any given angle it is necessary to determine the length of the major
axis. This may be done by laying out the circle, either full size or to
scale, and projecting two parallel lines equal to the diameter of the
circle, or its scale, and connecting these lines with a line drawn to
the required angle. The length of this line is the major axis.
* * * * *
¶Never run a glass cutter over the same line twice, as this will
ruin the cutter. Alcohol rubbed along the line to be cut aids in the
process.
Ship’s-Wheel Device for a Radiator Valve
Leaving one’s comfortable bed to open the valve of a radiator in a cold
room is an unpleasant task. The device shown in the sketch obviates the
necessity for leaving the bed, yet gives as positive control over the
valve as if the hand were on the valve wheel.
[Illustration: Draw on the Proper Cord to Open or Close the Valve]
The construction of the pulley attached to the top of the valve wheel
is shown in the small sketch at the right. It is built up of a center
section of wood and flanges of sheet metal, fastened with screws.
The pulleys attached to the wall are built in the same way, but are
smaller. Any size that is convenient may be used for the larger as well
as the smaller pulleys, but the larger pulley must be small enough so
that it will not rub against the end of the radiator.
The cord is wound around the pulley at the valve handle, several times,
like the steering cord on a motorboat. This gives a positive grip on
the pulley. The cord may be conducted directly from the large pulley to
the nearer small pulley, the other small one being omitted.
To operate the device draw on the proper cord to open and close the
valve. It would be well to mark the cords with tabs so that they may be
readily distinguished.--Contributed by P. D. Norton, Chicago, Ill.
Lighted Whirling Fan Used as Radiator Ornament
An ornament for the automobile-radiator cap that attracted a great deal
of attention at night was made by attaching two incandescent lamps to
the blades of a small propeller, which is whirled around by the wind.
By using the shaft on which the wheels of a roller skate revolve, ball
bearings were provided. One end of this shaft is held rigid in a block
of wood.
[Illustration: Homemade Ornament for an Automobile Radiator Revolves
with the Bulbs Lighted, Attracting Attention]
The wires which lead from the propeller are run under the hood, and
attached to the socket for the trouble lamp. They are taped to the rod
that braces the radiator, to avoid a short circuit, and then out from
under the hood at the radiator cap, and connected to the brushes A and
B. The incandescent electric-light bulbs are attached to the ends of
the propeller blades and connected in series. The wire is run from one
side of the socket E to the collar C, and soldered to the latter. The
wire from the other side of the socket is connected to the other lamp
F. The other wire from this lamp socket at F is soldered to the other
collar D. The brushes are made by bending a strip of copper into the
shape shown in the detail, and fastening it to the wooden block by
means of screw binding posts, soldered to the strips.--F. Lloyd Adams,
Jersey City, N. J.
A Fifty-Cent Electric Stove
Few persons realize what an intense heat may be developed when
the globe of an ordinary incandescent lamp is tightly inclosed,
largely eliminating the loss of heat. When the lamp is inclosed, the
temperature will increase until the rate of radiation is equal to that
at which the heat is generated. A good reflector is a poor radiator,
hence, when the metal wall surrounding the lamp is bright and shiny,
both inside and out, the heat is reflected inward.
[Illustration: A Handy Electric Stove can be Made at an Outlay of 50
Cents]
To make a small stove that will keep liquids warm, melt paraffin,
dissolve glue, etc., procure an ordinary 16-cp. carbon lamp, a
porcelain receptacle, and a bright, clean tin can, about 4 in. in
diameter and 7 in. long. Thoroughly blacken the bottom on the inside,
and then solder on four small brackets, cut from sheet brass or copper,
so that the can may be held down firmly, when inverted on the base.
The latter should preferably be made of hard wood, with the upper
edges beveled, as shown. Next bore the hole for the wire or flexible
cord. Fasten down the porcelain receptacle, connect the wiring, screw
in the globe, and screw down the tin can; the stove is then ready for
operation.--John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.
[Illustration: Woven Reed Furniture
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
A Variety of Small Stools and Foot Rests]
[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size
were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy
Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]
Footstools of reed are preferable, in the home, to those made of
other materials, because of their light weight, rounded edges, and
comfortable, yielding tops. Reed, rattan, and similar material, used in
their construction, withstand hard wear, and will not easily mar floors
or furniture, a feature not to be overlooked, especially since the
footstool is a favorite seat or play table of children. Several types
of stools and foot rests are shown in the illustration. A stool having
a framework of dowels, covered with reed, and utilizing the frame to
produce a paneled effect, is shown in Fig. 3. The upper dowel of the
framework is covered and woven over with the top, in the somewhat
lighter stool shown in Fig. 8; the legs are braced at the ends with
reed, arched and covered with winding reed. The stool shown in Fig.
11 is designed with rounded lines, the bracing dowels being set low,
and a panel of openwork woven into the sides. Figure 15 shows a foot
rest, the framework of which is steamed and bent, and the top slanted
to provide a more comfortable rest for the feet. It is strongly braced,
paneled on the sides with winding reed, and ornamented with openwork
scrolls. The details of the construction of the frames and the method
of weaving the reed are shown in the other sketches.
Dowels, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, are used for the main framework of all
of the stools shown. The dimensions of the various stools may be made
to suit individual taste, those suggested in each instance having
been found satisfactory. A good size for the stool shown in Fig. 3
is: height, 9 in.; width, 11 in.; length, 15 in. The lower of the
horizontal dowels should be set at least one-third the height of the
leg from the top. The braces are notched at their ends to fit the curve
of the legs, and finishing nails are driven into them through the legs.
The corner joints are further reinforced by a binding of reed, placed
over them. The holes for the spokes are bored through the braces before
the construction is nailed together. They should be bored about 1¹⁄₄
in. apart, spaced uniformly, according to the length and width of the
stool. The tops of the legs should project about ¹⁄₁₆ in. above the
upper braces, so as to produce a level surface when the winding reed is
applied.
The upper end of the legs must first be covered with winding reed,
as shown in Fig. 2. Tack a strip of the reed on; then add successive
pieces, as shown, until the end is covered. The joint of the leg and
the lower brace must be reinforced, as shown in Fig. 2, by tacking
winding reed over it horizontally. The braces must then be wound with
winding reed, the spokes being inserted later. In winding the reed on
the braces, tack one end of it to the brace at the left of a leg; then
begin the winding on the brace to the right of the leg, and as each
hole is encountered mark with pencil on the reed, so that if any of the
holes are covered they may be found easily, when inserting the spokes.
The marks should be made on the lower side.
The spokes extend from the lower edge of the bottom rail on one side to
the lower edge of the corresponding rail or brace on the opposite side.
Short spokes are fitted between the upper and lower rails at the ends
of the stool. The top is woven complete before the sides are woven,
the pairing weave being used. In this method two strands of reed are
handled together, the first passing behind one spoke, and being below
the second strand, and then passing in front of the next spoke, and
being above the second strand, etc. This weave is shown in detail in
Fig. 9, illustrating an article on “Taborets and Small Tables for the
Summer Veranda,” page 155, July, 1916. The weaving of the top includes
the covering of the upper rails at the ends of the stool, which are
wound in as spokes, the reed passing around them and being directed
back in the opposite direction.
The weaving for the sides is carried around the stool continuously,
passing around the legs. One of the strands in the pairing weave passes
behind the leg, and the other must be wound around it an extra turn, to
cover up the space otherwise exposed. The reed is wound around the legs
to the lower end, the strand being tacked at the inner side of the leg.
The framework for the second type of stool is shown in Fig. 6. The two
side rails are fixed into place by the same method used in making the
first stool, and the frame is braced on the ends by sections of No. 12
or No. 14 reed. These are fitted into place and covered in the winding.
The braces should be fitted to the curve of the leg, and nailed into
place with small finishing nails. The ends where the braces join the
legs and rails should be whittled down to a long, thin wedge, so that
they may be bound in securely by the reed that is wound around the
legs, as shown in Fig. 4.
The spokes in this model, as shown in Fig. 6, do not pass through the
upper rails, but extend from one lower rail over the upper rails and to
the lower rail on the opposite side. This makes it necessary that the
upper rails be set slightly below and in from the top and outer edges
of the legs. The lower rails should then be set in so as to be uniform
with the upper ones.
The lower rails and the end braces are wound by the method used for
the rails in the first stool. The tops of the legs are finished
differently, however, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. The weaving is begun
at the lower rail, and proceeds until the side panel is filled to the
under edge of the upper rail. The weavers cannot then be returned at
the corner, and are cut off to extend 2 in. beyond the leg. Their ends
are thinned out, and then brought around the corner against the upper
rail on the end, as shown in Fig. 5. Alternately they are turned down
on the leg and against the end rail, producing a covering for the
corner. The strands of the top are woven over the thinned-out ends, and
bound over the joint of the braces with the upper rail. The corners may
be beaten gently with a block of wood to smooth them, and to bring the
weavers firmly together. The weavers pass twice around the legs, as
each strand is brought to the leg, as shown in Figs. 5 and 7. It will
be found convenient to place the spokes in only one lower rail, as in
Fig. 6, while weaving the first side panel, and the top. As the work
proceeds the spokes are bound down to the upper end rails, and when the
middle of the second side panel is reached, they are trimmed off and
fitted into their holes, on that side.
The third stool differs fundamentally from the preceding ones in that
the framework is curved at the upper ends, and the weaving of the top
is carried down over the ends. The framework is shown in detail, in
Fig. 9. Ash dowels, ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, are used for the framework,
and the rails are notched into the main sections, and nailed, as were
those in the preceding stools. The length of the curved dowels must be
determined carefully, and it is desirable to have the stock longer than
is necessary for the finished pieces, so that inaccuracies in bending
may be allowed for properly. The distance between the legs should be
such that a space of ¹⁄₂ in. is provided between the legs and the first
hole for the side spokes, and the intervening spokes should be placed 1
in. apart. A satisfactory size is to make the stool 6 in. high, the end
rails 8 in., and the side rails 13 inches.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
FIG. 6
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 10
FIG. 9
FIG. 11
FIG. 14
FIG. 12
FIG. 15
FIG. 13
The Making of Stools in Woven Reed Affords the Craftworker an Excellent
Opportunity to Produce Constructions, for Home Use, or as Gifts, That
Have Originality and a Personal Element. The Frameworks for Four
Typical Stools and Foot Rests are Shown at the Left, and the Completed
Objects at the Right. Figure 14 Shows a Variation Adaptable to the
Methods of Weaving Shown in Other Models]
The method of bending the dowels is shown in Figs. 12 and 13. They
must be soaked in hot water or steamed, and clamped around the form
as indicated, being left to dry. A pipe fitted over the ends of the
dowels, to give leverage, will aid in bending them. The form is made
by fitting pegs, suitably spaced, into a board, ⁷⁄₈ in. or more in
thickness. The curved pieces may be braced temporarily, as shown, and
removed from the form when partly dried, so that it can be used quickly
for the second piece. The pegs must be set close enough together so
that the curve at the upper ends of the legs will not be too large,
making the legs appear short. Care must be taken in bending this short
curve, as the dowels are likely to break if the curve is quite abrupt.
By setting the pegs solidly and making them long enough, two pieces of
dowel rod may be curved in the form at the same time, and permitted to
dry. A convenient tray of galvanized iron, for use in heating water for
the moistening of the dowels, is shown in Fig. 10. It is 28 in. long,
but may be made shorter if the points at which curves are to be made
are moistened separately. A wash boiler, or any other suitable vessel,
may be used for heating the water and dipping the dowels into it. After
being shaped, the pieces are trimmed off to the proper height on the
leg portions. Holes for the spokes are then bored through the lower and
side rails, and they are notched and nailed to the legs.
The cross rails of the framework, shown in Fig. 9, are fixed into place
by the method used in the previous models. The lower rails should be
set about 2 in. from the floor, and are bored for double spokes. The
rails are set with their outer edges ¹⁄₈ in. in from the edges of the
legs, so that the weaving will be flush with the surface of the legs,
rather than project slightly beyond it. The spokes for the ends and
seat, or top, pass from one lower rail on one end to the corresponding
rail on the other end, and are supported on the upper end rails. There
are no corners to be fitted with the winding reed in this model, as the
windings continue over the curves at the ends and down over the latter,
by the same method of weaving as used in the top. The weaving is begun
at the lower rails, and passes completely around the sides and ends of
the stool, until about 1¹⁄₂ in. has been covered, up from the lower
rails. The ends only are then covered, the strands of reed passing
around the curved portion of the upper rails, and around the dowels
forming the support for the top, in weaving back and forth.
The ornamental weaving at the sides of the stool is produced by
spreading out the double spokes and conducting them to the proper holes
in the upper rails. Several types of design may be made by crossing the
spokes in various ways before setting them into the holes in the rails.
