Sail for the "Off shore ground." Cruise for Whale. Come to anchor at
Payta. Desert the ship. Sufferings in the desert. Reach the human
habitations. Are entertained by an old Spaniard, who takes us to
St. Augustine, and delivers us up to the Governor. Thrown into a
Calaboose. Released by the Captain. Sketch of Peru. Proceed to the
Galapagos. Scenes at that group. Rock of Dundas. Sail to the Society
Islands. Run upon the Coral Reef. Loose an anchor. Employ natives to
dive for it. Proceed to the Coast of Japan. Description of the Dolphin
and Flying Fish. A violent storm. Sail for the Sandwich Islands. Touch
at Pitcairns. Desert the ship. Ship on board the brig Doll. Arrive
at Magdalena. Proceed to Wytohoo. Phosphoretic scene. A heavy storm.
Seven men lost. Flee to the boats. The ship runs upon the rocks.
On our return from the volcano, we took on wood, water, and other
necessaries for the voyage, and stood for the "Off shore ground," or
the Coast of Peru, where we cruised two months with the poorest luck.
Sick at heart, we put into Payta, one of the ports of Peru.
The poor success which had attended us, caused the greatest
dissatisfaction among the crew, yet none attributed it to the officers
of the ship. Myself and two others concluded to try our luck in another
way; together we formed a plan to leave the ship, secrete ourselves in
the woods until her departure, we would then return to the shore, and
see what chance would favor us with.
When we were allowed liberty on shore again, we took as much salt beef,
bread, and water, as we could carry without detection, and started
for the woods, which lay but a short distance from the shore; they
were about two miles wide; beyond them lay an immense sand plain or
desert, without bush or shrub of any kind. The light drifting sand
soon obliterated all traces of life. On we wandered, hoping soon to
reach the opposite side, but hope soon failed; we had lost sight
of the woods: to retrace our steps was now utterly impossible--our
footprints were no longer visible--we now realized the true character
of our situation--parched with thirst--worn with fatigue--amidst an
ocean of sand, where neither shrub, or cooling stream appeared to cheer
the lonely wanderer. We sat ourselves sat down upon the burning sand,
beneath a torrid sun, and partook of such as we had. The quantity of
water being small, we were obliged to use it sparingly. The saltness
of the meat greatly increased our thirst; we at length fell in with
our own footprints, nearly filled with sand. We sat down in despair;
the sun having now passed the meridian, served as a compass, which we
followed, until it sank beneath the horizon; night came, and found us
still hungry and shelterless. Having eaten our last morsel, and drank
our last drop of water, we lay down upon the sand, fatigued almost
beyond endurance; so excessive was our thirst, that we slept but very
little. We spread our flannel shirts upon the sand, and when they were
saturated with dew, (the dews of the country are very heavy, and supply
the deficiency of rains, which seldom appear) we would wring them, and
suck the moisture; this being often repeated, alleviated our thirst
somewhat. No mind can form any description, or form to itself any
definite idea of our situation. Most sincerely we repented the course
we had taken, and anxiously sought to retrace our steps. With joy we
welcomed the approach of morning, hoping that ere another day should
pass, we should be able to find some means of rescue from our horrible
situation. We traveled until mid-day, almost crazed with the heat of
the sun upon the head; and our tongues were so swollen as to render
our mouths hardly able to contain them. We sat down half inclined to
give up, and leave our bones to whiten the sands. Driven to the last
extremity, we resorted to the use of our own urine, for the alleviation
of our thirst; this was repeated frequently. Summoning new courage, we
started again: after wandering a long time, we fell in with the tracks
of a horse or mule. So excessive was our joy at this discovery, that we
almost forgot our fatigue, and bounded forward with delight. Our joy
however, was soon at an end. for the tracks were obliterated, and we
were as bad off as before, and worse even; for having seen the light,
the darkness was still deeper. We found, and lost it alternately for
some time. Night again spread her sable mantle around our wretchedness.
