career of the great Nelson. Had it not been for the interposition of a
true friend, the young sailor, who visited here in the _Albemarle_,
man-of-war, at the outset of his great and glorious life, would probably
have been lost to England, and Trafalgar would have been unfought.
Fortunately the insane determination of the young sailor to stay and woo
his _inamorata_, and abandon his ship when it was ordered to India, was
overruled by Davison, his true friend. Whether persuasion or bodily
force brought about the result, after Nelson—having said ‘good-bye’ to
his distinguished and lovely young sweetheart—secretly stole ashore
again, is uncertain. What is known is that he was persuaded to adhere to
his duty—and the world knows the sequel.
[Illustration]
The Parliament Buildings are on the Grande Allée, and a splendid view of
the fine pile may be had from almost any point, so well chosen is the
site. From the main tower of the building the grand view of the superb
surroundings should be seen. The interior corridors and chambers are
very attractive, while the bronze groups and heroic figures of the great
in Canadian history, by Hebért, in recesses along the façade are
splendid in conception and execution. There is an excellent library
where valuable archives of olden times are preserved. Americans will be
interested in the two hickory trees sent from General Andrew Jackson’s
old home in Tennessee and which are growing on the Grande Allée to the
south.
[Illustration]
Spencer Wood, with its leafy, winding roads and shady avenues, is at the
extreme western end of the city’s suburban extension, not far from
Wolfe’s Cove. The delightful, old roomy mansion to be seen there was
formerly used as a Governor-General’s residence. It is now occupied by
the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province.
The Château Frontenac stands on a site of such prominence, and commands
such a glorious view, that few places in the world may compare with it.
The delightful architectural presentment of all that is picturesque and
graceful in old-time buildings, carries us easily back to the fourteenth
century, and even to prior times. From its turrets, dormers, pierced
towers and hundreds of windows a prospect meets the eye that is
uplifting and irresistible in its appeal to those who love that rare
combination, man’s work at its best and nature in her grandest mood. The
panorama of the great river carrying its proudly floating ships to and
from the ocean, the Lévis shore, the citadel, the terrace with its
ever-varying throngs, the old town away below in the giddy depths, the
mountains, the distant country dotted with its white houses, the fleecy
clouds, the shimmering haze and the far away perspective of varied
beauty; all these make a picture upon which the gaze may be intently
turned, without weariness, again and again.
As is befitting, the plan of the structure is irregular, and, in the
olden way, the principal entrance is through an interior court of
considerable size. The Château is built of Scottish brick and grey
stone, roofed with copper. Over the main entrance is a shield bearing
the arms of Frontenac who lived in the old Château St. Louis—as did
Champlain and others—that stood on this very site. In plan it is more
homelike and comfortable than the usual palatial hotel, and there is an
absence of the customary annoying rush, public promenading in corridors,
etc., found in the large hostelries of the American continent. In fact
the general plan is that of a sumptuous and princely castle-mansion of
olden times, sufficiently modernized to give all necessary comforts for
those who stay here. The interior decorations, panel effects,
tapestries, heraldic and symbolic ornamentations, and the artistic
furnishings will commend themselves to all. There is so much to be seen,
that all visitors to Quebec should introduce themselves to the courteous
management and take the opportunity of making a thorough examination of
the Château interior. Do not hurry; avoid the modern detestable rush and
indigestion of sights, scenes and ideas. Make a preliminary tour of all
public places in the building, and then go through it at leisure, making
notes of all the numerous features that in themselves, alone, are an
education.
Laval University is famous for its treasures of art and splendid
library. It has a fine picture gallery and museums. A beautiful and
extended view of the surrounding country may be had from the promenade
on the roof of the building. In the smaller seminary adjoining were
confined the American officers who were taken prisoners at the time of
Arnold and Montgomery’s attack on Quebec in 1775. The buildings contain
many things of interest for the general visitor, and here a whole day
may profitably be spent.
