The outside dimensions of the kitchen, when closed and in the form

of a large box on wheels, are 5 ft. 3 in. long, 3 ft. wide, and 2¹⁄₂

ft. high. The main feature of this entire kitchen is its compactness.

At the front, and extending about 1 ft. back, is a kitchen cabinet

where the plates, sugar, salt, flour, etc., are kept in separate

compartments. Here also are found the necessary cooking utensils, such

as bread knives, butcher knives, cleaver, cooking spoons, pancake

turner, sieves, large forks, lemon squeezer, etc.; and on the shelves

of galvanized iron small boxes and packages of baking powder, cocoa,

etc., are placed. This entire compartment, as well as all others where

food is handled and prepared, is lined with No. 28 gauge galvanized

iron which makes sanitation a feature also.

Upon passing around to one side there can be seen a large three-shelved

oven, 21 in. wide, which is heated by a gasoline burner. Between the

burner and the bottom of the oven are located coils of pipe for heating

water, and these coils are connected with a tank of 7-gal. capacity,

located just above the oven. An air valve and glass gauge are attached

to the tank.

The next compartment to the rear is a large storage space, extending

all the way through the kitchen, and a 2¹⁄₂-gal. forged-copper gasoline

tank occupies a shelf in the upper portion of this space. At the

rear end along this side are located nickelplated faucets which are

connected with the hot-water tank mentioned; a 7-gal., white enameled

milk tank above; an 18-gal. cold-water tank, and an ice-water tank,

used when distilled-water ice can be secured. These faucets all drain

into a small sink, which, in turn, drains off through an ordinary sink

drain to a hole dug in the ground beneath it. Practically the entire

rear end of the kitchen is occupied by the large water tanks, ice box,

and milk tanks, with the exception of a small space at the bottom where

the silverware is kept in a drawer.

On the other side, and to the rear, two compartments above and below

the large water tank form excellent storage space for ham, bacon,

sausage, preserves, butter, etc., which need to be kept in a cool

place. Next in line is the other end of the large storage place which

extends through from the other side. Pans, pails, canned goods, larger

packages, etc., are kept in this space.

Immediately to the rear of the kitchen cabinet, on this side, are

located compartment shelves where the tin cups are kept, and adjoining

this is found a three-compartment steam cooker. By having the cups and

plates near this steam cooker, which is also heated by a gas burner,

there is less danger from rust, as they are kept thoroughly dried.

Wherever there is a gasoline burner the compartment in which it is

located is not only lined with galvanized iron, but asbestos in sheets

is placed on the inner side, so that the heat will not ignite the

interior packing or the woodwork. The tanks are accessible from the top

of the kitchen for filling and cleaning, and are packed with ground

cork.

The kitchen has shown its efficiency by giving satisfactory service in

camps of many members.

[Illustration:

Hungry Campers Quickly Provided For from the Compact, Easily

Transported Kitchen, Shown with Supply Cabinets on Left and Utensil

Cupboards on Right

The Kitchen Outfit Compacted into Its Cabinet, Mounted on Wheels and

under Transport

The Portable Kitchen Outfit Opened, Exposing the Various Compartments

Arranged So as to Be Convenient: Above, Stove and Cooking Compartments;

Below, Pantry Compartment and Space for Utensils]

Bird House Made of Kegs

[Illustration]

Two ordinary nail kegs, or other small kegs, will make a good bird

house. They should be mounted on a square post with braces of light

wood, as shown. The openings for the entrance can be cut in the ends

or sides, as desired. If cut in the sides, be sure to make the hole

between two staves.

A Drinking-Glass Holder

[Illustration]

To make a glass holder quickly, shape a wire as shown in the

sketch. The wire should be of sufficient size to hold the glass

firmly. It is fastened to the wall, or support, with a screw and a

staple.--Contributed by Edwin P. Stott, Chicago, Ill.

Needle Threader for a Sewing Machine

[Illustration]

The threader consists of two brass pieces riveted together so that they

will make an extension conical hole for the thread to enter freely.

The length of the pieces should be such that when the upper end of the

threader is placed against the needle-holder end, the conical hole will

coincide with the hole in the needle. A piece of thin sheet metal is

placed between the pieces above the conical hole to make an opening

below for the thread to pass through when the threader is removed. The

opposite edges of the brass pieces from the large part of the conical

hole are filed to a bevel so that when they are riveted together they

will form a V-shaped groove to center the needle.--Contributed by

Harriet M. Kerbaugh, Allentown, Pa.

Winding Coiled Springs

[Illustration]

When a helical spring is needed badly, one can be made up quickly by

winding the wire around in the threads of an ordinary bolt. An accurate

spring can be formed, and the pitch between each coil will be exact for

the entire length. In removing the spring from the bolt, grasp the coil

in one hand and turn the bolt with the other.

Revolving-Wheel Ruling Pen

[Illustration]

A ruling pen that will do neat work and not leave any ink on the ruler,

and which with its small ink fount draws many lines at one filling, can

be made from an old discarded revolving-wheel glass cutter. A ¹⁄₈-in.

hole is drilled in the body, or handle part, just above the wheel. The

hole is filled with a piece of felt--a piece cut from an old felt hat

will do--rolled to fit snugly, so that it will bear lightly against the

wheel. The felt is soaked with the ink to be used, and the pen is ready

for use.--Contributed by Bert Fish, Rochester, N. Y.