With the closest scrutiny we followed the tracks; about midnight, (as
near as we could judge), one of my companions, lustily as his swollen
tongue and debilitated condition would allow, cried "land ahead," much
to our joy. On we passed, and found it to be low shrubbery, about three
feet high. Again we lost the tracks, but this we did not mind, so
rejoiced were we to find any living thing.
Falling in with a small path, we followed it with the greatest avidity.
As we went on, the path increased in size. Soon we heard the loud
barking of a dog; never before was such a welcome so well received.
This induced us to quicken our pace, believing we were near habitations
of some kind, little caring what. But a short time elapsed before we
came upon a house, evidently the residence of a Spaniard. A few loud
knocks at the door sufficed to arouse the inmates, who cried lustily
in Spanish, "Who is there? what do you want?" Fortunately for us, one
of our number understood the language sufficiently well to make our
wants known. With the true generosity of the Spaniard his house was
immediately opened, and we were welcome to such as he had, viz: dried
beef and milk: this, to the half famished wanderer, was a repast of the
choicest kind. Fatigued and enfeebled as we were, great was the danger
of our eating too much: this, reason strongly pointed out to us, but
appetite got the ascendency, and before we were aware of it we were in
as great danger from excess as before from deprivation and fatigue.
Again our host befriended us, rendering us all needed assistance. His
repeated kindnesses induced us to place unlimited confidence in him;
we told him of our deserting the ship, and of our future plans. He
cunningly proposed, when we were sufficiently recovered, to take a ride
to St. Augustine, which lay seventeen miles from Payta. We mounted the
asses and proceeded on the way. When we arrived there we were given up
to the governor as deserters, and confined. The Spaniard received a
reward for delivering us up to the proper authorities. This we could
not approve, though it was acting in conformity with the laws of his
country. The next morning we were fitted out for Payta, guarded by six
Spanish soldiers, all on asses. Our route lay along the coast, and was
indeed very pleasant. Forgetting almost entirely our extreme suffering
on the plain, we hardly realized that we were prisoners strongly
guarded, so merrily we passed along. The soldiers were themselves very
joyful.
On our arrival at Payta, we were thrown into prison for safe keeping.
Our captain was then notified of our apprehension, and came to see
us, and asked us if we were willing to go to our duty like faithful
men. That we assured him we would most certainly do. Manifesting much
indifference he turned away, saying he would see what the charges were,
and think about releasing us. The prison into which we were thrown was
of the most filthy kind; my mind recoils with horror at the thought
of it. We passed the night without closing our eyes to sleep. Rats of
enormous size were jumping around us all night, and anxiously we waited
for morning. The next morning breakfast was served, consisting of jerk
beef, brown bread, and cold water. So loathsome was the place that we
would almost have rather starved than eaten there. Giving our allowance
to our fellow-prisoners, we waited in anxious expectation for the
re-appearance of the captain, expecting, or at least hoping he would
bring a release. At length he came, having paid twenty-five dollars
for us. We went on board again perfectly contented, having paid, as we
thought, dearly as deserters.
I propose here giving a hasty geographical and historical sketch of
Peru, but owing to the insufficient time allotted common sailors
for getting any definite idea of the countries which they may visit,
I shall be obliged to couple the statements of others with my own
observation. The territory comprising it is 230,000 square miles in
area. The Andes range of mountains extend through this country, the
highest point of which is 22,000 feet above the valley of Chuquibamba.
The celebrated volcano known as Omati has an elevation exceeding 18,000
feet. In the eastern Andes remains of mining excavations are found at
an elevation of 16,600 ft. They were wrought by the Peruvians under
the Incas, long before the arrival of the Spaniards. The entry to the
gallery of San Miguel and of Pomare, is close to the region of eternal
snow. Intersecting the country in different directions are other ranges
of mountains, which do not properly belong to the Andes; these are of
various extent and height. Exclusive of Peru proper, which is merely a
narrow strip, and also of the various chains of mountains which contain
between them broad and extensive valleys, watered by gigantic streams,
this country contains immense plains, or pampas, as they are called by
the Spanish, extending from Montana Real as far east as the Portuguese
frontier 600 miles, in direct distance, and in some places in equal
breadth. The Maranon rolls its mighty waters through the centre of this
continental steppe; and these plains are so abundantly watered, that
they are everywhere fertile, and clothed with impenetrable forests.
