The gas coming from the third can or washer, is ready for use, but as

the pressure would not be uniform, a storage tank must be provided.

To make a storage tank suitable for the needs of this small plant,

procure two pans from 10 to 12 in. in diameter and from 3 to 4 in.

deep. One pan should be a trifle smaller, so that it may be inverted in

the larger pan, as shown. Make a connection from the third can with a

rubber hose to the bottom of the larger pan, near the center, and use

this pan as the bottom part of the storage tank. Pour into this pan

enough water to make it 2 in. deep, invert the other pan and set it

into the water. Attach a gas hose to the bottom of the inverted pan and

fasten a gas jet into the rubber-hose end. This will make the gas plant

complete and ready to operate.

To start the furnace, bore a hole in one side of the brick walls, about

the size of an ordinary lead pencil, and insert a lighted taper to set

fire to the kindling. There may be some difficulty in getting the fire

to burn at first, and it may be necessary to force considerable air in;

however, when the fire is fairly started, it will burn freely and the

gases will soon find their way through the first pipe to the condenser,

which is the first can. There they will mingle and deposit some tar and

ammonia, then flow out through the second pipe, up through the coke

and water in the second can and through the glass tube, where they may

be observed passing into the can of water, where some more tar and

ammonia will be deposited. After leaving this can the gas will find its

way through the rubber tube into the storage tank. It passes from this

tank to the burner, where it can be lighted and will burn with a bright

flame.

If it is possible to force steam into the furnace when the fire is at

its height, a much better quality and a larger volume of gas will be

made. This is accomplished by placing a closed can of water over a

fire near the furnace and connecting it to the latter with a piece of

1-in. gas pipe. The water in this can must be boiling hot at the time

the fire in the furnace is lighted. The steam entering the furnace is

decomposed, the hydrogen being released as a gas. The pipe connecting

the boiler with the furnace should be fitted in the furnace wall so

that the steam will pass in at the top of the fire; about halfway up

the side of the furnace being about right. The steam will start the

gases more rapidly and force them through the pipes.

Make sure that all connections are carefully sealed to prevent the

escape of gases, as they will always follow the lines of least

resistance and pass out through a very small crevice. The only danger

with a plant of this size is from fire, wherefore it should be built

away from inflammable materials. It will not make sufficient gas to be

of injury to any living being.

Webfoot Attachments for Swimmers

In order to make the feet more effective in swimming, webfoot devices

are frequently used. A simple arrangement for this purpose is shown

in the illustration. It consists of three thin sections of metal, or

wood, fastened together on the back side with spring hinges, which tend

to remain open, thereby keeping all the sections spread out in one

straight surface. The center section should be cut to conform closely

to the shape of the foot, or it will produce considerable resistance

during the onward stroke of the foot, and tend to stop the forward

movement of the swimmer. Straps should be provided for attaching the

device to the foot; one to fit across the toes, and the other adjusted

around the ankle by a buckle.

[Illustration: Device for Attaching to the Feet to Work Like Webfeet]

When using the device, the upward or forward stroke of the legs will

cause the wings to brush against the water, creating sufficient

resistance to overcome the slight force of the springs, thereby pushing

the wings parallel with the direction of the stroke. During the

opposite, or pushing, stroke, the resistance of the water combined with

the opening tendency of the hinges will quickly spread the wings out

flat, greatly increasing the effectiveness of the feet.--Contributed by

J. B. Laplace, New York City.

Repairing Sectional Spun-Metal Candlesticks

In repairing hollow, spun-brass candlesticks I find that frequently the

metal rod holding the sections together becomes loosened from the pitch

composition designed to hold it in the base. By tinning the outer edges

of the sections that fit into the other portions, which are also tinned

on the inner surfaces, and then using an iron, or an alcohol torch,

to run the solder together at these points, I secure a very firm job.

Paper can be placed at points necessary to keep the solder from running

out of bounds. When the rod is firm and the nut only gives trouble,

solder can be used to fasten the nut permanently to the grease cup at

the top.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Alcohol Blowtorch for Difficult Soldering

[Illustration: Clamps for Holding the Alcohol Receptacle on the End of

the Blowpipe]

To solder in close places, I have found the device illustrated quite

convenient, as it leaves both hands free to handle the object being

soldered. Two pieces of spring brass, about 3 in. long and ¹⁄₄ in.

wide, are bent to the shape shown at A and clamped together with a

screw taken from a dry cell, as shown at B. This device clamped to

the blowpipe end and fitted with a tube, such as used for holding

pencil leads, filled with a wick saturated in alcohol, completes the

blowtorch. It makes an excellent tool for small work, as the hands are

free to hold the parts to be soldered in place.--Contributed by J. A.

Tandy, Ghent, Ky.

* * * * *

¶Electric wires should never be run crooked.

Preventing Sewing-Machine Thread from Tangling

[Illustration]

The highly enameled surface of a sewing-machine arm offers so little

resistance to the bottom of the spool that the thread will unwind

faster than it is used, thereby causing a tangle. A piece of paper

slipped over the spool post will cause enough friction to prevent the

spool from revolving beyond the proper speed.

Bearing Made of a Brass Cartridge

[Illustration]

A brass cartridge makes a good bearing to fit in a wood driving rod

used to run a small piece of foot-power machinery. It prevents wear

on the wood and admits more lubrication than the bare wood. Cut the

cartridge to the proper length, and ream out the cap hole even with the

diameter of the bore of the shell.

Lighting a Match in the Wind

[Illustration]

To light a match in a stiff wind is very easy if the wood part back

of the prepared end is cut and turned up about it before striking the

match. The curled-up shavings about the striker will catch fire easily

and hold a flame, where in the ordinary way it is easily blown out when

the composition of the striker has burned up.--Contributed by E. K.

Marshall, Oak Park, Ill.

[Illustration]

A Miniature Cement Plant

BY MORTON SOUTHARD

For many years geologists searched for a substance which could be

molded into any size and form, and would have the hardness of rock.

As a matter of fact it was found that limestone was composed of

carbonic-acid gas, clay, and lime, and that when great heat was applied

the sealing bond was disrupted and the rock was reduced to a powder.

When this powder was placed in water the gas was set free so fast that

it made the water boil. The powder, or calcined rock, is now known as

lime. This action demonstrated that nature used heat and moisture in

forming these materials into rock. Knowing that clay contained silica,

and that silica furnished the sealing quality of rocks, experiments

were made to reverse the order of this rock formation, and a cement

was produced. Equal portions of lime and clay were mixed together and

stirred until all parts were thoroughly mingled, and then the mixture

was subjected to a very high heat, after which the resulting mass was

ground to a powder. When this powder was mixed with water, instead

of the gases passing off as they did in the case of the lime, they

penetrated the clay and the mixture became hard. This was first called

Portland cement, as it was made from Portland limestone.

[Illustration: The Furnace is Built Up of Ordinary Brick and Used for

Calcining the Lime]

This discovery partly solved the problem of artificial-rock making,

but not wholly, for the best makes will break, peel, and crack without

the slightest cause and when least expected, and besides its dark-gray

color and rough appearance is unattractive. Much progress has been made

with cement for interior decorations and many of the finest marbles are

closely imitated. This grade of cement will not weather and its use is

confined wholly to interior work. A white cement is much desired and

many of the large manufacturers maintain laboratories where experiments

are carried on constantly in the endeavor to produce it.

To build a miniature cement plant, first secure sufficient common brick

to make a furnace with an inside cavity, 20 in. square and 24 in.

high. Two sides and one back wall are built up, sealing the brick with

mortar, clay, or cement. The bottom is covered with bricks standing on

edge, and so placed that they will be about ¹⁄₄ in. apart, to serve

as a grate. The top is then covered with a piece of tin, or asbestos,

and a hole is cut in its center to receive a pipe, about 3 in. in

diameter, for a chimney. This chimney should be about 15 in. high.

Build the front wall halfway up by laying the brick loosely together

so that the fire will get the air through the crevices, then cover the

grate with kindling, place coal on top of it, and start the fire. When

it is well under way, place a few fair-sized lumps of limestone on top

of the fire and complete the wall to the top by laying the brick as

closely as possible. Use sufficient coal to burn at least two hours.

When the fire has burned itself out and the furnace has cooled,

remove the front wall and take out the burned limestone. Some parts

of the limestone will be mixed with the coal, but most of it will

remain in the lump, which is known as “black lime,” and when it is

placed in water it will give off gas very fast. Obtain some fire clay

and thoroughly mix equal portions of lime and clay, then place the

mixture in a one-piece pan, made of pressed tin or sheet iron, as a

soldered-bottom pan will come apart with the heat. Build up the front

of the furnace as before, build a fire and place the pan on the fire

and let it burn itself out. When the furnace has cooled, remove the

front, take out the pan, and pulverize the mass in the pan. When this

powder is placed in water it will become hard. If some sand or gravel

is mixed with it, and the mortar thus formed is spread out over a flat

surface, a miniature cement sidewalk will be the result.

Gauge for Laying Out Model Gear Wheels

[Illustration: The Gauge Steps Off Each Tooth Accurately for the Saw to

Cut the Next Slot]

The illustration shows a simple device for making small gear wheels by

hand. It is made of a piece of brass, ¹⁄₈ in. thick and about 5 in.

long, shaped as shown, forming a tooth, A, according to the size of

the teeth required in the gear wheel, with the end B on a radial line

from the center of the wheel. Use one or more hacksaws, according to

the size of the slots or teeth to be cut. If one blade is not large

enough and two are too large, grind off the teeth on the inner side of

the saws, or if two are not large enough, place a thin piece of paper

or metal between them to make the thickness required. Make a clamp, C,

for holding the blades together, by using a piece of sheet brass, 6 in.

long and ¹⁄₂ in. wide. This clamp also acts as a depth gauge for the

slots.

Place the wheel in a vise and proceed by cutting the first slot very

carefully. Place the tooth A of the gauge in this first slot and cut

the next by holding the side of the saw close up against the end of

the gauge, at B. This keeps all the teeth radiating from the center

of the wheel. Cut each slot in the same manner until all of them are

formed.--Contributed by George Jupp, New York City.

Homemade Level

[Illustration: A Bottle Filled with Water and Tied to a Straight Piece

of Wood for a Level]

Having need of a level, and there being no place to obtain one within

several miles, I constructed one as follows: A long medicine bottle was

filled with water and tied to a straight piece of wood, 2 ft. long.

After setting it properly by turning the piece end for end several

times, I found that it could be used with accuracy.--Contributed by

Fred L. King, Islip, L. I.

A Tuberculosis Cottage

BY N. F. FULTZ

The tuberculosis society of a certain locality needed a demonstration

cottage for their crusade against the white plague, and they placed

their need before the boys of the public-school shops. One class of

eighth-grade boys volunteered, and two days after the job was started

the complete cottage was delivered to the society. The material

required for its construction was as follows:

220 linear feet of ship-lap, 1 in. thick and 6 in. wide.

80 ft. of 1-in. flooring.

6 studs, 14 ft. long.

7 pieces for plates and rafters, 2 by 4 in., 10 ft. long.

3 pieces for sills, 2 by 4 in., 16 ft. long.

100 ft. of sheathing boards.

100 ft. of tar roofing paper.

The cottage is constructed in sections and can be assembled or

dismantled in 30 minutes. The sections are not so heavy but that they

can be handled with ease by two men. There are seven sections, namely,

the floor, two sides, two ends, and two roof sections. If the cottage

is to be moved only a short distance, it can be loaded into an ordinary

dray assembled.