* * * * *

¶An excellent method of closing a crack in a wall before papering is

to paste a thin strip of linen over the crack. This not only makes

a smooth job, but prevents the paper from tearing, should the crack

widen.

[Illustration]

A Portable Folding Boat

BY STANLEY L. SWIFT

A boat that is inexpensive, easily made, and readily transported is

shown in the illustration. Since the bow section folds inside of the

stern portion, it is important that the dimensions be followed closely.

The material used is ⁷⁄₈-in. throughout.

[Illustration: The Construction of the Portable Boat Is Simple. When

Folded It may be Transported Readily and may Even be Carried in Three

Parts. It Is Inexpensive, and should Prove a Valuable Addition to the

Camping Outfit]

Make a full-size diagram of the plan to determine the exact sizes of

the pieces. Brass screws are best for fastening this type of work, but

copperplated nails may be used. Tongued-and-grooved stock is best for

the bottom. The joints should not be driven together too firmly, to

allow for expansion, and all joints in the boat should be packed with

red lead or pitch.

The adjoining ends of the sections should be made at the same time,

to insure a satisfactory fit when joined. Braces are fixed into the

corners.

Metal straps hold the sections together at the bottom of the hinged

joints. These should be fitted so that there is little possibility of

their becoming loosened accidentally. The front end of each strip is

pivoted in a hole, and the other end is slotted vertically on the lower

edge. Their bolts are set firmly into the side of the boat, being held

with nuts on both sides of the wood. A wing nut, prevented from coming

off by riveting the end of the bolt, holds the slotted end. Sockets for

the oars may be cut into hardwood pieces fastened to the gunwales. The

construction of the seats is shown in the small sketch at the left.

Nontangling Pasture Stake

[Illustration: The Wheel Revolves on the Stake, Preventing the Rope

from Tangling]

An old carriage wheel and axle were used to good advantage in the

making of the pasture stake shown in the sketch. When the animal

tethered to the wheel walks around the stake, it is practically

impossible for the rope to become tangled, as the wheel revolves on the

axle.--Contributed by W. F. Quackenbush, New York, N. Y.

Inkstand Made of a Sheet of Paper

[Illustration: A Sheet of Heavy Paper Quickly Transformed into a Holder

for Ink Bottle and Pen]

Drawings are not infrequently ruined by the spilling of ink, which

might have been averted by the use of the simple inkstand cut from a

sheet of heavy paper, as shown in the sketch. The upper illustration

shows the method of cutting the paper to fit the ink bottle and

stopper, and to produce a pen rack. The device will be found especially

useful when materials for drawing are used away from a place especially

fitted for the purpose, since the inkstand can be made in a few minutes

from material readily available.--Contributed by Henry C. Franke, Jr.,

Philadelphia, Pa.

How to Wind Wire on Electrical Apparatus

When a beginner, it was the despair of the writer to try to produce

in his homemade apparatus the mathematical regularity and perfection

of the winding on the coils of electrical instruments in the supply

stores, but when he found that this professional and workmanlike finish

could be obtained by means of a simple contrivance, and a little care

and attention to details before beginning, experimental work took on a

new interest.

At the outset let it be stated that wire should never be wound directly

on the iron core, not only because it cannot be done satisfactorily

in that manner, but for the reason that it is often desired to remove

a coil from a piece of apparatus after it has served its purpose. It

is therefore advisable to make a bobbin, which consists of a thin,

hard tube with two ends. The tube may be easily formed by wrapping a

suitable length of medium-weight paper on the core, having first coated

it with ordinary fish glue, excepting, of course, the first 2 or 3 in.

in direct contact with the core. Wind tightly until the thickness is

from ¹⁄₃₂ in. to ¹⁄₁₆ in., depending upon the diameter of the core, and

then wrap with string until the glue hardens, after which the tube may

be sandpapered and trimmed up as desired.

Where the wire is not of too small a gauge and is not to be wound to

too great a depth, no ends will be necessary if each layer of wire is

stopped one-half turn before the preceding one, as indicated in the

accompanying sketch, and is also thoroughly shellacked. With ordinary

care magnet wire may be wound in this manner to a depth of over

one-half inch.

[Illustration: Winding a Coil of Wire so That the Layers will be Even

and Smooth]

The tube having been made ready, with or without ends as may be

necessary, the small winding jig illustrated is to be made. All that

is essential is to provide a suitable means for rotating by hand a

slightly tapering wood spindle, upon which the tube is to be pushed.

The bearings can be just notches made in the upper ends of two

standards, through each of which a hole is drilled at right angles to

the length of the spindle, so that some string or wire may be laced

through in order to hold the spindle down. A crank may be formed by

winding a piece of heavy wire around the larger end of the spindle. A

loop of wire, or string, is to be attached at some convenient point,

so that the crank may be held from unwinding while adjusting matters

at the end of each layer, or while making a connection. There should

also be provided a suitable support for the spool of wire, which is

generally placed below the table to good advantage. Much depends, in

this sort of work, upon attention to these small details, after which

it will be found that the actual winding will require very little

time.--Contributed by John D. Adams, Phoenix, Ariz.

* * * * *

¶A No. 10 gauge shotgun cartridge shell telescoped with a No. 12

gauge shell forms a convenient match safe for campers, or other

persons out of doors, and is moisture-proof.

Hourglass Sewing Basket

Two oblong peach baskets, their bottoms fastened together and the whole

covered with silk, formed the hourglass sewing or darning basket shown

in the sketch. Square plum baskets and other forms trimmed in cretonne,

linen, or inexpensive goods, depending on the intended use, may also be

utilized. Ornamental details may be added to suit the individual taste.

