Sail in the Borneo for Limerick. A Man is found secreted on board.
Conduct of the Captain. Sympathy of the Crew. Terrible Storm.
Wretchedness of our Situation. Account of the loss of the Francis
Spade. Singular occurrence. The Storm continues. Reach the Shannon.
The rolling of the Killserphine. Its Tradition. Reach Limerick. Sail
for London. Sail for Egypt. Description of Gibraltar. Arrive at the
quarantine ground off Alexandria. Go to the Dead Sea. Its description.
Return to Alexandria. Curiosities and History of Egypt. Manners and
Customs of the People.
I shipped on board the ship Borneo, Captain Gorman of and for Limerick.
We weighed our anchor about the first of April, 1839, with a crew of
twenty-four men, including officers. We had a very pleasant sail down
the river. The third day after we stood out of Quebec, a man made his
appearance on board, who was a stranger to all excepting the captain
and mate. The captain inquired how he came there; he replied that he
belonged to Killruch, and had offered him (the captain) all the money
he had, which was less than the passage money, and being very anxious
to go home, was determined the ship should not leave without him;
consequently he watched an opportunity to secrete himself on board;
and when the watch was on deck, or when the watch was below asleep, he
would crawl from his hiding place to the store-room, where he would get
enough to supply him until another opportunity offered for him to get
another supply. This he continued until the third day as mentioned.
The captain, after hearing his story, ordered the mate, who was an old
schoolmate, and fellow associate of his, to tie him to the capstan,
and pour cold water over him every half hour. This the mate refused to
do to one to whom he was so strongly attached. The man as well as the
captain insisted upon it; still he refused. The crew then proposed to
pay his passage, which the captain accepted, and the man was released.
The wind blowing a fresh breeze soon brought us in sight of
Newfoundland. The breeze freshening each moment, soon became a
perfect gale. The captain thought best to run through the straits
of Bellisle--the channel that separates New Foundland from
Labrador--passing through in the night during the first watch. We
stowed the main sky-sail, and fore, main and mizzen royals, also
tried the pumps. About midnight, the cry of "all hands ahoy." "Bear
a hand up, and reef top-sails." The three top-sails were reefed, and
the top-gallant sails set over them, and the main-sail furled. When
this was done, the whiskey, as was usual in those days in such times,
was passed around. This occupied two or three hours, when we went
below again. At four we were called again, this being a new or second
watch. The order, "clew up the top-gallant sails and stow them," was
quickly obeyed, when another, "lay aft my lads, splice the main brace,"
(meaning, take another round of whiskey,) "man your top-sails, reef
tackles and clew lines, lower away your halyards roundly. When all is
done, lay aloft and reef your sails." Soon the seven bells called the
watch to breakfast. The ship at this time was laboring very heavy under
the press of canvass. The wheel got the advantage of the helmsman, and
in an instant broached to; at the same time a heavy sea boarding her,
swept the caboose clear from the deck, leaving the cooking apparatus,
it being strongly secured by large bolts to the deck, or we should have
lost our whole breakfast; as it was it was hardly worth eating, being
wet with salt water.
The ship was soon got before the wind again; the pumps were examined,
and seven feet of water found in the hold. The pumps were rigged, and
all hands were obliged to take their turn at them. The ship was heavily
deck loaded, which rendered it very crank, or, in other words, easily
to be upset; as well as made it extremely difficult to go about on
deck to work the ship, and making it altogether unsafe, as there was
nothing to prevent our being washed overboard. We lashed ourselves to
the railing around the mainmast, and thus we stood for twenty-four
hours, having nothing to eat but a few hard biscuit, taking a glass of
whiskey as often as every half or three-fourths of an hour. The gale
still increased,--the sea under our stern would raise the ship to such
a height, that for a moment it appeared as if she would go over in end;
then she would fall again, and for a moment be engulphed between two
high seas apparently fifty or sixty feet high, when they would come
again with seemingly greater fury. When rising this wave, it appeared
as if the ship went at the rate of 14 or 16 knots an hour. Keeping the
pumps at work constantly, we were enabled to check the increase of the
water; but still so great was the leakage, that we could not decrease
the quantity already in the hold. This was truly discouraging. Whiskey
was dealt out freely, which served in some degree to drive away the
fear of the moment.
