overpraised it. The ruins consist of two
towers, with part of a gateway and curtain wall, together with
fragments of massive bastions. It was erected about 1223, when
Marshall, Earl of Chepstow, subdued the Welsh in these districts.
* * * * *
~On leaving for Newport~, the long rise of the road affords, in about
two miles, a remarkably fine view towards the left. With Mynydd
Prescelly for a background, the composition of the foreground and
middle distance by a beautiful vale is singularly impressive, and this
view, with panoramic changes, accompanies the road to Nevern.
The hills seen in the front have massive rocky crags penetrating their
otherwise smooth outline.
~Nevern.~--A very dangerous turn in the road ushers the traveller into
this beautiful little village, embowered in the midst of rich meadows,
orchards, and gardens in a situation which is eminently picturesque
and pleasing. The River Nevern flows through the village, and an
amphitheatre of well-wooded hills encloses it.
~The Castle~ consists of some slight remains of a Norman building,
apparently of a square plan, with bastions at the angles.
~The Church~ is one of the largest in the county, and of very great
interest. It is of Early English architecture, with a Perpendicular
recess forming a chapel upon the south side. In the window-sill of the
south window of this chapel is inserted a long granite stone, with an
Ogham inscription upon it, together with a slab bearing an excellent
example of an early interlaced cross. The church stands in a quite
ideal sloping churchyard, containing a stone cross about 13 feet in
height, with Celtic ornamentation and two inscriptions, not yet
satisfactorily deciphered, as far as the writer is aware. Near the
south porch is a menhir with an inscription.
~The Pentre Evan~ cromlech, one of the finest known, lies about three
miles from Nevern by road, but less than two as the crow flies. A car
may be taken by a third-class road for the greater part of the
distance, but a local guide is necessary.
NEWPORT
Newport is a small fishing town, and also a seaport, upon the estuary
of the Nevern. It is a quiet watering-place, the sea-bathing being
very good, while the surrounding country is of enticing interest.
~The Castle~ was built in 1215, and used by the lords of Cemmaes for
their courts. It was destroyed by Llewelyn, but restored recently by a
descendant of the first baron, but in such strong contrast to the
original Norman architecture that it is very disappointing externally.
~The Church~ has been built near the castle, and partakes somewhat of
its character, being stern and massive in its proportions. The
interior contains nothing of particular interest.
A small cromlech lies within a few hundred yards of the centre of the
town, to which any inhabitant will direct one. Occasional glimpses of
the estuary, with its sands gleaming in the sun, are obtained from the
main streets of the town.
The road between Newport and Fishguard reveals a wide view of the
Prescelly Mountains, the highest in Pembrokeshire, and a favourite
climb for visitors. A most attractive view of Goodwick Harbour, now
generally known as Fishguard, is obtained from the road, or, better
still, from one of the steep meadows on either hand. The great
importance of this harbour in connection with the Atlantic mail and
passenger service has suddenly brought a remote district into
prominence. It is now a familiar sight for the natives to see a huge
liner in this natural harbour take on passengers and cargo, while a
few years ago the waters of the deep inlet had never been churned by
propellers.
The descent into Fishguard of 1 in 7 must be taken with extreme
caution; at the foot of the curving descent a bridge crosses the Afon
Gwaen, and from this the road climbs with equal suddenness and at an
equally trying angle. It is a hill calculated to test to the last
fraction of its horsepower the capacity a car possesses in
hill-climbing. At the top of the ascent the whole bay is spread out in
panoramic fashion, and one can see the new breakwater, still
incomplete, protecting the anchorage.
The road from Fishguard to St. David's passes first across the isthmus
of the Pen Caer Peninsula, whose northern part terminates in Strumble
Head. This district is the happy hunting-ground for the archæologist,
as it literally teems with prehistoric remains--castles, camps, stone
circles, cromlechs, and menhirs, are encountered almost at every step.
Two miles out of Fishguard the turning to the right should be taken at
a puzzling junction of roads. At Mathry some cromlechs occur near the
road, and two miles farther on a wayside cross may be seen. The hills
in this neighbourhood generally have the formation noticed previously
at Cardigan--namely the projection of high tors from their summits,
breaking through otherwise smooth elevations. Nearing St. David's Head
it is obvious that the face of the landscape is gradually changing:
the hedgerows become less in height, and are often mere mounds of turf
or stone; the few trees met with are dwarfed and attenuated, and
invariably lean away from the south-west. As St. David's comes nearer
these characteristics become accentuated, and a barren, wind-swept
moorland appears, almost unrelieved by a single tree.
