FIG. 5

The Design is Traced Carefully onto the Wood and Then Cut Out with the

Coping Saw, on the Saw Table]

When the design has been outlined satisfactorily, place the piece

of wood on the saw table with the design on the upper side. Holding

the wood down firmly, as shown in Fig. 5, and sawing in the notch of

the saw table, cut into the edge slowly. Apply light pressure on the

downstroke only, as the upstroke is not intended to cut, and turn the

piece to keep the saw on the line and in the notch. It is important

that the saw be held vertically so that the edge of the cut-out portion

will be square. With proper care and a little practice, the edges may

be cut so smoothly that only a light sandpapering will be required to

produce a smooth edge. When the figure has been cut out, smooth the

edges by trimming them carefully with a sharp knife, if necessary, and

sandpaper them lightly to remove sharp corners. A fine sandpaper, about

No. ¹⁄₂, is suitable for this purpose. The figure is then ready for

painting. The white is put on first and the other colors applied over

it, when dry.

Oil paints may be used, and a varnish or shellac applied over them

to give a high grade of work, but this process requires much care,

considerable skill, and long drying between coats to prevent “runs” in

the colors.

[Illustration: FIG. 6]

Water-color paint, which can be purchased in powder form at paint

stores, mixed with water to the consistency of cream is a satisfactory

coloring material, and is easy to apply. Five cents’ worth of each

of the colors used--yellow, red, blue, black, and white--will be

sufficient for several toys. Mix each color in a separate saucer, and

use a small water-color brush to apply the paint. In painting the horse

and rider, the horse is first painted entirely white, and then the

black spots are applied after the color is dry. The rider’s coat is

painted red; the trousers blue; the hat and leggings buff, as indicated

in Fig. 1. Mix a brushful of yellow with a brushful of red, and add

about three brushfuls of white. A half brushful of black may be added

to dull the color, if desired. The flesh tone for the rider’s face is

made by mixing a little red with white. When the colors are dry, all

edges are outlined with a heavy line of black, not less than ¹⁄₈ in. in

width. This outline may be evenly applied with the point of the brush.

[Illustration: FIG. 7

A Handmade Box Is Interesting in that It Expresses the Individuality of

the Maker, Especially When Made as a Gift]

The method of making the parrot is similar to that described for the

horse and rider, and the color scheme is suggested in Fig. 2.

It will be noticed that no attempt is made to secure a lifelike, or

realistic, effect in painting these toy shapes. All colors are flat,

that is, without light and shade. The toys are really decorative

designs, and the maker is at liberty to use any colors desired, whether

natural or not.

The horse and rider is balanced on the hind foot, as shown in

Fig. 6, by using a lead weight, attached to a ¹⁄₁₆-in. wire, as a

counterweight. The wire should be set into the body of the horse,

behind the foreleg, to a depth of ³⁄₄ in. The weight of the metal and

the curve of the wire should be adjusted to obtain the proper balance.

The parrot is balanced in the same way, except that the weight is fixed

to the end of the tail, which is curved like the wire.

These and other homemade toys or gifts may be sent or contained

appropriately in boxes decorated to match them, as shown in Fig. 7.

They may be made complete, or commercial boxes of suitable sizes may

be covered and decorated. If good materials are used, such a box makes

a pretty and useful gift in itself. The complete process of making a

typical box is described for those who prefer to make one of special

size. The dimensions given are thus only suggestive, and may be adapted

to suit particular needs.

[Illustration: FIG. 8

Color Schemes may be Obtained from Flowers and Other Natural Forms,

or by Selecting a Combination of Harmonious Shades. The Background Is

of Plum-Colored Paper; the Small Circles are Emerald-Green; the Light

Area, Yellow, and the Ovals, Orange-Red]

The materials necessary are: cardboard, cover paper, lining paper,

bond paper, paste, and water colors. The latter should be of the

opaque variety since white or other light shades may then be used on

darker-colored paper. A sharp knife, a scissors, a metal-edge ruler,

and bookbinder’s paste are also needed. Suitable substitutes for the

various kinds of paper may usually be obtained in the home, if they

are not readily available at local stationery stores or printing

establishments.

[Illustration: G

H

J

M

K

L

N

O

P

Q

FIG. 9

The Various Steps in the Process of Making and Covering a Rectangular

Cardboard Box are Shown in Detail. The Method of Making a Pattern for

the Design is shown Below]

The box is made as follows: Determine upon the proper size and select

materials to carry out the design. An appropriate combination of

colors and materials is suggested in Fig. 8. Cut out a square of the

cardboard, having sides 12¹⁄₂ in. long, as shown in Fig. 9, at G, then

mark it as indicated and cut on the full line to remove the square

corners. Crease it on the dotted lines and fold to form a box. To hold

the cardboard in box shape, strips of bond paper--ordinary writing

paper--are cut, 3³⁄₄ in. long and 1 in. wide, then creased along their

centers and pasted to the corners. The paste should be applied to the

paper strip first, then on the corners of the box. Apply the piece of

paper over the corner of the box on the outside, pressing it to make a

snug fit. Repeat this operation on the other corners.

Lay off the dimensions given at H on the selected color of cover paper,

which in this instance is plum, and score the lines indicated. Spread

paste smoothly over the surface of the plum paper, between the lines

drawn ³⁄₈ in. from the long edges, and then spread a thin layer of

paste over the outer surface of one of the sides of the box. Apply the

paper to the pasted surface and press it down, rubbing gently out from

the center to remove air bubbles. Fold the ³⁄₈-in. laps at the top and

bottom over the upper edge of the box and around the lower corner.

Repeat this process, covering the four sides. To form a smooth fold at

the corners, it is best to miter the paper as shown at J and K, before

pasting it down. Then paste a square of the same paper 4⁷⁄₈ in. wide on

the bottom of the box, taking care to match the edges evenly all around.

Line the box with a strip of lining paper, 20 in. long and 4 in. wide.

Try the lining by folding it into the box so that its upper edge is

about ¹⁄₈ in. from the edge of the box, and crease it carefully into

the corners. Remove it, apply paste, and press it well into the corners

when pasting it down. Paste a square of the same paper, 4⁷⁄₈ in wide,

in the bottom of the box.

The cover is made by the same process as the main portion of the box.

The dimensions of the cardboard are shown at L, and the covering at M.

It should be observed that the cover is slightly wider than the box,

so that it will fit easily.

When the box is thoroughly dry, it is ready to receive the decorations

on the top and sides. The design may be adapted from a leaf, flower,

or similar form, as well as from geometric or animal forms. The horse

and rider, the parrot, and the animals shown in the headpiece of this

article are all suggestive of animal forms that are available.

The design shown on the box in Fig. 7 was adapted from a flower form,

two of the units being joined for the decoration on the top. To obtain

a pattern for the design, fold a piece of paper, 2 by 4 in., as shown

at N, and outline one-half of a leaf, flower or similar motif. Cut the

folded paper as at O, and a pattern similar to that shown at P results.

Trace around this to place the figure on the box. Outline the figure

with black, about ¹⁄₈ in. wide, as at Q. The oval figures, suggestive

of small pods on a flower, are also outlined in black, and joined to

the main portion of the design by a black line. Thinner black lines are

drawn vertically across the form, and small circles placed along them

at intervals. The color scheme is shown in Fig. 8. The light background

is yellow, the small circles are emerald-green, and the ovals

red-orange. The rim of the cover is decorated with a border of white

ovals, outlined in black. The corners are banded in black and white as

shown in Fig. 7.

Care and Storage of Camp Equipment

A slovenly sportsman misses much of the joy of the man who takes pride

in giving his outfit the proper care, not only during its period of

use, but also during the winter, when occasional overhauling serves to

keep one in touch with sports of other seasons. And a very real joy it

is, each article recalling an experience as one examines it minutely

for a possible rust spot, scratch, or injury.

Tents usually come in for much abuse, which shortens their life

considerably. Cotton duck molds quickly, and rots if left rolled up

damp. Care should be taken, therefore, to insure its perfect dryness

before storing. Silk and silk-composition tents, being thoroughly

waterproof, are almost as dry after a rain or dew as before, so may be

packed for moving at any time. But all tents and tarpaulins should be

washed and dried carefully after the season’s use.

Blankets absorb much moisture, and should be shaken and spread out over

bushes to dry in the sun, at least once a week. In the cold nights

of late summer, the increased warmth of blankets after drying is

considerable.

Pack straps and ropes should not be left exposed to the weather.

They speedily become hard or brittle; squirrels like the salt they

can obtain by chewing the leather, and if left on the ground in a

rabbit country, the straps are soon cut into bits. Hang the leather

goods in the peak of the tent, keep them away from fire, and oil them

occasionally.

A canoe should not be left in the water overnight, or at any time when

it is not in use. Simply because use makes it wet, a canoe should not

be left so any more than a gun should be left dirty, or an ax dull. If

on a cruise with a heavy load, pile the stuff on shore at the night

camp, and turn the canoe over it. If a canoe is permitted to remain in

the water unnecessarily, or its inside exposed to rain, it soon becomes

water-soaked and heavy for portage, besides drying out when exposed to

the sun, and developing leaks.

Small punctures in the bottom of a canoe may be mended with spruce,

tamarack, or pine gum, melted into place with a glowing firebrand,

held close, while blowing at the spot to be repaired. Torn rags

of canvas-covered bottoms may be glued with the softer gum of new

“blazes,” gathered with a knife or flat stick.

While traveling on shallow streams the bottom of a board canoe develops

a “fur” of rubbed-up shreds. Every night these should be cut short

with a sharp-pointed knife, to prevent a shred from pulling out and

developing into a large splinter. The paddles, and the setting pole,

unless shod with iron, become burred at the ends and require trimming

down to solid wood.

The track line, if in use, is wet most of the time, and unless dried

frequently, becomes rotten. Every tracker knows the grave danger with a

rotten line in a rapids.

During the winter the canoe should be scraped and sandpapered, bulges

nailed down, permanent repairs made to the covering, and the canoe

painted on the exterior and varnished on the interior.

The average fisherman is an enthusiast who needs no urging in the

matter of caring for his outfit, and the user of firearms should profit

by this example. Even if not a shot has been fired from a gun all day,

moisture from the hands, or from the dampness in the woods, or marshes,

may cause rust spots, or corrode the bore. Rub an oily rag through the

bore and over the outside of the gun every evening, before laying it

aside.

Cleaning rods are safer and more thorough in cleaning the bore than

the common mouse string, which may break when drawing a heavy piece

of cloth through, causing much difficulty. A wooden rod, preferably

of hickory, is best, although the metal rod is stronger for use in

small bores, but care must be taken not to wear the muzzle unduly. The

hunting weapons should be carefully overhauled before storing them,

and given a coat of oil to protect the metal parts from rust.--A. M.

Parker, Edmonton, Can.

Useful Periscope Which a Boy Can Make

Mention of periscopes is quite common in the reports from European

battle fields; such a device in a simple form can be made easily by

boys who have fair skill with tools. The illustration shows a periscope

which may be used for play, and has other practical uses as well. In a

store or other place where a person on duty cannot watch all parts of

the establishment, such a device is convenient in that it will reflect

persons entering the door. As a toy or for experimental purposes the

periscope shown has many possibilities, and will appeal to youngsters.

[Illustration: This Simple Periscope Is Useful Both for Play and

Practical Purposes]

It consists of a square box, 18 in. long, open at the ends. It is 3¹⁄₂

in. wide and made of wood, ³⁄₈ in. thick. A mirror is fitted at an

angle of 45° near one end of the box or tube, as shown in the sketch.

The front of the mirror is opposite a three-cornered opening in the

box which extends across one side. The opposite end of the tube is

also fitted with a mirror in the same manner, except that the front

of the mirror faces to the opposite side of the box at which there is

also an opening. In using this device, the user sights from the point

indicated by the eye. The image is reflected in the mirror at the top

and thrown onto the lower mirror, where it may be seen without exposing

the head above the level of the lower opening. It is this application

of reflection by mirrors that makes it possible for soldiers to see

distant objects without exposing themselves to fire, by the use of the

periscope.

