preferred, though they are more difficult to work; two, 10 ft. long, 9
in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and the other, 10 ft. long, 15 in. wide,
and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. Place the first two boards side by side and fasten
them with cleats, the first cleat being placed 18 in. from the end to
be used for the pins. The cleats should be of ³⁄₈ or ⁷⁄₈-in. material
and cut as long as the upper board is wide, or 15 in. These are placed
on top of the lower boards, or between the two. By placing the first
one 18 in. from the end, clearance is obtained for the trap A. The
other board is placed on the cleats and fastened, after it has been
centrally located, with screws from the under side. The screws must not
come through or the surface of the upper board be marred in any way so
that the balls cannot roll freely. The difference in width of the lower
board and the upper one provides 1¹⁄₂-in. clearance on each side as
grooves for the return of the balls.
Inclose the alley with boards, 3 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, to the
point B, and from there around the pin end with boards, 6 in. wide.
The upper board should be cut to such a length that a space of 2 in.
at the end C will be provided. Into this space is fitted a block of
wood, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, having its upper surface slightly pitched
toward the sides of the alley to start the balls back to the front of
the board. From the ends of this block two strips, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, are
fitted into the side grooves, from D to E, on an incline, to return the
ball after each shot.
The location of each pin is marked on the end of the upper board, and
small holes are drilled just large enough to admit pieces of stout
cord, like a fishline, to pass through freely. The pins are made of
hard wood, carefully balanced, so that one end will not be heavier than
the other. The lower end of each pin is drilled to make a recess, F,
in which the cord is fastened with a screw or nail. Holes are bored
through the bottom board, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter, to correspond to the 10
small holes made through the upper one. Lead weights of about 2 oz. are
fitted in the holes and attached to the strings from the pins. The ends
of the weights should extend about ¹⁄₂ in. from the under side of the
alley.
Attach a board, 18 in. square, with hinges to the end of the alley
so that it will hang under the weights. A stout cord is run along
the under side of the alley to the front end through screw eyes, and
attached to the swinging board. By letting the board swing down the
weights are released and they draw the pins into a standing position,
accurately set for the next break. When set, the line is drawn, and the
swinging board pushes the weights up and releases the pins.
The balls used are made of hard wood, and, if it is not desirable to
make them, they can be purchased from a toy store. They are 1¹⁄₄ in. in
diameter. Each player has three shots. The ball is placed on the spot
G and shot with a billiard cue, the object being to knock down as many
pins as possible; the score is kept as in bowling.
Horses can be made of metal and wood, as shown, for holding the alley
at the proper height. The alley can be used on a large table, but
horses are more convenient.
The Glass-and-Hat Trick
The effect of this trick is as follows: The performer first exhibits a
small table, about 2 ft. square, the top of which is covered with black
velvet. He requests the loan of a Derby hat and a handkerchief, then
takes an ordinary glass, filled with water, and places it on the table
top, covers it with the handkerchief, and sets the hat on top of the
glass. He then withdraws a short distance, and at a command, the glass
appears to pass slowly through both handkerchief and hat until the hat
rests on the table top. The hat is then taken up and is handed to the
owner, who finds the glass of water in the hat.
While this is seemingly impossible, the effect can be easily
accomplished and the necessary apparatus can be made up cheaply if a
table of suitable size can be had, although a kitchen table may be used
if so desired, but a table about 2 ft. square is preferred, because
it can be easily carried. The table is prepared as follows: Procure a
block of wood, about 2 in. square and 1¹⁄₂ in. thick, and glue it to
the under side of the table in the center. Bore a ¹⁄₄-in. hole through
both the table top and the block of wood. The top of the table must be
covered with some black cloth, such as velvet. Using the hole bored
as a center, cut out a piece of the table top to correspond with the
diameter of the glass to be used, and about ¹⁄₈ in. deep, fit into this
depression a piece of round sheet brass. Procure a ¹⁄₄-in. rod, about 6
in. long, and fasten the brass disk to the end of it so that the disk
will fit into the round depression when the rod is run through the
hole in the table top and block. The other, or lower, end of the rod
is filed flat, and a small hole is drilled through it, the edges being
smoothed to receive a thread. The top of the brass disk is covered with
the same material as is used for covering the table top. This will
make it appear to be one piece covering the table top. Fasten a strong
black thread to one corner of the table top on the under side, and run
it through the hole drilled through the end of the rod, then over a
small window-curtain roller fastened into the opposite corner of the
table top, where the thread is run down a table leg and through another
pulley out under a rug or the floor to an assistant where the thread
will not be seen. The metal disk can then be controlled without any
apparent power. If the rod extends under the table too far, tape some
velvet or fancy cloth around the table edge to cover it.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: Apparently the Glass Filled with Water Passes Up through
the Crown of the Hat and is Taken from it When the Trick is Completed]
To begin the trick, the performer exhibits the glass of water, then
sets it on the table just back of the disk, and in placing the borrowed
handkerchief it is put on the disk rather than the glass. As the
handkerchief is held in front of the glass the assistant pulls the disk
up; thus the handkerchief is placed on the disk and the glass of water
is left uncovered just behind it. The performer then starts to put the
borrowed hat on the glass, crown up, and when, seeing his mistake, he
apologizes, turns the hat over, and in doing so picks up the glass of
water and places it in the hat. The hat is then set on the disk with
the crown down. In turning the hat the glass is taken up with the first
two fingers of the right hand. When the hat is raised, the glass is
also raised with it, and while doing this the hat is slanted so as to
hide the glass. In turning the hat over, the glass is brought into it.
This is quite hard to explain, but a little practice will enable the
performer to make no mistake. When the hat is placed on the disk the
assistant slowly lets the disk down. It is very necessary to let the
hat down slowly, as a sudden jerk is apt to tumble the hat over and
spoil it as well as the trick. When the hat comes to rest on the table
top, it is removed and handed to the owner with the glass of water in
it.
Wire-Mesh Support for Flower Centerpiece
[Illustration]
Pansies, violets, or other short-stemmed flowers cannot easily be
shown to advantage in a table centerpiece unless properly supported.
By placing a frame of wire mesh in the dish, as shown in the sketch,
the stems of the flowers may be set in the openings, giving a neat and
effective display.--Victor Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.
False Bottom for Emptying Wastebasket
[Illustration]
In order to avoid handling paper and other material which sometimes
sticks in a wastebasket, I arranged a false bottom in the receptacle,
as shown in the sketch. A hole was cut in the bottom of the basket and
a square board, nearly as large as the bottom, was fitted over it, and
a leather handle provided. The basket may be emptied quickly by forcing
out the false bottom, without the hands touching the contents.--Harold
Laughlin, Reading, Michigan.
Making Use of Refrigerator in Winter
[Illustration]
By fitting a 3-in. pipe into the lower part of a refrigerator so that a
draft of cool air from outdoors is available in cold weather, it may be
used without ice for a considerable part of the year. The top is left
open slightly, and a piece of cheesecloth is tied over the outside end
of the pipe, to prevent dust from entering. A tin shutter is placed
on the inside of the refrigerator to close the pipe in extremely cold
weather. This arrangement has proved quite satisfactory for the winter
storage of food.--R. R. Dowsley, Prescott, Canada.
Inkwell Base Made from Fuse Socket
[Illustration]
Workers in the munitions industry frequently devise small useful or
ornamental objects in imitation of, or from, discarded parts on which
they work. The inkwell shown in the sketch was made from a rejected
fuse socket of a shrapnel shell. It was fitted with a glass container
and fastened into a wooden base.
Valve-Bottom Pail for Dipping Water
[Illustration]
An ordinary pail may be converted into a convenient device for dipping
water by fitting a valve into the bottom, as shown in the sketch.
Fasten a piece of soft leather to the bottom of a block, 3 in. square,
and fix this to the bottom of the bucket by means of a small hinge.
By pushing the bucket bottom down into the water, the latter rises
up through the valve until the bucket is full. By lifting it the
valve is closed. This device fitted to a tall milk pail is especially
convenient.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
A Shoe-Polishing Strop
It is awkward to shine one’s shoes with a long strip of cloth as is
done by a shoe shiner to produce a high polish. An effective substitute
method is to suspend from the wall a strip of cloth, about 5 in. wide,
doubled to a length of 30 in., and rub the shoes on it before putting
them on.
A Magic Cabinet
The performer calls the attention of his audience to a cabinet mounted
on short legs and having doors in the front, back, and top. The back
door is opened, then the top and front, and an arm is thrust through
to show that the cabinet is empty and without double doors or double
walls. The performer also puts his wand beneath the box to show that
there is no deception there. The doors are then closed, except the
top, and reaching down, he takes out any number of articles, from
handkerchiefs to rabbits, and then the front door is opened to show the
box is empty, but upon closing the front door again, he is still able
to produce articles until the supply is exhausted. Wonderful though
this trick may appear, it is very simple, and if a person is handy with
tools, it can be made from lumber taken from a packing box.
To make the cabinet, nail together, in the shape of a rectangle, two
pieces, 16 in. long, 14 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and two pieces 14
in. square and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. To one of the latter pieces fasten four
legs, one at each corner. In the opposite piece, or the top, make an
opening in the center, 8 in. square. This opening is covered with a
door 8¹⁄₂ in. square, supplied with a knob to open it easily. A piece,
16 in. long and 14 in. wide, with an attached knob, is hinged to the
front, for a door; also another for the back hinged in the same manner
and with a knob. In the back there is a cutout made, 9 in. long and 7
in. wide, in the center. In this opening a swinging box is hung to hold
the articles taken from the cabinet. The swinging box is made of two
pieces, 9 in. long and 7 in. wide, and two pieces about ¹⁄₂ in. larger
each way, nailed together on ends, cut triangular. This box is hinged
in the opening so that it will swing in or out as desired and show a
panel on either side of the door. The front door should have a panel
nailed on each side of equal size, to make both doors appear alike.
After loading all the things desired to be shown in the triangular box,
start the trick by pushing this box into the cabinet and showing the
outside; then open the back, and in doing so, push the triangular box
out as the door swings back and away from the audience. This shows that
there is nothing to be seen but the panel. Open the front door and top,
and the cabinet will appear empty. Close both front and back doors, and
in making this change, push the triangular box in, and begin to take
the things out through the top door.
[Illustration: Open the Front Door and Top of the Cabinet and It will
Appear Empty]
By careful construction the cabinet can be made so that the doors will
open freely and the triangular box swing easily so that it will not be
seen in operating it. With a clever performer this trick is without an
equal, as many variations can be made in the performance.
Countersinking a Hole Smoothly
When a hole in a piece of steel, iron, or brass is being countersunk,
the drill usually chatters, making the countersink rough. Where a
smooth hole is required, it is best to make the countersink first
and drill the hole afterward. By doing so the hole will be perfectly
smooth.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
Receptacle for Shellac Varnish
[Illustration]
A simple, inexpensive, and practical pot and cover for holding shellac
varnish in the pattern shop, or at home, is shown in the sketch. It
consists of a base made of wood having in the center a counterbore into
which a glass tumbler, or other container, is fitted. For the cover
an ordinary flowerpot is used, fitting down over a ring on the base.
An accumulation of shellac around the top cannot come in contact with
the cover. The brush extends through the hole in the bottom of the
flowerpot and is held suspended by means of a leather washer resting on
it.--Contributed by J. D. Roberts, Kenosha, Wisconsin.