The short spokes in the sides are permitted to remain with their upper
ends free and longer than necessary while the 1¹⁄₂-in. lower section
is woven. They must be cut carefully to the size necessary to form the
desired design, and the ends glued into the holes.
The stool shown in Fig. 15 is designed as a foot rest, with a slanting
top. It is similar in general construction to that shown in Figs. 9 and
11, the framework being made of dowels, bent to the shape indicated by
means of a form. The top and ends are woven in the manner described for
the previous model. A point of difference to be noted is the bracing by
means of a woven panel below the side rails, as shown in Fig. 15. This
feature may be carried around the ends also, or the ends may be braced
to the lower side panel by the method of bracing shown in Fig. 4. The
rails around the stool are all on the same level. The double spokes for
the top are fixed into the end rails, the spokes for the side panels
into the side rails, and the smaller dowel placed at the lower edge
of the side panels, as a support for the twisted weaving shown. The
weaving of the top and the panels is by the method used in the previous
model. The scrolls fitted into the open portions of the sides are
tacked into place, and the strands of weaving reed carried over them,
where the curves touch the upper and lower rails. A variety of designs
may be worked out for the openwork. The scrolls are made of No. 6 or
No. 8 reed, and should be formed on a base, as in Fig. 12, brads being
used to hold them in shape until dry.
Another type of foot rest with a slanting top is shown in Fig. 14. The
framework is built up of dowels, straight sections only being used. The
joints are fastened by the method used in the first and second models
described. The method of covering the frame is essentially the same as
for the stool shown in Fig. 15, or an adaptation of that used in Fig.
11 may also be applied. Where facilities for steaming or moistening
the dowels are not to be had conveniently, this type of construction
will be found satisfactory, the designs being limited to straight
lines, however. The method of covering the framework used in Fig. 3 is
also available for the framework shown in Fig. 4, and the corners may
be finished as shown in Fig. 2. Numerous variations and combinations
of the types shown may be worked out readily after one has become
reasonably familiar with the possibilities of woven-reed construction.
Squirrel-Skin Bill Fold
[Illustration: Bill Fold Fashioned from a Squirrel Skin as a Souvenir
of a Hunting Trip]
As a souvenir of the “days afield” my brother fashioned a quaint bill
fold out of a squirrel skin, which, by the way, is a skin of remarkable
toughness, After tanning the skin and removing the hair, it was cut as
shown, the skin of the forelegs being used as fold-overs. The piece of
tape took the place of the tail. The shot holes through the skin added
the requisite touch of realism, recalling a day with the gun.--James M.
Kane, Doylestown, Pa.
Waterproof Dry-Battery Case
[Illustration: Batteries Protected by a Waterproof Case will Give
Longer and More Efficient Service]
Dry batteries that are sealed in a tight, waterproof case will last
much longer than those exposed to dampness, especially in marine
practice. A box, like that shown in the sketch, will afford excellent
protection and add materially to the life and efficiency of batteries.
It is constructed of ¹⁄₂-in. cypress, or oak, of a length and width
depending upon the capacity in number of cells desired. The inside
dimensions should be such that the cells are firmly fitted. It should
be put together with screws and marine, or any other waterproof, glue.
The batteries should be placed in the case and connected. Molten
paraffin wax should then be poured over and under the cells. Do not get
the wax too hot, but heated only to the melting point. Binding posts
and a single-blade switch should be placed on the case and connected
up. Screw on the cover, after painting the top edges with the glue.
Give the case a good coat of varnish and paint, and fit with a carrying
handle. This makes a neat and handy battery outfit that is thoroughly
waterproof. The case can be refilled by cutting out the wax and
removing the old cells.--B. F. Dashiell, Baltimore, Md.
Making Small Ratchet Wheels in a Lathe
Accurately formed ratchet wheels of small size may be made without
special appliances in a lathe. A triangular file and a simple gauge,
made of a piece of hardened steel, are the only tools required, as
shown in the illustration.
[Illustration: Ratchet Wheels may be Cut Accurately with a File, Using
a Hardened-Steel Gauge as a Guide]
The lathe is prepared as an index for the ratchet wheels by dividing
the face of one of the steps, preferably the largest of the cone
pulley. A center punch may be used in marking the graduations slightly,
and another point should be marked in the headstock base, from which
dividers are used to gauge the movement of the spindle. The dividers
should be set, when the work is begun so that one point rests in the
punch mark on the headstock and the other in one of the marks on the
pulley. The bearings should be tightened so that the work will not
shift easily. The blank to be cut is supported on an arbor provided
with a shoulder, and is held in place by a small machine screw threaded
into the end of the arbor.
The teeth are cut by filing them with the gauge as a guide. If
the spindle is turned carefully so that the dividers register the
graduations precisely, the ratchet wheel will be cut accurately. By
first roughing out the teeth and then refiling them with a fine file,
a more smoothly finished surface will result. Other forms of teeth
might also be made if a properly shaped gauge is provided.--Charles F.
Merrill, Hopedale, Mass.
Front-Opening Hatbox
Lifting a hatbox down from a high shelf, only to find that the desired
hat is not among the several hats contained therein, is annoying. If
the hat shelves of the clothes closet are provided with boxes that
open on the front, the hats may be removed easily without taking the
boxes from the shelves. Rectangular boxes are used for making the
front-opening containers by cutting the side corners of the front,
and using the front lower edge as a hinge. The top, or cover, is
placed over the box, holding the hinged front in place when closed.
These boxes have been found to afford ample protection and are
convenient.--D. J. Hough, Toledo, Ohio.
Plaster of Paris to Set Screws into Wall
Screws holding light fittings in a bathroom were found to be driven
into the plaster between laths and became loosened. No strain was
placed upon them, and as it was desired to replace the screws in the
same holes, the following method was employed: A cotton string was
wrapped around the threads of the screw, and the screw then dipped
into plaster of Paris until sufficient of this adhered to it to fill
the hole in the wall and to permit some of it to be forced behind
the plaster. When the plugs thus formed were dry, they resisted a
considerable pressure, by reason of the enlarged portions behind the
plaster.--H. A. Trester, Milwaukee, Wis.
Case for Fishhooks Made of a Tin Can
After trying several devices for keeping my fishhooks, I hit upon my
present method, which has been found satisfactory. The materials used
are: a ¹⁄₂-lb. baking-powder tin; two disks, 2 in. in diameter and ¹⁄₄
in. thick, sawed from a convenient limb; a twig, 4 in. long, somewhat
smaller than a lead pencil, made smooth and straight; enough cork
stoppers, about ³⁄₄ in. in diameter at the small end, to make 3¹⁄₂ in.
in length, and a few drops of cold glue.
[Illustration]
Drill a hole lengthwise through the through the stoppers and through
the center of each disk, just large enough to allow the twig to pass
through closely. Cut from the small ends of two of the stoppers a
piece, ¹⁄₄ in. long, for pieces A and B. Pass the twig through the long
stoppers and the disks; the pieces A and B should then be glued to
the ends of the twigs projecting beyond the disks, to fasten the hook
holder together, and to be used for handles by which it may be lifted
from the box. If the hooks are dry when they are stuck into the corks
which form the center, they will keep in good condition indefinitely,
and their points will never be dulled by coming in contact with the tin
sides of the box or with each other.--C. A. King, East Kingston, N. H.
Improvement on Pocket Flash Lamps
[Illustration]
It is often desirable to concentrate the rays from a pocket flash lamp
on a limited area rather than spreading them, as is the case with many
lamps of this type. The addition of a hood, which may be slipped over
the lens, as shown in the illustration, concentrates the light in this
manner. A strip of sheet brass, about ¹⁄₃₂ in. thick, 4 in. long, and
³⁄₄ in. wide, was drilled at the center, forming an opening of the
same diameter as the lens. A brass tube was soldered to fit over the
hole. The ends of the strip were bent back at right angles, to hold the
device firmly against the sides of the flash lamp. The lamp is used
in the ordinary fashion, and the clip may be removed quickly when not
needed. It may be plated or finished to suit the metal parts of the
lamp.--Ralph W. Tillotson, Erie, Pa.
Testing Dry Cells with Light Bulb
[Illustration]
Tests of batteries for telephones, doorbells, and similar appliances,
may be made by the use of a lamp from a pocket flash light. Remove the
reflector and lamp and connect them with the poles of each cell to be
tested, as shown in the sketch. The glow of the lamp is proportional
to the amount of life in the cell. Very often but one dead cell will
be found to cause trouble. By testing carefully the good cells may be
retained and new ones substituted for those worn out.
Loading Box to Dispense with Dark Room
When a daylight developing tank is used, a dark room is needed only for
loading the plate holders and for transferring exposed plates to the
tank. These operations may be performed satisfactorily in darkness,
using a large box with holes made in the side to admit the hands,
as shown in the sketch. The box may be made of light wood or stout
cardboard. The sleeves fitted to the openings are provided with elastic
bands to insure that no light creeps in at the edges. The holders,
plates, and sponge should be arranged conveniently in the box before
beginning operations.
[Illustration: A Dark Room Is Unnecessary for the Loading of Plates
When the Device Shown is Used]
The box must be made light-proof by lining it with black cloth if
necessary. If any difficulty is experienced in identifying the film
side of the plates they may be marked with minute tabs at the corner on
the film side, or identified by moistening the finger tip on the sponge
and testing for a slight stickiness of the film side at the extreme
corner. A red window might be fitted into the box, but the device has
been found satisfactory without it.--Contributed by H. J. Gray, Lewes,
Sussex, England.
* * * * *
¶New brooms should be soaked in strong, hot salt water. This toughens
the bristles and makes them last much longer.
Rubber Bands Made from Old Inner Tubes
Old inner tubes of bicycles, or other vehicles, may be cut into rubber
bands of various widths which will be found to give good service. The
tubes should be laid flat on a hard piece of board, or a piece of sheet
zinc, and the bands cut off one at a time with a sharp knife held
against a straightedge. In cutting them on wood, it is best to use a
close-grained stock and to cut across the grain of the wood.
Sailors’ Sweetheart Picture Frame
[Illustration: The Center Panel is Reserved for the Sailor’s
Sweetheart, and in the Others Pictures of Relatives are Placed]
The boys on United States battleships are fond of making trinkets and
souvenirs to be sent home, and the sailors’ sweetheart picture frame
shown in the sketch is a favorite. Speaking from experience, I know
that many “landlubbers” will be interested in this novelty, although
coming from a man-of-war makes it more interesting. I have been there
and, therefore, I know. The place of honor in the center is of course
reserved for the lady. The smaller picture openings may be filled with
penny pictures of father and mother, or other relatives.--Contributed
by Charles Rorer, Bridgeport, Connecticut.
[Illustration: Woven Reed Furniture
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
Taborets and Small Tables for the Summer Veranda]
[The various materials referred to in this article by number or size
were described in detail in an article on “A Reed Basket,” in the Boy
Mechanic, Book 2, page 257.]
Utility and ready portability are well recognized features of
woven-reed furniture, but the qualities which make it especially
attractive for summer use in the open air, or on the veranda, are its
inviting comfort and graceful lines. While furniture of this type
arranged in suites makes a particularly harmonious showing, individual
pieces may be used in combination with other furniture, lending a
touch of variety. Small tables or taborets, of light weight and simple
design, may be made by the novice, and may be adapted to a variety of
uses. Footstools, jardinière stands, sewing tables, yard tables, and
smoking stands are some of the possibilities. Three representative
types are shown in Figs. 1 to 3, and the general method of construction
as well as the details of the weaving are also illustrated.
A serviceable taboret or stand is illustrated in Fig. 1. It is 18 in.
high, and 17 in. in diameter on the top. The sides are 9 in. wide at
the top and 14 in. at the bottom.
The framework for the top of the stand consists of a disk of wood,
16 in. in diameter, with a similar one, 14 in. in diameter, directly
underneath, the edge being set under 1 in. all around. Four legs of
1-in. doweling support it, and two cross braces of doweling are placed
between diagonally opposite corner posts, behind the woven portions of
the side. The grain of the wood in the upper disk should run at right
angles to that of the lower, to prevent warping, and the disks should
be fastened together with nails or screws. Avoid putting them into the
lower disk, where the legs are to be fixed.
To locate the position for the legs, draw a diameter on the under
side of the top, as at A, Fig. 4, and 4 in. on either side of it draw
parallel lines B and C. Draw another diameter, D, at right angles to A,
and draw the parallel lines E and F 4 in. from the diameter D. Where
the four outside lines intersect will be the centers of the holes for
the legs. These holes are not bored perpendicularly, but are slanted to
conform to the slant of the leg. A template should be used in guiding
the bit, as shown at G, Fig. 4. It may be constructed of wood, 3 in.
wide and 5 in. long, Fig. 5. Place the gauge just outside the edge of
the hole to be bored. Nail it to the board lightly on the diagonal, as
shown, and guide the bit against it.