Trap for Coyotes

[Illustration: By Drawing on the Wire the Coyotes were Brought under

Control and Forced from Their Lair]

Two coyotes, resisting capture in a hole under a lava ledge, were

hauled forth quickly when the device shown in the sketch was used,

after other means had proved ineffective.

I made a snare of baling wire and attached it to a pole, 6 ft. long,

running the wire down from the loop to the end of the handle. The loop

was made about twice the size of the coyote’s head, and, by drawing on

the wire at the handle, the animals were placed under control and held

at a safe distance.--Contributed by Milton Barth, Geyserville, Cal.

Utilizing an Empty Paste Pot

[Illustration: A Pincushion Built to Fit the Empty Paste Compartment

Makes a Useful Article of the Paste Pot]

The type of paste pot that contains a central well to hold the paste

brush is not always cast aside when empty. A pincushion built to fit

the outer ring, or paste-holding section, is added and the brush holder

is used to hold pens and pencils.

* * * * *

¶A magnet may be used to advantage in picking up tacks or small nails

which have been scattered on a floor.

A Colonial Mirror Frame

Black walnut, or mahogany, is the most effective wood to use in making

this simple but artistic frame. It requires a very small amount of

stock and what is used should be of a good quality and carefully worked

to the given dimensions with keen tools. The stock required for the

frame is as follows:

Black walnut, or mahogany:

2 pieces, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick.

1 piece, 22 in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick.

1 piece 9¹⁄₄ in. long, 1³⁄₈ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick.

White holly:

1 piece, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick.

Picture board:

1 piece, 25 in. long, 9 in. wide, and ¹⁄₈ in. thick.

The dimensions for the walnut or mahogany pieces are rough sizes,

oversize to allow for the planing to the dimensions given in the

sketch. The white holly may be procured smoothly planed on both sides

and of the exact thickness required. The picture backing may be

purchased in almost any store that sells frames. It is usually rough

pine and inexpensive.

The first operation is to plane the frame pieces on one side and edge,

using great care to insure both being perfectly straight and the edge

square with the face. Gauge for, and plane to the thickness required,

although this need not be exactly ⁵⁄₈ in. as called for, but if the

stock will stand ¹¹⁄₁₆ in. or ³⁄₄ in. do not take the time to cut it

down to ⁵⁄₈ in. The little cross rail must be exactly ¹⁄₈ in. thick, as

it is to be let ¹⁄₈ in. into the rabbet cut for the glass, which makes

it come ¹⁄₈ in. back from the face of the frame when it is in place.

Plane all of these pieces to the width, 1¹⁄₈ inch.

For cutting the rabbet, a plow, or a ³⁄₄-in. grooving, plane is the

best tool to use, but if neither is available a rabbet plane can be

used. Be sure to plane the rabbet square and to the lines gauged for

the depth and width.

To groove the pieces for the holly strips a special tool is required.

This may be made of a piece of soft sheet steel or iron, which must

be of a thickness to correspond to that of the holly. A piece 2¹⁄₂

in. long, and of almost any width, will answer the purpose. File one

edge of the metal straight, and cut saw teeth in it by filing straight

across with a small saw file. Remove the burr raised by the filing by

rubbing each side on an oilstone. Drill two holes in it for fastening

with screws to a piece of hard wood. The wood serves as a fence, and if

properly fastened to the metal, the teeth should cut a groove ¹⁄₁₆ in.

deep and ³⁄₁₆ in. from the edge. The holly strip should fit the groove

tightly so that it can be driven home with light taps of a hammer. It

is well to try the tool on a bit of waste wood first to see if it cuts

the groove properly.

The holly is cut into strips, ¹⁄₈ in. wide with a slitting gauge. An

ordinary marking gauge, with the spur filed flat on each side to make a

sharp, deep line, will do very well for this work. The gauging is done

from both sides of the piece to make the spur cut halfway through from

each side. Before the slitting is attempted, one edge of the piece is

first straightened. This is readily accomplished with a fore plane,

laid on its side and used as a shoot plane. The strip to be planed

is laid flat on a piece of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock with one edge projecting

slightly. This raises it above the bench and allows the fore plane to

be worked against the projecting edge.

The strips should be applied to the groove to test the fit, and if

found to be tight, they must be tapered slightly by filing or scraping

the sides. If the fit is good, hot glue may be run into the grooves

with a sharp stick, and the strips driven into place. They will project

above the surface slightly, but no attempt should be made to plane them

off flush until the glue has become thoroughly hardened; then use a

sharp plane, and finish with a scraper and No. 00 sandpaper.

The miters are cut in a miter box, or planed to the exact 45° angle on

a miter shoot board. Before gluing the corners, the recesses are cut

for the cross rail, but it must not be put in place until the corners

of the frame have been fastened and the glue given time to dry.

[Illustration: An Inlay of Holly Makes an Exceedingly Pretty Frame of

Colonial Design for a Mirror]

The frame may be given either a dull or bright finish. The dull finish

gives a rich appearance and is very easy to apply. Give the completed

frame one coat of white shellac, and when it is dry, rub the surface

with very fine sandpaper until it has a smooth finish. Finish with any

of the prepared waxes, being careful to follow the directions furnished.

Before putting the board back of the mirror, be sure to place two or

three sheets of clean paper on the silvered surface. The picture board

is fastened with glazier’s points, or with small bung-head wire nails.

The back is finished by gluing a sheet of heavy wrapping paper to the

edges of the frame. If the wrapping paper is moistened with a damp

cloth before it is applied, it will dry out smooth and tightly drawn

over the back.

* * * * *

¶An emergency penholder may be made by fixing the pen on the end of a

pencil with a clip, or small rubber band.

A Turntable Stand for Potted Flowers

[Illustration]

Potted flowers, if kept in the house, tend to grow toward the light.

From time to time the pot should be turned. To do this more readily,

the turntable stand shown in the sketch was designed. It is made up of

a low, four-legged taboret upon which a 12-in. disk of 1-in. wood is

fixed with a screw. A thin wooden washer, sandpapered and shellacked,

insures easy turning. Rectangular boxes or circular jars look equally

well upon the stand, the beauty of which depends much upon its

workmanship and finish.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.

Index for Popular Mechanics Magazine on Bookshelf

[Illustration]

As it would be impossible to keep in one’s mind all the good ideas

given in Popular Mechanics Magazine, I preserve my back numbers for

reference, and, to reduce the amount of index and page searching, I

have adopted a convenient plan of indexing any special article to which

I expect to refer. I write, on one end of a strip of paper, the page

and date of issue of the article. I place these slips at the proper

pages in the magazine, so as to project at the top, as shown, making

reference easy. If a slip drops out, it is quickly replaced. When

articles are no longer needed for reference, the slips are removed. By

keeping the magazines on an open shelf they can be reached handily,

for reference as well as for removing them from the shelf.--J. E.

McCormack, Haliburton, Ont., Can.

Trimming Board with Foot Control and Counterweight

[Illustration]

A trimming board with the knife operated by a pedal, leaving both hands

free to handle the work, is a device appreciated by photographers,

commercial artists, and others who have more or less heavy paper or

cardboard to trim. An ordinary trimming board is mounted on a packing

box of suitable dimensions, as shown. A pedal is hinged to the bottom

of the box, and a heavy cord, or wire, runs to the handle of the

knife, so that pressure on the pedal operates the knife. The latter

is returned by a weighted rope, passing over a pulley attached to a

standard at the rear corner.--H. F. Blanchard, New York, N. Y.

Folding Card Table Handy for Invalid in Bed

When it is necessary to serve a meal to a patient in bed, and no

invalid table is at hand, use an ordinary folding card or serving

table. Unfold one end over the bed, and a splendid substitute table is

provided, useful for reading, games, and other purposes. If the table

rests too low on the bed, adjust it with cushions. This is far more

convenient than using a tray.--John P. Rupp, Norwalk, Ohio.

Morris Chair with Newspaper Rack, and Smoker’s Trays

BY J. E. Bronson

A comfortable and novel after-dinner chair for the man in the household

can be made by fitting a morris chair, or other armchair, with devices

which appeal especially to a man. The chair shown is that of the

ordinary mission morris type. It is of simple outline and can be made

by the home mechanic of fair skill in furniture making. The details of

its construction, while not essential to a description of the special

fittings, are shown in the several working drawings. The joints used

for the framework are of the common mortise-and-tenon variety. The back

is a plain frame, fitted with vertical slats, and hinged to a shoulder

in the back legs, as shown in the side view. For a substantial piece of

furniture, oak or other hard wood should be used; as a piece of porch

or summer-cottage furniture, the chair may be made of softer woods.

The cushion can be made of various leathers, or upholstery fabrics. It

is built over a wooden frame and is removable. The seat bottom may be

paneled, and a loose cushion fitted into it, and a similar one bound

with thongs to the back of the chair.

The drawer is slightly different from the standard construction in that

the front is arranged as a blind rail. It fits snugly between the front

legs and is suspended from strips fitted between the pairs of legs at

the sides.

No handle is provided, as the drawer can be opened easily by grasping

it underneath the front board. Pipes, smoker’s supplies, or a variety

of other articles may be stored handily in it.

[Illustration: These Novel Features of a Morris or Armchair Increase

Its Comfort and Usefulness, and can be Made Easily by the Home Mechanic]

The newspaper rack, as detailed, is made up of strips forming a basket,

which supported by a rod pivoted in wooden hangers, one on each of the

side legs, adjoining the rack. When papers are not being taken out or

placed in it, the rack is tilted back against the side of the chair

arm. The ash and tobacco trays, which may be made large enough for

cigars, are suspended under the right chair arm by means of rings made

of strips of brass. These holders are pivoted on bolts, and the trays

can be removed easily for cleaning. They are ordinarily swung out of

the way, under the arm. The special features of the chair may also be

adapted to the needs of nonsmokers.

* * * * *

¶The nuisance of soiled fingers and pen grip in lettering, when using

a deep ink bottle, can be avoided by filling a bottle up to the neck

with cement, and using only the neck as an inkwell.

Homemade Talking-Machine Cabinet

An old six-foot folding screen, three-ply ¹⁄₄-in. panels from a packing

box, and parts from secondhand talking machines, were used to make the

cabinet shown in the photograph reproduced. The screen was cut down to

form a framework of the desired height for the sides and back. Other

parts of the screen were used for the frames of the doors on the front,

and for the top. The panels were made from a good quality of three-ply

stock, with a hardwood face, which was scraped, sandpapered, and

brought to a very smooth finish. The material happened to have a pretty

grain, and this added to the effect when it was stained and varnished.

Pieces of this stock were used for the sounding horn and for other

interior fittings, such as the shelves for records and the drawer below

the horn. Space is provided for a large supply of records.

[Illustration: A Cabinet was Made by an Amateur Woodworker at a Cost of

$16.35 for Materials]

A secondhand two-spring motor, a turntable, and a sound arm from a disk

machine were fitted into the cabinet, and gave excellent service. Care

in staining the woodwork, shellacking, and varnishing it with several

coats, gave the cabinet almost a commercial finish, and at a cost of

$16.35 for all materials.

Eggshells as Flowerpots

[Illustration: Seeds were planted in the Eggshells, Which were Broken

without Disturbing the Roots When Transplanted]

A novel method of caring for small plants until they are ready to be

set out in the garden is shown in the photograph reproduced. Holes

were bored in the bottom of the till of an old trunk and eggshells

fitted into them. Seeds were planted in the shells and the names of the

varieties were marked on them. The arrangement is compact, and when the

plants are ready for planting, the shells may be broken, and the plants

set without disturbing the roots--Charles Darlington, Des Moines, Ia.

A Recording Annunciator Target

In rifle practice it is often desirable to provide a target which will

indicate to the marksman when the bull’s-eye is struck. The device

shown in the sketch, arranged behind an ordinary card target, has given

satisfactory results on a private range, and can easily be adapted for

other uses.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

The Bullet Forces the Hinge against the Thumbscrew, Causing the Bell to

Ring]

Referring to Fig. 1, A indicates a wooden base, 4 by 8 by ¹⁄₂ in., on

which is mounted a strap hinge, B, 6¹⁄₂ in. long, by means of a block,

1³⁄₈ in. high. An opening, C, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, is provided in the

base, and a plate, D 1³⁄₄ in. square, is riveted to the strap hinge

opposite to the opening. An electromagnet, E, obtained from an electric

bell, is mounted upon the base under the small end of the hinge. A

standard, F, provided with a cross arm, G, is secured upon the base

between the opening and the magnet. A thumbscrew with a locknut extends

through the cross arm, engaging the rear side of the strap hinge,

and permits an adjustment of distance between the core of the magnet

and the surface of the hinge. A bell or buzzer, H, is connected as

indicated, through the battery circuit. The electromagnet is connected

through the battery and push button J.

