Sail for the North West Coast. Am required to sign the ship's
articles. Trouble with officers. Anchor at New Archangel. Dogs trained
to the harness. Leave the ship. Fall in with an Indian hunting party.
Their manners and customs. Humanity of an Indian. Return to St. Lucas.
Goes over land to St. Josephs. Lives with a Catholic priest. Narrow
escape. Arrive at San Blass. Ship for Buenos Ayres. Fearful passage of
the straits of Magellan in a storm. Description of Buenos Ayres.
I was left upon a miserable shore among the Spaniards with whom I
could hold no conversation whatever. Their proverbial hospitality was
extended to me during the few days I was to remain there.
The brig Congress, Capt. Strong, of Valparaiso, bound for the N. W.
Coast, coming to anchor there, I shipped myself on board, for eighteen
dollars per month.
Watering the ship we proceeded to Sir F. Drake's bay, where we
attempted to take some Sea Elephants, but did not succeed. Here we
remained only a few days.
Again we weighed anchor and stood to sea before a fine breeze.
Spreading our studding-sails to a strong south wind we glided swiftly
on.
When out to sea all hands were called and the ship's articles read, and
those who had not signed them, were requested to do so at that time.
The articles forbid our trading with any person on shore, under the
penalty of forfeiting our wages. Turning around, I said "Well, boys!
here we are, under martial laws, but I don't see the pendant flying."
The captain flew into a perfect rage, and came up to me asking, "What
did you say, _sir_?" I laughingly said, "I have no handle to my name
yet." At this he was still more enraged than before, and told me to
stop my sauce, at the same time called upon Mr. Williams, the mate, to
put me in irons.
I told them they had better be passed by, for there would most
certainly difficulty attend it, for I knew the crew would not suffer it
to be done.
At this instant the steward appeared with a pair of pistols, which he
laid on the companion.
Old Jack, as he was called, a rough old fellow, being then at the
wheel, seeing them, came forward and threw them overboard, saying he
should like to be a participator in the affair, and bid the master be
quiet for he was there himself.
Strong seeing there was no alternative, let the matter drop, and all
things went on harmoniously till we arrived at Nootka Sound.
One morning, being released from the wheel which I had held for six
hours, I was told there was no breakfast for me. Taking the kid (a
small wooden dish which our meat, potatoes, &c., are put in) under my
arm, I walked up to the captain, and said, "I would thank him for some
meat for breakfast." He replied, "You have had meat enough, if not, eat
the kid."
"Well, sir," said I, "you shall have the first taste and see how you
like it," at the same time giving him a hearty slap in the face with
it, knocking him over, when I asked him if it was seasoned too high or
not. The mate caught me by the neck, saying, "you mutinous rascal, do
you mean to take the ship?" and dealt me a blow. The kid, still with
me, was submitted to his decision. I then ordered them to put me on
shore, which, as they could not mould me into any shape they wished,
they concluded to do at Nootka.
When we came to anchor, I packed my clothes and prepared to start. When
all was ready, I bid an adieu to captain, crew, and ship, and stepped
into the boat, when most of the crew came forward with their things
also packed, declaring their intention of leaving if I did. The captain
seeing the dilemma he would be in should such be the case, recalled me,
offering me kind treatment and every privilege I could in reason expect.
I again went upon duty. Still I could see the captain and mate had not
entirely lost the taste of the kid. We went on shore. It being the last
of October, the weather was cold indeed. Snow was six or eight inches
deep. Bought furs, hides, tallow, &c. Here we remained five days.
Weighing anchor again, we stood for New Archangel, a Russian
settlement, where we came to anchor. A Russian man-of-war with two or
three other vessels was lying there.
The houses of the people are built of logs and made very warm and
tight. The soldiers were busy drawing wood to the barracks on sledges
with dogs. Ten or fifteen are harnessed to a sledge as the occasion may
require, having a collar and a single trace running over the back. They
are not tied together, but draw independent of each other, each having
a trace by himself, the most docile one having the longest trace, and
is the leader.
The dog that is struck, generally the hind one, draws back and springs
upon the next one, and he upon the next, and so a blow given to one,
seldom fails to produce a general snarling among them.
Ten dogs thus harnessed will draw half a cord of wood at a time, at the
rate of six miles per hour.