The Ursuline Convent, Hotel Dieu, and Cardinal’s Palace are also places
of great interest. In the chapel of the convent the remains of the brave
Montcalm are interred. Here may be seen the monument erected to his
memory, bearing an inscription prepared by the French Academy. A second
memorial, erected by Lord Aylmer, has an inscription of which the
translation reads:
“Honor to Montcalm!
Fate in depriving Him of Victory
Rewarded Him by a Glorious Death!”
The Hotel Dieu, or hospital, is the oldest institution of the kind in
all America. It was founded in 1689 by the Duchess d’Aguillon, who was a
niece of the great Cardinal Richelieu. Some of the oldest houses in
Canada originally stood in this locality. The Hotel Dieu contains some
very excellent paintings and valuable relics of the early Jesuit
missionaries who were martyred by the Indians. While in Quebec read the
story of this terrible martyrdom, and learn what incredible suffering
was endured by those brave men who assisted in opening up the heritage
we now enjoy so complacently.
The Cardinal’s Palace at the crest of Mountain Hill Street is worthy of
a visit to inspect its fine apartments and reception chamber.
The English Cathedral and the Basilica are the two principal churches of
the city, although there are, of course, many other churches well worthy
of a visit. On the site where now stands the English Cathedral formerly
stood the ancient church and convent of the Recollêt Fathers. The last
survivor was pensioned by the British Government. He was well known for
his wit. It is recorded that he was once asked if he knew that a priest
had arrived in town who was noted for his appreciation of the good
things of the table, but who, ever ready to be a guest, never
entertained others. The good old Father replied. “I saw him to-day,
‘going about seeking whom he may devour.’”
The Cathedral contains splendid monuments, a fine chancel window and a
silver communion service of exquisite design and superior workmanship.
It was a present from King George III. What is frequently seen in
Europe, but rarely in America, is the decoration of a church interior
with old battle-torn regimental flags, and here the former colors of the
69th British regiment are draped over the chancel. In the Cathedral
enclosures once stood a precious elm under which Jacques Cartier is
believed to have assembled his followers on their first arrival in this
part of Canada. It was blown down over a half-century ago. The treasures
contained in the Cathedral will be appreciated by all who wish to
understand Quebec and its past.
The Basilica is venerable with age, dating back to the year 1647. Two
years previous to that, twelve hundred and fifty beaver skins had been
set aside to commence a fund for the building of this Cathedral.
Although it has suffered much from fire and siege, the foundations and
parts of the walls are those of two-and-a-half centuries ago.
Champlain’s ‘Chapelle de la Recouvrance’ was in the rear of the
Basilica, and traces of its walls are still visible. The edifice
contains many beautiful paintings and it is also rich in memorials of
great historic value. In fact many of the works of art seen here are
almost priceless. Rare gifts from the ‘Grand Monarch,’ Louis XIV. may
here be seen; and the building contains enough of interest to occupy a
good portion of a rainy day.
[Illustration]
Many pleasant spots are in the immediate neighborhood of Quebec, and
some that are also intimately connected with events of the past. A drive
through the pretty village of Charlesbourg and beyond, and some four
miles east, may terminate at the ruins of the Château Bigot, known as
Beaumanoir, and also called the ‘Hermitage.’ It was here the tragedy in
connection with the beautiful maiden of French and Algonquin extraction
took place; for it will be remembered that this was the woodland bower
or country house of the infamous Intendant Bigot whose city residence
was the palace at the foot of Palais Hill. The building was originally a
very extensive one, with many secret passages. Until within recent years
the burial place of poor Caroline was marked with a flat stone that had
the letter ‘C’ chiselled on it.