The most noted of these plains contains more than 60,000 square miles;
and is capable of supporting 5,000,000 inhabitants. It is called the
"Steppe of the Holy Sacrament."
The mighty river Amazon, or Maranon, rises in this country, among
the Andes, in a number of head streams. Those streams which empty
into the Pacific, flowing from the western side of the Andes, are
of but little importance, being quite small in size. The climate of
the country is variable; that of the Coast or Low Peru, is dry and
temperate; that of the Sierras mild, that of the Andes piercingly
cold; and that of the Pampas warm, and exceedingly humid. The climate
of the Sierras is perhaps the most healthy in the world, if we can
judge from the long life of its inhabitants. Persons are often found
living at the age of 120, and sometimes reach the extreme age of 150
years. A Spaniard died in the year 1765, in the province of Caxamarea,
aged 144 years, 7 months, and 5 days, leaving 800 lineal descendants.
But such extreme age is by no means common to the whole country. The
climate of the Pampas is far from being healthy. The warmth and extreme
humidity render them almost uninhabitable, and the few Indian tribes
on the rivers rarely see a man of the age of fifty. In the uplands of
this country, the soil is somewhat fertile, but owing to the almost
insuperable barriers to communication with the coast, agriculture is
generally speaking in a wretched state.
Abundance of cotton in a wild state is found in the Montana Real, and
on the banks of the Maranon. Flax is common, but the Indians leave
the stems to perish, and make a kind of beer of the seeds. In some
districts a species of coffee, and cochineal abound, but the quality is
not the best. The pimento of Peru is excessively strong, and there is
cinnamon stronger than that of Ceylon, though not so valuable for use.
A great variety of aromatic balsams, oils, and gums, distilled from the
trees are produced here. In the description of Peru, Estalla enumerates
the cedar, the olive, the wild orange, the incorruptible _algorob_,
the palm, the willow, and many other trees. On the coast, and western
slopes of the Andes, are produced the cabbage-palm, the cocoa-nut, the
chocolate-nut, the cotton-shrub, the pineapple, tumeric, plantain, and
sugar-cane. No less than twenty-four species of pepper are raised in
Peru. Tobacco and jalap grow in abundance at the foot of the Andes.
The chief shrubs on the uplands of the Andes are the different species
of _cinchonas_, or the salutary Peruvian bark. The mountains abound in
metalic wealth. They are interspersed with veins of gold and of silver
ore, in which pieces of pure silver, solid copper, and lead ore occur,
frequently intermixed with white silver ore, and virgin silver, in
threads. In many parts are rich veins of gold ore in quartz, and gold
is also obtained by washing the mud found in the beds of the rivers.
Many of the silver mines are neglected, owing to their being inundated
by water, which has continued to gain on them so as to completely choke
them.
The principal silver mines were discovered in 1630, by an Indian
shepherd, and though very badly wrought, they annually furnish near
$2,500,000. These mines are usually called Pareo, and Cerro de Bombon.
Humbolt calculates the produce of gold and silver at $6,000,000
annually. To this sum must be added the fraudulent exportation of
silver, or what is denominated unregistered produce, on which no duty
has been paid--this is estimated at $940,000.
Mercury is found is abundance in Peru, which is not the case in any
other part of Spanish America. The other minerals are numerous.
