Return to San Blass. Description of the Town. Strikes a Spaniard,
and resists the Police. Is placed in the Stocks. Goes on board
the Tammercee. The Captain is employed to take a quantity of Gold
to England. Fight between the Officers. Anchor at Tehuantepec for
Dye-Stuffs. Precaution used against Scorpions, Centipedes, &c.
Arrival at Panama. Scenes on Shore. Arrive at Callao. Ride to Lima.
Description of Lima. Arrival at Valparaiso. Again double the Cape on
the wings of the wind. Arrival at Liverpool. Sketch of the City.
Getting in a cargo of dry goods, we set sail for San Blass. Smoothly we
glided down the La Plata, having a gentle west wind which lasted till
we made the Falklands.
Seemingly unwilling we should double the Cape with any degree of
pleasantness, it veered round to the south, and freshening each moment,
soon blew a hurricane which lasted thirty-six hours. When moderating,
and at the same time shifting into the east, we braced full, and stood
for the Cape; for eleven days the wind continued in the east, and gave
us a fine passage around the Cape. We were accompanied on our way by a
large Iceberg of the largest dimensions, which kept within half a mile
of us for twenty-four hours.
The wind again, in a very accommodating manner, turned in our
favor, driving us before it with great velocity under close reefed
main-top-sail and fore-sail, for fourteen days, at which time we
reached Valparaiso. Still favoring, though more lightly, we were
enabled to reach San Blass in about the same time required for the
outward bound voyage. Discharging our cargo we were paid off. I then
went to the city of San Blass, which is five or six miles from the
beach. As I remained there but a short time, I cannot be expected to
give a full account of the city, which is situated on an eminence which
rises an hundred or two feet gradually from the sea; and is enclosed by
a huge wall, having only two gates or entrances into it. One of these
is on the north side; the other, on the west side. A part of the wall
which faces the sea, is built upon a ledge of rocks which rise almost
perpendicular, and forms an impregnable barrier. The walls are heavily
mounted with guns on the side towards the sea, and manned continually.
The dwellings are mostly built of stone of ancient architecture; low
and covered with tiles. The streets are narrow and dirty, though mostly
paved with stone. Dissipation is carried in every thing to a great
length. The inhabitants are, in a great degree, low and sensual. One
day, while on shore, I traded with a Spaniard, with whom I had a few
hasty words; his insolence I could not bear, and gave him a severe blow
which felled him to the ground. Seeing the police on the alert I ran
for the sea. Soon they overtook me. I gave the first one a blow, and
threw him over a wall down a bank of a few feet. Finding more than I
could easily handle, I surrendered. I was taken before the governor,
who caused me to be placed in the stocks for twenty-four hours.
I had my hands, feet, and neck, placed in the stocks, which was in
the hot sun, upon the burning sand, during the day; I had to look
continually up to the sun, and ere night was almost blind; my face
badly swollen, and almost blistered. Swarms of mosquitoes and fleas
visited me at night, each paying their respects, leaving an impression
upon my feelings. Crowds of natives gathered around, offering me every
insult they were capable of doing. When I was taken from the stocks
I could hardly walk or stand, and it required several days for me to
regain the use of my limbs to any comfortable degree.
Soon as I was able I crawled down to the shore, and fell in with
Captain Masters, of the ship Tammercee of Liverpool, whither he would
sail in a few days. Knowing he was in want of hands, I offered myself
for thirty-seven dollars per month: this he was unwilling to give.
Meeting him again in a few days, he said he had seen my former captain,
who gave me a good character, and a reputation as a seaman, therefore
he would give me the desired wages.
I went on board and was given the second mate's duty, which the ship
carpenter had performed.
At evening the captain selected six of us to follow him on shore.
We went to a house where there was a quantity of gold coins, mostly
doubloons. He ordered us to take as many as we could carry, and go for
the ship. This was done twice, and daylight coming on, we were deterred
from going again. This was the property of resident merchants, who
wished to make a deposit in the Bank of England, and were obliged to
resort to this expedient on account of the laws, which prohibited their
removal. We received a present from the merchants of a doubloon each
for our services, and as a sort of bribe to keep silence.
The third day after I shipped on board we set sail. This was quite the
latter part of May, 1838. Mr. Evans (mate) came on board in a state of
intoxication, which was the cause of hard words between him and the
captain, who was a person capable of the highest degree of excitement.