The strap hinge normally rests against the electromagnet. The force of

any projectile passing through the opening against the plate closes

the bell circuit and indicates to the marksman that the bull’s-eye has

been hit. By the closing of the magnet circuit, the strap hinge is

drawn again into normal position and the bell circuit is broken. Figure

2 shows a front view of the circuit-closing device. The device may

be mounted in any suitable box, as suggested in Fig. 3. The front of

the box is covered with sheet metal, ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick, and the standard

target card is mounted thereon.--John B. Brady, Washington, D. C.

* * * * *

¶A convenient method of holding paper in a roll is to fasten a wire

clip at each end near the edge of the piece.

Scraper for Tennis Court

[Illustration: A Tennis Court was Smoothed and Leveled by the Use of

This Scraper, Made Quickly of Rough Lumber]

In order to level and scrape a tennis court, which was in bad

condition, the two-man scraper shown in the sketch was made. It is

built of rough lumber, and a metal shoe is fixed to the lower edge

of the scraping blade at the rear. The bearing at the front is on a

flat-bottom sled of wood, and the depth of the cut is regulated by

pressure on the handle. The scraping blade is set at an angle, as shown

in the smaller sketch. By lifting the handle slightly, the operator is

able to deposit dirt in holes so that when the court is rolled they

are filled evenly. Where a large number of courts are to be smoothed,

the device may be adapted and made large enough to be drawn by a

horse.--Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Wash.

Barrel Staves as Springs for Play Auto

I made springs for a small foot-power automobile by using barrel

staves joined together in the shape of pointed oval wagon springs.

Two strong staves were nailed together at each end and braced with a

block where they were nailed. Two of these springs were placed over the

rear axle and one of them was set over the front axle extending in the

direction of its length. The wooden springs made the automobile ride

comfortably.--Charles Delbridge, St. Louis, Mo.

Hall Seat with Storage Compartment

[Illustration: Details Showing the Construction of a Hall Seat to be

Made in Mission Style]

The illustration represents a simple design for an easily made and

substantial hall seat, provided with a compartment for odds and ends.

It is advisable to make it of wood to match its surroundings. The

following material is necessary:

2 ends, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 28 in

2 rails, ⁷⁄₈ by 6 by 38 in.

1 seat board, ⁷⁄₈ by 14 by 36¹⁄₄ in.

1 bottom board, ⁷⁄₈ by 12¹⁄₄ by 36¹⁄₄ in.

2 seat cleats, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 12¹⁄₄ in.

2 bottom cleats, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 11¹⁄₂ in.

The two ends, A, are marked to the same outline and cut with a coping

or scroll saw. If a fine-toothed saw is used, the edges of the boards

can be easily smoothed with sandpaper, otherwise a file is necessary to

remove the coarse saw traces. The rails B are cut to size and squared

up at the ends, after which they can be placed at the proper places

on the ends A, which may then be marked for the notches to receive

the rails. In fastening the rails to the end pieces, 2-in. round-head

screws can be used. The seat C is attached to the back rail by 2-in.

butt hinges. To prevent the seat from sagging in the middle, it is

supported on each side by cleats screwed to the end pieces A. If the

seat is liable to warp it can be held straight by two cleats screwed

underneath. The bottom board D may be held in place by means of screws

through the rails, or by resting on cleats screwed to the end pieces.

The seat, when assembled and thoroughly sandpapered, can be finished to

suit.

Putting In Screw Hooks Neatly

To prevent a wire hook, when the last few turns are given, from marring

or scratching the surface, special care must be taken. A splendid way

to do the work neatly is to first lay a piece of stiff paper on the

surface where the hook is to be attached and hold it in place while

starting the screw hook. Turn the hook in the usual way through the

paper. When the hook is in place the paper can be removed by tearing it

off.--Contributed by Emile Parent.

A Window Ventilator

[Illustration: A Removable Window Board to Raise Lower Sash for

Ventilation between the Sashes]

The illustration shows a ventilator I constructed to allow air to pass

through between the upper and lower window sash. It consists of a board

8 or 10 in. wide, and as long as the window sash is wide. A short

distance from one end it is marked and cut on a slant. The small piece

removed is hinged to the main part so that it can be raised in taking

the board from the window. When the sash rests on the board it cannot

be removed from the window.--Contributed by David Hannigan, Orange,

Connecticut.

[Illustration: An Inexpensive Gluing Press

BY N. E. STUDEBAKER]

The floor space in our high-school shop is somewhat limited, leaving no

room on the floor for the gluing press, and during a large part of the

year the temperature on the floor is too low for gluing. We met these

conditions with the gluing press illustrated.

Three pairs, or sets, of steps, A, were made of pine, 2 in. thick,

and fastened in a series by strips B, so that they all would move

forward or backward between the guides C, which are nailed to the floor

above the shop. On one of the steps--the corresponding one in each

pair--rests a piece of wood, D, 4 in. wide and 2 in. thick, through

which, near its ends, are bored holes to receive lengths of 1-in. gas

pipe, E. Over these holes and screwed to the wood piece are 1-in. floor

flanges, F. The pipes E are threaded at one end so that they will screw

through the floor flanges about 3 in. On the other ends of the gas

pipes are fitted pieces of material, 4 in. wide and 2 in. thick, G,

resting on washers, which in turn rest on the locknuts H. The locknuts

H prevent the tees J from unscrewing in operating the press. A rod is

used through the tees as a handle for screwing the pipes E on or out of

the floor flanges F. On top of the pieces G rests the floor K, on which

are placed the pieces to be glued. On the under side of the ceiling

joists, and directly over the floor K, is spiked the 2-in. piece L,

between which piece and the floor K the material is pressed. For the

sake of stiffness and lightness the floor K is built up of 1-in.

material, as shown in the detail. This floor may be raised or lowered

by the windlass M. The windlass is simply a ³⁄₄-in. gas pipe turning in

bearings fastened to the under side of the ceiling joists.

[Illustration: The Gluing Press is Attached to the Ceiling Where It Is

Out of the Way and Where the Temperature Is More Correct for Making a

Strong-Holding Joint]

Supposing the press to be standing as shown in the drawings, it is

operated as follows: The pipes E are unscrewed so that their upper

ends are flush with the top surface of the floor flanges F. The ropes

N are wound up a trifle on the windlass M, thus raising the pieces D,

the pipes E, and the floor K. Lifting D clear of the steps releases

the latter so that the entire series may be moved to the right by

pulling the rope O. In unwinding the ropes from the windlass, D is let

down on the lowest step, which has just been drawn directly under it.

This operation lowers the floor K to its lowest limit and the pieces

to be glued are placed, one on the other, on this floor. If the total

thickness of the material to be glued is sufficient to nearly fill the

space between the floor and the piece L, a rod is thrust through J, and

the pipes are screwed up, thus pressing the material between the floor

K and the piece L. If, however, the material does not fill the space

well, then the ropes N are wound up on the windlass M, thus raising

the floor and its contents as far as possible, and by pulling the rope

P the steps are drawn as far to the left as possible and D rests on a

higher step, thus lessening the space to be taken up by the screws. The

pipes are then screwed up tightly as in the first operation. Our press

is operated from a mezzanine floor where all the gluing is done.

A Luminous-Minnow Fish Bait

Make a plug of light wood, preferably cedar or white pine, 1³⁄₄ in.

long and ³⁄₄ in. in diameter at the large end, tapering to ¹⁄₄ in. at

the small end. Finish it to the shape of a minnow and bore a ⁵⁄₁₆-in.

hole, 1 in. deep, in the large end. Make a lead plug, with a hole

through the center, to drive tightly into the hole in the head of the

minnow, and finish the front end smooth and even with the wood. Run

a wire through the minnow and form an eye at the tail for hooks, and

another at the head for the swivel. A three-cornered piece of tin

inserted ¹⁄₂ in. back of the head on each side and bent so that the

water will cause it to turn gives motion to the lure.

[Illustration: Bait Shaped Like a Minnow and Coated with Luminous Paint

for Night Fishing]

Two coats of luminous paint will be sufficient for the illumination.

Expose the minnow to the light for several hours, and it will give a

luminous glow in the dark that makes it easily seen by the fish as it

is drawn through the water. As most game fish are night feeders, it

makes a very effective lure.--Contributed by Charles Carrol, Saint

Cloud, Fla.

To Prevent Putty Sticking to the Hands

When purchasing putty buy a little whiting. This is one of the

ingredients of the putty. Mix enough of it with the putty to absorb the

excess oil. This will prevent it from sticking to the hands. It also

gives the putty more body and makes it much easier to handle.

Signal for Lighted Lights in Basement

[Illustration: The Small Lamp near the Switch in Circuit Glows When

Lights Are On in the Basement]

To avoid the loss of electric current by forgetting to turn out the

light in the basement, I placed a 3-cp. lamp in the circuit near the

switch at the head of the stairs. The small light is a signal that the

light is still turned on in the basement.--Contributed by A. MacCunn,

Toronto, Can.

Dies for Cutting Cardboard

An inexpensive, yet very efficient, die for cutting quantities of tin

foil, sheet lead, paper, and cardboard can be made from a steel rule

such as used by printers. Procure a rule, two points or about ¹⁄₃₂

in. thick, which comes in 2-ft. lengths. The rule can be readily bent

without annealing. Bend it to the desired shape and solder, or weld,

the ends together. To give it rigidity, fill in the space with melted

lead to a depth of half the height of the die.

Place the material to be cut against the die and put both into a

vise, or letter press. Apply pressure steadily until the die has cut

through the last thickness of the material. As many as 5 pieces can be

placed and cut at one time. When cutting designs for static machines,

etc., from tin foil, this appliance does away with the tedious work

of cutting one at a time, and then, too, they will all be uniform.

In making the connection at the ends of the rule, be sure that they

meet evenly and do not lap to make the joint.--Contributed by M. H.

Granholt, Long Beach, Cal.

How to Make a Vacuum Pail

As a substitute for a vacuum bottle a very efficient pail can be made

in the following manner: Procure a 1-gal. sirup pail for the outside

and a ¹⁄₂-gal. size for the inside. Make a collar of tin, as shown,

with projections; bend these down, inside and outside, then solder the

collar to the inside of the larger pail, and the smaller pail to the

inside of the collar. Be sure to make a perfectly air-tight joint in

the soldering. This gives a double wall with an air-tight space all

around the inner pail, or opening. To make vacuum covers for the pails,

take two covers of each size and solder them together, as shown.

[Illustration: A Two-Wall Pail with Covers in Which a Partial Vacuum is

Made]

To produce a vacuum, make a small hole in the metal forming the collar,

also one in each cover. Put a few drops of water in each vacuum

compartment and set the parts on a heated surface. When the steam

escapes, solder the holes. This will produce a partial vacuum in the

space around the inner pail and in the covers. This will make a very

efficient vacuum pail.--Contributed by John H. Spicer, Magnolia, Ark.

Ironing Board for Use on a Table

[Illustration: A Cleat Fastened to the Underside of an Ironing Board to

Hold It on the Table Top]

A handy ironing board for use on kitchen or dining-table top is made

with a cleat to keep it from moving across the table top. The cleat,

which is 1¹⁄₂ or 2 in. wide, is fastened to the board with screws. If

desired, the board can be made as immovable as the table top by putting

another cleat at one end, so that the two cleats will hold against

one side and one edge of the table top.--Contributed by H. S. Craig,

Rushford, Minn.

Combination Bookcase and Writing Desk

In planning a writing desk, much convenience can be added by providing

it with a bookcase, in which may be stored those reference works most

frequently used. The design illustrated furnishes ample room as a

drawing desk, besides providing sufficient space in an inclosed cabinet

for books or letter-filing cases.