There are many obstacles, however, to successful mining in Peru. One
great difficulty is the ignorance of the miners in the science of
amalgamation. Another is the want of capital; the operator being in
most cases, in necessitous circumstances, is obliged to borrow money
on very exorbitant interest to enable him to commence his works,
and to sell the produce of his mines at a great sacrifice, in order
to carry them on. The labor of the mines is principally performed
by the Indians, as they only are able to endure the fatigue and
unwholesomeness of the employment.
The commerce of Peru consists for the most part in the interchange of
the precious metals for foreign products, and manufactures; of which
considerable quantities are imported. There is a great want of good
roads and bridges in Peru; and in the little intercourse between the
seaports and the interior of the country, almost every article of trade
is carried on the backs of mules and lamas. The ancient Peruvians were
partially civilized; they constructed numerous and excellent roads,
and also built stone palaces of enormous size; were skilled in making
vessels of gold and silver, and cultivated the land with much care.
At the time of the Spanish conquest, Peru comprised a territory of
much greater dimensions, than the modern state of the same name. Its
kings were a dynasty of princes, called Incas; they were supposed to be
descended from the sun, and were held sacred and adored by the people.
At the time Pizarro took possession of this country, the reigning
Incas were put to death, and the dominion of the Spanish sovereign
established. This occurred forty years after the discovery of America.
Peru with the other American provinces of Spain was long governed by
Viceroys, appointed by the kings of that country; but in the year
1821, the people established a government of their own, and with the
assistance of the Colombians achieved their independence in 1824, by
the defeat of the last Spanish army at Ayachuco.
In the year 1836, Peru was divided into the states of North Peru,
and South Peru, which with Bolivia, were formed in the Peru-Bolivian
confederation, under a chief magistrate styled the Supreme Protector.
Three years afterwards, the army of the confederation was defeated by
the Chilians, at Uraguay, and the Republic was dissolved.
The Peruvians like the other people of South America, are composed
of various races; the most numerous being the Creoles of European
descent, and the Indians. There are many tribes of the Indians; they
are much debased, and seldom cheerful. The Carapachas are exceedingly
beautiful, and are said even to rival the Circassians; but their
speech is very offensive, resembling the barking of dogs, owing to the
guttural sounds. The women of some tribes are warlike. The Omagna tribe
flatten the head, like some of the North American Indians. The Indians
occupy the same place in society as in Mexico. They are idle, filthy,
superstitious, and suspicious. Their dress and habitations are mean and
poor; their capacities are very limited, and they have little variety
of character. They are governed by native chiefs or caciques.
The gentlemen of Peru imitate the English fashion of dress, and the
ladies also, except in a peculiar walking dress, composed of a close
petticoat of satin, &c., with a short cloak of silk drawn around the
waist, and over the breast and head, half concealing the face. This
dress is peculiar to Lima; the petticoat is elastic, and sets close
enough to reveal the form. The hood, or manto, is probably a Moorish
remnant. The dwellings of the Indians are mere huts, and generally
architecture is in a much lower state than in Mexico. The roofs
are flat, and the walls are often of wattled cane, plastered. The
languages are the Spanish, and those of the Indians. The food does not
essentially differ from that in the other South American States; and
tobacco is very extensively used. There is little veal or lamb, and
many sweetmeats are consumed. A fermented liquor, called _chicha_ is
made of maize, and used to considerable extent. The diseases are not
peculiar. To travel in Peru, is a severe hardship and privation; the
mule is much used. This animal is invaluable from its cautious instinct
in passing the defiles or sides of the mountains, where a misstep would
cast them to a measureless distance below. In many places where they
cannot step, they protrude their feet, and slide downwards, directing
their course with the utmost sagacity. It is not safe for the rider to
assume any guidance over them, when he is riding with one leg over a
precipice, while the other rubs against the side of the mountain.
The hospitality of the Peruvians has no limits, and like the others of
European descent in South America, they are distinguished for their
paternal and filial virtues. The Creole ladies are good mothers, and
wives, and almost every family is a happy circle. Dancing, music,
tertulias, bull-fights, and cock-fighting are the common amusements.