One night, when under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail, with
two men at the wheel, our ship broached to, or suddenly turned to the
windward of her course, which presented her side to the wind, and
greatly endangered her upsetting. At this time all hands were aloft,
reefing and securing the sails that had blown adrift from the yards.
Those that were at that time from the mast, upon the yards, sought
safety by clinging to the yard, which brought them erect upon the same.
Others, that were near the masts, lay at, or were in a horizontal
position. While she lay upon her beam ends, a heavy sea boarded her,
sweeping the hurricane house, bed, and bedding of the second mate,
spare sails, ropes, and six casks of meat, clear from the deck, and
disabling one of the men at the wheel. At length she righted, quite to
the disappointment of all on board; for we all expected she was lost.
In this condition we lay, drifting at the mercy of the wind and waves
twelve hours, when we loosed the fore-sail and fore top-mast-stay-sail
after goose winging (or fastening the clew or lower corner of the sail,
while the middle is secured or fastened to the yard) the fore-sail and
boarding the fore-tacks, set the stay-sails, and put the helm hard
up. She payed off a little, and shivering the main-top-sail, we were
soon before the wind again, running at the rate of 12 or 15 knots per
hour. The wind abating somewhat, allowed us to make a little sail. Our
top-sails and fore-top-mast-studding-sails were set on both sides. A
squall suddenly arose, blowing our fore-top-mast studding sails from
the yards and braces, the fore-top-sail was in an instant torn from the
bolt rope, leaving only a few fragments hanging to it.
At the time the squall arose all hands were at the pumps, and six
only could possibly be spared to secure the sails that the wind had
left hanging to the yards, or to cut the fragments of those torn from
the ropes, clear. Being one of this number, I hastened to perform the
order. As I came up over the run, I saw a Russian in the attitude of
prayer. I stopped a moment, not wishing to interfere with his devotion.
Another of the crew soon came up, and going up to the Russian while yet
upon his knees, gave him a hearty kick in the ribs! at the same time
advising him with oaths and imprecations, to put off his praying until
better weather, and attend to the safety of the ship. We succeeded,
though at the peril of our lives, in securing the sails. Our condition
was now indeed wretched, seemingly the worst that could be pictured.
The crew upon whom the management of our now half water-logged ship
devolved, were much worn with fatigue and hunger, having nothing to eat
save what we took raw and wet, there being no place to cook anything,
as the water which constantly swept over the deck, rendered our
attempts to build and support a fire fruitless. Consequently we ate raw
pork and beef, with bread which had been completely wet through with
salt water.
To add to our almost insupportable suffering, the deck, by the constant
straining and tossing of the ship, leaked so badly that every article
of clothing, bed and bedding, were completely drenched, so that we were
not only destitute of an occasional dry suit, but were deprived of a
dry and comfortable place in which to rest ourselves, when for a moment
we could in turns be spared from the arduous duties of our situation.
In giving a just and accurate description of this, as well as every
other storm at sea, the pen entirely fails. There can be no just
conception of it, but by having it vividly impressed upon the mind, by
keen, sensitive reality.