[Illustration: Combined Bookcase and Writing Desk Which can be Made Up

in Golden Oak, Mission, or Mahoganized Birch, and will Appear Well with

Other Furniture of Like Construction]

The material required, figuring exact sizes, is as follows:

2 sides, ⁷⁄₈ by 16¹⁄₂ by 67 in.

1 bottom shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 12 by 32¹⁄₄ in.

1 top shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 9¹⁄₄ by 32¹⁄₄ in.

1 back, ³⁄₈ by 40 by 31 in., made of pieces of convenient widths.

1 desk board, ⁷⁄₈ by 16¹⁄₈ by 30 in.

1 lower bookcase shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 9¹⁄₈ by 30 in.

1 middle bookcase shelf, ⁷⁄₈ by 8³⁄₈ by 30 in.

1 desk cover, ⁷⁄₈ by 15¹⁄₂ by 30 in.

1 upper back rail, ⁷⁄₈ by 5 by 30 in.

Bookcase Doors

4 stiles, ³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ by 19 in.

4 rails, ³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₄ by 13¹⁄₂ in.

2 mullions, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 17¹⁄₂ in.

2 mullions, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 13¹⁄₂ in.

1 pigeon-hole stock, ³⁄₈ by 7 by 72 in.

For Main Drawer

1 front, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 30 in.

2 sides, ³⁄₈ by 4 by 15¹⁄₂ in.

1 back, ³⁄₈ by 3¹⁄₄ by 29¹⁄₂ in.

1 bottom, ³⁄₈ by 15¹⁄₄ by 29¹⁄₂ in.

2 drawer slides, ⁷⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ by 15 in.

1 lower rail, ⁷⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ by 30 in.

1 molding strip, ¹⁄₄ by ³⁄₈ by 120 in.

As the main sides are of considerable width, it would be best to make

them of two pieces glued together and, in order to obtain a strong and

neat joint, to have this done by an experienced joiner, or in the mill.

The back edges should be carefully planed, and rabbeted ³⁄₈ in. deep by

¹⁄₂ in. wide for the ³⁄₈-in. thick back. The bottom or foot piece of

the sides should be squared up with the back edges, or the completed

desk is liable to be winding, or warped. The bottom and top shelves or

main cross braces should be marked and cut out, and, to be in harmony

with the shape of the sides, the lower-shelf tenons are made wider than

those on the upper shelf. The top shelf should be rabbeted ¹⁄₂ in. deep

by ³⁄₈ in. wide, to fit the back boards which are nailed to it. The

required mortises in the sidepieces are marked from the corresponding

tenons of the shelves, and can then be cut out with a chisel. When

finished, the four parts constituting the frame should be assembled,

and may be held together with blind screws, or dowel pins, passed

through the tenons.

The desk board and two library shelves should then be fitted, and

fastened in place with blind screws through the sides, or with cleats

from the inside. For a neat, finished appearance, the back boards

should be carefully joined, exposing no cracks, and fastened with

nails driven into the various shelves. The upper rail, resting on the

bookcase, and the lower rail, forming part of the drawer support, can

then be fitted and secured to the sides with blind screws, either from

the outside or diagonally through the rails from the inside. Drawer

slides are fitted in place flush with the top edge of the lower rail,

and fastened to the sides with screws.

In making the drawer, the usual construction should be followed. The

front piece should be rabbeted near its lower edge to fit the drawer

bottom, and notched ¹⁄₂ in. at each end to fit the sides. The bottom

and end pieces fit into grooves cut in the sides. Suitable drawer pulls

or knobs should be provided.

For the doors of the bookcase, the best construction would be to tenon

the rails into the stiles about ¹⁄₂ in. The glass panel fits in a

notch, ¹⁄₂ in. deep and ¹⁄₄ in. wide, cut around the inside ledge of

the door, and is held in position with molding strips. In order to give

the door an appearance of being divided into four parts, mullions, or

cross strips, are fitted on the outer side of the glass flush with

the rails and stiles, and fastened to them with brads. The doors are

attached with butt hinges.

In making the desk door, a specially selected board should be used, as

the finished appearance of the desk will greatly depend on this. The

ends and sides should be perfectly squared, and the lower or hinge end

cut beveled corresponding to the edge of the desk board. Butt hinges

are used to secure it in position, and hinged brackets or chains

provided to support it when open. When closed, it rests against a strip

fastened to the lower side of the bottom bookcase shelf.

In arranging the pigeonholes it is best to have the inside boards

rest on the desk board, so that, when desired, the entire arrangement

of the drawers and shelves may be withdrawn easily. When thoroughly

sandpapered and finished to taste, a serviceable, handy and attractive

piece of furniture is obtained, suitable for either office or

home.--Contributed by James Gaffney, Chicago.

Automatic Stop for Spring-Roller Curtains

[Illustration: The Rubber Ball Fastened on the String at the Stick

Prevents the Curtain from Winding Up]

It frequently occurs, in adjusting spring-roller curtains, that the

cord slips through the hand and the curtain not only winds up to the

top but continues until the spring has spent its force, and the curtain

and cord are rolled up out of reach. It is then necessary to use a

chair, or stepladder, to readjust it. All this trouble and annoyance

can be avoided if a small hollow rubber ball is obtained, and holes

punched through so it may be threaded on the curtain string, and tied

close to the stick. Should the curtain slip away with this attachment,

the ball will jam up against the window frame, preventing further

winding up.--Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago, Ill.

Spoon Attachment to Prevent Child from Using Left Hand

[Illustration: The Projection Keeps the Spoon from Entering the Mouth

When Taken in the Left Hand]

To discourage a child from using a spoon in the left hand, a

projection was made of a piece of brass, filed into the shape shown

in the illustration. After the projection was attached, the entire

spoon was plated. This makes it impossible to use the spoon in the

left hand, as the projection will prevent the bowl from entering the

mouth.--Contributed by W. H. Hutchinson, Hamilton, Ont.

A High Chair

[Illustration: An Inverted Solid-Bottom Chair with Attachments Used for

a Child’s High Chair]

Where a high chair is not at hand or available, an ordinary

solid-bottom kitchen chair can be used instead, if rigged up as shown

in the illustration. The chair is reversed, and the back is used as one

support, while two pieces of wood fastened to the sides form the other.

A seat board is fastened to the upper side rounds, and a table board

to the two lower side rounds. A small piece is nailed to the two back

posts for a back.--Contributed by J. S. Fritzen, Minneapolis, Minn.

Blower for a Fireplace

Having considerable trouble with a smoky fireplace when trying to start

a coal fire in the basket grate, I decided to make a blower of sheet

iron. A blower covers the upper part of the fireplace and forces the

draft through the basket grate until the fire gets a good start, then

it can be removed. Before making the blower I again had trouble one

morning when the chimney would not draw, and the whole room became

filled with smoke; I then grabbed a newspaper and held it up against

the upper part of the fireplace like a regular blower. To my surprise

the suction of the chimney held the newspaper in place without any

outside aid. In a few minutes the fire was roaring, and best of all,

when it became hot, the newspaper caught fire and was sucked into the

flames. This in reality became an automatic blower, as it removed

itself when no longer needed.--Contributed by Charles F. Kopp, Amite,

La.

An Ironing-Board Wall Fastening

[Illustration: Ironing Board Supported on Wood Hinges at the Wall to

Provide a Space for the Covering]

One of the most useful and convenient articles for a household is an

ironing board, one end of which is fastened to the wall by means of

hinges to allow it to be folded up against the wall when not in use.

Wood brackets are preferable to the metal hinges, as there must be some

little space between the wall and the board to allow for the thickness

of the covering. The brace which extends from near the end of the board

to the base of the wall is best hinged with canvas strips, as they will

last better than any other material for this joint. The hinges should

be put in place when the board is in a vertical position to allow

the brace to go in position without straining.--Contributed by J. H.

Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.

Oars Flattened to Make Rowing Easier

When rowing a small boat, we were bothered by the turning of the oars

in the locks, so that the blade of the oar was not in proper position

to take the water. We overcame this by planing off slightly one side

of the oar, so that when this surface was against the lock, the blade

was in the correct position to catch the water. It is unnecessary to

grip these oars tightly, as they fall naturally into place and save

the novice a great deal of trouble. In locks where this method is

undesirable, the handgrips may be cut as a guide.--H. D. Burnside,

Madison, Wis.

A One-Piece Bracelet Cut from a Calling Card

[Illustration: It Is Hard to Imitate a Quick and Skillful Performance

of This Simple Trick]

A trick that will amuse and interest persons both old and young can

be performed with a calling card, cigarette paper, or other similar

material, cut with a scissors or knife, as indicated in the diagram.

The card is shown, and the performer announces that he will pass his

hand through the card, making a bracelet of it. He will, of course, be

challenged, and proceeds as follows: He folds the card lengthwise and

cuts through two thicknesses from 1 to 2, 3 to 4, etc.; then opens the

card, and cuts from 1 to 13. By stretching the paper, as shown in the

sketch, the hand may be passed through the card readily. The spectators

are soon trying to duplicate the trick.--R. E. Jones, Velasco, Texas.

Device for a Finger Tug-of-War Game

Considerable pleasure and pastime was afforded by the tug-of-war game

which I made. Two contestants, one at each end, take hold of the

rollers with their forefingers and thumbs and endeavor to move the

pointer to their respective ends. The game interests persons of various

ages, and they all want to try it.

[Illustration: The Contestants Grasp the Rollers, One at Each End, and

Attempt to Draw the Pointer Over in Their Favor]

The device should be made strongly to stand the wear on it. The top and

bottom are boards, ¹⁄₂ by 8 by 24 in., and four blocks, 3 in. high and

2¹⁄₂ in. square, are fastened between them at the corners with screws.

The rollers are set in the blocks, and held by small nails passing

through them and set against the inner faces of the blocks. The pointer

is made of a strip of brass, bent to the shape shown. Cords extend from

the pointer inside of the box and are tied to the rollers.--James E.

Noble, Kingston, Ontario, Can.

* * * * *

¶In applying a white paint over a dark, or mottled, surface, tint the

first coat with a little black, making it gray; then the next coat

will show solid white.

Window Frame and Table for Dark Room

BY JOSEPH LIMBRUNNER

The amateur photographer often has a poor dark room, sometimes made

worse by the use of an evil-smelling lamp. If he wishes to use a room

that has daylight, he finds it difficult to convert the room quickly

for his purposes, especially if he desires to make use of the daylight

for his work. Under these conditions, the arrangement described in

this article was devised, and proved so satisfactory that I pass it on

to the host of amateurs who find satisfaction in making part of their

equipment. The table and window frame in place are shown in Fig. 1.

The table is removed by withdrawing the rod, and bending up the hinged

legs. The frame and window covering are removed by releasing the four

small hooks. Ruby, yellow, or ground glass may be inserted in the

sliding frame, as required, nearly all of the light being shut out, or

light admitted without a glass, by sliding the frame.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

With This Sliding Frame and Folding Table, the Work of the Photographic

Dark Room can be Done by Daylight in the Home Bathroom]

The general arrangement of the parts is shown in Fig. 2. The dimensions

are suggestive only, being suited to a small window in a bathroom,

where the equipment was installed. The table is merely a board top

supported by hinged legs, which are braced by a removable round wooden

rod. A frame, C, as detailed in the section at A-B, Fig. 3, is fitted

closely in the window casing. It is covered with heavy cardboard,

tacked on. The ways J, in which the frame for the glass slides, are

fixed to the lower rail of the frame C, and to a crossbar at its

middle. A 5 by 7-in. opening is cut in the cardboard to admit the

light, as shown in Fig. 2. Holes D are bored in the ways to receive

pins which hold the frame at various positions, as indicated by the

stop holes E, Fig. 4.

The sliding frame is detailed in Fig. 4. It consists of a back frame

of ¹⁄₂-in. wood, sliding in the grooves of the ways J, and a frame of

1-in. stuff, mounted on the front of it. The openings may be made to

suit the size of plate to be used, 5 by 7-in. openings being indicated.

