Automobile Tires may be Inflated Quickly by the Use of This Homemade

Pump]

The tee is provided with two valves, as shown in the detail sectional

view, Fig. 3, the upper ball valve retaining the pressure in the pipe

line, and the other valve admitting air above the piston. The ball

valve has a seat of lead, and a ribbed fitting is fixed to the pipe cap

above it, to provide a fastening for the hose. The cap of the other

valve is fitted with a spring, adjustable on a threaded pin.

A light spring fixed to the upper side of the piston, as shown in Fig.

2, forces the piston back to its lower position after the force of the

explosion in the cylinder has acted upon it. The cylinder of the pump

should be oiled, and a reinforced rubber hose should be used to conduct

the air under pressure to the tire.

The operation is simple: The initial stroke of the engine cylinder

draws the piston down, bringing in a charge of air from the valve ports

at the side of the tee; the following compression and explosion strokes

drive it back, forcing the air out of the ball valve, as the other

valve closes on the upstroke of the piston. A large tire may be pumped

up with this device in from five to ten minutes.

Aid in Ruling Uniform Cards or Sheets

When a number of cards or sheets are to be ruled with either horizontal

or vertical divisions, the following method will be found a timesaver:

Rule one of the cards as a sample. Place it on the drawing board with

its lower edge set against two thumb tacks driven part way in. Rule

extensions of the lines on the card to a sheet of paper fastened to the

board under the card. Set a third thumb tack at the right edge of the

card as a guide. By placing the cards to be ruled against the three

thumb tacks in the position of the original card, the rulings may be

made quickly with the marks on the paper backing as guides.--W. P.

Shaw, Stratford, Can.

Tinned Staples for Bell-Circuit Wiring

[Illustration: The Strip is Cut into Squares Which are Folded and

Driven into the Support, Binding the Wire]

Inexpensive and practical staples for binding wires used in bell

circuits, or for similar purposes, may be made from a strip of tinned

sheet metal, about ¹⁄₂ in. wide. The strip is cut on the sides, as

indicated in the sketch, and the squares are broken off as needed. They

may be bent quickly to the shape shown, and are used by placing them

over the wire and driving the points into the wall or other support. If

properly made, they will not injure the covering of the wire and are

more satisfactory than wire staples.

Asbestos Table Mats Reinforced with Wire Netting

Ordinarily heavy pieces of sheet asbestos are used for the mats placed

under hot dishes on the dining table. These are easily broken if bent,

and a simple method of overcoming this breakage is to make mats as

follows: Cut two pieces of sheet asbestos, each about one-half the

thickness of that usually used, one having about ³⁄₄ in. around the

edge which may be used as a binder in pasting the sheets together. Cut

notches into this edge, at intervals of about 2 in., and insert a disk

of wire window screening between the pieces of asbestos. Turn the edges

of the larger piece over and paste in place.

Device for Corrugating Strips

[Illustration]

Having a sheet-metal cog rail to make for the adjusting mechanism of

an enlarging screen, I built a cog-forming device as shown in the

sketch. A block of wood served as the case and two levers with hinges

were fixed to one end of it. Two pieces of hardwood were grooved at

their ends as shown in the smaller sketch, to fit over three tenpenny

nails, A, held in place on the block by staples. Four small nails,

B, were set into the block, as shown, to act as guides for the strip

of metal, which was fed between the forming blocks and the nails on

the case. By pressing down on the hinge levers, the strip was formed

into corrugations or teeth. In order to make the teeth uniform it was

necessary to guide the forming pieces by having one of the cogs fit

over the first nail. The strip thus formed was fixed to a wooden piece

and served as a cog rail.--R. E. Henderson, Walla Walla, Washington.

Birch-Bark Leggings Made in the Woods

[Illustration]

An excellent pair of leggings for use in brush and forest land can

be made in a few minutes from birch bark cut in the woods. Select a

suitable tree, about 6 or 8 in. in diameter, and cut into the heavy

bark to obtain two rolls around the circumference of the tree, taking

care not to cut deep enough to injure it. Fit these sections around the

legs leaving 6-in. portions overlapping. Trim the bark to the proper

shape and soak it in water to soften the grain. Place the bark close to

the fire until it curls. The leggings are then ready for use.

Stretcher for Drying Small Fur Hides

[Illustration]

Small hides should be dried over a stretcher to give the best results,

and the device shown in the sketch will be found useful for this

purpose. It is made of two strips of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, hinged at the

pointed end. Small holes are drilled into the upper surface at the

other ends and adjustment is made by means of a wire bent at the ends

and inserted in the holes.--Elmer Tetzlaff, East DePere, Wis.

* * * * *

¶Wire mesh is useful for drawer bottoms in tool cases where dirt is

likely to accumulate.

Reel for Use with Seed-Planting Guide String

[Illustration: This Reel Aids in Setting Out Plants in Rows]

Many gardeners derive as much pleasure from the orderly arrangement

of the plants in their “farms” as from any other feature of this home

diversion, and I am one of them. In order to facilitate the planting I

made a reel like that shown in the sketch. The frame is of wood, and

the reel is made of a piece of broomstick to which two small tins, or

box covers, are nailed. A wire handle made of a long nail is fitted

to one end, and a shoulder hook is used as a stop for the handle when

it is desired to check the line. A screw eye driven into the back of

the frame holds it at various heights on the stake. This device is far

superior to the common use of two stakes for the planting cord.--James

M. Kane, Doylestown, Pennsylvania.

Kinks on the Care of Umbrellas

Deriving long use from an umbrella depends in part on proper selection,

care of the cloth and frame, and precautions against loss or theft. A

silk cover is desirable to shed rain, and a cotton one for a sunshade.

The hot sun dries out the silk and heats the metal ribs under it,

quickly destroying it. If silk is used for sun protection, wet the

cover occasionally. Always set an umbrella to dry, handle down if there

is not space to dry it open.

A broad ribbon loop on the handle of a woman’s umbrella permits

carrying it on the wrist and prevents forgetting it. An umbrella with a

removable handle can be folded into a suitcase, and putting the handle

in the pocket when leaving the umbrella in any public place makes it

less liable to theft. An umbrella should bear the name and address of

the owner.

A Bell-Ringing Mail Box

[Illustration]

The annoyance of watching for the arrival of the mailman was overcome

by the fitting of an electrical alarm to the mail box, as shown in the

sketch. A strip of metal, A, was pivoted in the box and weighted on one

end. A bell, B, was wired to dry cells in the box below the container

for the mail. When the mail is dropped in the box the end A is forced

down, forming an electrical contact and completing the circuit from

the cells C through the wire D and back through the wire E. When the

mail is removed the weight raises the metal strip.--James E. Noble,

Portsmouth, Canada.

A Simple Polarity Indicator

An ordinary compass, fitted flush in a wooden frame as shown in the

sketch forms the basis for the polarity indicator described. The N, or

north, and S, or south, points of the compass should run lengthwise

with the frame with the former on the end farthest from the binding

posts, C and D. Five turns of No. 18 gauge, or any similar wire are

wound lengthwise around the frame and over the compass. The ends of the

wires terminate at the two binding posts. Begin at C and wind toward

the compass, binding the wire at D.

[Illustration]

If the two ends of a wire are free, and it is desired to know whether

there is any current present, and if so, its polarity, fasten one wire

to the post C and the other to D. Before connecting the wires, hold the

compass and frame in such a way that the needle is over the N point on

the compass dial. If, after the wires are connected, the needle moves,

there is a current flowing. If the needle is deflected toward the east,

the negative wire is on C; if it is deflected toward the west, the

positive wire is on C.

When it is desired to ascertain the polarity of a wire, which is

covered by a floor, ceiling, or molding, hold the compass as explained,

and either directly above or below the wire. Then turn on the current.

If the instrument is above the wire, the wire extending parallel with

it north and south, and the needle is deflected toward the west, the

current is flowing from the north to the south end of the wire. If the

wire runs east and west and the needle is deflected to the west, the

current is running from west to east.

If the wire runs on a diagonal between the directions mentioned, and

the needle is deflected toward the west, he current is flowing from

the quadrant between N and W on the compass dial toward the quadrant

between S and E. If the instrument is held over the wire and the

needle is deflected toward E, the polarity is the opposite to that

last indicated. Should the instrument be held below the wire, if the

needle goes toward W, it is equivalent to going toward E when above the

wire.--H. Sterling Parker, Brooklyn, New York.

* * * * *

¶If the white of an egg is used to seal an envelope which has no

mucilage on the flap, it cannot be opened by steaming it.

Flash Light Used as a Bedroom Night Light

[Illustration]

To save groping about in the dark for my flash light when suddenly

awakened in the night, I devised the arrangement shown in the sketch

and by which a “flash” is used as a wall night light, without lessening

its common uses. The holder B and the board A are of wood, and into

the box is fitted a metal clip, C, to hold the light. A round hole

of proper size is cut through the top of the box and the light set

through it so that the bottom end rests in the clip, the tin ferrule

pressing against it firmly. A light spring, D, makes contact with the

upper terminal of the push switch without closing it. The apparatus is

fastened to the wall, and insulated wires, soldered, one to the clip

C, and the other to the spring D, are connected to a switch placed

in a convenient position. This switch replaces that on the light.

The ceiling serves to reflect and distribute the light rays.--B. L.

Dobbins, Harwich, Mass.

Pie-Plate Gas Heater

[Illustration]

A satisfactory gas heater to take the chill out of the air in a small

room by fitting a pie plate over a gas burner was made by me, as

shown in the sketch. The wires which formerly held the glass shade

were fitted into holes punched in the rim of the plate. It could thus

be removed quickly when not needed and the glass shade put back in

place.--Morris Tinsky, Chicago, Illinois.

A Folding Table with Split-Bamboo Tray for Top

[Illustration]

A folding table frame, designed as a support for a circular

split-bamboo tray, is shown in the photographs reproduced and detailed

in the working drawing. It is a serviceable and inexpensive piece of

furniture, and can be constructed readily by the home mechanic. As the

trays vary in size, the frame must be made to correspond, those from 24

to 28 in. in diameter being satisfactory. The tray may be made by the

ambitious craftsman or purchased at stores dealing in Oriental goods. A

wooden top may, of course, be substituted. The frame is made preferably

of soft wood. The following finished pieces are required for a 24-in.

tray: 4 legs, ⁷⁄₈ by 3 by 30 in.; 4 crosspieces, 1 by 2 by 25 in.

Mortise the legs to the ends of the crosspieces, one set of mortises

being ⁷⁄₈ in. below the other. Assemble the parts and fasten the joints

with glue and 2-in. flat-head screws, countersunk.

[Illustration: This Tray Table Is Readily Portable, and Useful in the

House and on the Porch or Lawn]

Adjust the crosspieces of each set so that their centers match, and

fasten them in this position with screws, from the under side. The two

parts of the frame revolve on them when the table is “knocked down.”

On the ends of the lower crosspieces of each set, fasten blocks to

level the support for the tray. Finish the frame to harmonize with the

furniture of the room. Conceal the screw heads under bands of hammered

or oxidized copper, fastened with copper or brass pins. A second tray

may be placed on the lower crosspieces.--F. E. Tuck, Nevada City, Calif.