Since the building is made in sections, it is well to construct the

floor first, which is a simple matter. Cut two sills of the 2 by 4-in.

stock, 10 ft. long. Cap these onto the ends of the five joists, which

are cut from 2 by 4-in. stock, to a length that will total 8 ft. when

the thickness of the two sills are added. Lay the flooring the long

way of the section, bringing it flush with all outside edges. This

completes the floor section.

The two side sections are made in a similar manner. Cut the studs--12

of them--6 ft. 4 in. long, and four plates, 10 ft. long. Cap the

ends of the studs with the floor and rafter plates, according to the

measurement on the floor plan. Nail five pieces of ship-lap, cut 10

ft. 1¹⁄₂ in. long, on the bottom of the section, and one similar board

to the top edge. Bore four holes, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter, 1 in. from the

outside edge in the floor plate. These are for ¹⁄₂-in. lag screws, to

hold the parts together when the sections are assembled.

The front-end section is arranged for a 30-in. door. The top, or

rafter, plate is cut 7 ft. 4¹⁄₂ in. long. This makes the allowance for

the width of the side studs and plates when they are to be assembled,

a very important matter to remember. The floor plate is cut 4 ft. 5

in. long. Provide a dummy, made from a waste piece, to be fastened at

the bottom of the door studs until the sections are assembled, when it

is removed. Use screws to fasten this piece in place. Nail five pieces

of ship-lap, 5 ft. long, at the bottom of the section, and an 8-ft.

piece at the top. Be careful to set the end studs in from the end of

the board the exact thickness of the corresponding studs on the side

section.

[Illustration: Cottage Built by Boys to Fill the Requirements of a

Tuberculosis Society for a Demonstration in Their Crusade against the

White Plague]

The back-end section is much more easily made. The top plate, as well

as the floor plate, is cut the same as on the other section. Place the

intermediate stud on the center and nail on ship-lap, as in the other

construction.

[Illustration: Lap-Joint Corner Construction with Angle-Plate

Reinforcement for the Screens or Storm Screens]

In making the roof sections, cut four rafters for an 18-in. pitch, or

any other pitch desired. These are to be placed at the ends. Note the

notch on the lower end of the rafter marked A in the illustration. Make

allowance for the thickness of the rider marked C. This piece can be

made of 2 by 4-in. stock or any convenient material 1 in. thick. The

rider must be nailed to the comb end of the rafters of one section,

while a dummy, fastened to the under side of the rafters of the other

section, will serve the purpose of holding them true until the roof is

placed. Nail the sheathing on, closing the cracks between the boards as

well as possible. Start at the comb end and bevel the first board for

the comb joint. Make allowance for an 8-in. board at the lower end, so

that a 4-in. overhang may be had. Cover these sections with the desired

roofing. Place two screw holes at the lower end of each rafter to be

used in holding the roof in place. Always use screws instead of nails,

if the house is to be dismantled. Provide three rafter locks, marked B,

and then the roof is ready for assembling.

[Illustration: The Floor Section Consists of Simple Frame Construction

of Ordinary Material and Flooring Boards Fastened on the Frame to Make

the Edges Flush with the Sides and Ends]

The three gable boards, cut from ship-lap, can be more easily made

after the cottage is assembled. After they are fitted, each board must

be fastened with screws which will find a hold in the rafters. These

boards are marked D. Be sure that all lag-screw holes for the corner

and floor moorings are bored before starting to assemble the parts.

The screens are made with the half-lap construction at the corners

reinforced with angle plates. This construction is shown in the detail

sketch. The screens, or storm wings, should be covered with a good

grade of oilcloth or canvas. They are hung with an ordinary 3-in. wing

hinge.

The adjusting device for these storm wings consists of a piece of

1-in. gas pipe, 4 ft. long, threaded on one end to receive a collar.

Two flanges are used, one on each side of the board, above the wings

and located centrally. A wood plug is driven into the outer end of the

pipe, and a small pulley, suitable for a ³⁄₈-in. rope, hung on it.

Place a screw eye centrally into the lower edge of the wing and tie the

end of a ³⁄₈-in. rope to it. Run the other end of the rope through the

pulley and a hole in the wall. Place screw eyes, to which the rope may

be tied, at proper places on the inside of the wall boards. An ordinary

screen door is hung in the door opening.

[Illustration: Each Section is So Constructed That It can be Easily

Handled and Set Up with the Others to Form a Cottage, Only Screws being

Used to Fasten the Joints for Quick Assembling]

A house built in this manner was placed in the courthouse lawn as a

permanent fixture. Among other things brought out in the construction

was the fact that a cottage may be built by a boy at a cost less than

$50. Thus a stricken parent, brother, or sister may be provided, by the

hands of a young mechanic, with the first means that may bring him or

her back to health.

To Remove Putty from the Hands

Putty purchased from a dealer is usually in a soft and oily state,

and the amateur glazier soon finds his hands, as well as the tools,

plentifully smeared after the job is finished. Removing this from

the hands with the putty knife or a stick is very tedious, but if a

bunch of fine excelsior is used, the putty will be removed quickly and

thoroughly.

Focusing Screen for Enlarging Cameras

It is often very difficult when focusing an enlarging camera to

determine just when the perfect focus is reached, especially when

the negative is dim and without contrasting lights and shades. This

difficulty may be overcome and a perfect focus quickly determined by

the use of a focusing screen prepared as follows: Take a clear film or

plate, one that has been fixed without being exposed, and when dry,

rule lines on it with India ink to form small squares. To make the ink

adhere to the film, dust the latter with talcum powder.

To use the screen, slide the film to be enlarged in place and set it

for the size of enlargement, focusing roughly. Remove the film or plate

and put the screen in its place. The camera may now be brought to a

perfect focus with ease, as the black lines show up sharp and clear on

the screen. When the focus has been determined the screen is removed

and the film replaced.

The squares may be drawn from ¹⁄₄-in. size down to the smallest it

is possible to make. For large views it is easier to focus with the

smaller squares. If the squares are made to a certain size they can

be measured when thrown on the screen and the degree of enlargement

determined.--Contributed by R. H. Galbreath, Denver, Colorado.

* * * * *

¶The longitudinal carriage handle should never be held in the hand

when cutting threads.

An Indian Snake Game

[Illustration: Throwing the Snow Snake in Tracks Made through the Snow

with a Log: Each Player Tries to Get His Snake First Out at the End of

the Track More Times Than His Opponents]

Ask any Canadian Indian what a snow snake is, and he will tell you that

it is a piece of twisted wood, such as a wild grape vine, about 5 or

6 ft. long, and 1 in. or over in thickness, stripped of its bark and

polished. It is grasped with one hand in the center and given a strong

forward throw at the tail end by the other hand, while at the same

time the hold in the center is loosened. With a hard bottom and about

1 in., or more, of light snow on top--ideal conditions for playing the

game--the Indian snake will travel for a long distance when thrown by

an expert, and to a novice seeing the snake traveling along at a rapid

speed, raising and lowering its head as the wood vibrates from side to

side, its resemblance to the real reptile is perfect.

When the Indians have tests of skill with the snake they make tracks

through the snow by drawing a log in it, and sometimes as many as a

dozen tracks are made side by side, and a dozen snakes are sent along

at once. The one who makes his snake emerge from the end of the track

first the most times out of a certain number of throws, takes the

prize. The trick of throwing the snake is not at all hard to acquire,

and it makes an exciting game.--J. E. Noble, Toronto, Can.

Storage of Wood for Cabinetwork

When working with wood to be made into furniture, or other

constructions of a high grade of workmanship, the ends of the finished

pieces should be shellacked in order to prevent moisture from entering

the ends. The ends are more susceptible to moisture, as the pores of

the wood are exposed. The application of this remedy will often prevent

warping or winding of boards, which is particularly distressing after a

piece has been shaped to its final size.

The pieces should be stored in a warm, dry room, and in any event care

should be taken that they are exposed evenly. If a board is placed

on the top of a pile of similar pieces, it will be noted that, if

left overnight and the weather becomes rainy, the upper piece will be

warped. This is caused by the absorption of moisture on the upper side,

the resulting expansion forcing the piece to warp or curve.

Long pieces of wood under process should be set on end while being

stored temporarily. The permanent storage should be in racks having

supports about 2 ft. apart. If the supports are too far apart, the

boards may warp or wind at intervening points. Boards in piles should

be separated by strips about 1 in. thick, set about 3 ft. apart, in

order that the lumber may be open to the air. This will keep the stock

more uniformly dry.

Hanging Heavy Rug on a Line for Beating

[Illustration: When the Rug is Placed on the Line It is Easily Raised

by Pulling the Rope Ends]

An easy way to put a heavy carpet, or rug, over a clothesline is to

fasten two pulleys, one to the house and the other to a post or tree,

or on two posts, and hang the line between them; then pull the rug

over the line and draw up the ends of the line. A very heavy rug can

be easily hung in this manner. The line should be long enough to reach

over the pulleys and to the ground and have end enough at both supports

for fastening.

Repairing a Broken Metal Cross

[Illustration]

A metal cross, the shank of which was imbedded in a plaster ball, broke

off level with the top. Not wishing to remove some of the plaster to

take out the shank, I soldered a stout brass pin on the back of the

cross, allowing the pin to project far enough to fit solidly into a

small hole back of the shank. This allowed the cracked edges to fit

closely together so that the crack could be entirely concealed with a

touch of bronze paint.--Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

To Determine the Efficiency of Electrically Heated Devices

[Illustration: Connections to the Voltmeter and Ammeter for Measuring

the Input to an Electric Heater]

The efficiency of any machine is defined as being the ratio of the

output to the input expressed as a percentage, and both quantities must

be measured in the same units. For example, the output of a motor is

10 hp. when the power taken by the motor from the electric circuit to

which it is connected is 9,325 watts. What is the efficiency? Since the

output must be expressed in the same units it is necessary to change

the 10 horsepower to watts or the 9,325 watts to horsepower. There are

746 watts in each horsepower. The 9,325 watts are equivalent to 9,325 ÷

746 or 12.5 hp. The efficiency is then equal to 10 ÷ 12.5 or .8; that

is, the output is .8 of the input or, when multiplied by 100 to change

it to percentage, 80 percent.

By way of an example, consider the efficiency of an electric heater,

like the one shown in the illustration, which is immersed in water

placed in a suitable vessel. The energy input to this heater in a given

time may be easily determined by measuring the current passing through

the heater circuit and the difference in pressure between the terminals

of the heater. These measurements may be made, in case the heater is

operated on a direct circuit, by means of any ammeter and voltmeter of

suitable capacity, connected as shown. If the heater is operated on

an alternating-current circuit, only alternating-current instruments

can be used, as certain types of instruments will not operate when

connected to such a circuit. In either case, the product of the ammeter

reading in amperes and the voltmeter reading in volts will give the

power taken by the heater in watts, assuming the heater winding to

be noninductive. If the heater winding is not noninductive, then the

current and the electrical pressure will no longer be in phase when the

device is operating on an alternating-current circuit, and a wattmeter

must be used. Practically all heating elements are wound noninductively

so that the power may be measured by means of an ammeter and voltmeter.

The energy taken by a heater in a given time will be equal to the

product of the average power and the time. For example, if the heater

takes 300 watts for 30 minutes--¹⁄₂ hour--then the energy consumed

is equal to 300 times ¹⁄₂ or 150 watt-hours, which is equal to .15

kilowatt-hour.

To determine the output of the heater is a little more difficult, but

it may be approximated as follows: Since the object of the device is to

convert electrical energy into heat energy the output must be measured

in heat units. The unit of heat most commonly employed is the calorie,

which is the heat required to raise the temperature of one gram of

water one degree centigrade. Hence, if a certain weight of water has

its temperature increased a definite number of degrees centigrade by

the electric heater, then the total heat imparted to the water in

calories will equal the weight of the water in grams multiplied by

the change in temperature in degrees centigrade. Of course, the heat

generated by the heater exceeds that obtained by the above calculation,

due to the fact that some heat is imparted to the vessel containing

the water and to the supports for the vessel, but it is only the heat

imparted to the water that must be considered, as the other heat is not

useful.