Before the legs are fixed into place finally, the holes for the spokes
of the side should be bored. The parallel lines of Fig. 4 now serve
another purpose, that of giving the location of the spokes. Place one
spoke ¹⁄₂ in. from each leg, and the others 1 in. apart. The legs are
utilized as spokes in the weaving. The spokes should be double, and
the extra spokes may be inserted beside the original ones, after the
weaving has progressed a few rounds. Number 5 reed should be used for
the spokes and No. 4 reed for the weavers, which are woven back and
forth around the spokes.
Drive the legs into their sockets, applying glue, and pin them with
nails, as at H, Fig. 4. Tack strips on the bottoms of two pairs of
legs and then fasten two strips to brace them, as shown in Fig. 6. The
strips should be put on and the distance between the legs spaced before
the glue sets.
It is best to weave the sides before beginning the top, so as to
prevent rubbing the woven top while weaving the sides, with the stand
inverted. The side spokes should be 2 ft. long and should be set into
the top 1 in., with glue. Turn the top of the stand down on a table,
and begin the weaving at the under side of the top. Single weaving is
used for the sides, every other round passing twice around the legs.
There being four sides in the construction, there will be an even
number of spokes, even though there should be an odd number to each
side. The weaving would thus repeat itself, in going behind and before
the same spoke each time. This is not desirable in this construction,
and a change should be made each round. To do this, go over two spokes,
instead of one, at the finish of a round. Such a “skip” is an Indian
method, and forms a design that may be carried in slanting lines back
and forth down the side of the stand. It is best to confine these
“skips” to one side. Another way to overcome the repeat, as the weaving
in and out around the same spokes in two successive layers is called,
is to insert an extra spoke on one side, thus making an odd number of
spokes around the stand. It is necessary then to conform the design of
the open work for this side to the number of spokes. The design for the
open work shown in Fig. 2 will be used for the stand illustrated in
Fig. 1, and to be described in detail. The first of the two methods of
overcoming the “repeat” will be used.
Insert the extra reed for doubling the spokes, after a few rounds have
been woven adjoining the top. The method of weaving from the corner
post and the making of the open design are shown in Figs. 7 and 8. The
method of “pairing” for winding the reed in and out of the spokes, is
shown in Figs. 9 and 10. The rear weaver of the pair of strands is
thrown over the forward weaver, back of the next spoke and out. The
fore weaver then becomes the rear one, and is thrown in like manner.
This process is repeated in order to make the complete rounds. Figure
9 shows the weaving from the side, and Fig. 10 is a view looking down
on top of the spokes and the edge of the weaving, shown in section.
Pairing gives a continuous rope twist to the two weavers, and an even
or odd number of spokes is equally suitable.
For the open designs of Fig. 2, one or more of which may be placed in
the side of the stand, the center spokes are left free, as shown in
Fig. 7. Before turning the first weaver back for the open work, as at
M, start a short weaver N about two spokes back from the opening, and
pair it with the regular weaver across the opening, and two spokes
beyond. In turning back on the spokes, the single weaver goes twice
around the spokes, as shown by the intermediate layers O. This is a
short bend and the weavers must be very soft. Use short ones and wet
them frequently with a sponge. A sectional view of the weaving at the
opening is shown in Fig. 8, as it joins with the weaving around the
corner posts. At K, the weaver turns back on a double thickness of
reed, and at L, a short spoke is set back of the other two, and the
weaver is wound around the three, thus lessening the abruptness of the
winding. The latter method is the better. At the horizontal center of
the opening, two rounds continue across the opening and around the
stand. Pair a short piece of reed across at the finish of the openings,
as was done at the lower end at N, Fig. 7.
After weaving to within 5 in. of the bottom of the legs, cut off the
extra member of the double spokes, and soak the ends of the remaining
spokes in water. Braid them into the border finish, as shown in Fig. 1.
The corner posts serve as spoke spaces, and the spokes nearest them are
wound around the bottom ends of the legs. Short spokes may be inserted
beside the posts and wound around them if the ends of the spokes are
not long enough for this purpose.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 5
FIG. 6
FIG. 7
FIG. 4
FIG. 11
FIG. 12
FIG. 8
FIG. 19
FIG. 15
FIG. 16
FIG. 20
FIG. 9
FIG. 13
FIG. 14
FIG. 10
FIG. 17
FIG. 18
Taborets, of Light Weight and Simple Design, may be Made by the Novice
and Adapted to a Variety of Uses in the Home. They Are Particularly
Attractive for the Summer Veranda. Sewing Tables, Jardinière Stands,
Taborets, Footstools, Card Tables, and Smoking Stands Are Some of
the Possibilities. A Taboret, or Small Stand, is Illustrated in Fig.
1, and the Details of Its Construction are Also Shown. The Tall
Stand illustrated in Fig. 2 Involves the Same General Principles of
Construction, Modified to Suit the Framework. The Footstool Shown in
Fig. 3 Is Typical of Stands Having Vertical Sides]
The top may be made next. Holes are bored horizontally into the edge
of the under disk, as shown in Figs. 4 and 11. In Fig. 12 the holes
are shown bored into the edge on an angle. This method gives a thicker
rolled edge to the top, although both methods are satisfactory. These
holes must be bored before the work on the top is begun. There are two
ways of beginning the weaving for the top. The radial spokes may cross
each other in groups of four, the upper and lower courses being bound
together with winding reed, as shown in Fig. 13, or a small maple disk
may be used as a center from which the spokes radiate, as shown in
Figs. 14 and 20. The center-disk method is not difficult, and is used
extensively. The other type is novel, and also quite feasible.
The spokes for the method shown in Fig. 13 are bound together in the
following manner: Place two spokes at right angles to each other and
wind them with winding reed, the end of the latter beginning between
the two spokes, as shown at P, Fig. 15. The perpendicular spoke is
uppermost. Add a second perpendicular spoke and bind it into place, as
at Q. Continue this process until four perpendicular spokes have been
bound in as at R. Place a second horizontal reed into position and
go over each vertical spoke with a separate winding, as in the first
course. Continue until four horizontal spokes are bound in, and the
end of the winding reed is looped around the last, as shown at S. The
spokes should be of No. 5 reed, and 24 in. long.
Four groups of four spokes each will result by following out the
process described. Separate the spokes by drawing the outer ones into
the corner spaces. They should have the appearance of spokes in a
wheel, as in Fig. 16. Use two weavers of No. 4 reed, in the pairing
weave, as shown in Fig. 16, and in detail in Figs. 9 and 10. Continue
the pairing weave until a center, 8 in. in diameter, is woven. Crowd
up the weaving closely, for the appearance of the top will depend
much on the first few rounds. Hold the center with the left hand, and
manipulate the weavers until they are well seated in their proper
places.
When a few rounds have been woven, nail the center securely to its
place on the middle of the top. This will leave both hands free for the
weaving. After a disk, 8 in. in diameter, has been woven, begin the
triple weave illustrated in Figs. 17 and 18. As the triple weave is
begun, add another spoke, 8 in. long, between each pair, all around the
top, making 16 new and 16 original spokes. When two or three rounds are
woven, the new spokes will become secure. Continue the triple weave to
the edge of the top. Measure and cut the end of the spokes to uniform
length. Curve the ends over the edge to see how much will be needed
before cutting, allowing about ¹⁄₂ in. for insertion into the holes in
the edge.
Wet the ends of the spokes with water until they are pliable enough for
the curve. Bending and tying them down while wet and permitting them
to dry in this position, as shown in Fig. 19, is desirable also. Weave
down the curve of the roll and insert the ends of the spokes in their
respective holes with glue. Then with the single, plain weave on the
under side of the roll, weave well up to the ends of the spokes.
For the disk-center method of construction, as shown in Figs. 14
and 20, use ¹⁄₂-in. maple, and cut it 5 in. in diameter for the
centerpiece. To locate holes on the edge of the disk draw a line
³⁄₁₆ in. from the upper edge and mark off spaces 1 in. apart, except
four, which are made ¹⁵⁄₁₆ in. apart, to make a convenient division,
practically uniform. Bore the holes ³⁄₄ in. deep. Number 5 reed is
used for the spokes and No. 4 reed for the weavers. The disk should
be toenailed around its edge with brads, fixing it firmly to the top
before the spokes are inserted. Proceed with the pairing weave, as in
the other method described, until 2 in. of the spokes is covered; then
change to the triple weave and add additional spokes. Proceed as with
the other type from this point on.
The taboret is braced by two 1-in. dowel rods, placed 2 in. above the
bottom roll of the sides and extending from one corner to the other,
diagonally. Their crossing at the center may be made into a halved
joint, by cutting away one-half of each rod on the adjacent edges. The
ends are fitted closely into the corners, and are nailed to the legs.
A taller stand or small table, the side weaving of which has been
described as applied to the taboret shown in Fig. 1, is illustrated
in Fig. 2. The construction in general is similar. A lighter roll is
used for the top, and the bottom ends of the legs are curved outward
slightly. The legs are curved by steaming the ends of the corner posts,
clamping them into position, and permitting them to dry.
The footstool, shown in Fig. 3, may be made as a miniature stand, with
vertical legs, and the spokes set in a circle under the top board. The
spokes and weavers will carry the form, if well woven. The stool may
also be braced, to withstand hard usage. It should be about 12 in. in
diameter at the top, 10 in. in diameter for the body, and 6 in. in
height.
The method of forming the opening shown in the side of the taboret in
Fig. 1, and the weaving of the construction, will be readily understood
from the method described. The principles and methods presented may
be applied readily to other construction of the same general type.
The physical limitations of reed, as a constructive material, and the
necessity for a substantial framework must always be considered in such
adaptations in order to obtain satisfactory results.
* * * * *
¶One ounce of nitrate of iron added to 8 oz. of hyposulphite of soda
in a gallon of water and applied hot, produces a green finish on
brass.
Coaster with Safety Brake
[Illustration: The Brake Is a Worth-While Addition to the Coaster from
the Standpoint of Safety]
Coasting on homemade devices is much enjoyed by children, but often
accompanied with dangers because of difficulty in stopping quickly. The
sketch shows a method of applying a simple brake to such a coaster,
and the materials used may be obtained easily by boys in the home. The
rubber mat indicated in the sketch gives a secure footing. The brake
consists of a piece of wood, about 10 in. long and 3 in. wide. It is
hinged to the base and held in a raised position by a coiled string,
attached near the top of the device. A powerful pressure is obtained by
throwing the rider’s weight on the pedal.
Fountain-Pen Wrench
[Illustration: The Eraser Aids in Gripping the Barrel]
Experiencing considerable difficulty in unfastening the parts of
my fountain pen, I pressed into service an eraser in the method
illustrated. The grip on the pen parts was positive and resulted in
quickly releasing them without marring the surface or injuring the
fingers.--Contributed by Charles R. Mellen, Jr., Geneva, N. Y.
Diving Tower for the Summer Camp
Aquatic pleasures and sports at a summer camp or lake may be
considerably enlivened by the building of a diving tower like that
shown in the sketch. It has proved very successful at a boys’ summer
camp at Crystal Lake, Ill. The boys have made a practice for several
years of building a tower early each swimming season on the opening of
their camp in July and disposing of it for about $5 at the close of the
camp some weeks later. This covers the cost of the lumber, and several
resorts and cottages now boast towers made by the campers.
[Illustration: Boys at a Summer Camp Construct a Diving Tower Each
Summer and Dispose of It for the Cost of the Lumber When They Break
Camp. The Tower is Built Largely of Two by Four-Inch Stock and is
Weighted with a Box of Stone. At the Right Is a Reproduction of a
Photograph Showing the Builders Putting Their Diving Tower to Use]
The tower is built largely of 2 by 4-in. stock. The longer pieces at
the corners are 12 ft. in length, slanted so that the lower end of the
tower is 7 ft. square and the platform at the top 3 ft. square. The
handrail at the top is fixed to extensions of the rear uprights. A
spring board is fastened on two horizontal braces near the middle of
the tower, and is reached by the ladder. The structure is built on the
shore and towed out to its position. It is sunk and weighted by the box
of stone supported on cross braces.--Contributed by F. D. Lewis.
Gas Mantles Made at Home
I spent several interesting hours in experimenting with gas mantles
which I made at home, and the process should be of interest to others.
While I did not succeed in making mantles of the quality of the
commercial article, they were nevertheless successful and gave light.