[Illustration: Artistic Effects may be Produced by the Inventive Woman]

The basket was made as follows: The peach baskets were wired together

at their bottoms. A piece of silk was cut, wide enough to reach from

the top to the bottom of the joined baskets and to permit the folding

over of a portion at the top and bottom. One long edge of the piece was

glued to the inner edge of the bottom and drawn in around the sides to

form neat folds. The upper edge of the silk was then glued in the top,

being folded over the edge.

A cord was fixed around the middle of the basket, as shown in the

sketch. A lining was glued into the top and bottom. It was folded

and stitched along its edges to prevent raveling and to give a smooth

finish. The bottom need not be lined, but it is desirable to have it so.

The pincushion was made by padding a block with cotton and then

covering it with silk. A cardboard box may be used instead. The

cushion was nailed into place from the bottom. Ribbon may be used

to draw the silk to the sides of the basket at the middle, and a

cushion may be made entirely of cotton or cloth and attached with

ribbons.--Contributed by Thomas J. Macgowan, Mount Vernon, N. Y.

A Perpetual-Motion Puzzle

The fallacy of perpetual motion is now so generally understood that

the description of a new scheme for attaining it is only justified in

so far as it may be instructive. The sketch illustrates such a device,

apparently successful, and the discovery of the error in it is both

instructive and interesting.

[Illustration: The Interaction between Poles of the Magnets Causes the

Traveler to Move around the Triangle]

Mount a horseshoe magnet on a wooden base, and into the latter cut a

continuous groove along the three sides of a triangle opposite the

poles of the magnet, N and S. Suspend a long, narrow bar magnet on a

universal joint from a standard. A pin projects into the groove from

the lower end, which is its north pole, and can move only along the

triangular course.

Start the device with the suspended magnet in the position shown. The

lower end will tend to move in the direction of the arrows, because in

so doing it is getting farther away from the repelling north pole of

the horseshoe magnet and nearer the attracting south pole, which action

will bring it to the corner of the triangle in the foreground. It will

next move down the side as indicated by the arrow, because along that

line it is nearer the attracting south than the repelling north pole.

When it reaches the end of its trip, at the angle between the poles of

the magnet, the attraction and repulsion will be balanced, but a slight

jar will carry the traveler beyond the angle.

The third leg of the triangle will be covered similarly, the north

pole repelling the traveler. On this basis the motion should continue

indefinitely, but a test will show that it will not do so.

The corners of the triangle should be rounded slightly and it would be

better to use several hanging magnets, flexibly connected, so that when

one is at the dead center the others will carry the traveler on.

How to Transfer Drawings

Soiling of drawings transferred with carbon paper may be avoided by

substituting a piece of unfinished paper, the surface of which has been

covered with a thin coating of lead rubbed from the pencil. If any

errors are made in the tracing, or undue pressure is applied with the

hand, the resulting impressions may be removed readily with an eraser.

If a copy of a drawing is desired, and it is not necessary that the

same relative left and right position be maintained, the original

pencil drawing may be placed face downward on a sheet of paper and the

back of it rubbed with a bone paper knife, or other smooth, rounded

object. By going over the impression and making a reverse of it in

the same way a copy of the original in the same relations may be

obtained.--Contributed by J. E. Pouliot, Ottawa, Canada.

[Illustration]

Pivoted Searchlight Made of an Old Milk Strainer

BY JOHN J. SPAULDING

Both as a safety device and a practical novelty, a homemade searchlight

for a canoe, or other small craft, is worth while making. An old

milk strainer was used for the reflector of that shown, and many

equally serviceable makeshifts can be devised easily from old cans, or

formed from sheet metal. The detailed construction, as indicated, is

suggestive only, since local conditions and materials available will

govern the design of the fittings. The light has a double control, one

cord governing the vertical adjustment, and another, arranged like

that of a ship’s wheel, the horizontal pivotal range. The vertical

adjustment is desirable, but not essential. The control cords are run

in screw eyes along the coaming of the craft, so that one person can

paddle the canoe, and adjust the searchlight as well. Dry cells, stored

under the bow deck, or in a box set at some other convenient place,

supply the current for the 6-volt lamp.

[Illustration: Canoeing and Boating at Night Is Safer and More

Pleasurable if the Craft is Equipped with a Searchlight. This One was

Made of Pick-Up Materials at Small Cost]

[Illustration: The Support for the Reflector is Pivoted in the Deck,

Reinforced as Indicated]

The main dimensions of the fittings, as detailed, are: strainer, 10

in. in diameter and 10 in. long; vertical support, 12¹⁄₂ in. over all,

and 6 in. wide at the upper portion; the wood used is ¹⁄₂ and ³⁄₄

in. thick, except that for the pivot post, which is 1 in. thick. The

reflector is fitted with a wooden block through which the porcelain

socket is set, as shown. A knife switch, placed near the stern of the

craft, controls the connection with the battery circuit.

The inside of the reflector should be polished with emery cloth, and if

the surface is rough, it may be painted with white enamel. The outer

surfaces of the metal part are painted black. The wooden parts may

be painted, or given several coats of spar varnish, to withstand the

weather.

