Got on shore among the Cannibals. The reception. Description of the
_Tabu_ ground. Visit the scene of the wreck, after the storm subsides,
accompanied by the king and chiefs. Manner of building. Manner of
bathing. The bread fruit. Description of the Carver. The Captain
proposes leaving for Otaheite. Are taken around to the other tribes.
Death of one of our number from the sun's heat. Manner in which the
dead are disposed of.
The next morning, Feb. 3d, 1835, we went on shore. As we reached the
beach, found it lined with natives. Seeing no weapons, we asked by
signs for permission to land. This was readily obtained.
The moment the boat struck the sand, a line of natives was formed on
each side, who laid hold of the gunwales and carried boat and crew up
about twice the length of her, out the way of the waves, and sat it
down. The treatment that was in store for us was quite a query.
Getting out of the boat we were examined from head to foot, being
turned around and around, they during the survey chattering among
themselves with great volubility.
They soon withdrew a short distance, into the tabu ground, and were
a long time in consultation, leaving us standing by ourselves on the
beach. The tabu ground is an enclosure of about an acre, set about with
posts which are wound around with the inner or fine bark of a tree
called Tappa, which is thin and white.
It is dug down about a foot lower than the ground around. Against
this bark flat stones about two feet long are set on the end, nearly
as thick as they can stand. Against these they recline, sitting cross
legged on the ground. In the immediate center is a table made of flat
stones, on which the food at the time of the grand feast is placed. All
public business is transacted here.
[Illustration: RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES.]
[Illustration: THE TABU GROUND.]
After a while they came running very fast towards us. By this we were
fearful they intended us no good, but we were happily disappointed.
They seemed fully to realize the nature of our situation, and
immediately set themselves about ameliorating our condition and
rendering us comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of such as they
had--bread fruit--banannas--raw fish, &c. Of the vegetables we ate
plentifully; the raw fish being an entirely new dish, we passed it
lightly by.
Finishing our repast, we were taken two by two and put at different
families, where all seemed touched by the spirit of sympathy for our
sufferings.
The wind subsiding into almost a calm, we with the _Prua_ (or king) and
chiefs repaired to the boats, and rowed around the point, about three
miles, to where the vessel lay, or rather went on to the rocks, for so
complete was the wreck that there was not enough left of her to leave
even the least trace of a ship discernible.
The rocks against which she struck were not low and shelving, as
is many times the case, but high and bold, rising about fifty feet
perpendicularly, and ranging a mile or two along the coast. The water
at the very base is from fifty to seventy feet deep, thus leaving no
place whatever for any thing to remain on them.
Returning, our boat was taken as before, and landed above the washing
of the sea, and when we got out, was turned over and the oars laid by
for safety.
Night coming on, we were again distributed around among the different
families, where we were made welcome to all they had. Much time was
spent in trying to make us understand them. This we could not do,
except they could convey their ideas to our minds by signs.
It may be well at this period of the adventure to give a description of
the huts or houses, in order to get a more definite idea of the passing
events.
The front side and ends are made by driving posts or sticks of bamboo
into the ground and secured by fastening a strong one across the top.
The roof is made also of sticks of bamboo, serving as rafters, across
which others are fastened, making it very strong indeed. The whole is
then covered with several thicknesses of the largest outspread plantain
leaves. These are also fastened by lashing bamboo across them, being
entirely impervious to the rain. The roof on the front side extends to
within about four feet of the ground, while on the back side it extends
entirely to it.
The door is merely an opening left between the bamboos, when in the
progress of building.
A wall made of flat stones about fifteen inches high, extending along
the front side, occupies about two-thirds of the whole interior of the
dwelling. On this wall, or floor, they perform all the labor of the
family, such as preparing and eating their food. Their provision is
served up in one common dish and placed on the floor, when all gather
around, sitting cross legged, and each with his fingers helping himself.
The remaining one-third is occupied as a bed. This is made of leaves
and dried grass. The head, or that next the roof, is made about ten
inches high, sloping gently down against the wall. Sometimes the whole
is covered with coarse mats made of grass. The sleeper is obliged to
lie on his back, placing his legs, from below the bend of the knee, on
this wall. A severe penalty is attached to the act of placing a foot
on, or throwing any thing on or across the bed. I have no recollection
of the law's ever being enforced, and in fact I cannot say as I ever
knew of its being broken, voluntarily, or otherwise than by accident,
which, except by severely reprimanding the offender, was overlooked.
Great precaution, however, is observed respecting it.
At an early hour we were shown to our beds. The manner of lying was so
unnatural that we could rest but little, longing continually for the
approach of morning. Beside the awkward position in which we lay, we
were continually annoyed by bugs and insects, with which the bed was
literally filled.
