Speak several vessels. Massacre at Keppell's Island. Touch at the Duke
of York's Island. Find a tomb. Electrical eel. Conduct of a negro, who
makes much sport. Land Lobster. Land at Cohannah. Improper conduct of
the captain. A storm off Hawaii. Anchor at Honolulu. Its description.
Scenes on shore. Sports of the surf. Arrival at Sir Francis Drake's
Bay. Scenes on shore. Cruise about the different islands. Proposed
mutiny. The author leaves the ship.
We spoke the Aramata, of New London, which was then steering for the
Marquesas, where she was intending to get water and provisions. They
informed us of the recent massacre of the whole crew except a boy, of
an English ship at Keppell's Island. The Aramata touched there for wood
and water, and after dropping the anchor lowered away and pulled for
the shore; when they came near the beach their landing was prohibited.
The beach was filled with natives, who were armed with spears and clubs
which they brandished about, going through with every warlike gesture.
They signified to them their reception would be far from a pleasant one.
They put back to the ship, but still remained in the harbor, it being
so near night. Soon the boy who was saved from the massacre came
upon the beach and cautioned them about the natives, for they were
determined to kill every person who should land there.
He was then suddenly snatched away by the natives. From what they
could learn from the boy, they were induced to be on their guard. About
midnight a number of canoes were seen to pull towards them. All hands
were called, and arms put in readiness. As they came stealthily along
and had almost reached the vessel, they gave them the contents of their
six guns and two pistols, which sent them yelling towards the shore.
This single shot served their entire defeat.
We parted with the Aramata, being unwilling to return to the Marquesas
with them.
About a week after, we spoke the bark James Calvin, of London,
returning from Keppell's Island, with the boy. Capt. Coleman lowered
away his boat with its full complement of men, harpoons, lines and
lances, and went on board of her, while the mate of the James Calvin,
with his boat, crew, and apparatus, came on board our ship. This is
the way ships usually meet at sea. From them we learned the full
particulars of the massacre.
Soon as she heard of it she resolved to go to the island, and at all
hazards take the boy away. As they entered the harbor several of the
natives came to the ship; they suffered them to go aboard, treated
them well, gave them many presents, which won their good feelings. As
they were about leaving, the captain told them, (through a native of
the Sandwich Islands who could talk with them,) that the king of the
Sandwich Islands had sent many presents to their king, which he could
get by coming on board the next day. The next morning the king came on
board, and, as was desired, the boy was brought with him, who was among
the first who came. Soon as the boy was fairly on board, the crew
rushed upon the unsuspecting natives, and drove what few had come on
board over into the sea. Bearing full, they left the harbor.
The boy's story was simply as follows:
The ship came into the harbor, where she lay, the captain thinking to
go on shore the next morning.--About midnight the natives came upon it
in so still a manner, that the watch upon deck did not hear them. Those
they killed, and as the others attempted to come above they were killed
also. The whole crew except six men and the boy were killed on board;
these were taken on shore, and the men killed.
The boy was saved by an old woman who took a great liking to him. The
bodies of those killed on board were brought on shore, and eaten with
the others. All articles of value were taken off, and the ship burned.
Parting with the James Calvin, we stood for the Duke of York's Island,
taking on our way one small whale and three black fish.
Arriving at the island, we lowered away and went on shore, taking our
guns with us. We shot many birds of different kinds, among them was one
called a Mingo, a large and beautiful bird; the back and top of his
wings were a dark gray, the under part of the body and wings were a
bright red. While sailing over our heads he presented a most beautiful
appearance.
We saw no marks of cultivation whatever upon the island, there being
nothing but a long, low, sandy beach, with here and there a grove of
cocoa-nuts and palm trees. We rowed around two or three miles, and
found a little harbor with a beautiful white coral beach. A short
distance from the shore we found a mound, which was evidently the
resting-place of some person whom Fate appointed to die at that
desolate place.
This was made by laying a wall of stone about seven feet long and
two wide, being about fifteen inches high. The stones were laid very
closely together, so as to keep out the land lobsters and crabs that
swarmed the island.