Small Desk Lamp Supported by Paper Weight

Those who wish a small desk light that may be pushed back out of the

way in the daytime, will find the accompanying sketch of interest. When

in use on a roll-top desk, the lamp is placed on top near the edge,

so that the bulb overhangs. A 25-watt lamp will light the bed of the

desk, and the small metal shade is so placed that no part of the bulb

is visible to the eye of the worker. By providing a suitable base, the

lamp may be adapted to other uses. A stock paper weight, about 2 in. in

diameter and covered with green felt, was used as a base. An ordinary

drop-cord socket is provided, and to one side of the top cap a strip of

brass, ¹⁄₁₆ by ¹⁄₂ in., is soldered. A hole is drilled near the end of

this strip so that the screw which holds the knob will also hold the

socket. Connect the flexible cord in the usual manner.

[Illustration]

The shade is made of sheet metal, bent in the form of a cone, having

the front shorter than the opposite edge. Make a sketch of the bulb,

and determine the lengths of the two sides A and B, and then draw two

concentric circles of corresponding radii on paper, as indicated in the

small diagram. The proper curve for the shade will then lie between

these two circles. Cut a paper pattern, and form it into a cone. After

the proper shape is determined, mark it on the metal, cut it to shape,

and solder it. A small spring clip, C, engages the tip of the bulb; the

back of the shade is held by a piece of spring wire, D. It is easy to

spring the shade off in replacing the bulb. The outside of the shade

should be enameled an olive-green.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Arizona.

Device Frightens Flies at Screen Door

[Illustration: The Scalloped Roller is Revolved Rapidly When the Door

is Opened, Frightening Flies]

An effective means of frightening flies away from a screen door may be

made from a spring curtain rod and cotton duck. Scallops of 8-oz. duck,

6 in. long, are fastened to the pole, on opposite sides, as shown. The

ratchet on the end of the pole is arranged so as not to catch. A small

cord is wound around the pole and fastened to the screen door. The rod

supports are fixed near the top of the door frame.--Josef H. Noyes,

Paris, Tex.

Porch Swing Made from Automobile Seat

[Illustration: The Seat Discarded from a Rebuilt Car was Put to Good

Use]

When an obsolete type of automobile was converted into a truck for

marketing purposes, a leather-upholstered seat, discarded, was utilized

as an attractive and comfortable porch swing. Hooks were secured to the

front corners of the seat and to the upper edge of the back, for the

chains attached to suitable supports.--George L. Ayers, Washington, D.

C.

Linoleum Panels for a Homemade Chest

A strong packing box was converted into a useful and not unsightly

chest by covering it with panels of linoleum left over from a job of

covering a floor. Strips, ¹⁄₂ by 2 in. wide, were nailed around the

corners of the box to form a panel on the top, sides, and ends. The

wood and the linoleum were shellacked, and made a good appearance.

* * * * *

¶The lower corner of an envelope may be used as a small funnel.

Camera for Bird Photography

[Illustration: Bird Images Large Enough to Show Identification Markings

are Obtained with This Camera]

A reasonably large image must be obtained in photographing bird life,

or the details of plumage and identification are lost, reducing the

value of the pictures. The “gun camera” shown in the photograph was

devised for this purpose, and with it exposures may be made more

quickly than with the telephoto type of camera, a feature of great

value in this class of photography. The device consists of an ordinary

reflecting-type camera, mounted on a carriage for ready portability and

quick adjustment. The bellows is supplemented with a tube, permitting

the use of lenses of upward of 30-in. extreme focus. This gives a

larger image without loss in speed. A ¹⁄₄-in. image of a bird was

obtained with a 7¹⁄₂-in. extreme-focus lens, as against a 2-in. image

with one of 30-in. focus, from the same position. The lens is set near

the rear end of the tube, giving a deep hood for shading the sunlight.

Lenses of an old type, known as “Long Toms,” were used. They are

inexpensive compared with newer types with iris diaphragms, and give

good results even at ¹⁄₁,₀₀₀ exposures.--Arthur Farland, New Orleans,

La.

Electric Fan an Aid to Heating Room

The electric fan is useful not only for cooling the air in summer,

but also for distributing the warm air to advantage in the winter.

An efficient way of warming a room fairly uniformly is to place an

electric fan near a radiator, so that its breeze passes through the

heating coils, or near another source of heat. The heat is circulated

around the room, instead of being kept in a limited area.--Peter J. M.

Clute, Schenectady, N. Y.

Cat-and-Bells Scarecrow

[Illustration]

A scarecrow resembling a living animal is often more effective than

other devices, and the cat-and-bells arrangement shown in the sketch

was found especially so. The hide of a cat was stretched over a hollow

frame and suspended by a cord from a large weather vane. Several bells

were attached to the cord, and when the vane shifts in the wind, the

movement of the hide and the rattling of the bells combine to frighten

the birds.--F. H. Sweet, Waynesboro, Va.

* * * * *

¶A coating of five parts of coal tar, one part gasoline, and one part

japan drier will make canvas nearly water-tight.

A Small Hydraulic Turbine

BY FRANK D. BELL

Considerable power and speed can be developed under ordinary

water-supply pressure by the turbine, or water motor, shown in the

sketch and detailed in the working drawings. The parts are of simple

construction, and the machine may be assembled or taken down easily.

It is useful for either belt or direct connection to electrical

generators, small machines, etc., the direct connection being

preferable for a generator. The wheel is built up of sheet metal and

provided with curved buckets set in the saw-tooth edge. The water is

admitted through an opening in the lower part of the housing and passes

out at the opposite end into a suitable drain pipe. The housing is made

of two sections, the main casting and a cover plate. Bearings for the

shaft are cast into the housing, which is reinforced on the back by

ribs radiating from the center.

[Illustration: View of the Water Turbine with the Cover Plate Removed,

Showing Inlet and Drain]

Wooden patterns are made for the housing, the main casting and the

cover plate being cast separately. The pattern for the cover plate

should provide for the bearing lug, as shown in the sectional detail,

and for the angle forming a support at the bottom. Special attention

should be given to allowance for proper draft in making the pattern

for the main casting; that is, the edges of the reinforcing ribs, and

the sides of the shell should be tapered slightly to make removal from

the sand convenient. The advice of a patternmaker will be helpful to

one inexperienced in this work, although many machine metalworkers are

familiar with the process.

[Illustration: Details of a Water Turbine That will Give Considerable

Power and Speed for Driving a Generator or Small Machine]

The finishing and machining of the parts and their assembling should

be undertaken as follows: Clean the castings and file off rough parts.

Smooth the cover plate and the shell to a close fit, and drill and

tap the fastening holes for 8-32 machine screws. Drill ¹⁄₄-in. holes

for the bearings, through the bearing arm and ¹⁄₄ in. into the lug on

the cover plate. Drill and tap the two grease-cup holes for ¹⁄₈-in.

pipe thread, Drill the nozzle hole ¹⁄₄ in., and drill and tap it for a

¹⁄₂-in. pipe nipple.

Lay out the wheel of ¹⁄₁₆-in. brass, making 24 notches in its edge.

Fasten the wheel to the ¹⁄₄-in. shaft with a flanged coupling, fixing

it with a setscrew. Bolt the flange to the wheel with 8-32 steel bolts.

Make the buckets of ¹⁄₃₂-in. sheet brass, curved as detailed, and round

off the edges. Solder them into place, using plenty of solder and

making certain that the curve is set properly. Place drops of solder

on the flange nuts to secure them. Place the ends of the shaft on two

knife-edges, and balance the wheel by adding drops of solder to the

lighter side. This is very important, as undue vibration from lack of

balance will wear the bearings quickly.

Assemble the machine, using shellac between the cover plate and shell.

Make connection to the water supply with a ¹⁄₂-in. pipe. Bolt the

machine down, and do not let it run at full speed without load.

Automatic Lock Box for Milk Bottles

[Illustration]

A mousetrap spring, provided with a suitable catch, was fitted into a

box for milk bottles, and served to protect the milk bottle against

theft by prowlers. The box was made large enough to hold several

bottles, the empty ones in one portion and the filled bottles in

another. The bottle is dropped through an opening in the locked end

of the box and the spring forces up the catch. While this device may

be tampered with, it guards effectively against the theft of bottles

of milk, since most of those stolen are taken because they are easily

accessible.--L. F. Head, Seattle, Wash.

* * * * *

¶The oxyacetylene flame may be used in cutting or welding steel

cables, but such welds will not sustain the original safe load of the

cable.

Uses for an Old Toothbrush

A discarded toothbrush, properly cleaned so as not to be insanitary,

may be used in one or possibly more of the following ways: to raise

the nap of white buckskin shoes, after polishing them; in reaching

corners with shoe polish, or in cleaning out eyelets and corners;

cleaning typewriter keys with benzine; polishing small parts of

metalwork.--Joseph A. Cunningham, Philadelphia, Pa.

A Locking Sheath for Hunter’s Knife

[Illustration]

Having made a hunting knife and desiring a suitable sheath for it, I

devised that shown in the sketch, which has the special feature that

the guard on the knife handle locks in slots cut through the sheath.

Two pieces of leather were used, one for the back section and the

other for the shorter front piece. The sewing at the edges of the

two sections extends from the level of the slots around the lower

end of the sheath. Two slots were cut vertically through the upper

portion of the sheath, which is fastened to the belt of the wearer, as

indicated.--George H. Flint, Harrison, Me.

Discarded Buggy Springs for Diving Board

Old leaf springs obtained from a buggy were used to give the necessary

spring to a diving board. One of the springs was set at each side of

the board about 2¹⁄₂ ft. from the fixed end, and they were joined by

a cross support of 2 by 4-in. wood, on which the spring board rested.

Straps to check the strain on the springs from the rebound were

provided.

Water Wheel Turns Spit over Campfire

When a camp fire is placed near a stream, water power may be utilized

to turn the spit in roasting meat over the fire. The rod, on which the

roast is suspended, should be extended, and supported at one end, over

the water. A small paddle wheel may then be rigged up easily on the rod.

A Detachable Chair Arm

[Illustration: This Folding and Detachable Chair Arm Is Useful in the

Home]

The children in the home as well as others can make good use of a chair

arm which may be attached quickly to an ordinary chair. The wide arm is

clamped to the back of the chair by means of a strip of metal fitted

with a thumbscrew, and the upright is fixed to the arm by a hinge,

making it convenient to store the device. The lower end of the upright

is fitted with a metal angle which fits on the corner of the chair.--J.

F. Long, Springfield, Mo.

Comic Chest Expander for Play or Stage Use

[Illustration: The Performer’s Chest “Swells with Pride” When He Draws

on the String by Shifting His Position]

A device used in an amateur vaudeville sketch with good effect, and

which is interesting for play purposes, was made of a ¹⁄₃₂ by 9 by

14-in. piece of sheet spring brass, rigged as shown. In the center,

near the upper edge, a small pulley was soldered, and at the center

of the bottom edge a small hole was drilled. In it was fastened one

end of a 4-ft. string which ran up through the pulley. The other end

was fastened to a strap to fit around the leg just above the knee.

At the two upper corners of the brass sheet two slots were cut to

accommodate similar straps, as fastenings. When the wearer stands in a

normal position the chest is as usual, but by straightening the body

and slightly moving the strapped leg back, the brass sheet is bowed

outward, giving the appearance indicated.--Arthur L. Kaser, South Bend,

Ind.

* * * * *

¶Square cardboard disks fastened to the ends of a spool with thumb

tacks will prevent it from rolling.