The captain becoming enraged, seized a spyglass and hurled it at the
mate, striking him on the head and brought him to the deck; collecting
himself, he passed it back in the same way, but missed his aim.
Exasperated to a still greater degree, the captain rushed to the cabin
and brought forward a pair of pistols, intending to shoot the mate
down. His wife being aboard, and seeing by his manner there was likely
to be trouble, rushed up first and placed herself between him and the
mate, bidding him fire if he chose. A moment sufficed to cool him down
in a measure, and the matter was dropped by putting the mate off duty
for ten days.
We came to anchor at the Gulf of Tehuantepec, or the roadstead of
Rosario, and moored with a swivel.--We sent down the top-gallant masts
and yards, and got ready to take on a cargo at Nicaragua.
The shore at this place as well as most others on the Mexican coast is
almost inaccessible, from the high rolling surf, which at this time
was altogether so for the boats. There are but few harbors in Mexico;
consequently we anchored the long boat out about sixty fathoms from the
beach, and erected a capstan on the shore; a block was fastened to the
bow of the boat, through which a hawser was passed, which also went
around the capstan on shore, thus forming a continuous line from the
boat to the shore. Natives were employed to lash the wood, which is cut
in sticks about four feet long, to one side of the hawser and pull upon
the other, and thus convey it to the boat, where men were stationed to
untie and load it into other boats, and then to the ship. This wood
is very rough, and full of holes and crevices, into which scorpions,
centipedes, and a small blue snake, of five or six inches in length,
crawl. On removing or handling it, they run out and bite the first
object that comes in their way or happens to touch them.
The bite or sting of the scorpion is said to prove fatal many times
in two hours; their bite in the spring and summer months are said, by
Pike, to be much more suddenly fatal. He also says, in speaking of them
as found in other portions of Mexico: "remove them three leagues and
they become perfectly harmless and lose all their venomous qualities."
As a preventive we took three bottles of spirits, (old rum) and put a
scorpion in one, a centipede in another, reserving the third for the
snake; they were put in alive and allowed to die in the spirits. These
to be used by applying the spirits of the respective bottles to the
wounds of the different species. Fortunately for us but one was bitten,
which was cured by immediate application of the spirits.
A disturbance arose to our quiet one day between the captain and one of
the crew, which resulted in throwing the sailor on shore, one hundred
miles nearly from a habitation of any kind, except temporary ones
erected by the natives who came from Acapulco, 100 miles distant, to
cut and deliver the wood to ships. Seeing a shipmate thus turned off,
without clothes except those worn off, with no particular means of
subsistence, was more than I could endure, and I resolved to assist
him. The next morning I went to the long boat as usual, taking with me
two shirts and a pound of tobacco rolled up as compactly as possible.
Getting to the boat I jumped over and swam as far as I could, then
caught hold of the hawser for the surf or swells to pass me; dropping
into the smooth sea I exerted every nerve to reach the shore before the
next sea; this I was unable to do. Soon the next swell was upon me, and
by its impetus I was thrown high upon the sand insensible. The natives
took me up and rubbed me for a long time before I could be brought to a
state of consciousness, when they gave me some spirits to drink, and in
a few hours I was enabled to walk out.
At night the ship's boat was sent to take me off; the surf running so
high rendered it impossible to do so, only by rowing above about five
miles to a small cove. Going on board I met the captain at the gangway,
who said:
"Well, boy, how is that old pelt of yours? have you got it scorched
any?"
"No, sir" said I; "I have had too much experience in that business, to
have the sun effect me any more than it does an alligator!"
Having finished our cargo we weighed anchor, double reefed our
top-sails, set our course and stood off. Our vessel being a fast
sailer, and the wind blowing a half gale from the west, soon brought us
abreast of Panama. Being in want of ship stores, we put into the bay of
the same name, and came to anchor. Sent a boat on shore and procured
a supply of water, which was of the finest quality, and necessary
stores, and were again ready for sea.
The afternoon previous to sailing we were allowed on shore, when we
fell in with a company of soldiers belonging to the fort. With them we
drank several times. Finding at length I was growing quite stupid--an
effect altogether different from what liquor usually produces on me,
I was confident it had been drugged for some purpose. Seeing the sad
dilemma into which we were hastening, I proposed to walk out and work
it off if possible. But we were already within their clutches. They
followed and easily prevailed upon us to visit the fort to "enjoy a
view of it by lamplight." I was conscious they were imposing upon us,
still I could not stop; their serpent-like charms were successfully
thrown around me; to resist I could not. They led us in and about
the fort, pointing out its particular points of combined beauty and
strength. We thought no more of duties on ship-board, or of our
situation, till a late hour at night, when the effects of the drugs
were leaving us.