The negro slaves receive kind treatment, and are instructed in the
christian religion. It is common to see the white children thus
instructing those of a household. Education is little attended to, but
more than under the old government. The ruling religion is the Roman
Catholic.
There is no country whose history is more interesting than Peru.
Leaving Peru we stood for the Gallapagos, which lie off the coast about
200 miles, and form a considerable group intersected by the equator;
though many of them are small, and covered with forests. Turtle are
found here in great abundance, and of enormous size. Dodging about
for a few days, we took three small whale; this place is famous as
the resort of the sperm whale in the time of its having its young,
being perfectly adapted to it. Soon as the young is born, it mounts
the fin of its mother, and rides safely away. After the oil was tried,
and stowed, the ship cleaned, &c., we put two boats in readiness, and
rowed away for the shore in quest of turtle, or turpin, (a species of
turtle;) we landed on a beautiful, low, sandy beach, a short distance
from the shore; high craggy cliffs arose destitute of almost all
verdure save the prickly pear bush, which grows to about the size of
the American quince bush; the fruit is of a bright red, is covered with
sharp, piercing prickles like the gooseberry: much difficulty arises
in removing them; the fruit is most delicious; the trees and leaves
are also covered with the same sharp hard prickles. We ascended the
cliff, and wandered around an hour or two, and found nothing, save a
few guana, an animal of the lizard appearance, though much larger. Many
times they are found four or five feet long. The flesh is very tender,
sweet and delicate, and is of great note among the inhabitants of Peru
and Chili, as a fancy dish. Fell in with a large turpin, the first one
any of us ever saw; when we came up with him, he retreated within his
shell; we turned him over upon his back, to see his agility in turning
himself back; he ran out his long neck, which was not less than two
feet and a half long, and with his short legs labored most assiduously;
he at length accomplished his object; this done, we laid hold of his
legs, which were not more than six inches long, and started for the
boat; when we came to a steep point in the path, we would place him
upon the edge of his shell, and set him rolling,--many times a long
way. After toiling a long time, we reached the boat. Soon others, who
had gone in a different way, returned richly laden; they found one so
very large, they were unable to bring it until divested of its shell.
About thirty were taken during the few days we remained at this island.
Getting ready we proceeded to sea, ran close to the rock of Dundas.
This is a monumental rock of black granite, rearing its head eighty or
an hundred feet above the water. The water around it is about sixty
fathoms deep; the currents are such, that it is utterly impossible for
ships to float or be driven against it; the sides are so bold that it
cannot be ascended; boobys and other birds are always perched upon
the top. The wind being light, we lowered our boat and set lines for
fishing; divided the seven lines between two boats, and in a couple of
hours took about 400 large red fish, called by the seamen snappers;
as fast as the lines could be set the fish were caught. We salted the
principal part of them; we left the place and proceeded on our way, the
wind and weather was most beautiful. Smoothly we glided along at the
rate of four or five knots an hour, bound for the Society Islands. Fell
in with a large number of whale going north; lowered away the boats;
took seven, and had them alongside at dark: the ship was hove too, and
the next morning the oil was tried; had 105 barrels.
Passing Otaheite, we came abreast of the harbor of Emer; the high
points of land on both sides becalmed us so we were obliged to lower
our boats and take the ship in tow; we brought her into the harbor, and
hove her anchor to keep her off the coral reef, which lay close under
our lee. Before the sails could be furled, the ship was covered with
females who had swam to her. Whether the use of the boats is forbidden
them I know not, yet I presume such is the fact, with regard to this as
well as to other islands; at any rate, during our stay I did not see
any of them in a boat. Here we procured wood and water, and had liberty
on shore; during our stay two men left the ship. Having once myself
suffered much as a deserter, I chose to stay. When ready to leave, we
hove up the anchor, and not having room enough for our vessel to cast,
or turn, she ran directly upon the coral reef; we let go an anchor, but
not in time to have it avail us any thing; then unshackling the chain,
we lowered the kedge into a boat, carried it out astern the length of
the line, and let her go; hauling away upon the line, hove the ship
off to a proper distance, and let go another anchor. We next went on
shore to get divers to go for the anchor we first let go; the one first
obtained was a young man altogether unexperienced in the art; his first
dive proved ineffectual; when he came to the surface, the blood gushed
from his nostrils in streams, and was with much difficulty stopped.