When the temperature of the water is raised to the boiling point and a

part of the water is evaporated, the foregoing method of calculating

the heat imparted to the water no longer holds good, and the following

method must be used. Weigh the water before and immediately after the

test to determine the amount of evaporation. For each gram of water

evaporated there will be required approximately 536 calories, and the

heat in calories imparted to the water to raise its temperature to

the boiling point will be equal to the difference between 100 and the

initial temperature of the water multiplied by the weight of the water

at the start. To determine the efficiency, the input to the heating

element in electrical units must be changed to heat units which may be

done by multiplying the power in watts by the time in seconds and this

product in turn by .24, giving the result in calories. The following

example may serve as a help in performing such an experiment or test.

Weight of water at the start 500.0 grams.

Weight of water at the end of test 474.5 grams.

Temperature of water at the start 25 deg. C.

Average current taken by the heater 6.5 amperes.

Average pressure at the heater terminals 110 volts.

Time heater is connected 5¹⁄₂ minutes.

Change in temperature of the water 75 deg. C.

Heat developed in heater:

6.5 × 110 × 5¹⁄₂ × 60 × .24 = 56,628 calories.

Heat absorbed by water in coming

to boiling point: 500 × 75 = 37,500 calories.

Heat used in evaporating 25.5

grams of water: 536 × 25.5 = 13,668 calories.

Total heat absorbed by water 51,168 calories.

Efficiency of heater:

51,168

------ × 100 = 90.4 per cent.

56,628

This value of efficiency may be increased by insulating the vessel with

a nonconductor of heat and providing a covering for it, thus decreasing

the losses to the air and surrounding objects.

The efficiency of an electric stove or electric iron, or, in fact, any

electrically heated device, may be determined in a manner similar to

the water heater. In the case of a stove, place a vessel filled with

water on it and measure the heat imparted to the water in a given time,

also the input to the heating element in the same time, from which data

the efficiency may be calculated. In the case of an electric iron,

dampened cloths may be ironed and the actual water evaporated by the

iron, determined by weighing the cloths before and after the ironing,

together with the increase in weight of the cloth on the ironing board,

the time the iron is in use and the temperature of the cloths. The

actual water evaporated is the difference in the weight of the cloths

before and after ironing, minus the increase in weight of the cloth on

the ironing board, which takes up some of the moisture from the cloths

being ironed.

Earthen Mustard Pots Used as Acid Jars

[Illustration: A Bottle Made from an Earthen Mustard Pot to Contain

Acid]

A small earthen mustard pot of the type shown makes an ideal acid pot

for the bench, as it is not only acid-proof but will not upset so

easily as the ordinary acid bottle. The large cork, or stopper of soft

wood, thoroughly boiled in hot paraffin, is bored for the insertion of

another paraffined cork holding the acid-brush handle. If a coat of

paraffin is given the handle, it will easily resist the action of the

acid and last much longer.

Squeezing Paste from Tubes

[Illustration]

Tubes of paste, glue, etc., may be more easily handled by applying an

ordinary key, such as found on most cans containing fish put up in

oil. The end of the tube is inserted in the slot of the key and then

turned.--Contributed by J. H. Priestly, Lawrence, Mass.

Seeing an Alternating Current in a Mirror

It will almost appear impossible to those unfamiliar with laboratory

methods that one may watch the vibrations--3,600 per minute--of an

alternating current in a little pocket mirror without the use of any

apparatus other than a telephone receiver. The experiment is very

interesting and instructive, one that may be performed at practically

no expense.

[Illustration: The Alternations of the Current may be Seen by Looking

in the Mirror]

Take an ordinary inexpensive watchcase receiver, drill a hole in the

cover for a short piece of brass tubing, to make a gas connection, and

then plug up the center opening with a cork, into which is tightly

fitted a piece of ¹⁄₈-in. tubing. The upper end of this should be

closed with a plug having a central opening about the size of a pin.

Procure a small rectangular pocket mirror and remove the celluloid

covering, and then, across the back, solder a piece of straight wire to

form a vertical spindle, about which the mirror may be rotated. Connect

any resistance, such as a magnet coil of 10 or 20 ohms, in series with

an incandescent lamp, and then connect the receiver terminals to the

ends of this resistance. In this manner an ideal alternating-current

supply of a few volts to operate the receiver safely is secured. Turn

on the gas only sufficient to produce a narrow pencil of flame, not

over 1 in. long. Mount the mirror as shown, or hold the spindle between

the thumb and forefinger of the left hand while rocking it back and

forth with the right. Ordinarily only a streak of light will appear,

but immediately upon turning on the current this streak will be broken

up into a series of regular waves, flatter or sharper according to the

speed with which the mirror is rocked. After carefully noting the wave

form, connect the receiver with the primary of an ordinary medical

coil, across the make-and-break, and note the marked difference in the

waves.

By replacing the receiver with a block of wood having a circular

depression, about 2 in. in diameter and ¹⁄₈ in deep, over which is

pasted a disk of smooth paper, the waves set up by the human voice may

be observed if the talking is done loudly and close to the disk. The

gas connection in this case is made from the back of the block, as

shown. As the several vowels are sounded, the characteristic wave from

each will be seen in the mirror. It is also interesting to increase the

pitch of the voice and note how much finer the waves become.

Homemade Screen-Door Check

[Illustration: Air-Cushion Check Made of a Bicycle Foot Pump for a

Screen Door]

An outside screen door causes considerable annoyance by slamming

when exposed to the wind, even if it is equipped with a bumper.

Nothing short of a door check will prevent this slamming, so I made

a very simple pneumatic check for our door, which works entirely

satisfactorily.

A discarded bicycle foot pump was procured and hinged to the casing

over the door, as shown in the illustration. The hinge was made as

follows: Two holes, A, were drilled through the stirrup, as near the

foot plate as possible; two ordinary screw eyes were turned into the

door casing at B, and two pins were passed through the holes in the

screw eyes and the holes in the stirrup. This allows the pump to swing

when the door is opened. The end of the plunger rod C is flattened and

a hole drilled through it to receive the pin at the top of the bracket

D, which is screwed firmly to the door.

The action of the pump when the door is opened can be readily

understood. The check is adjusted very easily by the machine screw E,

which controls the exhaust of the air when the door closes. The screw

is turned into the hole in the base of the pump where the pipe was

originally connected. One side of the end of the screw is slightly

flattened to allow a better adjustment. The pump can be quickly removed

by pulling out the upper pin in the hinge part.--Contributed by M. C.

Woodward, San Diego, California.

Bushing Made of Brass Tip on Cartridge Fuse

[Illustration]

In order to fasten a short piece of tubing in a socket which had become

worn to a funnel shape, without having to tap the socket and put in a

threaded bushing, it was fixed as follows: One of the brass tips on a

spent cartridge fuse was cut off and one of its ends filed tapering.

After trimming the fiber lining so that it would fit snugly over the

tube, it was driven home. The combination of brass and fiber adjusted

itself nicely to the shape of the worn socket and made a tight fit.

Opening Springs for a Tennis-Racket Clamp

[Illustration]

When putting a tennis racket in a press, it is difficult to keep the

press open to let the racket slip in. This can be easily remedied

by simply putting a small coil spring around each of the four

bolts, as shown. This will always open the press when the bolts are

loosened.--Contributed by W. X. Brodnax, Jr., Bethlehem, Pa.

Magic-Paper Fortune Telling

At outdoor carnivals and fairs there is usually a fortune teller who

uses a glass wand to cause one’s fortune to appear on a pad of paper.

Anyone may perform this trick by observing the following directions.

Instead of a glass wand use a long, narrow bottle of glass. Dip a new

pen into copper sulphate, diluted with six parts of water, and write

out the “fortune” on a piece of paper. The writing, when dry, will not

be visible. Next procure two corks to fit the bottle. An unprepared

cork is placed in the bottle and the other is pocketed, after hollowing

it out and inserting a small sponge soaked in pure ammonia.

The bottle with the cork is passed out for examination. The cork is

casually placed into the pocket after it is returned by a bystander. A

pad of paper is then proffered and an initial is placed on the pad of

paper by the person whose “fortune” is to be told. The paper is rolled

up, with the prepared side on the inside, and inserted into the glass

bottle. The fumes of ammonia will develop the mysterious message. The

trick can be repeated if several prepared sheets of paper are on hand,

and always proves of interest in a party of young persons.

Common Mistakes in Model Making

BY H. J. GRAY

Models made as a pastime or for exhibition purposes should represent

correctly the full-sized machine, not only as regards general design

but also in the proportioning of parts, the finish, and the choice of

materials. The satisfaction derived from the possession of a model is

greater when it is truly representative. Study and careful measurement

of the original are necessary to attain this result, and provide

valuable experience in the application of correct mechanical principles.

The most conspicuous, though perhaps not the most frequent, errors

made by amateurs are in the proportioning of the various parts. This

usually arises from insufficient study of the original machine, and is

often sufficiently glaring to attract the attention even of a casual

observer. The foundation or base of a model stationary engine, for

example, is often painted to resemble brickwork. This is correct,

provided the spaces are proportioned so as to represent bricks and not

three-ton slabs of granite.

Mistakes are made in the selection of pulley wheels, both as regards

the character and the size of the pulley that would be suitable for the

particular purpose.

The “cheese-head” or flat-head machine screw appears to have a peculiar

fascination for the model maker, judging from the frequency with which

it is misplaced. It is only necessary to consider what would happen

in a full-sized machine if such screws were used for making joints in

valve rods, cylinder covers, slide bars, for fixing bearing caps, and

the like, to realize how completely such a defect mars the appearance

of a model to a discriminating eye. Bolts, or, in some cases, studs and

nuts, should be used to give an appearance of correct workmanship.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 3

FIG. 2

FIG. 4

Details of Correct and Incorrect Practice in Model Making: Fig. 1,

Valve Rod Joined by “Cheese-Head” Screws, Wrong, and Joined by Joint

and Pin; Fig. 2, Bearing Cap Fixed with Flat-Head Machine Screws,

Wrong, and with Studs and Nuts; Fig. 3, Cylinder Cover Fixed with

Flat-Head Machine Screws, Wrong, and with Studs and Nuts; Fig. 4,

Representation of a Brick Foundation, Incorrectly on Side, and

Correctly on End]

Many novices make a serious mistake in the character of the finish

given to the various parts. This usually results through devoting

insufficient attention to the method of manufacture adopted in

engineering practice. Under the impression that a mottled appearance

gives an ornamental effect, they will make a shaft end with a scraped

finish. To the casual observer there would be nothing amiss, but a

mistake of this kind would offend the trained eye of an engineer,

because it is entirely unrepresentative. The object of scraping sliding

surfaces is to obtain a greater degree of flatness by removing small

inequalities. As the subsequent use of a file would only undo the work

of a scraper, the surface is permitted to remain mottled, as left by

the scraping tool. But the end of an engine shaft is not a sliding

surface, and in engineering practice would be finished in a lathe.

Nickelplating is often resorted to in order to produce a brilliant and

supposedly pleasing finish to the model of a casting. This is obviously

wrong, for the actual casting--which might weigh tons--would be

painted, and not electroplated.

Locomotive wheels or stacks of polished brass add to the appearance of

a model only in the eyes of the uninitiated. Few persons would care to

risk a railroad journey if the engine had brass wheels. Iron or steel

is the correct material to use. Brass is also often used instead of

iron for cylinders, connecting rods, and starting levers on models, or

for steam pipes, which should be made of steel or copper.

