-----------------+----------------------+-------+-------+---_A Living from the Land

| | row |inches | |

| | | +------+-----+

-----------------+----------------------+-------+-------+------+-----+

Asparagus |Washington, Palmetto |1-yr.- |8-10 | 5 ft.|4 ft.|

| |old |roots | | |

Green bush |Stringless Green Pod, |1/2 pt.|1-1-1/2| 30 | 18 |

| | | | | |

Yellow bush |Currie's Rust Proof, |1/2 pt.|1-1-1/2| 30 | 18 |

| | | | | |

Pole green |Kentucky Wonder, |1/2 pt.|1-1-1/2| 36 | 30 |

Bush lima |Fordhook |1/2 pt.|1-1-1/2| 30 | 30 |

| | | | | |

Pole lima |King of the Garden |1/2 pt.|1-1-1/2| 48 | 36 |

Beets--early |Crosby's Egyptian |1 oz. | 1 | 28 | 15 |

Cabbage--early |Jersey Wakefield, |1 pkt. | 1/2| 30 | 30 |

Cabbage--late |Danish Ball Head, |1 pkt. | 1/2| 36 | 30 |

Cantaloupe |Early Knight, |1/2 oz.| 1 |54-60 | 40 |

Carrots |Chantenay, |1 oz. | 1/2| 30 | 15 |

Celery |Golden Self-blanching,|1 pkt. | 1/4| 36 | 30 |

Corn--early |Golden Bantam, |1/4 lb.| 1 | 36| 30|

Corn--late |Golden Bantam, |1/4 lb.| 1 | 36| 30|

Cucumber |White Spine, |1/2 oz.|1/2-1 | 48-60| 48|

| | | | | |

Eggplant |New York Improved, |1 pkt. | 1/2| 48| 48|

Endive |Green Curled, Broad |1 pkt. | 1/2| 30| 18|

Kale |Scotch Curled, |1 pkt. | 1/2| 30| 18|

Kohlrabi |White Vienna |1 pkt. | 1/2| 30| 15|

Spring and fall|Green-leaved Big Bos. |1 pkt. | 1/2| 18-20| 15|

Summer | N. Y. Salamander |1 pkt. | 1/2| 18-20| 15|

Romaine | G. R. Exp., Trianon |1 pkt. | 1/2| 18-20| 15|

Okra |Perkins Long Pod |1 oz. | 1 | 36| 30|

Onion sets |Yellow Strasburg, |1 qt. | 1 | 18| 14|

Onion seed |Yellow Globe Danvers, |1 oz. | 1/2| 18| 14|

Parsnips |Hollow Crown |1/2 oz.| 1/2| 18| 15|

| | | | | |

Peas |Little Marvel, |1 pt. |1-1-1/2| 30| 30|

Peppers |Ruby King, Pimento |1 pkt. | 1/2| 36 | 30 |

| | | | | |

Potatoes |Irish Cob., Green Mts.|1/2 pk.|3-4 | 36 | 36 |

Pumpkins |Cheese, Small Sugar |1 oz. | 1/2| 60 | 60 |

| | | | | |

Radish |Scarlet Globe, Icicle |1/2 oz.| 12 | 15 | 5 |

| | | | | |

Rhubarb |Victoria |Roots |5-6 | 48 | 48 |

| | | | | |

Spinach--spring |Bloomsdale, Savoy |1/2 oz.| 1/2| 20 | 15 |

Spinach--summer |New Zealand |1 oz. | 1 | 48 | 36 |

| | | | | |

Spinach--fall |Va. Dis., Resist. |1/2 oz.| 1/2| 20 | 15 |

Squash--summer |Gold. Sum. Crookneck, |1 oz. |1-1-1/2| 48 | 48 |

Squash--winter |Boston Marrow, |1 oz. |1-1-1/2| 72 | 72 |

Sweet potatoes |Yel. Jersey |Plants | -- | 36 | 36 |

Swiss chard |Lucullus |1 oz. | 1/2| 30 | 30 |

| | | | | |