[Map: PLAN OF ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL.]
ST. DAVID'S
The modern town of St. David's has a sad and desolate air, arising
from the number of abandoned houses to be seen on every hand.
~The Cathedral~ (_nave open free on weekdays, 9 to 1 and 2 to 6; a
charge of 6d. is made for admission to the eastern chapels_) is in a
remarkable situation at the farther end of the town, and practically
bursts upon the view when the edge of the deep hollow it occupies is
reached. In such an exposed corner of Britain it is not surprising
that everything should take what shelter it can find, but to walk
through a rather dreary and wind-swept Welsh village, and to
_discover_ a magnificent cathedral cowering almost out of sight at
one's very feet, is not an everyday occurrence even with the touring
motorist. A score of abbeys planted in sequestered valleys will come
to the mind of anyone who has explored this island, but a
well-preserved cathedral built in a deep and narrow hollow in a rocky
promontory almost takes away what little breath the blustering wind
has left to the exploring stranger. To the left is the old tower
gateway, a weather-worn remnant of the embattled fortifications which
once encircled the monastery. Down below, and approached by a long and
steep flight of stone steps, stands the church, with the square tower
of rather unsatisfactory outline dominating the nave, transept, and
eastern portions of the buildings. Beyond appears one of the most
beautiful ruins that ever gladdened the eye--the remains of one of the
finest episcopal palaces to be seen in the British Isles. Near the
church are also grouped ruins of the conventual buildings, and the
whole forms a scene that indelibly impresses itself upon the memory.
Descending the thirty-nine steps, one reaches the south porch of the
nave. Whatever preconceived ideas one may hold of the beauty of this
part of the church, the sight of the original far surpasses them. The
beautiful Norman pillars and graceful arches, ornamented with the most
elaborate chevron and zigzag mouldings of the Transitional period; the
clerestory springing directly from the dwarfed triforium with which it
is incorporated; and the whole surmounted by a finely-wrought timber
roof, make a picture of the rarest perfection. The colouring is full
of subtle richness, the stonework being of a soft dove-grey combined
with a bluish tinge. The building dates from 1180, the previous church
having been burnt down by pirates. The tower fell in 1220, and was
rebuilt at different periods. The choir and transepts are Early
English, but were added to in the Decorated period. The eastern
chapels are Decorated, as is also the beautiful rood-screen. The
ceiling in the nave dates from _c._ 1500. Many objects of interest are
contained in the building; the shrines of St. David and St. Caradoc,
the tomb of Edmund Tudor, father of Henry VII., the monument of Bishop
Gower, the chapel of St. Thomas à Becket, and the fan tracery of the
roof in Bishop Vaughan's Chapel, are all worthy of careful inspection.
Outside the north wall of the nave gigantic and ill-proportioned
buttresses are seen, built in 1248 to strengthen the nave, which had
suffered from an earthquake; on the opposite side are the remains of
the cloisters of St. Mary's College, begun in 1362.
The exploration of the ruins of the Bishop's Palace should on no
account be omitted, as the lower chambers, the row of clerestory
arches, the beautiful doorways, and the general composition of the
whole ruin, are worthy of the closest attention.
Upon the return to the main street the ancient cross is seen, no less
than 28 feet in height; the steps were restored by Bishop Thirlwall in
1873.
The coast scenery at St. David's is remarkably wild, and the subjects
for the painter in oils or water-colours, or for the less ambitious
who carry a sketch-book and a good soft pencil, are full of particular
attractiveness. To those who are without the desire or capacity to
carry away any permanent impressions of the scenery it will be enough
to lie in a sheltered spot and watch the white waves burst into
columns of spray on the northern end of Ramsey Island.