In certain cases there may be unusual difficulties in using the

correct material for a machine part made to a small scale. It is then

permissible to use other material, provided some attempt is made to

disguise the fact by means of an appropriate finish. Copperplating,

for example, may be used to disguise some other material, if the parts

should properly be made of copper. It is often convenient to make

a model boiler of brass. It should not be polished but bronzed, to

represent the iron or steel plates of a full-size boiler.

Take-Down Emergency Oars

[Illustration: When Knocked down the Oars Occupy Small Space in a Boat]

Owners of sail or power boats will find the take-down oars shown in the

sketch easily made and of value in an emergency far out of proportion

to the space occupied in a boat. A pair of ordinary oars was cut as

shown, and pipe fittings were attached to the ends to form a detachable

joint. When knocked down the oars may be stored in a seat cupboard, or

other convenient place.--Contributed by H. E. Ward, Kent, Wash.

How to Make Propeller Blades Quickly

Requiring a number of propeller blades for use in making models of

windmills, and other constructions, I found that I could save much time

and obtain a satisfactory set of propeller blades by using ordinary

shoehorns of the same size. The small ends of the horns were flattened

out so that they could be fastened to pieces of wood for bearings, and

then hammered to the proper shape for cutting the air, or receiving the

force of the wind.

Bench Stop

[Illustration]

Serviceable bench stops may be made by grooving pieces of maple, or

other close-grained, hard wood and fitting strips of clock spring into

them, as shown in the sketch. The pieces must fit the holes in the

bench top snugly, and the spring will then prevent them from slipping

out. The end of the spring fastened to the stop should be annealed so

that a hole for the screw may be drilled into it readily.--Contributed

by Stanley Mythaler, Spring Valley, Minn.

How to Make a Good Putty

To make a good putty the following formula should be used: Mix equal

parts of firmly ground whiting and white lead with enough linseed oil

to make a thick liquid; add enough commercial putty to this to make the

consistency of regular putty. This putty will not crack or crumble, and

it costs very little to make. If desired, the commercial putty may be

left out and enough whiting added to take up the liquid. The life of

this putty is four times greater than a commercial putty.--Contributed

by L. E. Fetter, Portsmouth, N. H.

Cupboard for Kitchen Utensils

[Illustration]

The illustration shows a style of a cupboard in which kitchen utensils

can be kept in an orderly manner without taking up a great deal of

space. The cupboard is tall and narrow, and the interior face of each

side is scored at even intervals with saw cuts, ¹⁄₄ in. deep. In the

grooves are placed shelves, which are merely squares of galvanized

iron. By placing the shelf in the proper grooves the space is adapted

to the size of the utensil. The small floor space occupied allows

the cupboard to be placed in the part of the kitchen that is most

convenient.

A Diminishing Card Trick

[Illustration: FIG. 2

FIG. 1

FIG. 3

Reducing the Size of a Playing Card While Holding It in One Hand]

A clever diminishing card trick may be played with a piece of paper

made up as shown in the illustration. Show the audience the whole card,

Fig. 1, then fold it halfway and show again, Fig. 2, then again, Fig.

3. If this is done quickly it will not be noticed. A piece of paper

is used the size of a regular playing card, and an ace is made on one

side. When it is folded over one side of the reduced size is made to

show the same ace, then another fold is made and the smaller ace is

made.--Contributed by Louis Waherer, Tiffin, Ohio.

Table Sockets for Electrical Heating Apparatus

[Illustration: The Extra and Narrow Table Leaf Carries the Electric

Sockets for the Cooking Apparatus]

The usual method of running a wire from a chandelier or wall bracket to

a heating device on the dining-room table is inconvenient as well as

unsightly. This I overcome by making a special narrow leaf to put in

the extension top into which sockets are set flush for extension wires.

These are connected to a floor socket, or a line can be run under the

carpet or rug.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

Dressing for Fishline

A quick-drying dressing for fishlines may be prepared as follows: Mix

equal parts of boiled linseed oil and gold sizing; apply this to the

line in a moderately thick coat. Dressing which will not dry as rapidly

but which will resist the water as well is made by melting together

4 parts of paraffin and 1 part of resin. Melt the paraffin in a deep

metal vessel over a small fire, and add the resin after the paraffin

has dissolved. Care must be taken not to permit the fire to come into

contact with the mixture. Allow it to cool slightly and then coil the

line in the vessel. Draw it through a piece of wet sponge held between

the fingers. This will cool the mixture rapidly and the line may then

be stretched and polished with a wet rag.--Contributed by A. E. Tetu,

Ottawa, Canada.

Utensil Rack for Camp Fire

[Illustration: Iron Pipes Held by Pointed Steel Rods Provide a Simple

and Satisfactory Support for Cooking Utensils in the Camp]

A compact, simple device for holding cooking utensils over a camp fire

is shown in the sketch. It may be collapsed into a small bundle and

is of light weight, factors which are important in camping equipment.

The device consists of two sections of pipe, A, supported on rods, B,

having eyes bent at their upper ends. The lower end of the supports is

pointed and may be driven into the ground so as to spread the pipes

more at one end than at the other, thus providing for large as well as

small utensils.

Wheelbarrow as Tennis-Court Marker

[Illustration: Tennis Courts may be Laid Out Quickly by the Use of a

Wheelbarrow to Which a Can Containing a Thin Lime Mixture has been

Fixed, as Shown]

Many home tennis courts are not provided with a marker, and the use

of a wheelbarrow for this purpose has been found convenient. A can

provided with hooks at its upper edge was attached to the front of the

wheelbarrow, as shown in the sketch, and the lime mixture, very thin,

poured into it. Holes were made at the lower edge of the can so that

the liquid ran onto the wheel and was transferred to the court. The

holes must be made large enough so that they will not clog quickly,

and the mixture must be very thin. It is easy to cover the outline

several times if necessary. Hence, to use a thin mixture will be found

economical, rather than to waste time removing sediment from the spout.

Retouching Negatives for Printing

Portraits taken out of doors sometimes show unusually heavy shadows

under the eyebrows and chin. The printing of these through the

negatives may be altered by applying a little red or blue color on

the glass side of the negative. Stippling the surface by contact with

the texture of the skin also aids in removing the heaviness of such

shadows.

Mat varnish, containing a small amount of iodine dissolved in it, and

applied to the glass side of a negative, will cause much lighter prints

than if the negative is permitted to remain with heavy shadows. The

varnish will dry quickly, and it may then be scraped off carefully or

removed with benzole from the parts of the negative which are not to be

lightened. Care must be taken in scraping away the varnish in order to

prevent scratches.

Hand-Operated Whirling Fan

The whirling fan illustrated is more convenient than a fan of the

ordinary type, and may be made by a boy of only moderate mechanical

skill. The materials necessary for its construction are easily

available in the home. The sketch at the center shows the completed

fan, and the smaller sketch at the right illustrates the method of

operation. The details of construction are shown in the working

drawings.

[Illustration: The Whirling Fan Is Superior to One of the Ordinary

Variety and may be Made at Home of Materials Readily Available. The

Small Sketch at the Right Shows the Method of Operation, and the

Details of Construction are Shown in the Larger Sketch and in the

Working Drawings]

The wing of the fan is cut from a sheet of Bristol board, and is 6 in.

long and 5¹⁄₂ in. wide. It is formed by gluing two pieces together, the

upper end of the driving shaft being glued into place at the same time.

The small sketch at the left shows the size and shape of the piece of

wood into which the driving shaft is fastened at its upper end.

The driving rod, shown at the right of the larger sketch, is ¹⁄₈ in. in

diameter and 9¹⁄₂ in. long. The flattened portions near the upper end

are drilled to receive the ends of the cords which wind and unwind on

the shaft at the top of the handles. A brace of similar wire is fixed

near the middle of the handles so that they pivot on its ends when the

lower ends of the handles are pressed together, as shown in the sketch

at the right. The handles are of wood, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, an

6¹⁄₂ in. long. Their ends are rounded and slight notches are cut into

the corners near the ends, to provide for the tying of the cords.

A wide rubber band, slipped over the handles near their upper ends,

causes them to close at the top, and when the fan is in use this will

reverse the rotation of the fan. It is necessary only to squeeze the

handles inward, and the reverse action is repeated.

Photographing Electric Sparks

Electric sparks may be photographed with simple equipment, and the

process offers a diversion from the common subjects for photography.

The materials necessary are a spark coil and current source, a

photographic plate, facilities for developing it, and a sheet of tin

foil. The illustration shows a typical photograph of an electric spark,

and the variety possible is unlimited.

[Illustration]

The process, which must be performed in a dark room with a ruby light,

is as follows: Over the mouth of a small glass bottle, partly filled

with talcum powder, tie a piece of cheesecloth, to act as a sieve.

Arrange the material on a table, the sheet of tin foil lying flat, and

a photographic plate on top of it, coated side upward.

Spread a thin layer of the powder on the plate, through the sieve.

Attach a needle to an electric wire and fix the other end of the wire

to one of the secondary posts of the spark coil. Attach a second wire

to the other post of the spark coil and to the sheet of tin foil. Care

must be taken in handling the needle that only the insulated portion,

where it is joined to the wire, comes in contact with the fingers, or a

shock may result. Place the point of the needle near the middle of the

plate and turn on the current, permitting it to produce a spark of not

more than one second’s duration. If the exposure is longer than that

the result will not be satisfactory. Wipe off the powder and develop

the plate. If care has been taken in the process, a photograph similar

to the one shown in the illustration will result.

* * * * *

¶Shoulder hooks fixed about a shop, so that handsaws may be placed on

them by the handle, will save damage to saws.

Cannon-Shell Dinner Bell

Being called to dinner by the stirring peal of a bell made of a cannon

shell is a novelty in use in Toronto. The bell shown in the sketch was

made of a 3-in. brass shell, and when struck with a gavel gives out

tones that penetrate throughout a large house.

[Illustration: Its Tones Penetrate a Large House]

The cap piece was removed at A, and an eyebolt fastened in place with

a nut on each side. The gong was suspended from a wall bracket made of

a band of brass fastened to the wall.--Contributed by James B. Noble,

Toronto, Canada.

Use for Old Magazines

Magazines are often thrown away because of the rapidity with which they

accumulate. Since most readers care to save only certain articles, a

good plan is to tear the magazines apart, removing the desired articles

and binding them in a separate volume. If this is carefully and

systematically done, and an index prepared, the volume will be of value

and interest.

Flatiron Polisher

Housewives, and others who appreciate the need for a smooth surface on

a flatiron, will find the polisher shown in the sketch a convenient aid

in keeping their irons in proper shape.

A wooden block, about 4 in. wide and 6 in. long, was fitted with five

thin patches of beeswax as shown in the upper sketch. The holes bored

into the wood were made large enough to fit the wax, which may be

purchased in large thimble-shaped pieces. A double layer of linen, or

other strong cloth, was fitted over the side having the wax imbedded in

it, and a piece of fine emery cloth was folded over the other side of

the block. A band of sheet iron riveted together so as to fit snugly

over the edges holds the cloth and emery cloth in place.

[Illustration]

The flatiron may be polished by rubbing it on the emery-cloth side of

the block and waxed slightly by rubbing it over the cloth side.

Clothespin-Basket Hook

[Illustration]

To conveniently support a clothespin basket along the line on which the

clothes are being hung, a wire support can be provided, bent to form a

hook at both ends and the center shaped into a V-bend. With the basket

supported by the two ends, the wire can be slid along the clothesline

as required.--Contributed by N. R. Moore, Cherokee, Iowa.