Knowing the treatment I should receive when I arrived at Valparaiso
for striking the captain and mate with the kid, I was induced to leave
the ship and try a life with the natives, and persuaded one shipmate
to join me. Accordingly, before the ship was to depart, we went ashore
with the captain, taking what clothes we could possibly wear without
detection. As we made the shore, the captain stepped out, saying he
should be back in a few moments, and bid us not leave the boat at all.
Soon as he was out of sight we took to our heels, and made for the
woods, leaving him to officiate in the several capacities of captain,
oarsman, and boat-keeper.
On we traveled until near night, when we heard the sound of some one
chopping wood. Guided by the sound, we followed on, hoping to find
some human habitation. The sound dying away, we heard a low humming or
singing, and on coming upon a little hill, we saw a large fire, which
we at once recognized as the camp ground of an Indian hunting party,
and we resolved to go to them, being almost frozen.
As we came near them the dogs with loud barking aroused the Indians,
who came out with their guns. We hurried on, fearing they might fire
upon us. The dogs gave way and the Indians came forward to meet us a
few rods from the camp.
We shook hands with one and all as a token of friendship. Soon as
they understood our cold and hungry situation, with the spirit of
benevolence which is so justly applied to them, they set about
rendering us as comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of their
humble fare, after which we were nicely wrapped in skins for the night,
when we slept very finely indeed.
Soon as daylight appeared a party was despatched for game for
breakfast. Returning they were richly loaded with one deer, squirrels,
rabbits, and other small game, in great abundance, which was given
to the females, whose duty it is to prepare and cook it. We made a
fine breakfast, after which they made preparations to proceed on
their journey, which lay to the northward. As we wished to go to the
southward we were obliged to part. Again we took one and all by the
hand in token of gratitude for kindnesses shown us.
The clothing of the males consists of a coat of fur which extends below
the knees. Below this they wear a leggin of fine fur neatly wrought
with shells of various kinds and colors. Over the shoulders is thrown
loosely a blanket or cloak, also made of fur. The head is covered with
feathers wrought into a cap-like form. Their arms are a hatchet, knife
and gun. Their habitation, the wide world, having no place whatever
they call home, pitching their tents of skins where night overtakes
them.
The dress of the females differs from that of the males somewhat. The
cloak or mantle is made to cover the whole body, and large enough to
allow the mother to carry the child upon her back, its legs resting
across its mother's hips and its head above the mantle. The mother
carries her child upon her back until it is three or four years old,
when, if a boy, the father trains him to hunt; if a girl, she is taught
to dress the food and cure the skins.
Near the close of day we fell in with another Indian who was hunting
alone, with two dogs. Soon as we came in sight the dogs started to come
for us, and had not the hunter held them till we came up, would have
done so. The moment he shook hands with us they seemed to understand we
were friends, and would play around us like kittens. He asked in broken
English, "where go?" We told him to New Archangel. Placing his hand
upon his breast said, "me go," meaning he would accompany us.
The dogs coming upon track of some animal, sprang off and were soon
lost from sight. The hunter hearing their bark, bent his ear to the
ground to catch the sound and determine the distance, and sprang away.
Soon we heard the sharp report of his rifle, at the same time he gave
a loud whoop as a signal to us. We followed on and found him with a
deer nearly dressed, the dogs lying by his side, waiting their portion.
Folding up the skin, he quartered him and cut a portion up for the
dogs. Going to the side of a high ledge, he built a fire and roasted
one quarter, which we nearly devoured. Taking the remainder on our
shoulders we followed the Indian. The moon shining very brightly added
much to the pleasantness of the scene. Gaining an eminence our friend
gave a loud whoop which was answered by some one in the distance.
Smilingly he said, "man--man," and renewed his pace. Soon we came to a
large fire, around which were seated a number of Indians, who arose as
we came up and extended the hand, welcoming us to their camp.
After again partaking of roasted venison we were shown to our bed,
which was simply a skin warm from the back of a deer, spread upon the
snow, having another thrown over us. The fire is kept burning during
the night. With the first light of morning we were called to breakfast,
which was ready, the person who watched the fire having cooked it,
which consisted again of roasted venison.