Gravity-Feed Coal Hopper on Truck

[Illustration: The Large Capacity of the Hopper and the Ready

Portability of This Arrangement Are Practical Features]

In the large farm kitchen, in the workshop, and even for firing a

small furnace, a coal hopper that will hold considerable coal, and

that can be rolled along the floor easily, is a convenience. Such an

arrangement, made from a section of galvanized-iron pipe, 10 in. in

diameter and 30 in. long is shown in the sketch. The pipe was cut at

one end, as shown, so that when the coal was poured into the hopper,

it would feed out. A truck, mounted on casters, was made, 12 in. wide,

5 in. high, and 25 in. long. The hopper was mounted on one end of it,

and bolted securely at the sides and end. The coal is shoveled into the

hopper at the bin, and the load pushed to the furnace, where it can be

easily used as needed. The construction can be made larger for use with

a coal scoop, in firing a boiler or large furnace.--L. R. Markwood,

Factoryville, Pa.

Taking Photographs in Falling Snow

Falling snowflakes in a camera photograph--the large feathery, slow

falling kind--often make an exquisitely beautiful picture out of a

commonplace scene. And while the great majority of the attempts to get

them prove failures, the photographer--usually an amateur-needs only to

provide an avenue in front of his lens a short distance, that is free

from falling flakes by the use of a shelter such as a tree or porch.

The slow snapshot necessary in cloudy weather will not stop the motion

of the flakes nearest the camera and these passing through greater

angles of space in equal length of time than those farther away, will

blur on the negative. We made some excellent outdoor views in deep

snow, while heavy snow was falling, with flakes splendidly decorating

the darker regions of figures and foliage, by holding a felt hat and

two umbrellas in a line in front of the camera, and above the range of

the lens.--J. Cecil Alter, Cheyenne, Wyo.

A Double-Contact Vibrator

[Illustration: When the Vibrator Touches One Contact, the Coil on

the Opposite Side Attracts the Vibrator, This Process being Repeated

Alternately]

A double-contact vibrator, which eliminates sticking contacts, spring

troubles, and other sources of annoyance, in addition to producing

a fine high tone, is shown in the sketch. It is an instrument easy

to construct, by reason of its simplicity. Special care in making

the vibrator D will insure good vibration. The springs, holding the

contacts, are of phosphor bronze The contacts may be made of silver

platinum, or other metals, which will not burn and break contact.

The coil B are of the common bell-ringing type. The springs on the

vibrator should not be too long, nor too weak; experimenting will

determine the length at which they will work best. The adjustment is

made at the thumbscrews A. The coils are supported on metal brackets,

bolted to a wooden base. The method of hooking up the vibrator in the

key circuit is shown in the diagram.--J. L. Taylor, Barker, N. Y.

Battery Buzzer Converted into a Telegraph Sounder

[Illustration: The Amateur can Practice the Morse Code Handily on This

Sounder, Made from a Buzzer]

An ordinary battery buzzer may readily be converted into a telegraph

sounder for use in practicing the Morse code. All that is necessary is

to connect the vibrator contact C of the buzzer to the binding post

that is not insulated from the frame. The other connections of the

key and battery are the same as in any ordinary telegraph or buzzer

circuit. In the diagram, C represents the vibrator contact; D, the

wire connecting the contact and the uninsulated binding post, and F,

the uninsulated binding post; E is the telegraph key, and B, the dry

cells.--Clarence F. Kramer, Lebanon, Ind.

Lawn Seats Built on Tree Stumps

[Illustration: These Practical Lawn Seats Show the Possibilities of

Stumps as Supports for This Purpose. The Conservation-Chair Design Is

Especially Interesting]

A practical use to which stumps, left from the felling of trees, are

put in a city park is as supports for lawn benches. This obviates

the need of grubbing them out, while the work of preparing them to

receive the seats is less than would be required to remove the stumps.

Of course, the location of the stump will determine whether it is

worth while as a support for a seat, or had better be grubbed out.

Many designs are possible, and the position and size of the stumps

available will suggest suitable construction. The woodwork for the

seats is simple, and the benches can be made removable for the winter

if desired.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.

A Hinged Box Cover Made without Hinges

[Illustration]

When a wooden box with a hinged cover is desired, especially a small

one, hinges are not always at hand, and are sometimes difficult

to obtain. Under these circumstances a good substitute is to make

the box as shown in the sketch, using the extension of one end and

nails, or screws, driven through the back corners of the lid, as a

hinge arrangement. This makes the use of hinges unnecessary, and is

serviceable even for permanent use. Where hinges projecting from the

surface of the box are objectionable, this method of construction is

especially desirable. It is best to make the hinged ends with the grain

vertical, and to round off the hinged corners of the lid slightly.--R.

J. Rohn, Chicago, Ill.

Automatic Flash Light Snaps Chicken-Coop Marauder

[Illustration: This Photographic Evidence Was Proof Positive as to the

Identity of the Thief in the Night]

After the wire fence around the chicken house had been torn up, and the

place entered 13 nights in two weeks, I decided on more preparedness.

Various ways and means failed, so I used a comparatively slight

knowledge of photography in the process.

I mounted my flash lamp on a piece of board, 1 by 4 by 8 in. long, and

fastened this to a base, as shown. I attached a weight to the lamp,

which was supported by a hinged drop, halfway down the upright board,

which in turn was supported by a nail, to which was attached a string.

The flash was set off by a slight pull of the string, which dropped

the weight. This contrivance I concealed in the chicken yard, and the

camera in the chicken house. That night I opened the lens of the camera

in the dark, and attached the string to a loose board in the fence. The

next morning, before daybreak, I closed the lens again. The flash had

been set off during the night. Also there were drops of blood on the

ground. I could hardly wait until the plate was developed. The result,

as reproduced, was hardly what I expected.--H. U. Scholz, Medford, Ore.