The second one took his small line and succeeded in attaching it to
the ring of the anchor; again diving, taking a large hawser with him,
he fastened the small line to it, and again came to the surface; then
with the small one, drew the hawser through the ring, and brought it
to the ship's side. Veering away upon the hawser, we brought the ship
directly over the anchor; manning the windlass, we hove the ship to her
berth again; loosing down upon the anchor again, with the hawser veered
away, and again brought the ship's bow directly over it, and hauled it
to the water's edge, then hooking the cat-block secured it to the ship.
Putting all things in readiness, we set sail; several days elapsed
before we knew whither we were bound; at length the captain informed us
that we were going to the Coast of Japan. A long time elapsed before we
even saw the spout of a whales. Passing the meridian we fell in with a
school of whale; took about 100 barrels of oil. Saw no more until off
the coast of Japan.
While on our way we took fish of many kinds, caught many dolphins,
one of the beautiful inhabitants of the sea. "The general length of
this fish appears to be about two feet. In its shape it bears little
resemblance to the representation of it seen on vases and in marine
emblems and armorial bearings, but is very similar to the white
salmon-trout of the Otsego. When swimming in the water its colors
appears exceedingly delicate and beautiful. The head, back, and upper
part of the sides, vary from the hues of burnished steel to that
of deep azure and mazarine blue, shading off in the under parts in
pea-green and light yellow. One was struck with a harpoon and brought
on deck, and we all hastened to witness the reported splendor of its
colors when dying. We found them to be as truly beautiful as they have
been described; consisting of rapid transitions from the deepest purple
approaching to black, through blue, green, gold of different hues, and
several shades of silver, to an almost snow white, and then to purple
again. The sight however was painful, from a kind of sympathy with the
beautiful sufferer, we could but feel that the gratification of our
curiosity was at the expense of its life. The colors soon became less
and less brilliant, and in five minutes entirely disappeared."
The flying fish also attracted much attention. Many of them were taken
as they flew on deck. They are of a slender proportion, about six
inches long; they sometimes spring into the air even to the height of
sixteen or eighteen feet, and swim horizontally through the air twenty
or twenty-five feet, when they again fall into their native element.
When under the surface they are incessantly pursued by dolphins, and
while in the air they become the prey of sea gulls and other sea fowls,
which are hovering over the sea in quest of food.
A person ignorant of their nature would suppose them birds of small
size, for like swallows they move by thousands in a right line, and
always in a direction opposite that of the waves.
At the island of Niphon we took several whale and blackfish; we also
spoke several whale ships while cruising there.
One day while in company with the ships, we saw a large school of
whales at a distance. The boats were immediately lowered and all gave
chase. We only took one, while some took two or three. One was taken
along side and preparation made for boiling the oil. While in the midst
of it a heavy squall arose from the northeast blowing like a perfect
hurricane, threw our ship upon her beam ends, and sent the oil out of
the pots, which were full, on to the men, severely scalding them.
Every thing movable was capsized. Those below, thinking the vessel was
going down, came hurriedly upon deck with horror most visibly depicted
on their countenance. For some time all stood still, momentarily
expecting the next moment would see us engulphed beneath the billows.
Fortunately for us our sails were all stowed, as is customary in the
time of boiling the oil, except a close reefed main-top-sail and
fore-sail. The fore-sail was hauled up soon as possible, and the helm
seized by one of the officers.
The violence of the wind abated somewhat, when the rain came down in
torrents, accompanied by lightning and thunder.