On the wall the coffin, or box, was placed and arched over with stone
and wood with a kind of cement. The whole was nearly overgrown with
moss.
A negro belonging to the ship on coming to it, said he had dreamed
three successive nights of finding a vast amount of money, and believed
this to be the spot. He set about beating it down, but was driven from
it.
Our attention was aroused by the loud cries of one of the crew. When
we arrived at the spot, we found him with an enormous land lobster,
which he had attempted to catch, linked to his thumb so firmly as only
to be removed by breaking the claw. These in shape resemble the water
lobster, though much larger. Our friend did not attempt to "catch the
Tartar" again. We took the lobster to the boat and tied him up, so that
he would not run away. They run very fast, drawing their huge claws on
the ground after them.
Again we went a cruising, and came to a little cove about half a mile
in length and about half a mile also in width, being nearly dry at low
tide. One of the crew saw a large eel of a greenish color lying quietly
in the mud. Thinking to have a little sport, he took a stick and gave
him a blow, which was paid back with interest. The stick flew from his
hands, and he yelled loud enough to be heard half a mile. He found this
to be a large electrical eel, who was not to be trifled with.
Other fish are seldom found within their haunts. They live imbedded in
the mud until driven therefrom, when with all their venom they dart
at the offender, or the first object that comes in their reach. The
first blow of a large one would kill any of the human species. When
in a state of weakness or nearly exhausted, the sensation produced is
quite like that given by a galvanic battery or an electrical machine.
They are often found to be from four to six feet long, and weigh from
fourteen to twenty pounds. In some parts of South America, fording
places are abandoned entirely in consequence of them, it being unsafe
to ride through.
When the horse or mule steps on them as they lie in the mud, they coil
around the legs and against the body, and, with a succession of shocks,
bring the poor animal down, and before he can recover from the shocks
he is drowned. The rider being dismounted, quite likely falls a prey to
some other one, who being fully charged soon puts an end to him.
Finding the nature of the fish, some of the crew being bent upon
having a little sport, went in the boat, got lances, spears, &c., and
commenced an attack upon them. In this I did not join, finding more
sport in watching them, than in contributing as dearly as some of them
did for the amusement of the others.
The negro could not forget his dreamy visions, and was most sanguine in
his belief that the before-mentioned mound contained the object of his
fancy.
Thither he repaired with two or three of his shipmates, myself among
the number, determined to be satisfied respecting it. He took a large
stone and began pounding away at the cement, which was nearly as hard
as the stone itself. Beating a hole through, he assiduously plied
himself to pulling out the stones one after another, until he made a
hole through to the rude box, whence escaped an odor quite unlike that
emanating from a miser's chest. He being so intent upon his errand,
would not now believe but it contained treasure for him, and again went
to work; running his hand through the hole he had made, he pulled out
a piece of a board which Decay had marked as her own, which now fully
convinced him of the certainty of the contents.
Exasperated at this he flew to the tomb, and would not have left one
stone upon another had not we interfered and drove him away, when we
replaced the stones as well as we could.
We next went about securing a quantity of lobsters to take to sea with
us. The negro seeing one run into a hole under the roots of a cocoa-nut
tree, ran his hand in after him, but soon found he had also "caught
a Tartar." He relinquished his hold, but not so with the lobster: he
adhered closely after he was drawn from the hole. The negro jumped
about, making wry faces and yelling loud enough to be heard half a
mile. The bystanders were so much affected at his grimaces, that they
indulged in a hearty laugh, and could not for a moment or two assist
him in the least.
To laugh at any being's calamity is by no means justifiable; but I
think had the most sedate person witnessed the affair, his risibilities
would have been affected to a considerable degree.
We caught about forty and took them to the ship. The next morning none
of them could be found; after much searching we found them dispersed
about the rigging, and for several days we found them in different
parts of the vessel.