Tomatoes--early |Chalk's Early |Plants | 1/2| 48 | 36 |

Tomatoes--late |Matchless, Stone |Plants | 1/2| 48 | 36 |

Turnips |Purple Top Strap. Leaf|1 pkt. | 1/2| 24 | 15 |

Rutabagas |Golden Ball, |1 pkt. | 1/2| 24 | 15 |

|Lg. Island Improved |1 pkt. | 1/2| 24 | 15 |

-----------------+----------------------+-------+-------+------+-----+

--------+--------+------------+-------------+-------

| | | |

| | | |Average

Distance|Time of | | Average | days

between |planting| Time of | yield | from

plants |seed | harvest | 100-foot | seed

in row, |outdoors| | row | to

inches | | | |harvest

| | | |

--------+--------+------------+-------------+-------

16 | -- |Spring- |15 2-lb. |2 yr.

| |July 1 |bunches |

| | | |

3 |Apr 15 |June 20 |2 bu. | 40-65

|July 15 |Sept. 15- | |

| | Frost | |

3 |Apr. 15 |June 20 |2 bu. | 50-70

|July 15 |Sept. 15- |2-2-1/2 bu. | 95-100

| | Frost | |

10-30 |May 1-20|Aug. 15 |2-2-1/2 bu. | 95-100

| | | |

10 |May 1- |Aug. 1-Frost|2 bu. |110-120

|July | | |

36 |May 15 |Aug. 1-Frost|2 bu. |110-120

2-3 |Apr. 1 |July 15 |2-2/1/2 bu. | 45-60

|July 20 |Nov. 15 | |

18 |Apr. 15 |July-Sept. |45-55 heads |100-120

| | | |

18 |July 1 |Oct.-Nov. |45-55 heads |120-150

| | | |

48 hill |May 15 |Aug. 10 |6-8 fruits | 90-1l0

| | |per hill |

1-1-1/2 |Apr. 1 |Aug. 1 |2 bu. | 65-90

|July 1 |Nov. | |

6 |June 1 |Sept. 15 |200 stalks |120-150

| | | |

15 or 30|May 1 |July 12 |4 doz. ears | 60-75

hill | | | |

18 or 30|June 15 |Aug. 20- |4 doz. ears | 75-90

hill |July 1 | Frost | |

48 hill |May 15 |July 10 |200 cucumbers| 60-75

| |Aug. 20 |1-1/2 bu. |

| | | pickles |

48|June 1 | Aug. 20- |125 fruits |140-160

| | Frost | |

56|Apr. 15 |June 15 |65 plants | 60-90

|July 15 |Oct.-Nov. | |

18|Apr. 1 |June 1 |60 bu. | 55-65

|Sept. 1 |Apr. | |

3-4|Apr. 15 |June 15 |2 bu. | 50-70

|Apr. 15-|Aug. 15-Oct.| |

14-18|June 1 |Oct. |70 head | 70-90

14-18|May 15 |June 1 |70 head | 70-90

14-18|Aug. 1 |July-Aug. |70 head | 70-90

10-15|May 15 |Aug. 10 |900-1000 pod | 90-140

1|Apr 1 |May 15 |140 bunches | 45-75

| | | |

1|Apr. 1 |Aug. 20 |1-1/2-2 bu. |110-130

| | | |

3-4|Apr. 1- |Sept.-Nov. |2 bu. |140-160

| May 15 | | |

2|Apr. 1- |June 10-July|2 bu. | 45-70

| 15 | | (in pods) |

18-20 |May 15 |Aug. 15- |5 bu. |125-150

| | Frost |(6 per plant)|

14 |Apr. 15 |July 1 |3 bu. | 90-120

48 |May 15 |Sept. 1- |75 pumpkins | 70- 90

| | Frost | |

1 |Apr. 15 |June 1 |100 bunches | 30-65

|Sept. 1 |Oct. 25 | |

48 |Mar.-Apr|May-Nov. |8-10 stalks | 1 yr.