A Fishing-Tackle Outfit in a Shotgun Shell

At the camp or on the trail, an emergency fishing-tackle outfit is

almost as handy as matches, compass, and knife, and it may even be the

means of saving one’s life. A convenient way to carry such an outfit

is in two old shotgun shells, telescoped. The hooks, on a cork, and

the sinkers are fitted snugly into the shell. Several yards of line

are then wound on the outside. This outfit can be stowed into a pocket

handily, always ready for use.--E. Everett Buchanan, Jr., Elmira, N. Y.

A Split-Bamboo Lettering Pen

[Illustration: This Pen, Cut from a Piece of Bamboo and Fitted with a

Spring Fountain Device, Is Especially Useful for Marking Packages]

Marking of packages and similar lettering can be done neatly with a pen

made in a few minutes from split bamboo fitted with a short section

of watch spring. Select a piece of bamboo, ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₁₆ in. and about

7 in. long, and finish the end, as at A. Trim the end to an angle, as

at B, and then point it, as at C. Split the point carefully, as at D,

and smooth away the tufts at the edges. Cut a piece of watch spring the

width of the pen point and bind it into place, arched as shown. To use

the pen, insert ink into the arch of the spring, and it will work much

like a fountain pen.--Raymond H. Lufkin, Dorchester, Mass.

[Illustration]

How to Make a Houseboat

BY H. SIBLEY

The houseboat shown is of the scow design, 6 ft. wide by 20 ft. long,

with the cabin extending beyond the scow 1 ft. on each side. The scow

tapers up at the forward end and is protected with a heavy sheet-iron

plate so that the craft may be snubbed up on sandbars without danger of

springing a leak, even though a submerged log be struck while running

at full speed.

The power plant consists of a standard 4-hp. reversing gasoline engine

which drives the paddles at their most efficient speed, 45 revolutions

per minute through a 13-to-1 reduction. Cast-iron hubs, into which are

inserted cold-rolled steel spokes, and wood paddles bolted to their

ends constitute the propeller wheels. The cruising speed is about 4

miles an hour.

[Illustration: The Hull of the Houseboat is Built on the Scow Type so

That It can be Run in Shallow Water without Danger]

Two wide bunks, beneath which is locker space, provide sleeping

accommodations for a crew of four. In the kitchen the motor and gearing

are almost completely concealed under the work table. The cooking

is done on a two-burner blue-flame kerosene stove, and the sink is

provided with running water suitable for washing dishes, etc. This

water is drawn from a 30-gal. tank on the roof, which is filled by a

centrifugal pump driven from the engine shaft. A modern toilet room is

installed, and an ice chest on the after deck will hold supplies and

ice for a week’s cruise.

[Illustration: Detail of the Anchor Windlass and Engine Gearing; Also

the Deck Plan, Showing the Location of the Parts and the Arrangement of

the Cabins]

An acetylene-gas lighting system is installed and is used to light

both cabins and a searchlight. A heavy anchor of special design is

manipulated by a windlass on the forward deck. A similar device

controls the rudder. Life rafts, complete with paddles, are placed on

the roof, and in hot weather these are moved to one end and an awning

erected to make a cool sleeping place.

Wood Box with a Refuse-Catching Drawer

[Illustration: The Wood Receptacle Has a Drawer Bottom for Catching the

Dirt, Which can be Easily Cleaned]

The ordinary wood box may be greatly improved by adding a drawer at the

top and one at the bottom, as shown in the sketch. The upper drawer is

used for storing the flatirons and stove-polishing materials, and the

lower drawer is the bottom of the wood box. The dirt and pieces falling

from the wood remain in the drawer, which can be removed and cleaned

easily.--Contributed by William Jutila, Astoria, Ore.

Disappearing-Coin Trick

To make a quarter disappear from a glass of water after hearing it drop

is a very puzzling trick. The articles necessary to perform this trick

are a glass of water, a handkerchief, a quarter and a piece of clear

glass the exact size of a quarter. The glass can be cut and ground

round on an emery wheel, and the edge polished.

To perform the trick advance with the piece of glass hidden between the

second and third fingers of the left hand and holding the quarter in

plain sight between the thumb and first finger of the same hand and the

handkerchief in the right hand. Throw the handkerchief over the left

hand and gather up the glass piece in the fold of the cloth, allowing

the coin to drop into the palm of the left hand while covered. Remove

the left hand and hold out the piece of glass with the handkerchief

drawn tightly around it. Anyone can touch the cloth-covered glass,

but it cannot be distinguished from the quarter. While this is being

shown slip the quarter into a pocket. Spread the handkerchief over

the glass of water and allow the glass disk to drop. A distinct click

will be heard when it strikes the bottom. Raise the handkerchief

and nothing will be seen, as the glass will not be visible in the

water.--Contributed by Amon H. Carr, Gainesville, Tex.

Watering Window-Box Flowers

[Illustration: The Soil is Kept Moist by the Water Feeding through the

Sponges from the Under Side]

The window box for flowers can be conveniently watered in the following

manner: Construct a metal box to receive the box holding the soil and

bore enough holes in its bottom to admit water to the soil. The inside

box should be supported about 2 in. above the bottom of the metal box.

Sponges are placed in the bottom to coincide with the holes in the soil

box. A filling tube is made at the end. The water is poured into the

metal box and the sponges admit only enough water for the plants at all

times.

