Proceed to New Brunswick. Encounter a severe storm. Come near losing
the ship. Arrived at Delhouse. Sickness of the author. Bleeds himself.
His end apparently approaches. Timely assistance. Sails for Quebec.
Description of the Citadel. A sketch of its history.
I remained at Liverpool only a few days, when I shipped on board the
barque Asia, Capt. Hannah, (a Scotchman) as second mate. Ten days from
the time of my arrival on the Tammercee we weighed anchor and put to
sea, bound for Delhouse, N. B.
We proceeded down the channel with a head wind until abreast the Tuscan
light, when the wind favoring us, we soon lost sight of the land.
We had a good passage until we reached the New Foundland banks. These
are immense sand banks or shoals which greatly endanger the safety of
vessels bound thither. In the spring of the year they are covered with
ice which washes down the Davis straits from the more frozen regions.
Then it is, that ships are obliged to lay to, during the night.
The wind now hauled round from the northwest and blew a complete
hurricane for about six hours, when it abated and fell into a calm.
During the calm, we caught several codfish and halibut.
The dense fog which arose was a sure omen of a southerly wind. For this
we made ready. The wind came at length like a "_cat's paw_" upon the
water. Sails were trimmed, studding-sails set, &c. The wind increased
every moment, and in the course of two hours we were obliged to take in
the studding-sails, and top-gallant-sails, and in the course of three
hours were under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail. Thus we run
until the captain thought us to be in the Gulf of St. Lawrence; and
about 12 o'clock at night altered our course one point. At 4 the next
morning I called the mate. I had scarcely laid my head on the pillow,
when I heard the order, "port your helm, put hard to port," and at the
same time, "haul in the larboard braces, quick; bear a hand my good
fellows or we are all on the beach." At this I sprung upon deck, with
nothing on, save a shirt and a pair of drawers, and met the captain in
the same dress as myself. After the helm had been hard put to port,
she came around on her keel, a thing which I never saw her do before.
Had she not done so, we should have run on the beach at Cape Breton.
This is a large island, separated from Nova Scotia by the straits of
Canseau. It is about 100 miles in length, and from 30 to 80 in breadth,
and is divided into two nearly equal portions by an arm of the sea,
called Bras. de. or. The fog was so dense that it was impossible to see
more than one-fourth of a mile. Had not the high cliffs towered above
the fog, which enabled those on the lookout to see them, we should
inevitably have been wrecked in this awful place. After the ship was
headed off shore, the line was cast and we found only four fathoms
water. Our ship was drawing 18 feet, so that the heaving of the sea
caused her to come within a few inches of the bottom.
For a few moments the greatest fear was depicted on every countenance,
but so accustomed are the mariners to danger, that perils past cause no
forebodings. They being soon forgotten, they rush on to new dangers.
Considerable difficulty arose about the regular allowance of spirits,
which was three glasses per day. But the sailors now swore they would
not work, unless they might be allowed to have four. So desperate were
they grown that one of them struck the mate. I was standing near,
and sprang and dealt the fellow a blow under the ear, which sent him
headlong upon the deck, where he lay several minutes. On getting up, he
asked me why I struck him. I told him, that blow was the promptings of
pure love; to which he replied, "if that is the way you love, I want
no more of it." He then went forward about his business, with his jaw
so bruised that it was several days before he could eat his regular
allowance.
After we came to anchor at the ballast ground, off Delhouse, after a
passage of thirty days, and were discharging our cargo, consisting
of oakum, wheat, rum, tobacco, bale goods, iron and nails, which was
carried on shore on lighters, all of the seamen became intoxicated to
such a degree as to be utterly unable to perform duty. When it was
ascertained that they stole the liquor from the ship and took it on
shore, they all went below and refused to do duty unless the captain
would sign a paper freeing them from embezzlement, and continuing their
wages to them. This they knew he would readily do, as the cold weather
was coming on, which made him extremely anxious to get away, lest he
should be caught in the ice, and be under the necessity of remaining
during the winter, which he would have been obliged to do, had they
left, for hands could not be procured to do the work. After the paper
was signed they went to their duty.