| | |plant |

2 |Mar. |May |3 bu. | 45

36 |Apr. 15 |June 15 |Cut all | 65-120

| | |summer |

2 |Aug. 15-|Oct.-Nov. |3 bu. | 50-60

|Sept. 15| | |

48 |May 1 |July 10 |136 squash | 60-70

| | | |

48 |June 1 |Oct. |75 squash |120-130

| | | |

18 |May 15 |Oct. 1-10 |3 bu. |140-150

6 |Apr. 15 |June 5- |Pull until | 50

| | Frost | frost |

36 |May 15 |July 10-Aug.|4 bu. |120-150

| | | |

36 |June 1 |Aug. l-Frost|4 bu. |150-170

2 |Apr. 1 |June 1 |2 bu. | 45-70

2 |Aug. 1 |Oct.-Nov. |2 bu. | 45-70

--------+--------+------------+-------------+-------

TABLE II

AMOUNT OF SEED TO PURCHASE FOR FAMILY OF SIX[2]

-------------------------+------------------------

Vegetable | Amount to purchase

-------------------------+------------------------

Asparagus | 66 plants

Beans, snap (in variety) | 2 to 3 pounds

Beans, bush lima | 1 pound

Beet | 4 ounces

Cabbage: |

Early | 1 packet

Late | 1/2 ounce

Carrot | 1 ounce

Cauliflower | 1 packet

Celery | 1 packet

Corn, sweet | 2 pounds

Cucumber | 1 ounce

Eggplant | 1 packet

Kale | 1 ounce

Lettuce | 1/2 ounce

Muskmelon | 1 ounce

Onion sets | 4 quarts

Onion seed | 1 ounce

Peas | 2 to 4 pounds

Parsley | 1 packet

Parsnip | 1 ounce

Radish (in variety) | 2 ounces

Rhubarb | 20 plants

Salsify | 1 ounce

Spinach | 1 pound

New Zealand spinach | 1 ounce

Summer pumpkin | 1 ounce

Winter pumpkin | 2 ounces

Squash | 2 ounces

Tomatoes | 1 packet or 50 plants

Turnip | 4 ounces

Rutabaga | 1 ounce

Watermelon | 2 ounces

-------------------------+------------------------

_Planning and Operating a Home Garden._--In planning the home vegetable

garden there are a few essential points to be kept in mind. The time to

plan the garden is in winter when adequate consideration can be given to

the selection of those vegetables that the family likes best and can use

in large amounts. Seeds required should be ordered early for the entire

garden. By drawing the plan of the garden on paper and following it, the

procedure is simplified and the most efficient results attained.

Vegetables should be planted in rows rather than in beds, and those

maturing at about the same time should be grouped together to facilitate

succession planting. After the early-maturing crops have been harvested,

other crops can be sown on the same area, thus fully utilizing the land

throughout the growing season. Perennial crops, including asparagus and

rhubarb, should be kept by themselves.

A practical farmer wanting to express perfection in soil preparation is

apt to say, "It is just like a garden." This implies good fertility,

optimum moisture conditions and proper tilth. To attain these conditions

in garden soil it is desirable to cover it with strawy manure some time

previous to plowing, in order that rains may carry the soluble fertility

elements into the surface inches of the soil. In the early spring a

thorough job of plowing or spading should be done to reasonable depth,

completely covering the surface straw or dead plants. Every two or three

years lime should be applied after plowing and worked into the top soil at

the rate of 1 pound of hydrated lime to every 25 square feet of soil.