Homemade Vaporizer
[Illustration]
A simple vaporizer which can be used by designers to project their
colors in a fluid spray, or by housekeepers to disinfect or perfume
their apartments, can be made in the following manner: Two goose quills
are forced through holes in a cork at right angles to each other, as
shown. Place the vertical quill in a bottle containing the fluid to be
sprayed and by blowing through the horizontal quill a very effective
spray will be produced.--Contributed by Hazel Kolar, Maywood, Ill.
* * * * *
¶Old wringer clamps, used for holding the wringer to the tub, are
very handy around a workbench.
Tooth Powder Used on Tracing Cloth
Tooth powder is an excellent substitute for the powders which are sold
for the purpose of preparing the glossy surface of tracing linen to
receive ink. The gritty element removes the excess gloss which prevents
the ink from taking hold. A second dusting with talcum powder makes a
perfect surface for inking in.
A Small Gas Furnace
[Illustration]
A small gas furnace for melting small quantities of gold, silver, or
other metals, can be easily made as follows: Procure a cylinder of
stovepipe iron of the desired size, say 4¹⁄₂ or 5 in. in diameter, and
6 in. long. Turn in the edge of one end so that it will hold loosely a
disk of iron of the same thickness as the cylinder, to form the bottom.
Punch ¹⁄₈-in. holes, about 1 in. apart, all over the cylinder and the
bottom. This is to allow for the escape of moisture and air. Attach
three legs to the sides with rivets, evenly spaced so as to raise
the bottom 4 in. In the side of the cylinder cut a hole, 1¹⁄₄ in. in
diameter, its center being 1¹⁄₂ in. from the bottom. Select a glass
bottle whose diameter is 1 or 1¹⁄₂ in. less than that of the cylinder.
Make a putty of fire clay, and add about five per cent of plaster of
Paris, and also add about a teaspoonful of vinegar, to prevent a too
rapid setting. Place a mass of the putty in the bottom of the cylinder
and press in the bottle after its surfaces have been well greased.
The bottle should be well centered in the cylinder. Press the bottle
well down, so that its bottom is on a level with the lower edge of the
hole in the side. Fill in the putty to form the sides, tamping it
well all around the bottle, and build it up a little above the metal
of the sides, carefully smoothing off the edge. With the fingers, or a
spatula of some kind, cut out the putty in the hole to form an opening,
³⁄₄ in. in diameter. Allow the putty to set for more than an hour, and
then with a circular, or twisting, motion remove the bottle. To prevent
a vacuum in the bottom that will prevent removing the bottle easily,
puncture the putty that lies on the disk with a hatpin, to allow the
air to pass.
A few places will be found where the putty has not filled in properly,
and these should be patched up while the filling is yet soft. The clay
will probably shrink after standing for a time, and should be pressed
out against the sides while in a plastic state. When dry, the furnace
is ready for use.
In furnaces of this kind the jet of a large gas blowtorch is to be
used. If a standard is rigged up to hold the blowtorch, it will be much
easier for the operator. The jet from the pipe is thrown in the hole at
the side and a crucible is placed in the furnace. It is well to make a
cover similar to the body of the furnace with a hole in the center a
little larger than the hole in the side.
A more efficient furnace can be made with two holes in the
side, opposite each other, for using a double jet from
blowtorches.--Contributed by James H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.
The Magic Clock Hand
The hand, or pointer, is the only working part needed to perform the
trick. A clockface can be drawn on any piece of white paper, and a pin
stuck in its center on which the hand revolves. The hand A is cut from
a piece of sheet brass, and may be in any form or design desired, but
it must balance perfectly on the axle, which passes through a ¹⁄₄-in.
hole in the center, or else the magic part will fail. The illustration
shows a good design with dimensions that will cause it to balance well;
however, this can be adjusted by removing some metal from the end that
is heavier with a file or tinner’s snips, or a bit of solder may be
stuck to the lighter end.
[Illustration: Design of a Hand That will Balance Well and the Parts
for Its Axle]
A disk, B, is cut from a piece of sheet brass, 1¹⁄₈ in. in diameter,
twelve ³⁄₃₂-in. holes are drilled at equal distance apart near the
edge, and a ¹⁄₄-in. hole is drilled in its center. This disk is
soldered to the hand where both ¹⁄₄-in. holes will coincide. It is
necessary to procure two washers, C and D, that are embossed, or
raised, in the center, and about 1¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. These can be
purchased from a dealer in curtain rods, the rod parts wanted being
the washers used on the ends. A careful mechanic can raise the center
portion of a brass disk by beating it over a hole with a ball-peen
hammer.
One of the washers, C, has a spring, E, soldered at one end, and the
other carries a small projection that will engage the holes in the
disk, B. The projection can be made by driving the metal out with a
center punch, set on the opposite side.
The washer D is provided with a lead weight, F, and a ¹⁄₄-in. stud, G,
is soldered in the center. The stud has a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole drilled through
its center for the pin axle. The weight is made by filling the washer
with melted lead, which when cold is removed and sawn in two. One piece
is then stuck in the washer with shellac. The stud is ⁷⁄₈ in. long
with the upper part, about ¹⁄₄ in. in length, filed, or turned down,
smaller, and threaded. Just below the thread, or on the shoulder, the
body is filed square to fit a square hole filed in the face washer C
carrying the spring. This square hole and stud end are necessary in
order that both washers may turn together.
[Illustration: A Number is Mentioned and the Performer Gives the
Washers a Twist to Set the Concealed Weight so That the Hand When Hung
on the Dial will be Drawn to Point Out the Number Selected]
The dial can be made of a piece of thick cardboard, or thin wood, with
the numbers from 1 to 12 painted on, like a clockface. A pin, ¹⁄₁₆ in.
in diameter, or an ordinary large pin, is run through the center so
that it will project on the face side on which the hand is to revolve.
The washer D with the weight is placed on the rear side of the hand
with the fixed stud run through the hole in the center of the hand;
then the washer C is placed on the square part of the stud, and the nut
J, which should have a round, knurled edge, is turned on the threads.
This will cause the projection on the spring E to engage one of the
small holes on the disk B. In turning the two washers, C and D, with
the thumb and first finger of the right hand, the projection snapping
into the holes of the disk B can be felt. The hand is placed on the pin
of the clockface, and the washers are turned so that the weight will
make it point to 12. Scratch a mark on the hand at H, also mark a line
on the front washer at this point. These lines are necessary, as they
enable the performer to know how many holes to snap the spring over to
have the hand point at any desired number.
By reversing the hand it will point to a different number; for
instance, if set for 8 and put on the pin backward, it will point to 4,
and so on, with other settings. The dial can be held in the hand, hung
on a stand, or fastened to a wall, and can be used to tell the day of
the week, time of day, cards selected, etc. The audience can call for
any number on the clockface, and the setting of the disks is an easy
matter while holding the hand, or pointer, in the hands, so that it
cannot be detected.
Uses for Steel Wool
The use of steel wool in place of sandpaper when finishing off new or
old work, when preparing it for varnishing or other finishes, will be
found very helpful. It is put up in small packages and can be obtained
in several grades of fineness. It is especially useful when removing
old finishes, in and around moldings, etc., since it conforms to
irregular shapes as sandpaper will not. Put on a pair of heavy canvas
gloves when using steel wool. They will keep the fine slivers out of
the skin. These gloves will also be found useful when varnishing and
painting.
Turning Long Wood Rods
To turn a long wood rod of small diameter is not an easy job for
the amateur, and a suitable tool for the purpose is seldom found in
the amateur’s outfit. The tool illustrated can be easily made from
materials that are always at hand. A block of hard wood, A, is first
provided, and a hole, B, large enough to admit the square strip from
which the rod is to be turned, is bored in the end, whereupon the hole
C, which has the diameter of the finished rod, is bored through the
block. The hole D is next bored at right angles to the axis of the hole
C, and so placed that its edge just touches the outer edge of the hole
C. This hole is to receive an ordinary gouge, and must be of such size
as to receive the gouge snugly.
[Illustration: A Block of Wood Fashioned to Hold an Ordinary Gouge for
Turning Small Wood Rods]
The gouge is ground back far enough on the under side to make the
cutting edge level with its back, and then beveled off on the inside to
a sharp edge. The gouge E is placed in the hole D with the cutting edge
on the center line, as shown, and held in place with a wood plug, F. A
little soap applied to the bore C will prevent binding.
To use the tool, a strip of wood is pointed sufficiently to allow
it to enter the hole C a short distance. The strip may be rotated
by holding it in the chuck of a lathe while the tool is held in the
hand, using the handle of the gouge to prevent its turning with the
stick.--Contributed by J. A. Brearley, Washington, D. C.
Hanging Ladder for a Hatchway
[Illustration]
A handy ladder to swing from a hatchway can be made of a solid plank,
as shown. Cut the plank to the length desired and saw notches on each
side to form steps. With a solid hook to fasten it in a similar hook in
the ceiling, at the edge of the opening, it makes a novel yet practical
ladder.--Contributed by Victor Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.
An Oilcan Stopper
An empty cartridge shell makes an excellent stopper for an oilcan in
case the original stopper becomes lost. The cap in the shell is removed
and the hole enlarged with the tang of a file so that a leather thong
can be inserted. A knot is tied in the thong on both sides of the base,
to prevent the thong from slipping either way. The end of the thong is
tied to the bail of the can.
Enamel for Steel Fishing Rods
Make a thin solution of shellac in alcohol and add a teaspoonful of
Venice turpentine to each half pint, and the same quantity of lampblack
for a black enamel. Scrape the bare spots on the rod and heat it
slightly, to melt the shellac for the first coat. Use a fine brush and
apply two or three coats, which will give a smooth, glossy, and elastic
surface that will not scale or crack.
Bench Receptacles for Small Articles
When working with small, round articles, such as ball bearings, it
often happens that they roll off the bench and are lost. To remedy
this, I bored several holes, each 2 in. in diameter, in a convenient
place in the workbench top, making them about ³⁄₈ in. deep, for the
different articles. To make the small parts easily accessible the holes
were filled in with thick paste made of plaster of Paris which was
molded into a saucer shape. After the plaster became thoroughly dry the
inner surface was painted over with white enamel. This made them easily
cleaned with a damp cloth. Any article dropped into these depressions
will roll to the center, and as the sides are curved it can be easily
picked up when it is wanted.--Contributed by Frank L. Matter, Portland,
Oregon.
Ruler with Round and Flat Edges
[Illustration: The Molding Presents a Round Edge for a Pen and a Flat
One for a Pencil]
Picking up a smooth piece of ordinary wood molding, intending to use
it as a ruler, I found that its shape, A, combined the properties of
the round ruler and flat ruler, as well as assuming the third position
D. A simple reverse changes the edge from a round to a sharp or flat,
accommodating it to a pen or pencil, as shown. Such a piece of molding
can be procured from a local lumber dealer.--Contributed by James M.
Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
A Trouser Hanger
[Illustration: The Trousers can be Easily Hung on the Cross Bars to
Keep the Crease in Them]
A wood frame, similar to a picture frame, is made up and hinged to the
inner side of the closet door with its outer edge hung on two chains.
The inside of the frame is fitted with cross bars. After hanging the
trousers on the cross bars the frame is swung up against the door where
it is held with a hook. Several pairs of trousers can be hung on the
frame, and when flat against the door it takes up very little space.
The trousers are kept flat so that they will hold their crease.