Cane Made of Tubing Contains Cigars

[Illustration]

As a novelty in canes, a steel tube was provided with a suitable handle

and used as a container for cigars and matches. The tube was fitted

with a metal cap at its junction with the handle and the cigars are

inserted or removed at this point. The end of the handle was bored out

and also provided with a cover, as a match safe. The tube was enameled

and varnished to resemble wood.--James E. Noble, Toronto, Canada.

Key Ring Used as a Cover Fastener

[Illustration]

The usual box-cover fastener in the form of a staple and hasp can be

fastened quite securely, and much better than with the use of a wood

pin, by applying a key ring to the staple. This is to take the place

temporarily in case the lock is lost or discarded.--James M. Kane,

Doylestown, Pa.

Golf Tee Made of a Shotgun Shell

[Illustration]

Instead of making golf tees in the usual manner I used the brass end

of a shotgun shell, weighted with a small iron ball attached to a

string. The device was made as an experiment and proved so useful

and convenient to carry that I continued to use it.--Edward Beasley,

Texarkana, Ark.

Patching Canvas Bottom of a Canoe

A patch of silk, properly applied makes a good repair for a hole worn

through the canvas bottom of a canoe. Loosen the canvas for about 2

in. around the hole and apply thick shellac. Insert a piece of silk in

the hole to lap under the edges of the canvas. Permit the shellac to

dry slightly and smooth down the patch. Protect the joint further with

white lead, smoothing over the patch and painting it when dry.

Handy Tray for Pencils and Penholders

[Illustration]

A piece of light cardboard, or sheet metal, may be folded into a neat

and useful holder for pens, pencils, etc., on the desk or drafting

table. In the latter case a piece of stiff drawing paper folded into

V-grooves and tacked to the board, is convenient. For use on a finished

surface the folded piece should be pasted on cardboard or otherwise

fastened down.--William Robert, Springfield, Mass.

Removing Sag from Couch Spring

[Illustration]

A couch spring of the type shown in the sketch sagged considerably,

making it ineffective. The sag was taken up by bending the sections

of wire with a monkey wrench, so that the entire spring was stiffened

almost as satisfactorily as when new. Care must be taken that the wires

are bent uniformly so that the strain is evenly distributed.

* * * * *

¶An eggshell may be balanced on the edge of a knife if the egg is

“blown,” and then partly filled with sand.

An Effective Combination Lock Easily Made

BY E. F. STRONG

The combination lock described has been used for years on lockers and

letter boxes in a large public building. The details of a lock with

three disks are given, and in Fig. 4 the use of two disks is suggested.

The lock is made as follows: From a piece of ³⁄₁₆ or ¹⁄₄-in. hard wood,

saw out three disks, A, Fig. 1, from 1 to 4 in. in diameter, according

to the size of lock desired. For one with 2-in. disks, as shown, cut

slots, B, ¹⁄₂ in. wide and deep, in the edge of the disks. For axles

use ³⁄₈ by 2-in. hardwood dowels, C, with a six-penny headless wire

nail in one end, leaving about ¹⁄₄ in. of it exposed.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

This Wooden Combination Lock Gives Good Service and is Easily Made]

The case of the lock is shown in Fig. 1. It is made large enough to

mount the disks, as shown. Around the edges of the inside surface of

the lid fasten strips a trifle thicker than the disks. Place the disks

in the positions shown, drilling small holes in the baseboard for the

nail axles. The bolts, D, and the piece, E, are made of hard wood,

fastened with a lap joint. On each side of the bar, D, fasten cleats,

F, to hold it in position. The handle, H, moves in a slot in the lid,

and is fixed to the bar, E.

The door, or lid, on which the lock is to be used, is provided with

openings, J, as shown in Fig. 3. The axles C, project through openings,

as bearings. When the windows J, through which the combinations are

read, are made, place the ends of the bolts in the slots of the disks

and screw the lock in position. Mark on each disk the point exactly

in the center of the window, enabling one to work the combination

temporarily. To lock the device, push the handle to the left and turn

the axles. To unlock it, turn the axles until the pencil marks appear

in the middle of the windows, and throw the bolts.

Next make paper dials, K, of a diameter as shown in Fig. 2. Divide the

circumference into from 50 to 100 equal parts, according to the size

of the dial, and draw radii, as shown. Number at least every fifth

point. To the face of each disk, A, with small thumb tacks, fasten one

of the dials, placing the combination numbers selected exactly over

the pencil marks made in setting the temporary combination. Verify the

combination before locking it. Unless the slots in the disks are a

little wider than the ends of the bolts, the combination must be very

closely adjusted. An aid in setting the combination is a line on the

glass or a point of black paper, as shown in Fig. 2. The combination

may be changed by setting the dials in new positions. The large

number of combinations possible makes it very difficult to obtain the

combination. For most purposes, two disks are sufficient in a lock of

this kind.

* * * * *

¶A convenient method of supporting a garden-hose nozzle is to tie a

loose knot in the end of the hose, arranging the nozzle to spray as

desired.

A Simple Metal Bird Basin

[Illustration]

A bird basin can be made an attractive feature of a home garden, and

that shown in the illustration was made easily of a metal basin and a

section of iron pipe. The pipe was sunk in the ground to a depth of 30

in. and loose rock placed around the end of it. A shallow pan, hammered

out of a flat piece of sheet metal and provided with a cork stopper,

was fixed to the upper end of the pipe. Holes were made in the edge

of the pan and strings to support morning-glories were attached from

them to a hoop, set in the ground around the pipe. When it is desired

to change the water in the pan it is drained off by releasing the

cork.--Mrs. F. D. Reynolds, Stevens Point, Wis.

Catch-All Screen inside Hot-Air Register

[Illustration]

In order to recover small articles dropped through the floor-register

grating of a hot-air heating system without the necessity of removing

a section of the pipe, mesh gratings like that shown were fitted into

place. Number six gauge wire mesh was used in pieces just large enough

to fit into the metal box below the register. Access to the screen may

be had by removing the grating--F. M. Ball, St. Louis. Mo.

Practical Uses for Old Button Clasps

Leather and metal-button clasps from suspenders are useful in repairing

heavy gloves, large leather cases, and other articles on which the

clasps have been lost or worn out. They may be sewed or riveted into

place. Attached to straps, they are useful means of making a fastening,

and may be applied to leggings, and other parts of outing clothes.

Bark-Covered Porch Light and Plant Shelf

[Illustration]

A combination flowerpot holder and reading lamp was made from two

pieces of wood, bark, and a lamp socket, and proved to be a good shaded

reading light. With a plant in the flowerpot, the fixture was made

quite attractive by day. Maple bark, well dried out, was used. A piece

of board, ³⁄₄ in. thick, was cut to fit the curve of the bark, and

fastened to it. The former was then nailed to another board, ¹⁄₂ by 5

by 14 in., which formed the support for the fixture. A lamp socket was

attached and a suitable current source provided.

Removable Headrest for Chair

A convenient attachment for the back of a chair is an extension padded

to form a comfortable headrest. This may be made by fixing a padded

piece of wood, 6 in. wide and 20 in. long, to the chair back by means

of suitable wooden braces, notched to fit the top of the chair.

Rigging Economizes Space in Closet

[Illustration: This Simple Rigging Gave Accommodation for a Large

Quantity of Clothing in a Small Closet]

It was necessary to store a considerable quantity of clothing in a

small clothes closet, and the rigging detailed in the illustration

was devised, and provided unusual accommodations. Wooden rods, 1¹⁄₂

in. in diameter, were set across the closet at each side of the door

and supported on notched blocks, as shown in the detail at the left.

The clothes used frequently were supported on these rods by means

of hangers. For clothes out of season, or used only occasionally. a

special rigging was arranged in the space above the door. A 1¹⁄₂-in.

rod was fitted between the walls to slide in a groove at its ends.

Strips nailed to the wall formed the groove. Cords, attached to the

rod, as shown, and carried to the ceiling, where pulleys were fixed,

made it convenient to raise or lower the rod. A sheet was spread over

the clothes to protect them.--A. K. Hay, Ottawa, Canada.

Scoop Made of Box End

A scoop that is serviceable for handling various kinds of lighter

bulk material may be made by cutting the end from a cardboard box of

suitable size and trimming it into shape. A handle may be provided by

making a loop of cloth, or flexible cardboard, and fastening it with a

paper fastener.

Mechanical Toy Pigeon Made of Wood

[Illustration: Draw on the Wire and the Head and Tail Bob Up and Down]

When the head of the mechanical pigeon is lowered the tail rises, and

the reverse. It is constructed as follows: Make paper patterns for the

parts, which consist of two body pieces, a head, a tail, and the foot

piece. The shape of the parts is shown in the sketch, the front body

piece being removed to show the connections of the rubber and wire

controlling the movements. The view above shows the fastening of the

parts with nails. The main sizes of the parts, which are made of ¹⁄₈

to ¹⁄₄-in. soft wood, are: head, 1³⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₂ in.; body, 2 by 5¹⁄₄

in.; tail, 1¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₄ in.; foot piece, 1³⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ in. Mark the

shapes on the wood, cut them out, and mount them, with a rubber band

connecting the head and tail, as shown. Nail the foot piece between the

body pieces, and pivot the head and tail on nails. Connect the head

with a wire, having a loop on one end. Make the holder, and cut a slot

into it for the draw wire, operated with the finger.--C. C. Wagner, Los

Angeles, Calif.

Sportsman’s Cabinet for Guns, Equipment, and Books

[Illustration]

The books, magazines, guns, fishing tackle, camera, etc., of the

out-of-door man are often kept or laid aside in various places. To

provide a good place for such equipment, I made the case shown.

What apparently is a neat bookcase when closed, the top shelf used

as a magazine rack, accommodates numerous other articles. After the

“bookcase” has been examined superficially I open the door, swing the

shelves out, and display back of them my guns, hunting togs and outfit.

Two small drawers, covered by the upper rail of the door when closed,

hold various small articles; and a blind drawer under the door holds

shoes and the larger articles. I constructed this combination cabinet

as follows: The lumber used was ⁷⁄₈-in. chestnut. The dimensions of

the cabinet are 60 by 30 by 14 in. For the back of the bookshelf and

cabinet I used matched ceiling. The door casings are 4 in. wide; the

sidepieces of the door are 3 in. wide, the top, 4 in., and bottom

piece, 6 in. wide. This cabinet cost me less than $3 and does the

service of a gun cabinet valued at $30.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.

A Photographic-Negative Filing System

In order to preserve photographic negatives and to make them easily

available, the following homemade system was devised: The negatives

are kept in envelopes having a print from the negative therein mounted

on the face. A trial, or an inferior, print is used, and shows what

negative it contains. Extra prints and enlargements are kept in the

same envelope for each negative. On the face, or back, of the envelope

is written data, such as name or title of subject, place and date

taken, stop and shutter speed used, most suitable printing paper,

developer, etc. This data may be kept in the negative envelope on a

sheet of paper. This leaves the photograph album free from data that

is of no interest to persons viewing the pictures. The envelopes are

kept in their original boxes, classified as “Animals,” “Birds,” “Live

Stock,” “Landscapes,” “My 1914 Vacation Trip,” and so forth.