When the ballast was discharged, we hauled the ship to her berth and
commenced taking in lumber. One night the raft of timber, (composed of
logs about 75 in number) broke loose from the chain to which it was
fastened. The mate, hearing the noise, called to me, as I had charge
of it, saying, "the raft has broken adrift." I sprang from my berth
and called the men to assist me, but called in vain. No one, save an
old Frenchman, would venture upon the raft to assist me. I had nothing
on but the clothes I slept in, (I usually slept in cold weather with
my drawers and stockings on,) save my cap. We found the logs getting
loose from each other, as well as from the ship. The wind blew from the
northwest very hard, blowing the water all over us.
Thus we worked with our clothes stiff with ice for nearly three hours.
After we had secured the timbers, we went on deck. I took a stick and
beat the ice from my drawers, shifted myself throughout, drank nearly a
half pint of hot sling, and went to my berth.
The next day I was very sore and stiff; the night following I
experienced some pain in my side, got up, and walked the deck; vomited
several times. I grew gradually worse until I could not breathe without
a sort of catch or twitching, which was extremely painful. When I lay
down, I could not rise again without assistance.
When morning came a physician came on board and bled me, which
afforded great relief. He came again in the afternoon of the same day,
and learning that the captain was going to sail soon, he told him if he
carried me to sea, it would be the death of me, as I was most severely
attacked with pleurisy, and must have medical aid immediately.
I was taken on shore to a house, where I remained seven days, seeing my
sick nurse only four times, he leaving me some soup.
The vessel left the harbor the next day after I went on shore, being
driven out by the ice, with the loss of an anchor and part of the cable.
One day the old Frenchman who assisted me on the raft, came to see me.
I told him how I had been neglected, and shaking his head, he said it
was too bad, and that I should not stay there, and then left the room.
After an hour or two he returned with a horse and sleigh, assisted me
into it and drove a distance of five miles, to the house of a French
lady, where I remained six weeks.
This kind lady, although an entire stranger, took a mother's care of
me, at the same time knowing not that she should ever be compensated
for it. Her many kindnesses I can never forget.
I inquired of the doctor if there was any money in the treasury at
Delhouse. He said there was, and seemed astonished that I had not
made application for it. He then wrote a certificate, stating that I
had been left, at the advice of a physician, by the barque Asia, of
Liverpool, and was still under his care. This being presented to the
treasury brought me a guinea per week during the time I should remain
under the care of a physician.
This fund is raised by reserving one shilling per month from the wages
of all seamen that sail in British vessels. In every port of any
considerable note a hospital is erected, in others a fund is deposited,
to be expended in case of sickness of any of her majesty's subjects.
At the expiration of six weeks, I had so far recovered as to be able to
walk a short distance to the neighbors in pleasant weather. My appetite
was getting to be very good, and in fact, I considered myself almost
well.
One day Mrs. Prosper, (my kind nurse's name) wishing to go to Delhouse,
asked me to go with her. Wrapping myself up warmly, we started. On
arriving at Delhouse, I went to the public house and remained while she
was doing her business. On our return I got a little chilly. This with
the fatigue of the ride (which proved too much for me) quite overcame
me, and obliged me to take to bed again. I called for the doctor. A
boy was sent for him, but returned, saying, that the doctor was also
confined to his bed. I almost gave up in despair. There I was with a
second and more severe attack of pleurisy, without medical aid. Mrs.
Prosper aided by her sister (who with me were the only members of the
family) did all in their power to assist me. The pain I experienced
was almost beyond endurance. I found the roots of my finger nails were
purple, the blood having settled there. The veins on my arms and hands
were full almost to bursting. I called Mrs. Prosper, who, when she saw
me, said to her sister, "he will not live long." This I understood,
although spoken in French, and it came to my ears like thunder. Thus to
die, away from my childhood's home, with none save the friends of an
hour to soothe me, in my last moments.