The same Capt. Gorman, who had the command of our ship had a few
years before, commanded one called the Francis Spade, and by his
mismanagement, she water-logged, was dismasted, and lost. The crew of
that ill-fated vessel remained upon the wreck seven days in a state
of starvation, their ship stores having been swept away. They at last
resorted to the horrible extreme of casting lots, to see which should
fall a victim to satisfy the hunger of the rest. The first lot fell
upon a boy 12 or 15 years of age. Knowing his fate, with that degree
of fortitude that characterized the martyrs of other days, he set
about putting an end to his own life by bleeding. After trying in vain
to open a vein in his arm, he called for a blanket, which he wrapped
around his form; then cutting a deep gash in the bottom of both feet,
calmly laid himself down to meet the death which it was his lot to
suffer. No sooner had the pulse ceased to beat, than the body was
divided among the half famished crew, who with the rapacity of tigers
fell to devouring it. Two other boys afterwards fell victims to the
same fate.
Some of our crew being rather superstitious, fancied they heard groans
and deep sighs, when we were in the vicinity of the scene of the above
related horrible transaction. So firmly was the belief established in
their minds, that nothing could dissuade them from it, and often would
they mention it as an actual occurrence.
In this situation we passed another night, hoping that the morning
would bring relief. Our hopes were not realized, but quite to the
contrary, for the gale increased instead of abating. All hands were
called to close-reef the main-top-sail, the pumps were obliged to be
kept in constant operation, there having been seven feet of water in
the hold since the first commencement of the gale.
A heavy sea struck the ship and spun the wheel at which I was
stationed, rapidly around, the spokes of it caught me under the jacket,
throwing me heels over head and thrusting me head foremost through a
partition of stout panel-work, which left me senseless for a moment.
The captain being near caught the wheel and prevented the ship from
broaching to, which it must have done and perhaps to our entire loss,
had not timely assistance been offered.
I was carried below, my shoulder bathed and placed in a sling--after
the pain had subsided somewhat, I went to the pumps, working with one
hand, thus relieving one man who could render assistance elsewhere.
There I remained three days and two nights with but little cessation,
when at the expiration of this time the gale abated. We saw the
Skelligo light on the coast of Ireland and in a few hours we were
safely in the mouth of the river Shannon, which is navigated by large
ships 200 miles.
Here we took pilot and made sail up the river. Soon we were land-locked
and could make no progress. All hands were called to bend a
fore-top-sail, and while bending it, the pilot spoke, saying, "we are
in the _Killserphine_!" the captain replied that "it was not the season
for it to break." This was no sooner said, than a noise was heard like
distant thunder, which caused all hands to look for its cause, when
to our surprise we saw a heavy sea rolling half mast high, and coming
directly towards us.
The captain in agony of mind exclaimed, "My God! we are all lost!"
The sea struck us, washing one of the men from the wheel, and filling
the decks with water, but doing no damage save carrying away the carved
work on the stern and the starboard quarter boat. This was followed by
one of less magnitude scarcely washing the deck. The third one beat
lightly against the stern.
This occasioned much surprise among the crew, for many of them knew not
what it meant, having never before heard of such a place.
Upon inquiry respecting it, I was informed by an Irishman, over whose
head 90 winters, which he recollects, have passed, that once there was
an island in the Shannon on which was a castle and other buildings, and
that by the workings of nature that island gradually sunk away, until
it disappeared entirely, and now each year the soundings are found to
vary, there yet being a gradual sinking of the river's bottom. The
water is now 11 or 12 fathoms deep.
During each year, (it is said by those upon whom reliance can be
placed) there are three swells or rollings of the sea, the same as
those above described, and at no stated or regular times, often taking
the mariner by surprise. This to the incredulous may seem to be
unworthy of credit; but I have the testimony of hundreds to the truth
of the same. The cause of this phenomenon I shall not attempt to state.
We came to anchor about the middle of April, 1839. Seven of us were
sent to the hospital, where I remained fourteen days, when getting my
discharge, I went to a boarding-house where I remained only a few days,
and then shipped on board the brig Bryanabbs of Limerick, Capt. Gorman,
(a brother of the captain of the Borneo) bound for London, with wheat
in bulk for cargo. We reached London the middle of May.
There I remained but a short time, having a berth offered me on board
the Bengal, Capt. Wright, bound for Alexandria.