* * * * *

¶Varnishing should as a rule be done in a room having a temperature

of 80° F., and in some instances 15° higher is desirable.

Leather Tire Patch

A leather patch fixed over a tire puncture with shellac will be found

to give satisfaction and may be attached easily. Cut the patch somewhat

larger than the puncture and thin out its edges with a knife. Melt

flakes of shellac in a flame, fusing them, and rub the hot mixture on

the patch and tire, smoothing it down quickly. Such a patch may be

placed over a plug and will aid in holding it in place.--Contributed by

Robert C. Knox, Petersburg, Fla.

A Perpetual Whirligig

Camphor is the motive power which drives the device shown in the

illustration, and it will cause the whirligig to revolve for several

days, or until the camphor is consumed.

[Illustration]

The whirligig is made of a piece of cork, ¹⁄₂ in. square, with a needle

stuck into each of its four sides. Smaller pieces of cork, to which

pieces of camphor have been fixed by means of sealing wax, are attached

to the ends of the needles. Care should be taken to keep the needles

and cork free from oil or grease, as this will retard their movement.

As soon as the device is placed in a dish of water it will start

whirling and continue to do so as long as motive power is supplied. A

small flag or other ornament may be attached to the center cork.

Testing and Caring for Files

To test a file hold it so that the light will be reflected sharply from

the teeth and observe whether their edges are flattened and appear

as white lines. If so, the file is dull and should be recut if of

considerable size and value.

Files should not be thrown into drawers and mixed with other tools,

but should be carefully set in racks or drawers for the purpose. A

mechanic would not throw a straightedge into a drawer containing other

tools, and a file should be given similar consideration, as every nick

in the teeth impairs the efficiency of the file.

Files may be sharpened by dipping them into sulphuric acid, but care

must be taken not to permit the acid to come into contact with one’s

clothes or person. Water is used to wash off the acid.

Files should be provided with individual handles. This prevents injury

to the hand of the worker and aids in the proper use of the file.

Handles should be carefully fitted and be made of a size proportionate

to the file. In removing a handle from a file, strike the handle at the

end nearest the file, by sliding a piece of hard wood along the surface

of the file, as the blow is struck with it. Do not use another file or

metal object in thus removing a handle, as it will injure the latter.

Catching Large Fish with a Teaspoon

Teaspoons may be made into alluring trolling spoon hooks, of a size

suitable for catching large fish, by the addition of hooks, as shown in

the sketch.

Drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes near the end of the spoon handle, the tip of the

bowl, and near the handle of the latter.

Procure three sets of triple hooks, a line swivel, and a strip of lead,

about 1 in. long. Rivet one end of the swivel and the loop of one of

the triple hooks into the hole of the handle. Wire the lower end of

this triple hook to the handle and with the same piece of copper wire

secure a second triple hook at the thin part of the handle. Drill a

hole through the lead strip and rivet it, together with a third triple

hook, into the upper hole of the bowl. Fix the lower end of this hook

by binding it with copper wire, through the hole near the tip of the

bowl.

[Illustration: Once a Fish has Struck This Bait, It Is Seldom Able to

Escape]

This hook has been tested in the waters of Puget Sound and is a deadly

lure for rock cod, and other fish weighing up to 12 lb. The famous

barracuda and rock bass of the Catalina Islands have also been caught

with it. By permitting the lure to sink to the bottom and bringing it

up a yard or two with a quick jerk, it acts as a “jig” bait. It may

also be used in trolling. Once a fish has struck, it is seldom able to

escape.--Contributed by O. P. Avery, Los Angeles, Cal.

An Easily Made Counter

[Illustration: An Accurate Account can be Kept of Parts or Score for

Any Game by Pulling the Strips]

From unruled paper cut a piece, as shown at A in the sketch, and make

slits parallel and evenly spaced with a sharp knife. Also cut six

strips, similar to the one shown at B, to fit the slits cut in A. The

strips are numbered as shown and inserted on the under side of A, and

by pulling the strips as shown, one can count up the number of parts or

keep tally on any game. By making more slits and using more strips very

large numbers can be recorded.

* * * * *

¶Be sure to keep the screw and nut in the jaws of a drill chuck clean

and well oiled, to prevent broken screws.

To Uncork a Bottle with a String

A convenient method of uncorking a bottle, from which liquid is to be

poured frequently, is to thread a strong string or cord through the

cork, tying it in a loop, which remains at the opening of the bottle.

The cork may be removed easily by drawing on the string. This is more

satisfactory than the use of a corkscrew, as the latter frequently

tears the cork.--Lee A. Collins, Louisville, Ky.

Wood Turning on an Emery Grinder

[Illustration: The Hand Emery Grinder of the Home Workshop Used as a

Substitute for a Lathe]

The experimenter often requires small turned-wood pulleys, circular

bases for switches, etc. To produce these it is not necessary to

have recourse to a wood lathe, if a good emery grinder is at hand.

Simply clamp the grinder firmly to the workbench, remove the grinding

wheel, and fasten on a block to serve as a faceplate. This may be

held in place by the nut that holds the wheel and should be trued

up with a small chisel when in place. A tool rest may be improvised

by temporarily nailing one or more blocks of wood to the bench. The

article desired should be first roughed out with a saw and then

fastened to the faceplate with screws or brads, after which the actual

wood turning will require very little time.

Three Bathroom Kinks

The devices for the bathroom illustrated may be made easily and

contribute to the comfort, convenience, and, in the case of the fixed

window pole, to the safety of the room. A wall curtain, A, placed on

the towel rod, or hung on the wall beside the washbasin, is especially

convenient in keeping the walls unsoiled by children who make use of

the room and are likely to splash suds while washing. Double roller

shades on the window, as at B and C, give light and privacy as well.

[Illustration: The Fixed Window Pole Is an Inducement to Ventilation;

the Curtain Protects the Wall, and the Lower Shade Gives Light with

Privacy]

Poor ventilation in bathrooms occasionally causes asphyxiation and

is often a menace. The permanent fixing of the window pole D makes

it convenient to open the window, which operation is often neglected

through fear of drafts from the lower sash and the lack of a pole. Fig.

2 shows the top of the pole P, provided with a screw eye, S, which is

fastened to a metal strip, H.--D. L. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.

Prevents Soiling Goods after Oiling Sewing Machine

To prevent a sewing machine that has been oiled from soiling the

material, the following is a good method: Tie a small piece of ribbon

or cotton string around the needle bar near the point at which it grips

the needle.

[Illustration: A Pigeon House

By Robert Baker]

Pigeon houses need not be eyesores, as is often the case, but may

be made to harmonize with the surroundings, adding beauty to a dull

spot, and even making the grounds of a home more attractive. The house

described will accommodate 20 pigeons, and additional stories of the

same type may be added to provide for more. Nearly all of the wood

necessary may be obtained from boxes, and the other materials are also

readily available at small cost. The construction is such that a boy

handy with ordinary carpentry tools may undertake it successfully.

The house is constructed in general on principles used in buildings,

having a framed gable roof, rough-boarded and shingled. The interior

arrangement is original, being based on the Indian swastika or

good-luck sign. While the construction is simple, it must be carried

out systematically. The process outlined also follows in general the

typical methods in building construction.

The foundation need not be considered, since the house rests upon

a post, and the construction thus begins with the lower story. The

floor and the ceiling are similar in construction, as shown in Fig.

1. In framing them into the lower story, as may be observed in Fig.

8, the cleats are placed below on the floor and above in the ceiling.

The construction is identical, however. The cleats are fastened to

the boards with screws, although nails, clinched carefully, may be

used. The 4-in. hole at the center should be made accurately, so as

to fit the shoulder portion at the top of the post, shown in Fig. 2.

The latter may be cut of a length to suit; about 9 ft. will be found

convenient. The notches in the top of the post are to fit the ridge

pole and center rafters of the roof frame, as shown in Fig. 10. They

should not be made until the house is ready for the roof boards.

The pieces for the compartments, as arranged on the floor in Fig. 3,

are made next. Figs. 4 and 5 show the detailed sizes of these pieces,

of which four each must be made. The sizes shown must be followed

exactly, as they are designed to give the proper space for entrances

and to fit around the 4-in. square hole, through which the post is to

fit. The pieces marked A, B, and C, in Figs. 4 and 5, correspond to

those similarly marked in Fig. 3.

The pieces are nailed together to form the swastika in the following

manner:

Mark the pieces A, B, and C, as shown. Measure 4 in. from one end of

each piece marked A, and square a pencil line across, 4 in. from the

end. Arrange the pieces in pairs. Place one end of one piece against

the side of the other piece in the pair, so that the pencil line is

even with the end, permitting the 4-in. portion to project. Nail both

pairs in this position. Then fit the two parts together to form a 4-in.

square in the center, as shown in Fig. 3.

Fit the pieces C to the pieces B at an angle, as shown in Fig. 3,

trimming off the projecting corners where the pieces are joined. Nail

them together, and they are ready to be fixed to the end of the pieces

A, already nailed. By nailing the joined pieces B and C to the end of

the pieces A, as shown in Fig. 3, the swastika is completed. Fix it

into place, with the center hole exactly over the square hole in the

floor, by means of nails or screws driven through the floor.

Two small strips must now be nailed to the floor at each side of the

swastika. They should be exactly 4¹⁄₂ in. long, and are to hold the

slides, Fig. 9, which shut off the various compartments. The slides are

shown hanging by chains in the headpiece of this article, and are shown

in place in Fig. 8.

Fix the ceiling into place in the same manner, being careful that the

square holes fit together, and that the cleats are on the upper side.

Turn the construction over and fix into place the small strips for the

slides, as was done on the floor.

The fixed screens, Fig. 6, and the doors, Fig. 7, are constructed

similarly. They are built up of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, and vary in size to

fit their respective places in the framework. Observe that the fixed

screens are ¹⁄₄ in. higher than the doors, and that they are fastened

between the ceiling and floor, bracing them. The wire grating is

¹⁄₂-in. square mesh, and is fixed between the pieces of the doors and

the screens when they are built up.

The doors are shown secured by combination strap hinges, bent over

the baseboard. Plain butts may be used and the lower portion of the

hinge covered by the baseboard, a recess being cut to receive the part

covered. In the latter instance the doors should be fixed into place

immediately after the screens are set. Catches and chains may then be

placed on the doors. Next nail the baseboards into place. They are 2¹⁄₂

in. wide and may be mitered at the corners, or fitted together in a

square, or butt, joint. The latter joint may be nailed more readily.

The slides, shown in Fig. 9, may now be made and fitted into their

grooves. The handles are made of strips of band iron, drilled for

screws and bent into the proper shape. It is important that the slides

be constructed of three pieces, as shown, so that they will not warp

or curve from exposure. The main piece is cut 7³⁄₄ in. long, and the

strips, ¹⁄₂ in. square, are nailed on the ends.

The construction of the framing for the roof should next be taken up.

This probably requires more careful work than any other part of the

pigeon house, yet it is simple, as shown in Fig. 10. Note that the

rafters are set upon a frame, or plate as it is called, built up of

pieces 3 in. wide. It should be made ¹⁄₄ in. wider and longer on the

inside than the ceiling board, so as to fit snugly over it. The joints

at the corners are “halved” and nailed both ways. This gives a stronger

structure than butting them squarely and nailing them. The end rafters

should be fitted in before fixing the others. It is best to make a

diagram of the end of the roof framing on a sheet of paper, or a board,

and to fit the rafter joints in this way before cutting them. The

rafters are then nailed into place.