Magnesium produces a white light when ignited. By using common Epsom
salts, which contain magnesium sulphate, I made a strong solution in
distilled water. I soaked a piece of gauze bandage in the solution,
dried it carefully and soaked it again a number of times, drying it
after each immersion. By this time the cloth was stiff with the dry
salt. When held in a flame, the cloth catches fire and burns out,
leaving the skeleton of magnesium sulphate. This framework, when held
in the flame, glows with an intense white light. I shaped a piece of
the gauze like a commercial mantle and dipped it into the solution as
explained. It proved quite satisfactory.--Contributed by Victor E.
Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.
Whistle Warns of Fish Catch
[Illustration: When the Fish Strikes the Bait the Water is Forced Up
into the Whistle Suddenly, and the Escaping Air Warns the Fisherman]
A toy railroad wheel, a piece of hollow cane, and pieces of wire
are the materials necessary for making the whistle shown in the
illustration, which warns a fisherman that a fish is attempting to
make away with his bait. The wheel is fitted into the end of the cane
and wedged into place to form a tight joint. The wires are formed into
loops at the ends of the cane and fixed to it. The whistle is attached
to the fishline, as shown, with the open end down and slightly below
the surface of the water. The fishpole may be fixed so that the whistle
will remain in this position while the fisherman is at ease in the
shade near by. When the fish attempts to make away with the bait, as
shown in the sketch, the water forces the air in the upper part of the
cane out through the center hole of the wheel, and a whistling sound is
the result.
Anchor for a Canoe or Small Boat
Small craft, particularly those used for fishing or on streams
where a current is encountered, should be provided with an anchor.
The illustration gives details for making one that is simple in
construction and inexpensive. It weighs about five pounds, and is heavy
enough for light craft up to 18 ft. long.
[Illustration: This Homemade Anchor Is a Practical Addition to the
Equipment of a Canoe or Small Boat, and Weighs Five Pounds]
The main section was made of a piece of 1¹⁄₂-in. angle iron, 10 in.
long. The flukes, or endpieces, were made of sheet iron, 2 in. wide and
8 in. long, bent at a right angle, and riveted in place. The straps
which hold the link, permitting it to swing freely, were made of band
iron. The link was made of an old bicycle crank, into which a ring
was forged. It may be made of iron rod, forged into the desired shape
and fitted with a ring. A convenient method of handling the anchor on
a boat is to run the line through a pulley at the bow and fasten the
end of it to a cleat, near the seat of the person handling the craft.
Care must be taken, in a canoe or small boat, that sufficient line is
provided to reach the bottom of the anchorage, as otherwise the craft
may be overturned.--Contributed by B. E. Dobree, Battleford, Sask.,
Canada.
* * * * *
¶The use of gasoline instead of turpentine for a thinner will prevent
the sagging of colors in striping.
Oiler for a Hand-Drill Press
[Illustration]
On stationary hand-power drill presses, where both hands are required
to turn the crank and hold the work, some means must be provided for
applying lubricant to the drill, or the machine would have to be
stopped from time to time to apply the oil. A very handy arrangement,
for pouring the oil on automatically, is to make a support of wire
to hold an oilcan, as shown. This will provide a slow and constant
dropping of oil on the bit.--Contributed by Bert Verne, San Diego, Cal.
Bearing for Playground Swings
[Illustration]
To have the playground swing work easily and without friction make the
hangers as shown in the sketch. The ring in the hooks produces a slight
rolling action and gives the swing a free motion.--Contributed by Edwin
J. Bachman, Jr., Fullerton, Pa.
Die in a Bottle
[Illustration]
The die is made of cork and the spots painted white. A small round
bottle is procured, the die is placed in it and the bottle is filled
with water. Be sure to have enough water to prevent any air bubbles
when it is corked tightly. The cork is then sealed in the bottle. If
there is an air bubble, the cork die will not work well.
If the bottle is held bottom up, the cork die will spin around and
float up against the bottom of the bottle where the number of spots can
be seen. It is impossible to manipulate the die to turn up any desired
spots, this being left entirely to chance. A number of bottles can be
prepared so that any of the dice games can be played.--Contributed by
Henry J. Marion, Pontiac, Michigan.
Small Hook for Hanging a Picture
[Illustration]
After an unsuccessful attempt to hang a small picture with a common
pin, I devised the following method: After bending about ³⁄₈ in. of
the point on an ordinary pin to an angle of about 45 deg. and bending
up the other end in the opposite direction to form a hook, I drove the
point on a downward slant into the wall. It went in easily and did not
mar the plaster. When making a test I found that the hook would readily
support a weight of several pounds.--Contributed by C. P. Smith, E.
Radford, Va.
Covering Hinge Wings
[Illustration]
In making fancy boxes where ordinary hinges are used, a much neater job
can be done if as much of the hinge as possible is covered. This can
be done by carefully raising a sliver with a sharp chisel as at A. The
wings are bent at an angle, as shown at B, and are then set in place,
as shown at C. The sliver is carefully glued back in place over the
hinge wing, and the surface is leveled with sandpaper.
* * * * *
¶A bit of rubber insulation stripped from an electric wire makes an
excellent holder for a scarfpin.
How to Make Hammocks
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
PART I--A Twine Hammock
Cord hammocks may be made in two or more different ways, the knots
being formed by the simple overhand tie, Fig. 1; the flat reef knot,
Fig. 2; the Solomon’s knot, Fig. 3, or by the triple throw-over, Fig.
4; or they can be knotted by the process known as netting, Fig. 5, in
which a special needle, or shuttle, is used.
[Illustration: When Making a Hammock With the Simple Overhand, Flat
Reef, or Solomon’s Knot, Loop All the Pairs of Cords at the Center
about a Rod]
In using any one of the first three methods of making the knots it is
necessary to have cords arranged in pairs and long enough to reach from
one end of the hammock to the other, allowing only sufficient length
for the take-up in tying the knots and the spread of the meshes. The
overhand knot is large, and the Solomon’s knot is a little unwieldy,
but is considered more beautiful when tied. The flat reef knot is
small, is easily tied and will not slip. The netting process has a good
knot and has the advantage of a short single cord, as the meshes are
made independently and the cord is carried on the netting needle.
It is a great advantage, when making a hammock with the simple
overhand, the flat reef, or the Solomon’s knot, to loop all the pairs
of cords at the center about a rod, Fig. 6--which may be any stick such
as an old broom handle--knotting from the center toward each end, one
side being tied, and then the other. When the first pairs are being
tied, the opposite ends should be looped up together out of the way.
Even half the length of a hammock makes a long cord to be drawn through
each time a knot is tied, and each string can be wound about the
fingers into a little bundle and secured with a half hitch, using the
same cord, and left hanging, as shown in Fig. 7, allowing sufficient
cord free to throw large loops in the tying, and to make about 10
additional meshes. About 3 ft. would be a good length to be left free.
It will be necessary to have 24 pairs of cords--48 cords in all--each
18 ft. long to make a hammock by the first two methods of tying the
knots. Seine twine of medium-hard twist and 24-ply can be obtained
from a store carrying sporting goods, and is about the best material
to use for this purpose. When these pairs of cords are looped on the
center rod, and the rod has been anchored to a wall, as shown in Fig.
8, begin by placing the mesh stick, or rather the mesh post, Fig. 9,
between the first pair of cords, A and B, at the left end of the center
rod, as in Fig. 8 and Fig. 6. The simple device illustrated in Fig. 9
is very useful for tying any one of the three first-described knots.
The device needs no explanation other than the illustration. It will be
seen that there are two sizes on the top of the post; the smaller is
for the first time across only. The mesh post should be of convenient
height for a person when sitting on an ordinary chair. One foot rests
on the base as the tying proceeds, but there is no pulling over, as the
tie draws both ways on the post, this also doing away with the pull on
the center rod.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 4
FIG. 3
FIG. 5
The Simple Overhand, Flat Reef, Solomon’s Knot, Triple Throw-Over, and
Netting Ties]
The cord to the right, B, is taken in the right hand and thrown over
the left cord A, Fig. 8, and is held by the left hand. The left cord A
is then tucked down behind the right, as shown in Fig. 10. If the right
cord goes over in making the first loop, the same cord B must also go
over in the second throw, as in Fig. 11, in order to have a proper
square knot that will not slip. The end of A is then tucked under B, as
shown by the dotted lines. This makes a very serviceable knot for the
hammock, but can be also used for other purposes. The knot is shown in
Fig. 2. Draw it up tightly, very hard, for knotting is not worth much
if it is not tied well.
In case the simple overhand knot is preferred, the mesh post is placed
between the first pair as before, and cords A and B are brought to the
front as in Fig. 12, but are carried parallel into a large loop that is
thrown over as illustrated, then tucked up through as indicated by the
dotted lines. The thumb and first finger of the left hand now slide up
to the point P, while the right hand pulls up the loop as it nears the
finish, the thumb and first finger crowding the loop down hard against
the mesh post. The small part is used for the first row across. The
knot formed is shown in Fig. 1.
[Illustration: FIG. 6
FIG. 10
FIG. 7
FIG. 9
FIG. 8
FIG. 11
The Mesh Post Has Two Sizes on Its Upper End, the Smaller for Knotting
the First Row of Meshes, and the Other for the Remaining Rows. This
Illustration Also Shows the Manner of Tying the Knots]
After tying the first pair of cords using the knot preferred, slip
the first mesh so made off the tying post and place the post between
C and D, which is the next, or second, pair. Tie the second pair and
pass on to the third pair, which is E and F. Continue moving and tying
until all the 24 pairs of cords have been similarly knotted in their
first mesh. The last knotting will be the twenty-fourth pair, which is
represented by the cords marked Y and Z. Instead of tying cords of the
same pairs on the return trip across, one cord Y of the twenty-fourth
pair is tied with one cord X of the twenty-third pair, and the other
cord W of the twenty-third pair is tied with the cord V of the twenty
second pair, and so on across the series.
On the second row of tying, the post is first placed between cords Y
and X and they are knotted together, but instead of tying about the
small part of the post the larger size is used. After cords Y and X
have been tied, cords W and V are combined. It will be seen that this
is tying the pairs together instead of combining the two cords of the
same pair. The third time across the combinations are the same as in
the first row. The large mesh is used on all but the first row. The
alternations of rows is continued until the cords are tied to within
2¹⁄₂ ft. of the end.
[Illustration: FIG. 12
FIG. 13
Tying the Overhand Knot and How to Run the First and Second Rows Across]
Pull out the center rod, insert it in the second row of meshes, loosen
the ends that were looped up and begin the knotting of the opposite
ends of the cords. When both sides are completed to within 2¹⁄₂ ft. of
the ends, the center rod is removed and inserted in the last row of
meshes. Another simple device will be found efficient, which consists
of a board, 30 in. long, three or more inches wide and 1 in. thick,
with three nails driven in slanting, as shown in Fig. 14, to prevent
the ring and rod from slipping off as the tying proceeds. One 2¹⁄₂-in.
galvanized ring will be required for each end. The ring is attached to
the single nail at the end with a string. This will be found better
than just slipping the ring over the nail, as it is necessary to have
a little more play in putting the cords through for the tying. The
distance from the rod to the ring should be 2 ft. The tie is made in
pairs as before, one cord going under and the other over the side of
the ring, using the flat reef knot. There will be a few inches of ends
remaining after the tie is made and these are brought back to the main
body of the cord and wound with an extra cord used for that purpose.
The winding is started by looping the end of the extra cord, or string,
about the whole bundle of cord together with the ends, pulling tightly
and tying securely with the flat reef knot. This is illustrated in Fig.
15. The winding should be about 1¹⁄₂ in. long where the turned-back
ends are cut off. Each time the cord is wound about the bundle it
should be looped through its own winding and drawn tightly. This is
practically the buttonhole loop. To finish the winding the cord should
be given a double looping through its own winding; then with an awl,
or other pointed tool, work a way through the under side of the other
windings so that the end may be brought out farther back and pulled
tightly, to prevent unwinding when the pull comes on the hammock.
Attach the ring to the opposite end in the same manner and the hammock
is complete.
[Illustration: Attaching the Rings to the Ends of the Cords and the
Binding near the Rings: All the Pairs of Cords are Looped about a Rod
in the Center, and the Knots are Made toward the Ends]
The edge can be bound the same as a tennis net, or a rope can be run
through the outside meshes lengthwise, as desired. A very pretty effect
can be obtained by knotting, in a similar manner to the body of the
hammock, an apron fringe for the sides.
Homemade Section Liner
For the rapid and uniform hatching of cross sections this little
device will be found to give results equaling most of the high-priced
instruments that can be purchased. It consists of a hardwood block used
in connection with a 45° triangle. The corners are cut to permit the
triangle to slide the desired distance; then, by alternately sliding
the triangle and block with the left hand, equal spacings can be drawn
without measurements of any kind.