[Illustration]

How to Make Combined Kites

BY C. M. MILLER

PART I--A Dragon Kite

Dragon kites are made as hideous as the maker can possibly conceive,

and while the one to be considered is no beauty, it is more droll

than fierce-looking. In general appearance the dragon and centipede

kites are like huge caterpillars floating about in the air. The kite

sometimes twists and the balancer sticks appear to be large hairy

spines. Usually the tail end swings higher than the head. It is like

so many single kites, pulls hard, and requires a strong cord for the

line. The individual circular sections may number 20, and if placed

30 in. apart, would make a kite about 50 ft. in length, or the number

of sections may be more or less to make it longer or shorter. The

kite will fold up into a very small space, for carrying about or for

storage, but care should be taken in folding not to entangle the

harness.

[Illustration: In General Appearance the Dragon Kite Is Like a Huge

Caterpillar Floating About in the Air]

The Head

The head requires much more work than any of the other sections.

There are two principal rings to this section, as shown in Fig. 1.

The inner ring is the more important, the outer one being added for

the protection of the points when alighting. The construction of the

framework is shown in Fig. 2. It is made entirely of bamboo. The

bamboo is split into strips, about ³⁄₁₆ in. wide, for the ring A. As

the bamboo strips will be much too thick, they must be pared down to

less than ¹⁄₁₆ in. The diameter of the ring A is 12 in., and a strip

of bamboo to make this ring should be about 38 in. long, so that there

will be some end for making a lap joint. The ends of the strip are held

securely together by winding them with linen thread. The Chinese boys

use strips of rice paper, about ¹⁄₂ in. wide and torn lengthwise of the

paper. The rice-paper strips are made wet with paste before winding

them on the joint, and when they dry out the shrinkage will bind the

ends securely.

Two crosspieces, of the same weight as the ring stick, are placed 3¹⁄₂

in. apart, at equal distances from the center and parallel, as shown

at B and C. The ends of these pieces are turned at a sharp angle and

lashed to the inside surface of the ring A. To make these bends, heat

the bamboo over a candle flame until it will give under pressure, then

bend and it will stay in shape after it becomes cold. This method of

bending should be remembered, as it is useful in making all kinds of

kites. Two small rings, each 3¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, are put in between

the two parallel pieces, as shown at D and E. These are for the eyes of

the dragon. The rings are lashed to the two crosspieces B and C. As the

eyes revolve in the rings they should be made perfectly true. This can

be done by shaping the bamboo about a perfectly round cylinder, 3¹⁄₂

in. in diameter. To stiffen the whole framework, two pieces of bamboo,

¹⁄₁₆ in. thick, ¹⁄₈ in. wide, and 20 in. long, are lashed to the back

as shown by F and G. There is a space of 3 in. between the inner ring

A and the outer ring H, giving the latter a diameter of 18 in. It is

made of a bamboo strip, ¹⁄₈ in. wide, and should be less than ¹⁄₁₆ in.

thick. It may be necessary to make this large ring from two pieces

of bamboo, to get the length, and in such case be careful to make a

perfect ring with the ends well lashed together. Two short pieces are

lashed to the two rings, as shown at J and K. The supports for the

horns consist of two pieces, ¹⁄₈ in. wide and less than ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick,

and they are lashed to the upper crosspiece and to both rings, so that

the parts L and M are exactly halfway between the ends of the pieces F

and G and radiate out from the center of the ring A, the other parts, N

and O, pointing to the center of the eye rings, respectively. The ears

are unimportant and may be put on if desired. The rings on the horns

and the stick ends may be from ¹⁄₂ to 2 in. in diameter, cut from stiff

paper, but if larger, made of bamboo.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

The Kite-Head Section, Having Horns, Ears, and Revolving Eyes, Is Very

Hideous]

[Illustration: FIG. 2

The Framework for the Head Section is Made Entirely of Bamboo Strips

Lashed at the Joints]

Chinese rice paper is the best material for covering, and it should be

stretched tightly so that there will be no buckling or bagging places.

The only part covered is that inside of the inner ring A, the horns,

and the ears, leaving the eye rings open. The shades are put on with a

brush and water colors, leaving the face white, or it can be tinted in

brilliant colors. Leave the horns white and color the tongue red.

The Eyes

The frame for each eye is made of bamboo, pared down to ¹⁄₃₂ in. in

thickness and formed into a perfect ring, 3¹⁄₄ in. in diameter. Each

ring revolves on an axle made of wire passed through the bamboo exactly

on the diameter, as shown at P, Fig. 3. The wire should be long enough

to pass through the socket ring D or E, Fig. 2, also, and after the

eye ring is in place in the socket ring and the axle adjusted, the

latter is fastened to the eye ring with a strip of paper wrapped

tightly around the wire and pasted to the bamboo of the ring. A glass

bead, placed on the wire axle between the socket rings D or E and the

eye ring Q on each side, keeps them apart and the revolving one from

striking the other.

Each side of the eye ring is covered halfway with rice paper, as shown

in Fig. 4. The part R is on the upper front half, and that shown by S

is on the back lower half. Placing the two halves in this manner causes

an unequal pressure of the wind on the whole eyepiece, and thus causes

it to revolve on the axle. The front upper half of the eyepiece is made

black, and the smaller dark portion extending below the darkened half

is a round piece of paper placed just between the two halves so that

half of it will show on both front and back of the eyepiece. When the

eyepiece is given a half turn in its socket the back side will come to

the front and will appear just the same as the other side. Some kite

builders add pieces of mirror glass to the eyes, to reflect the light

and cause flashes as the eyes revolve in their sockets.