The openings are provided with rabbeted edges, as indicated by the

width G, and the height H, in which frames of light weight, for the 5

by 7-in. glass plates, are fitted. The frames may be made, or plain,

cheap picture frames may be used. The sliding frame is raised and

lowered by means of the handle F. The cardboard covering the larger

frame should be painted a dull black, and the wooden parts may be

shellacked in the natural color.

When developing films or plates, the frames with the red and yellow

glasses should be inserted in the sliding frame, and held in place

by turn buttons. The red glass will ordinarily be satisfactory for

developing, but on very bright days, with the sun shining directly on

the glass, a layer or two of “post-office” paper is placed over it.

The yellow glass may be used when fixing, and other work requiring a

subdued light, but not when developing is done. For printing, put in

the yellow and the ground glasses, the latter admitting sufficient

light for the purpose. To use the dark room occasionally in the

evening, I set a lamp on a well-protected shelf outside of the opening

in the cardboard, and proceed as in the use of daylight.

Non-Blow-Out Cigar and Pipe Lighter

[Illustration]

“It is a poor Irishman that cannot light his pipe when the wind is

blowing,” but the sketch shows a device that will make a “Paddy” out of

anyone, with a great saving of matches. It is made from a small piece

of brass tubing, or drawn shell, ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, and about 1¹⁄₂

in. long. The open end is placed in the bowl of the pipe or over the

end of the cigar, a match inserted through the slot, and a quick stroke

on the threaded portion ignites the match. The small holes provide air.

The top is soldered in place.--James H. Rodgers, Montreal, Canada.

Electric Counting Glass for Thread Fabric

The intelligent housewife and shopper, as well as persons

professionally interested in the structure and quality of woven fabrics

of various kinds, can make good use of a counting glass for close

examination of such material. In its simplest form the device consists

of a cigar box with a ground-glass top and a small electric light

inside. Where larger pieces of goods are to be examined a small table

with wooden legs and wooden frame for the glass may be made.

[Illustration: Woven Fabrics are Examined under the Magnifying Glass

and the Number of Threads to the Square Inch Counted]

The diagrams at A and B represent the threads making up the cloth as

stretched on the rollers of a loom. The lengthwise threads, or warp,

are shown at A, and the cross threads, or weft, at B. By magnifying

the material with a glass exposing an area of ¹⁄₂ or 1 in. square, the

threads may be counted or closely examined and the quality determined.

This also enables one to identify goods as being the same.--F. Ball

Pinkus, La Crescenta, California.

* * * * *

¶An inexperienced workman broke eight curved window panes on a lake

steamer by attempting to cut them on the inside, instead of on the

outside of the curve, in fitting the glass.

Clock Device to Record Time of Appointments and Other Events

An ordinary clock, fitted with an electrical device to record the

length of telephone conversations or appointment hours, or indicate

when a door is opened, is shown in the illustration. The record is made

by the hands in contact with brass rings attached to the face of the

clock, the front of the rings being covered with white paper, dipped in

a chemical, on which black dots are caused to appear, at each contact.

By examining the dots and noting the items corresponding to them on a

memorandum, the length of conversations, etc., may be observed.

[Illustration: The Electrical Device Attached to the Clock Records

Contacts Made by the Opening of a Door, and the Using of a Telephone]

Two rings of ¹⁄₁₆-in. brass, one within the other, and having

side arms, are mounted on the front of the clock, as shown in the

illustration. The ring on arm A should be slipped under both hands, and

should have spring enough to hold it in contact with the small clock

hand. The ring fixed to arm B must be in contact with the large hand,

but must be some distance from the small hand and the smaller ring, so

that they will not come into contact when the hands cross each other.

An offset in the arm A, and a piece of mica insulation, are provided

where the larger ring crosses the bar A. On the surface of each ring,

between it and its respective hand, is glued a piece of white paper,

cut to conform with the ring, but ¹⁄₁₆ in. larger, so as to extend over

the outer edge of the brass rings. The rings of paper are saturated in

a solution of potassium chloride and permitted to dry, before being

placed on the brass rings.

A high-tension current, passing through the coil D, enters the arm A,

passes to the small hand, to the large hand, and out at the terminal on

arm B. Black dots will appear on the prepared paper at the position of

the hands, when the contact is made.

The primary wires E and F may be attached to a doorbell or to a contact

on the door, indicating on the prepared paper the length of time the

door was held open, as well as the time at which it was opened. The

arms A and B must be well insulated from one another. For greater

accuracy in recording time, to within ¹⁄₂ minute, prepared paper dials,

with hour and minute marks, coming into contact with the hands at small

projections punched in the hands from their upper surfaces, should be

used. An ordinary secondary coil from an automobile may be used, and if

the clock has a wooden case, the arms may be fastened directly to it.

Practical Memorandum for Odd Jobs

Not infrequently home or shop mechanics find that trifling odd jobs

are neglected repeatedly, simply because they are not of sufficient

consequence to warrant getting out the tools or materials necessary for

the work. A convenient method of insuring that these small jobs are not

overlooked is to make a memorandum of them and place it with the tools

required for the work. For instance, if a small job of soldering is to

be done, a memorandum placed with the soldering outfit will not easily

be overlooked, and the work may be done while the coppers are hot for

use in a larger job. Likewise with small painting jobs. Sometimes only

a brushful of paint is needed and one does not care to mix a small

quantity of paint nor clean the brush afterward. A memorandum of the

job makes this unnecessary.--John Hoeck, Alameda, California.

A Homemade Vulcanizer

Tire tubes may be vulcanized satisfactorily in the home garage, or even

on the road, with the simple device shown in the sketch. It is made

as follows: Obtain a piece of sheet iron, ¹⁄₄ in. thick, 3 in. wide,

and 5 in. long. Drill a ¹⁄₄-in. hole at the middle of each end. Fit a

strip of similar stock, 1 in. wide and 5 in. long, to the first piece

with bolts, as shown. Procure a tin cover without embossing on the top,

such as is used on baking-powder cans. Cut several disks to fit in

the cover, from heavy cardboard; soak them thoroughly in a saturated

solution of saltpeter, and dry them. Wrap each disk in oiled paper, and

keep them in a water-tight container.

[Illustration: This Homemade Vulcanizer Utilizes the Heat from a Slowly

Burning Disk of Cardboard]

To use the vulcanizer, clean the area around the hole in the tube with

sandpaper, and cut a piece of rubber of the proper size to fit over it.

Slip one of the prepared cardboard disks into the tin cover, and clamp

the cover and tire with patch into the iron frame, as shown. Touch

a lighted match to the cardboard disk, which will burn rapidly, but

without flame, supplying sufficient heat to vulcanize the tube.--Thomas

W. Benson, Hastings on Hudson, N. Y.

Rudder for a Toboggan

[Illustration: This Rudder for a Toboggan Insures Positive Control, and

Prevents Wear on the Shoes and Clothes of the Rider]

Learning to steer a toboggan by means of the foot dragged behind it is

an interesting feature of the sport, but this method is dangerous at

times and results in much wear on shoes and clothes. The device shown

in the illustration makes this method of steering unnecessary and gives

the rider accurate control over the sled. It consists of a strip of ¹⁄₄

by 1-in. iron curved to form a rudder at one end and twisted at the

middle to provide a flat piece for pivoting it on the rear cleat of the

sled, as shown in the working drawing below. A handle is fastened to

the front end of the strip with bolts. The rudder should not be curved

too deeply or it will cut through the snow and be damaged, or ruin the

track.--H. B. Mclntyre, Waterville, Me.

A Window Refrigerator

[Illustration: A Box Fitted on the Outside of the Window to Slide in

Grooves Provides a Convenient and Inexpensive Refrigerator for Winter

Use]

A simple method of constructing a window refrigerator that will not

obstruct the light is shown in the illustration. A box was made the

width of the window and was fitted to slides fastened outside the

window on the side of the house. The exposed sides of the box were

inclosed completely and the inner side was provided with two sliding

doors. A handle was fitted to the side of the box so that, by reaching

out of the window, the box could be drawn in front of the opening

easily. Several shelves were fitted into it and the materials stored

were not easily molested. Trunk casters attached to the bottom of the

box improved the action on the lower rail.--Hubert Kann, Pittsburgh, Pa.

Toy Paper Glider Carefully Designed

A paper glider is an interesting and useful toy that can be made

quickly; it may be used out of doors, but occasions when weather

conditions make it necessary to remain indoors are especially good for

this form of pastime. The glider shown in the sketch was worked out

after considerable testing. With a toss it travels 20 to 30 ft., on a

level keel, with a message slipped behind a pin, as shown in the upper

sketch. The inventive boy may devise many play uses for the glider in

tournaments, competitions, and for “military” flights, in which the

“drivers” of the devices may “annihilate armies.” Practical use of the

toy was made in a series of air-current tests.

[Illustration: The Glider will Travel 30 Feet, Carrying a Message, if

Carefully Made]

The glider is made as follows: Fold a piece of paper, 10 by 15 in.,

lengthwise, and mark the outline shown at the left upon it. The

dimensions should be followed carefully. Measure first from the end A

to the point B, and then draw the slanting line to D, at an angle of

45°. Mark the width to E, and measure the other distances from A and at

the middle, to determine the curve of the edge. Mark the dotted lines

extending from D, which are guides for the folding of the paper to

form the glider, as shown in the lower sketch. Curl the points under

the side so that the line FD comes to the position DG, and pin them to

the corners H, as shown in the lower sketch. The glider is tossed by

holding it between the thumb and forefinger at the middle of the fold

underneath it.--S. R. Edwards, Seattle, Wash.

Cleaning a Clock with Kerosene Fumes

A simple way of cleaning a clock is as follows: Remove the pendulum and

procure a ball of cotton wool, about half the size of a fist. Saturate

this with kerosene, and place it in a saucer, or a tin lid, in the case

under the works of the clock. Close the case and leave the cotton for

several days. It will then be found that the fumes from the kerosene

have brought down the dust from the works; in fact, the cotton will

be covered with black specks. It only remains to oil the bearings of

the works, and the clock will be quite in order.--S. Leonard Bastin,

Bournemouth, England.

A Reversible Photographic Developing Tank

BY LAWRENCE F. CAMPBELL

One of the chief difficulties in developing plates in a nonreversible

developing tank is that irregular development takes place, because

the developer tends to settle more or less, depending on the time

necessary for complete development. The construction of a reversible

tank is a simple matter, and the cost is slight. The tank described is

3¹⁄₄ by 4¹⁄₄, in. in size, but the dimensions can be varied for other

sizes of plates. The tank is a box having grooves in opposite ends for

the plates. By placing the latter back to back, 12 can be developed

at a time. Sheet rubber is fitted between the cover and the body of

the tank, and the cover, upon being screwed down, makes a water-tight

compartment of the box. The asphaltum paint used is not affected by

the developer, and preserves the wood. Fixing and developing may both

be done in the one tank, but it is preferable to use the tank for

developing only.

[Illustration: Assembly Views, Showing the General Construction and

Detail of the Cover]

The two sides are plain pieces, ¹⁄₂ by 4 by 4¹⁄₂ in. in size. The end

pieces have ¹⁄₈ by ¹⁄₈-in. grooves, ¹⁄₄ in. apart and extending the

length of the piece, which is ¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. long. The grooves

can be made either on a power saw, or by chiseling them out by hand.

The bottom piece is ¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₂ by 5¹⁄₂ in. in size, with two ³⁄₈-in.

holes bored to receive the bolts. The two bolt supports are ¹⁄₂ by ³⁄₄

by 1 in., and are also bored ³⁄₈ in. to receive the bolts, and are

nailed to the end pieces. The cover is ¹⁄₂ by 3¹⁄₂ by 5¹⁄₂ in. long,

with a slot in each end for the bolts, which are ³⁄₈ by 6-in. carriage

bolts.

[Illustration: The Finished Tank, and Details of the Bottom, Ends, and

Bolt Supports]

The parts are assembled with screws, and the tank is given two coats of

asphaltum paint. Care should be taken, before assembling the parts, to

insure that the plates fit the grooves.