[Illustration]
Indian Lorette may be reached by carriage, or by a short run on the
Quebec and Lake St. John Railway. The country through Charlesbourg is
very pretty, mountainous and splendidly wooded. There is a grand fall of
water at the Indian village where the Lorette courses along a romantic
bed and dashes madly through wild and rocky gorges. Huge masses of stone
have fallen from the cliffs, and in places small trees have gained a
foothold on the apparently bare tops of these rocks. They often assume
odd forms, and particularly so when they grow sidewise from the
perpendicular clefts in the face of the rocky banks. The bottom of the
gorge is rugged and striking. Huge table rocks slant upwards, and the
torrents of water dashing against them rear up and pass over or around
the obstructions. The volume of water precipitated over the fall is very
great, and the whole scene as the eye follows the river bed is most
striking. It is a novel experience to stand or sit on a ledge fronted by
a huge boulder in the middle of the narrow channel or gorge. The Lorette
gaining here in depth rushes down with great force, and as the river is
deflected it rises up a seething pillar of water, so that, at only
arm’s-length the curious sight may be viewed. Nearly everyone feels the
fascination of a waterfall like this, with its ever-changing form and
merry, boisterous song. The romantic descent into the ravine is
something to be remembered—nothing could be wilder or so touched with
Nature’s art. Just above the village is the Château d’Eau, from in front
of which the water is conveyed by conduits to Quebec. The scenery on the
river above the Château is charming, and a boat or canoe trip may be
taken to Lake St. Charles through a most delightful sylvan country.
[Illustration]
The Hurons live in the Indian village. They are industrious and
peaceable, carrying on the manufacture of snowshoes, moccasins, and
basket work, etc. In the height of the summer a good number migrate to
the populous resorts of Murray Bay and the Lower St. Lawrence.
There is a fine view to be obtained by going up the eminence on which
stands the attractive French village of Lorette.
Lakes St. Charles and Beauport, the Jacques Cartier River, Lake St.
Joseph, and the river Ste. Anne are all delightful objectives, and they
are within convenient reach of the city.
Quebec is fortunate in the possession of beautiful environs, and at
Montmorency Falls there is a spectacle of grandeur that in itself is
worthy of a pilgrimage of hundreds of miles to behold. Montmorency is
about eight miles from the city, and it may be reached by carriage over
the St. Charles River and by way of Beauport, or by the electric
railway. The cataract has a fall of over 250 feet. The roar of the
waters, the fascination of the billowy masses of white foam, and the
rainbow-like play of colors in the dashing spray all hold the spectator
spellbound. A fine general view is obtained from the station of the
electric railway; but no adequate conception of the real grandeur of the
sight may be formed until the view is taken from the observation
platforms. A full descent should be made to the bottom of the steps that
have been provided, and the view should be seen from the upper platforms
or terraces as well.
The piers of the old suspension bridge are still standing near the brink
of the falls. The bridge gave way and swept to destruction a farmer and
his family who were driving across at the time.
Another good view of the falls may be obtained by crossing the
Montmorency Bridge to the park on the eastern side of the river.
The natural steps in the solid rock of the river bed, about a mile above
the falls, are no longer visible since the height of the river at that
point has been much increased by the dam below. They were hewn out by
the action of the rushing water of past centuries. While they were
visible thousands of people were attracted there to wonder over the
strange sight. The Fairy River nearby should also be seen, and a walk
through the fields to the power-house will bring a reward in the grand
view of towering rocky banks and the bridal-veil of water that falls
over the height.
[Illustration: STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRÉ]
1. Main Street
2. Pilgrims Buying Relics
3. Church of Ste. Anne de Beaupré
4. Waterworks at Lorette
5. Ste. Anne River
[Illustration]
Near where Montmorency village stands was fought the first battle
between Montcalm and Wolfe, this engagement being the prelude to the
great attack on Quebec that resulted in the death of both illustrious
generals and the permanent addition of Canada to the British Empire.
Governor Haldimand’s fine old mansion, the Kent House, where the Duke of
Kent once lived, is now a delightful hostelry of that ideal kind where a
semblance of home life may be enjoyed amidst restful and picturesque
surroundings. There is a glorious view in every direction from the
breezy highlands, and no one should miss the picture of Quebec seen from
this vantage ground.
The Falls of Montmorency have not the breadth or extent of the
celebrated Falls of Niagara. Their height, however, is much greater; and
the rural and picturesque environment, as well as the graceful and lofty
character of the waterfall, combine in a splendid prospect that has no
equal anywhere.