Then, as in every other time of danger, did I regret the step I had
taken in leaving home, and resolved, that should my life be again
spared, I would hasten to the home from which I had been absent nearly
nine years, (to which I had pledged myself I would _never_ return)
and forget the petty occurrence that forced me from those to whom I
was bound by the nearest and dearest ties. I called for a small knife
which was in my vest pocket, resolved to make a desperate effort to
save myself from the death which seemed so near. After being raised up
in bed, I bled myself in the left arm, and then taking the knife in
my left hand opened a vein in my right arm. Such was the pressure of
blood that it flew all over the room. The women seeing what I had done,
left the house screeching at the top of their voices. I lay literally
weltering in my own blood. The blood left my finger nails, the pains
ceased, and I was perfectly easy, still conscious that my end was near.
To fully describe my situation, my pen is inadequate, and I must leave
the reader to imagine for himself my situation, forsaken as I was by
every person from whom assistance could be had, and bleeding profusely,
with no means to check it.
So much was I reduced, that I was about falling into a sleep from which
I never should have awoke. At this moment an old Scotchman (a quaker)
who had occasionally visited me, aroused by the cries of the women,
came into the room and asked what was the matter. I was too feeble to
answer, but cast my eyes about the room, signifying look for yourself.
He left the room, but soon returned with some pebbles which he took
from a spring near the house, and bound them on my arms, thus checking
the blood. He then went in search of Mrs. Prosper, whom he reprimanded
for leaving me. (By the way she supposed me attempting suicide.)
I was removed on a sheet, and the bed which was wet through with blood
was changed, and I was laid again upon it. There I remained nine days
motionless and speechless and almost senseless and lifeless. The third
day the doctor had so far recovered as to visit me. On hearing the
situation I was in, he said the bleeding was the only thing that would
have saved me. He told Mrs. Prosper that it was very doubtful about my
getting up again.
Leaving some medicine, he left the house. Instead of giving me the
medicine he left, Mrs. Prosper procured a dozen bottles of the best
Port wine, to which she added one pound of Peruvian bark. I drank a
wine-glass full night and morning. Several times during the day my
mouth was washed or moistened with a sponge saturated with the wine.
One morning the sister of Mrs. Prosper came into the room, and with
tears in her eyes, bade me an affectionate farewell, saying she was
going away and should not see me again. Seeing her so affected at my
situation, I could not refrain from shedding tears also. Seeing me shed
tears, she considered it ominous of my recovery.
Each day I found I had additional strength, and with the best care
was, at the expiration of three weeks, enabled to sit up a few moments
at a time.
I was obliged to keep the doctor along, for the moment he left me my
pay from government was stopped.
Now for the first time since my sickness did I attempt to acquaint my
friends with my situation. (I had written several times from Liverpool
and other places, but received no answer.) To this I received no
reply, and at the expiration of four weeks, wrote again. This also was
unnoticed.
I then made up my mind that the circle which once welcomed me as the
only son and brother, had resolved to disown me. This, to a repentant
wanderer, occasioned many an hour of sadness.
I resolved that should I ever so far recover as to be able to find
them, to cast myself upon them, begging them to receive back their son
and brother, who had almost cursed the hour that separated him from
them.
The doctor visited me every day, and at each visit left an additional
supply of medicine. This he continued till about the first of March;
at the expiration of which time I found myself in possession of drugs
enough for a wholesale Apothecary establishment, the doctor, meanwhile,
supposing I had pursued his directions.
I was at length left upon my own resources, for the doctor, pronouncing
me free from his care, stopped my funds.
One neighbor, building a schooner offered me the job of making the
sails, which busied me until the 1st of April, when I went on board a
schooner bound to Quebec.
The capital of Canada and of British America, is situated on a bold
promontory, at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles, (or
Little River,) about 350 miles from the sea. The basin or harbor of
Quebec is sufficiently large to contain 75 or 100 sail of the line.
Accidentally becoming acquainted with an officer of the 15th Reg. of H.
M. troops, then stationed there, I was enabled to visit parts, which
to most visitors would be inaccessible. Quebec, the strongest town in
America, and the strongest in the world, except Gibraltar, is built on
a rock, which is partly of marble, and partly of slate, and is divided
into Upper and Lower Towns.