The gale continued from the N. E. about six hours, when it suddenly
shifted to the opposite point of the compass and blew, if possible,
with redoubled energy, another six hours. The vessel creaked most
terribly in her struggles, her lee gunwales in the water, and the sea
breaking yard arm high.
The captain thought proper at this time to lighten her of her top
hamper. We were obliged to mount the masts to a distance of seventy or
eighty feet, and when there, with every swell of the sea we would be
carried with great velocity through a space of eighty or a hundred feet.
The screams of those below, as they tried to make themselves heard,
came to our ears, borne upon the tempest, like the shrieks of the
dying. The mast and yards being let go eased her considerably, though
the storm raged with unabated fury.
Never before had I seen the sea presenting such an awful spectacle.
"The fearful commotion which it was under was indeed indescribably
sublime, yet was too dreadfully terrific, when at its height, to allow
of much enjoyment. When it evidently begins to abate, and hope tells
you the worst is passed, you are left to the indulgence of unmingled
and enthusiastic admiration, and may gaze with delight at the ever
varying scene, as wave after wave rears its monstrous head 'and casts
its foaming horrors to the clouds.'
"But, till this change does take place--while every successive blast
blows harder and harder, and each billow threatens more surely than its
precursor, to bury you under its weight,--it is impossible. Thoughts
of fear must check, if they do not take entire place of the higher
feelings of admiration."
At length the fury of the tempest abated; we finished trying the oil,
made sail and stood for the Sandwich Islands. Nothing of note occurred
while on the passage.
Reached Maui the first of October, 1834. Having cut my foot on the
passage, I was put under the charge of a resident physician, where I
remained fourteen days. At the expiration of that time we took our
departure from the island and stood away for the Navigators' Islands,
cruising for whales, though taking only a few, and those very small.
Cruising among the different groups, we reached Pitcairn's Island in
the month of December.
This island is noted as being the residence of Alexander Smith,
_alias_, John Adams, one of the Mutineers of the ship Bounty, which was
fitted out and sailed from England in 1787, for Otaheite, to procure
the bread fruit tree and other trees and plants, which were to be
introduced into the West Indies as articles of food.
Having procured a supply, they sailed for their destined port, and
while off the Friendly isles the spirit of mutiny was breathed forth,
the vessel seized, and the officers bound. One of the ship's boats was
then lowered away, the officers and eighteen such as were not wanted
put in, also a quantity of provisions and rum, a compass, and articles
of clothing, blankets, &c., were allowed them, and the boat sent adrift.
The mutineers, twenty-five in number, then proceeded to Otaheite,
where a dissension took place and sixteen left the ship. The remaining
nine, with six Otahitean men and twelve women, proceeded to Pitcairn's
Island, where again domestic broils and assassinations ensued, and
all of the Otaheitean men, and all the Englishmen, except two, fell.
They established a code of laws by which they were governed. Smith,
who changed his name to Adams, procured from the ship a bible and
prayer-book, served as teacher or guide, enforcing the most strict
discipline. His word was law. This teacher died in 1829, being the
last male that landed there, the other who survived the broils and
desertions, having died some time previous.
The number on the island at the death of the patriarch Adams was about
eighty.
At the island of Rohanah, of the Friendly Islands, myself and one other
were prompted by the poor success we had had to again leave the ship.
This was put in force the day previous to the departure of the ship.
When we went on shore with the boat's crew, we fled to the mountains.
Having collected a few boughs together and built a hut, we went in
quest of food, being very careful about breaking down the grass so as
to form a path, lest the natives would find us. Obtained a quantity of
bananas, plantains, and oranges, also a calabash of water. The next
morning, quite to our delight, we saw from our mountain retreat the
ship, with all canvass to the breeze, gliding swiftly from the harbor.
We came down upon the beach among the natives, who treated us kindly,
urging us to partake of their simple fare.
There were two Europeans, one from Ireland, the other from England, who
had long been residents there.
We remained there seventeen days, when the brig Doll arrived there
from Otaheite. She was cruising among the different groups for seals.