_Fertilizing and Culture._--The fertility supplied through application of

manure should be supplemented by the use of commercial fertilizer. This

can be purchased in burlap bags from local supply agencies and should

contain about 5 per cent nitrogen, 8 per cent phosphoric acid and 7 per

cent potash. Moderate variations in analysis from 5-8-7, as above, are not

important so long as the amounts of each element are well balanced. The

fertilizer should be broadcast over the garden after plowing, at the rate

of 1 pound to every 25 square feet and worked into the soil before

planting. Poultry or sheep manure may be used as top dressing to alternate

with commercial fertilizer. It should be borne in mind that such animal

manures are richer in nitrogen than in other elements and if used to

excess may stimulate leaf growth at the expense of yield and quality.

Frequent shallow cultivations are desirable. The ordinary wheel hoe will

be found helpful in the cultivating procedure. It should be well

understood that cultivation is essential to prevent weed growth and

conserve moisture.

If watering or irrigating is necessary in dry weather, it should be

thoroughly done. One soaking of the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches is

far more effective than frequent light sprinklings. The latter may be more

harmful than beneficial through reestablishing capillary movement,

permitting the escape of subsoil moisture. Water should be applied under

the same conditions that apply when rain falls--on cloudy days or after

sunset to prevent "baking" or encrusting of the surface soil as well as to

conserve the amount of water needed.

_Meeting the Insect Problem._--The sponsor of a garden in which

diversified vegetables are grown must be prepared to meet the onslaught of

equally diversified insect species. While it is true that insects are

multiplying as to species and voraciousness, it is equally true that

methods of control are becoming available to cope adequately with most of

them. One unfamiliar with our insect infestations will be amazed to find

that certain species apparently have had advance notice of his intentions

and are sitting about the planted rows awaiting the appearance of the

tender shoots.

One of the best methods of combating insects is to create ideal conditions

for plant growth. Plants that are underfed through inadequate soil

fertility or are weakened by other causes suffer severely from insect

attack, while vigorous plants will come through with much less damage. It

is advisable to insure rapid germination of seed through careful soil

preparation, to seed at the proper time for a quick and vigorous start and

to have sufficient available fertility to stimulate growth once the plants

have started.

There are two distinct classes of insects, the division being based upon

their feeding habits. The larger group, both in the size of the insects

themselves and in the number of species, is the leaf-chewing group. These

can be destroyed by the application of stomach poisons to the plants under

attack. The other group consists of the sucking insects, which penetrate

the veins carrying nourishment to the leaves and appropriate it for

themselves. Such insects multiply with extreme rapidity, generally feed on

the underside of the leaves and may cause complete wilting of the plant

before their presence is suspected. In such cases a "contact" spray or

dust must be used. This is based on the principle of causing the insect to

"inhale" the material through breathing pores along its body. The

insecticide must be composed of extremely fine particles or must be of

such an oily nature that it will readily penetrate such pores. In

addition to these, certain repellent materials are being developed which

cause the insect to seek food where the disagreeable conditions do not

prevail.

TABLE III

PRINCIPAL INSECTS AND REMEDIES[3]

-----------------+--------------+---------------+---------------------

Plants attacked | Chewing | Character | Treatment

| insects | of damage |

-----------------+--------------+---------------+---------------------

Tomato, pepper, |Flea Beetles |They gnaw or |Dust or spray with

eggplant, turnip,| |eat small holes|a prepared nicotine

cabbage, etc. | |in the leaves. |or pyrethrum mixture.

| | |Bordeaux mixture

| | |sprayed, or dusting

| | |for disease is also

| | |effective as

| | |a repellent.

| | |

Asparagus |Asparagus |Feeds on the |Dust with either

|Beetle |shoots and |arsenate of lead or

| |brush. |calcium arsenate,

| | |mixed with 1 part of

| | |wheat flour. Spray

| | |with arsenate of lead

| | |or calcium arsenate,

| | |1 tablespoonful if a

| | |paste or 1/2

| | |tablespoonful if a

| | |powder, and 1

| | |tablespoonful of lime

| | |to 1 gallon of water.

| | |

All kinds of |Mexican Bean |Eats the under |Dust with 1 part of

beans |Beetle |side of leaves |magnesium arsenate

| | |mixed with 3 parts of

| | |lime, or dust the

| | |yellow larva under

| | |the leaves with a

| | |pyrethrum dust.

| | |

{|Cabbage Maggot| |Keep the ground

{| | |thoroughly cultivated

{| | |around the base of

Early cabbage {| | |the plant or use tar

and cauliflower {| | |paper discs for

{| | |larger plantings.