LOOP No. 5--SECOND PORTION
ST. DAVIDS TO HEREFORD, 132¼ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=St. David's= to Haverfordwest 15¾
=Haverfordwest= to Narberth 10¼
=Narberth= to Red Roses 7
=Red Roses= to Carmarthen 14¾
=Carmarthen= to Pontacothi 6¼
=Pontacothi= to Llandilo 8¾
=Llandilo= to Llangadock 6¾
=Llangadock= to Llandovery 5½
=Llandovery= to Trecastle 9
=Trecastle= to Devynock 3¼
=Devynock= to Brecon 8¾
=Brecon= to Talgarth (Bronllys) 8¼
=Bronllys= to Three Cocks Inn 2½
=Three Cocks Inn= to Hay 4¾
=Hay= to Clifford 2½
=Clifford= to Hereford 18¼
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=St. David's to Haverfordwest.=--This road has a fine surface, but
hills are frequent and all dangerous. They range from 1 in 8 to 1 in
12.
=Haverfordwest to Carmarthen.=--This also has a good surface, but the
hills are numerous. Near Narberth is a hill 1 in 9.
=Carmarthen to Brecon.=--Splendid surface and easy gradients.
=Brecon to Hereford.=--An excellent road without dangerous hills.
=Hay.=--A toll of 9d. must be paid for crossing the river.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Solva.=--A village in pretty scenery.
=Pointz Castle.=--An earthwork.
=Roche Castle.=--Very conspicuous.
=Haverfordwest.=--A pleasant town; the castle, now a gaol; St. Mary's
Church, with ancient wooden carving; the Priory Ruins.
=Narberth.=--A little town with ruins of its castle.
=St. Clears.=--A small port.
=Carmarthen.=--A busy county town; the castle, now the gaol; the
Guildhall; the church; Picton Monument; interesting market.
=Llandilo.=--Small town on high ground; Dynevor Castle; Careg Cennen
Castle.
=Llandilo to Talgarth.=--See Loop 6, Part I.
=Hay.=--A little town on English border; the castle, an interesting
structure (not open).
=Clifford Castle=, birthplace of Fair Rosamond.
=Whitney.=--Beautiful scenery on the Wye; old timbered houses.
=Hereford.=--The cathedral, Norman to Perpendicular; the Shire Hall;
the castle green; interesting old houses.
[Map: LOOP 5 (EASTERN END). TALGARTH TO HEREFORD.]
The distance from St. David's to Haverfordwest is sixteen miles, or,
as the natives naïvely express it, 'sixteen miles and seventeen
hills.' For the switchback contour, however, one is compensated by
the wide views generally obtained when the tops of the hills are
reached, before plunging downwards into the next sudden hollow. The
same characteristics of wild moorland and storm-swept down prevail as
noticed upon the road to St. David's, and it is very interesting to
note how gradually the vegetation develops as the route progresses.
About two miles out the little village of ~Solva~ is passed, lying upon
a romantic inlet in this iron-bound coast, and recalling, to some
extent, the fishing village of Staithes, in Yorkshire. The view over
St. Bride's Bay, with Skomer Island as the farthest point, is
exceedingly fine on a crisp, sunny morning, and shortly after leaving
Solva, Pointz Castle, an earthwork, appears upon the right hand, at a
short distance from the road. The sharp descent to ~Newgate~ brings one
almost within reach of the salt spray at high tide, and the road runs
for a few hundred yards by the sands of that name, giving a glimpse of
some fine coast scenery. There is an example here of a 'rolling
beach,' an accumulation of pebbles being washed over and over upon the
flat land beyond. The road now climbs to the uplands, upon which
stands ~Roche Castle~, a conspicuous landmark for many miles. It was
built in the reign of Henry III., but has later windows inserted.
Garrisoned for the King during the time of the Civil War, it was
captured by the Parliamentarians, but subsequently retaken. Lord St.
Davids, the present owner, has adapted it for modern habitation. Its
position upon a rocky scar, in the midst of a treeless plain, is
peculiarly imposing.
As the road approaches Haverfordwest trees of respectable proportions
begin to appear, no longer leaning towards the north-east.
HAVERFORDWEST
The town of Haverfordwest occupies an important position among those
of South Wales, and is the centre of commerce for a large district.
The streets are narrow and steep, with sharp turnings, probably caused
by the confinement of the ancient fortifications which once protected
the town. Of these practically nothing remains but the shell of a
strong castle, now converted into the county gaol, standing upon a
rocky eminence overlooking the town. Although very impressive when
viewed from a distance or from the River Cleddau in the town, it
hardly repays minute inspection. Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Pembroke,
is said to have built it about 1120, and it became, with that of
Pembroke, one of the most important fortresses in 'Little England,' as
the southern part of Pembroke was termed. It was demolished by order
of Oliver Cromwell.