They being in want of hands, I shipped myself as seaman. I informed
my companion of my engagement, also of their want of more, when he
deridingly said, "when he went to sea he should go in a ship."
The vessel was indeed one not at all prepossessing in its appearance,
being old and poorly rigged, still I was willing to try my chance in
her.
Necessary preparations being made we set sail. Our crew was composed
of ten Europeans, and six natives of the Society Islands. All things
passed along very finely indeed, and in a few days we made the island
of Magdalena, one of the Marquesas group. We knew the murderous cruelty
of the inhabitants, still we proposed landing; and put the boats in
readiness. When we came near the shore, the natives rushed in numbers
to the bank, yelling and screaming most horridly, holding a human skull
and other bones in their hands, which they brandished about, defying
our attempts to land.
Finding it useless to parley with them, we put back to the ship, and
squaring our yards, stood around to the north end of Wytohoo and
entered the straits that separate Wytohoo from Dominica, at a distance
of from seven to twelve miles. Running through the straits we came
abreast of the harbor long known as Resolution Bay. It being now near
night, the captain thought proper to lay off and on during the night,
and go on shore in the morning.
That night we witnessed one of the most sublime spectacles I ever
witnessed--what is termed a phosphorific illumination.
"The horizon in every direction presented a line of uninterrupted
light, while the wide space intervening was one extent of apparent
fire. The sides of our vessel appeared kindling to a blaze, and as our
bows occasionally dashed against a wave, the flash of the concussion
gleamed half way up the rigging, and illuminated every object along the
whole length of the ship. By throwing any article overboard a display
of light and colors took place surpassing in brilliancy and beauty the
finest exhibition of fire-works.
"A charming effect was produced by a line coiled to some length, and
then cast into the water at a distance, and also by a bucket of water
dashed from the side of a vessel. The rudder, too, by its motions
created splendid corruscations at the stern, and a flood of light,
by which our track was marked far behind us. The smaller fish were
distinctly traceable by running lines showing their rapid course,
while now and then broad glimmerings, extending many yards in every
direction, made known the movements of some monster of the deep.
"But minuteness will only weary without conveying any adequate
impression of the scene. It would have been wise perhaps only to have
said that it was among the most sublime nature herself ever presents."
At eleven that evening a strong breeze arose from the west-southwest,
which strengthened with each succeeding moment, until it ripened into a
perfect gale.
We made sail to get clear of the land. They were no sooner spread, than
torn from the yards by the wind with a noise like thunder. Many a pale
face and trembling lip were there. Before us, and under our lee were
nothing but high and craggy rocks, to which we were rapidly hastening,
with seemingly no chance of escape.
[Illustration: THE SHIP RUSHED UPON THE ROCKS WITH A MIGHTY CRASH.]
The wind rushing through the rigging so furiously, rendered all
attempts to be heard fruitless.
The lightning's incessant flashing, accompanied by loud thunder,
rendered our situation the most appalling. Each moment brought us
nearer the rocks.
Our second mate, Mr. Anderson of England, lowered the larboard boat,
with six men, (they were the Otahiteans, who eagerly rushed into the
boat,) beside himself, which no sooner touched the water than they
found a watery grave. Their shrieks were heard and moved our hearts to
pity, but the hands that gladly would have rendered them assistance,
were palsied. They were beyond our reach. We saw the waves sweep over
them, as the wind moaned their requiem.
The anchor being let go served to swing the vessel around, head to the
wind, and in some degree to check her progress.
This being considered a favorable moment, the captain instantly lowered
away his boat with the remaining eight, (one having been lost overboard
in the early part of the gale,) in safety. But we were only just in
season, for a moment after the ship parted from her anchor, and rushed
upon the rocks with a mighty crash.
So complete was the wreck that scarce one plank was left upon another.
We lay in the harbor from two o'clock, A. M. until day, keeping under
the point for shelter from the blast, about a mile from where the
vessel struck.