Getting before a fair wind we were soon in the Bay of Biscay, where we
encountered a short though very severe gale of wind. Nothing occurred
more than is usual in all gales.
After the wind abated we again made sail and stood for Gibralter, where
we touched for the purpose of getting some recruits, such as hogs,
fowls, &c.
Gibralter is situated upon a point of land at the south of Europe, on
the north side of the Straits of Gibralter, which forms a communication
between the Atlantic and Mediterranean sea. It belongs to Great
Britain, and is undoubtedly the strongest fortress in the world, and
is supposed to be impregnable. The length, from the Spanish line to
the most southern point is three miles, and the circumference seven. No
communication can be held between the garrison of this fortress, and
the rest of Spain, owing to a strongly fortified line drawn for the
purpose by the Spaniards.
The town is defended on the water side by a line of ramparts forming a
continued fortification from the north and perpendicular side of the
rock, to the extremity of the Moors' wall, which was built about the
year one thousand. This wall divides the rock into two equal parts,
running from the water's side up a very steep ascent.
Since the time this wall was built, fortifications have been carried
entirely round the rock, and works cut into the interior on the
perpendicular side, which renders them impregnable.
Since this place was captured by the English they have excavated the
rock, forming galleries and caverns of several thousand feet in length,
and in case an enemy should carry the outer works, the besieged can
retire to these subterraneous passages, and there hold out against an
immensely superior force.
These galleries are at an elevation of from 300 to 1300 feet above the
surface of the plain below. They are arranged in tiers, each forming a
battery, of which there are 23 in number. Were a general battery of all
the embrazures to take place at the same time, it would afford one of
the grandest spectacles in the world.
In every place where it is possible to make an attack even with a small
number of men, cannon are planted upon the surface of the rock, and
these are at such an elevation, and the use of them so well understood,
that the object aimed at is hit with as much certainty as with a fusee.
Should the lines near the water be carried by an enemy, they would have
to dispute the ascent to the top of the mountain inch by inch, and
should they even succeed in obtaining possession of the whole surface
of the mountain, they would have to combat an army in the bowels of the
rock against a thousand mines and other artifices, which would render
the situation of the assailants very unsafe and dangerous. There are
close quarters in the rocks for 1200 men, and provisions for three
years, with a sufficient quantity of ammunition always stored there.
Since the English took Gibralter in 1704, it has been repeatedly
besieged but always without success. The combined forces of Spain and
France laid siege to it in 1779, and after four years of the most
strenuous and powerful efforts to reduce it, were obliged to abandon
the project, and withdraw.
Thus much for a description of Gibralter, which I should not give at
such length were it not a place of peculiar interest.
We weighed our anchor once more for Alexandria. Nothing worthy of
notice occurred on our passage. We came to anchor four or five miles
from the town and were immediately boarded by an officer of customs
and put under quarantine, although the captain was allowed on shore
to attend to his business. At the expiration of the quarantine (ten
days) we weighed anchor and stood further in shore. Capt. Wright seeing
the impossibility of procuring a cargo of cotton and rice, proposed
visiting the Dead Sea.
The Consul, falling in with the idea, and wishing to go himself,
procured for the journey horses and asses, the former for the use of
the captain and officers, and the latter for the sailors and servants.
We started, our company numbering about 30, with our provisions and
baggage lashed upon the asses. Soon after crossing the Nile we came
into a large prairie of tall grass through which was a straight and
narrow path, only wide enough for one to ride at a time. After riding
about 15 miles, we came to a little village, chiefly the residence of
Copts, (a race of people generally considered as the descendants of the
ancient Egyptians, being of a light mulatto color, black eyes, high
cheek bones, short nose, large mouth, thick lips and half wooly hair.
Some of the females are exceedingly handsome and of graceful and easy
carriage.) Here we refreshed ourselves and horses, and amused ourselves
by shooting birds of different kinds.