An Emergency Alcohol Stove
If a person starts on a picnic with a ketchup bottle full of wood
alcohol placed in the lunch basket and suddenly discovers that the
alcohol stove was left at home, it is not necessary to walk back to get
it; just unscrew the cover of the ketchup bottle and bunch a piece of
cloth large enough to fill the top, soak it thoroughly in the alcohol
and light it. The metal top is just the right size to make a hot flame.
* * * * *
¶A box 8¹⁄₄ in. square and 4 in. deep will hold one gallon.
[Illustration]
Fireside Dissolving Views
BY SUSAN E. W. JOCELYN
To those interested in amateur theatricals the following method of
showing dissolving views in the fire-light of pipe dreams and mind
pictures will be appreciated.
A frame made of light material, A, Fig. 1, covered with red cloth and
chalked to represent brick, is placed in the center of the stage. The
central opening, representing the fireplace, must be rather large,
about 12 ft. wide and 7 ft. high, because it is at the back of this
opening that the pictures are produced. From the chimney back, 2¹⁄₂ ft.
behind this opening, the sides, B, of the fireplace slope outward to
the imitation brickwork. The walls of the fireplace are covered with
sheet asbestos, for safety, and painted black; then ashes are rubbed
on the chimney back and scattered over the hearthstone, to make the
appearance more realistic.
The chimney back is removable, in fact it is one of a series of a half
dozen screens, the others being behind it, the proper manipulation of
which, together with changing lights, gives to the audience the effect
of dissolving views of the dreams that are being acted out directly
behind the screens.
[Illustration: The Tableau is Played Out behind the Screens and is
Dimly Seen through the Fireplace Opening When the Lights are Properly
Controlled and the Screens Drawn Slowly]
The screens are carried in a light frame, the top of which is shown
in Fig. 2, with position of runs. The runs are made of narrow strips
of wood, fastened to the under side of two end pieces, for the screen
frames to slide in. Corresponding strips are placed in a suitable
position on the floor, to keep the screens steady in sliding. The
frames holding the run pieces are longer than the chimney back is wide,
and the upper one is placed as high as the brickwork, the shelf, or
mantel, over the fireplace being an extension of the upper part, or
frame. The screens are in pairs, as shown in Fig. 3, each one extending
to the center of the fireplace. They consist of light frames covered
with black mosquito netting. The upper and lower sides of the frames
are sandpapered smooth so that they will move easily in the runs. The
vertical sides of a pair of screen frames that meet in the center of
the fireplace are made of one strand of wire, instead of wood, so
that their motion will not be noticeable. To complete the apparatus,
andirons and a gas log are needed in the fireplace, and whatever
arrangements are necessary for the action of the views to be shown
behind the screens.
If gas is available, an asbestos log is used in the fireplace, and it
has a connecting pipe to the footlights, where four or five jets are
located on the floor just back of the screens. A narrow board, painted
black, is placed in front of the lights, which should be wide enough
to conceal the lights from the spectators and reflect the light on the
tableau. If the light is thrown above the imitation brickwork, then it
should be made higher.
In most halls, and some houses, electric lights are used instead of
gas, and in this case ordinary logs are piled in the fireplace on the
andirons, and one or more red globes are introduced to produce the
effect of glowing embers. The gas is more effective, however, because
it is not easy to get a gradual rise and fall in the glow of electric
lights. Four or five footlights are sufficient.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
FIG. 1
FIG. 3
Frames Made of Light Material and Covered with Black Mosquito Netting
Serve as Screens Which are Operated in Runs Located behind the
Fireplace That is Made Up in a Like Manner and Penciled to Represent
Brick]
The working of the dissolving views can be best explained by an
illustration from “Reveries of a Bachelor.” The gas log is turned
low to make the stage dimly lighted, and the tableau to be shown is
all arranged behind the chimney back and the screens. There should
be barely sufficient light to reveal the bachelor on the hearthstone
smoking in the gloaming. Then the chimney back almost imperceptibly
parts, that is, the screens of the first pair are gradually pulled
apart, the footlights and gas log are gradually turned on, and the
tableau behind the fireplace, being more brightly illuminated, is
dimly seen through the series of screens. Slowly the successive pairs
of screens are drawn aside, and the tableau becomes quite distinct.
Then the process is reversed, the screens are gradually replaced,
the lights are lowered and the dream fades away; brightens and fades
again; brightens and fades, till gone entirely. The screens are always
slowly moving while the tableau is exposed, and this makes the illusory
effect. It is evident that the success of this plan depends principally
on the coördination with which the screens are operated. “Cinderella,”
and many other tales based on the vagaries of the mind and having their
source in glowing embers, can thus be presented.
Imitation-Celluloid Scales and Name Plates
Often the amateur turns out a very workmanlike piece of apparatus,
which only lacks the addition of a scale or name plate to give it a
truly professional appearance. I recently hit upon an excellent method
of making these articles in a manner that will stand considerable wear
and at the same time present a very good appearance. Simply take a
piece of good Bristol board and letter it as desired with waterproof
drawing ink, then apply a coat of clear varnish, such as is used on
bird’s-eye maple furniture. After not less than 24 hours rub lightly
with fine steel wool, wipe clean, and revarnish. Usually two coats are
sufficient, and the last should be rubbed with a soft oily rag dipped
in some abrasive material such as tooth powder, or one of the many
powders used for metal polishing. Finally polish with a little oil, and
the result will be a perfect imitation of celluloid.--Contributed by
John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
Direct View Finder for a Box Camera
Disappointment in the taking of pictures with a small camera is often
caused by the inability of the photographer to obtain an accurate view
of what he is photographing. If, instead of the small view finder on
the camera, the device illustrated is used, a view of the resultant
photograph may be obtained, right side up, and of nearly the same size
as the finished print.
[Illustration: Sight through the Eyepiece for a Direct View of the
Object Photographed, Thus Insuring More Nearly the Accuracy of the
Result]
The distance from the lens of the camera to the front surface of the
plate or film must be determined. In the camera shown this was 4¹⁄₂
in. The distance from the small metal eyepiece, when it is in place on
the box, to the inner side of the opposite end of the box must be made
¹⁄₂ in. shorter than this measurement. This will cause the box to be
shorter than the camera.
The box is constructed so that the sides extend above the top and
engage the camera. The view-finder eyepiece is made from a flat piece
of sheet metal, laid out as shown, and bent into the desired shape.
It is fixed over the center of the end of the box. The sight hole
must be ¹⁄₃₂ in. in diameter. By sighting through the small opening
in the eyepiece an unobstructed view of the prospective photograph is
obtained.--Contributed by A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont.
Checking a Rip in Tire Tubes
It is often difficult to prevent a small rip in an inner tube of a
tire from becoming longer, even though a patch has been applied. An
effective remedy is to punch a small round hole at each end of the rip
before applying the patch. This stops the tendency to rip farther when
pressure is applied.--Contributed by George H. Holden, Chesterfield,
England.
Protecting Wall Back of Range or Sink
A simple and attractive protection for the wall back of the range
or sink in a kitchen was provided by fixing a piece of plate glass
to the wall by means of round-headed brass screws. The glass may
be washed easily and can be removed when new wall covering is
applied.--Contributed by Jennie E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.
Polishing with a Hand Drill
[Illustration: A Hand Drill Clamped in a Vise and Used to Polish
Round-Head Screws]
There are certain desired effects in polishing metal that can only be
obtained with a true rotary motion. There is no amount of handwork
that will produce a proper finish on the round head of a brass screw.
Therefore, when small pieces of metal are to be shaped up with the file
and polished, simply set them in a three-jaw chuck of a hand drill,
and then clamp the drill in a vise, as shown in the illustration.
Operate the drill with the left hand and hold the file, or emery paper,
with the right, and a finish will be obtained that can in nowise
be distinguished from lathe work. It is surprising how different
round-head brass screws appear when treated in this manner.
Releasing a Parachute from a Kite
[Illustration: Pull In About a Yard of the Kite String and Release It,
Tripping the Parachute]
Parachutes may be released from suspended kites readily by providing
tripping loops on the kite tail, as shown in the illustration. Form a
loop on one end of a piece of cord, and tie the other end to the kite
tail. Make a loop in one end of another piece of cord and tie the other
end to the top of the parachute. Tie a piece of cord around a nail
close to its head and fix this also to the kite tail. Pass one loop
through the other and insert the nail, as shown in the sketch. To trip
the parachute, pull in about a yard of string and release it quickly.
The parachute will trip without fail. The end of the string may be
fastened to a stake driven into the ground or it may be held in the
hand.
A Trick Blotter
An ordinary blotter may be transformed easily so that it will remove
ink completely when applied instead of leaving sufficient to recognize
the script, by steeping it in a solution of oxalic acid. Permit it to
dry after several applications of the acid. It will be the source of
much amusement, and is useful as well.
[Illustration]
Magic Candles Explained
BY CLIFFORD WAYNE
Clever and baffling though it may be, the magic-candle trick may be
performed easily and with professional skill by a person who has made a
few simple preparations. The illustration shows the candles arranged on
a table made of a music stand.
Candles, cigars, or pencils may be used, but for the purpose of this
description the former will be used. The candles are of different
colors but of the same size and weight. The manipulation is as follows:
Exhibit a tube of brass, cardboard, or other suitable material, just
large enough to contain a candle. Then retire from the room, leaving
the tube on the table while one of the spectators selects one of the
candles and places it into the tube, covering the end of the latter
securely with a small cap. The other candles are hidden before the
performer is permitted to return. The trick is to announce the color
of the candle contained in the box by merely passing the hand over it
several times. The box and candle are passed out for inspection and
will bear it if properly prepared.
The secret of the trick is this: The first candle, for example, the
white one, is unprepared. The second, a blue one, has concealed in it,
¹⁄₂ in. from the top, a small piece of magnetized steel. The third
candle, a red one, has a similar bar concealed at the middle; the
fourth, a magnetized bar ¹⁄₂ in. from the bottom, and the fifth candle
has the bar at a point halfway between the middle and the bottom. The
candles are made of wood and the magnets may readily be imbedded in
them. They are made of two pieces glued together like a pencil.
[Illustration: Mysterious Passes over the Concealed Candle are Made and
Its Color Announced]
The performer hides a small compass in his palm. It is held in place
by a wire clip, gripped between the second and third fingers near the
knuckles. A wave of the hand over the tube containing a candle will
affect the compass if any candle other than the white one is used.
Its needle will vibrate when approaching the concealed magnet, and
by determining quickly the position of the magnet, the color may be
announced.
Those who offer guesses usually insist that some electrical device is
used.
Desk Slide in Top of Drawer
Placing a lock lid in the top of a desk drawer provided a writing board
and also gave privacy to the drawer, as shown in the sketch.
[Illustration: The Lid Provides a Writing Slide and Gives Privacy to
the Drawer]
A lady’s desk in a nicely furnished room was used for the telephone
and as the desk was often locked there was no place on which to rest
the instrument or to take notes. The drawer lid, locked with a chest
lock, proved effective. The lid may be moved back so as to expose the
contents of the drawer. It was finished to match the desk.--Contributed
by Victor Labadie, Dallas, Tex.
Repairing a Broken Fly-Screen Frame
[Illustration: Sheet-Metal Braces Used on a Loose Window-Screen Frame
to Make It Rigid]
An old broken fly-screen frame was made quite rigid with the use of
metal braces, cut as shown and fastened with nails to each corner. The
brace was cut from sheet metal, and the edges A and B were cut and bent
at right angles to the main part, with their extreme edges bent over
the frame. These were sufficient to make the frame as rigid as a new
one.