In the morning the true nature of our situation found itself upon
us. With apparent satisfaction we sent out for a bottle of spirits,
which was soon brought to us. On looking around a little we found
others decoyed and confined in a like manner; among them was a stout,
seven-foot Irishman. We gave him a good supply of spirits, and
then held up to his view the great wrong we as well as himself had
sustained. Gradually the true Irish blood was seen to work in his
bosom, as he reflected upon his situation and wrongs, until he became
perfectly exasperated. Clenching his fists, he said:
"An' sure we'll be after leaving this place, we will."
He became violent in threatenings. The guard hearing a noise, came to
learn the cause. Soon as the door was opened, the guard was seized and
hurled by his arm, (now rendered doubly powerful by alcohol and anger,)
half way across the yard. Others following closely up, were passed
along also, till half a dozen were thus promiscuously piled up, scarce
knowing how to find themselves. With a mighty effort we then rushed
over those that stood outside the door, who in their dismay knew not
what to do till so late that action would have been fruitless.
We ran as fast as possible to the beach and seized a boat, and went to
the ship. Telling the mate of the adventure, he immediately lowered a
boat and sent for the captain, who was on shore; meanwhile he got the
anchor up and was ready for sea.
The captain coming aboard, we bid farewell to Panama, leaving our
harbor fees unpaid.
What became of the Irishman I never knew, as he took a different course
from the rest of us after leaving the fort.
Nothing of note occurred until we were off the coast of Peru and
dropped our anchor at Callao, the seaport of Lima, the capital of Peru,
which is situated seven miles from the shore. After the ship was well
secured, a ride was proposed to Lima, in which several of us joined. We
proceeded to a stable in which were a great number of horses, trained
to the saddle alone. Each procured one by paying a dollar in advance,
with which a ticket also was obtained for entrance into the city. Those
horses were so well trained that they required no guidance whatever;
by simply throwing the line upon the neck loosely, they set off into a
fine gallop, which they held till they reached the city.
On starting we received an urgent injunction to "look well to the
saddle," they care but little about the horse. Arriving at the gates
of the city, a sentry appeared who demanded our tickets, which, after
examining, he handed back and allowed us to pass on. The horses
setting off at full gallop soon brought us to another stable, which
is connected with the one at which we obtained our horses. Here we
dismounted, giving ourselves no farther trouble about them. We wandered
around the city as long as we chose. When returning to the stable we
found our horses refreshed, with no additional expense, and ready to
take us back to Callao.
The waters of the Rimac, on which Lima is situated, are clear and
transparent. The city is four miles long, by two broad, and is
surrounded by brick walls, which are heavily mounted with cannon.
This city, next to Mexico, is the finest built by the Spaniards in
the New World; its streets are straight and handsome; the houses are
built only of one story, on account of earthquakes by which they are
frequented. Lima was founded by Pizarro in 1534, and by him called _Los
Reges_, or the "City of the Kings." Like all other Spanish cities,
Lima has a great square in the centre, where all the principal streets
terminate. On this square the principal public buildings stand; such as
the cathedral, the university, the treasury, the arsenal, and the town
hall.
The churches and convents are still beautiful, though robbed of
vast wealth during the last revolution. It is estimated that about
one-fourth of the population are whites.
Leaving Callao we had a fine breeze, set studding-sails alow and aloft.
When abreast Valparaiso, the wind veered around into the south and blew
a stiff breeze, which obliged us to lay off and on for a few days. The
wind dying away, we put into the harbor of Valparaiso, which is the
most singular one I ever entered. The water is of vast depth, being
upwards of fifty fathoms within a short distance of the town. We spent
some little time on shore, which we enjoyed very finely indeed; found
the natives kind and hospitable. The men follow the European fashion of
dress, while the females adhere strictly to that of Peru. Many of the
common and lower classes wear the ponsha, which is simply a large cloth
with a hole in it for the neck. In the use of the lasso they equal if
not excel any other people, throwing it with the greatest precision.
Children at an early age practice the lasso upon poultry and cats,
which they throw with unerring aim.