Knee-Rest Holder for Milking Pail

[Illustration]

Becoming tired of holding the milk pail between my knees while milking,

I made a contrivance of strap iron to overcome this. It is arranged so

that the milk pail will just fit inside, the curved straps supporting

the weight of the pail on the knees. The holder may be made of wood,

with the possible exception of the curved arms, which should be made

of pieces of iron, ¹⁄₈ in. thick and about 2 wide. The circular frame

can be made adjustable to various pails by bolts set in holes in the

bands.--J. C. Whitescarver, Miami, Okla.

Tool Sockets in Edge of Drawing Board

Drawing tools, pencils, etc., were kept out of the way on a drawing

board by inserting them in pockets drilled in the upper edge of the

drawing board. A small brass plate, pivoted on the center, was used

to cover each set of two pockets, and the latter were numbered on the

upper surface of the board.--Elmer O. Tetzlaff, De Pere, Wis.

Cart for Carrying Huge Drum in Parade

[Illustration: This Rubber-Tired Cart was Built Specially for a Large

Drum Used in Parades]

The inalienable right of the small boy to carry the drum in a parade

was disregarded when the cart shown in the sketch was made for a large

drum. Two rubber-tired wheels were mounted on an axle bent to fit the

drum, and curved handles, forming a supporting frame, were fixed to it.

The frame was made of hickory, steamed and bent into shape, and the

drum was arranged to be quickly dismounted.--W. C. K., Mason City, Iowa.

A Homemade Inverted Electric-Light Fixture

An attractive and serviceable inverted-light fixture for a den

and study was made at an outlay of about 30 cents, the details of

construction being shown in the illustration. The light is distributed

thoroughly, and with a 40-watt lamp is ideal for work at a desk. The

lower portion A is a tin washbasin, costing 10 cents, and the part C

is a cup-cake pan, costing 5 cents. The rim B is made of ⁵⁄₈-in. wood,

13 in. in diameter, and the disk E, 10 in. wide, is the round block

cut from the center of the rim B. The uprights D are made of ³⁄₈-in.

dowel rods and of a length suitable to the height of the room. They are

glued and toenailed to the rim and disk. F is a cup-cake pan, and G is

a drawer knob, fastened to the pan F. These parts can be omitted if

desired. They are fastened to the top with wood screws.

[Illustration: A Ten-Cent Washbasin was Used as a Reflector for This

Light Fixture]

The light socket is supported in a metal strap, H, having a rounded

offset to match a bolted clamping strip. The inside of the basin, being

tinned, acts as an excellent reflector. All parts except the inside of

the pan are enameled white. The fixture is fastened to the ceiling with

screws through the disk.--A. F. Krueger, Champaign, Ill.

* * * * *

¶The gummed portions of unsealed envelopes are often useful when a

gummed strip is desired.

Laying Out a Horizontal Sundial Plate

To make a sundial accurately it is necessary to lay out the lines for

the particular locality where it is to be used, as a dial will vary

slightly according to the latitude. The parts may be made of wood,

metal, or stone. A good method is to have a bronze casting made from

a wooden pattern. The lines may be cut with a lathe and planer in a

machine shop, or engraved by hand.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

Lay Out the Dial Plate Symmetrically, Allowing Space for the Style]

The illustrations show how the dial is made. The lines, as indicated

in Fig. 1, should be laid out very carefully, first on a pattern. Draw

a horizontal line near the top which represents the six-o’clock line,

A-VI, in Fig. 2. Then lay out another line AH, at right angles to A-VI.

Take a point C at any convenient place and construct the right-angled

triangle ABD. The angle CAB should be equal to the degree of latitude

of the place. The angle CBD equals CAB. Take a compass and set it to

a radius equal to the side BD, and draw the quadrant DF from E. From

D draw the line DG out for same distance and parallel with A-VI. Now

divide the quadrant DF into six equal parts. Draw the lines E1, E2, E3,

etc., and where they intersect the line DG, draw the lines from A, as

A-I, A-II, A-III, etc. These are the hour lines. Divide each of the six

divisions of the quadrant into four parts, and draw the lines, as shown

between the 3 and 4 divisions. These are the 15-minute parts. Each

of these parts may be divided in turn, and this is best done by eye,

unless the dial is quite large.

[Illustration: The Dial is Mounted Horizontally with the High End of

the Style toward the North]

[Illustration: FIG. 2

FIG. 3

Diagram for Marking the Dial and Making the Style]

This will complete one-half of the dial. The other half is done in the

same manner, leaving a space between the line AH and its corresponding

line for the other side of the dial. This space should be equal to the

thickness of the upright shadow-casting piece, or style. The style has

its base equal in length to the line AH, and its angle, S, equal to the

latitude, or the angle CAB. It is mounted in the space with the high

end at 12 o’clock. It may be fastened to the dial with screws passing

through the base. Mount the dial horizontally on a suitable pedestal.

The style should be exactly north and south, with 12 o’clock toward

the north. The dial will be fast or slow over clock time. This is

corrected by consulting an almanac and setting the clock accordingly

from the dial. A correction plate may thus be made and mounted on the

pedestal.--F. B. Walters, Baltimore, Md.

Homemade Roadster with Motorcycle Engine

By mounting a 5-hp. motorcycle engine on a frame built of 2 by 4-in.

stuff, and rigging the outfit on running gear made of gas-pipe axles,

old buggy springs, and motorcycle wheels, I made the light roadster

shown in the photograph, at small cost. It develops 30 miles an hour

easily, carrying only the driver, and has carried five persons. The

frame is suspended from the springs, with an underslung effect, on the

front axle. The power is transmitted by a friction drive, consisting of

a fiber contact pulley, obtained from an old commercial car, and a disk

used as a cutter on a plow.

[Illustration: This Friction-Drive Cyclecar was Built in Spare Time by

a Mechanic, Using Largely Makeshift Material]

The front axle is of 1-in. gas pipe fitted with suitable-size solid

nipples, and washers, at the bearings. The steering knuckle was made

of steel shafting turned down to fit a pipe tee, set in the axle. The

drive shaft is ⁷⁄₈ in. in diameter, and has a ball thrust bearing on

the end. Sprocket gearing gives a ratio of 6 to 1, on high speed.--E.

L. Munsen, La Conner, Wash.

Mending Aluminum Cooking Utensils

Holes in aluminum ware may be mended by plugging them with rivets as

follows: Make a rivet of lead or solder, and enlarge the hole to fit

the rivet tightly. Insert the rivet from the inside and back it with a

piece of hard wood, or metal. Rivet the other end to fill the hole and

lap over it slightly. Suitable rivets may be made by cutting a lead

wire, about ³⁄₄ in. long, and of the desired diameter, on which a head

is formed by riveting down the end. The wire is set in a hole in a

block during this operation.--L. C. Burke, Madison, Wis.

Feeding Cards into Typewriter

Trouble is sometimes experienced in feeding cards into a typewriter,

and this may be overcome by providing a paper sheet as a leader. Run

the sheet of paper into the machine and feed the card in after it,

lapping their adjoining edges. This prevents the edge of the card from

catching on the rolls.

A California Bungalow for Canaries

[Illustration]

An outdoor birdhouse, which has proved popular in various sizes,

especially for canaries, is that with a bungalow roof, and sides of

wire netting, as shown in the photograph reproduced. While a number of

these houses were made in a workshop to order, the construction is so

simple that boys will find considerable fun in making them, especially

in framing the roof. The house shown is 18 by 28 in., and 14¹⁄₂ in.

high to the eaves strip. The body of the house is made in two side and

two end frames, fastened at the corners with screws. The wire is put on

the frames before assembling them. A small, sliding door, of wood and

wire, is provided, or one end may be made in two frames, one of which

is hinged for a door. The eaves should extend at least 2¹⁄₂ inches.--H.

L. Coolidge, Pasadena, Cal.

Homemade Device Aids Blind Person in Writing

[Illustration: The Height of the Letters is Gauged by a Guide Wire]

To assist my father in writing, notwithstanding his blindness, I made

the machine shown in the illustration. It has been in use two years,

and proved thoroughly practical. It consists of a board, ¹⁄₂ by 11 by

13³⁄₄ in., on which the paper is held by a clip. Two stops, A, insure a

good alinement of the sheet. A T-square, B, slides in a groove at the

left side; the upper edge is beveled. At a distance of ³⁄₄ in. from

this edge is stretched a brass guide wire, C, by means of which the

height of the script is gauged. The wire is supported on brass strips,

D. When the line is written, a pin, E, set in one of a row of holes in

the groove F, is raised, the T-square moved, and the pin inserted in

the next hole below, giving the correct spacing. As the wire does not

touch the paper, either ink or pencil can be used. The board consists

of four pieces, glued, and fastened with screws, as detailed.--Arthur

E. Tremaine, Brookline, Mass.

Making Cardboard Tubes for Electrical Coils

It is often difficult to obtain cardboard tubes as foundations for

coils of special sizes, and the following is a practical method for

making them as desired: Cut a strip of cardboard somewhat wider than

the length of the tube desired and about 2 ft. long. Soak the cardboard

in water until it is quite pliable. Wrap it tightly around a wooden rod

of suitable size, gluing or shellacking each successive layer. When the

desired thickness has been obtained, bind the tube with string, and

place the whole in a moderately warm oven to dry. The tube may then be

cut to length.--Alexander V. Bollerer, New Britain, Conn.

An Army in a Small Box

[Illustration: By Reason of the Mirrors, a Few Soldiers Appear as an

Army]

A play device that will afford much amusement and which is interesting

for boys to make is that shown in the sketch. To make the peephole

cabinet, obtain a box of suitable size; fasten a piece of looking-glass

inside, at each end. Make a peephole at one end of the box, and rub the

silvering from the back of the looking-glass at the hole. Place a few

metal soldiers, horses, etc., along the sides of the box 1 or 2 in.

apart, one being set to hide the reflection of the hole. By looking

through the hole an endless army may be seen. Light is provided through

the skylight at the top, which is fitted with ground glass or tissue

paper. This device perplexes most persons who are not familiar with its

construction.--James E. Noble, Portsmouth, Canada.

Liquid-Filled Tray Carried Safely

In photographic work, and in the shop or laboratory, chemicals carried

in shallow trays are easily spilled. In photographic work, especially,

this endangers materials used, as the spilled liquid dries and dust

affected by it may spoil chemicals with which it comes into contact.

The tray should be carried in a larger pan or basin partly filled with

water, thus keeping the tray level.

Making an Umbrella Handle Detachable

[Illustration]

A parasol or umbrella with a detachable handle is a great convenience

in packing when traveling, and a handle may be made detachable as

follows: Remove the handle by using a block of wood and a hammer.

Clean out the hole, and polish the steel stem with emery, as far as

it goes into the handle. Cut off 1 in. from the end, and then solder

a section of brass tubing into this piece, and another section into

the end of the stem. The abutting ends are then tapped to fit an 8-32

screw, which is then soldered into the shorter piece, as shown. The

latter is pushed into the handle, and a hole, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter, is

drilled almost through the handle. A piece of wire nail is driven into

this hole. By making the screw fast in the handle rather than in the

stem, the threads are protected, and the length when taken apart is

correspondingly reduced.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

* * * * *

¶To renew a typewriter ribbon, roll it on a spool and apply a very

small drop of glycerin at intervals of several inches, with a

fountain-pen filler, and permit the glycerin to soak in thoroughly.