Raising the Temperature of a Room
The temperature of a room may apparently be raised several degrees with
the same expenditure of heat, and greater comfort will result by the
application of a simple principle. In summer a moist day seems warmer
than a dry one though the thermometer registers the same. By permitting
steam to escape from a radiator or keeping a kettle boiling on the
stove, the air is moistened and feels warmer.
A Carbon Electric Water Heater
The water heater illustrated is for use on a 110-volt circuit without
added resistance. It consists of two electrodes which are immersed
directly in the water; and while it is not as artistic as the usual
nickelplated heater, it is usually more economical and has the distinct
advantage that it cannot be burnt out. It may be made as rapid in
action as desired, is inexpensive and very convenient where water is
required for experimental or industrial purposes.
[Illustration]
For the electrodes, procure two ¹⁄₂-in. uncoppered carbons, and drill
a hole in the top of each of these so that feed wires can be attached.
The handle is shaped from a piece of hard wood. The lower end is
hollowed out half round at either side, so that the carbons will fit
in snugly. Four small holes are then drilled through from side to side
for binding wires, and a large hole is made in the center for the feed
wires. Two smaller branch holes are then drilled to join the center
hole, so that the double feed cord may be branched out to reach both
electrodes. The outer edge of the handle is neatly rounded off and
boiled in paraffin so as to render it impervious to moisture.
Remove sufficient insulation from the feed cord to make a good
connection with the carbons. Fish the wire through the handle from the
upper end. Pull each of the two ends pretty well through, so that they
can be securely threaded into the holes previously made in the carbons.
Have the latter quite hot and run in as much solder as possible,
forcing it in with the end of a match as it becomes plastic. Remove all
traces of the flux, and paint the connection with some melted pitch,
taken from the top of a discarded dry cell. The feed cord may then
be pulled up tightly, which will draw the carbons in place. They are
then bound by threading through several strands of copper wire. If the
holes in the wood are slightly countersunk, and two small grooves filed
around each carbon at the right places to let the holding wires in, the
binding feature may be disposed of very neatly.
In some localities the water is so free from all mineral salts that it
will not carry the current freely, which means that the electrodes must
be placed closer together, or else a small pinch of common salt may be
added to the water. Although, in sterilizing instruments, boiling eggs,
or something of that sort, this would be of no advantage, the salt
greatly hastens the boiling.
Preventing Looseness of Drawer Handles
[Illustration]
Drawer handles frequently become loosened and sometimes cause further
annoyance by falling to the floor or becoming lost, because the bolt
fastening, as shown in the sketch, is not secure. This may be avoided
by inserting a rubber band between the head of the bolt and the
drawer front. When the knob is drawn up tightly the pressure of the
rubber band prevents it from becoming loosened.--Contributed by O. F.
Germaine, Akron, Ohio.
An Electrical Dancer
The modification of the well-known mechanical dancer shown in the
illustration is based on the principle of the electric bell. While the
amusing antics of the mechanical dancer are controlled by the hand, the
manikin shown is actuated by the electromagnet.
[Illustration: When the Contact is Made the Figure Dances]
The mechanism is contained in a box. It consists of an electromagnet
with a soft-iron armature carried by a spring. A wire from the battery
goes to the magnet. The other terminal of the magnet connects with the
armature spring at L1. The spring is bent at a right angle at its other
end, L2, and carries a platform, L3, strengthened by a smaller disk
underneath. The dancer performs upon this platform.
A contact spring, S, is carried by the armature spring. A contact
screw, C, is adjustable in its contact with the spring S. A wire runs
from the contact screw to the binding post B, to which the other
battery wire is connected.
The current keeps the platform in constant vibration, causing the
dancer to “dance.” By means of the screw C, the action of the current
may be varied, and the “dancing” will vary correspondingly.
The figure is made of wood with very loose joints and is suspended so
that the feet barely touch the platform.--Contributed by Edward C.
Connelly, Wilkesbarre, Pa.
Child’s Swing Built of Pipes in Narrow Space
[Illustration: This Substantial Swing Guards the Youngsters from Injury
by Brushing against the Brick Walls]
A narrow space between two city houses was used to erect a swing, as
detailed in the illustration. A piece of 2-in. iron pipe, A, was cut
1 ft. longer than the space between the walls. Two pieces of 2¹⁄₂-in.
pipe and a 2¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₄-in. tee, as shown in the detail, was
slipped over the 2-in. pipe, which was built into the walls. A 1¹⁄₄-in.
pipe, B, 20 ft. long, bent as shown, was joined to the tee, and a seat,
C, was attached. The construction of the seat is shown in detail, being
fixed to the wooden part with washers, nuts, and a threaded nipple, D.
A cushion and a removable safety bar, E, were also features. This swing
is safer than one of rope, and will stand much greater wear.--James N.
Reed, San Francisco, Calif.
Door Bumpers Raise Height of Chair
Four wooden door bumpers, of the rubber-tipped knob type, fastened to
the lower ends of the legs of one of the kitchen chairs, make an almost
indispensable high chair, which will bring the table work to a more
comfortable height than the ordinary chair does. The young child also
will appreciate such a chair at the dining table. When it is no longer
needed, the knobs can be unscrewed quickly.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia,
Pa.
A Homemade Hawaiian Ukulele
BY S. H. SAMUELS
The one-string banjo, the cigar-box guitar, and similar vaudeville
favorites are giving way to the tantalizing ukulele, and the home
mechanic, to be up to date in his musical craftsmanship, must fall
in line. The size of this instrument makes it especially suited to
the cigar-box type of body construction, as detailed in the several
sketches and shown in the photograph reproduced. This neat ukulele was
made at a cost of 30 cents, by careful selection of materials from the
shop scrap stock.
[Illustration: This Cigar-Box Ukulele Cost the Maker 80 Cents, and
Affords Him the Pleasures of a More Expensive One]
A cigar box of good-quality Spanish cedar, about 2¹⁄₂ by 6 by 9 in., as
shown in Fig. 1, is used for the body. Remove the paper carefully, so
as not to mar the surface, soaking it if necessary. Take it apart, and
if the nail holes are too numerous, or broken out, trim off the edges.
Fit the parts of the body together, as shown in Fig. 2, the top and
bottom pieces resting against the side and end pieces, and the latter
between the sides. Cut the 2¹⁄₂-in. hole in the top piece, as shown,
3³⁄₄ in. from the neck end. To reinforce the body make strips A, ¹⁄₄
in. square, and fit them to be glued into the corners at the top and
bottom. Make strips B, ¹⁄₄ by ⁵⁄₈ by 4¹⁄₂ in., and glue them under
the top and on the bottom as indicated in Fig. 2. The final assembling
and gluing of these parts, using animal glue, should be done after the
bridge C is in place, and the other parts are made. The bridge is of
hard wood hollowed underneath the notched edge, as detailed, and is
fitted with a metal string contact.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 3
FIG. 2
To Keep in the Fashion in His Musical Craftsmanship, the Home Mechanic
may Make a Cigar-Box Ukulele as Detailed]
Spanish cedar or mahogany is suitable for the neck, detailed in Fig.
3. A single piece is best, but the extension for the pegs and the
wider end at the body may be joined and glued to the main portion of
the neck. Dowels should then be used to reinforce the joints. The
outline of the parts of the neck are shown in detail in Fig. 3. In the
sectional view at the right, the shape of the neck at the thinnest and
thickest parts is shown by the two upper curved, dotted lines. The nut
D is made of mahogany, walnut, or other hard wood, the grain extending
lengthwise, and the notches for the strings spaced as shown.
The making and spacing of the frets must be done very carefully. They
are of aluminum, brass and other metals being suitable also. Make the
frets ¹⁄₁₆ by ³⁄₁₆ in. and cut grooves ¹⁄₈ in. deep for them. The
spacing of the frets is determined as follows, a standard practice: The
distance from the metal string-contact on the bridge to the nut should
be measured carefully. The first fret, near the head, is ¹⁄₁₈ of this
distance from the nut, the total length being in this instance, 13 in.
The second fret is set ¹⁄₁₈ the distance from the first fret to the
bridge; the third, ¹⁄₁₈ from the second fret to the bridge, etc. The
frets must fit tightly in the grooves, requiring no special fastening.
The tuning pegs may be bought or made.
In assembling the parts, fasten the end of the body to the neck, with
glue, reinforced by screws. Set its upper edge parallel with the
fingerboard, and so that the latter is flush with the top of the body,
when fitted to it. Assemble the body, without the top, gluing it to
the end, fixed to the neck. When this portion is thoroughly dried, fit
the top into place finally, and glue it. The whole construction is
then cleaned, sandpapered, stained, and shellacked or varnished. The
stringing of the instrument is simple, and the strings may be purchased
in sets.
Homemade Suitcase Extension
[Illustration]
A handy addition to the traveler’s equipment is a suitcase extension
that may be removed when not in use, and folded compactly, inside
of the suitcase if desired. This latter feature is provided for
by arranging the extension to be folded vertically at the middle.
Heavy leather, cloth board covered with strong linen, or canvas of a
suitable color may be used. If cloth board is used it should be cut
the size of the side of the suitcase, and smaller sections hinged to
it at the folds. The leather need not be reinforced if it is fairly
strong. Cut the leather at A, B, C, and D, and arrange it to be folded
on the dotted lines. Rivet guides for the straps, as at E. Fit the
corners with buttons or snaps F, which are locked in position when the
extension is in use. The device slides over the suitcase and may be
drawn tightly against it when empty.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
Putty Deadens Glossy Surfaces in Photography
Attempts to make “close-up” photographs of machinery, or highly
polished objects, often fail because the reflection of light upon the
bright surfaces causes a blur in the photograph. Some photographers use
putty to deaden the gloss. A lump of putty is rubbed over the surface
gently where a brilliant reflection is visible, or the entire surface
is rubbed so that it presents an even, dead finish on the ground glass
of the camera, when focusing.--Ralph W. Tillotson, Erie, Pennsylvania.
Coop for Sitting Hens
[Illustration: Each Hen Has a Compartment, with Plenty of Space for
Exercising]
When several hens are to hatch out settings at the same time,
considerable space can be saved and much convenience afforded by making
a coop as shown in the illustration. It consists of an outer frame
of boards, 1 ft. wide and 6 ft. long, or as long as desired for the
runway. The frame is divided into compartments by boards extending from
end to end, each compartment being for one hen. The frame is placed on
level ground and staked in place. At opposite ends of each compartment
is a hinged cover. The intervening space is covered with wire netting,
with shelter boards placed loosely over it. Under one of the hinged
covers the nest should be placed on the ground, and at the opposite end
food and water are provided. Each hen has plenty of space to exercise
in, and must at least get up for food and water. The individual covers
permit separate examination of the eggs, or feeding of the hens.--F. W.
Buerstatte, Pullman, Wash.
Smoking of Lamp Overcome by Increasing Draft
While sitting in a room around a lamp, a group of workmen discussed the
probable causes for the smoking of an oil lamp. By way of experiment,
holes were punched in the perforated part of the burner, increasing
the draft through the glass chimney. It was then possible to turn the
light up much higher, without the usual deposit of smoke. As a result
of this, several other troublesome lamps were soon remedied.--J. E.
McCormack, Haliburton, Ontario, Can.