~St. Mary's Church~ is of great interest, the exterior showing some
fantastic gargoyles, and the nave some fine clustered columns of Early
English work, with a Perpendicular clerestory above. The ceilings
should be noticed, and also the early lancets at the west end. It is a
beautiful church, full of light, with no gloomy corners. There is an
ancient wooden carving of St. Michael the Archangel and the Dragon,
dating from the fifteenth century.
~The Priory Ruins~ are situated a short distance from the southern part
of the town, and are quite picturesque. They are the remains of a
priory of Austin Canons erected in the twelfth century. The very
liberal grants of Robert de Hwlffordd, lord of this town, were
confirmed by Edward III. The remains of the minster are of Early
English work.
The road from Haverfordwest takes a sharp turn to the right upon
leaving the town, and passes over the railway-lines. An isolated
church stands upon a hill to the right, and soon afterwards the woods
surrounding ~Picton Castle~, two miles away, come into view. It is one
of the most ancient residences in the kingdom, having been built by a
De Picton in the reign of Rufus. From that time it has been inhabited
by an unbroken line of proprietors, never deserted, never vacant. The
alterations have not very much affected the baronial style of the
building, and until quite recently it presented the appearance of a
medieval fortress.
At Canaston Bridge the road crosses the eastern Cleddau, which
discharges into Milford Haven, and here, upon the left, at about a
mile, lies the picturesque ruin of ~Llawhaden Castle~, once a residence
of the Bishops of St. David's. The gateway, flanked by two
demi-bastions, forms a very effective picture.
Approaching Narberth, the right-hand road should be taken at Robeston
Wathen. Fir-trees near this point begin to make their appearance,
having been conspicuously absent from St. David's to this point.
NARBERTH
There is a very steep hill in this town, leading to the ruins of a
Norman castle crowning the summit. They are picturesquely covered with
ivy, but the remains now apparent are small when compared with those
visible in the eighteenth century. The roads in the neighbourhood of
Narberth are rather misleading, as so many by-roads enter. Care should
be taken to decipher the sign-boards in many cases before proceeding.
Between Narberth and St. Clears, for instance, there are three roads
at Tavernspite near an inn, and the centre one should be taken.
~St. Clears~ is a long and straggling village at the head of an estuary
of the Taff, and vessels of small tonnage can reach it at high tide.
It formerly possessed a castle and a priory, but both have
disappeared. The town itself is uninteresting. Between St. Clears and
Carmarthen the small hamlet of Banc-y-Felin is particularly pleasing,
with a tributary of the Taff flowing through it.
CARMARTHEN
Carmarthen, the capital of the shire, stands upon the site of the
Roman _Maridunum_, and is the point of convergence of two roads, Via
Maritima and Via Montana. Some parts of the town stand at a
considerable elevation, and present an imposing picture from a
distance. It is an excellent example of an old Welsh town, retaining a
great deal of its primeval quaintness. Upon market-days, when it
swarms with people from the surrounding districts, one seldom hears a
word of English spoken, and the busy scenes witnessed in the bustling
market are mainly transacted in the mother-tongue. Upon entering the
town the Picton Monument is seen, raised in honour of the Peninsula
hero, who fell at Waterloo.
~The Church of St. Peter~ is a large building chiefly in the
Perpendicular style, with a lofty square tower. The interior has been
very carefully plastered so as to hide everything of interest. A Roman
altar, however, may be seen below the tower.
Sir Richard Steele, who died in 1729, the friend of Addison, and the
well-known man of letters, lies buried in this church. In his old age
he came to reside at Llangunnor, near Carmarthen.
~The Castle~, which at one time made Carmarthen a place of strength, was
demolished by the Parliamentarians, and the small portion remaining
has been converted into the county gaol. On leaving Carmarthen the
route towards Llandilo lies upon the Roman road, the Via Montana. It
includes some of the finest scenery in South Wales. There are two
roads running in the valley, with the railway separating them; the
north one is the more picturesque.
At a loop in the road about ten miles out, Middleton Hall, lying due
south, and erected by Sir William Paxton, may be recognized by the
tall tower which forms such a conspicuous landmark. It is known as
~Paxton's Tower~, but was raised by him in memory of Nelson. Almost
directly afterwards, ~Dryslwyn Castle~ comes in sight, a most
picturesque ruin, consisting of one tower and many fragments of walls.