Boys’ Athletic-Equipment Locker

[Illustration: The Boy Who Takes Pride in His Athletic Equipment will

Find Much Pleasure in Making This Cupboard for It]

The boy should have a place in the home for his sports togs and

equipment, and a cupboard like that shown can be made easily for the

purpose. Its size will depend on the quantity of articles to be stored.

A good size is 12 by 30 in., by 5 ft. high. Plain boards are used, and

for the door they are fastened together with cleats and screws. The

drawer is convenient but not essential.--J. D. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.

Wire Compacts Bristles in Polish or Stencil Brushes

[Illustration]

The bristles of brushes used for applying shoe polish and for painting

through stencils often curl so much that the brush becomes almost

useless. In order to overcome this I bound the bristles with several

turns of wire and soldered them into place as shown. When desirable,

part of the wire may be removed by cutting it at the solder.--Hugo

Kretschmar, West Nyack, N. Y.

Old Table Used as Wall Workbench

Good use was made of an old table, one leg of which was broken, by

removing two of the legs at one side and fitting the table against

a wall. A wide board was set on the back edge of the table, against

the wall, and provided a rack for tools. A drawer was fitted into the

front of the table, and a small iron vise was clamped at one end. The

arrangement provided a convenient bench for home shop work.

Lettering Photo Prints without Marking Negative

Instead of scratching titles on photographic negatives, which often

produces a poor result, a good method is to write the title on the

sensitive paper with black ink before printing. Care must be taken not

to scratch the paper. The toning and fixing baths wash away the ink,

leaving the script or lettering white. The negative is thus unmarred.

Rope Pad Prevents Slamming of Door

[Illustration]

An antislam pad, made of a piece of rope and fixed to the knobs of

doors, is in general use in a large hospital. The device is made by

forming loops on the end of a short section of rope, as shown, and

fitting them over the door knob. This also prevents the closing of the

door so that a patient may be heard in calling an attendant.--C. M.

Hall, St. Louis, Missouri.

* * * * *

¶Curtain rollers should be arranged so that the direction of pull on

the tacked edge of the curtain is away from the end.

Box to Protect Extra Spark Plugs

[Illustration: The Spark Plugs are Fitted Compactly in the Case and are

Protected from Damage]

Damage often results to spark plugs which are thrown in the tool box of

an automobile, and the use of a small case for the extra spark plugs is

desirable. Partitions may be fitted into an old box of suitable size,

or a case may be specially made. That shown was designed to provide for

six spark plugs in a minimum of space. It was made of ¹⁄₄-in. wood, and

of a length so that the spark plugs could be slipped in the recesses

only by turning the faces of adjoining plugs together. A hinged cover

keeps them firmly in place.--E. R. Mason, Danville, Ill.

Homemade Spring Wagon Seat

Two ⁷⁄₈-in. boards, 12 in. wide, between which two 12-in. pieces of 2

by 4-in. wood are bolted, provide a strong spring seat for a wagon. The

boards are cut to a suitable length, and the 2 by 4-in. pieces are set

near the middle, and about 8 in. apart. This gives a spring seat at

each end of the device.

Cushioned Chair Made of a Barrel

A strong barrel may be made into a comfortable chair by cutting

it halfway through at the middle and shaping the remaining upper

portion into an arm and back rest. Holes are bored at the seat level

and at the back, and wires woven through them to form a backing for

excelsior-stuffed cushions.

Bicycle Fitted Up to Resemble Motorcycle

[Illustration: Comparison of the “Before and After” Illustrations Shows

Strikingly the Resemblance to a Motorcycle]

The boy who cannot own a motorcycle but who has a bicycle, may remodel

it to resemble a power-driven machine by fitting it up with equipment,

much of which can be made in the home workshop. The illustration shows

how an ordinary bicycle was improved by several practical fittings.

The lower end of the mudguard of the rear wheel was extended to form

a clip, for the homemade stand A. Brackets were made of strap iron to

support the bundle carrier B, the basket of which was made of wood. The

tank C, 3 by 3 by 21 in., with two compartments and doors, contains

batteries and tools. It is fastened to the frame by means of two bolted

straps. The bracket D was made of strap iron, to support the electric

headlight E. The handlebars were extended, as shown at F, and the horn

G was provided. The seat post was lengthened by welding a piece to it,

and reversed, as at H. A tail light, J, and a pump, K, held by straps,

were provided, and the front mudguard was fitted with a leather piece,

L, shaped as shown in the front view.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.

Toy Submarine Made of Shade Roller

[Illustration: This Submarine’s “Engine” is Wound by Means of the

Propeller]

The submarine shown really goes, and was made of a bit of tin, some

lead, a few brads, and an old window-shade roller, with a good spring.

The spring is the submarine engine. Saw off the roller 3 in. beyond

the inner end of the spring, and shape it like the bow of a submarine.

Flatten a piece of lead, and fasten it to the bottom of the boat for

a keel. Experiment until the keel is of the right weight, and in the

proper place, permitting the boat to move evenly, just below the

surface of the water. For the propeller, cut a 2-in. tin disk as shown,

and bend the blades into shape. In the center make a hole to admit the

end of the spring, to which it is then soldered. Wind up the “engine”

by turning the propeller. The shade-roller spring can also be used for

other toy craft.--E. P. Sullivan, Arlington, Massachusetts.

* * * * *

¶Rub powdered graphite on rubber and asbestos gaskets so that they

may be removed easily when desired.

Simple Machine for Transmitting Writing

[Illustration: A Message Written on the Pad with a Pencil is

Transmitted to the Other Pad at a Considerable Distance Away]

An interesting and novel construction for amateur or boy mechanics is a

telautograph or writing telegraph machine. The instruments, as shown,

are duplicates with the exception of the placing of the rubber bands.

They can be made in different sizes, and satisfactory results were

obtained by making the base 7 by 12 in., the arm B 5 in. long and ³⁄₄

in. wide, and the triangle C 6 in. by 3¹⁄₂ in. A hole is bored in the

arm B, slightly smaller than the pencil to be used and a slot sawed

from the edge to hole, so that when the pencil is forced into the hole

it will be tightly gripped, as at A. The arm B is fastened to triangle

C, to move freely. The triangle is fastened to the base, and can also

move freely. The rubber bands D are stretched tightly to hold the

moving parts in position. The strings E should be strong, and stretched

taut.

[Illustration]

The larger diagram shows the instruments placed in parallel position.

The smaller diagram shows how they can be placed one above the other.

An unruled pad is fastened to the base of each instrument with thumb

tacks. The operation may be traced by noting the successive action of

the parts when the pencil on the pad at the left is moved in writing

a message. The pivoted triangle communicates the action to the string

E, which actuates the other triangle and its lever system. The rubber

bands serve to steady the action. The instruments may be arranged a

short distance apart for play or experimental purposes or set in rooms

on different floors, by making suitable pulley connections for the

cords E.--William Freebury, Buffalo, N. Y.

Diagonal Corners on Disk-Record Covers

[Illustration]

Having been bothered with the edges of square paper covers of disk

records curling, making it unhandy to place them in a file, I remodeled

them as shown in the sketch. The covers without the lower corners

were so convenient that I made others by folding and pasting paper

of the shape shown in the pattern. It was found desirable to use

a good quality of paper for the new envelopes as this gave added

protection.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Ontario, Can.

Live Poultry Weighed Handily in Funnel Scale

A deep funnel, or cone, made of sheet metal and attached to an ordinary

platform weighing scale or a draw scale, is useful especially in

weighing live poultry. The fowl is placed in the funnel head first and

remains quiet while being weighed, which is not the case in most common

methods of weighing. The funnel is mounted on three legs, for use on a

platform scale, and suspended from a ring by chains, from the hook of a

drawspring scale.--C. W. Reemtsen, Des Moines, Ia.

Transferring Pictures to Glass

The surface of glass on which pictures are to be transferred must be

thoroughly clean. A coat of nearly colorless varnish is applied, and

permitted to dry overnight in a room free from dust. Wet the picture,

soaking it in clear water for about 10 minutes. Place it on blotting

paper with the front side down, leaving the back wet. Varnish the

glass again, and place the picture face down on the varnished surface,

pressing out the bubbles, working from the center out. Rub on the back

of the transfer paper until the picture is transferred to the varnished

surface, and remove the paper carefully. Permit the picture on the

glass to dry, and then varnish it.

An Order-Memo Device for Delivery Routes

A milk driver who had many extra orders of milk and cream to deliver

had considerable difficulty in keeping track of the orders. He overcame

this difficulty by the use of a clip attached to the steering wheel of

his truck. He got a spring clothespin, wired one side of it to one of

the spokes of the steering wheel, and now places his extra orders in a

ring attached to the clip, as they come on his route. When he makes a

delivery, he moves the memo on the ring, bringing the next order before

him. This method can be used in many other businesses, where articles

such as newspapers are delivered on routes.--Francis W. Nunenmacher,

Berkeley, California.

* * * * *

¶To counteract mildew on canvas, coat the parts with soap and rub

well with powdered chalk or whiting.

Model Paddle-Wheel Boats

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 3

FIG. 2

The Rubber-Band Motor is Wound Up at the Crank, and Propels the Boat

About 20 Feet]

Only a few boys have ponds of their own, in a pasture, perhaps. But

there are miniature lakes in our city parks, pools at our summer camps,

and old water holes in the woods; if all of these fail, a boy can

still sail his ships on the bathtub sea. A simple side-wheeler, built

of wood, is shown in the sketch. It winds up with a crank and runs

15 to 20 ft. A float is made by pointing the ends of a thick board,

the dimensions of which are given in Fig. 1. On this the paddle-wheel

frame is nailed, as shown in the top view, Fig. 1, the side view, Fig.

2, and the end view, Fig. 3. It is made of thin wood. A broom-handle

section, just long enough to slip into this frame, is whittled to form

a winding drum, and fitted with paddles, wire axles, and a crank. A

second shorter section of the broom-handle, set between blocks nailed

to the stern, serves as a roller for the rubber bands. These, linked

together and tied to a length of heavy cord, as shown in Fig. 1, are

fixed to the bow and run over the roller to the drum. The addition of a

top, or lid, of cardboard, wood, or tin, and painted to resemble cabins

and pilot house, and fitted with masts and a smokestack, completes

the model. Fig. 5 shows a similarly built stern-wheeler with the

stern-wheel shaft set on brackets.--E. R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.

[Illustration: FIG. 5

The Stern-Wheeler Is Similar in Construction to the Side-Wheeler as to

Driving Mechanism]

A Small Thresher of Practical Use

Buckwheat, oats, wheat, morning-glory seeds, and other grains and

seeds, were successfully cleaned with a model thresher of simple design

which I made from materials picked up in and around the farm workshop.

It is 24 in. high, 14 in. wide, and 3¹⁄₂ ft. long. For a cylinder, I

used a roller, 3 in. in diameter and 1 ft. long. The teeth are nails

driven spirally about the cylinder in rows that alternate with similar

teeth in the concave, the nails being driven ¹⁄₂ in. apart. The fan

consists of a small roller upon which four pieces of tin are nailed.

The beaters are larger rollers, into which wooden teeth are set. To

hold the cylinder, fan, and beaters in place, four posts and two

crosspieces were used, as shown.