Pencil Sharpener Made of Wafer Razor Blade
[Illustration]
This tool combines a knife and a file in one handle, of wood, 7 in.
long. The knife is a single-edged safety-razor blade, clamped to the
handle by two round-head screws. A space, ¹⁄₈ in. deep, under the
blade is allowed for chips, and a piece of a fine file is recessed
into the other end of the handle. To use this sharpener, hold it as a
pocketknife is ordinarily held in whittling. The blade will keep its
edge for a considerable time.--Ralph W. Hills, Madison, Wisconsin.
Device for Sharpening Fiber Phonograph Needles
[Illustration: By Using This Needle-Sharpening Device the Life of
Records is Prolonged]
A practical sharpener for fiber phonograph needles may be made
as follows: A lever handle, A, is cut from heavy sheet metal. A
safety-razor blade, B, is bolted to it, and the metal flap bent over as
indicated. A block, C, is cut so that the upper face makes an angle of
30° with the base, is faced with a metal strip, E. A triangular groove
is cut or filed for the needle G. The lever is hinged, as shown, by
means of a screw. A base, D, may be added. To operate the sharpener,
place a needle in the groove so that a very small portion of the
playing end extends past the face of E, and shear off the end.--C. M.
Hall, St. Louis, Missouri.
Canoe or Boat Stored in Pulley Slings
[Illustration: The Canoe is Stored in the Garage, and Conveniently
Hoisted into the Gable]
A canoe, or small boat, which is taken from the water when not in use,
suffers damage if it is left unprotected in the open. A practical
method of storing it so that it can be taken out quickly is to suspend
it from the roof structure of a small shed, or a garage, by means of
slings. The latter are made of double thicknesses of strong canvas, and
are provided with rings where they join to the lower pulleys of the
hoisting rope and tackle. The cushions, paddles, etc., may be left in
the canoe.--Robert W. Jamison, Mitchell, S. D.
Clod Rake Protects Corn in Cultivating
[Illustration]
Small corn is often injured by lumps of dirt being thrown on it when
cultivating. If these are not removed the corn may grow to one side
or may lie flat on the ground. In order that I need not get off the
cultivator to remove such lumps, I made a rake out of an old fork. The
tines were heated and bent, as shown. An iron rod may be used for the
handle, but the wooden one is light and easy to hold.
Curious Support for Call Bell
[Illustration]
Two highly polished horns fitted into a polished wooden base and banded
with silver form the support for a call bell shown in the illustration.
A tapper, which rests beside the stand, was made of a deer hoof.--James
M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Ordinary Pen Converted into Fountain Pen
[Illustration]
An ordinary penholder and pen point may be easily converted into a
fountain pen, with the aid of a brass paper clip of the kind shown.
The cap is pried off and the prongs straightened. One of the prongs
is cut to suitable length, and the end bent as indicated. It is then
inserted in the penholder, and adjusted to ¹⁄₈ in. from the end of the
pen point. The ink is placed between the bent clip and pen point, from
where it feeds evenly as needed. This kink is helpful when using the
heavier drawing inks, as well as with writing inks.--R. L. Templin,
Champaign, Ill.
Screwdriver Made from Buttonhook
[Illustration]
Losing a sewing-machine screwdriver, I easily made another by cutting
off the hook end of a buttonhook with a chisel. The cut end was placed
upon a piece of iron and, with a hammer, formed into a screwdriver in a
few minutes. The rounded top of the buttonhook makes it convenient to
handle or hang up.--E. M Bierwagen, South Bend, Ind.
Guarding a Camp Chest against Theft
[Illustration]
Unless a camp chest is secured to the ground so that it is difficult
for marauders to carry it away it cannot be left at unguarded camps
without some danger of theft. By fitting the chest, A over stakes, B
set into the ground with crosspieces, D a secure fastening is provided.
Cleats, C, with holes for lag screws, are fitted into the bottom of the
chest, making it easy to remove the fastening when desired. The cleats
are kept in the bottom of the chest when not in use.--K. A. Thompson,
Lexington, Va.
* * * * *
¶By carefully piercing the small end of an eggshell with a large
needle, a funnel for filling very small bottles is provided.
A Toy Horse That Walks
This toy, amusing for the youngsters, and their elders as well, will
repay one for the making of it. Use a cigar box for the carriage,
making it about 10 in. high, and shape it in the design shown. Nail a
piece of wood, ¹⁄₈ by 2 by 4 in. wide, on each side of the carriage,
and drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes in them for the axle. For the horse, take a
piece of wood, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 6 in. long, and draw an outline of the head,
neck, and body. Cut this out and drill ¹⁄₈-in. holes where the legs are
attached.
[Illustration: The Toy is Pushed by Means of the Handle, Causing the
Horse to Walk]
Cut the legs as shown, about 3¹⁄₂ in. long. Attach them with small
bolts, or rivets, allowing space to move freely. The wheels are made
of pine, ¹⁄₂ in. thick and 3 in. in diameter. The axle is made of
³⁄₁₆-in. wire bent to the shape indicated, ¹⁄₂ in. at each offset.
Fit the wheels on the axle tightly, so as not to turn on it, the axle
turning in the pieces nailed to the sides of the carriage. The horse is
attached to the top of the carriage by a strip of wood. A 3-ft. wooden
handle is attached to the back of carriage to guide it. Wires are
attached to the legs, connecting with the offsets in the axle.--Charles
Claude Wagner, Los Angeles, Calif.
Safeguarding Contents of Unsealed Envelopes
The gummed flaps on envelopes for first-class mail are generally short,
and for sending photographs or second-class matter these short flaps do
not stay tucked in. The solution is to lengthen the flap, by pasting on
a sheet of paper, using the gum thereon.--G. N. Neary, New York, N. Y.
Revolving Outdoor Lunch Table
[Illustration: The Persons Seated around the Table Help Themselves to
the Food Conveniently by Turning the Central Top]
Picnic parties on one of the Maine lakes make much use of a large
table, having a revolving top, so that the lunch may be placed on
the center portion and the persons seated around the board may help
themselves handily. The stationary top is supported on several
cross braces of 2 by 4 in. stuff, and the revolving top, pivoted at
the center, is carried on wooden roller bearings, fixed near its
circumference. The lower portion of the table is in the form of
cupboards which are padlocked, providing storage space for equipment
left for the use of picnickers. The table is set under a pergola,
which provides shade. Benches, curved to fit the table, may be used
conveniently with it. A small table of this type is practical as a
children’s play table, providing convenient storage space for toys and
other articles.--E. E. Dickson, Holyoke, Mass.
* * * * *
¶When, in papering a bathroom with the same tiled paper on sides and
ceiling, the paper does not match in the ceiling corners, place a
strip of quarter-round there, and color it to suit the paper.
A Penny-in-the-Slot Newspaper Stand
[Illustration]
A silent, yet very successful “newsboy” is shown in the photograph
reproduced. Each rack holds one of the daily newspapers. The passer-by
puts a penny in the slot and selects his paper. The penny falls down
a chute, striking a bell, as evidence that the customer has paid.
Hundreds of papers are sold from this rack each day without the aid
of the newsboy’s shouts. The slanting shelves make it unnecessary to
provide weights for the papers.--M. F. Hall, St. Louis, Mo.
Pedals for Typewriter Space and Shift Keys Increase Speed
[Illustration]
By attaching pedals to the space key and shift key I increased my
typewriting speed about 20 words a minute. I made two pedals fast to
the typewriter desk, as shown, then ran stiff steel wires up to the
keys, connecting the latter to the wire with rubber bands. The pedals
are adjusted so that a light tap operates them. If a light typewriter
is used, it should be fixed to the desk. The wires can be unhooked
quickly from the typewriter, and suspended on hooks under the edge of
the desk.--W. J. M., Manila, P. I.
Timing Pointer on Watch Crystal
Working in a photo-print finishing plant where often several jobs need
attention and accurate timing, all at the same time, I find a pointer
on my watch crystal a great help. The crystal was loose enough to
permit turning it. I glued a three-cornered piece of black paper to
the under side of the crystal at the edge. When a batch of prints is
placed in a bath, the pointer is set 15 minutes ahead of the minute
hand. When the latter reaches the pointer, it reminds me to remove the
prints. After placing a batch of films in the developing tank, I set
the pointer ahead of the minute hand the required time for developing,
placing the watch in view, to see readily when the time is up.--A. J.
Viken, Waterloo, Iowa.
Portable Tent Made from an Umbrella and Paper Muslin
[Illustration]
Picnickers desiring to go in bathing are often handicapped by the lack
of a convenient place to change clothes. An umbrella and some paper
muslin provides a light portable tent that is practical and inexpensive
for such uses. Cut the dark paper muslin into as many 9-ft. lengths as
there are sections of the umbrella. Sew these strips together. At each
seam tie a string about a yard long and a stout cord 15 ft. long to the
handle to hold up the tent. For use, open the umbrella, invert it, and
to each rib tie one of the strings. Then tie one end of the cord to
the handle of the umbrella and suspend it from a tree or other support
as shown, weighting or tying down the other end.--Mabel Hubbard Birch,
Cincinnati, Ohio.
Memorandum List for Camping and Outing Trips
Persons who occasionally take an outing or go camping will find a
written list of articles needed on the trip a great saving of time and
mental energy. This list should be made while making preparations,
and again read shortly before the departure. It may be kept from
year to year, and items added or withdrawn, as experience teaches.
Classification is desirable, under heads such as camping gear, cooking
utensils, tableware, foods, supplies, etc. Each member of a party can
agree to furnish certain articles, avoiding duplication. Anyone who has
gone on outings and left behind some much-needed article, will readily
realize the help such a list can be, and by its use the amateur may
profit from the experience of others.
A Homemade Trouble Lamp
[Illustration]
By attaching a handle for carrying, and making suitable connections, a
portable trouble light was made of a dry battery. A strip of iron was
bent to the shape shown, for the handle, and fixed to the binding post
on the carbon. A bell from an alarm clock was drilled and tapped to fit
a small light bulb, and fastened at the zinc post. The upper edge of
the bell was bolted to the extension of the handle, as shown, leather
washers insulating it. A small switch, riveted loosely to the iron
strip, controls the light.--Carl A. Haberlein, McPherson, Kan.
* * * * *
¶Books to be stacked or carried should be arranged with the backs on
alternate sides.
Pulley and Weight Exerciser Homemade in the Orient
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
When the Necessary Hardware Was Not at Hand, a Satisfactory Rigging was
Made for Exercising, by the Use of Novel Substitute Materials]
Finding it difficult to obtain materials for the making of a gymnastic
exerciser, I made one with makeshift parts, typical of this locality.
Later I was able to get the necessary hardware and made an exerciser,
as shown in Fig. 1, quite similar to those manufactured commercially.
The original arrangement is shown in Fig. 2. I mounted a bamboo rod on
two iron brackets fastened to the wall. Small pegs provided guides for
the ropes, and the smooth surface of the bamboo caused little wear.
Other bamboo rods were used for the handle and to support the weights.
These were made by filling cans with sand, and tying them with cords.
This arrangement was quite practical, but did not give the desired
freedom of movement.--M. A. Laner, Hongkong, China.
Scoop on Painter’s Knife Catches Scrapings
By fitting a sheet-metal scoop to a painter’s putty knife or wall
scraper, much of the dirt and refuse resulting is caught in the
receptacle instead of falling to the floor and being tracked into other
rooms. The scoop is a rectangular can, and is fastened into place by
small bolts fitted through the scraper.