I have often heard those better acquainted with their nature than I am,
say, they climb the lofty cocoa-nut tree, pick the fruit, carry it out
upon the ends of the limb over some rock, and drop it, thus getting at
the meat. This I cannot assert as fact, for I never saw it; yet I have
seen hundreds of them on trees; I have seen them take the nut in their
claws and beat it on the stone, and crack the shell.
Leaving the Duke of York's Island, we stood for Fanning's Island, which
is of about the same description as the last-mentioned one.
Here we cruised about a few days, went on shore, and found two huts
that had the appearance of being recently occupied.
From thence we stood for the Mulgrave's group, where we took three
whales. After trying the oil, we went on shore on Cohannah Island,
where there was but little indication of life. On going up a little
creek we saw a smoke in the distance; seeing this I told the captain
it was best to put back to the ship, for should they see the harpoons
and lances in the boats, they would at once consider us as enemies, and
would most likely attempt to murder us.
He would not be persuaded to return, declaring he would land at all
hazards, which was effected with great difficulty, on account of the
surf which ran very high.
The captain took his gun with him, saying he would shoot the first
native he saw. We found several canoes hung up in the bushes. Again
I begged of the captain to return. He turned upon me, calling me a
coward. This epithet I was willing to bear, telling him if he knew
as much of them as I did, he would rather be called a coward than be
caught by them.
Soon the loud war whoop rang in our ears. I told the captain he could
then do as he pleased, but I was going to the boat, and started. I
jumped into the boat and shoved off. The natives were rushing down to
the beach, armed with clubs and spears. The captain was still quite
reluctant about getting in. He drew up his gun ready for firing. This
I remonstrated loudly against, but it did no good. He fired, wounding
one of them in the legs, who fell upon the ground, yelling loudly, and
taking up sand rubbed it on the wound. This to the Captain was much
sport, but it would not be sport to the next unsuspecting crew that
might touch there, who would without a doubt atone for his folly, for
they would most assuredly be revenged.
We spoke the bark Harriet, of London, on our way to the Barbadoes,
which lie in about 8° 30m' north latitude, and about 175° west
longitude. From them we procured a quantity of Plantain, bananas, and a
few hogs.
From thence we made the Sandwich islands, when to the windward of
Hawaii, about 60 miles, we encountered one of the heaviest gales I was
ever called upon to witness,--carrying our fore-top-mast away by the
cap--main-top-gallant mast and yard, and springing our mizen mast-head.
We put up the helm; squared away our main-yard; loosed, and set the
fore-sail, to run to the leeward to get more sea room. Under this sail
we ran very well, whilst running through the narrows that separate
Hawaii from Mauli, at the distance of thirty miles.
There was a heavy and irregular sea which pooped the ship, and nearly
proved her entire ruin. Clearing the deck of water-casks; sweeping
the binnacle, which contained the compass, from the deck; tearing the
bulwarks from their stations; breaking the rudder at the water's edge,
and nearly killing the man at the helm. Those on deck, seeing the wave
as it arose and was sweeping towards them, caught hold of the rigging,
and thereby saved themselves probably from a watery grave.
In this condition we lay, or rather drifted, at the mercy of the waves,
three days. When the gale abated, we were about a hundred miles to the
southward of the group. We then rigged a jury, or temporary rudder,
made from an old spar, which answered our purpose.
The wind shifting to the southward, we stood nearly before it, running
under reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail; with the greatest care, we
were enabled to make Honolulu, and came to anchor about three miles
from the town. When all was snug, the boat was manned for shore, where
were several whale vessels lying, from which twenty boats were manned
to assist us in towing the ship into the harbor where she was repaired.
There is a coral reef which extends along the harbor about a mile,
leaving only a narrow passage of about one hundred feet for ships to
pass. Ships are generally obliged to be towed into the harbor, in
consequence of the high points which tower high, and becalm them.
At the head of the channel is Diamond head or hill, which is the
principle point on the south side of the island. "This is the crater
of an extinguished volcano--a bare shell of a mountain whose bowels
have been exhausted by fire. It is of circular form, many miles in
circumference, and rises almost perpendicular several hundred feet.