{| | |

{|Common Cabbage|Feed on the |Same as for asparagus

{|Worm |shoots and |beetle. Pyrethrum

{|and Cabbage |brush. |dust is also very

{|Looper | |effective.

| | |

Cucumber, squash,|Striped |Eats the leaves|Protect with a

and melons. |Cucumber |and the stem of|cheesecloth or do the

|Beetle |the very young |same as for the

| |plants. |asparagus beetle.

| | |

Pumpkins and |Squash Vine |Kills the vines|Take a sharp

squashes |Borer |by eating in |thin-bladed penknife

| |the stem. |and slit the stem

| | |lengthwise, opening

| | |it and killing the

| | |borer. Then bank the

| | |ground around the

| | |stem of the plant.

| | |

Tomato, eggplant,|Potato Beetle |Eats the |Same as for Cabbage

potato | |leaves. |Worm.

| | |

Tomato |Tomato Horn |Eats the |Same as for Common

|Worm |leaves. |Cabbage Worm.

| | |

Tomato fruits |Tomato Fruit |Eats the tomato|Same as for Cabbage

|Worm |fruits. |Worm.

| | |

Tomato, eggplant,|Cutworms |Cut the plants |Protect with paper

pepper, cabbage, | |off near |collars placed

and other crops. | |the surface |around the stem of

| |of the ground. |the plant, extending

| | |2 or 3 inches above

| | |the ground, or

| | |distribute poisoned

| | |bran mash, placing

| | |it near the plant.

| | |Thoroughly mix

| | |2 level

| | |tablespoonfuls of

| | |paris green in

| | |5 pounds of dry bran,

| | |then add from 4 to 6

| | |quarts of water in

| | |which 1/2 pint of

| | |cheap molasses has

| | |been mixed. Cutworms

| | |work at night,

| | |therefore apply the

| | |mash in the late

| | |afternoon or

| | |evening.

-----------------+--------------+---------------+---------------------

Plants attacked | Sucking | Character | Treatment

| insects | of damage |

-----------------+--------------+---------------+---------------------

Tomato, potato, |Leaf Hopper |Feeds under the|Dust or spray with

strawberries, | |leaf, causing |a prepared nicotine

and beans. | |a whitening and|or pyrethrum mixture.

| |curve of the |Bordeaux mixture is

| |leaves with |also effective as

| |a dying of the |a repellent.

| |edges. |

| | |

Practically all |Aphis |Sucks the |Either dust or spray

garden vegetable |(plant lice) |juices on the |with a nicotine or

plants. | |under side of |pyrethrum mixture as

| |the leaves and |recommended on the

| |on the stems. |package. Be sure to

| | |hit the insects on

| | |the under side of the

| | |leaves.

| | |

Cabbage group, |Red Spider |Sucks the |Apply a dusting

strawberries, | |juices from the|sulfur.

and beans. | |under side of |

| |the leaves, |

| |producing |

| |a whitish cast |

| |on the cabbage |

| |group and |

| |a brownish cast|

| |on the other |

| |groups. |

| |Especially |

| |prevalent |

| |during |

| |prolonged dry |

| |hot spells. |

-----------------+--------------+---------------+---------------------

Table III (pages 107-108) describes the character of damage done by both

groups of insects, the plants attacked and the most effective methods of

control.

_Do's_

Grow vegetables for health, recreation and economy.

Organize the vegetable garden for a maximum of output, variety of foods

and to facilitate its care.

Use lime and chemical fertilizer or manure liberally for intensive

culture.

Combat insects by stimulating plant growth and by using appropriate lethal

products.