Gas-Hose Bracket for Ironing or Shop Use
[Illustration: The Bracket Gives Greater Freedom in the Use of the Gas
Iron]
In a home where it was customary to use an overhead gas fixture for
the attachment of the gas iron for ironing clothes, it was found that
mantles were frequently broken by the resulting jar. By making a
bracket for the gas hose, which is fastened to the end of the ironing
board or to the edge of the table, this trouble was remedied. The new
arrangement gave much greater freedom in the use of the iron. The
bracket can be removed quickly and fitted to a bench for use in the
shop.--M. J. F. Schramm, Ridgewood, N. Y.
Homemade Guide for Photo and Paper Trimmer
[Illustration: The Spring Hinge Presses the Guide Down on the Print
being Cut]
Having an old but still serviceable photograph trimmer, with which it
was difficult to trim prints uniformly and quickly, I made a guide for
this purpose and fitted it to the board, as shown. The guide is a strip
of wood, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, and is fastened to the cleat with a spring
hinge, mounted on a block. Although it is not transparent, like the
best commercial devices of this kind, it gives good service.--R. B.
Manck, Nazareth, Pa.
Joining Broken Liquid Column in Thermometer
To reunite the particles of mercury or other liquid, which have become
separated in a thermometer, raise it to the level of the extended arm,
the bulb outward, and jolt the tube with a quick downward stroke.
Repeat this, not too vigorously, until the liquid returns to its proper
position.
Umbrella Used as a Clothes Drier
[Illustration]
A clothes drier that can be carried in a purse or a vest pocket will
appeal to travelers, and persons living in small quarters. An umbrella,
four yards of strong wrapping twine, and several small brass rings are
required. Knot the rings into the twine at intervals, measuring the
distance between the rib points of the umbrella, and hook the twine to
the points by the rings, as shown, providing considerable drying space
for small articles. Hook the umbrella handle over a suitable support,
or tie it carefully to the supporting pipe of a light fixture in the
middle of the room, ready for the articles to be dried. The twine may
also be wrapped around the points, but it is better to carry a line
with rings attached.
* * * * *
¶By reversing the handle on a dust brush which has been worn near the
point, additional wear may be obtained.
Metal Band Stiffens Brush
In painting, and other work where a brush is used, it is often
desirable to stiffen the bristles. This may be done readily by fixing
a band of sheet metal over the brush, to slide tightly. By adjusting
it, the length and stiffness of the part of the bristles used may be
controlled.
Rubber Band Prevents Tangling of Telephone Cord
[Illustration]
It is exasperating to pick up the telephone receiver to answer a call
and find the cord twisted or wound around the telephone standard. A
long receiver cord will not tangle if a rubber band is used to support
it, as shown in the sketch. The elastics permits considerable play, and
if the fullest extension of the cord is desired, it may be supported
on several linked rubber bands, on the left of the standard.--K. M.
Coggeshall, Webster Groves, Mo.
Improvised Trousers Hanger in Train Berth
[Illustration]
The berth of a sleeping car is usually provided with a coat hanger,
but if there is a rod on it for trousers, there is nothing to keep
them from slipping off. By removing two of the curtain hooks, hanging
the trousers over the curtain pole, and replacing the hooks over the
trousers, a satisfactory hanger is obtained, which will not permit them
to slip down no matter how rough the road.
Headrest for Porch Swing
[Illustration: The Hinged Board Provides a Comfortable Headrest, and Is
a Safety Feature]
Here is a “peach” of a homemade porch swing--a shock-absorbing species.
The top board is attached with springy hinges, and affords an ideal
headrest. It also tends to prevent children from climbing over the
back.--H. W. Hart, St. Paul, Minn.
Fruit-Picking Pole with Gravity Delivery Chute
[Illustration]
For picking fruit without bruising it, in the home garden, or for
exhibition purposes, the fruit-picking pole shown in the sketch is
useful. A wire ring is fixed to the top of the pole, and the bag,
suspended from it, is fastened to the pole at intervals. The fruit is
removed by means of the ring and drops to the bottom of the chute,
which is held closed by the hand. For picking large quantities of fruit
a receptacle is carried by the picker.--Mrs. Ella L. Lamb. Mason,
Michigan.
A Set of Electric Chimes
A set of electric dinner chimes is a welcome and useful addition to
many households, and may be made at a trifling cost by the average
person handy with tools. The completed article is shown in Fig. 1, the
details in Fig. 2, and the wiring diagram in Fig. 3. The woodwork is of
¹⁄₂-in. stock. The back A, Fig. 2, is 1¹⁄₂ in., by 9³⁄₄ in. long. The
ends may be shaped to suit the builder’s fancy. The shelf B is 4 in.
square, and is fastened to the back piece 2¹⁄₄ in. from the upper end.
It supports the magnets C, which are made on cores, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter
and ³⁄₄ in. long, with ends ¹⁄₁₆ in. by 1 in. in diameter. The spools
are wound full of No. 28 silk-covered copper magnet wire. These coils
mounted on the shelf by means brass straps D. Four magnets are used,
the forward one being omitted in Fig. 2.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
When the Buttons are Pressed, Tones are Given Forth by the Electrically
Operated Gongs]
The supports E, for the tubes, consist of ¹⁄₂-in. lengths of ¹⁄₄-in.
square brass rod. One end of the rod is drilled and tapped for an 8-32
screw which holds the support in place. Drill a small hole, ¹⁄₄ in.
from the end, for the pin G, made of steel wire. The tapper H is made
from a 4¹⁄₂-in. length of stiff iron wire; 1¹⁄₄ in. from one end a
³⁄₈-in. cube of iron, J, is soldered, the wire passing through it. The
ends of the wire are fitted with balls as shown. A nickeled gong, K,
covers the four magnets. The end of the tapper is passed through the
hole in the gong and the ball riveted into place.
Four ³⁄₄-in. diameter tubes are used, respectively 3, 4, 5, and 6 in.
long. When the apparatus is assembled as shown, and one of the magnets
is energized, the latter will draw the iron cube J toward it, and the
tapper will strike one of the tubes.
To control the current supplying the magnets, four small push buttons
mounted on a wooden base are used. They are wired up with the battery
and coils, as shown in Fig. 3. A wire from each of the coils runs
directly to one terminal of the battery, the other wire from each coil
being connected to a separate push button. The other sides of the push
buttons are connected to the battery. By this means any of the magnets
may be energized at will, the coils and corresponding push buttons
being marked L and M, etc., alphabetically.
Tabs for Turning Sheet Music Quickly
[Illustration]
Musicians sometimes have trouble in turning over sheet music quickly.
Here is a simple way to turn the leaves quickly and easily: Paste a tab
on the edge of each sheet, as shown. The first sheet is tagged at the
top, the second in the middle, and the last sheet at the bottom, like a
letter file. Where there are many sheets, it is easy to grasp the upper
tab, on each successive sheet.--M. W. Meier, Chicago, Ill.
A Springy Hammock Support Made of Boughs
[Illustration: The Camp Bed can be “Knocked Down,” or Transported
Considerable Distances as It Stands]
In many camping places, balsam branches, or moss, are available for
improvising mattresses. Used in connection with a hammock, or a bed
made on the spot, such a mattress substitute provides a comfort that
adds to the joys of camping. A camp hammock, or bed of this kind, is
shown.
[Illustration: The Poles are Selected Carefully and Set Up with Stout
Cross Braces at the Middle, and Lighter Ones for the Mattress Support]
To make it, cut four 6-ft. poles, of nearly the same weight and 1 in.
in diameter at the small end. These saplings should have a fork about
2¹⁄₂ ft. from the lower ends, as resting places for the crossbars, as
shown. Then cut two poles, 2 in. in diameter and 3¹⁄₂ ft. long, and
two smaller poles, 3 ft. long. Also cut two forked poles, 4¹⁄₂ ft.
long, for the diagonal braces. Place two of the long poles crossing
each other, as shown, 1 ft. from the ground. Set up the second pair
similarly. Fix the crossbars into place, in the crotches, the ends of
the crotch branches being fastened under the opposite crossbar. The
end bars are fixed to the crossed poles by means of short rope loops.
The mattress is placed on springy poles, 7 ft. long and 2 in. apart,
alternating thick and thin ends. The moss is laid over the poles,
and the balsam branches spread on thickly. Blankets may be used as a
cover.--J. S. Zerbe, Coytesville, N. J.
A Revolving Card, or Ticket, Holder
[Illustration]
A holder which may be ornamented and trimmed with leather or other
materials, was made of several disks of wood, joined at the center by
a thumbscrew, and provided a neat place for calling cards, post cards,
etc. The block A, which fits against the wall, is ³⁄₈ in. thick and 2
in. in diameter. The disk C is ¹⁄₄ by 7 in., the disk D, 6 in., and
the metal disk E, 6 in. in diameter. The edge of the metal disk, which
may be of ornamented or etched brass, or copper, is curled forward as
shown. The thumbscrew B holds the disks together and fastens them to
the wall.--James E. Noble, Portsmouth, Ontario, Can.
Testing Direct Current Polarity with Litmus Paper
Litmus paper laid on glass, and moistened with a weak solution of
sodium sulphate can be used to test the polarity of a direct current.
If the two conductors are touched on the moistened paper, the latter
will turn red at the positive, and blue at the negative conductor.
* * * * *
¶A berry stemmer made of a small pair of tweezers is useful for
removing superfluous buds from garden flowering plants.
An Automatic Fishhook
The hook A is made of tempered brass or steel wire of a gauge
sufficient for the size of the fish to be caught. A wire of No. 18
gauge is about right for ordinary fishing, with a No. 20 or 22 gauge
for the trigger. Hooks, C C, can be soldered on the points to angle for
larger fish. Barbs are not required for smaller fish.
[Illustration]
Such a hook will catch the fish, even if they only nibble, and is
especially good for fishing through the ice. Use a bob and a pole, and
bait the short hook with a minnow or worm. The extreme length of a hook
for catching a 1-lb. fish should be 3 in. Fasten the line as shown at
B.--Contributed by Robert C. Knox, Waycross, Ga.
Temporary Binder for Magazines
The sketch illustrates an inexpensive temporary binder for periodicals,
magazines, newspapers, etc. It consists of four parts, namely, two
sheets of cardboard, A, the size of the magazine to be bound, and
two pieces of linen or tape, B. A slot is cut in each corner of the
cardboards about 1 in. from the edge. The tape is run through these
slots in the manner shown.
[Illustration: The Binding is Only Temporary to Keep the Magazines in
Good Condition for a Complete Volume]
The magazine numbers, as they are received, are placed on the back
cardboard, building them up consecutively as they come. The ends of
the tape are tied to hold them together. The backbone is open and the
contents are readily seen.
The sliding of the tape in the slots provides a means of holding from
one to as many copies as may be desired, and they are kept in good
condition until a complete volume is compiled, when a more permanent
binder can be made.
Instead of tape a leather strap can be used with a buckle. The tapes
can be fastened to one of the cardboards, allowing one end only to be
movable.
Combination Workshop Seat
A most practical and satisfactory way of using a stool in a small
workshop is shown in the illustration. In much of my small work at the
bench I find it an advantage to sit, and for that purpose I purchased a
small stool. My lathe is operated by a geared foot motor provided with
two foot levers which may be operated singly in a standing position or
both at a time when sitting. The attachment shown converts the stool,
the seat of which is too low except for bench work, into a comfortable
and neat seat for working at a lathe. The sketch is self-explanatory.