Turned Cane with Snakes Inlaid

The making of a cane is a favorite job for the home craftsman,

especially the veteran who finds himself in need of such a support and

has the leisure to make it. A novelty in constructions of this kind is

a turned cane built up of dark and light-colored woods with snakes

inlaid. That shown in the illustration was made of black walnut and

birch, with a walnut knob. It is made as follows: Glue up a piece of

walnut and a piece of birch, ⁷⁄₈ by 1³⁄₄ by 3 ft. long, as shown at A.

Mark out the snake on the birch surface, and cut it out very carefully

on the band saw, or with a fine hand turning saw. The snake portion

will drop out and is then separated into a walnut and a birch strip,

making two similar snakes. Bore holes for the eyes and plug them with

the opposite kind of wood. Replace the snakes in opposite positions,

the one of birch in the walnut side, and the walnut one in the birch

side. Glue them carefully into place, removing a small portion of the

wood at the ends of the sawed pieces to make a close fit.

[Illustration: This Novel Cane can be Turned in a Lathe or Planed from

the Square Stock, and Arouses Curiosity as to its Construction]

The stock then appears as at B, and is ready for turning in the lathe.

If desired, circles may be laid out on the ends of the stock, and the

piece planed down to the rounded and tapered form of a cane. This is a

more tedious job, but if carefully done with sharp tools will give good

results.

Turn down the shaft to the desired thickness, as shown at C, the upper

end being about 1 in. and the lower end ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter. Turn a

knob of walnut as suggested, and after sandpapering the work carefully,

finish it with shellac. Tip the bottom of the cane with a suitable

ferrule.--E. K. Wehry, Cedar Rapids, Ia.

An Inexpensive Dry-Plate Kit

[Illustration: This Dry-Plate Kit is Made of Cardboard and Serves the

Purpose Admirably if Carefully Fitted]

Wishing to use some 2¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₄-in. plates in a 6¹⁄₂ by 8¹⁄₂-in.

camera, I made kits that proved satisfactory, as follows, the method

being adaptable also to other sizes: A piece of cardboard the size of

the camera plate was procured. A rectangle, as at A, was cut in the

center, ¹⁄₁₆ in. larger each way than the plate. Paste, over the back

of the cut-out rectangle, a sheet of tough, thin paper, B, and glue two

small pieces of cardboard, as at C. Cut cardboard pieces D, E, F, and

G, proportioned as at H, and glue them into position, G being over the

others, the piece E sliding. If a dry plate is placed in the rectangle

and E is slid toward the plate, it will hold the latter in position.

The plate holder is loaded with the kit, and to prevent warping, a

couple of pins are driven into the plate holder, as at H. Figures J and

K indicate the open and closed positions. The ground glass is marked to

correspond with the rectangle, so that one can tell where to focus the

image.--L. L. Llewellyn, Piedmont, Calif.

Photographic-Print Washing Machine

BY HARRY MARCELLE

Many amateur photographers have occasion to make a considerable number

of prints and find the washing of them tedious, by the ordinary

methods. In order to overcome this difficulty the print-washing machine

shown in the sketch was made. It is simple in construction and performs

the work quite satisfactorily at a saving of not a little time. Since

the water in which the prints are washed must be agitated, a pivoted

tray is provided. A unique feature is the water wheel through which the

water supply passes, at the same time developing power to operate the

rocker arm, by means of which the tray is agitated.

The frame for the large trough, which contains the tray and other

apparatus, is made of 2 by 4-in. uprights, braced with 2 by 2-in.

pieces. The trough is made of ⁷⁄₈-in. stock, joined at the ends with a

water-tight grooved, or dado, joint. The top is fitted to form a cover

and may be hinged or arranged as a lid, supported and held in place

by cleats, fixed on its under side with screws. The trough and its

fittings may be made of a size suited to individual requirements. The

device illustrated is 4 ft. long, and has a trough 18 in. wide and 13

in. high. The interior of the trough is given a coat of tar to make it

waterproof, and the exterior may be painted thoroughly to preserve the

wood.

The rocking tray, in which the prints are placed, is made of ⁵⁄₈-in.

stock. It is 5 in. high, 15 in. wide, and 28 in. long. Splash boards

are fixed at its ends, as shown, and the bottom is made of muslin,

reinforced with wooden strips, ¹⁄₂ in. wide. The tray is supported on a

rod or pipe at its center, the ends of the support being set into the

sides of the trough. A crank arm of wood or metal is attached to the

center of one end of the tray, and operates through an opening in the

top of the trough. The crank arm engages a crank fixed to the shaft of

the water wheel, as shown in the sketch. The crank must be made not

longer than 2 in., or the resulting action on the tray will pour out

too much water, the prints being thus in danger of damage.

[Illustration: The Spray Forced from the Pipe Gives Power to the Water

Wheel, Which in Turn is Transferred to the Rocker Arm Attached to the

Tray]

The water wheel is made of two round disks of sheet metal, 9 in. in

diameter. Strips of wood are fitted between them so that the wheel is

3 in. wide on the face. Wooden blocks, grooved to fit the shaft of

the water wheel, are used as bearings. They are fixed to the top with

bolts. The water supply is provided through a pipe at one end. A cap

is fitted over the end of the extension on the pipe and a small hole

drilled through it. This forces the water against the blades of the

water wheel rather than permitting it to drop under normal pressure.

The flow of water is regulated by the valve on the supply pipe, and

the excess water is drained off at the opposite end of the trough. The

force of the water, as it leaves the water wheel, is lessened, and the

water carried gently to the tray, by means of a board set between the

top and the tray, at the wheel end of the trough.

A Washstand for the Baby

[Illustration]

To make this washstand, I mounted a cheese box on a frame 20 in. from

the floor, and fitted a shelf between the legs 9 in. from the floor. In

the center of this shelf a hole was cut, with a compass saw, to hold

a wash basin. Rods between the legs are handy for towels, washcloths,

etc. Within the circular box are kept baby’s toilet and bath articles.

The inside of the box is padded with cotton and lined with nainsook,

the latter being used, also, for the cover. When the cover is on the

box, the stand is used as a small table. White enamel gives the stand a

neat finish.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, New York.

Carrying Strap and Lock for Hand Cases

[Illustration]

The illustration shows how to make a locking device for hand cases or

satchels, and providing, also, a strap for carrying. Cut two pieces of

⁵⁄₈ by 2-in. strap iron, and two pieces, 2¹⁄₂ in. long. Bend them, and

fasten them with screws or rivets, as shown. When the case is carried,

the strap holds the crosspieces firmly.

Disk Talking-Machine Records Played Eccentrically

A hole was bored about an inch from the center of a disk

talking-machine record and the latter was placed on the machine with

the new hole over the center pin of the table. When the record was

played, the result was a reproduction extremely amusing and hardly

recognizable as compared with the original one.

Safety Flue Stopper Made of Tin Pail

[Illustration]

The usual method of covering stovepipe holes in chimneys with a tin

disk is not as safe as it should be, especially adjoining nonfireproof

material. A safer method is to fit a tin can, or a tin pail, into the

chimney hole, as shown. Cut it off the right length, with a pair of tin

shears, leaving projections as stops, and replace the disk stopper.--J.

A. Raught, Janesville, Wisconsin.

Book Rest for Music Stand

[Illustration]

The music-stand attachment shown in the illustration aids in the

handling of music books, and is easily made. Some stands are provided

with a supporting edge about 1 in. wide and will not properly carry

larger music books, and the device is attached to this edge. The device

is of wood, ³⁄₁₆ by 3¹⁄₄ in., and the length of the stand. On the

bottom, two wood strips are fastened. They are beveled as shown in the

sectional view, to wedge on the music rest.--L. R. W. Allison, Newark,

N. J.

Uses for Worn Talking-Machine Needles

Among the uses made of discarded steel talking-machine needles are the

following: as glazier’s tacks; as brads, where a headless nail or an

inconspicuous one is desired; as pins for fastening papers together;

and for the tacking in of the backs on picture frames.--William A.

Martin. Jersey City, N. J.

Automatic Photo-Print Washing

[Illustration]

A photographers’ automatic print-washing device may readily be made

with the aid of an alarm clock, and a spool to which a piece of thread

is attached as shown. The spool is fixed to the alarm-clock winder. An

upright support, having a nail driven into the top and bent over to

form a hook, carries the thread, to which the print is attached by a

small clip. The alarm-clock mechanism is then set, and when released

draws the print from the dish, the bell warning the operator.--George

H. Holden, Chesterfield, England.

Portable Sectional Poultry Fencing

Sectional poultry fencing has several advantages over stationary

fencing: It can be easily moved, the poultry yard being made larger,

smaller, or shifted; an area may be planted to a crop and gradually

included in the yard, furnishing greens for the poultry. Also, the

tenant who does not care to put down permanent equipment, will find

sectional fencing desirable.

[Illustration: Poultry Fencing Made in Portable Sections Has Several

Advantages over a Stationary Barrier]

Sections are practical to about 18 ft. long, and should be 7 ft. high

for the lighter breeds of poultry. If the fencing is to be used for

grown stock only, the fine-mesh wire below may be omitted, and 2-in.

mesh used. Some sections should be fitted with gates, and the top

batten should be set down about 1 ft., so as not to afford footing for

the poultry. The sections are lashed together with wire, and supported

by an occasional post, or guyed to buildings or supports.

Suitcase Holder for Running Board of Automobile

[Illustration: These Homemade Supports Are Adjustable to Suitcases of

Varying Widths]

Two metal strips, ³⁄₁₆ by 1¹⁄₂ by 20 in., were used to make a strong

and adjustable holder for suitcases carried on the running board of an

automobile. One-inch slots were cut near the top of the strips, which

were bent to form angles having an upright portion 12 in. long. The

angles are adjusted at the bolts, as shown, and the suitcase is held in

place by straps.--Lucien G. Baer, Los Angeles, Calif.

Wheelbarrow for Large Cans

[Illustration: Milk Cans were Handled Easily by Means of This Homemade

Cart]

Large cans for milk are awkward to handle and transport in the dairy or

barn, and the cart shown in the sketch was made from an old wheelbarrow

and sections of pipe, to make this work easy. The pipes were bent to

the shape shown and strongly braced with iron rods. A board bottom

was provided, and the barrow wheel was mounted between the forked

ends of the frame. The cart may be used for numerous other purposes,

and is especially convenient in that the load need only be lifted

slightly.--Monroe Woolley, San Francisco, Calif.

Plain Butts Used as Double-Swing Hinge

By placing two ordinary plain butt hinges so that two of their wings

overlap completely, they may be made to serve as a double-swing hinge.

If the holes do not correspond in the adjoining wings, drill new ones,

disposing them to give the best hold in the wood. Allowance must be

made in applying the hinge, for the double thickness of the center

portion.

* * * * *

¶A rubber finger tip is convenient in counting sheets in that the

paper is not soiled, since moistening of the finger is unnecessary.

Portable Skylight for Home Portraiture

BY W. W. IRVINE

Photographers who wish to construct a part of their equipment may be

interested in a portable skylight, which I made and use with thorough

satisfaction, for home portraiture. Covered with imitation leather,

it is quite presentable in carrying it about. Figure 9 shows the case

closed, with stand, flash lamp, box of flash powder, and a white-cloth

reflector inside. The apparatus set up for work is shown in Fig. 5, and

the details of construction in the other sketches.

First make the frames for the top and bottom of the case, A, of

³⁄₈ by 2¹⁄₂-in. wood, and B, of ³⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₄-in. stock, lengths and

construction as shown in Fig. 3. Cut from extra-heavy mount board, two

21 by 28-in. pieces, C, and tack one to one side of each of the frames.

Cut a similar piece, E, 15 by 26¹⁄₂ in., and hinge it with strong

cloth, or thin leather, to the inner side of the thicker frame, to form

the roof E, Fig. 5. Hinge the two frames with three butt hinges.

The frame is then ready for covering, and for this purpose imitation

leather is economical and practical. Two yards of 36-in. material is

needed. Use hot glue, first on the bottom half of the case, applying it

smoothly, and press the fabric into place. Then cover the sides, the

upper half, and the roof. The covering must be in one piece to prevent

the smoke from escaping at the joints. Glue down the edges inside of

the case, and set it aside for 24 hours to dry.