A Section Kite

The ring for the section kite is made the same size as the inner ring

of the head kite, or in this case 12 in. in diameter. The bamboo

for making this ring should be ¹⁄₈ in. wide and ¹⁄₁₆ in. thick. The

balancer stick, 36 in. long, is located about the same place as the

cross-stick F, as shown in Fig. 2, and must be made small, light and

well balanced. Small tufts of tissue paper, or feathers, are attached

to the tip ends of the balancer sticks, as shown in Fig. 5. The cover

for the section kite is put on tightly, the same as for the head, the

colors indicated in the sketch being only suggestions, as the builder

can color them as desired. The balancer on the last section should have

streamers, as shown in Fig. 6, for a finish. The streamers are made of

light cloth.

[Illustration: FIG. 3

FIG. 4

Two Bamboo Rings with Paper Coverings, to Make Them Turn in the Wind,

Constitute the Eyes]

[Illustration:

FIG. 6

FIG. 7

FIG. 8

FIG. 5

The Section Kites Have Balancers and the Disks are Given Bright Colors

So That They will Produce the Effect of a Great Dragon When in the Air,

the Head Piece Having a Ball Balancer Hanging from the Under Edge]

The Harness

As previously stated, 20, more or less, sections can be used, and the

number means so many separate kites which are joined together with

three long cords, spacing the sections 30 in. apart. The cords should

be as long as the kite from the head to the tail, allowing sufficient

extra length for the knots. As such a kite will make a hard pull, the

cord used should be a six-ply, hard-twisted seine twine. Start by tying

the three long cords to the head kite at the points T, U, and V, Fig.

2. Tie the next section at corresponding places just 30 in. from the

head kite. The construction will be much easier if the head kite is

fastened to a wall so that each cord may be drawn out to its proper

length. Continue the tying until all sections are attached just 30

in. apart. Other spacing can be used, but the distance selected must

be uniform throughout the length of the kite. The individual kites,

or sections, may vary in size, or they can all be 9 in. in diameter,

instead of 12 in., and the balancer sticks 30 in. long instead of 36

in., but a kite of uniform sections is much better and is easier to

make. The positions of the sections as they will appear in the kite are

shown in Fig. 7.

The Bridle

The Chinese bridle is usually made of three strings, which are attached

to the same points on the head kite as the harness cords, or at T,

U, and V. The lower string is longer than the two upper ones so that

the proper inclination will be presented to the breeze. As the head

is inclined, all the section kites will also be inclined. Some makers

prefer a balancer on the head kite, and in one instance such a balancer

was made in the shape of a ball. A ball made of bamboo strips is shown

in Fig. 8, and is attached as shown in Fig. 7.

Flying the Kite

It will be necessary to have a helper, and perhaps two, in starting the

kite up, as the harness might become entangled. Quite a little run will

be necessary, but when up the kite will make a steady flier and will

pull very hard. If the first attempt is unsuccessful, try readjustment

of the bridle or a little different position in the breeze, and see

that the balancers are not tangled. Quite a number of changes may be

worked out on these plans, but it is necessary to bear in mind that

the distances between sections must be equal and that the general

construction must be maintained.

A Movable Sunshade and Seat for Garden Workers

[Illustration: The Sunshade and Seat are Mounted on Wheels So That the

Device can be Easily Moved About]

Weeding gardens under a hot sun and in a necessarily uncomfortable

position is by no means a pleasant occupation, but much of the hardship

can be avoided if a combination movable sunshade and seat is made, as

shown in the illustration. The framework consists of two end pieces,

both made in the same way. Two ¹⁄₂-in. tees are required for each.

These are connected with a 5-ft. pipe, for the upright, and the

crosspiece that supports one end of the canvas consists of two pieces

of pipe, each about 1¹⁄₂ ft. long, screwed into the tee. The axle for

the wheels is also formed of two pieces of pipe, but these are only

about 1 ft. long.

Four suitable cart wheels should be provided, or solid circular disks

cut out of a board or plank, and drilled for a ³⁄₈-in. axle. Ordinary

³⁄₈-in. washers are placed on each side of the wheels, one serving as

a shoulder on the pipe end, and the other for the nut. The seat can be

made of a 1 by 8-in. board, about 6 ft. 9 in. long, notched at each end

to fit the pipe tees and prevented from shifting by means of U-bolts

around the axle on either side of the upright. After covering the top

with canvas, fastened at each end around the upper crosspiece, the

shaded movable seat is ready for service.--Contributed by W. E. Crane,

Cleveland, Ohio.

To Keep Grass and Weeds Out of Tennis Courts

Tennis courts are very apt to become covered with grass and weeds

unless considerable labor is expended on them. The best way to keep

a court free from this growth is to put on sheets of tar paper close

together when it is not in use. The paper should be cut in strips

the proper length, so that they can be rolled up and set aside until

the game is over, when they can be laid down again. After the court

has been covered a few times, the grass will die out and disappear

altogether. The use of salt, acids, and a number of other things,

together with hoeing, were tried out, but the paper covering was the

most successful of them all.--Contributed by W. D. Mills, Bakersfield,

Cal.