[Illustration: Block Used in a Triangle to Move It at Equal Distances
for Making Section Lines]
Two different spacings may be drawn with one block by reversing it
and two blocks having a different location of the angles will give
four spacings, which is about all the draftsman requires in ordinary
practice. No alteration of the triangle is required with this device,
and it requires but little skill to construct it.--Contributed by J. A.
Shelly, Brooklyn, N. Y.
Tray Attachment for Developing Films
[Illustration: Roller Attached to Tray for Use in Developing a
Full-Length Film]
An ordinary tray can be used for film development, when there is no
tank at hand, by the use of the attachment shown in the sketch. It
consists of a strip of sheet metal, or tin, bent to fit under the tray
and up on both sides to provide bearings for a roller. The roller is
made of hard rubber and should be of such size that its lower surface
will be under the developer in the tray. The film is drawn back and
forth under this roller.
An Automatic Window Closer
The window closer consists of a weight, A, attached to one end of a
cord, B, which runs through several pulleys and has its other end
attached to a hook in the center of the window sash, as shown in Fig.
1. The weight A is held in an elevated position by a small trigger
which is operated with an electromagnet.
The arrangement of the weight and its control is shown in Fig. 2. The
latch C is held in a horizontal position by an extension on the arm
D, which in turn is held by a latch, E. The latch C is mounted on the
same supporting shaft as the arm D, and they are connected with a coil
spring having the tension in such a direction that it holds the latch
C down on the extension of the arm D. When the weight moves up through
the box the latch C will rise and allow it to pass down beside it. The
latch holding the lower end of the arm D may be released by means of an
ordinary vibrating bell arranged so that its clapper will strike the
extension F on the latch and thus cause its upper end to move from the
engagement with the arm D. A small coil spring is attached to the arm
D so that it will be returned to its vertical position when the weight
has passed C and thus make it ready for the next operation without any
adjustment except raising the weight and setting the clock.
[Illustration: FIG. 2
FIG. 1
FIG. 3
The Window is Automatically Closed by a Weight at the Time Set on the
Alarm Clock When the Key Closes the Electric Circuit, Causing the
Magnet to Release the Latch]
A diagram of the electrical circuit is shown in Fig. 3, in which G
represents the electromagnet to trip the trigger that supports the
weight, and H the contact which remains open until the weight is raised
to the upper position, when the spring J is forced against the spring
K and closes the circuit. The circuit still remains broken until the
contact L is closed by the key on the alarm clock, which is set in a
vertical position between two springs representing the terminals of the
wire. The contact H should be so located on the housing for the weight
that it will be closed only when the weight is resting on the latch C.
The circuit is then opened as soon as the latch C is released, and the
clapper will stop vibrating.
* * * * *
¶When a pencil becomes too short for the hand, apply paste to about 1
in. of the rubber end, roll on a sheet of paper about 6 in. long, and
almost all of the pencil can be used.
How to Make Hammocks
BY CHARLES M. MILLER
PART II--A Netted Hammock
A good hammock should be about 12 ft. long, which includes 8 ft. of
network and 2 ft., at each end, of long cords that are attached to
rings. Seine twine, of 24-ply, is the best material and it will take
1¹⁄₂ lb. to make a hammock. The twine comes in ¹⁄₂-lb. skeins and
should be wound into balls to keep it from knotting before the right
time. Two galvanized rings, about 2¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, are required.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 3
FIG. 2
The Tools Necessary Consist of a Needle or Shuttle, a Guage Board, and
a Mesh Stick]
The equipment for netting a hammock consists of a wood needle, or
shuttle, a gauge board for the long meshes at the ends, and a mesh
stick for the regular netting of the main body of the hammock, all of
which will be described in detail.
The shuttle is made of wood and is 12 in. long, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide, and ¹⁄₄
in. thick. The best material to use is maple or other hard wood, but
very satisfactory ones can be cut from good-grained pine. The sketch,
Fig. 1, shows the general shape of the shuttle, one end being pointed
and the other forked. Lay out the pointed end before beginning to cut
down to size. Place a compass at the center of the end, and with a
radius of 1¹⁄₂ in. describe the arc AB. With the intersections of this
arc and the side lines of the needle, C and D, as centers, and the same
radius, 1¹⁄₂ in., cut the arc AB at E and F. With E and F as centers
draw the curves of the end of the shuttle. The reason for placing the
centers outside of the shuttle lines is to obtain a longer curve to the
end. The curves can be drawn free-hand but will then not be so good.
The space across the needle at GH is divided into five ¹⁄₄-in.
divisions. The centers of the holes J and K at the base of the tongue
are 3¹⁄₂ in. from the pointed end. The opening is 2³⁄₄ in. long. Bore
a ¹⁄₄-in. hole at the right end of the opening, and just to the left
three holes, as shown by the dotted lines. With a coping saw cut out
along the lines and finish with a knife, file and sandpaper. Round off
the edges as shown by the sectional detail. It is well to bevel the
curve at L so that the shuttle will wind easily. The fork is ³⁄₄ in.
deep, each prong being ¹⁄₄ in wide. Slant the point of the shuttle and
round off all edges throughout and sandpaper smooth.
The gauge board, Fig. 2, is used for making the long meshes at both
ends of the hammock. It is a board about 3 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and
1 in. thick. An eight-penny nail is driven into the board 1 in. from
the right edge and 2 in. from the end, as shown by M, allowing it to
project about 1 in. and slanting a little toward the end; the other
nail N will be located later.
The mesh stick, Fig. 3, should be made of maple, 8 in. long, 1³⁄₄ in.
wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick. Round off the edges and sandpaper them very
smooth.
The making of the net by a specially devised shuttle is called
“natting,” or netting, when done with a fine thread and a suitably
fine shuttle. Much may be done in unique lace-work designs and when
coarser material and large shuttles are used, such articles as fish
nets, tennis nets and hammocks may be made. The old knot used in
natting was difficult to learn and there was a knack to it that was
easily forgotten, but there is a slight modification of this knot that
is quite easy to learn and to make The modified knot will be the one
described.
The shuttle is first wound by looping the cord over the tongue, as
shown in Fig. 4, then bringing it down to the forked end and up to the
opening on the opposite side; then the cord is again looped over the
tongue and returned to the fork or place of starting. Continue winding
back and forth until the shuttle is full. The shuttle will accommodate
from 20 to 35 complete rounds. If the shuttle is too full it crowds in
passing through the meshes and delays the work.
[Illustration: FIG. 4
FIG. 5
The Shuttle is First Wound and the Long Loops at One End Formed over
the Gauge Stick]
Attach one of the galvanized rings by means of a short cord to the nail
in the gauge board, as shown in Fig. 2. At a point 2 ft. from the lower
edge of the ring, drive an eight-penny finishing nail, N. Tie the cord
end of the shuttle to the ring, bring the shuttle down and around the
nail N; then bring it back and pass it through the ring from the under
side. The cord will then appear as shown. A part of the ring projects
over the edge of the board to make it easier to pass the shuttle
through. Draw the cord up tightly and put the thumb on top of the cord
O, Fig. 5, to prevent it from slipping back, then throw a loop of the
cord to the left over the thumb and up over a portion of the ring and
pass the shuttle under the two taut cords and bring it up between the
thumb and the two cords, as shown. Draw the looped knot tight under the
thumb. Slip the long loop off the nail N and tie a simple knot at the
mark P. This last knot is tied in the long loop to prevent looseness.
Proceed with the next loop as with the first and repeat until there are
30 long meshes.
[Illustration: FIG. 6
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
After the Completion of the Long Meshes, the Ring is Anchored and the
Mesh Stick Brought into Use]
After completing these meshes anchor the ring by its short cord to a
hook or other stationary object. The anchorage should be a little above
the level for tying the knots of the net. Tie the cord of the shuttle
to the left outside loop and always work from the left to the right;
and the first time across see that the long meshes do not cross over
each other, but are kept in the order in which they are attached to the
ring.
After tying the cord to the mesh 1, Fig. 6, bring the mesh stick into
use. Pass the cord down over the mesh stick, drawing the lower end of
the loop down until it comes against the upper side of the mesh stick
and put the thumb down upon it in this position to prevent slipping.
Pass the shuttle up through the loop 2 and draw that down to the mesh
stick. Shift the thumb from the first position to the second. Throw
the cord to the left over the thumb and about the loop 2, as shown in
Fig. 7, and bring the shuttle under both of the cords of mesh 2 and up
between the large backward loop and the cords of the mesh 2. Without
removing the thumb draw up the knot very tight. This makes the first
netting knot. Continue the cord around the mesh stick, pass it up
through mesh 3, throw the backward loop, put the shuttle under and up
to the left of the mesh 3 and draw very tight, and do not allow a mesh
to be drawn down below the upper side of the mesh stick. Some of these
cautions are practically repeated, but if a mesh is allowed to get
irregular, it will give trouble in future operations.
[Illustration: FIG. 9
FIG. 10
A Square Knot is Used to Join the Ends of the Cord When Rewinding the
Shuttle]
Continue across the series until all of the long loops have been used
and this will bring the work to the right side. Flip the whole thing
over, and the cord will be at the left, ready to begin again. Slip all
the meshes off the mesh stick. It makes no difference when the meshes
are taken off the stick but they must all come off before a new row is
begun. Having the ring attached to the anchorage by a cord makes it
easy to flip the work over. Be sure to flip to the right and then to
the left alternately to prevent the twisting, which would result if
turned one way all the time.
[Illustration: FIG. 11
FIG. 12
The Gauge Board is Again Used for the Long Loops at the Finishing End,
Then the Cords are Wound]
The first mesh each time across is just a little different problem from
all the others, which may be better understood by reference to Fig.
8. The knots Q, R, and S are of the next previous series. The cord is
brought down over the mesh stick and up through mesh 1, and when the
loop is brought down it may not draw to the mesh stick at its center;
it is apt to do otherwise and a sideway pull is necessary, which is
pulled so that the knots Q and R are side by side, then the knot at
T may be tied. When the mesh 2 is drawn down it should pull to place
without shifting, and also all the others of that row.
Continue the use of the mesh stick until a net 8 ft. long is made. When
the cord gives out rewind the shuttle and tie with a small knot that
will not slip. The weaver’s knot is good if known, or the simple square
knot shown in Fig. 9 is very good. It is too easy to make to need
direction, but unless it is thrown over just right it will slip. Let U,
Fig. 8, represent the short cord and V the new piece to be added. Place
the cord V back of U and give U a complete turn around V, Fig. 9, and
bring them together at a point above U, then to the front. Repeat the
complete turn of U about V, shown by the dotted line, and pull tightly.
If analyzed, it consists of two loops that are just alike and linked
together as shown in Fig. 10.
When the 8 ft. of netting has been completed, proceed to make the long
loops as at the beginning. The same gauge board can be used, but the
tying occurs at both ends, and since the pairs cannot be knotted in
the center, two or three twists can be given by the second about the
first of each pair. The long loops and the net are attached together
as shown in Fig. 11. Slip one of the meshes of the last run over the
nail N, and when the cord comes down from the ring, the shuttle passes
through the same mesh, and when drawn up, the farthest point of the
mesh comes against the nail. After this long loop has been secured at
the ring, the first mesh is slipped off and the next put on. All of the
long loops at this end will be about three inches shorter than at the
other end, unless the finishing nail N is moved down. This will not be
necessary.
With a piece of cord about six feet long, start quite close to the ring
and wind all the cords of the long loops together. The winding should
be made very tight, and it is best to loop under with each coil. This
is shown in Fig. 12.
The hammock is now ready for use. Some like a soft, small rope run
through the outside edges lengthwise, others prefer a fringe, and
either can be added. The fringe can be attached about six meshes down
from the upper edge of the sides. The hammock should have a stretcher
at each end of the netted portion, but not as long as those required
for web hammocks.
Gourd Float for a Fishline
A unique as well as practical fishing-line float can be made of a small
gourd. After the gourd has dried sufficiently, wire loops, to hold the
line, are inserted, or rather, a single wire is run through and looped
at both ends. The contents of the gourd need not be removed. Dip the
float in a can of varnish, or apply the varnish with a brush.
Homemade Arc Light
Those who wish to produce an arc light for experimental purposes, or
for the brief periods required by photography, will find the method of
construction shown in the sketch very simple and inexpensive. Using the
short lengths of carbons discarded by moving-picture operators, there
is no difficulty in maintaining a good arc for 15 minutes, or more,
without once manipulating the adjusting screw at the top.