This being over we bade adieu to all except the one with whom we went
to the camp, and started for New Archangel, at which place we arrived
before night; found the vessel gone. We then shook hands with the
Indian in token of gratitude for the assistance he had afforded us,
when with tears in his eyes he said, "me love do good."
Often have I read, when a boy, of the kindness of the North American
Indian to the weary, wandering white man, even while hostilities were
raging between them; and at the very time we were shown to the paths
of civilization, our American Congress were legislating on the best
means for their utter annihilation, calling to their aid the Cubian
bloodhounds.
Here we found a man, formerly of New York, who had been in the Russian
service twenty years, and was at that time purser or clerk of the ship,
and was then bound to Mazatlan, in Mexico. Through him we obtained an
opportunity of working our passage to that place.
With light hearts we left the N. W. Coast for a more genial clime. On
arriving at St. Lucas I thought I would leave the ship, as I had been
previously somewhat acquainted there, while my shipmate went on to
Mazatlan.
As was my happy lot I fell in with the same persons I met with in my
other visit, who seemed delighted at my return. I remained with them
a few days, when it was proposed that I should accompany them to St.
Josephs, about seventy miles, to attend Christmas, to which I readily
assented, caring not whither I went. At about three o'clock in the
afternoon we started, seven of us, all mounted on asses, following one
after the other. Coming to a large field, we turned our asses loose
that they might refresh themselves, while we cooked a hasty supper.
Again we mounted and were under way, having then about fifty miles
to go. They being anxious to reach St. Josephs that night rode very
fast. About twelve they suddenly stopped, dismounted and ordered me to
do the same. Standing a few moments, the asses knelt and commenced a
tremendous braying. The Spaniards kneeling by their sides, went through
a sort of prayer. This I suppose was in commemoration of the day. Why
the asses should thus kneel was a great mystery to me. I could not
believe it to be intuitive, yet I did not see any sign by which the
wish of the Spaniard was made known, and to this day my mind is not
satisfied about the matter.
We reached St. Josephs about sunrise, rode up to the Chapel, before
which the Spaniards crossed themselves many times, then to the dwelling
of the Padre or Priest, where the like crossing was performed. The
asses were then put out in a large field, where were nearly three
hundred. All persons coming thither for the observance of Christmas
were allowed to place them there.
About noon an interpreter came with one of the Spaniards, and asked me
if I would take charge of the priest's horses and do his out-of-door
work. This I was willing to do, and immediately went upon the duties.
Things passed along finely for a few weeks, when I became acquainted
with an American pedler, through whom I ignorantly became embroiled
with the priest and came near losing my head in consequence. I knew
nothing of the affair until the officers were actually on the track for
me, when I fled with my best abilities for the harbor, which was eight
miles from St. Josephs, over hills and through swamps, swimming one or
two little streams.
On reaching the water I plunged in and swam for a sloop which was
laying out a little. The mate threw me a rope by which I crawled up the
ship's side. I told him my story, at which he seemed much pleased. He
said if the captain was aboard, I should be sent on shore, but as it
was he would try to save me. He took me below and secreted me, where
the captain would know nothing of it, leaving me provision to last till
they would be out to sea, which would probably be on the return of the
captain.
The sloop was owned by the captain, who was an Irishman, and all of
the crew were either French or Spanish, except the mate, who was an
Englishman.
The captain came, hoisted anchor, and stood out to sea. When the bustle
attendant upon leaving the harbor was over, the captain related the
story as he heard it at St. Josephs, which at that time had gained
great publicity there. It was his opinion I should lose my head, for
he was sure I should be taken. The mate hearing what the captain had
to say respecting it, called me from my hiding place, to tell my own
story. The captain was greatly astonished, and for a moment hesitated
whether he should not put back with me; and I think perhaps he might
have done so, had not the mate strongly remonstrated with him.
It was long a question with them how they should work the affair with
the Alcalda (or governor) of San Blass, who would most certainly come
aboard, either in person or by his vigilant officers, for the ship's
papers, &c. Upon my repeatedly promising to keep my own counsel he
agreed to write me a passport and forge the Alcalda's name of St.
Josephs.
The passport was written and signed, and on handing it to me, he said,
"Jack, you no lie." Again I told him I would not expose him, even
on the pain of death. The third day we reached San Blass. We were
no sooner in the harbor than the officer was aboard for the papers.