[Illustration: Made as a Model, This Small Thresher Proved Useful for

Various Grains and Seeds]

The power used is an 8-ft. windmill that I constructed, using a buggy

wheel as the frame. The cylinder must be run at a fairly high speed,

the fan nearly as fast, and the beaters may be run much slower; this is

taken care of by the relative size of the pulleys. The screen between

the fan and beaters must be of small mesh so that grain will not fall

through into the fan chamber. The sieve through which the grain drops

must be the proper size for grain, and can be varied for the different

kinds of grain or seed threshed. It is better to put only the heads of

grain into the thresher, as long straws twist about the rollers. The

material to be threshed is fed into the cylinder in the usual manner,

and takes its course as indicated by the arrows, the grain falling to

the spout at the bottom, and the straw and chaff being blown out at the

exhaust for it. Soft wood was used in the construction, ⁷⁄₈-in. stock

for the heavier pieces, and ³⁄₈ or ¹⁄₄-in. stock for the other parts.

The curved housing for the fan was made of tin. Leather or rope belts,

fitted tightly, may be used. The power is applied on the cylinder

pulley, hand or other power being suitable.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N.

Y.

Moth-Ball Puzzle as Window-Advertising Novelty

A druggist recently puzzled thousands with a novel window display. A

small white ball in a 1-in. glass tube, about 10 in. long, displayed

in a show window, would sink to the bottom, then slowly ascend, only

to sink as before. A sign reading “What Makes It Move?” kept the crowd

guessing. The tube was apparently filled with water. The construction

is simple. The tube is about three-quarters full of carbonated soda

water. The white ball is an ordinary moth ball. The ball sinks, and

when it becomes soaked gradually as it lowers, bubbles of gas cling

to it, carrying it to the top of the solution. There the gas escapes,

destroying the ball’s buoyancy, and causing it to sink again, This

process is repeated over and over.--David J. Lonergan, Minneapolis,

Minnesota.

Record-Cleaning Pad Fixed to Talking Machine

[Illustration]

By providing a practical method of keeping talking-machine records

free from dust automatically, as they are played, the life of the

record is prolonged and the reproductions are more clear, and free from

scratching sounds. A felt pad supported on a fixture made of a strip of

brass does the work nicely. The pad is clamped in a clip at the end of

the brass strip, and the entire device is held in place by the spring

action of the upper clip, which fits over the end of the reproducing

arm. The pad or the whole device can be slipped out of place quickly.

Novel Uses for Safety Pins

[Illustration: TO ROAST POTATO OVER OVEN GRATE

TIN-PAIL EAR

CARD SUPPORT

SCREEN-DOOR SPRING REPAIR

EYE FOR FISH-HOOK SINKER

HOLDS BUGGY CURTAIN OVER TORN BUTTON-HOLE

SPRING HINGE FOR BOX

DRY-BATTERY CONNECTOR

These Eight Examples of How an Ordinary Safety Pin can be Used for

Practical Purposes Are Suggestive of Many Others]

It is surprising to note how many uses can be made of an ordinary

safety pin, both as an emergency-repair device, and for other purposes.

I found 40 simple uses for safety pins, a few of which are shown

in the illustration. Some of the many other uses are as a chain, a

candle holder, a spring, a cover holder for a kettle, and as a pencil

clip. Most of these can be made by twisting the safety pin with a

small plier. By using a cutting plier, many more useful kinks can be

devised.--George G. McVicker, North Bend, Neb.

Moving Heavy Objects with a Broom

[Illustration: The Broom Is Slippery and Rides over the Floor or Even

Carpets without Trouble]

After trying to move a heavy trunk alone, the attempt is usually

given up until some friend can be called in to lend a hand, because a

truck or other means of handling such heavy objects is not at hand.

An ordinary sweeping broom will serve as a sled to move a stove or

similar object in the home without heavy lifting. The straw in the

broom is slippery and can be drawn over carpets without injuring them.

In handling a stove, the legs must of course be removed, one person

drawing the load and the other steadying it.--Samuel H. Avery, Chicago,

Ill.

Rear Seat for Motorcycle or Bicycle

[Illustration: This Light-Weight Homemade Rear-Seat Fixture Is a

Convenience for a Strong Bicycle or Motorcycle]

A rear seat mounted on a light support that can be quickly attached

to a strong bicycle or a motorcycle is handy, and one like that shown

in the sketch can be made in the home workshop. The supporting frame,

consisting of two main sections forming a fork over the rear axle, and

a brace extending to the bicycle frame, are made of ¹⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄-in.

strap iron. The seat and the handlebars are supported on posts of the

usual type, flattened at their lower ends, and riveted to the fixture.

The lower ends of the fork are bent to form foot rests. The detailed

construction of the seat post and the method of clamping the brace at

A are shown in the smaller sketches. The fastenings on the seat and

handlebar posts are made with rivets or bolts.--P. P. Avery, Garfield,

N. J.

Changing Wheels Equalizes Wear on Baby-Cab Tires

The front and rear wheels of a baby cab are usually of the same size

and the tires on the rear wheels are worn much more rapidly than those

on the front wheels. By changing the position of the wheels, the wear

on the tires is equalized, making it unnecessary to renew them until

all are worn out.--J. Cecil Alter, Cheyenne, Wyo.

A Craftsman Leather Billfold

BY LIVINGSTON HAVILAND

The making of a billfold is easily within the range of an amateur

in leather work, who will observe the instructions carefully. Seal,

morocco, pigskin, and ooze sheep are satisfactory. Skiver, or thin

leather, and silk moiré make suitable linings. When the processes

involved in the making of the billfold are mastered, numerous other

small articles in leather will suggest themselves, and can be made

similarly.

[Illustration: Fig. 1. Place the Pattern on the Leather and Trim It to

Size Even with the Edges of the Pattern]

The finished billfold is shown with the cardcase side up; folded, and

with the bill compartment open, in Fig. 2. Begin the making of it by

cutting a pattern of stiff cardboard for the main portion, or body part

No. 1, as shown in Fig. 1.

Make a second pattern for body part No. 2, as shown in Fig. 1. Trim the

leather to fit the patterns, a straight edge of metal being placed over

the pattern as a guide for the knife. A close-grained hardwood board,

or a piece of sheet zinc, is suitable as a base for cutting the leather.

Cut pieces of lining slightly larger than the patterns. If skiver is

used, it must be glued to the leather with a good quality of leather

glue, which should be pliable so as not to crack the leather. Do not

stretch the lining, but merely smooth it gently, as otherwise it may

cause the leather to buckle. Place the glued parts under a light weight

to dry. In fitting the silk lining into place, apply a thin stripe

of glue around the edges only, and permit them to extend beyond the

leather. Then trim them off neatly.

Part No. 1 is to be folded to form the back of the billfold and also

the two pockets for cards. The parts are glued as shown in Fig. 3.

Weight the billfold and permit the glue to dry. The sewing may then be

undertaken.

[Illustration: Fig. 2. The Photographs Show the Cardcase Side, the

Folded Billfold, and the Silk-Lined Money Compartment]

[Illustration: Fig. 3. Glue the Parts Together Carefully along the

Edges, and Fold the Ends as Indicated]

The neatness of the billfold will depend largely on the care with

which the sewing is done, and the finish on the edges. Draw a straight

line with a blunt-point tool along the edges to be sewed, ³⁄₁₆ in.

from them. Mark the spacing for an inch of the stitches on a strip of

paper and transfer them to the stitching line. Punch the holes, making

certain that each is made with the awl held vertical, as shown at D.

Back the open ends with strips of cardboard when punching holes in

them. Heavy, waxed silk of a color to match the leather is used for the

sewing. The work may be done by hand without a holder, clamped between

two boards. Thread the two needles and start them from the right side,

as at E. Pass the needle from the first hole through the second as at

F. With the needles then in position, as at G, continue this stitch.

Tie the ends of the thread neatly at the end of the stitching. Trim the

edges and tool them to a smooth finish with a suitable metal tool, or

rod, heated moderately, applying water with the finger tip.

* * * * *

¶The taper of a key is generally ¹⁄₈ in. per foot of length, and keys

having a head are preferable because of greater ease in removing

them. The width of a key is usually ¹⁄₄ the diameter of the shaft,

plus ¹⁄₈ inch.

Lawn Mower Sharpened Efficiently with Simple Rigging

[Illustration: The Lawn Mower is Sharpened Quickly by the Use of This

Rigging]

With this device, one can quickly sharpen the lawn mower, or perhaps

earn money sharpening the neighbors’ machines. Because several knives

in a lawn mower work against the cutting blade, it is difficult to

sharpen a mower satisfactorily with a file or stone. A usual method

is to reverse the cutting-wheel cogs, turn the mower upside down, and

run it backward over the ground. By the use of grinding paste on the

cutting blade the cutting wheel tends to sharpen itself. This process

can be improved by supporting the mower, as shown at A, the blocks

permitting the mower’s driving wheels to rest outside them. A block, B,

supports the wooden roller. Remove the driving wheels, and the gears

which turn the cutting wheel. Take the gear from one end and put it in

the other end, replacing the driving wheel. By revolving the latter

backward, the cutting wheel will also turn backward. Apply a paste of

emery powder and lubricating oil to the cutting blade, and adjust the

blade so that it comes fairly into contact with the cutting wheel. Turn

the driving wheel backward, and gradually tighten the adjustment until

a good edge on the cutting blade and the knives is produced.

A handle fixed on the driving wheel, as shown at C, makes turning

it easier. After sharpening, replace the gears, clean the bearings

thoroughly, and replace the driving wheels.--Ed. M. Hawes, Everett,

Wash.

Rubber Pads for Opening Screw Watch Bezel

The modern screw case for watches is primarily for the purpose of

keeping dust from getting into the delicate works. Unless one is

possessed of a strong grip, it is hard not only to set the case tight

enough to keep out dust, but also to open the watch when adjustment is

necessary. To make this work easy, a jeweler has, as a part of his tool

kit, several rubber dies to fit the different sizes of watch cases. He

made them from old rubber heels, cut to fit the watch cases closely.

Danger of breaking the crystal is also overcome.--C. E. Drayer,

Cleveland, Ohio.

Spring Roost Releases Poultry-House Door Latch

[Illustration: The Door is Opened Automatically When the Fowl Leave

Their Roost]

Those in the habit of shutting their poultry houses at night to prevent

disturbance or loss by night-prowling animals, will be interested

in a contrivance that makes this unnecessary. The principle of the

mechanism, as illustrated is that the opening to the poultry house is

closed after the fowls have gone to roost, and in the morning when they

descend from the roost, the door automatically opens, and they are free

to go out. The spring door opens inside with hinges at the side, and a

suitable bumper. The spring has just sufficient tension to cause the

door to open when the catch is released.

The roost is fitted up as shown in the detail. One end is held by a

bolt, while the other rests on a coil spring compressed by the weight

of the fowls on the roost. A cord is attached at the spring end,

passing through pulleys to the door, where it is fastened to the end of

the bolt catch. The door is closed after the fowls are on the roost.

The spring end is compressed to a level position, by their weight.

The instant the birds leave the roost, it rises and pulls the cord,

releasing the catch, and permitting the door to open.--George S. Brown,

Norwich, Conn.

A Child’s Bell-Ringing Hoop

[Illustration]

In making this useful toy, first, a wheel from an old baby carriage

was stripped of the tire; then two laths are fastened together at one

end, and the wheel inserted between them, at the other end, and held

by a bolt. A strong cord was passed around the groove in the wheel,

and around a spool, nailed so as to turn on the side of the lath when

the wheel is rotated. Driven into the rim of the spool are three

nails, which strike against the old alarm-clock bell, fastened as

indicated.--W. F. MacGregor, Toronto, Can.