_Don'ts_

Don't plant a garden in hit-or-miss fashion, if maximum food return is

expected.

Don't neglect first appearances of insect damage. Find out the cause of

injury and use recommended measures for control.

_Chapter_ VIII

HOME FRUITS AND BEES

A wide variety of fruits may be grown satisfactorily for home use. Where

no fruit trees are growing the best plan is to set out individual trees or

bush fruits of the standard types and varieties, adding to the collection

later as the needs of the family develop and the adaptability of the area

for varieties manifests itself through crop production.

All fruits thrive best on a deep, well-drained soil. It is difficult to

secure good results where the area is depressed and air drainage is poor.

Elevation of the area planted is desirable therefore from the standpoint

of both water and air drainage.

A number of questions confront the prospective grower of fruits. He needs

to know, among other things, the kind of fruit to plant, the necessary

distance between the trees or plants and the probable yield. The following

planting guide will be found helpful in answering these questions.

HOME FRUITS AND BEES

PLANTING GUIDE[4]

-------+----------------+--------+--------+-------------------------

Average| | | |

number | | | | Estimated yield

of | |Distance|Distance| at maturity

plants | Kind of fruit |between |between +------------+------------

-------+----------------+--------+--------+------------+------------

27 |Apples | 40 | 40 |135 bushels | 5 bushels

90 |Pears | 22 | 22 |90 bushels | 1 bushel

200 |Quinces | 16 | 16 |100 bushels |1/2 bushel

90 |Peaches | 22 | 22 |90 bushels | 1 bushel

90 |Nectarines | 22 | 22 |90 bushels | 1 bushel

90 |Plums | 22 | 22 |90 bushels | 1 bushel

90 |Cherries (sour) | 22 | 22 |90 bushels | 1 bushel

48 |Cherries (sweet)| 30 | 30 |50 bushels | 1 bushel

6,000 |Strawberries | 3-1/2 | 2 |2,250 quarts| 3/4 pint

1,800 |Raspberries | 8 | 3 |2,000 quarts| 1 quart

1,800 |Blackberries | 8 | 3 |2,400 quarts|1-1/4 quarts

1,200 |Dewberries | 6 | 6 |1,800 quarts| 1 quart

1,800 |Gooseberries | 8 | 3 |5,400 quarts| 3 quarts

1,800 |Currants | 8 | 3 |3,600 quarts| 2 quarts

680 |Grapes | 8 | 8 |4,000 pounds| 6 pounds

-------+----------------+--------+--------+------------+------------

The selection of varieties of tree fruits is highly important. Some sorts

are preeminently adapted to home use because of their high quality of

edibility while others are preferred for commercial production on account

of their good shipping qualities and high yields per acre. It is advisable

for the grower to inquire of his state agricultural college regarding

varieties to plant. Responsible nursery firms will also advise on

varieties that will best meet the needs of the purchaser from the

standpoint of family use and adaptability to soil and climatic

conditions.

The following varieties are recommended for general home use in

north-central areas of the United States, subject to check by local

authorities. The apple and peach varieties are given in the order of

ripening.

Apples:

William

Wealthy

McIntosh

Rome

Stayman

Peaches (all freestone):

Golden Jubilee

Georgia Belle

Elberta

J. H. Hale

Pears:

Bartlett

Seckel

Cherries:

Montmorency or Early Richmond (sour)

Black Tartarian (sweet)

Plums:

Damson (blue)

Burbank (red)

About fifty strawberry plants will be needed for a row 100 feet long.

Because of weed infestations in old beds, it will be more satisfactory to

set a new row each year and destroy the old one. The plants during the

season of setting should be trained to form a matted row about 2 feet

wide. Mulching the plants after a freeze in the fall with straw or other

similar material will prevent injury caused by "heaving" of the soil.