In the morning with the first ray of light we were out and upon the
beach. Soon others of our ill-fated companions joined us, who, like
ourselves, found much fault with their lodgings. Ere long the king and
other natives came also upon the beach. While we were talking of our
situation and prospects they would stand by with staring eyes and open
mouths, seeming exceedingly anxious to understand our conversation.
Their morning repast being ready we again returned to our respective
homes.
Our breakfast was composed of bread fruit, raw fish, &c., of which we
partook with appetites sharpened by deprivation and fatigue.
The natives usually bathe each morning, and often many times during the
day near their huts, in a place most beautifully adapted to it.
Out of the rock there pours a stream of clear, cold water, about six
inches in diameter, and twenty-five or thirty feet from the ground,
which falls into a kind of basin from whence it runs into the sea.
Under this the natives jump and most effectually shower themselves.
Should the water coming that distance strike them before it was broken
or separated, they could not stand its force; but such is not the
case, as it breaks soon after leaving the rock, and falls upon a large
surface with but little force.
To this spring ships often come for supplies of water, as there can be
none better found, besides, the quantity wanted is easily obtained.
The bread fruit in its various forms constitutes the principal article
of food among them, and is found in great abundance. There are two
crops in a year; one in May, the other in November. The greater
reliance, however, is placed upon the May crop, which ripens much the
best. The November crop, or what can be spared of it, is collected
and baked in an Euma or oven, which is a large hole dug in the earth
about two feet deep, and from two to five feet across, according to
the quantity to be baked. Large flat stones are placed on the bottom,
on which a fire is kindled; smaller stones are placed in the fire,
which, becoming heated, are removed, the embers nicely cleared out, the
stones are then covered with large green plantain leaves, the fruit
also wrapped in leaves, put in, and the small heated stones put over.
Water is thrown on to create a steam and the whole hastily covered
with earth. After being baked, the covering of earth and stones is
removed, the rind or shell scraped off, and the meat wrapped closely
in leaves is placed in a large hole in the ground dug for the purpose,
being placed so they will not touch each other. After the first layer
is placed, a quantity of leaves are strewn over and another layer put
on. Thus they proceed until the hole is full, when it is covered with
earth and kept in case of a failure of the next or any other crop. It
will keep so for a great length of time. One hole, while I was there,
was found accidentally which was not filled within the recollection of
any then living, and yet the fruit was in a perfect state and as sweet
as when put there. Fruit thus prepared is called May. But if intended
for the family's immediate use, the rind is also scraped off, when it
is pounded to a jelly and mixed with water. This is called _Poe_, and
is taken from the dish by the two first fingers, called "poe-fingers,"
which are thrust into it and twirled swiftly around the poe. Being of
the consistency of paste it adheres to the finger and is thrown into
the mouth. The hands are always washed, both before and after eating.
Any person not doing this is driven from the dish to eat alone, as
being unfit to eat there; though that seldom happens, such laws, or
customs being most strictly adhered to.
As a drink, they use very freely an article called _Carver_, which
is made from a root found in the uplands. After being dug or pulled
it is chewed by the females and put in a calabash of water, when it
ferments, then it is strained through long grass and is fit for use.
This, if drank in copious draughts, causes a dizziness and a horribly
distorted countenance. They lose the use of their limbs, and fall and
roll about on the ground, until the stupefaction wears away.
The Carver is much used for medical purposes, being very efficacious in
its results. If it is taken in great quantities, the skin becomes dry
and parched, and peals off, like the effects of the sun's heat upon the
hand or neck, leaving an entirely new and smooth surface--completely
renovating the entire system.
During my stay there I was bitten by a Centipede on the ball of my
thumb. The Serrever or doctor put me to bed, upon my back, as was
always the position for lying, fastened my hand up to the roof of the
hut, and secured a bark, in a dish-like form, around the wrist, into
which he poured carver. In the morning the pain was entirely removed,
and I suffered no farther inconvenience from it. The bite from them
often results in death.
One curious fact respecting it is, that when chewed by the natives,
it comes from the mouth dry like meal from the mill. This I often
attempted to perform, but was not able to do it.
The females usually prepare it, though they are prohibited its use.
During my stay I knew of but one or two instances of a violation of
that law.
We loitered around the island altogether discontented. I think,
however, we might have lived a few days among them tolerably well, had
not the idea of our being obliged to do so, with no means of getting
away, been so terribly impressed upon the mind.
We visited most of the families in the valley, and at each saw new
scenes. Some were making poe, others braiding mats, while some were
making tappa, oars, spears, &c.
In our rambles we were always accompanied by a score of natives, who
followed us at a little distance, watching our every movement. In one
instance we came to an orange grove, where we stopped to pick some of
the fruit. They came running furiously to us, crying "_tabu! tabu!!_"
at the top of their voices, and taking the fruit from us, drew us from
the spot. This puzzled us not a little. We soon learned, however, that
they had been reserved by the king for some special purpose, who had
_tabued_ them, or placed such restrictions upon them, that no one of
the tribe dare touch them, it being considered a great offence.