After our horses were rested, we proceeded on our way, passing through
a piece of woods heavily timbered about a mile in width. This wood
was literally filled with birds of every description, some of them
possessing musical powers far superior to many of the human family.
Beyond this wood in the open field we found a large spring of most
delightful clear cold water, with which we filled our skins. The day
being nearly spent, we rode as fast as we could urge the animals along.
The horses being more fleet than the asses, soon left them behind. It
was impossible to increase their speed or even make them retain the
old pace except by the most severe beatings. We rode until 11 o'clock
before we could overtake those with the horses, when we found them
quietly reposing under a thatched roof which had been built by some
travelers, or some other persons and deserted.
Here we all _turned in_ together, if it could be called "turning in" to
camp down on the bare ground without blankets or other bed clothing to
protect us from the night air, and musquitoes who were swarming around
by thousands. We got but little rest.
As soon as the light appeared in the east, we mounted and were on our
journey again. About 9 o'clock we made a halt in a grove and took our
morning repast. We soon crossed the great road which leads from Suez
to Jerusalem. Here we made a stop and shot a few birds. While tarrying
here a caravan of 40 camels came along from Suez bound to Joppa, laden
with goods of all kinds.
The traveling is usually done in caravans or armed bodies, as a
safeguard against the many robbers (who are usually wandering Arabs)
who infest the country, capturing and sacking everything which comes in
their way.
We soon crossed a small river or creek, about two feet in depth, which
the natives called the outlet of the Dead Sea, which led us into a
large open country, with here and there a grove or cluster of trees. By
the continual application of the clubs over the heads of our asses, we
were enabled to keep a moderate pace, though not equal to that of the
horses.
The second night was passed similar to the first. On the morning of the
third day we reached the point of our destination.
The Dead Sea, or Lake Asphaltites as it is sometimes called, (from
the great quantities of bituminous and inflammable substance which are
found floating on its surface) lies in Palestine and is about 60 miles
long and 15 wide. It covers the ground on which stood the cities of
Sodom and Gomorrah, buried according to history, by an earthquake, with
frequent eruptions of fire, or according to Scriptural expression, by a
"rain of sulphur."
Many superstitious prejudices have been entertained relative to the
Dead Sea, which are entirely unfounded in truth. It has been said,
that "beautiful fruit grows upon its shores, which is no sooner
touched, than it becomes dust and bitter ashes," that its waters prove
destructive to animal life, and that numerous are the victims to the
exhalation of the atmosphere in the vicinity.
But on the contrary, I can assure my readers that this pretended "fruit
of ashes" is a natural and admirable production, that its waters swarm
with myriads of fishes, and that certain birds make this lake their
peculiar resort, and do not become "victims to its exhalations." Bodies
sink or float in it according to the proportion of their gravity to the
gravity of the water. The bituminous substance, called Asphaltas, which
is found upon its surface, is thrown up from the bottom in a melted
state by the agency of subterranean heat, and having become solid by
the coldness of the water, is collected on the margin of the lake. This
is a valuable article, and is much used for various purposes, in the
United States.
At the time of our visit, the surface of the sea was unruffled by a
breeze, and as smooth as a mirror. We saw none of those clouds of
vapor or smoke which are said to rise from the surface of the lake and
from the neighboring mountain. Every thing about it was, in the highest
degree, grand and awful. We approached the shore, and here we found
that the stones were of a combustible nature and would ignite by the
application of a match, owing we supposed to their being covered with
the bituminous substance.
Among the various kinds of birds we found, there was one worthy of our
particular attention. This is called the Sounding bird, and is of a
dark gray color, and the size of the body will well compare with that
of the New England pigeon. The head was as large as that of a common
goose, and on the top of it is a semi-circular shell of about six
inches in length and two in breadth, (at the top) and covered with a
thin skin. This shell is hollow. These birds were such a curiosity that
we carried several of them back with us to the ship.