It was besieged in the time of Edward I., when Lord Stafford and other
leaders lost their lives, in undermining the fortress, by the sudden
collapse of the walls beneath which they were operating.
On Grongar Hill, a few hundred yards away to the right, the poet Dyer
composed his poem 'Grongar Hill.' The view from the summit is
charming. On the farther side of the valley can be seen Golden Grove,
the residence of Viscount Emlyn. ~Dynevor Park and Castle~ come into
view upon the right front on reaching the neighbourhood of Llandilo.
The ruins stand upon a lofty mound a short distance from the road, in
the most attractive portion of the park. The first castle was built in
877, and almost rebuilt in the time of William the Conqueror. For
some centuries it was the residence of the Princes of South Wales.
Henry VII. granted it to Sir Rhys ap Thomas, a descendant of the
Princes, and ancestor of the present owner, Lord Dynevor. It was
occupied until 1760. The remains consist of a round keep and a square
tower, commanding a magnificent prospect. (_The ruins are open for
inspection to the bona-fide visitor upon application._)
LLANDILO
Llandilo is a small town perched upon two or three steep hills to the
north of the River Towy, crossed here by a stone bridge of one span.
The streets are narrow, with the public buildings grouped together in
the centre of the town. The church was thoroughly rebuilt in 1848, and
everything of interest then disappeared. If a stay can be arranged at
Llandilo, one of the most remarkable edifices in the kingdom, ~Careg
Cennen~, should be seen. It is a castle almost without a history,
standing upon a rocky height with inaccessible precipices on three
sides, the foremost one over 300 feet in height. Two square towers
guard the sloping ground upon the fourth side, and the main portion of
the castle occupies the summits of the precipices. The situation is
superb and the scenery delightful. The spirit of romance is free from
any of the handicaps usually suffered by the historian, for in this
castle among the clouds, in connection with which history is silent
(except a reputed origin in the thirteenth century at the hands of
Rhys of Wales), the wings of imagination may soar to any height. This
is a site awaiting the novelist in search of a romantic setting for a
story of the Middle Ages. It stands about five miles to the south-east
of Llandilo, overlooking the Vale of the Towy.
Between Llandilo and Llanwrda a large Roman camp can be seen lying
upon Carn Goch, and at the inn where the road turns to Llangadock a
large tributary joins the Towy. In a few miles Llanwrda is reached,
and the loop for St. David's is thus completed. For the road between
Llanwrda and Talgarth, see pp. 143-148.
The route from Talgarth to Hay is winding, and care should be taken to
avoid the numerous roads leading away from the main road, which lies
on the south side of the River Wye, and for a considerable distance is
parallel to the railway.
~Glasbury~, beyond the Three Cocks, is a small village much frequented
by the fishing fraternity; a fine prospect of the Black Mountains is
obtained, and the views generally are among the best to be found in
the district.
The entry into Hay is very pretty, with shady hedgerows and many of
the attributes of English scenery.
HAY
This little town lies upon the borders of England and Wales, at the
junction of the shires of Radnor, Hereford, and Brecon. The word 'Hay'
is allied to 'hedge,' meaning a boundary. It was at one time the main
entry into Wales from England, and naturally, from its position, it
has seen stirring times in the past.
~The Castle~ dominates the town, and is easily reached from the main
street; the entrance is at the back. The architecture now appears to
be a mixture of all kinds, including Tudor, for numerous additions
have been made. A residence constructed out of the old materials
occupies part of the site. Sir Philip Walwyn is supposed to have built
the first castle in 1090, and at the end of the twelfth century
extensive additions were made. Henry III. almost rebuilt it, and in
1233 Llewelyn ap Jorweth stormed it. Thirty years later it was taken
twice, and in the time of Glendower it was burnt. Many other minor
happenings have occurred to lend variety to its existence. James I.
made large additions to the building. The fortifying walls once
enclosing the town have nearly disappeared. The road upon the town
side traverses the former moat. A view across the river gives a
glimpse of a Roman camp near the stream, while to the north-west
stands Clyro, reached by a main road, and enclosed by beautiful woods.
A mound of earth and a moat are now the sole remains of the proud and
lordly Clyro Castle mentioned by Leland.