Emergency Camp Stoves Quickly Made

[Illustration: Boys at a Summer Camp Kept Themselves Busy during a Cold

Spell by Making These Stoves]

While conducting a boys’ camp in summer we experienced a severe

sleet storm. Our tents were not equipped with stoves and I faced a

double problem: to keep the boys warm and to keep them contented. The

difficulty was solved by having them construct emergency camp stoves,

as shown, using iron stovepipe, and other material at hand. One length

of pipe is laid under the side of the tent about 4 in. in the ground,

as in Fig. 1. An elbow mounted in sod connects with the chimney. A

stone at the front of the stove regulates the draft, and stones placed

upon the pipe hold the heat. The arrangement diagrammed in Fig. 2

is built with one length of pipe or a stone conduit. A hole is dug

into the ground, about 10 in. deep. Over this is placed a pan, and

an opening is made at the front for the fuel. The chimney is made of

stones and sticks picked up around the camp, and plastered with mud.

Coffee may be boiled or small cooking done on this stove.--William H.

Leach, Alden, N. Y.

Pruning and Brush-Cutting Knife

[Illustration]

With the blade of an old beef cutter and a stout wood handle, I

fashioned a brush knife that is superior to a sickle for cutting down

heavy weeds. The blade was secured in a slotted handle by a screw and

rivet, and the top of the handle wired as an additional security. A

blade of this sort is handy, also, for pruning purposes.--J. M. Kane,

Doylestown, Pa.

Plier Drives Nails in Backing Picture Frame

[Illustration]

The fastening of a picture into a frame by the use of brads, or tacks,

driven into the frame behind the backing is often done carelessly,

because it is difficult to do a neat job with an ordinary hammer. A

much better way of driving in these nails is to use a plier, as shown.

Protect the edge of the frame with a layer or two of cardboard, and

start the nail carefully, forcing it in by steady pressure on the plier

handles.

Clip Holds Flash Lamp on Handlebar as Headlight

[Illustration]

An ordinary pocket flash light makes a satisfactory headlight for

a bicycle if fitted to the handlebar with a suitable clip. The

arrangement shown makes it possible to remove the light quickly for use

in the usual manner. The clip, as detailed, is of spring brass and is

clamped over the post of the handlebar.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, N. J.

A Backwoodsman’s Nutcracker

[Illustration]

Most persons know what a difficult job it is to crack hickory nuts,

unless provided with a suitable hammer, or other tool, for the purpose.

When nut hunting, such tools are usually not at hand, and a method used

by an old backwoodsman will be of interest. First he cut a hickory

limb, about 2 in. thick and 3 ft. long. In the center of the limb, he

cut a square notch, about halfway through, and just large enough to

admit a nut. Then placing one end of the limb on the ground, the other

end held in the left hand, he placed a nut in the notch, and bent the

limb slightly. This brought the edges of the notch closer together, and

cracked the nut neatly.--C. M. Vaiden, Portland, Ore.

Handy Tool for Tightening Wire Spokes in Wheels

[Illustration]

The wire spokes in bicycle and similar wheels often become loose, and

a small pocket device for tightening them on the road is handy. A

satisfactory one can be made quickly from a washer, 2 in. in diameter,

cut as shown. A tapering slot is cut to the center of the washer to

engage the nipples of various-sized spokes. The outer circumference of

the washer is filed with a triangular file to provide a good finger

grip.--H. E. Randell, Boston, Mass.

Bottle Economizes Spray Liquid in Atomizer

[Illustration]

Atomizers are sometimes provided with delivery tubes the lower ends

of which are ¹⁄₄ in. or more above the bottom of the reservoir, thus

rendering useless considerable of the spraying liquid. To overcome this

waste, in the case of expensive sprays, a small homeopathic vial was

filled with the liquid from the bottom of the reservoir, and lowered

into the bottle, as shown. The delivery tube of the atomizer was set

into the vial, and the cap screwed on. By this means almost every drop

of the spraying fluid was utilized.--Carl L. Hartshorn, West Haven,

Conn.

A Small Rotary Pump Easily Made

[Illustration: The Rotating Spools Press against the Water Hose and

Force the Water from It at Increased Pressure]

This small power pump is made from a block of wood, a piece of rubber

hose, and a 5-arm rotor of brass, with small spools attached to it.

The base of the casing is 6 in. square, and of ⁷⁄₈-in. wood. A ³⁄₄-in.

triangular block is set at each corner, and a ¹⁄₈-in. cover of wood,

fastened at the four corners with screws. A large nail is used as a

shaft for the rotor, which is cut from brass, ¹⁄₃₂ to ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick.

Small spools are mounted on the arms of the rotor, and the small pulley

wheel is fixed on the end of the axle. The action is simple: As the

rollers on the arms revolve against the hose, the force of the stream

at the discharge end is increased, the device acting as a pump. Such an

arrangement was used for moving targets in a rifle range, and can be

built on a larger scale if desired. A small water, or electric, motor

is used to drive the pump.--S. A. Hardy, St. Paul, Minn.

Cleaning Type Cases with Bicycle Pump

Type cases can be cleaned easily by using a bicycle pump, which will

blow the dust out. Typewriters and other small machinery can also be

cleaned this way. A long hose used with a foot pump is often preferable

to the hand pump.

Weighted Rope Holds Flag Upright

[Illustration: This Weighted Rope Permits the Flag to Fly in Its

Natural Position]

A householder devised a simple and effective method of keeping the flag

upright when displayed from a nearly horizontal flagstaff. The cord

which held the flag was run through pulleys, as indicated, and weighted

with a pulley weight.--M. T. Kanary, Chicago, Illinois.

Homemade Gate Sign with Metal Letters

[Illustration: The Metal Letters were Quickly Made and Are Durable as

Well as Neat]

Needing a permanent sign to be mounted on an iron gate, I made one of

metal, which is more durable and better-looking than most wooden or

other common signs that the home mechanic can make. I used sheet metal

and marked out the letters to cut them from the smallest possible

strip, by reversing some of them. They were cut out with snips and

chisels, and the edges filed smooth. The letters were then soldered

to heavy wires, which were bolted to the gate by means of sheet-metal

straps and bolts, as shown. The letters should be polished from time

to time, especially if made from brass or copper.--Hugo Kretschmar,

Brooklyn, N. Y.

Reinforcing the Ends of Rubber Handlebar Grips

The flexible rubber grips used on bicycles and motorcycles have good

shock-absorbing qualities, but they have a tendency to break off at

the end of the handlebar. They may be reinforced by a small stick

projecting from the end of the handlebar tubing. One end of the stick

is cut to fit tightly in the opening, and the other to fit the flexible

end of the grip.--George M. Zimmerman, Fort Sumner, N. M.

Film Holder for Photographic Developing

[Illustration]

The amateur photographer who uses roll film and who does his developing

by the tray method, will find this device a simple and reliable means

for holding the film spool while removing the film, duplex paper,

autographic carbon paper, gummed labels, etc. Once the spool is

properly placed in the holder, there is little danger of its dropping.

The holder takes various sizes of film spools. The side fingers are

³⁄₁₆ by ³⁄₄ by 23 in. long. A small peg is set in each finger, 1¹⁄₈ in.

from the end, to engage the spool. The upper ends of the fingers are

nailed to a tapered block of wood, ⁷⁄₈ by 3¹⁄₄ and 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, and

8 in. long. The holder can be conveniently fastened to a wall, door

casing, or to the under side of a shelf in the dark room.--John Hoeck,

Alameda, Calif.

Old Sink Installed as Dish-Draining Basin

[Illustration: The Extra Sink Replaces the Drain Board and Does Its

Work More Effectively]

An added convenience for the housewife is the installation, in the

place of the drain board customarily attached to the kitchen sink, of

a second sink, with waste connections. Light wooden slats in the sink

bottom give it all the utility of a drain board, without the danger of

dishes slipping off onto the floor. A sink, of the old-fashioned kind

used, can be purchased about as cheaply as a good drain board.--E. C.

Blomeyer, Waco, Tex.

Desk-Light Arm Folds into Pigeonhole

[Illustration: This Desk Lamp and Holder Folds Up into a Pigeonhole

When Not in Use]

The extension arm for an electric lamp shown in the illustration was

made of strips from steel building toys. I installed it in my writing

desk, and fastened it with one screw to the back of the desk inside the

pigeonhole. When collapsed the arm measures 7¹⁄₂ in. from the fastened

end to the front end of the socket, leaving only the globe protruding.

Extended, it measures 16¹⁄₂ in. The lamp cord is taken through a hole

in the back of the desk. If a very rigid arm is wanted, the strips can

be doubled. I used screws with two nuts, but rivets can be used also,

leaving the joints to move freely. The sliding feature at the inner end

adds about 2 in. to the length of the arm when extended.--A. J. Viken,

Waterloo, Ia.

A Soldier’s or Traveler’s Kit for Sundries and Toilet Articles

[Illustration: The Soldier Appreciates a Handy Folding Kit, Especially

If the Girl He Left Behind Made It]

A soldier’s kit approved by a colonel of the national guard because

of its compactness, can be made easily of a band of khaki cloth. The

kit, including the “housewife,” requires cloth, 27 in. wide. Cut 12 in.

from one end for the housewife, which is 12 by 5 in. wide. To make the

housewife, fold under the edges ¹⁄₄ in., and fold one end over 2¹⁄₂ in.

and the other 1¹⁄₂ in. for pockets. In the larger center pocket can be

placed court plaster, adhesive tape, photographs, letters, etc. Bind

the edges ¹⁄₄ in., and form other pockets, as shown. The entire kit

weighs 1¹⁄₄ lb. and can be carried by the soldier in his army blanket.

The housewife, if necessary, can be removed and taken to the firing

line. Handy articles to be fitted in the kit are mirror that can be

hung up, comb, box of talcum powder, cold cream, tooth paste, pencil,

wash cloth, soaps, shaving brush, toothbrush, and scissors. Three

safety pins at the top of the bag enable it to be hung up in the tent.

Strong binding tapes are sewed to the bag, and it can be folded handily

in three sections.--Kate Thomen, Topeka, Kans.

Cooling Foodstuffs with a Moist Rag and a Draft

It is not always necessary to keep milk and butter, or other

foodstuffs, in refrigerator temperature to preserve hem, for 50 or 60°

will often serve quite as well where the articles are to be consumed

within a short time. To accomplish this slight degree of cooling,

wrap a moist linen cloth, single thickness, snugly about the dish or

package, and place it in a shallow pan of water, in an open window,

out of the sun. The brick of butter should be placed on a support to

hold it out of the water. The cooling is due to evaporation from the

moist cloth. Not infrequently on a warm summer day, a thermometer with

a bulb, wetted as suggested, will be 20° cooler in a breeze, than a

dry-bulb thermometer.

* * * * *

¶A table of decimal equivalents, or other information can be mounted

in shellac, at an angle to be easily read, at the head of a T-square,

and is quite convenient.

Device Quarters and Cores Apples and Other Fruit

[Illustration]

To provide a simple homemade device for cutting apples and other fruit

into quarters and at the same time removing the core, the arrangement

shown in the sketch was made. The circular frame is built up around

a ring, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, and the ribs and handles are soldered

to it. A strip of galvanised iron, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, was used for the

cutting portion, and the lower edge was filed sharp, and then finished

with a small oil stone. In use, the cutter is set over the fruit, as

shown, and by pressure on the handles, it is cut neatly.--L. N. Brown,

Baltimore, Md.