[Illustration: An Efficient Arc Light for Purposes Where a Light is
Required for a Short Time]
Only three pieces of wood are necessary besides the base, and in the
preparation of these no particular care is necessary except to have
the top arm swing freely up and down without any appreciable side
movement. The carbon holders are merely strips of heavy tin, which need
only be screwed up sufficiently tight to hold the carbons in place and
yet permit their being pushed up when the top adjusting screw will no
longer operate. This adjustment may be readily taken care of by means
of a long, slender wood screw with the point filed off and a metal disk
soldered to the top. Connections are made to the carbon holders either
under a screw head or by soldering the wires to the metal.
In operating any arc light on the commercial 110-volt current some
resistance must be placed in the circuit. An earthen jar of water with
two strips of tin or lead for electrodes, will answer every purpose.
* * * * *
¶A small leak in an oil or water pipe on an automobile can be
temporarily stopped by melting a piece of rubber over the hole.
Ornamental Pencil and Pincushion Holder
A nicely polished animal horn may be turned into an article of utility
instead of being merely used as a wall ornament, as shown in the
illustration. An old lamp base, heavy enough to balance the horn,
and secured to it with a bolt, is all that is needed to effect the
transformation.
[Illustration: Fastening a Horn to a Base to Make an Ornamental Pen or
Pincushion Holder]
Knife to Trim Magazines for Binding
[Illustration: Cutter Made of a Large Straight-Edge Knife for Trimming
Edges of Bound Magazines]
There has been a number of descriptions telling how to bind magazines,
but none how to trim the edges after having bound them. Desiring to
have my home-bound volumes appear as well as the other books, I made a
trimmer as follows:
Any large knife with a straight edge will do for the cutter. I used a
large hay knife. A ³⁄₈-in. hole was drilled in the untempered portion
near the back of the handle end. Two U-shaped supports were made of
metal and fastened to the top of an old table, between which the knife
was fastened with a bolt. A piece of timber, 6 ft. long, 4 in. wide,
and 2 in. thick, was used as a lever. One end of this piece had a
U-shaped notch cut in it to straddle the supports under the projecting
ends. A board was attached to the table top, having one straight edge
set where the knife edge would just pass it.
If the knife has a good sharp edge it will do very satisfactory work.
When the edges are trimmed the knife can be removed and used for its
original work.--Contributed by E. S. Mundell, Lowpoint, Ill.
How to Repair Rubber Gloves
While making a bunglesome job of patching a pair of rubber gloves,
which I used to keep the stains from my fingers while developing
photographic plates, a physician friend happened along and told me how
to do it properly. The method is as follows: Procure a piece of card,
such as heavy Bristol board used for filing cards; spread it on one
side, rather thick, with ordinary library paste and stick it to the
rubber tissue, preferably dentists’ rubber dam of light weight; smooth
it flat, and let the paste dry. When a patch is needed cut one out,
rubber and card together, and fit it to the cut in the glove. Put the
glove on the hand inside out, moisten the patch with cement, let it
dry for a few seconds and then press it in place hard. If the tear is
large, it is easier to lay the moistened patch down and fit the edges
of the tear to it, then press hard in place. After the cement has
thoroughly dried out, soak the patch in water and remove the bit of
card. This gives a patch fastened securely to the extreme edges; flat,
water-tight, and as fit to stand boiling as any patch, for sterilizing.
After removing the card, the glove is dusted with talcum.--Contributed
by J. S. Hogans, Uniontown, Pa.
Miniature Metal-Bound Chests
BY F. E. TUCK
Boys in a manual-training class became very enthusiastic over the
making of small chestlike boxes, bound with ornamental metal, and
adapted them to a great variety of uses. The boxes were designed
to suit the taste of the maker and for use as glove, handkerchief,
jewelry, toilet, treasure and other boxes, lined with silk, and
finished in wax and varnish, in various stains. Oak was used for
most of them, and the metals employed were largely copper and brass,
although silver is suitable for small boxes. They are simple in
construction, as shown in the working drawings, and can be made in the
home workshop. The photograph reproduced shows a group of boxes, for
various purposes, and in several styles of metal binding. The long box
at the top is for gloves or ties; the larger ones are for the boys’
personal use, caring for collars, handkerchiefs, etc.; the smaller
boxes are for the dresser, providing for the care of jewelry and
similar small articles. The boxes proved great favorites as gifts, and
the monogram of the recipient may be etched into the metal.
[Illustration: These Gift Boxes, Trimmed with Ornamental Metal, were
Made by Boys in a Manual-Training Class. A Long Glove Box is Shown
Above; the Larger Boxes Are for Handkerchiefs, and the Smaller Ones for
Jewelry and Trinkets]
Well-seasoned oak is the most suitable material for the making of
the boxes, as it harmonizes well with the plain metal trimmings. The
quarter-sawed variety is preferable, being more ornamental, and less
likely to warp or twist. For most of the boxes, stock ³⁄₈ in. thick is
suitable, although this may be cut down to ⁵⁄₁₆ in. for the smaller
boxes, if convenient. The method of joining the pieces is similar
in all the varieties of boxes, and the jewel box illustrated in the
working drawings will be taken as a specimen. The sides of the box
are butted against the ends, lapping over them, flush, and nailed
with small brads. The bottom is fitted between the sides and ends, and
nailed so that the nails are concealed by the metal bands, at the four
corners, and at other points, if bands are placed near the middle. The
stock for the box is cut and finished on all sides to the following
dimensions: all pieces to be ³⁄₈ in. thick; top, 4¹⁄₂ by 7¹⁄₂ in.; two
sides, 1⁷⁄₈ by 7 in.; two ends, 1⁷⁄₈ by 4 in.; bottom, 3¹⁄₄ by 6¹⁄₄
inches.
All the pieces should be scraped carefully to a smooth finish, and the
nails started with an awl, or a slightly flattened nail of the same
size, fitted into a hand drill. Extreme care must be taken, in nailing,
that the surface of the wood is not marred, which is likely to occur
if the nails are driven into the wood too rapidly, or without starting
holes for them. The feet are cut from a strip, ³⁄₈ in. thick and ³⁄₄
in. wide, the cut edges being sandpapered smooth without destroying the
squareness and the sharp corners. They are nailed to the bottom of the
box with brads, care being taken to have the end grain of each block at
the end of the box, particularly if the metal trimmings do not cover
the blocks.
The cover is fixed in place with small plain butts, countersunk into
the wood, one leaf into the top and the other into the back of the box.
A simpler method is to set both leaves of the hinge into the edge of
the back. Care must be taken in fitting the hinges that they are set in
line with the back of the box, and holes for the screws should be made
before driving them into place. Too much care cannot be taken with the
fitting of the hinges, as the proper fitting of the lid, both as to
resting level and being in line with the edges of the box, depends on
the fitting of the hinges.
After the construction work and nailing is completed, the box may be
sandpapered carefully, rubbing in the direction of the grain, and
being careful not to round off the edges unduly. The oversandpapering
of woodwork marks the work of the careless novice. The box should be
handled as little as possible while the metal trimmings are being
fitted, and, before the finish is applied, should be gone over lightly
with sandpaper to remove dirt. When the metal pieces are fitted, and
ready to be fastened in place, the finish may be applied to the box.
Warm browns or other dark-oak finishes, are best suited to the simple
style of chest, and the metal fittings. A coat of stain should be
applied, and this followed, when dry, by a coat of filler, rubbed well
into the pores of the wood. The filler should be permitted to dry hard
and the surface is then sandpapered very lightly with a fine grade
of paper--No. 00 is best. Do not rub through the filler or stain,
particularly at the corners. Wax is the most readily applied outer
finish. Several coats may be used to give a substantial finish. A coat
of shellac, followed by coats of rubbing varnish, dried well and rubbed
between coats with No. 00 sandpaper may be applied for a high-gloss
finish. This is a more involved process and requires that the varnish
be rubbed down with pumice stone and water, and finished with an oil
polish.
Copper or brass, of No. 20 gauge or lighter, is suitable for the making
of the trimmings. The details of the handles are shown in the sketch,
at the right. Cut a back plate, ⁷⁄₈ in. by 1¹⁄₄ in., and fit the handle
of wire to it by means of a strap, bent from a strip of metal, ³⁄₈
in. by ⁷⁄₈ in. The other bands are merely strips, ¹⁄₂ to ³⁄₄ in. in
width and fitted to the size of the box, where applied. Strap hinges
of the same metal may be made, but the most convenient method for the
amateur is to fit the metal strips into place at the hinges, merely as
ornamental features. Various types of locks may be fitted into the box,
and for the worker having the necessary skill, it is interesting to
make a hasp, as indicated in the sketch.
The designing and making of the metal trimmings affords unlimited
opportunity for originality, and a good plan is to fit the desired
strips, cut from paper, to the box before making them of the metal. It
is well to remember, in this connection, that the simple bands and
forms are better suited to the plain box than ornate trimmings. Having
determined upon suitable patterns for the metal strips, cut them from
the sheet with snips, or tinner’s shears, care being taken to produce
a smooth edge. A file may be used to remove roughnesses and to round
the edges of the metal slightly. The metal is fastened with escutcheon
pins, which add to the ornamental effect if properly spaced. Holes for
them must be drilled, or punched, through the metal.
[Illustration: The Construction of the Jewelry Box Is Typical of the
Others. The Handle is Shown in Detail. The Nailing of the Bottom and
the Fitting of the Lining are Shown at the Right]
The metal may be left smooth and polished, or hammered with the round
end of a ball-peen hammer, to produce the dented effect shown on
several of the boxes in the group. This, as well as other finishing of
the metal, must be done before it is fixed in place. Beautiful colors
may be given to the metal by heating it, and observing the colors as
they “run.” A trial will enable one to judge the proper heat for the
various colors, which “run” from a light straw to a deep purple, with
various reddish intermediate tones. A brown oxidized finish, or a
verd-antique--greenish--finish may also be obtained. The metal should
be polished with wax to preserve the finish if other than the latter
type is used.
The boxes are lined with silk or other suitable material. The method is
as follows: Cut cardboard pieces to fit against the inner sides of the
bottom, sides, and ends. Pad one side of them with cotton batting, and
cover with silk, gluing the edges of it on the back of the cardboard,
as shown in the sketch. By bending the pieces slightly, they may be
inserted and glued in place. Care must be taken in handling the glue,
that the silk is not soiled. Pads of felt, or chamois skin, may be
glued to the bottom of the feet of the box, so as not to mar the
surface upon which it rests.
The most popular boxes, which are especially suitable for gift
purposes, are the jewelry, glove, and handkerchief boxes. Their
dimensions are: jewelry box, 2³⁄₄ by 4 by 7¹⁄₂ in.; glove box, 3¹⁄₄
by 5 by 13 in.; handkerchief box, 4 by 6 by 10 in. Other sizes suited
to special purposes may, of course, be designed readily, and made in
walnut, mahogany, or other cabinet woods.
A Piano or Reading Lamp
BY WILLIAM E. FINKERNAGEL
[Illustration: This Lamp of Substantial Construction and Pleasing
Design may be Made at Small Cost. The Pedestal Assembled is Shown at
the Left and Details of the Parts and of the Metal Frame for the Shade,
Above]
The lamp illustrated was designed for use in reading, the doing of hand
work at which one is seated in a chair away from a table lamp, or for
lighting a piano rack. It is light, readily moved about, easily made,
and of pleasing design. It combines construction in wood and metal,
is inexpensive, and within the range of a careful amateur craftsman.
The pedestal is shown assembled at the left, and above are detailed
sketches of the parts. The construction of the shade, which is 18 in.
square, is shown at the right. The central post is 40 in. long and 2
in. square, and the base measures 16 in. on the arms.
The stock bill for the lamp is as follows:
1 piece, 2 by 2 in., oak, for post.
2 pieces, 1 by 3 by 16 in., oak, for base.
1 piece, 1 by 6 by 6 in., oak, for cap.
1 piece, 1 by 4 by 4 in., oak, for column base.
1 piece, 1 by 2 by 3 in., oak, for braces.
Copper or brass strip, 1 in. wide and ³⁄₃₂ in. thick, for shade
frame. Wire braces for shade.
Make all the pieces, smoothing and finishing their surfaces with a
scraper, before assembling the parts. The cap A may be made first.
Square the piece to 6 in. and cut a ¹⁄₄-in. chamfer around the upper
edge. Cut the 2 by 3-in. block on one of its diagonals and smooth it to
form the braces B. Square the ends of the post C to a length of 40 in.,
and smooth up the sides. Square the column base D to 4 in. and cut a
³⁄₁₆-in. chamfer around its upper side.