The ruins of Cusop Castle and Mouse Castle lie at a short distance
from the town, and a favourite excursion is that to the far-famed
~Llanthony~ ~Abbey~, lying amid romantic wilds some ten miles to the
south.
The route to Whitney crosses the river at Hay, passes through Clyro,
and in two miles affords a view of ~Clifford Castle~, standing upon a
bold eminence by the side of the river; it was the birthplace of Jane
de Clifford, the Fair Rosamond of Henry II., and the former residence
of the Lords de Clifford. The scenery in the environment of these
beautiful ruins is most charming. The route from Hay may be taken in
this direction if desired. (_A toll of 9d. has to be paid to cross the
river._)
WHITNEY
The village of Whitney is surrounded by a rich belt of pasture-land
interspersed with clumps of trees, and exceedingly beautiful scenery
is to be found upon the river-banks. There is no ancient church, for
it was washed away in a flood in the early part of the eighteenth
century. The beautiful views seen at Whitney unfold themselves more
and more as one reaches Letton, Merbach Hill upon the right, rising
high out of the ground like a hog's back, giving a characteristic
touch to the scenery. At Letton a particularly beautiful group of
black-and-white timbered cottages stand by the side of the road, and
remind one that English soil has been reached, and that the
never-ending monotony of the Welsh whitewashed cottages has at last
been left behind. At ~Staunton~, on the Wye, a little Early English
church is perched above the village. On the right there formerly stood
a castle, and near it is Moccas Park, the residence of Royalty in
Saxon times. The present owners are descended from Richard, the second
son of King John. After passing Byford a portion of ~Offa's Dyke~ occurs
upon the left, crossing over Mansell Hill. Some quaintly-cut yew-trees
may be seen near the Kite's Nest Inn, and just before entering
Hereford, at White Cross, an interesting cross is noticeable. It was
put up in 1347 by Bishop Charlton to commemorate the disappearance of
the Black Plague, and was restored by Archdeacon Lord Saye and Sele.
[Illustration: HEREFORD CATHEDRAL FROM THE BANKS OF THE WYE.
It belongs mainly to the Early English period, and is built of a
reddish stone.]
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 7--HEREFORD.]
HEREFORD
is a pleasantly-situated town, but if it were not for the possession
of a cathedral the place would not offer any particular attractions
for visitors beyond the charming river scenery common to the Wye
Valley.
Hereford became a separate see in 673, and Putta was the first
Bishop. The first church was rebuilt in a better fashion when the
remains of the murdered Ethelbert were brought to Hereford, but this
pre-Norman structure was burnt by the Welsh in 1055. In 1079 Robert of
Lorraine, the first Norman Bishop, began the cathedral of which much
exists at the present day, using dark red sandstone. The choir up to
the clerestory, the arcades of the nave, and the south transept, are
Norman work of this early date.
The beautiful Lady Chapel, and the clerestory of the choir are Early
English. The north and both the eastern transepts, part of tower, and
the chapter-house, are Decorated. The chantries, sacristy, and a few
other parts, are Perpendicular. The western tower fell in 1786, and
brought down with it the west front and the first bay of the nave.
This disaster accounts for the modern west front. Upon entering the
nave the Norman bays are singularly impressive, especially the carved
capitals. The choir is entered through a metal chancel screen; the
stalls are richly carved, and 'the chair of King Stephen' is preserved
in it. Scattered about in the great building there are probably more
monumental tombs and effigies than in any other cathedral, and this is
especially true with regard to ecclesiastics. Two notable monuments
are those of Bishop Aquablanca (1245-1268), and the shrine of St.
Thomas of Cantilupe in the north transept. A famous archæological
treasure, the _Mappa Mundi_, a map of the world, drawn on one large
sheet of parchment in the thirteenth century by Richard de
Haldingham, is preserved in this building, and may be seen upon
application. The Bishop's Palace is close to the Wye, on the south
side of the cathedral.
~The Shire Hall~, a Grecian Doric building, standing in St. Peter's
Square, was erected in the early part of the last century.
~The Castle Green~ is the site of the vanished Castle of Hereford; it is
one of the prettiest parts of the town. Hereford contains some
interesting houses, and three of them, now used as a bank, may be seen
in the High Town. It was at one time the Butchers' Guildhall, and the
carving upon the outside, as well as the inside, is extremely ornate.