At the time it was founded, 1608, it is said the tide washed the rock;
since that time the river has sunk away so far as to leave a large
spot of dry ground on which stands the Lower Town. The houses of both
towns are of stone, and well built. The fortifications are extensive
but irregular. The natural situation of the town renders its defence
easy; the lofty, perpendicular rocks, on the southeast, constitute in
themselves an insurmountable barrier. The river St. Charles, with its
shallow water, and low flats of sand, and mud drained almost dry, by
the ebbing of the tide, forms an obstacle difficult to be encountered
in the erection of commanding works, or to the location of ships on
the east and north; and even, should the water allow ships to come up,
their guns could not injure in the least the works of the Upper Town,
while they would subject themselves to great danger from the cannons
and bombs of those elevated ramparts. The only accessible point is on
the southwest from the plains of Abraham, where there is no barrier of
rocks, no river, ravine, or marsh, or other natural impediments to an
enemy's approach, which deficiency is supplied by walls and towers.
The distance across from one river to the other is nearly a mile; the
average diameter is three-fourths of a mile. A complete wall of hewn
stone encircles the town, and is furnished with strong massy arches and
gates, and with deep ditches. The walls vary much in height as well
as in thickness; everywhere however, they are high enough to render
escalade very difficult, and a breach almost hopeless. In the strongest
part, next the plains, they are about fifty feet high, and about an
equal thickness; even the lofty precipice of naked rock is surmounted
with stone walls and cannon, and the highest points are covered with
towers and distinct batteries; and generally the curtains of the
walls are looped for musketry; and projecting bastions present their
artillery to the assailants, raking the ditches immediately adjacent to
the inner walls. This inner wall, as I have already remarked, is about
fifty feet thick. Besides this, there is another wall and ditch, which
both must be scaled before the inner or main wall can be approached.
A party would be most dreadfully exposed while mounting this exterior
wall. The avenue to the gate St. Louis, which opens to the plains,
is bounded on both sides by high walls, which make several turns in
zigzag, and at every turn cannon point directly to the approacher. In
every possible direction, where the walls can be approached, large
guns are ready to meet the assailants. The highest point of the rock
is called Cape Diamond, and upon it is erected the famous citadel of
Quebec. This is not, as one might suppose, a building or castle covered
with a roof. It is open, and differs only from the rest of the works
by being more elevated, and therefore more commanding.
The highest part of the citadel is Brock's Battery, which is mounted
with cannon pointed towards the plains. Within the walls are numerous
magazines and stores of provisions of sufficient quantity to supply the
town for a term of years. Piles of cannon balls every where meet the
eye. Beyond the walls, on the plains, are the four martello Towers.
They are solidly constructed of stone, about forty feet high, and about
the same diameter at the base. These are mounted with guns pointing
towards the plains, and effectually commanding it. The principal object
of these is to prevent the enemy from obtaining possession of the high
ground of the plains. The guns on these towers can only be made to bear
one way towards the plains, so as to prevent, as in all other parts,
the enemy, should they obtain possession of them, or any one part, from
using their own arms against them. The side of the towers, towards the
town, can be easily battered by the guns upon the walls. So, should an
enemy get possession of the towers, they could be easily thrown from
them.
The city was founded by the French in 1608. In 1629, the English
reduced it with all Canada; but it was restored to the French in 1632.
In 1711 it was again besieged by the English, but without success. It
was again, in 1759, attacked and conquered, after a battle memorable
for the death of Gen. Wolfe, who fell in the moment of victory. As he
was expiring in the arms of his soldiers he heard the cry of "they
fly." He raised his drooping head, and inquired "Who fly?" being
answered "the French," he resigned himself back into the arms of a
lieutenant, exclaiming, with his last breath, "then I die in peace."
By the peace of 1763 this was confirmed to the English. In 1775, the
Americans attacked it under Gen. Montgomery, who was slain, and his
army repulsed with great loss. Great improvements have been made within
a few years, and are still making, which render it so strong in its
defences, that any attempt with any force whatever to take it, would
prove a fruitless undertaking.
The time allotted me (eight days) for staying at this place, was soon
passed, giving me but little opportunity to examine minutely the many
objects of wonder and curiosity.
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