The “rough boards” to cover the rafters may now be nailed down. They

are spaced ¹⁄₂ in. apart so as to permit thorough drying, as is done

in larger buildings. They project 2 in. beyond the ends of the plate

frame, supporting the rafters. A ¹⁄₂-in. strip is nailed over the ends

to give a neat finish. The roof may be shingled, or covered with tar

paper, or any roofing material.

Nail a 1-in. strip under each end of the roof and nail the gable ends

into place. One gable end is provided with a door, as shown, and the

other has an opening fitted with a wire screen of the same size as the

door.

The gable story rests on the lower story, and the notches in the top of

the post should fit snugly to the ridge and center rafters, as shown in

Fig. 10. This will aid in supporting the house firmly. If additional

stories are added it would be well to place a post at each corner

of the house. The upper story may be removed for cleaning, or for

transporting the house.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

FIG. 5

FIG. 6

FIG. 7

FIG. 8

FIG. 10

The House Accommodates 20 Pigeons; Additional Stories may be Added.

Fig. 1, Floor and Ceiling; Fig. 3, Arrangement of Compartments; Fig.

8, Lower Story Assembled Ready for Roof Story; Fig. 10, Framing of the

Roof; Fig. 11, Side View, Showing Spacing of Roof Boards; Fig. 12, End

View, Showing Trim and Door on Gable End

FIG. 9

FIG. 11

FIG. 12]

The post should be sunk into the ground about 2¹⁄₂ ft. and set into

a concrete foundation, if convenient. This will insure a more nearly

permanent as well as a more rigid support. Care should be taken that

the post is set plumb and this can be accomplished if a plumb bob is

used. The post should be braced to keep it vertical, particularly if a

concrete foundation is poured and tamped around it.

The construction should be painted two coats, inside and out, of a

color to harmonize with buildings or other surroundings.

The cost of building the house shown in the illustration was $3.50 and

by using tar paper for the roof and discarded wire mesh, hinges, and

other fittings, this may be reduced considerably.

* * * * *

¶In matching molding into corners it is often difficult to make miter

joints. The molding may then be “coped” together by matching the end

of the piece to be joined to it with the curves or surface of the

molding. A coping saw is used in sawing the irregular end.

Roses Tinged Blue by Chemicals

[Illustration]

Roses may be colored without any detrimental effect by placing their

stems in a solution of 100 cubic centimeters of water, 2 grams of

saltpeter, and 2 grams of an aniline dye. A centerpiece of roses

colored to represent the national colors was made in this way and

proved very effective as a table decoration. A convenient way to color

the flowers is to place their stems in a test tube containing the

mixture.--Contributed by Chester Keene, Hoboken, N. J.

Making Photographic Trays

Serviceable trays for use in developing and printing photographs may be

made quickly of cardboard boxes of suitable sizes. Where one is unable

to transport readily a full photographic equipment these trays will

prove convenient as well as inexpensive. They are made as follows:

Procure boxes of proper sizes and see that they have no holes or

openings at the corners. Melt paraffin and pour it into the box,

permitting it to cover both outside and inside surfaces. If the

paraffin hardens too rapidly the box may be heated and the work

completed.--Contributed by Paul A. Baumeister, Flushing, N. Y.

Camp Lantern Made of a Tin Can

[Illustration]

Campers, and others who have need of an emergency lantern, may be

interested in the contrivance shown in the sketch, which was used

in preference to other lanterns and made quickly when no light was

at hand. It consists of an ordinary tin can, in the side of which

a candle has been fixed. A ring of holes was punched through the

metal around the candle and wires were placed at the opposite side

for a support. The glistening interior of the can reflects the light

admirably.--Contributed by F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.

* * * * *

¶Interior woodwork may be made proof against ordinary flame by

coating it with silicate of soda, known as water glass.

Sidecar for a Parcel-Delivery Bicycle

BY P. P. AVERY

Quick delivery of small packages within a two-mile radius can be

accomplished with a bicycle by a sturdy boy. An ordinary bicycle is

used, preferably one with coaster brake and mudguards. Iron braces, ¹⁄₄

by 1¹⁄₄ in., are shaped to make the framework, and the ends are looped

to fasten around the frame of the bicycle and the supporting fork of

the third wheel. This wheel is a bicycle front wheel with a fork.

A mudguard on the third wheel is desirable. Make the iron parts as

detailed, and fasten them into place. The body is made of ⁷⁄₈-in. wood,

preferably oak. The upper portion of the body is cut to receive the top

brace, which is not in the way in loading or unloading the packages.

Fasten the box with ¹⁄₄-in. carriage bolts, using a spring washer under

the nut wherever a joint is made between wood and iron. A canvas cover

can be cut to fit the top and secured at one end only, with three catch

knobs on the sides and corresponding eyelets in the canvas, keeping the

dust and rain from the interior of the body.

[Illustration: An Ordinary Strong Bicycle can be Made into a

Substantial Delivery Car by the Addition of a Body and a Third Wheel]

It is a good plan to stiffen the body with corner braces, using ¹⁄₈ by

³⁄₄-in. band iron. The floor of the body should be strongly fastened,

tongue-and-groove boards being used, and the side corners should be

fitted with iron braces at the bottom. The body may be extended farther

over the rear, if more loading space is required.

One coat of priming and one of paint finishes the box, and with the

name of the merchant on the front and rear, the whole makes a neat

advertising feature. Regarding the selection of a bicycle, since great

speed is not essential, the lower the gearing is, the easier it will be

to propel the load, and for ordinary work, where only small grades are

covered, a gear of about 65 will be found efficient.

Handy Use for Adhesive Tape

Adhesive tape is useful in the shop and for the home mechanic, for

many purposes: to mend broken handles temporarily; to bind up a cut

finger; to prevent a hammer or ax handle from slipping in the hands,

by applying tape around the handle; for making a ferrule for an awl,

chisel, etc.; around the nail set it will keep that tool from jarring

the hand; around a lead pencil in the vest pocket as a guard.

A Toy Machine Gun That Fires Wooden Bullets

[Illustration]

For use in the mimic battles which most boys like to stage in this

war time, an interesting mechanical toy that a boy can easily make

of materials picked up in the workshop, is a machine gun having a

magazine for wooden bullets, and which can be made as a single or a

double-barrel gun. The construction of the single-barrel arrangement

is detailed in the sketch and the modification for a double-barrel gun

is shown in the smaller diagram. It is a duplicate of the first type,

suitably mounted as shown. The gun is fired by turning the crank on the

wheel and the bullets can be quickly replaced in the magazine at the

top.

[Illustration: The Machine Gun is Fired by Turning the Crank at the

Wheel, the Pins on the Latter Drawing Back the Hammer, Which is Hooked

Up with a Rubber Band]

The support for the gun is made of wood and braced strongly at the

base. The gun proper is set into the top of the vertical piece, as

shown, and the magazine, which is bent from a piece of tin to the shape

detailed in the sectional view, fits on top of the breach of the gun.

The hammer, which drives the bullets, is made of a piece of stiff wire

bent to the shape shown. The lower curved end is connected to a small

nail set on a block at the shaft of the wheel. To fire the gun, the

hammer is drawn back by contact with the small nails set into the side

of the wheel. As the wheel is turned, the nails grip the hammer and

then suddenly release it, driving out the lowest bullet each time. The

bullets are piled in the magazine, as shown in the detailed view at the

right, where the rear view of the gun barrel is indicated.--Edward R.

Smith, Walla Walla, Washington.

Using Plate Holder as Printing Frame

A cumbersome part of a commercial photographer’s equipment when “on

the road” is his set of printing frames. Amateur photographers who

have cameras using plates of more than one size find these frames

an expensive part of their outfits. A method that is practical and

inexpensive for these requirements in many cases, is as follows: Place

the sensitized paper in the plate holder with the emulsion side up.

Then put the plate in the holder in the same way as if about to expose

it in a camera, but with the emulsion side down, so that the sensitized

side of the paper and the emulsion side of the plate are in contact.

The paper and plate are thus held in close contact without the use of

springs, as in the regular printing frames. The plate and paper can

be removed by pressing the spring catch at the bottom of the holder,

and the plate is not easily moved while in place.--Francis W. Clinton,

Brooklyn, New York.

* * * * *

¶Leaks in garden hose may be repaired by wrapping several layers of

adhesive tape over the break, lapping the edges carefully.

Wire Clips Weight Paper in Typewriter

Three wire paper clips linked together make a good weight for

typewriter sheets that keep rolling or blowing back over the carriage,

into the operator’s way, in a breezy office or where a fan is not

properly stationed. They may be quickly applied to the end of the

sheet, or batch of paper and carbon sheets, and removed as easily,

saving time and annoyance.--H. P. Roy, Kansas City, Mo.

Chain Weight Prevents Whipping of Flag

A length of chain, sewed into a hem at the lower edge of a flag makes

an inconspicuous and effective weight to prevent whipping of a flag

suspended from a horizontal staff. A piece of cord can be threaded

through the links of a chain to prevent it from rattling, if necessary.

Poultry-Fence Construction Economical of Netting

[Illustration]

Not wanting to put a high poultry netting on my fence to keep my

poultry at home, I devised the method shown, and was thus enabled to

use 24-in. wire instead of 48-in., thereby effecting a saving, as well

as not marring the appearance of the fence. Chickens will not attempt

to fly over this wire but once or twice, as they endeavor to alight

on the pickets of the fence instead of the wire, and consequently are

thrown back by striking the wire. The wire should be supported at each

post, as shown in the sketch.--Roy H. Poston, Flat River, Mo.

A Fort Built of Snow Blocks Made in Box Form

[Illustration: The Making of the Snow-Block Fort Is Nearly as Much Fun

as Daring the Enemy to Come and Capture It or Capturing the Enemy’s

Barricade]

[Illustration]

What boy does not enjoy a regular snowball fight--a battle, in

fact--especially when he has a fort of his own building to defend,

and his friends have one which he wants to capture? A way to build a

snow fort that will not crumble easily when the enemy charges it is

to pack the snow into a box form and build the structure of the snow

blocks, as shown in the photograph. Portholes can be provided and when

the snow melts slightly, and freezes again, a very solid wall results.

The form for the block, as detailed in the sketch, is made of a box,

arranged so that it is hinged at one corner and has a catch at the

corner diagonally opposite. The form is set on a wooden board and when

the snow is packed in solidly, the catch is opened and the form lifted

away from the block. It is then carried into position and another block

made on the same board. Several boards are handy in making the block

quickly.--H. S., Chicago, Ill.

* * * * *

¶In applying varnish over an old wood surface, or on new wood that

has become soiled, care should be taken to remove all traces of oil

or grease with benzine.

Model Steam Tractor Made by Boy

[Illustration: This Model Steam Tractor Is 28 Inches Long and Drives

Itself, Wood and Coal being Used as Fuel]

Boys, and others who like to make models, may be interested in a small

steam tractor I designed and built of scrap materials around the farm

shop. I used only the ordinary tools on hand in such a place. The steam

engine and tractor run smoothly, and the engine propels the tractor

just like a large machine of this kind. The tractor is 28 in. long and

14 in. high, and the boiler holds 1¹⁄₄ gal. The bore of the cylinder

is ⁷⁄₈ in. and its stroke 1³⁄₄ in. It was made from an old iron window

weight. I use wood and coal to fire the boiler, and steam can be got up

in a few minutes.--Albert H. Bennington, Park River, N. D.

Toboggan Made of Old Buggy Shafts

[Illustration: This Toboggan with Stout Runners Made from Buggy Shafts

can be Used like One of the Ordinary Type, but Works Best on Frozen

Snow]

A method of making a strong toboggan sled by nailing a suitable bottom

over sections cut from old buggy shafts, as shown in the sketch, can

be adapted easily for use with poles of about the same size. They can

be steamed and bent at the ends and the construction otherwise made as

shown. The shafts were cut to the length indicated, the curved front

end being sawed off. The bottom was carried up around the curved rear

end, and a strong bracing strip was bolted across them. One-half-inch

rope with leather loops provided handholds, and was also used as a

brace at each side of the front of the sled. Twisted wire may also be

used for this purpose. Cushions of the usual type can easily be made

for the toboggan.