Currants and gooseberries should be pruned annually and only the one- or

two-year-old wood retained for production. Thinning out in this manner

will give better size and quality. Where the currant worm is troublesome

the foliage should be dusted with arsenate of lead or Paris green as soon

as it is well developed and before the fruit is started. About thirty

currant or gooseberry plants will be needed for a 100-foot row, and they

can be planted along a fence or other boundary line.

Blackberries and raspberries should be set 3 feet apart in the row, 100

feet requiring thirty to thirty-five plants. Old canes should be pruned

out after fruiting and the weaker new canes should be removed when

dormant, leaving 6 or 8 inches between the standing canes. Lateral

branches should be cut back in early spring to about 1 foot in length and

the upright canes cut back to uninjured wood, thus removing about

two-thirds of the growth.

Grapes need severe pruning to produce satisfactory yields of good quality.

This is best done in late winter. It is a good plan to prune so that from

15 to 30 or possibly 40 buds are left on each mature vine, depending upon

the vitality of the plant. Two or three clusters of fruit will develop on

the shoot that grows from each bud. A 100-foot row of grapes will require

twelve plants. There are many fine varieties of grapes and several can be

used in a single row.

In ordering stock for planting, care should be exercised in making sure of

the reliability of the nursery. As a general rule it is better to order

from a nursery in the vicinity, thus eliminating losses due to shipping

great distances and also making sure that the varieties or strains were

grown for use in the area in question. Upon the arrival of the stock from

the nursery, it should be "heeled in" at once. That is, the roots should

be covered in a trench so that they will not dry out before they can be

planted in the desired location. In the case of a few trees that can be

set immediately, this is not necessary.

Nearly all country places have sufficient area for planting small fruits

and, as is the case with vegetables, freshness and fine-flavored varieties

will compensate for the labor involved in growing them. Strawberries,

currants, gooseberries, blackberries, red and black raspberries and grapes

are especially desirable for home plantings. Some high-quality varieties

are given for the choice of the home owner, subject to confirmation by

authorities acquainted with specific conditions and intended primarily for

home use.

Strawberries (in order of ripening):

Howard 17

Fairfax

Aberdeen

Joe

Chesapeake

Mastodon is recommended for the everbearing type.

Currants:

Fay

Wilder

Gooseberries:

Chautauqua

Poorman

Blackberries:

Russell

Ward

Eldorado for bush types

Black Diamond for the trailing type requiring a trellis and

ripening late in the season.

Red Raspberries (in order of ripening):

Ranere

Viking

Latham

Black Raspberries:

Cumberland

Quillen

Grapes (general list, in order of ripening):

Ontario (white)

Fredonia (black)

Delaware (red)

Brighton (red)

Golden Muscat (white)

Concord (blue)

Sheridan (black)

For those desiring a succession of blue-black varieties,

Fredonia, Concord and Sheridan are recommended.

_Controlling Insect and Fungous Pests._--Plant pests of various kinds

infest tree fruits and small fruits. In general, the best method of

controlling leaf-chewing insects is by applying arsenate of lead on the

foliage. Care must be taken to avoid staining the fruit with poisonous

spray or thorough washing will be necessary before it is safe to consume.

The control of other insect pests and fungous plant diseases has been well

worked out by agricultural experiment stations throughout the country, and

these methods should be sought before attempting any campaign of

suppression. A barrel spray pump, mounted on a hand truck or on a vehicle,

equipped with plenty of hose will be found satisfactory for spraying

plantings of modest size.

_Rejuvenating an Old Orchard._--The purchaser of an old-established farm

will usually find he has acquired some apple trees of uncertain age and

health. In many instances these trees can be renovated and rejuvenated so

that they will again bear fruit. If the trees have several sound limbs and

are making some growth each year, they may be considered worth saving. On

the other hand, broken tops and limbs accompanied by large rotted cavities

will create too great an expense if an attempt is made to restore them to

usefulness. The varieties should be determined before serious efforts at

renovation are undertaken, so that the strenuous work necessary for

restoration may not be wasted on undesirable fruit.

-----------------+----------------------+-------+-------+------------+