Seeing me, he asked in Spanish who I was, and was informed I was from
St. Josephs. He asked for my passport, which after examining, he
returned to me. Leaving the sloop I went on shore and joined a Mexican
man-of-war-brig, which was laying there protecting the harbor. Mexico
and Columbia were then in a state of hostility towards each other.
We cruised around the gulf a few days, and again stood for San Blass;
running upon a reef we bilged our vessel. Thinking I had served long
enough in the Mexican service, I took my clothes, without saying a
word to the officers, and went on shore.
Finding the brig Romance, Capt. Johnson, lying there, bound for Buenos
Ayres, laden with Indigo and cocoa, I shipped myself on board. The
cocoa, with which we were laden, is a small nut, of the size of a large
chestnut, from which chocolate is made; it grows in pods like peas, and
is cultivated like corn yearly.
We spread our sails to a steady, strong north wind, as much as we
could possibly stagger under. Stowed anchors, and made all things snug
about deck. Sailed under Peruvian colors to avoid detection. As we
came abreast Panama, the wind died away, and left us almost becalmed
for a few hours, when it veered around to the northwest, suddenly, and
freshened into a stiff breeze, which wafted us nearly to the Straits
of Magellan, as quick, I think, as ever vessel sped before the wind.
Here the wind, without seeming to cease for a moment, turned into
the south and blew a perfect gale. We hove her to under close reefed
main-top-sail, for five days, when we wore ship, and stood in shore,
the wind still continuing in the south. The Captain concluded to try
the Straits the next day, rather than risk doubling the Cape with such
a wind.
The Straits of Magellan lie in about 53° south latitude, and were
discovered by Fernando Magellan, whose name they bear; they are about
350 miles long, and are at the Pacific entrance, 25 miles wide, and the
eastern side about 20. In some parts they are not more than a league
broad. The general form is that of a crescent, while the whole course
is zigzag. The Pacific side is several feet the highest, causing a
current so strong as to bid defiance to its passage from the eastern
side. The sides are lined with high and craggy rocks, rising almost
perpendicularly. Over them the Magellan clouds, so called from their
position, always are seen, and to a great distance, apprising the
mariner of his proximity to the almost only place which he allows
himself to fear,--Cape Horn.
The next morning came with the wind still blowing from the south; we
made preparations for entering the Straits as was proposed. The flaws
of wind which struck the vessel with the strong current, hurried us
on with the rapidity of lightning. We were obliged to stand by the
halyards and braces constantly, night and day, so often were we called
upon to tack ship, in consequence of the many crooked turnings in our
course, and flaws of wind which struck us from all quarters, breaking
over the high rocks, which lined the straits.
The rocks which lined the shore were capped with snow and ice, which
seemed ready to fall and crush us. Innumerable quantities of seals were
seen lying along the shore. Shrimp and penguins also were seen in great
numbers.
As we neared the Atlantic side, the wind and the force of the current
became less. This distance was performed in forty-five hours from the
time we entered the western side; and during the time not a man of us
left the deck, except in pursuance of some order.
Getting a good offing, we shaped our course for Buenos Ayres, where
we landed, six weeks after leaving San Blass. Discharging our cargo,
we were allowed a little time on shore, which I readily improved in
wandering about the city. The La Plata, on which Buenos Ayres stands
at a distance of 200 miles, is about 170 miles wide at its mouth, and
can be navigated by large ships to a distance of 800 miles.
The situation of the city is delightful. The houses are built of brick,
with flat roofs, and of one story usually, though some are seen two
stories high; a garden is usually attached.
The public buildings are a Palace, Royal Chapel, a most magnificent
Cathedral, and many Churches. The principal square faces the La Plata,
and is indeed very spacious.
There is no harbor at Buenos Ayres; and ships can only come within
seven or eight miles of the town, where they discharge their cargoes
into lighters, which take them ashore.
The population is about 70,000, consisting of whites, Indians, and
negroes. Slaves are quite numerous, and are treated much better than
in any other place I ever visited. The old are particularly well
attended to. The climate is indeed favorable to health. Violent winds
are often-experienced, which raise clouds of dust, filling their houses
completely, and almost entirely obscuring the sun.
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