Bicycles Driven as Three-Wheel Tandem after Breakdown

[Illustration: When the Front Wheel of One of the Bicycles Broke Down,

They were Rigged into a Tandem, and a Distance of Five Miles to Town

was Covered]

On a bicycle trip, when about five miles from town, the front axle of

my partner’s bicycle broke, and as neither of us wanted to walk, we

had to find some way of getting us both home. We removed the front

wheel from one of the bicycles, and set the front fork on the rear axle

of the undamaged machine, as shown in the sketch. The axle was just

long enough so that the sides of the fork could be bolted securely.

By careful riding we made the distance to town with only the slight

inconvenience of my partner having to carry the extra wheel on his

back--J. F. G., Mountain Grove, Mo.

* * * * *

¶Do not touch the inner surface of a tent or shelter in the rain, as

the water will drip from the spot touched.

Test Exposures for Bromide Enlargements

To avoid expensive waste of paper in making large bromide enlargements

the following device is useful: Cut an oblong sheet of stiff cardboard,

5¹⁄₄ by 4 in., with a central opening, measuring 3³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₂ in. Along

the lower edge of the central opening mark off five spaces of ³⁄₄ in.

each, and number them from 1 to 5. Glue a strip of cardboard, 1 in.

wide, at the top and the bottom of the oblong, on the back. Now glue

a second strip of cardboard over each of those just attached, making

the second strips slightly wider to form grooves similar to those in a

sliding-top box.

Cut a piece of cardboard, wide enough to slide easily in these grooves,

and about 7 in. long. In the center of it, cut an opening, 1¹⁄₂ in.

long and ³⁄₄ in. wide, with the longer dimension extending across the

strip. By inserting this slide into the grooves, the opening in it may

be shifted to correspond to any of the five ³⁄₄-in. indications at the

lower edge of the opening in the oblong frame.

Focus the enlargement on the easel and put the cap on the lens. Then

pin a 1¹⁄₂-in. strip of bromide paper where a good range of detail

will fall upon it. Pin the oblong card over the bromide strip and make

five successive exposures, of increasing duration, by sliding the

strip so that its opening is opposite the number indications on the

oblong. Note the particulars of exposure at the time and later develop

the strip of bromide paper. Suppose the exposures were of 8, 16, 24,

32, and 40 seconds’ duration, and upon development it was found that

the first and second exposures were much underexposed and that the

fifth was overexposed; the third and fourth being only slightly under

and overexposed, respectively. Then the mean of these two, that is 24

plus 32 divided by 2, or 28 seconds, will be approximately the correct

exposure. The use of this device will effect a considerable saving.--H.

J. Gray, Lewes, Sussex, England.

Scale on Vaulting Pole Indicates Points of Grip

[Illustration: Indications on the Vaulting Pole Aid the Athlete in

Finding the Proper Grip]

Unnecessary delay in running off the pole-vaulting events at athletic

meets is caused by the repeated testing of vaulters for the proper

height at which to grip the vaulting pole. This was readily overcome

by marking intervals of 1 ft. on the upper end of the vaulting poles.

Vaulters judge the proper height once and thereafter may easily take

the same grip with the aid of the indications on the pole.--A. B.

Wegener, Madison, N. J.

Current of Canal Raises Irrigation Water

[Illustration: The Current of the Canal Causes the Wheel to Revolve,

Carrying the Water to the Trough]

The current of a canal was utilized to raise water for irrigation

purposes, and other uses, by means of the homemade device shown in the

illustration. A large-size buggy wheel was set on an old axle, and

extensions were fixed to eight of the spokes. Paddles, 9 by 18 in.

in size, were secured to the extensions, and uniform-size tin cans

were fixed to the paddles, as shown. The current revolved the wheel,

carrying the loaded buckets upward, and the water was thus poured from

them into a wide trough braced on the platform. A flume led the water

to the irrigation ditches, and pipes were used to conduct some of it to

the ranch house for general purposes. When the water is not desired for

useful purposes the trough is withdrawn and the water drops into the

canal.--Joseph Gray, Heber, Calif.

Protecting an Air Pump against Denting

[Illustration: Denting of Tire Pumps is Prevented by the Use of a Case

Like That Shown]

The brass cylinders of many tire pumps are made of thin metal, and a

slight blow may dent them. Such injuries interfere with the action

of the plunger, making the pump almost useless. A case which will

afford protection to the pump is shown in the sketch. It was made of

two strips of wood cored out on the inner sides to fit the pump and

provided with small hinges and hooks, to lock it into place.

A Feather as an X-Ray Lens

The outline of the bones in the hand may be seen by holding it before

a strong light and looking through a lens made of a piece cut from the

tip of a feather. The sketch shows such a lens, which is mounted in a

small piece of cardboard that may be carried in the pocket, and which

affords diversion wherever exhibited.

[Illustration]

The device is made as follows: Procure a soft white feather from a

fowl, and cut off the tip as indicated in the upper sketch. Cut a

piece of cardboard, about 2 in. wide and 6 in. long. Fold it to form a

folder, 3 in. long, and cut a hole, ¹⁄₄ in. in diameter, through both

parts of it. Glue the tip of the feather between the folder at the

hole, taking care that the fibers lie flat and that no rib is exposed.

Glue the edges of the folder, and the device is ready for use. Hold the

hand, or other object, to be examined about 15 in. from the lens, and

place the latter close to the eye. Looking through the hole toward an

electric, or other strong, light, it will be observed that the bones of

the hand, for example, may be seen clearly. They will be outlined with

a band of varicolored light. A frosted globe is better than one which

exposes a filament.--Leander L. Droesch, Chickasaw, Ohio.

* * * * *

¶A safety-razor blade, fitted into a wooden handle, provides a

convenient tool for ripping seams and cutting cardboard.

Guard Saves Wear on Vest

Bookkeepers and others who work close to a desk nearly all day find

that unusual wear results on the front of the vest, forcing them to

discard their suits sooner than would otherwise be necessary. By

providing a strip of cloth of a color to match the goods of which the

suit is made and buttoning it across the front of the vest from the

lower to the upper button this wear is prevented.--J. A. McGrath,

Hancock, Michigan.

Bilge Water Siphoned Through Water-Jacket Outlet

[Illustration: The Small Pipe Fixed to the Water-Jacket Outlet Siphons

the Bilge Water from the Bottom of the Motorboat]

The sketch shows a simple method of removing the bilge water from a

motorboat automatically while the engine is in operation. A small pipe

is fitted into the outlet from the water jacket, as shown at A, and

extended to the bottom of the boat where the bilge water accumulates.

A sack is fixed over the end of the pipe to prevent particles of dirt

from entering the pipe. The water passing out of the water-jacket

outlet causes a siphoning action in the small pipe, and the bilge water

is drawn up and passes out of the larger outlet. At the left, in dotted

outline, is shown a method of removing the bilge water by permitting

it to be drawn up into the pump which supplies the water to the

water-jacket. This method is sometimes used, but is satisfactory only

when the bilge water can be kept clean, which is difficult.--Francis B.

Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.

A Hinged Window Box

[Illustration: The Flower Box is Arranged to Swing Away from the Window

so That It will Not Be in the Way]

A window box arranged to rest in a hinged bracket on the outside of a

window, as shown in the sketch, has advantages over the usual method

of fixing the box permanently. The box is separate from the supporting

frame and may be removed from it. The frame is attached to the window

casing by means of T-hinges and is strongly supported by a bracket.

When it is desired to clean the window, the device may be swung around

and out of the way. This feature is also desirable when it is raining,

for the flowers in the box may be watered conveniently in this way.--L.

J. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.

Denatured Alcohol to Start Gasoline Stove

Considerable smoke and dirt is caused by the burning of gasoline used

to generate gas in starting a gasoline stove. This may be eliminated

by keeping an oilcan filled with denatured alcohol convenient to the

stove, and filling the starting pan with alcohol instead of gasoline.

The spout of the oilcan is also convenient in pouring only a small

quantity into the pan.--Spencer A. Pease, Chicago, Ill.

* * * * *

¶A strip of adhesive tape, fixed to the lower side of a straightedge

used for cutting glass, will prevent it slipping.

Playing-Card Holder

[Illustration]

While disabled with a broken arm and being anxious to play cards for

diversion, I was at a loss to hold my “hand.” I soon devised the

card holder shown in the sketch, and found no difficulty keeping in

the game. It is made of a strip of wood provided with a groove near

the front edge, into which the cards are inserted.--W. E. Thomae,

Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

Cocoanut-Shell Trays

[Illustration]

Trays for holding matches, or other articles, may be made of cocoanut

shells by cutting them to appropriate sizes and smoothing the surface

to a polish. The tray shown in the sketch was made in this manner, as

were a number of match trays which were fitted with small sheet-metal

dishes. The outside of the shell is first scraped as smooth as

possible, sandpapered, and then oil-polished, producing a beautiful

finish.--John F. Long, Springfield, Mo.

Nail Carrier Made of Cans

[Illustration]

Four ordinary tin cans, fastened to a wooden block as shown in the

illustration, make a serviceable and practical carrier for nails,

staples, or similar materials, used in making repairs on the farm or

in the shop. The tops of the cans are cut out carefully and the edges

smoothed off so as not to injure the hand in removing nails from them.

The tops are cut to the shape shown, as attached to the block and

provided with a handle, making it convenient to carry the contrivance.

If cans are used having covers which may be pried off, the central

block should be extended and the handle nailed directly to it.--Dale R.

Van Horn, North Loup, Neb.

Stopping Rattle in Motorcycle Stand

[Illustration]

Annoyance while traveling over rough roads by the rattling of the rear

stand on a motorcycle may be overcome by taping the part of the brace

which hooks into a catch at the end of the rear mud guard. The sketch

shows a view of the lower portion of the rear wheel with the stand

raised and in place in the catch.

Novel Covered Box for Index Trays

[Illustration]

The box shown in the sketch is novel in that it provides a nonsliding

cover with a minimum of wood for the construction and the use of no

extra space for the lid. Where index, or other boxes must be provided

in considerable numbers, or stored in a limited space, the saving will

be worth while. Index cards, or other material, may fill the box to

its upper level without hindering the availability of the cover. The

small portions attached to the cover are cut from the side and end

pieces.--DeWitt C. Ramsay, Bridgeport, Conn.

* * * * *

¶Small parts may be soldered conveniently by holding them with a clip

made of a piece of clock spring.

A Simple Barometer

A barometer that will indicate weather changes with reasonable accuracy

may be made of two bottles. A milk bottle nearly filled with water is

used as the container and a smaller bottle fitting snugly into the top

is inverted in the mouth of the milk bottle. The mouth of the inverted

bottle should extend about an inch below the surface of the water.

Weather changes will cause the water to rise and fall in the neck of

the inverted bottle.

Removable Posts for Tennis Court

[Illustration: The Post may be Removed for Mowing the Court or When Not

in Use]

It is sometimes desirable to have tennis-court posts arranged to be

easily removed from the lawn or the court when the grass is being

mowed, or during the winter. The method of fixing the posts in the

ground, as shown in the sketch, makes it convenient to remove the posts

and still gives the necessary stability. A square wooden box, tarred to

resist the moisture, is placed in the ground, and the post is fitted

into it. The upper end of the box is level with the surface, and when

the post is removed a wooden block is fitted into the opening. Removal

of the posts permits the mowing of the grass close to them and leaves

the place free from obstructions when the court is not in use.--Edward

R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.