While waiting for the case to dry, the work on the bag can be done.

Two yards of close-woven white muslin, or one yard of 60-in. sheeting,

is required for the front. For the sides, closely woven black material

should be used. Figures 1 and 2 show the dimensions, the white portions

representing patterns, and the shaded portions material for hems

and seams. The material is folded over the pattern, basted down, and

hemmed at the dotted lines, 1¹⁄₂ in. from the edge. Sew the front to

the curved sides. Allowance for shrinkage, when the bag is washed and

fireproofed, has been made in these sizes.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 5

FIG. 7

FIG. 2

FIG. 8

FIG. 3

FIG. 9

FIG. 6

FIG. 4

This Homemade Skylight was Made at a Cost of $3, Gives Satisfactory

Service, and Is Not Unsightly]

For fireproofing the bag, the following formula is good: water, 60 oz.,

ammonium phosphate, 4 oz., ammonium chloride, 8 oz. Soak the fabric

half an hour, wring it out slightly, and hang it up to dry.

Cut a hole, 6 in. square, in the lower half of the case for the door

F, Fig. 5. The door is of galvanized sheet iron, 7 in. square, covered

on one side with imitation leather and provided with a leather handle.

The door slides in guides of mount board, or metal, as shown in Fig.

4. Figure 8 shows the notch below the door to allow play for the

spring of the flash lamp, in place in Figs. 5 and 6. Mine was made for

cartridges, but by attaching a pan of heavy tin, I use it for flash

powder.

The leather socket, into which the top of the holder G, is slipped, is

shown in detail in Fig. 7. Suitcase catches, D, lock the apparatus in

open or closed position. The roof E, is supported by two folding desk

slides.

To fasten the bag in place, slip a cheap yardstick, or strip, cut to

the proper length, in each of the hems at the edges, and set them

snugly inside and against the sides of the open case and under the edge

of the roof. Fasten them with screws, as shown at the edges in Fig. 5.

The bag is easily removed by withdrawing the screws and the strips, for

washing and fireproofing it again. The front must hang away from the

lamp before the charge is fired, or the bag may be burned. After firing

the flash, the skylight is carried out and the smoke expelled.

Fuel Box in Seat Filled from Floor Trapdoor

[Illustration: The Fuel is Placed in the Box by Passing It Up through

the Trapdoors in the Floor]

A fuel box for the fireplace may be easily arranged so that it is

unnecessary to carry the fuel through the living rooms, thus avoiding

soiling floors and rugs. It may be installed, as shown, for a summer

cottage, or even in the living room of a home. The fuel box is built

under the seat of a comfortable settle, and the wood, coal, etc., are

placed in the fuel compartment by passing it up through trapdoors in

the floor at the center of the box. The fuel is piled at each side

of the trapdoor behind a low partition, and the trapdoors are closed

when not in use. The seat of the fuel box is divided at the middle and

hinged to swing back. Suitable cushions should be provided for the

seat.--M. P. Norton, Chicago.

Homemade Relay of Inexpensive Materials

A practical relay was made of odds and ends gathered in the workshop.

The base is of wood, ³⁄₄ by 3 by 6 in. The magnets A are made of two

wire nails driven into the base, the heads projecting 1¹⁄₂ in. They are

wound with six layers of fine insulated No. 25 gauge wire, as shown in

the small sketch. The ends of these magnet wires are carried to the two

binding posts B and C, taken from dry-cell carbons.

[Illustration: Nails, a Screw Hook, and Similar Common Materials, were

Used in Making This Relay]

The armature D is a piece of soft iron, ¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ in., screwed to the

armature lever E, which is a ¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂-in. piece of wood. A piece

of tin is tacked to the opposite end F, and a ¹⁄₈-in. hole is bored

through the lever, 2¹⁄₂ in. from the front end. Nail a wooden block,

G, to the base, slotted to accommodate the lever, so that when the

latter is pivoted in the slot, the armature will lie directly over the

magnet heads. Fit a wooden stop, H, under the end of the lever, so that

the armature is held ¹⁄₈ in. above the magnets, by a brass spring, J,

connected to the tin, F, and the binding post, K, with copper wire.

Arrange the brass hook, L, so it comes in contact with F when the

armature bears down upon the magnets. Connect this hook to the binding

post, M. When current flows through the magnets, the armature is pulled

down and the contact of the hook, L, with the tin, F, completes a

secondary circuit.--L. R. Hardins, Harwich, Mass.

* * * * *

¶A nutcracker may be used as a substitute for a pipe wrench or

pliers, and its toothed handles grip round objects quite firmly.

A Photographic Printing Machine

BY L. B. ROBBINS

A printing machine for “gaslight” papers, to be used in localities

not equipped with gas or electricity and where printing is to be done

after daylight, is shown in the sketch. The measurements given are

only approximate, as conditions will determine its size. That shown

is made as follows: First procure a 6¹⁄₂ by 8¹⁄₂-in. or 8 by 10-in.

printing frame. Remove the brass clips from the pad and fasten one end

of the pad to the frame, by a pair of small hinges, with the glass in

the frame. Procure a box, about 12 by 15 in., by 8 in. deep, with one

side open. Cut a rectangular opening through the 12 by 15-in. side a

bit smaller than the printing frame, and secure the frame in place over

the opening with screws. Saw a slot ³⁄₄ in. wide through the top of the

box--the end nearest the hinged end of the printing frame pad--running

it the full width and about 3 in. from the front.

[Illustration: Photographic Printing may be Done Rapidly by the

Systematic Use of This Machine]

Nail cleats along the inside of each side of the box, placing them

vertical and parallel, and about ³⁄₄ in. apart, so as to form a slide

groove in conjunction with the slot. This groove is to receive a frame

or curtain constructed of stock, 2 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. The

outside dimensions of the curtain are a trifle smaller than the inside

measurements of the box itself. Cover the frame with orange paper, and

when finished insert it through the slot in the top of the box. Build a

frame as indicated, on the outside of the box. Along the inside of the

uprights fasten cleats, thick enough to come flush with the ends of the

slot. These serve to steady the curtain when raised. Make a suitable

baseboard and secure the box to it. Then with sheet tin construct a

lamp house extending from the back of the box and of sufficient size

to accommodate a round-wick lamp. Leave an opening in the top to admit

the chimney, provide holes for ventilation, and a door by which the

lamp may be adjusted. When completed, paint the interior of the box

and lamp house white, to intensify the printing quality of the light.

Tie a piece of stout cord to a screw eye inserted in the upper end of

the sliding curtain, lead it through two pulleys fastened as shown,

and down to the hand lever. The latter is pivoted at the rear end by

a bolt. Attach a spring to the lower end of the hinged pad on the

printing frame. This holds the pad out of the way when not in use. A

curtain-roller spring is suitable for this purpose.

To operate the machine, place the negative and paper in position, and,

with the left hand, bring the pad down. Pull down the hand lever with

the right hand, raising the orange curtain. When the required exposure

is made, release the lever, shutting off the direct light. While nearly

all light is shut out by means of the lamp house, the paper may be

handled safely and easily by means of that admitted through the orange

curtain. By systematic arrangement and handling of materials, it is

surprising what an amount of work can be turned out by the aid of this

machine, especially if one person attends to the exposing and another

to the developing.

A Small Variable Condenser

[Illustration: Diagram for a Small Variable Condenser]

The condenser shown in the diagram combines the large capacity of a

fixed condenser with the gradual capacity variation of a variable one.

It is suitable for a wireless receiving circuit, or to shunt around the

vibrator of an induction coil, by making the units considerably larger.

It is made up of several fixed condensers, connected in parallel, a

lever being the means whereby the capacity is varied. Five or more

units may be used, each being a small condenser, built up of 10 sheets

of waxed paper and nine sheets of tin foil. A convenient size for the

tin foil is 6 by 4 in., and for the paper, 5¹⁄₂ by 4¹⁄₂ in. The latter

should be a good grade of very thin linen paper and should be carefully

prepared by dipping it in hot paraffin. The sheets of tin foil and

paper in each unit are piled up alternately, allowing about ¹⁄₂ in. on

each tin-foil strip to project beyond the paper for making connections.

The pile is covered with heavy paper, and a heated flatiron is passed

on the top of each unit until the paraffin begins to melt. Upon

cooling, the units are compact.

The connections necessary are shown in the diagram. The condenser units

C, D, E, F, G, each have one side connected to a common terminal A. The

other sides of the condensers are connected to the copper strips H, J,

K, L, M. They are ¹⁄₂ in. wide and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick. A copper lever, ¹⁄₈

by ¹⁄₂ by 8 in., is pivoted on one end so that it will connect two or

more of the condensers in parallel. The pivoted end is connected to the

terminal B. The dotted line shows different positions of the lever. The

apparatus is mounted in a wooden box.--Peter J. M. Clute, Schenectady,

N. Y.

Lighting a Candle without Touching the Wick

A candle may be lighted without the match flame touching the wick, as

follows: Light the candle, let it burn a bit; then blow it out. A small

column of smoke will rise from the wick. Touch the match flame to this,

a little above the wick, and it will ignite, travel down, and relight

the wick from the burning oil gas.

Emergency Lifting Device of Rope and Lever

[Illustration]

When block and tackle, chain hoists, or similar equipment are not

at hand, the simple arrangement shown in the sketch is useful for

lifting heavy loads. Make the lever A of a piece of 2 by 4-in. stuff,

and cut notches into it for the ropes, as indicated. From a suitable

support, B, fix the ropes C and D to the lever A at the proper notches,

permitting the ends C-1 and D-1 to be drawn down and fastened to the

floor or other support as required in raising the load. Fix the rope

E to the load W, and suspend it from the lever A at the proper notch

by means of a loop, E-1. To raise the load, bear down on the end of

the lever when it is in its original position A-1, bringing it to the

position A-2. This will bring the lower rope to position E-2. Draw up

the slack in rope D, to bring the loop to position D-2, and fasten it.

Then lift the lever A from its position A-2, to the position A-3, and

draw up the slack in rope C to bring the loop up to position C-2. The

lower rope will be brought to position E-3. By repeating this process,

the load may be raised gradually. The ropes may, of course, be of

various lengths within the range of the support and the operators.

Mucilage Brush and Container Made of a Test Tube

[Illustration]

An ordinary test tube, about ⁵⁄₈ by 6 in. in size, may be made into

a mucilage container and brush that economizes the material and does

not get the fingers sticky. The end of the tube is covered with a

piece of soft cloth after the tube is filled, as shown in the sketch.

A convenient way to care for the device is to keep it in a small

tumbler.--A. H. Carrington, Trenton, N. J.

Holder for Household Ice Pick

An ice pick is often a source of danger, if left lying about the home,

and should be kept at a place convenient to the ice box, where it will

not be likely to cause injury. The small bracket on which the ends of

the roller curtain are supported is a satisfactory holder for the pick.

It may be fastened to the wall with nails, or screws, so that the pick

may be suspended in the center hole.--Robert J. Donnelly, Cincinnati,

Ohio.

Swing Made of Hickory Sapling

[Illustration]

A swing, so durable that it has become a virtual landmark, was made

from a long, straight hickory sapling suspended from the limb of

a tree. The sapling was split part of its length, as shown in the

illustration, and a bolt put through it to prevent the upper portion

from cracking. The lower end was smoothed off, so as not to injure the

hands, and mortised through a slab of wood, as shown in the detailed

sketch. A safe hook from which to suspend the swing is suggested. It

is made from a bolt fixed through the limb and curled at the hook end

so that the swing may be taken down in bad weather.--Hubert Kann,

Pittsburgh, Pa.

Match Safe of Miniature Cannon Shell

[Illustration]

The match safe shown in the sketch was made by a worker in a munitions

plant. The container was shaped like a small cannon shell and was set

into a bracket supported on a prettily grained board, stained and

varnished, and supported by a chain.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton, Can.