Of the pleasant recreations in and about Montmorency, the Zoological
Gardens maintained by Holt, Renfrew & Co., of Quebec, afford
never-ending occupation for young and old alike. The numerous animals,
etc., are well arranged for purposes of observation, and the interesting
collection shows animal life in a way that is sure to bring many hours
of enjoyment to those who ramble along the pleasant paths that have been
laid out in various directions.
Everyone has heard of Ste. Anne de Beaupré, the quaint and medieval
village, some twenty miles from Quebec, where the celebrated Church of
La Bonne Ste. Anne is situated to which pilgrimages are ever being made
by the faithful, and which is so full of interest and local color for
those who merely go there to enjoy a pleasant excursion.
If an early riser, it is a good plan to take the electric limited train,
known as the “Fast Pilgrimage,” at 6 a.m. This train stops first at the
Church of La Bonne Ste. Anne and discharges nearly everyone of its
passengers at the pretty little park-station in front of the church. The
train then runs on a few hundred yards to the village of Ste. Anne de
Beaupré, where that particular run terminates. Those who go to worship
will, of course, pass into the church at once in time for the early
mass. As they do so they will not fail to notice that nearly every
passenger goes direct to the church. One or two sightseers—for the hour
is early—will saunter about and enjoy the delightful air and very
foreign surroundings to pass away the time before having a country
breakfast at one of the numerous hostelries with which the neighborhood
is provided.
The Church of Ste. Anne presents a fine appearance, both within and
without. The style of architecture is very pleasing, and the church
stands in the midst of beautiful and well-kept surroundings. The
interior, with many quaint decorations and numerous little chapels, is
especially interesting, while a never-failing attraction for all is the
huge pile of crutches and other appurtenances of bodily suffering or
infirmity that have been thrown away by their happy owners who, it is
stated, were miraculously cured here after making their devotions at the
shrine of the celebrated Ste. Anne.
There is so much that is novel to be seen here—indeed it is the only
place of the kind in the whole continent—so much beauty in the
surroundings, and so much of the grandeur of nature everywhere, that he
whose heart is not actively stirred must be too dead and inert for the
wonderful appeal to move him.
With no stretch of the imagination the district may be called American
Alpine, and almost equal to the Swiss Alps in real interest. In fact
this is an older civilization, and all the accessories of race, customs
and manners, and country lend themselves naturally to the production of
the strangest effects. What quaint narrow streets are here; and see the
overhanging balconies at almost every story of the foreign-looking
houses that are placed at the foot of the steep hills, nestling close to
them.
[Illustration]
Almost every building in the village is a hotel, restaurant, or store
for the sale of relics, curios, novelties and souvenirs. Everything
contributes to the general _fete_ or holiday-like appearance of the
place.
In addition to the constant stream of visitors coming from Quebec, etc.,
by electric trains, special trains arrive at Lévis and Quebec that come
from all parts of the provinces, quite frequently. Sometimes as many as
four and five trainloads will be here in one day—all brought out to the
church by the comfortable electric cars.
There is no better way of seeing the beautiful valley of Beaupré than by
walking from the Church of Ste. Anne to the village of St. Joachim, a
distance of something less than five miles. The high mountain-sides are
liberally wooded with noble trees to near the roadway, where banks that
are clear of wood slope more gradually, and not too steep to climb with
a little effort. The daisies are so profuse in many places that the
effect is nearly like that of a snowstorm. Particularly so where the
young orchard is springing up, the spaces between the rows of trees
being quite white.
No country could be richer in waterfalls of all sizes, from the
precipitous and mighty fall of Montmorency down to the dashing cascade
that starts out from the mountain side. In some places they may be heard
but not seen, until in looking beyond the road a tiny stream is seen to
be making riverwards, and further examination reveals a charming fall in
some leafy copse on the other side of the road. The tones of these
waterfalls, cascades, rivulets and springs are musical, grateful and
soothing to ear and spirit beyond the power of words to describe; while
the water, sparkling and clear, is pure and refreshing to the thirsty
wayfarer.
Wildflowers are very prolific, sweet-scented and a constant joy to the
eye.