Square up and smooth the cross arms E and F, for the base, to a width
of 3 in. and a length of 16 in. Bevel the upper corners 1 in., at an
angle of 45°. Bore holes with a ¹⁄₂-in. bit to form the rounded ends of
the portions cut out from the lower sides of the cross braces. Chisel
the wood away between the holes and smooth the resulting surfaces. The
half-lap joint, by which the cross braces are joined, may then be made.
It should not be made until the lower portions are cut out of the cross
braces, and the remaining portions are made of exactly the same width,
2¹⁄₂ in., according to the drawing. The joint must be fitted tightly in
what is termed a driving fit, or it will not be strong enough.
The construction may be assembled as follows, although several methods
may be adopted that will prove satisfactory: Fix the cap A to the top
of the post with glue and ¹⁄₂-in. dowels, bored not quite through the
cap. Screws may be used for this purpose, but they mar the finish of
the upper surface of the cap. Glue the braces B into the corners to
support the cap. They should be warmed before applying the glue and
rubbed slightly to bring them into place tightly and to distribute the
glue evenly. Small brads may be used to nail them in place, but care
must be taken not to mar the finish.
The column base D may be fixed to the bottom of the post in the same
way that the cap was fixed at the upper end. The cross braces E and F,
forming the base, should be glued in the half-lap joint and fixed to
the column base with glue and dowels, or screws sunk into sockets from
the lower side of the braces.
When the glue has dried, the pedestal should be scraped and cleaned
preparatory to a final sandpapering before applying the stain and
varnish.
The arms G for the shade holder are made of strips of brass or copper,
1 in. wide and 8³⁄₄ in. long, bent to the proper form, as shown in
the sketch. The straight end, 2 in. long, is provided with two holes
through which screws are fixed into the top of the cap.
The shade is constructed as follows: Make a 4-in. square, H, of brass
strip, 1 in. wide, and solder or rivet it at the joint. Make the lower
square J of the same material and in the same way, 18 in. on each side.
Solder ¹⁄₈-in. wire, of a length that will give the desired slant to
the shade, at the corners of the squares, forming a rigid frame for the
covering. Cloth or silk may be used to cover the frame.
The braces for the shade may then be fastened to the top of the cap, as
shown in the assembly sketch, and their ends shaped to hold the frame
firmly. The pedestal should be smoothed off immediately preparatory to
finishing, and the sharp edges removed slightly. Care should be taken
in sandpapering, since rubbing across the grain is ruinous, as is too
much sandpapering. The latter particularly smacks of the novice. A coat
of stain, one of filler rubbed in thoroughly, a coat of shellac, and
a finish coat of wax or varnish will give a satisfactory finish. The
shellac and varnish coats should be permitted to dry thoroughly and
should then be sandpapered lightly before applying other coats.
The electrical connections for the lamp may be made from a cord
extension to a socket fixed in the center of the cap. In some instances
it may be desirable to connect the cord from a floor socket. In that
case the post should be built up of two pieces of 1-in. thickness, and
a groove to admit the cord made in the center of it.
Sewing Rack Attached to Rocker
[Illustration: The Swinging Rack Folds under the Arm of the Chair When
Not in Use]
A rack like that shown in the illustration is convenient as a support
for articles being sewed or repaired by the home worker. It was made by
fastening two bars from a towel rack to the arm of the rocker by means
of a bolt. When not in use, the bars are folded back under the arm of
the chair. One of the bars may be provided with hooks so that scissors
and other sewing requisites may be placed on them.--Mrs. J. E. McCoy,
Philadelphia, Pa.
Glass Bottle as a Candle Lamp
[Illustration]
A candle may be carried in a glass bottle, as shown in the sketch,
with little danger of setting fire to surrounding objects, and without
permitting the melted wax to leak upon the floor. The bottom of the
bottle is cut off and the candle inserted as shown, the neck affording
a convenient handle.--Stanley Radcliffe, Laurel, Md.
A Folding Wall Desk
To provide an inexpensive desk in a shop, where space was quite
limited, the folding wall desk shown in the sketch was devised. It was
cut from a packing box and the hinged lid built up of boards of better
quality. To give a good writing surface, a piece of heavy cardboard
was fastened to the writing bed with thumb tacks and may be renewed
whenever necessary. The inside of the desk was fitted with filing
compartments arranged to care for a large variety of shop forms and
stationery. An inkwell holder made of a strip of sheet metal was fixed
to the end of the desk and the bottle suspended in it, there being
space for additional bottles also. The hinged lid is provided with a
hasp and padlock. When not in use the desk may be tilted upward and
locked against the wall with small catches. By using a T-square against
the left edge of the writing bed, a convenient drafting table for shop
sketching is provided.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
FIG. 3
The Packing Box from Which the Desk was Made is Shown in Fig. 1. The
Dotted Lines Indicate Where It was Cut to Give the Slanting Writing
Surface. The Device in Its Normal Position is Shown in Fig. 2; Hooked
against the Wall, in Fig. 3, and with the Lid Raised, Showing the
Compartments, in Fig. 5.]
The detailed construction, for the making of the desk from stock
lumber, by boys, or amateur workers with tools, may be carried out
as follows: Determine upon the size of the proposed desk. Convenient
dimensions are 30 in. long, 18 in. wide, 7 in. high at the back, and
4 in. high at the front. Use ⁷⁄₈-in. soft wood; pine and poplar are
suitable. Cut and shape all the pieces before beginning the assembling
of the parts. The wood should be planed smooth and may be sandpapered
lightly when the construction is completed, before applying a finish.
A simple arrangement of the pieces so they can be nailed together is
that shown in the sketch, which was used in making the box. First shape
the pieces for the sides, 5¹⁄₄ in. wide at the larger end, 2¹⁄₄ in.
wide at the smaller, and 16¹⁄₄ in. long. Clamp the boards together, or
tack them with two wire nails while shaping them, so that they will be
exactly alike. Make a piece 5¹⁄₂ in. wide and 30 in. long for the back,
and one the same length and 2¹⁄₂ in. wide for the front. Nail them to
the ends, as shown, permitting the slight excess material to project
over the upper edges of the sidepieces. Trim off this extra stock with
a plane so that the upper surfaces of the front and back conform to the
slant of the sidepieces. Make a strip 4 in. wide for the upper edge of
the desk, to which the writing bed is hinged. Cut pieces for the bottom
and nail them in place.
Before nailing down the upper hinge strip the interior fittings should
be made. Use wood not thicker than ¹⁄₂ in., and fit the pieces into
place carefully, nailing them firmly through the outer faces of the
desk. A better method is to make the pigeonholes or compartments with
a piece of the thin stock on the ends of the partitions, so that the
compartments are built up as a unit and slid into the desk, no nails
being necessary to hold them.
The lid should be made of sound, dry stock and glued up of strips about
3 in. wide, to prevent it from warping or twisting easily. If the
person making the desk has the necessary skill, it is best to fix a
strip, 2 in. wide, at each end of the writing bed, to hold the pieces
together and to keep the bed in shape.
The holder for the inkwell is made of a 1-in. strip of metal, bent to
the shape shown in Fig. 4, and drilled to fit small screws. A can is
supported in the holder and the bottle rests in it.
The desk may be finished by painting it or giving it a coat of shellac
and one of varnish, either after it has been stained to match adjoining
woodwork, or in the natural color.
Sewing Stand with Workbag in Top
[Illustration]
The stand shown in the sketch may be made by using part of a small
table, or by building the framework especially for the purpose. It was
made for use in connection with sewing and fancy work, and provides for
the tools and incidental materials necessary. The stand is 28 in. high
and about 15 in. square at the top. The bag built into the frame may be
made of any strong, suitable material, and its color should match the
finish of the wooden part. A row of nails are set in the top edge of
the rails to provide for spools of thread and thimbles. Scissors and
other tools are placed on the shoulder hooks fastened on the side of
the rail.
* * * * *
¶When paper sticks to a negative during printing remove it by soaking
it in the hypo bath, sacrificing the print rather than the negative.
Toy Paper Warships
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 3
FIG. 2
FIG. 4
Fleets of Battleships may be Made of Paper]
With a pair of scissors, pins, and a newspaper or two, a fleet of
warships can be made to sail the seven seas of polished floors. Strips
of paper, through which holes at opposite points have been cut, and
pinned together at one end, as shown in Fig. 1, are used for the sides
of the boat. Rolls of paper are slipped through the opposite holes,
as shown at Fig. 2, and provide support for the deck, which is a flat
piece of paper pointed at the end to fit between the sides of the
craft. A second deck fitted with funnels and masts, as shown in Fig. 3,
is made of a folded piece of paper with holes cut through it for the
masts and funnels, which are rolls of paper. If plain paper is used,
the warships may be made in several colors, which adds to the effect of
rivalry between the fleets. Other types of craft may easily be devised,
two of which are shown in Fig. 4. Not only the youngsters in the
household, but their elders as well, may find not a little amusement
and diversion in the making of a fleet of such warships, modeled after
battleships, destroyers, battle cruisers, and other vessels.
Caster Board for Scrubbing and Floorwork
A board for use in work that requires tedious kneeling, as in
scrubbing, repairing of sidewalk lights, and similar work, may be made
as follows: Procure a board, ⁷⁄₈ by 10 by 14 in., and pad it with a
section of carpet. Place three casters under it, two being set at the
rear and one at the front edge. If desired, small strips may be nailed
at the sides to prevent the knees from slipping off. Such a device
enables the user to move along the floor easily without injuring the
knees.--R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
A Lamp Cooker
An ordinary circular-wick kerosene lamp produces enough heat to do
considerable cooking, provided the heat is properly utilized. A simple
and practicable method of converting such a lamp into a cooker is as
follows: Saw a hole, 12 in. square, in the top of a small table, or
packing box of about the same height as a table. Cover this with a
piece of sheet metal, having a 4-in. hole in the center. Place a 5-in.
flowerpot over the hole in the metal, and plug up the hole in the
bottom of the pot with fire clay or plaster of Paris. Vegetables in
jars may be set around the flowerpot to cook slowly and a roast in a
pan on top of it. A wooden box, or metal pail, large enough to cover
the arrangement, should be placed over it. Air holes should be provided
in the lower box and in the cover.
[Illustration: This Lamp Cooker will Prepare Meats and Vegetables
Satisfactorily, and is Useful for the Camper and in Emergencies]
To operate the device light the lamp and when it is burning brightly,
place it under the table, elevating it so that the top of the chimney
is in the center and barely within the rim of the flowerpot. Use little
water in the vegetables and keep the caps loosely on the jars. The
roast, if well buttered, will brown nicely, and while the cooking will
require considerably more time than it would in a range, the results
will be as good, if not superior. The natural juices are preserved
by the slow cooking at comparatively low temperature. The cover may
be lifted to turn the meat occasionally. This device will appeal to
campers, summer cottagers and others.--W. W. Baldwin, New York, N. Y.
Placing a Miter Box on the Workbench
In placing a miter box on a workbench considerable space is often
wasted, and the workman is obstructed. By raising the miter box on
the bench mounting it upon two blocks, about 6 in. high and set back
about 18 in. from the front of the bench, small space is utilized, and
the tool may be used as conveniently as otherwise. The space under
the miter box and the open space in front of it are available for the
disposal of ordinary tools, and there is no danger of the saw striking
them. By making another stand, the height of the bearing surface of
the miter box, and moving this about on the bench, long pieces may be
handled with ease. This stand is removed from the bench when not in
use.--Henry Simon, Laguna Beach, Calif.
A Book and Document Protector
A device for punching identification marks in the pages of books or
papers, may be made easily by setting pins into a small box filled with
sealing wax. The box should be large enough to accommodate the desired
wording without crowding, leaving about ¹⁄₄ in. all around the edge.
Cut the box, which may be of cardboard, to a height ¹⁄₁₆ in. less than
the length of a common pin. Mark the words to be punched on a piece of
cardboard which just fits into the box. Punch holes along the letters
and transfer them to the bottom of the box. Insert pins from the
outside through the bottom of the box and permit their ends to come
out of the holes in the cardboard guide. Cut away enough of the guide
piece so that the melted sealing wax can be poured in, setting the pins
firmly. The guide piece is then removed, exposing the ends of the pins
about ¹⁄₁₆ in. If the work is carefully done they will be of uniform
length. Place heavy blotting paper or cardboard under the page when
using the punch.--D. G. Stevenson, Chicago, Ill.
Blotter Attached to Wrist Saves Time
[Illustration]
The annoyance of having to look for a misplaced blotter or to pick it
up each time a signature is to be blotted, may be avoided by the use of
the wrist blotter shown in the sketch. It is made by folding a piece
of blotting paper, 6 in. wide and 12 in. long, into three sections.