Lightning Switch for Wireless Aerials

Amateur wireless operators often cannot afford to buy a lightning

switch such as is required to ground the aerial when not in use. The

sketch shows such a device, which was made of a marble slab fitted

with copper strips cut from discarded half-tone plates. The base was

smoothed and polished to the size indicated, 4 in. wide and 9 in. long.

The upper edges were beveled off, and holes were drilled near the ends

through which bolts were passed to fasten the small brackets supporting

the crossbar.

[Illustration: Discarded Copper Half-Tone Plates and a Piece of Marble

were Used in Making This Lightning Switch for the Wireless Aerials]

The copper pieces were made as follows: The plates of ¹⁄₁₆-in. copper

were cut into strips, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide. Two were made 8 in. long; four,

3 in. long, and four, ⁷⁄₈ in. long. The 8-in. strips were fastened

together with small bolts and a hole was drilled through one end of the

joined pieces to fit the bolt which forms the pivot for the switch. The

3-in. strips were bent to form a ³⁄₄-in. angle, through which holes

were bored for fastening to the base. The ⁷⁄₈-in. strips were clamped

between the brackets at their lower ends to provide a slot for the

crossbar. The bolts, by which the brackets were clamped together, were

provided with binding nuts to which the wires were connected. A handle

might be fixed to the crossbar, but this is not essential.

Stenciling with Photographic Films

[Illustration: Serviceable Stencils may be Cut from Photographic Films,

and Afford a Practical Means of Making Signs and Other Forms]

Photographic films make excellent material from which to cut stencils

for use in marking show cards, placards, etc., as well as for other

uses to which stencils are put. Pictures, or other designs to be

stenciled, may be pasted to the film and the outline cut, care being

taken that the design is adapted for stenciling. This is important,

since frequently binding strips must be left in the design in order to

make it possible to cut a satisfactory stencil from it. The films are

used with the rough side down, to prevent them from slipping. A variety

of subjects for stencil design may be adapted from pictures clipped

from publications or other sources.--Robert Smith, New Westminster, B.

C., Canada.

A Gas-Stove Lighter

For lighting the gas stove, matches are not only untidy but

inconvenient. In lieu thereof I use a simple affair consisting of a

wood handle with a large nail set in the end, with which it is only

necessary to touch the burner in order to start a flame. There is

nothing to wear out and no parts to renew. Furthermore this gas lighter

uses only one wire--a fact that is apt to strike a person as being

rather unusual on first thought. However, if the reader will connect

one terminal of a 60-watt lamp with the gas main or to the gas stove

and then touch the other terminal successively with each of the two

ends of the live wires it will be found that the lamp will light up

with one terminal but not with the other, for the reason that one side

of the circuit is usually grounded at most electric-light plants as a

precaution against lightning.

All that is necessary to get a spark is to provide a suitable

resistance coil with an iron core, so that the fuse will not be blown

and to secure sufficient inductance to get a hot spark. The writer uses

an ordinary 50-ohm telephone induction coil, in which the primary and

secondary are placed in series by the diagonal connection indicated

in the sketch. Almost any coil or electromagnet of 25-ohm resistance,

or more, connected in a circuit will prove safe and give a hot spark.

Place the coil in some out-of-the-way corner, and run one strand of

the usual flexible cord to the handle, which should be hung at some

convenient point at the right-hand side of the stove. Let the handle

itself be long enough so that there will be no tendency to catch hold

of the metal point. Run the flexible cord through the center and out at

the lower end, into which a wire nail with the head removed is driven.

Solder the wire to the nail, and the lighter is ready.

[Illustration: Single Contact Point for Making a Spark to Light a

Gas-Stove Burner or Tip]

For lighting Bunsen burners, and other fixtures using rubber tubing, a

small wire may be run down the center of the tubing so as to ground the

burner, or else a small surface on the workbench may be covered with

tin and this grounded, so that it is only necessary to set the burner

thereon to get a light.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Arizona.

To Stop Rattling of Windows

Annoyance from the rattling of windows may be overcome by attaching a

small block to the side of the window casing so that it will engage

the sash and hold it firmly. The block should be of ¹⁄₂-in. wood,

about 3 in. long, 1 in. wide, and have one end rounded off. A screw

is fixed through the block near the rounded end and driven into the

window casing at such a point that when the block is turned upward on

its pivot the rounded end will act like a cam and force the sash firmly

against its grooves.

Practical Bracket for Garden Hose

[Illustration]

Care in the storage of a garden hose will pay the owner in the longer

life of it, and the homemade bracket shown in the sketch suggests a

convenient method of caring for the hose. A portion of a barrel was

sawed off at one of the hoops, and after reinforcing it by nailing the

hoops and inserting shelves, it was nailed to the wall. The hose may be

coiled over it in shape to be easily carried to the lawn or garden, for

use. The shelves provide space for an oilcan for the lawn mower, and

other accessories.

Making Filing Envelopes Quickly

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 2

FIG. 4

FIG. 3

Folders Like That in Figure 1 may be Glued to Form Envelopes, Figure

2, or Cut Down to the Size Shown in Figure 3, for Use in Combination,

Figure 4]

Folders in which large cards, calendars, posters, etc., are commonly

mailed may be utilized to make convenient filing cases. Envelopes of

the type shown in the sketch, with leatherboard and cord fasteners for

holding the flaps together, may be cut to a uniform size or used in any

smaller size desired, and, by gluing the flaps A and B, will provide

serviceable containers. Small tools or other objects likely to injure

a single-thickness folder, or drop out of it, may be stored in double

envelopes made in this way.

Yardstick on Tool Rack

[Illustration: The Brass Plug and Angle Are Convenient Additions to the

Yardstick, Which Forms the Front of the Tool Rack]

I have derived considerable satisfaction from the use of a yardstick

fitted above my workbench. A plug of brass, having a center-punch mark,

was inserted at the zero point on the yardstick. This is convenient

in setting dividers and other instruments. Below the plug was fixed a

small brass angle, set so that its inner face was at the zero point.

This is useful in measuring pieces from a finished end. If the end of

the yardstick is at the zero point it is necessary to attach a small

extension to take the brass plug.--V. A. Rettich, Hollis, N. Y.

Bicycle Runner for Winter Use

[Illustration: The Mudguard is Fastened to the Rim of the Wheel and

Acts as a Runner over Ice and Snow]

A bicycle may be used with satisfactory results in winter by arranging

a runner under the front wheel, which is lashed to the fork as

indicated in the sketch. The mudguard is used as a runner by releasing

it and dropping it to the position shown. It is then tied securely to

the rim of the wheel and the wheel is tied at the top to the fork.

This idea may be adapted by providing a special runner of sheet metal,

making it unnecessary to wear the mudguard.--C. H. McCaslin, Portland,

Ore.

Homemade Snowshoe Toe Clips

[Illustration: The Uppers of an Old Pair of Shoes were Used to Make a

Set of Toe Clips for Snowshoes]

The uppers from a pair of worn-out shoes may be made into a serviceable

set of toe clips for snowshoes by cutting them off, as shown in the

sketch, and fitting them to the lacing of the snowshoes. The clip is

fastened in place by passing the tying strap through slots in the

former, under the lacing of the snowshoe, and then around the ankle in

the usual manner of fastening.--Richard F. Lufkin, Dorchester, Mass.

Mounting Tracing-Cloth Drawings on Muslin

Tracings mounted on muslin will give long wear and are more

satisfactory in handling than the unmounted drawings. The method of

mounting them is as follows: Stretch a piece of starched muslin,

slightly larger than the drawing, on a flat, smooth board, fastening

it with tacks. Coat the back of the tracing with a good varnish, and

place it, face down, on a flat surface so that it may partly dry and

become tacky, which usually takes two hours. Place the tracing upon

the stretched muslin, varnished side down, and place a smooth sheet of

wrapping paper over it. Using a moderately warm flatiron, and beginning

at the center of the tracing, iron toward the edges, applying moderate

pressure. To remove the tracing from the cloth, it is necessary to

warm the cloth with the iron and strip the tracing and cloth apart

gradually.--John W. Grantland, Cincinnati, Ohio.

Sandpapering Square Edges on Small Machine Bases

The woodwork of small electrical or experimental machines and devices

often detracts from the workmanship because proper care is not taken

in finishing the edges. To smooth off the ends of a small baseboard

squarely, proceed as follows: Square up a piece of 2 by 4-in. stock,

1 ft. long; place a flat sheet of sandpaper on the bench and set the

1-ft. block on top of it, holding it in place with the left hand. Hold

the piece to be squared up firmly against the block and rub it on

the sandpaper. A square edge of smooth finish will result. The edges

should, of course, be planed as smoothly as possible before sanding in

this way.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

Enlarged Lantern Pictures as Guides for Scenic Painting

[Illustration: Scenery for an Amateur Theatrical Performance was Made

by Painting Outlines Projected from a Lantern]

Scenery for a home-talent theatrical performance was required, and

since the services of an expert in that line were not available, an

interesting method of obtaining satisfactory sketches for the figures

and other objects in the background was devised. Colored lantern slides

of scenes suitable for the purpose were selected and projected upon

the canvas to be painted, as shown in the illustration. The outlines

were drawn around the projected figures, making them as accurate as the

original, and far better than would have been possible otherwise by an

amateur painter. The colors were applied following the original model,

with satisfactory results. By the use of various portions of slides,

it was possible to place figures and outdoor effects on the background

which was obtained from the first slide used. A factor which must be

considered in using this method is that the picture on the canvas will

be reversed as to right and left positions compared with the original,

if a direct-reflection projector of the type used with post cards is

employed.--Thomas R. Milligan, Fort Worth, Texas.

Three-Caster Truck for Moving Crates and Furniture

[Illustration]

A convenient truck for handling heavy objects, especially in the home

where commercial devices for this purpose are not available, is shown

in the illustration. It consists of a frame built up of three 1¹⁄₄ by

2 by 14-in. strips, fixed to a disk, ⁷⁄₈ by 12 in. in size. Revolving

casters are mounted under the ends of the arms, giving great freedom

of movement in transporting loads. The three-caster arrangement is

better than the use of four casters, because it accommodates itself to

irregularities in the floor.--Armydas E. Sturdivant, Muncie, Ind.

* * * * *

¶The burner of an acetylene bicycle lamp, fitted to an ordinary gas

jet, will produce a very hot flame.

Inserting or Correcting on Typewritten Bound Sheets

It is frequently necessary that typewritten insertions or corrections

be made in papers which have been typed and bound, usually by rivets

along the top edge. It is difficult to remove the rivets and replace

them satisfactorily. To make such insertions, feed a blank sheet of

paper into the typewriter until its feeding edge is even with the upper

edge of the guide fingers. Then insert the bottom edge of the sheet on

which the correction is to be made, underneath the sheet already in the

machine; reverse-feed the sheet to be corrected into the typewriter.

Corrections may then be made in the usual manner.--A. J. Cook,

Pittsburgh, Pa.

Tire Pump Made of Gas Piping

A tire pump actuated by the explosions in the cylinder of an automobile

engine, and made of materials easily obtainable, is shown in detail in

the illustration. A section of iron pipe of a diameter to fit one of

the ports, and about 4 in. long, as shown in Fig. 2, is provided with

a reducer, a tee, and two caps. The inside of the pipe is turned up

true in a lathe and fitted with a piston, the head for which is shown

in Fig. 1. The head is built up of a wooden drum, washers, and leather

packing disks. The washers should be slightly smaller in diameter than

the chamber, and the leather disks make it air-tight.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 2

FIG. 3