Detachable Motor-Driven Tire Pump Made of Foot Pump

[Illustration]

To make this motor-driven pump, which I use with considerable success,

I fitted a bicycle foot pump to a stand, arranging it to be detached

quickly. A 4-in. wooden disk was cut in two, and one-half bolted to the

stirrup of the pump. A wheel, 14 in. in diameter and 2 in. thick, was

mounted on a 2 by 6-in. support, as shown. A crankpin at the outer edge

of the large wheel was connected to the plunger of the pump. The latter

may be run with an electric motor, belted as indicated, or with other

power. I use a small homemade water motor described in “Shop Notes,”

with excellent results.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.

Fisherman’s Pail with Wire-Mesh Cage

[Illustration]

Oftentimes the fisherman takes a pail along on a fishing excursion so

that he may bring back his catch alive, to put it in a water tank, or

to keep the fish fresh. The water in an ordinary pail soon becomes

stale, and the fish may die before he reaches home. They should be

kept in the water of the lake or stream until the fisherman goes home.

A good means of caring for them, superior to the common string, is to

make a wire-mesh container, to fit inside the water pail, as shown.

The mesh form can be lifted out, carrying with it all of the fish in

the pail, and be set in the fresh water.--Dale R. Van Horn, Milton,

Wisconsin.

Reinforcing a Strained Auto-Truck Frame

The side member of an automobile-truck frame was overstrained, and

started to sag. To replace it with a new channel piece was out of the

question, so it was decided to repair the trouble. A piece of ³⁄₁₆-in.

plate steel was cut to the proper length, in a truss-shape, wider at

the middle than at the ends, to carry the load properly. It was riveted

to the strained member by means of ⁵⁄₁₆-in. round-head rivets, and

prevented further sagging.

Drying Rack for Shoes and Rubbers

[Illustration]

Footgear is injured when not properly dried out after use in water or

in rough weather, and to care for the shoes, rubbers, etc., I made a

rack fitted behind a stove on which they are dried out quickly and

thoroughly. The rack consists of a row of brackets made of strap iron,

bent as shown in the sketch, and the shoes are slipped on them. The

brackets are mounted on a strip of wood, which is fastened to the

wall with screws. A thin piece of board or sheet metal protects the

wall.--Edgar Morgan, Robbinsdale, Minn.

Keeping Scissors Blades Apart Lengthens Their Service

Scissors will wear better and keep their cutting edges longer, if

they are kept hanging up with the blades apart when not in use. The

better-grade scissors, especially the longer pairs, are made with

each blade slightly bowed, so that in cutting, the edges cross at an

angle near the cutting point. Keeping them closed tends to weaken the

springiness of the blades, and the points are worn by contact under

tension.--John M. Bonbright, Philadelphia, Pa.

Making Lead Soldiers and Similar Small Castings

BY E. R. GARFIELD

The boy who likes to play games in which the lead soldier and other

features of imitation warfare have a part, can make his own lead

soldiers, and other castings, by the use of a plaster-of-Paris mold.

If he cannot undertake this work alone, the process is interesting for

his older brother, or even for “daddy.” A mold of plaster of Paris,

as shown in the illustration, is used for the casting box. The hollow

impression of the soldier is filled with the molten lead, which is

poured in through the sprue hole at the top. When the lead cools, the

mold is opened, the casting removed, and the process repeated. An

entire army can thus be made with a single mold.

First obtain a small lead soldier, and coat it with shellac. Make a

box somewhat larger than the pattern for the soldier, as shown in the

sketch. Make it about 1¹⁄₂ in. deep, and set bolts near the corners,

as shown, pouring the plaster around them. Fill the box half full of

plaster of Paris. While still soft, press the pattern into the center

of the plaster so that half its thickness is imbedded. Permit the under

mold to dry, and remove the pattern. Shellac the surface of the plaster

and the impression. Wrap a layer of oiled paper around the bolts.

Replace the pattern in the impression and fill the remaining half of

the box with plaster, and permit it to dry.

Also make a small wooden plug, and set it in the center, its point

touching the pattern, and pour the plaster around it. When the mold is

dry remove this plug, thus forming the sprue hole, through which the

molten lead is poured into the mold.

[Illustration: Lead Soldiers, and Many Other Small Castings, can be

Made by the Use of This Plaster-of-Paris Mold]

When the second part of the mold is dry, lift it carefully from the

under mold, and remove the pattern. Shellac the surface of the top

mold, cleaning away any small bits of plaster around the edges. Trim

down the box so that the top mold projects over it about ³⁄₈ in.,

making it easy to drop the top mold into place over the bolts. To

use the mold, make certain that it is clean inside and set the top

into place. Fasten down the wing nuts at the washers. Be very careful

that the mold is dry, as hot metal poured on a wet surface may cause

a dangerous splash. Repeat this process, and if care is taken about

300 castings can be made with one mold. The soldiers can be painted

suitably and even sold in sets. The process can be adapted to many

forms of other small castings, using other suitable metals, or wax,

where the casting is to be molded into shape further.

A Trap Nest for the Poultry House

[Illustration: The Trap Nest Automatically Closes as the Hen Enters the

Nest Box, Releasing the Trigger]

Poultry raisers find a trap nest useful, and one can be made quickly

by fitting an old packing box with a suitable sliding gate. In the

arrangement shown, the gate is raised slightly as the hen enters the

nest box, releasing the spring and causing the gate to drop. The gate

and spring can be adjusted to various-sized breeds of poultry. The two

grooved uprights can be cut from flooring and the other wooden parts

made from laths or wooden strips. The trigger is made of wire.--A. J.

Call, Hartsville, Mass.

A Simple Wireless Detector

[Illustration: This Neat Wireless Detector was Made of Materials Easily

Gathered in the Boy’s Workshop]

A cheap and serviceable wireless detector was made from odds and ends

such as any amateur can obtain. The base was made of wood, saturated

in paraffin. The mineral cup is a brass cap from a cartridge fuse. The

upright was made of a piece of copper, ¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. long, and is

fastened to the base by an old-battery binding post. The spring which

supports the cat whisker is made of a strip of copper, ¹⁄₃₂ in. by ³⁄₁₆

in. wide. The cat whisker is soldered to the spring, and the spring

is bolted to the upright. The setscrew, which regulates the pressure

of the cat whisker upon the mineral, works in a nut, soldered over

a hole in the top of the upright. The cat whisker is made of No. 22

gauge bare copper wire. The connection between the cup and the battery

binding post, at the front edge, is made on the under side of the

base.--Charles Brinkmann, Chicago, Ill.

A Wire-Screen Pincushion

[Illustration: Pins Placed in This Durable Desk Pincushion Arrange

Themselves in Vertical Position, Head Up]

Pins placed in a pincushion like that shown automatically arrange

themselves vertically, head up, so that they may be removed handily

when needed. The pincushion is durable, and a useful device for the

desk. It is made by binding two layers of ordinary screen wire between

wooden frames, mounted on a wooden base, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide,

and 3¹⁄₂ in. long. The frame can be finished neatly, and made of hard

wood to match other desk fittings.--D. J. McKean, San Francisco, Calif.

Straightening Sheets of Paper

When a sheet of paper, a drawing, or a blueprint becomes curved or

warped, it is annoying to use the sheet unless it is straightened.

An easy method of doing this is to lay the sheet flat on the edge of

a drawing board or table and draw it down over the edge, the hand

pressing down on the paper, stretching it out. This, repeated several

times, will soon smooth a much-curled sheet.

Emergency Tension Weight Used on Typewriter

If the band that draws the typewriter carriage should break, the

operator can continue to write until proper repairs are made by a

temporary substitute for the spring tension. Tie a string to the

carriage, where it will not become entangled in the mechanism, and

attach a weight, about equal to the pull of the spring, to the string.

Let the weight hang over the edge of the desk, to the left of the

machine. It will pull the carriage along, as does the usual tension

device.

Improvised Penholder Made with Pencil and Clip

[Illustration]

An ordinary pencil clip can be used to make a practical penholder by

sliding it to the end of the pencil, as shown, and inserting the pen

under it. The tension of the clip holds the pen firmly, and provides a

serviceable holder, for emergency use, or even for permanent use, where

a pen and pencil combined are desired.--Raymond B. Rogers, Portland,

Ore.

Generator Attachment Provides Current for Bicycle Lamp

Rigging up a small dynamo on the bicycle is a simple job, the dynamo

being belted from a friction pulley, making connections with the rubber

tire of the rear wheel, as shown. Fig. 1 shows the make-up of the head

lamp. It is composed of a tin cylinder, grooved at one end to hold the

lens; at the other end of the cylinder is fastened a ³⁄₄-in. wooden

disk, to which the lamp socket is fixed. Clamp straps hold the lamp

on the fork frame. The small lamp, inserted in the socket, holds the

reflector in place.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

The Dynamo is Operated by a Belt Arrangement Connected to the Rear

Wheel, and Supplies Light, and, if Desired, Operates a Horn]

The dynamo-driving arrangement is shown in Fig. 2, and detailed in

Fig. 3. A leather belt fits in the groove side of the wooden pulley.

The swinging pulley arm supports and clamps the driving arrangement. A

spring holds the friction wheel against the tire, and to release it,

the “off” lever is used. A small direct-current dynamo serves well,

and may also be used to operate the horn and whistle.--G. F. Thompson,

Pittsburgh, Pa.

Eccentric Drawbolt Stops Rattling of Door

[Illustration: The Eccentric End on the Drawbolt Holds the Door Firmly,

Preventing Rattling]

A simple method of preventing a bolted door from rattling, by forcing

it against the doorstop, or a weather strip, by means of an eccentric

filed on the socket end of the bolt, is shown in the sketch. The bolt

is fitted closely to the door and casing, and, when the bolt is turned

so that the eccentric end is in action, the door is forced firmly

against the doorstop.--C. H. Chambers, Schenectady, N. Y.

Handy Kink in Addressing Mailing Tubes

[Illustration]

The job of addressing a large number of mailing tubes is an awkward

one, unless the tube is set so that its upper edge is on a level with

the hand. A convenient method of doing this, and a kink which is

permanently useful where mailing tubes are to be addressed from time to

time, is to arrange ordinary coat hooks at the side of the desk near

the front corner, as shown. The tube is placed on the hooks, its upper

edge even with the top of the desk, making the writing of the address

as handy as in writing ordinarily.

A Flash-Light Egg-Candling Device

[Illustration]

A pocket electric flash light can be easily used for testing eggs if

equipped in the following manner: Take an ordinary tin funnel and cut

off the spout so the small end will fit snugly over the lens of the

flash light. Prepare the larger end of the funnel to accommodate a

tin-can cover, so the cover will fit tight. Cut out the face of the

cover, leaving a ¹⁄₂-in. rim all around, and file the edge. Then cut

a 1-in. hole in a piece of felt, place it over the large end of the

funnel, and force the cover over it. This may be quickly slipped on and

off the flash light and carried in the pocket. The egg to be tested is

placed on the felt, over the opening, and the lamp held vertically, the

operator looking down on the egg.

Simple Arrangement for Releasing Camera Shutter from Distance