A rubber band is placed in the fold of the blotter and passed around
the wrist, thus holding it in place until no longer needed. When one
portion of the blotter becomes soiled, the folding may be reversed and
a new surface exposed.--Frank W. Roth, Joplin, Mo.
Celluloid Cover for Road Maps
Road maps are easily soiled and torn unless properly protected, and
a satisfactory case to hold them should provide for conveniently
examining the map. A piece of transparent celluloid about twice the
size of the map when folded can be made into a suitable cover. Fold the
celluloid into an envelope form and rivet or sew the ends, leaving the
fourth edge open. The map is inserted in the cover with the desired
section uppermost, affording protection and ready access at the same
time.
Shield for Heater in Chick Brooding House
[Illustration]
A shield of sheet metal, having a small heater in the center of it,
provides a good means of warming a brooding house for small chicks. The
heat is radiated from the shield and the chicks remain at a distance,
seeking a comfortable temperature. The device may be made easily by
cutting a sheet of metal to form a cone-shaped hood and fitting it with
a vent passing out through the roof of the house.--Samuel S. Snelbaker,
York, Pa.
Kink for Removal of Wall Paper
[Illustration]
Removing old wall paper, particularly from the ceiling of a room, is a
disagreeable task at best, and the device shown in the sketch aids in
the process. A board, about 15 in. long and 12 in. wide, was provided
with strips at its edges and a pad of flannel was fitted into it.
The device is used by moistening the pad and applying it to the wall
paper. The paper is loosened thoroughly and may be removed in pieces of
considerable size. This method has been found much quicker than that
of soaking the paper with a moistened brush.--J. H. Moore, Hamilton,
Canada.
* * * * *
¶A clay pipe may be used as a crucible for melting small quantities
of metal.
The stem is broken off and a plug fitted into it.
A Secret Trinket Case for the Bookshelf
BY T. H. LINTHICUM
Practical use as well as the novelty of its construction makes the
trinket case shown in the illustration well worth the time and effort
necessary to make it. Various kinds of wood--preferably of the better
cabinet varieties--are suited to the design shown, which was made of
³⁄₁₆-in. stock, like that used in cigar boxes. The size shown is that
of a bound volume of a magazine like Popular Mechanics, and may be
adapted to special needs. The back and the cover slide in grooves,
which are not visible when the “book” is closed, making it difficult
and interesting for one to discover how the case is opened. The back
may be marked and lettered to resemble a bound volume closely, and if
special secrecy is desired, it may even be covered with leather, in
exact duplication of those on a bound set of magazines kept in the
bookcase with it.
[Illustration: This Trinket Case Is a Practical Novelty That may be
Used as a Secret Container to be Set on the Bookshelf with Similar
Bound Volume]
Make the pieces for the frame of the box first. If possible, make one
strip of the proper width--2 in., in this case--and long enough for
the two ends and the front. Make another strip 1³⁄₄ in. wide and long
enough for the partition and false back of the tray. Cut these to the
lengths indicated in the detailed sketches of the parts. Mark out the
grooves in the end pieces carefully and cut them with a saw that cuts
a groove ³⁄₃₂ in. wide. The grooves may be cut by clamping a straight
strip of wood on the surface of the ends the proper distance from the
top, and sawing cautiously along the strip to the proper depth. The
grooves across the grain may be cut similarly, or in a miter box.
Glue the pieces of the frame together, taking care that the corners are
square. If necessary, place blocks inside to insure that the clamping
will not disturb the right angles of the box. Shape the bottom and
cover pieces nearly to the final size before gluing them; then, if
small nicks are made in the edge, they may be removed by a cut of the
plane, when the case is complete. Glue the sliding pieces to the cover
and to the back. This must be done carefully, and it is convenient to
drive small brads part way into the second piece, from the inner side,
to prevent the pieces from slipping while being glued. If proper care
is taken, only a small amount of glue will be forced out, and this
can be removed with a chisel when dry. The edges may be trimmed off
to their exact size, and the entire construction given a final light
sandpapering. It is then ready for the stain and shellac, or other
finish. The parts that slide in grooves should not be shellacked or
varnished, because this is apt to cause them to stick.
A Cylinder Reversing Switch
[Illustration]
A cylinder reversing switch for small battery motors may be constructed
cheaply, from a 3-in. length of broom handle and ¹⁄₂-in. boards, as
shown. The four brushes are strips of copper. The contacts on the
moving cylinder are eight brass tacks, connected as indicated in the
diagram. The wires are insulated with paper where they cross. The
handle is of heavy wire, and two tacks limit its motion, as shown. The
method of connecting the switch is as follows, for either a series or
shunt motor: Remove the two wires from the motor brushes, and connect
the two middle brushes of the switch to the motor brushes. Connect
the wires removed from the motor brushes to the outer brushes of the
switch.--Claude Schuder, Sumner, Ill.
Summer Radiator Cover Serves as Cupboard in Winter
[Illustration: This Radiator Cover is Built so That Shelves may be
Inserted Quickly for Use as a Cabinet]
Because of the accumulation of dust on a kitchen radiator in the
summer, a cupboard was built over it, and used at other seasons of the
year for the storage of various articles, by fitting it with shelves.
While in use as a radiator cover, the top of the cupboard provided a
convenient seat. If properly made, cabinets of this type can be used in
other parts of the home to advantage.
A Safety Spring for Porch Swings
[Illustration]
It is often necessary to hang swinging porch seats fairly close to
surrounding woodwork, which is marred by their swinging too far. To
overcome this, procure a coil screen-door spring and cut it in two.
Bend a hook on each cut end, and fasten one of the springs to the
center of each end of the swing, and to the floor. This permits only
gentle swinging.--F. C. Hayes, Niagara Falls, Canada.
* * * * *
¶Proper ventilation of cellars makes it desirable to provide a screen
door on the cellar entrance.
Frying Pan Made of Tin Cover
[Illustration]
If you want an egg done to perfection try the frying pan made of a
tin cover. It was intended for emergency use only, but proved so
satisfactory that I kept it as a regular fixture. The wire handle
was fitted to the rim through two holes, as shown and hooks under
the bottom of the pan, the twisting of the wires giving the required
strength.
Safety Cover for Valves on Gas Stove
[Illustration]
In order to safeguard the valves of a kitchen gas stove with which
children might occasionally meddle, I fitted a sheet-metal cover over
the valves as shown in the sketch. The cover is wired to the feed
pipe and is swung forward, as indicated by the dotted outline, when
not in use. Small catches may be fixed at each end of the cover, if
desired.--Leroy Schenck, Mount Vernon, N. Y.
A Come-Back Rolling Can
[Illustration]
An interesting toy may be made by fitting a rubber band into a tin can
and weighting it as shown. When the can is rolled on the floor it will
return to its original place by reason of the weight which is supported
on a string at the middle of the rubber band. The latter is passed
through two holes at each end of the can, and when the can is rolled
along the floor the elastic is wound at the middle. The weight reverses
the direction of rolling.--Albert French, Hamilton, Ontario, Can.
Removable Paraffin Covers for Jars
[Illustration]
To remove paraffin from the tops of glasses or jars of preserves,
without getting bits of the covering into the contents, is difficult.
When pouring the melted paraffin over the top, put a small cork in the
center and let the paraffin harden around it, as shown. To remove the
covering, dip the top of the glass in hot water. This sealing can be
used again by placing it on the top of hot jelly, the paraffin melting
and adhering to the glass.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
A Marble-under-Bridge Game of Skill
[Illustration]
The object of this game is to pass a marble from one end to the other
of the “roadway,” under the “bridges,” and over the “inclines,” without
dropping it. A stop must be made at each hole. The device is made as
follows: Cut two pieces of wood, ¹⁄₄ by 1³⁄₄ by 12 in., and join them
to form a right angle. Cut pieces of cardboard, 4 each, 1³⁄₄ by 2¹⁄₂
in. wide, with a ³⁄₄-in. hole in the center, for inclines B, and 1³⁄₄
by 3 in., for bridges A; also two pieces 1³⁄₄ in. square for stops C.
Fasten them with tacks as shown. The marble should be large enough so
that it will rest in the holes at B.
[Illustration: Decorative Toys _and_ Boxes
Made at Home
By Bonnie E. Snow]
Homemade toys and gifts, as well as the “treasure boxes” in which
they are contained, have an added interest both to the one making and
the one receiving them. The holiday season makes this work especially
attractive, which affords opportunity for individuality in construction
and design limited only by the skill of the worker. The decorated
toys and the box described in detail in this article are suggestive
only, and may be adapted to a large variety of forms and designs. The
gorgeously colored parrot and the gayly caparisoned rider and horse
suggest a host of bird and animal forms, those having possibilities for
attractive coloring being most desirable. The decorated box shown in
Fig. 7 may be adapted as a gift box, to be used where its decoration
may be seen, in the nursery, for example, and may be made in many
forms, in fact as various as cardboard boxes are. Plant, animal, or
geometrical forms may be used to work out designs, and appropriate
color schemes applied to them. A good plan in determining upon a color
scheme is to use the colors of the flower or other motif. If the design
is not associated with objects having varied colors--a geometrical
design, for instance--harmonious colors should be chosen. These may be
bright and contrasting, as red and green, violet and orange, or subdued
in tone.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
The Outlines for the Horse and Rider and the Parrot may be Made by
Enlarging These Sketches. The Color Scheme Indicated is Suggestive Only
and may be Varied to Suit Individual Taste]
A design for a horse and rider, brightly colored, is shown in Fig. 1.
The form is cut out of thin wood, the color applied, and the figure
mounted on the curved wire, weighted at one end, as shown in Fig. 6.
The toy adds a touch of color and novelty to a room, when suspended
from the corner of the mantel, from a shelf, or other suitable place.
Balanced in a striking attitude, forefeet upraised, even grown-ups can
hardly resist tipping the rider to see his mount rear still higher. The
parrot shown in Fig. 2 is made similarly, and is weighted at the end of
the tail. The point of balance is at the feet, which may be fastened
to a trapeze, or be arranged to perch on a convenient place, like that
suited to the horse and rider.
The tools and equipment necessary for the making of such toys are
simple, and available in most boys’ workshops or tool chests. A coping
saw, like that shown at A, Fig. 3, is suitable for cutting the wood.
A fretsaw, operated by hand, foot or power, may be used, and such a
tool makes this work quite rapid. To use the coping saw to the best
advantage, particularly if the work is to be done on a table which must
not be marred, a sawing board should be made. In its simplest form,
this consists of a board, as shown at B, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, 3¹⁄₂ in.
wide, and 6 in. long, with one end notched. This is clamped to the end
of the table, as at D, with a clamp, an iron one of the type shown at
C being satisfactory. Another form of sawing table especially useful
when it is desired to stand up at the work, is shown at E in detail
and clamped in the vise at F. It consists of a notched board, 3¹⁄₂ in.
wide, fixed at right angles to a board of similar width, 11 in. long,
and braced at the joint with a block about 1³⁄₈ in. square. In using
the coping saw with either of these saw tables, the wood is held down
on the support, as shown in Fig. 5, and the saw drawn downward for each
cutting stroke, thus tending to hold the board more firmly against the
saw table. It is, of course, important that the saw be inserted in the
coping-saw frame with the teeth pointing toward the handle, so that the
method of cutting described may be followed. The wood must be sawed
slowly, especially at the beginning of a cut. The operator soon learns
the kinks in handling the saw and wood to the best advantage, and can
then make rapid progress.
[Illustration: A
B
C
D
E
F
FIG. 3
The Tools Required are Found in Most Boys’ Workshops, and a
Satisfactory Saw Table may be Made Easily, as Shown in Detail]
An outline drawing of the form to be cut out of the wood must first
be made, to the exact size that the object is to be. There is much
satisfaction if working out the form of the animal or other figure,
especially for the boy or girl who has the time necessary to do good
work. If desired, the figure may be traced from a picture obtained from
a book, magazine, or other source. Cut a piece of wood to the size
required for the design, and place a sheet of carbon paper over it; or
if none is available, rub a sheet of paper with a soft pencil, and use
this as a carbon paper, the side covered with the lead being placed
next to the wood. The carbon paper and the sheet bearing the design
should then be held in place on the wood with thumb tacks, or pins, and
the transfer made with a pencil, as shown in Fig. 4. The design should
be placed on the wood so that the weaker parts, such as the legs of the
horse, will extend with the length instead of across the grain of the
wood. In some instances, where a complicated form is cut out, it is
necessary to use wood of several plies, and where this is available it
is worth while to use it for all of this work. For smaller objects wood
³⁄₁₆ in. thick is suitable, and stock up to ¹⁄₂ in. in thickness may be
used. Whitewood, basswood, poplar and other soft, smooth-grained woods
are suitable.
[Illustration: FIG. 4