By the gradual change in the temperature of the atmosphere we were
forcibly reminded of nearness to the Cape, which we were again to
double. Finding the quantity of spirits on hand insufficient as we then
thought for the occasion, we told the captain we would not double the
Cape with so small a supply. Against this he remonstrated. We urged him
to compliance.
After spending a week at Valparaiso, we left the harbor and stood at
sea with a fair wind from the west; thus we ran about thirty-six hours,
when the wind hauled into the north.
"Dreary and hollow moans foretold a gale;
Nor long the issue tarried; then the wind,
Unprisoned, blew its trumpet loud and shrill;
* * * * the rain
Came down like music."
The fore and main royals were clewed up; the breeze still freshening,
we clewed up and stowed the fore and main-top-gallant sails, running
thus until near daylight, when we single reefed the top-sails. At
twelve that day, were under close reefed main-top-sail and reefed
fore-sail, bounding along at the rate of twelve knots per hour. Thus we
ran until we sighted Terra del Fuego. As we hauled around the Cape the
wind seemed to follow us; the sea ran quarterly on the vessel and very
high.
A heavy sea struck us on our quarter, and hove her on her beam ends;
immediately letting go the fore sheet relieved her, and again she
righted, broaching to as she done so. Hauling up and stowing her
fore-sail, we hove her to, headed towards the Atlantic. The wind
again shifted into the southwest, and abated somewhat, still the sea
ran high indeed. We made all sail possible and drove her through the
swells; sometimes she would scoop up water with her bows and throw it
off astern, washing the men about deck in spite of all efforts to the
contrary.
The weather was intensely cold, and, had we been compelled to have
staid there much longer, I fear we should have frozen to death, for our
clothes were already stiff with ice.
The wind continued in the southward till we reached the entrance of
St. George's Channel; cast lead and found sixty fathoms of water; then
bearing full, we saw Cape Clear in a few hours. The wind heading us
blew down the channel for three days, during which we could make no
progress at all. This seemed indeed tedious, being so near our port of
destination. The wind springing up, and all sail set, we ran up the
channel for Liverpool; took in a pilot at Holy Head, who hove us to at
the Old Alms Head that night, and took us in the next morning.
As we came along the pier head we hired men to secure the sails, such
was our anxiety to be on shore. The next day we were paid off, and took
our chests to the boarding-house.
Liverpool, at the mouth of the Mersey, on the Irish Sea, is an
important commercial city, being next to London, the greatest port in
the British empire.
It is situated from Manchester thirty-six miles, and two hundred
and four from London. The city is irregularly built, but the public
buildings are elegant.
The Exchange is double the size of the Royal Exchange of London, and
cost the immense sum of £100,000.
The Town Hall is another noble edifice.
Liverpool is the grand medium through which the trade of England with
Ireland and with this country is carried on; and a vast quantity
of business is transacted by its merchants with the ports of the
Mediterranean, East Indies, and other parts of the world. Cotton is the
leading article of import, and is extensively used in the manufactures
of Lancashire, of which, in 1830, out of 793,695 bales imported into
England, 703,200 were brought into Liverpool.
The duties paid at the custom-house of Liverpool in 1837, were four
millions, three hundred and fifty-one thousand, four hundred and
ninety-six pounds, being about a fifth of those paid throughout the
whole kingdom.
Liverpool is the greatest outlet for the goods manufactured in
Lancashire and Yorkshire, for sale in America. The town, thus so
extensively concerned in that commerce from which England derives
its chief glory, presents many external features not unworthy of its
mercantile character. Of these the chief are the _docks_, the sight of
which, bristling with numberless masts, and a scene of constant bustle
from loading and unloading, fills a stranger with amazement. The town
contains several handsome streets, the chief being Castle street and
Dale street. There are many well conducted charitable institutions.
About fifteen hundred patients are admitted annually in the infirmary.
The Blue-Coat hospital maintains and educates about two hundred boys
and girls.
The school for the blind is on a most extensive scale.
A handsome and spacious theatre, and a circus, are open during a great
part of the year.
At the Royal Liverpool Institution, public lectures are given; and
attached to it is a philosophical apparatus and a museum of natural
curiosities.
A Botanic Garden was established in 1801, at the expense of about ten
thousand pounds.
Among the remarkable objects connected with the town, the ornamental
cemetery of St. James, formed out of an old stone quarry, is worthy of
particular notice.