Its sides every where look like seared walls; and are fluted and
furrowed from top to bottom by the washings of water-courses, as if by
artificial workmanship. They are also surmounted in many places by a
kind of moulding, of equally singular formation; and again by blocks
and piles of jagged lava, having in their elevation the appearance of
the parapets and battlements of a dilapidated castle." Between this
crater, and the town of Honolulu, which is about three miles distant,
lies the neat little valley or plain of Waikiki. The road leading to
Honolulu is on both sides lined with cocoa-nut trees, under which, at
intervals of only a few rods, are refreshment stations, which are well
supplied with billiard and card tables, and every means of dissipation.
Dram houses are also very frequent. A more beautiful spot could not be
selected than that leading to Honolulu. Beyond Honolulu, to the west,
lies a wide extent of open country under a fine state of cultivation.
While at Honolulu, I witnessed the execution of twelve natives for
mutiny on board a pearl trader, when off Fanning's island, whither they
resorted after the affair, and erected two huts which I have spoken of
as having seen at that place.
One day, on shore, we saw four men drawing sand in hand-carts--each
man having a native to guard or drive him. Upon inquiry, we were told
they belonged to the ship Kingston of Nantucket; and, for some slight
difficulty with the master, (Capt. Coffin,) they were complained of to
Jones, the consul, who threw them into irons, and subject to six lashes
each morning, and to draw sand during the day. This treatment was to
continue during the stay of the ship; and did until the arrival of the
Potomac, Commodore Downs, who instantly released them, most severely
reprimanding both the Captain and Mr. Jones.
The men being released went on board the Potomac, and some of her men
went with Capt. Coffin. As they went on board, they told the Captain it
was their intention to throw him and his officers overboard, if they
did not use them well. A few days after, the Commodore went on board
the Kingston to see how Coffin liked his new men. He told him he would
most assuredly have trouble unless he treated them well. He also said
he expected to hear from that ship before long, meaning there would,
in his opinion, be trouble. Coffin was considered a bad man, being
overbearing and very irritable with his crew. Once he confined a man
below, and gave him nothing to eat for several days but saw-dust and
molasses.
When the Potomac left the harbor, she was towed by a number of boats
within the influence of the sea breeze, when, giving three cheers
which were answered, she made sail, and was soon out of sight. On our
return to the harbor, some thought to try the surf, which is sometimes
performed in canoes, but usually on what is termed a surf-board, which
is an article of private property among the higher classes, both male
and female, and to some extent among the common people. This is a board
of six or eight feet in length, and from fifteen to twenty inches
wide, rounded down to an edge; the whole surface being made very smooth.
With this under the arm, they repair to the water, and swim into the
surf. As they meet a roller, as it is called, or wave, they plunge
beneath, and let it pass over. Thus they proceed to any desired
distance; sometimes to half a mile out into the open sea, and wait the
approach of a heavy swell, when they throw themselves upon the board
with the face downwards, having the head and body elevated above the
board, and headed for the shore. They skillfully keep themselves upon
the swell with their feet and arms, and are borne with the greatest
velocity upon its foaming crest, with their heads alone visible above
the foam. As they near the shore, they usually slip from the board,
to prevent being thrown upon the sand by the surf. This is repeated
for hours in succession, and hundreds may many times be seen together
riding upon the waves, when they break high above the coral reefs. Four
or five of the boats in trying it upset, and the men were thrown upon
the reef, and much bruised.
We left the harbor of Honolulu about the first of August, 1837, bound
for the coast of California.
Arriving at Point Conception, we lowered away for the shore, taking
three guns with us, where we had much sport shooting deer, rabbits,
and squirrels; also some ducks. Getting a supply of provisions we
squared our yards, and stood down the coast; touched at Gaudaloupe,
an uninhabited island, where we took three seal. This island is much
visited by sealers, in the sealing season, where they are taken in
great quantities.
On our passage from thence found our oil leaking very badly indeed.