[Illustration]
A plate with a setscrew is mounted under the center of the stool seat,
through which a hole is bored for the seat post. Two pieces of iron
pipe, an elbow and an old bicycle saddle constitute the remaining parts
of the device. Provision is made for adjustment as to height, and the
position of the saddle may be changed in the ordinary way by using a
wrench on the part which grips the horizontal length of pipe, just the
same as the seat on a bicycle-seat post is adjusted.
Substitute for Rivets in Couches
The rivets in a couch come loose and work out quite often, leaving it
loose and wobbly. To make rivets fit properly by hammering them into
place is almost impossible and to repair the couch with stove bolts
makes an unsightly job. A very good repair and one that will make a
couch rigid and strong again is by the use of ordinary brass binding
posts from old dry-battery cells instead of rivets. These can be easily
placed without tools.--Contributed by G. H. Clemmons, Storm Lake, Iowa.
A Nonbinding Tool-Chest Slide Tray
[Illustration: The Spool in Each Corner of the Tray Rolls against the
Side of the Tool Chest]
The slide trays of a tool chest, especially if they are wider than
they are deep, are apt to bind. To remedy this trouble, I procured
four ordinary thread spools and inserted them in openings cut for
them in the corners of the tray. Holes were bored through the corners
for pins to hold the spools in place.--Contributed by J. V. Loeffler,
Evansville, Indiana.
A Brooder
[Illustration: The Feathers of the Duster in the Center of the Box Take
the Place of Those of a Hen]
A very effective brooder can be made of an old feather duster hung in a
box so that the tips of the feathers will come close to the bottom. The
brooder consists of a wood box about 1 ft. high. The cover is removed
and a hole cut in the center to receive the shank of the duster after
cutting its handle off. This makes an excellent substitute for the
feathers of the hen. Some finely cut hay, or sand, is placed beneath
so as to bring the level up sufficiently for the chicks to run among
the feathers. For ventilation, bore some holes in the sides of the box
near the top and cut a small opening for an entrance. For convenience
in cleaning, the cover should be hinged.--Contributed by Wm. T. Miller,
Roslindale, Mass.
How to Make a Fancy Buttonhook
Procure a piece of ¹⁄₄-in. round steel, about 5 in. long, and file
one end of it square for about one-third of the length, so that the
diagonal of the square part is less than the diameter of the rod. Cut
about 8 washers each, of brass and iron, from material, ¹⁄₈-in. thick.
Make the hole in the washers square to fit the square on the rod.
The washers can be cut out roughly on the outside, but they must be
larger than the diameter of the rod. Place the brass and iron washers
alternately on the rod, beginning with a brass and finishing with an
iron washer, which latter is held in place by riveting the end of the
rod on it.
[Illustration: The Different Colors of the Metals When Polished and
Buffed Give the Hook a Neat Appearance]
The washers are then filed round, and the remaining end of the rod is
tapered. The pointed end is bent into a hook. The whole length is then
polished and buffed.--Contributed by H. W. Hankin, Trail, Can.
Hinge Lock for Horizontal Sliding Windows
[Illustration]
A simple catch for fixing windows of the horizontal sliding type so
that it is difficult to pry them open is shown in the sketch. It is
made of an old hinge, one end of which is sharpened so as to engage
the surface of the frame on which the sash slides. When not in use the
hinge is folded up. It can be used to set the window at various points
when it is desired to have it partly open.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis,
Md.
Repairing a Brass Candlestick
[Illustration]
A brass candlestick brought to me for repairs had lost a crownlike bit
of ornamentation once fitting on the top of the grease cup. To make a
finish at this point I soldered therein a heavy brass nose ring. The
soldering being concealed on the under portion, the effect was very
good, and strength was added to the thin brass cup, preventing possible
denting of the edge.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Hand Guards for Motorcyclists
[Illustration]
When riding my motorcycle in cool weather, my hands became very cold,
and in order to overcome this, I had guards, like that shown in the
sketch, made of oilcloth. A piece, tapered from 10 in. at one end to
4¹⁄₂ in. at the other, and 12 in. long, was formed into a cone, the
smaller end being fitted, with an elastic band, over the handlebar.
The guards keep the hands comfortable without gloves in cool weather,
and, with gloves, are of great service in the winter.--George Westaway,
Davenport, Ia.
Bicycle-Handle Grip on Rake Handle
[Illustration]
By fitting a bicycle handle to the end of a rake handle a grip is
provided that is comfortable in the hand when considerable raking is to
be done. The sketch shows the grip attached. Several small brads were
nailed through the handle and countersunk so as not to injure the hand.
This prevented the grip from becoming loosened easily.
Removal Marker for Card Index
[Illustration]
A marker which is adapted for use in files of various sizes is shown
in the illustration. It may be made easily of medium-weight cardboard,
cut to the shape shown in the diagram below and bent as indicated. The
marker is inserted at a point in the index from which a card or other
filed material has been removed. It is of such a size that, when in
use, the tab projects only enough to be recognized, and the marker may
be left in the drawer so as to be convenient for future use. The sketch
shows the marker partly withdrawn. The small projections shown in the
diagram are important in that they act as springs when the marker is in
use.--John B. Wade, Wellington, Kan.
* * * * *
¶Gaskets cut from old inner tubes are satisfactory for water
connections.
Driving Nails to Prevent Splitting
[Illustration]
A nail driven so that it crosses the grain, as shown in the sketch,
is not likely to split the board through which it passes. The
splitting often results when the nail is driven straight. The nail
should be started at different angles according to the grain of the
wood.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
Feeding Geese in a Poultry Yard
Having four geese in a yard with chickens, I found that the chickens
would not allow the geese to pick up the food. To feed the geese I
placed the corn in the bottom of a pan and filled it with water. The
geese will easily pick up the corn from under the water, where the
chickens would not attempt to touch it.--Contributed by Walter L.
Kaufmann, Santa Ana, Cal.
Homemade Calipers
[Illustration: The Spring Wire is Bent So That the Points Turn In or
Out as Desired]
A good pair of calipers can be easily and quickly made by anyone in the
following manner: Procure a piece of spring wire, about 15 in. long,
and bend it as shown in the sketch, allowing the ends to point inward
or outward as the style demands. A loop of heavy wire is fastened
around the center so that it can be slid back and forth along the
wire. This serves the purpose of an adjuster.--Contributed by Stanley
Radcliffe, Laurel, Md.
Starting Garden Plants
In starting small plants to get them hardy and ready to plant in the
early spring provide separate receptacles of paper, then the plant
can be set out without trouble and it will grow as if it had never
been moved. Procure some heavy paper and make the cups as shown in the
sketch.
[Illustration: The Paper Cup Starts One Plant and When Reset No Damage
Results from the Change]
The paper is cut into squares, the size depending on the plant, and
each square is folded on the dotted line AB. This forms a triangle of
a double thickness. The next fold is made on the line CD, bringing
the point E over to F. Then the paper is folded over on the line FG,
bringing the point H over to C. This will leave a double-pointed end at
J. The parts of this point are separated and folded down on the sides
which form the cup as shown.
These cups are filled with earth and set into earth placed in a
box. The seeds are planted within the cups. When it comes time for
transplanting, the cup with the plant is lifted out and set in the
garden without damage to the plant roots. The paper soon rots away and
gives no trouble to the growing plant.
Gas Stove for the Dining Table
The stove is made of one piece of No. 6 gauge brass wire and a 6-in.
length of ¹⁄₂-in. gas pipe, A. Drill six ¹⁄₁₆-in. holes in the side of
the pipe, spacing them evenly. Turn a cap on one end of the pipe and
fit a hose cock on the other. Start with the ends of the wire and make
one turn around the pipe, then make loops at both sides, to serve as
feet, and shoulders, on which to set the bread in making toast. From
this point, where the wires come together, twist them for a length of
6 in. They are then spread and formed into a circle about 4 in. in
diameter. The other side, or upright, is made in the same manner as
making the first part.
[Illustration: The Stove Takes the Place of an Electric Stove Where
There is Only a Gas Supply]
A piece of sheet metal, B, is cut to fit the space between the wires,
allowing projections at the upper and lower outside edges for bending
around the upright twisted wires. The entire stove can be nickelplated
if desired. It can be used in the same manner as an electric stove
and for the same purposes where a home is supplied only with
gas.--Contributed by E. L. Douthett, Kansas City, Mo.
Castings without Patterns
The sketch shows a method of making small castings that I have used for
several years and the castings so produced are strong and very durable,
almost equal to the ordinary casting. The idea may be of considerable
value to inventors and home mechanics.
[Illustration: A Mold Made in Plaster without a Special Pattern and Run
with a Soft Metal]
The mold is of plaster of Paris, held in a wood frame or box, and all
that is required in the way of a pattern is a plain block or anything
that will produce an impression of the general outline of the casting,
as shown in the sketch. After the impression is made the mold should
be dusted thoroughly with black lead. The journal bearings are then
located, holes drilled in the hardened plaster and wood pins set as
shown. These pins must be of hard wood and of a diameter to suit the
finished size of the bore. Brass tubing of a suitable size is cut off
to the length required and placed on the wood pins. These pieces of
tubing will be the brass bushings in the finished castings. Babbitt
metal is melted and poured into the mold. Before pouring the metal it
is well to be sure that the plaster is thoroughly dry.
The mold is as shown, and the upper side of the metal is at all times
exposed to the air. This makes it necessary to have all core prints on
the under side, as this side will be the one in view when the casting
is finished, and the upper side, as the casting lies in the mold, will
be the inside or unexposed side. In case of curved work, reinforcing
strips of sheet brass should be placed in the mold and imbedded in the
casting, as shown in the sketch by the dotted lines.
A little practice will enable anyone to produce very neat cored
castings. and when the brass bushings are fitted to size and faced off,
and the casting painted, a piece will be produced that will compare in
finish and general usefulness with anything of the nature that could
be bought. Do not treat the brass tubes with soldering flux unless
necessary, for they should be removable so that they can be replaced
when worn.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.
A Developing-Paper Printer
Having a rush order for a large quantity of post cards, I was compelled
to adopt some way of making the prints quickly. As I was in a place
where a printer could not be secured for several weeks, I set about
making one, with good results, as shown in the illustrations.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
Parts for Making the Switch So That It will Operate Automatically as
the Cover is Moved]
I first secured an ordinary soap box and took it apart, being careful
to keep the boards whole, then rebuilt it to make a box with ends
measuring 12 in. square, and 14 in. in length. In one end I cut a large
hole to admit a 60-watt tungsten globe, then, taking another board, I
fitted a knob and hinges to it and used it for a door. The other end of
the box was centered and a hole bored large enough to admit an ordinary
socket. Another hole was bored, 4 in. to the right, for another socket.
A much heavier material was used for the lid than for the box, being at
least ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. A piece of double-strength, clear glass, 8 by 10
in. in size, was procured and set in a hole cut in the cover so that
its upper surface would be flush.
[Illustration: The Printer may be Set in the Table Top or Used
Separately, as Desired]
An ordinary single-pole switch was secured, as shown in Fig. 1, also
a small mousetrap, as shown in Fig. 2. The front part of the trap was
sawed off so that only the spring was utilized. The base of the trap
was then cut out to fit snugly on the base of the switch, into which
two corresponding holes were bored for the screws. The next thing was
to secure several clips, which were cut from sheet brass, to operate
the switch, and a lever to control the switch, as shown in Fig. 3. The
lever is 1 in. wide and 4 in. long, having a slot at the bottom, to
slip easily over the lever handle in the switch, and a hole, drilled 1
in. above the slot, to admit a nail to keep the spring from throwing it
out of position. The clips for holding the films, or plates, are shown
in Fig. 4.