After remaining at the sea thirty-six hours, we set out on our return.
During the first day of our journey back, the officers kept us company;
but on the morning of the second day they put spurs to their horses,
and left us far behind. We rode all night, and arrived at Alexandria
about five o'clock in the morning of the third day. Greatly fatigued
with the journey, I went into a barn, or shed, and fell asleep on a
pile of straw, where I remained until near sunset. As soon as I emerged
from the shed, I was accosted by one of my shipmates with "Halloo!
where have you been this long time?"
"Under the lee of a bundle of straw," I replied.
"Well, all the Copts of Egypt have been searching for you," said
he, "until at last we concluded that you had fallen a victim to
the poisonous atmosphere of the Dead Sea, and gone off yourself in
_evaporation_. We therefore have got the cargo ready without your
assistance; but if you are still in a _mortal_ state, and capable of
hauling a rope, (as your refreshed appearance would indicate,) then
bear a hand, for every thing is ready." We then went on board, where I
found the cargo stowed; consisting of cotton, ivory, gums, &c., and all
things in preparation to weigh the anchor.
I will in this place give my readers a brief description of some of
the curiosities of Egypt; and some general characteristics of the
inhabitants, which come under my observation, during my stay in that
country. Of all the wonders of this truly wonderful country, the ruins
and antiquities which it contains, are perhaps the greatest. The
mechanical labors and monuments of the ancient Egyptians are beyond the
imitation of modern times.
Among the many ruins of Alexandria, the most prominent are Pompey's
Pillar, and Cleopatra's Needle. There are other magnificent remains,
such as prostrate rows of marble columns, and mutilated capitals.
Pompey's Pillar stands upon a pedestal twelve feet high. The shaft is
round, and one hundred feet in height. The diameter is about nine feet.
Cleopatra's Needle is sixty-four feet high, and eight feet square at
the base. The shaft is granite, covered with hieroglyphics.
There are a great number of Pyramids scattered over the country, but
the most remarkable are those of Djizeh, Sakhara, and Darhour. The size
of these is so great, that they appear to the spectator to be near
at hand, when he is many leagues distant from them. The account of
Herodotus is, that ten years were consumed in preparing a road whereon
to draw the immense blocks of stone; and the labors of 100,000 men
employed, who were relieved once in three months.
The largest is ascribed to Cheops. It covers an area of eleven acres,
and is four hundred and eighty feet high, one hundred and twenty-seven
feet higher than the cross of St. Paul's, in London. The entrances
to those pyramids which have been explored, descend at exactly the
same angle, and at the same part of the fabric. Various passages and
chambers have been discovered by great labor, and wells or shafts
conducting from above to the lower apartments. The entrances are
artfully concealed in the wall, thirty feet or less above the base. The
passages were sometimes stopped with a solid block of granite, made,
however, to slide upwards by the force of a lever.
Immense chambers have been found in them, hewn from the solid rock.
Belzoni found one forty-eight feet in length, sixteen wide, and
twenty-four high. The pyramids are composed of immense blocks of stone,
laid upon each other in the receding manner of steps. The celebrated
Sphynx, of which so much has been written, is now almost buried in
sand. The head and neck only remain uncovered. The form is that of a
woman's head and breast on the body of a lion. Since buried in the
sand, it has once been excavated and measured. The length was found to
be one hundred and thirty feet, the breast was thirty-three feet wide,
and the head and neck twenty-seven feet high,--the whole, except the
paws, which are of masonry, was cut from the solid rock.