Shaped our course for Sir Francis Drake's bay for cooperage. On
arriving at the supposed place, found nothing but a high iron bound
coast, with no possible opening or harbor. The entire crew were
strangers on those shores, and knew not the exact position of the
harbor. Seeing a small narrow opening in the rocks, we fancied it might
lead to the harbor; but it being so near night did not think it prudent
to attempt a passage that night. Lay off and on that night, and in the
morning felt our way into the harbor, which we found to be a very fine
one indeed, being completely land-locked, and large enough for one
hundred sail of ships to lie at a time in perfect safety.
All fell to securing the oil, which occupied the best part of two
days. After the oil was again stowed, and the ship cleaned up, we
were allowed liberty on shore, two at a time, furnished with guns and
ammunition; shot a great number of penguins and pelicans, which were
very tame, allowing us to get quite near them. At one time, we saw four
animals of the wolf species, though much smaller than those of the more
northern regions. They were standing at our usual place of landing,
picking the meat from the shells with which the rocks abound, and known
as the California shell.
Not liking to land among them, we lay at our oars, making a great
noise; this did not intimidate them in the least. Firing at them we
next thought we would try; wounded one of them, at whom the others
flew, and despatched him in a few moments. The other gun was soon in
readiness. We fired and killed two; the fourth thinking then it was
high time to be off, ran for the mountains with great speed. Landing,
we took the bodies of the wolves, and laid them by for safety until
we should return to the ship. We went into the mountains, shot at and
wounded several more, but could not get the bodies. Saw an enormous
black bird perched upon a high cliff. We crawled around about to where
he sat when we first saw him; when we got there he had anticipated our
movements, and removed to a point still higher. Saw several smaller
ones, but were not near enough to fire.
It being now near night, we thought we would take a nearer cut to get
to the ship, and accordingly started down the cliff. Coming to an
almost perpendicular place, of some ten or fifteen feet, we questioned
some time whether it was best to jump or go around by another path.
Concluding to jump, we fired our guns to prevent any accident
therefrom. The other threw down his gun, and slid after it in safety. I
followed, but was not so fortunate; falling heels over head, I landed
in a bunch of prickly pears. Having on nothing but thin clothes, which
were no safeguard at all, I was filled, from head to foot, with those
sharp and piercing thorns. From them I suffered very much for a great
length of time. Many of the prickles the sailors picked out of me, the
others remained until they caused a sore, and with the matter passed
off. On a small island, at the entrance of the harbor which we went
into, was the grave of an English Captain, who was murdered by one of
his crew, a Portuguese, in 1830. The officers of the ship threw a lance
at him, and killed him; he was buried at low water mark without coffin
or shroud. On the opposite side of the island we saw a number of
sea-elephants, which are taken for their oil, sometimes.
Spending three weeks at Sir F. Drake's bay, we hoisted anchor and
sailed down the coast, shortening sail and heaving the ship to nights,
so as not to pass over the ground uselessly. Some difficulty arose
between the officers and crew, which occasioned many hard words. A
plot was laid with the crew to murder the officers, run the vessel
into some island and abandon her. I was counted as of them, but under
no circumstances could I have been induced to join them in placing the
finger of harm upon Capt. Coleman. Too nobly had he acquitted himself
in my favor, when upon the island a captive among the cannibals.
They were extremely impatient for the signal for action to be given,
but I kept them in check, promising them a more favorable moment. Thus
I held them till their anger had somewhat died away, and we were at
Cape St. Lucas. Soon as the anchor was let go and the sails furled, I
went to the captain and demanded my pay, also to be put on shore. This
astonished him greatly, as all things had passed pleasantly.
As an explanation of the affair, I simply told him there was a plot
laid, which put in force, would not result in his favor, and advised
him to be on his guard, lest in a single moment all would be lost. For
a moment he hesitated about giving me my discharge, meaning to retain
me, but that he could not do, for I had not signed the ship's papers.
He offered me twenty dollars if I would tell him of the plot and those
concerned, which I would not do, knowing I had already disclosed enough
for him to save himself from all harm with proper care.