[Illustration: Side View of the Printer, Showing Parts Assembled and
the Main Line Connections to the Globes]
After securing a double socket, of which there are many types, a few
yards of lamp cord, a piece of felt, 6 by 8 in. in size, and two
ordinary lamp sockets, I was ready to assemble the printer. The switch
was then placed on a board of the same width, the spring of the trap
placed on top of it and then fastened with screws. This board was then
cut off the length of the inside of the box and fastened in place, with
the switch and trap spring on top.
The ruby light A burns all the time, acting as a pilot in placing
the negative. When the cover B is lowered, after placing the paper,
the felt pad on the under side holding it secure, the projecting arm
C comes in contact with the switch lever D and makes the connection
to the tungsten light E. After the proper time for the exposure has
been given the cover is raised and by this action the tungsten light
is automatically shut off, leaving only the red light burning. With a
60-watt lamp I secure a print in about 3 seconds, which is fast enough.
Of course, by using a larger lamp, the time could be reduced to a
second or more, according to the size. The time given was obtained by
experience in using ordinary brands of papers.--Contributed by Harry
Marcelle, Honolulu, H. I.
Transposing Temperature Readings
[Illustration: The Readings can be Transposed from Fahrenheit to
Centigrade or Vice Versa Instantly by the Use of This Scale]
It is often necessary for the amateur scientist to transpose a
temperature reading from the Fahrenheit to the centigrade scale,
or vice versa. This is easily accomplished by means of the diagram
without the use of a formula. The centigrade readings are given on the
horizontal axis and the Fahrenheit readings on the vertical axis. The
temperature readings are the same at minus 40 deg. and from that point
on the Fahrenheit readings equal nine-fifths of the centigrade plus 32.
This reading is instantly seen by the scale.--Contributed by James F.
Boyd, Ann Arbor, Mich.
Protecting Plans in a Shop
The magazines I used in the shop, for making a few things from plans,
became so soiled that they were unfit for the library. I now keep them
clean by using a covering made of an old picture frame from which the
back was removed and a plain glass inserted in its place. This is
placed over the magazine or other plans on the bench and keeps them
clean, dustless, open and flat.--Contributed by H. J. Blacklidge, San
Rafael, Cal.
Homemade Eyebolts
[Illustration]
Many times one has use for an eyebolt when there is none at hand.
Eyebolts of almost any size can be quickly made of a spring cotter.
Simply thread the end, as shown, and use a nut and washer.--Contributed
by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
To Keep Tan Shoes from Turning Dark
Tan-shoe polishes seem to rub the dirt into the leather and to darken
it in a short time. Tan shoes can be kept clean and well polished
without losing their original bright tan color if treated in the
following simple manner. Instead of using tan polish on a new pair of
shoes, dampen the end of a soft clean cloth, and rub a small portion of
the leather at a time with the moist end and then rub briskly with the
dry end. In this way tan shoes can be kept clean and nicely polished
like new.--Contributed by John V. Voorhis, Ocean Grove, N. J.
A Finger-Trap Trick
It is easy to fool one’s friends with the little joker made to trap a
finger. It consists of a piece of paper, about 6 in. wide and 12 in. or
more long. To prepare the paper, cut two slots in one end, as shown,
and then roll it up to tube form, beginning at the end with the cuts,
then fasten the end with glue. The inside diameter should be about ¹⁄₂
inch.
[Illustration: It is Easy to Insert a Finger in the Tube, but to Get It
Out is Almost Impossible]
When the glue is dry, ask some one to push a finger into either end.
This will be easy enough to do, but to remove the finger is a different
matter. The end coils tend to pull out and hold the finger. If the tube
is made of tough paper, it will stand considerable pull.--Contributed
by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.
* * * * *
¶When mercury is spilled it can be picked up with a medicine dropper.
Homemade Roller Skates
[Illustration: Wheels Fitted into the Ends of a Long Board, to Make a
Roller Skate]
The long wheel base of the roller skate illustrated makes it quite safe
and will prevent falls. The construction of these skates is simple,
the frame being made of a board, 2 ft. long, 3 in. wide and 1 in.
thick. Holes are mortised through the ends to admit the wheels. A small
block, cut out on one side to fit the heel of the shoe, is securely
fastened centrally, for width, and just in front of the rear wheel on
the board. Two leather straps are fastened to one side of each board,
to fasten the skate onto the shoe. The wheels can be turned from hard
wood, or small metal wheels may be purchased, as desired. The axle for
the wheels consists of a bolt run through a hole bored in the edge of
the board centrally with the mortise.--Contributed by Walter Veene, San
Diego, Cal.
* * * * *
¶The screw collar of a vise should be oiled at least once a month.
How to Make a High Stool
[Illustration]
The cast-off handles of four old brooms, three pieces of board, cut as
shown, and a few screws will make a substantial high stool. The legs
should be placed in the holes, as shown at A, and secured with screws
turned through the edge of the board into the legs in the holes. The
seat B should be fastened over this and the legs braced by the square
piece C. Screws are turned through the legs and into the square piece
to keep it in position.
Keeping Magazines in a Book Form
[Illustration: Several Boxes will Appear the Same as a Set of Books and
will Preserve the Magazines]
Desiring to preserve magazine copies without binding them, I made
up a series of boxes that gave the appearance of books, and placed
the numbers in order in them as they were received. The sides of the
boxes consist of two thin boards, a little larger than the size of the
magazine to be placed in them. The ends are made of the same material,
wide enough to equal the thickness of the copies to be placed in each
box, four or six numbers, or a volume. One end of these pieces is made
slightly rounding, and the pieces are then put together as shown.
The rounded ends of the end pieces and the opening between the sides
are covered with a piece of cardboard or bristol board, to shape the
back of the box like a book. The finished box is entirely covered, like
a book, with cloth or imitation leather. The backs can be lettered and
decorated to appear like a book.--Contributed by R. M. Guarino, New
York City.
A Cardboard Creaser
[Illustration: The Wire on the Creaser Presses the Paper into the Space
between the Two Wood Pieces]
A simple apparatus for creasing thin cardboard or heavy paper in a
perfectly straight line without broken edges is described in the French
magazine La Nature as follows: On a base of convenient dimensions are
fastened two pieces of wood, well smoothed and of equal thickness, so
that there remains a slot, about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, between them. At one end
a hole is bored through these pieces for a shaft on which the creaser
will turn. The creaser is made of a piece of wood somewhat longer than
the baseboard so that a handle can be formed at one end. At the other
end it is slotted for a piece of metal, perforated for the shaft and
fastened with two pins or rivets, as shown. On the under side of the
creaser a stiff steel wire is fastened so that it coincides with the
slot. The wire is fastened by heating the ends red hot, bending them at
right angles to the main part and driving them into the creaser.
* * * * *
¶A razorlike edge can be put on a knife blade by carefully stropping
it without lubricant on a piece of smooth aluminum after first
whetting on an oilstone.
[Illustration]
A Miniature Illuminating-Gas Plant
BY MORTON SOUTHARD
[Illustration]
Very few persons realize that the smoke issuing from chimneys is mainly
coal gas carrying minute particles of unconsumed carbon that gives it
a dark-gray color, containing, besides, some sulphur and sulphuric
gases, carbonic-acid gas, and other impurities. It is only necessary to
collect the impurities to get a gas that will burn with a bright flame.
The products obtained from a gas plant are gas, ammoniacal liquor,
coal tar, and coke. Of 1 ton of coal, 1,500 lb. remains in the retort,
or furnace, as coke; 20 gal. of ammoniacal liquor and 140 lb. of coal
tar are taken from the cylinders and washers. When distilled, the
ammoniacal liquor will yield close to 18 gal. of ammonia, which is
used in the manufacture of artificial ice and cold storage. The coal
tar will yield approximately 19 lb. of benzol, which is the base of
all true aniline dyes; 6 lb. of naphthalene, commonly known as camphor
flakes or moth balls, which also yields some dyes; 4 lb. of toluene,
which is valuable as a solvent and is the base of saccharine, and about
2 lb. each of phenol (carbolic acid), pyrene, anthracene, xylenol,
cresol, chrysene, and alizarin. The residuum is coal-tar pitch, used
extensively as a binder for briquetting coal dust for household
consumption, and also for roofing and street paving. From these various
coal-tar products, dyes of every tint, shade and color are obtained,
as well as other industrial chemicals, from flavoring extracts to
perfumes, from volatile oils to high explosives, and from the sweetest
of all sweets to the bitterest of bitter.
A model gas plant--one that will be instructive and in no way dangerous
if proper precautions are taken--can be built from a few fire brick,
some pieces of pipe, and a few tin cans. Enough fire brick must be
secured to build a furnace 14 in. square by 20 in. high, inside
measurements. Build up the four walls on a level surface of the ground,
laying the bricks with a cement mortar to seal them perfectly, as
coal gas will find any small crevice and escape. For this reason it
is best to build a second wall outside of the first and plaster the
joint between them as it is built. When the four walls are finished,
make a grate of fire brick in the bottom by setting the brick on edge
and spacing them about ¹⁄₄ in. After the walls are dry, make ready
the material for the fire. Place sufficient kindling on the grate to
start a quick fire, then cover it with coal. When this is done, cover
the furnace with a heavy piece of asbestos board large enough to reach
the outside edge of the furnace walls. The board must be cemented to
the top surface of the brick walls. Place the cement mixture on the
wall top, then press the board on it, and place a weight on top until
the cement becomes dry. The cement mixture should consist of one part
cement to two parts of fine sand.
Procure a large can, such as used in canning tomatoes, having a
diameter of more than 4 in. and with top and bottom whole; also two
other cans, each having a capacity of 2 gal. with closed heads. Connect
the first can to the furnace with a piece of 2-in. pipe, as shown in
the illustration. The pipe can be bent for convenience, but in case
such a piece is not at hand, regular pipe connections can be made with
threaded ends, ells, waste nuts, etc. In either case, be sure to make
the joints gas-tight. If a bent pipe is used, the ends can be cemented
in the asbestos furnace top and the can top. Cut a hole centrally in
the asbestos top and at one side in the can top. Fit one end of the
pipe in the hole made in the asbestos and seal the connection with
asbestos cement, then do likewise with the end that enters the can top.
[Illustration: The Furnace Made of Fire Brick is Connected to the
Condenser and Washers with Ordinary Iron Pipe through Which the Gases
Pass After being Purified Before They Enter the Storage Tank]
In connecting the first and second cans, use a piece of 1-in. pipe.
This may be bent or connected with ells to form a U-shaped piece. In
either case, one end should be longer than the other so that one will
just pass into the first can, where it is sealed with asbestos cement,
while the other end passes through the second-can top, where it is
sealed, and extends to the bottom of the can. For the connection to the
third can, make a hole in the top of the second can, but do not seal it
up to the connection until the can is first filled with water to within
2 or 3 in. of the top. Also put powdered coke into the water, about
halfway of the can’s height.
The connection from the second and third cans should be made of glass
so that the gas can be observed passing through it between the cans.
This is not absolutely necessary, however, and a piece of ¹⁄₂-in. iron
pipe can be used instead. This pipe is connected in the same manner as
that between the first and second, extending to the bottom of the third
can and being sealed where it passes through the tops. The third can is
filled with water to within 2 or 3 in. of the top.