Alexandria, the scene of many of these ruins, is situated upon the
Mediterranean Sea, and has communication with the river Nile by means
of a canal. This city was founded by Alexander the Great, and rose
immediately to wealth and greatness; and for science and literature
was second only to Rome. It once contained 600,000 inhabitants. After
its capture by the Saracens, it began to decline, and the discovery
of the passage to India destroyed its commercial importance. At
present it consists of narrow, crooked, and dirty streets, and lofty
buildings, and is surrounded by a high stone wall. The population at
the present time cannot exceed 15,000. Egypt is inhabited by a number
of distinct tribes, or classes. The most numerous are the Fellahs, or
Arab cultivators; the descendants of the ancient conquerors; these are
well formed, and active, though lean. They have fine teeth, and sunken,
sparkling eyes. Upper Egypt is settled principally by the Copts, of
whom I have before spoken. Besides these are Greeks, Jews, Syrians,
Turks, &c., scattered over the country.
The people are so various, that the customs are therefore different in
the different classes. The Arabs are cheerful, quiet, and have many
good qualities. The Jews are filthy, and avaricious; they are generally
merchants, and officers of the customs. The inhabitants of the cities
are indolent and sensual; have but little employment, and their
amusements are of a depraving kind. The women are vailed, and secluded,
as in all oriental countries, but they have still much freedom.
Beauty is esteemed by weight, as in many Mohammedan countries, and the
Christian observes various trifling practices, totally at variance
with those to which he has been accustomed. The beard is worn and the
hair shaven. The men wear petticoats, and the women trowsers. Fingers
supply the place of forks; a cushion is used instead of a chair, and a
tray instead of a table is set upon the floor. Females hide their faces
and display their bosoms. Many things seem to be adhered to because
they are at variance with European usage. The inhabitants delight in
exhibitions of wrestlers, rope dancers, &c. The exhibitions of the
serpent charmers, are terrific--they handle the serpent with perfect
familiarity, and are seldom bitten. There are numerous dancing women
who perform in public, but their exhibitions conform to the state of
moral sentiment, and are such as would not be tolerated in America.
Marriages in Egypt are generally contracted by the intervention of
friends, and frequently the parties do not see each other till the
ceremony. The females are often married at fifteen, and sometimes at an
earlier age. The climate is peculiar, during eight months in the year,
from March to November; the heat is almost insupportable to a European,
or American. During the whole of this season the air is inflamed, the
sky sparkling, and the heat oppressive to all unaccustomed to it. The
southerly winds which sometimes blow there are called by the natives
_poisonous_ winds, or the hot winds of the desert. They are of such
extreme heat that no animated body exposed to them can withstand their
pernicious influence. During the three days of the southern blast, the
streets are deserted; and woe to the traveler whom this wind surprises
remote from shelter; when it exceeds three days it is insupportable.
Very frequently the inhabitants are almost blinded with drifts of
sand, but these evils are in a great measure remedied by the rising
and overflowing of the Nile. This occurs annually, and supplies the
deficiency of rain, (very little falling in that country,) in producing
the vast fertility for which Egypt is so famed.
The river begins to rise the last of May, and continues till September.
At the height of its flood in Lower Egypt, nothing is to be seen in
the plains but the tops of forest and fruit trees; the towns and
villages being for that reason built upon eminences, either natural or
artificial. When the river is at its proper height, the inhabitants
celebrate a kind of jubilee with great festivity. The banks or mounds
which confine it, are cut by the Turkish Pasha, attended by his
grandees; and after this ceremony, the water is led into what they
call the khalix, or grand canal, which runs through Cairo, whence it
is distributed into cuts for supplying the fields and gardens. The
irrigation is effected by machinery. This being done, and the waters
beginning to retire, such is the fertility of the soil that the labor
of the husbandman is next to nothing. Nothing can be more charming than
the prospect which the face of the country presents in rising corn,
vegetables and verdure of every sort. Oranges and lemons perfume the
air; dates, grapes, and figs cheer the eye; and palm trees which afford
the means of making wine, are blooming and abundant. March and April
are the harvest months, and they produce three crops, one of lettuces
and cucumbers, (the latter being the ordinary food of the inhabitants,)
one of corn, and one of melons.