[Illustration]
“In the cool and quiet nooks,
By the side of running brooks;
In the forest’s green retreat,
With the branches overhead—”
will be found the iris, violet, trillium, water lily, and, at times,
delicately colored orchids; while crowning the neat white fence of many
a humble cottage festoons of trailing roses gladden the way.
There is a pleasant walk at Château Richer, up to the mill by the bend
of the rippling Rivière à la Puce. The still water above, the dark shade
and the peaceful calm, all repay the little _detour_ necessary to visit
this charming spot. This is surely the land of the waterfall, for the
falls of St. Fereol, Ste. Anne, Seven Falls and the fall of La Puce are
all romantic and wonderfully picturesque. Though difficult of access,
they are like hidden jewels—well worth the effort necessary to reach
them.
[Illustration]
So precipitous are the mountain heights hereabouts, and so well wooded,
that although there are houses on the very brinks above the roadways,
nothing can be seen of many of them from below save chimney tops and
curling wreaths of smoke. A near view of the chimneys shows them to be
of generous size, and in appearance like the old-fashioned stoves or
ranges with the lids off—the orifices, however, being oblong, and not
round.
Bake-ovens of huge proportions are often found in the gardens, under the
protection of a few boards to give shelter to the cook from rain and
sunshine. Owing to frequent subdivisions of the farms, as sons grew up
and had a strip allotted to them by their fathers, some of the fields
are so narrow that there is barely room to allow a horse and plough to
turn.
All along the road the prevailing feature is the Alpine-like scenery,
the towering heights and the white houses nestling in the mountain side
at dizzy heights. Many houses are approached from the road by steps and
a narrow walk between two habitations. On the next rise the same rule
prevails, and so on up to the highest point. There is seldom an attempt
at a hill-side street—it would be useless, because impossible to ascend
without steps. A substitute for steps, however, is sometimes found in a
sloping pathway that passes obliquely from the front of one house to the
rear of the next, and so on until it reaches the top.
The old manner of laying out or planning a house still prevails. The
kitchen generally runs the whole length and breadth of the house—often a
kind of half-basement effect is seen, open in front on the road, but
closed entirely by the hill behind. Here cooking, washing, spinning,
sewing and the general household work of the industrious _habitants_ is
carried on, and here is where dinner is generally served. The whole
activity of indoor life centres here; and so much was this the case in
one house that a dog and five puppies occupied the hearthstone, a cat
sat in the window nipping the green leaves of a plant, and a playful pet
lamb frisked about unrebuked while four people were in the midst of
preparations for serving the dinner. The houses are generally of
substantial construction, and capacious barns are a noticeable feature
in passing along the country side.
[Illustration: Montmorency Falls]
[Illustration: Riviere Ste. Anne]
A favorite trip for those living or staying in Quebec is that on the
ferry steamers to the Isle of Orleans, originally called _Isle de
Bacchus_ by Jacques Cartier on account of the rich clusters of grapes
that lined its shores when he cast anchor near. The island was occupied
by Wolfe at the time of the fall of Quebec. There are many summer
residences here, and it is a favorite place in summer for many who like
to enjoy the cool river breezes.
[Illustration]
The Falls of the Chaudière, not far from the railway junction of that
name, should be seen by everyone coming anywhere near this locality.
They are within easy reach of Quebec by steamboat or railway, being only
about nine miles from the city.
The river has a considerable width and falls gently over the dam in a
long line of silver. Passing then towards its lower channel it falls
beautifully in two, and sometimes three, cascades into the depths below.
There is a great volume of water in motion, and the swelling sound of
the roaring and foaming plunge makes pleasant music. A climb down into
the deep channel is very novel, and the additional views thus obtained
are quite striking. Here is slate enough to supply schoolboys the world
over for many a century to come. There is a good foothold, when once in
the river bed, on the inclined and shelving stratification; and by going
to the edge of the principal fall, the war of waters against rock may be
seen in all its intensity, and, in addition, the seething depths below
will cause a shudder as the full meaning of the word Chaudière, “the
cauldron,” comes to mind.