The Captain being altogether sick of such a life, proposed going
to Otaheite in the open boat. He urged no one to go with him, but
simply proposed the thing, kindly offering to share his last morsel
with those who should be disposed to undertake it with him. One
after another acceded to his proposition, until all, save myself and
two others, Dawson, a native of Liverpool, England, and Noyce, of
Albany, New York,--had pledged themselves to go. We knowing the utter
impracticability of such an undertaking at that season of the year,
especially, when violent tornadoes swept over that portion of the seas,
accompanied with heavy rains, would not consent to go, choosing rather
to remain with the natives and run the risk of our ever getting away.
The natives were apprised of their wish to go, when they immediately
repaired to the mountains, got them small pigs, a quantity of bread
fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, &c., also a few calabashes of water.
With the most sanguine expectations they started, having nothing to
guide them but a small boat compass, and promising to return and take
us away. Of this we had no hopes, believing it would be an adventure of
constant and unmitigated suffering, terminating in death.
We watched them as long as discernible from the beach, when, unwilling
to lose sight of them, we ascended a high bluff, where with straining
eyes we anxiously followed them, till by night and distance, they were
entirely excluded.
With heavy hearts we returned to the valley, determined to conform,
in every instance, to their whims and notions, however humiliating,
hoping by so doing to obtain their confidence, which would be of vast
importance to us.
After a few days spent among them, in which we most scrutinizingly
watched their every movement, we were taken around to the other valleys
or tribes.
The island is composed of high bluffs, running from the water inland.
Between each mountain or bluff is a low fertile valley through which a
small rivulet courses itself. The banks are lined with orange groves,
bread fruit trees and plantains, &c., which grow in the greatest
luxuriance. These valleys are occupied by different tribes, each
bearing a mark peculiar to themselves. Some bear it upon the hands,
others upon the face, breast, &c. The tribe with which I was connected
bore it upon the hands, wrists and ancles. This was the largest tribe
on the island, called the Teheda.
Each tribe which we visited were exceedingly joyous at our approach,
gathering around and examining us minutely, and almost deafening us
with their confounded gibbering.
At night the huts in which we stayed were filled to overflowing, so
eager were they to see the "_Tehoary_" or white man, as they called us.
We went on day after day. On the seventh day Dawson was taken sick
through the influence of the sun upon his head, or correctly speaking,
was sun struck. At mid-day he would be raving, so much so, as to render
it extremely difficult to take care of him. Destitute as we were of
medicine and medical skill, we could do but little for him. As the day
advanced and the sun declined, he would be more quiet, and remain so
until its approach the next day, when he was again delirious. On the
fourth day he expired in the most excruciating agony.
We had seen death seize upon his victims in almost every form, but
never before had he approached seemingly so near.
As a last sad office to be performed to our departed friend, we set
about digging a grave, as best we could with our rude implements of
digging.
This was not allowed by the natives, who wished to take charge of it
according to their own notions, which was to wind the body closely with
the fine or inner bark of the Tappa, a tree much resembling the paper
mulberry, this to be wound ten or fifteen times around.
The body was then taken to a small uninhabited hut and placed upon
a bench, or table, made by driving sticks of bamboo into the ground,
across the top of which others are fastened, and interlaid, thus
forming a table about two feet high. On this the body was placed, where
it was to remain until it should moulder and crumble away.
The bodies of friends are many times thus wound, and hung by a loop
worked ingeniously in the covering on the top of the head, to the ridge
of the house in which they live, where it remains a considerable time,
when it is taken down, divested of its covering, and placed in the sun,
when the outer surface, or skin, parches, and is easily rubbed off,
which is done with the hand. The entrails are then removed, the body
cleanly washed out, and again wound as before, and hung in its former
place, where it remains until it literally falls in pieces. I have in
one or two instances seen several hanging in one house, completely
filling the house in and around, with the most offensive odor, yet they
live unmindful of it.
The bodies of kings and those of the royal family are placed, after
being wound as before described, in a hut erected on purpose, on or
near the tabu ground, in a sitting posture, with the arms raised, the
elbow bent to an angle, and supported by sticks of bamboo, driven in
the earth. On either side is a man placed, who are taken in war, or
stolen from some neighboring tribe, and sacrificed for the purpose,
also wound in bark. These are supposed to accompany them in the
capacity of servants.
At the expiration of three weeks we returned to our own tribe where we
were most cordially received.
On our arrival we were separated from each other, and not allowed to
meet but very seldom. If by chance however we stole together, we were
instantly torn apart.
Being thus obliged to converse in their language, if at all, enabled
us, at the expiration of some three or four months, to speak it
tolerably well.
This deprivation, change of diet, and the probability of our being
forever doomed to dwell among them, tended much to impair our health.
Our principal occupation was to gather the bread fruit, prepare and
roast it.
[Illustration]