Washing Bromide Enlargements

[Illustration: The Cork Clips Hold the Bromide Print in the Water in a

Vertical Position]

The difficulty of washing bromide enlargements of the larger sizes

has always made the amateur hesitate to undertake much of this kind

of work. The developing and fixing can be done with comparative ease,

because of the facility with which the print can be kept moving in a

tray that is smaller in size than the print itself, but washing is such

a long process that one’s patience is exhausted before the hypo is

completely eliminated. Continuous handling of a print for 30 minutes is

tedious work. This objection can be overcome in the simplest and most

efficacious manner, as follows:

Procure some large corks of the best quality and in each cut a groove

completely around it, near one end, to serve as a retainer for a

rubber band; then cut the cork lengthwise through the center, and cut

a wedge-shaped piece from the center toward the end opposite the one

where the groove was cut for the rubber band. After placing a band in

the groove of the proper size the combination will work similarly to an

old-fashioned spring clothespin.

If two of these are snapped on the edge of a bromide print, this can

be dropped into a bathtub or laundry tub for washing. The corks will

cause the print to float vertically in the running water. By this

means a number of prints can be washed at a time without any danger

of their sticking together or becoming wrinkled or cracked in the

bath.--Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago.

Bench Support for a Miter Box

To make the most effective use of a miter box, it must be fastened

solidly to a base, but if fastened to the workbench top it is in the

way when not in use, and it is a nuisance to fasten and unfasten the

box every time it is used. To avoid the changing, I mounted the miter

box on two pieces of 1 by 3-in. stock, about 2 ft. long. These pieces

were placed on the bench top, at right angles to the front edge and

with their centers as far apart as the two pairs of legs on the box.

The box was placed on the front end of the pieces, with the back

parallel to the front of the bench, at right angles to the pieces,

and was fastened to them with screws. The other end of each piece was

fastened to the bench top with a hinge.

This fastened the miter box firmly to the bench top, but in such a way

that I could tip it up and back against the wall, or other support,

where it was out of the way but ready for use immediately. To stiffen

the frame, I placed a cross brace between the two pieces, making it

in the form of the letter H.--Contributed by L. C. Burke, Madison,

Wisconsin.

A Blowpipe for Gas

[Illustration: Blowpipe Connection to the Ordinary Illuminating-Gas

Main for Hard and Soft Soldering]

Every experimenter who has a gas connection within convenient distance

of the workbench should provide a 4 or 5-ft. length of ¹⁄₄-in. rubber

tubing, terminating in a brass tube through which air may be blown

in order that a clear blue flame may be available for either hard or

soft soldering. The brass tube should be 4 or 5 in. long and fitted

at one end with a removable nozzle having a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole in it. A

hole is then drilled in the side and a piece of smaller brass tubing,

bent as shown in the sketch, is soldered in place for the air supply.

A piece of soft-rubber tubing about 1 ft. long is then provided and

one end slipped over the projecting end of the air pipe and the other

fitted to a hard-rubber, or amber, mouthpiece. By regulating the gas

supply and blowing to the proper degree, a pencil of blue flame may be

produced, anywhere from 1 to 4 in. long. For heating large surfaces,

the nozzle tip should be removed.

This method of soldering not only makes a better connection than the

usual copper, but is instantly available and does not disarrange the

several pieces where, as is often the case, it is not practicable to

pin or hold them in place.

Scraper for Dishes

[Illustration: A Dish Scraper Made of a Piece of Rubber Inserted in a

Wood Handle]

Housekeepers will find the scraper shown to be silent and more rapid

than a knife for cleaning dishes. It consists of a handle cut from a

piece of straight-grained wood, with a kerf sawed in the wide end to

a depth of ³⁄₄ in., into which a piece of sheet rubber is inserted.

The rubber may be cut from an old bicycle-tire casing and is fastened

with two or three brads driven through the handle. The ends of the

brads are bent over or riveted. The edge of the rubber should be made

straight.--Contributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford, Minn.

Protecting Lights in a Gymnasium

A public-school auditorium was used for playing basket ball, and the

lights were protected as shown. Wire waste-baskets were fastened to

pieces of board, which in turn were nailed to the ceiling around

each lamp. As it was desired to provide a way to ventilate the room,

an opening was cut in each board around the lamp base, providing

fan-shaped cut-outs covered with galvanized metal of the same design,

to make a way to open and shut the ventilator. The air passed up into

an attic.

[Illustration: Wire Wastebasket Fastened around a Light to Protect It

for Basket-Ball Games]

The goals, which were old blackboards, were fastened between the posts

that supported the ceiling. Two iron rods, one above the other, were

clamped with bolts to the posts, and the boards were bolted to the

rods.--Contributed by Frank C. Svacha, McKees Rocks, Pa.

Shortening a Pasteboard Box

[Illustration: Shortening a Box by Bending Up the Bottom after Removing

the End and Cutting Down the Sides]

If a pasteboard box happens to be too long for a special purpose it can

be shortened as shown. The sides are cut down to the bottom and the end

removed. The bottom is then bent up on a line between the places where

the sides were cut down, to form a new end for the box. The joining

parts are then held with a thread or wire fasteners.

Repairing Shade-Roller Springs

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 2

Fix the Loosened Spring into Place and the Roller Is in Working Order]

Springs of window-shade rollers, which usually break at the tin cap by

which they are fastened inside the rod, can be quickly repaired in the

following manner:

Remove the ferrule and dogs from the end of the roller and pull out the

stick to which the spring is attached. Measure the length of the stick

A, Fig. 1, on the roller, and at C cut a small square hole through to

the hollow center. Remove the metal cap thus exposed. Fix the cap on

the end of the stick at B and fasten the spring around one point of the

metal cap, Fig. 2. Insert the stick into the roller and tap it gently,

driving the cap points in; then replace the ferrule and dogs, and the

roller is in condition for use.

Drying Photo Films Rapidly

[Illustration: The Current of the Fan Dries the Films Rapidly]

Waiting for photographic films to dry is often tedious, particularly

when the photographer is in haste to see the results of his efforts at

picture taking. The method of drying the films shown in the sketch will

aid materially in the process. The films are held by small spring clips

attached to the wire frame surrounding the fan, and when the current is

turned on, the films are blown away from the fan and held suspended in

a diagonal position.--Contributed by W. J. Clausius, Chicago, Ill.

Applying and Drying Bronze Powders

Surfaces may be coated readily with bronze powder by applying a thin

coat of shellac and quickly dusting the powder over it. Speed is

important in dusting on the powder, as if the shellac hardens it will

not hold the bronze. Surfaces which have been bronzed in this way may

be polished if additional coats of shellac or varnish are applied over

them.

Forceps for Weeding Garden

[Illustration]

Difficulty in removing small weeds around plants in the garden may be

overcome by the use of a forceps made of a piece of wire, as shown

in the illustration. The wire is formed into two loops by which the

weeds are grasped, and the portion held in the hand is bent to form a

circular spring. Its tension may be regulated so that the hand will

not be tired in using the device.--Contributed by Irving McEwen, New

Westminster, B. C., Canada.

Shielding Pictures from Damp Walls

Injury to pictures from dampness of walls may be prevented by fixing

small disks of cork to the lower edge of the frame so as to form a

contact with the wall only at the cork. This permits a current of air

to pass between the wall and frame.

[Illustration]

New Method of Developing Roll Films

BY T. B. LAMBERT

Many devices have been made for developing and fixing roll films.

There is the simple wholesale method of the professional who hangs

a weight on one end of the film and lets it down in a deep tank of

developing fluid where it hangs submerged from an upper support until

the development is complete. Then the support, the film, and attached

weight are removed, dipped into a similar tank of running water, then

to another tank of fixing solution, and subsequently washed and dried.

This is the only practical plan where there are many such films to be

handled simultaneously, but the amateur who has only one or two rolls

a week cannot afford the tanks, the space, nor the expense incident

to such a method. The film is usually drawn back and forth through a

developing solution placed in a tray, and after the development has

proceeded far enough, the same process used in washing, then the hypo

solution, and finally through the last washing for about 20 minutes,

all making a tedious process.

Some amateurs and a few professionals who but occasionally develop roll

film use a mechanical device that rolls the film into a light-proof

package which is inserted in a metal tank for development and

subsequent fixation. This is a standard process, the apparatus being on

sale at all supply houses, but it has its drawbacks.

[Illustration: An Ordinary Drinking Glass Used for Developing Roll

Films]

The following method is not only simple but perfect in its operation

and requires no special apparatus, only a tumbler or lemonade glass,

and an ordinary lead pencil for its operation. A glass rod is

preferable to the lead pencil, and it is also convenient to have a deep

tin cup, or similar device, to cover up the lemonade glass and make it

light-proof, should it be desirable to turn on the white light in the

dark room.

Pour enough developing solution into the glass tumbler to cover

completely the roll of film when it is standing on end. In the dark

room open the film roll, remove the backing paper and the paper

ends on the film, run it through clear water until it is thoroughly

and uniformly wetted from end to end, and drop it endwise into the

tumbler of developer. Immediately insert the pencil or glass rod into

the center of the roll, and with a rather quick circular motion,

move the rod around so that it will quickly pass between the several

convolutions of the film and thus distribute the developer all over its

surface. Repeat this operation at once, then again in a few seconds,

then in 15 or 20 seconds, then in 30 seconds, then in 1 minute, and so

on, with greater intervals of time. If a 20-minute developer is used,

it will only be necessary, at the latter part of the development, to

separate the layers every 2 or 3 minutes.

When the development is complete, pour off the solution and rinse in

the same glass by letting water run through it while passing the pencil

or glass rod between the layers several times. The water may then be

drained off, and the glass filled with the fixing solution. While the

film is fixing, the glass rod should be passed between the layers

several times to renew the solution in contact with the film.

It will be seen that at no time after the first washing is it necessary

to handle the film, so that damage to the film and staining the fingers

are entirely eliminated. Further than that, no apparatus is tied up

in the operation, and if a light-proof cup is at hand, the developing

tumbler may be covered between the operations of separating the layers

of film, and the white light of the dark room can be turned on for

further operations.

Swinging Bags on the Arms of a Scarecrow

[Illustration: Scarecrow with Swinging Paper Bags on the Arms in the

Place of Hands]

The ordinary ragman used as a scarecrow can be made more effective by

adding to it something to make it move, or some part that flutters in

the wind. This can be accomplished in one way by blowing up paper bags

to expand them to their full extent, tying the openings as if they were

filled with some commodity for the household, and fastening them to the

arms of the dummy as shown. These will swing and flutter about in a

way that will materially aid in scaring away the birds that damage the

crops.

An Artistic Card Tray

Serving and card trays can be made very beautiful and artistic with the

use of butterflies, natural grasses, and the fluffy part taken from the

milkweed pod, formed to make a natural scene beneath the glass bottom

of the tray. If an old tray is to be used, remove the old panel, or

painting, beneath the glass bottom, and clean the glass thoroughly. Lay

it upside down on a flat table top and carefully place on it a cluster

of grass, or weeds, or some botanical specimens, that are well dried.

Arrange the dried butterflies in a natural way around the grasses with

their backs, or tops of the wings, facing out, or on the glass.

The silky down of the milkweed seed, with the seed removed, is used to

cover the specimens and grass, which forms the most delicate background

possible. It is laid on quite thick at the bottom of the scene,

gradually thinning it toward the top. Be careful to see that the fibers

of the down are placed so that they will radiate from the bottom of the

grasses to the outer edges. A piece of white, pearl, or gray cardboard

is then placed on this background, and another glass or board back is

sealed tightly over the whole with glue or wax.--Contributed by Joe V.

Romig, Allentown, Pa.

Deodorizing Lard Buckets

Lard buckets are the most easily obtained and the most satisfactory of

utensils in which to pack food, or cook for a small picnic or camping

party, but it is very difficult to remove the odor of the lard. This

may be easily accomplished by boiling the grounds from the coffeepot in

the bucket with about one pint of water.

[Illustration]

A Parlor Cue Alley

BY C. QUINCY IVES

Parlor cue alley is really a game of bowling except that it is played

on a small raised board, and, instead of throwing the balls by hand,

an ordinary billiard cue is used, the balls being about 1¹⁄₄ in.

in diameter. The automatic feature of this new game saves the time

usually required to set up the pins, and assures that they will be set

absolutely true each time.

[Illustration: A Cue is Used to Shoot the Ball on This Alley]

[Illustration: The Alley Board with Its Attachments]