Buttonhole-Bouquet Holder to Keep Cut Flowers Fresh

[Illustration]

Being employed near a glass-blowing department I procured a small glass

tube and made a buttonhole-bouquet holder. One end of the tube I closed

and flared the other, then flattened the whole tube a bit. This tube,

inserted in the buttonhole with a few drops of water in it, will keep

cut flowers fresh for a whole day. If the upper end is flared just

right it will fit the buttonhole and will not be seen, as the tube is

hidden beneath the coat lapel.--Contributed by Frank Reid.

Cooler for a Developing Tray

[Illustration: Water-Jacketed Tray for Use in Cooling a Developing Tray

with a Flow of Water]

Regardless of the fact that tank development for photography is the

better method under most conditions, there are many who take special

delight in tray development, because they enjoy seeing the picture as

it develops on the plate or film.

There are many of this class of photographers both among amateurs and

professionals, and they universally experience much trouble in keeping

the solutions cool enough for good work in hot weather or a warm dark

room. Many schemes have been used, but there is none simpler than that

shown in the illustration. It is certainly better than letting the

developing tray float in the bathtub, a common practice among amateurs

who are compelled to use the bathroom as a dark room.

Any tinsmith can make a water-jacketed tray of zinc at a nominal price.

If one expects to use it for developing films by hand, it should be

made relatively deep, or at least shaped so that whatever method is

used in manipulating the film will be suited to the size and shape of

the tray. I had one made of zinc to accommodate an 8 by 10-in. plate

and providing about ¹⁄₄-in. space all around the sides and bottom of

the inner tray for the circulation of the water.

Two brass gas tips were soldered into the ends of the tray and a rubber

tube was attached to one of them, as shown. By connecting this tray

to the bathroom hydrant the developing solution can be kept as cool as

desired without slopping water where it is not wanted.--Contributed by

T. B. Lambert, Chicago, Ill.

Doorbell Push Button on Screen Door

[Illustration: Method of Connecting a Push Button for a Doorbell on a

Screen Door]

Push buttons are frequently put in hallways, or other places, not

accessible when the screen doors are hooked shut. By connecting an

extra button on the screen door with the regular doorbell line, the

service can be made to go on uninterrupted whether the screen be locked

or open.

To do this, one wire, carefully insulated, from the outside button is

laid under the upper molding strip of the screen, as shown, coming

out through the hinge and passing down to the battery line, being

concealed in any suitable manner, by molding or within the door frame.

The button circuit is completed by connecting it to the screen with a

short wire, the screen then acting as a conductor. If preferred, the

line may be run down under the screen-door molding, and out through

the bottom hinge same as with the other wire at the top. If the screen

is used as conductor, a piece of wire should be connected to it near

the bottom, and led through the hinge as before. In either case, after

leaving the hinge, the wire must be led and connected to the battery

line, to complete the circuit. It is then possible to operate the

bell either from outside of the screen door or at the regular place

within.--Contributed by E. M. Davis, Philadelphia, Pa.

Working Wood by the Application of Heat

It is often desirable to fit a piece of wood into a piece of metal by

means of cutting a thread in the metal and screwing the wood therein.

This can be accomplished by heating the metal to a little over the

boiling point of water and screwing the wood piece into the metal while

hot; or, if this is impractical on account of size, to heat the metal,

make a screw plate by cutting a thread in a small piece of metal, the

size and thread corresponding to the hole into which the wood piece

is to be inserted, and heating it to the required temperature, then

running the wood with some pressure through the thread. The wood then

can be screwed into the larger piece, where it will hold firmly.

The process of heating wood without the aid of steam can be used to

advantage in a number of ways; for instance, a hammer handle that is

crooked can be straightened by careful heating without burning; also

billiard cues, or almost anything of hard wood. It is surprising how

easily it is done and how permanent the repair will be. The Indians at

one time made their arrows from small hardwood twigs which were almost

always crooked to start with, but after being dried they were warmed

over a fire and straightened.

Another use for the application of heat is as follows: When it is

desired to place a screw in a fragile piece of wood that is likely to

split, if the screw is heated to a blue color and turned into the wood

while hot, there will be scarcely any danger of splitting. In this

case do not try to use oil or a lubricant of any kind, as the screw is

sure to set before it is in place.--Contributed by James H. Beebee,

Rochester, N. Y.

A Parlor Table

[Illustration: Detail of the Parlor Table, Together with Dimensions of

the Pieces]

The material required for the parlor table illustrated is as follows:

1 table top, 1 by 26 by 41 in.

1 bottom shelf, 1 by 15 by 35 in.

2 side rails, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 33 in.

2 end rails, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 21 in.

2 top cross braces, 1 by 4 by 19¹⁄₂ in.

4 feet, 1³⁄₄ by 4 by 4 in.

2 posts, 6 by 6 by 26 in.

2 side corner strips, 1 by 1 by 31¹⁄₂ in.

2 end corner strips, 1 by 1 by 17¹⁄₂ in.

The bottom shelf can be made of two pieces of 1-in. material, 8 in.

wide, carefully glued together, and reinforced on the under side with

two crosspieces, glued and screwed to it. The foot pieces are secured

to the bottom shelf so as to project 1 in. on the ends and sides. In

case a center support is deemed advisable, another foot piece can be

added, but unless the floor is very level, rocking may result. The

uprights, or posts, are made from solid 6 by 6-in. lumber, 26 in. long,

carefully squared at the ends, and tapered to 4 in. square at the upper

end. If desired, the posts can be made of boards, cut and fastened

together to form a hollow tapered post. In either case, they should be

set in about 4 in. from each side of the bottom shelf and fastened to

it by means of screws.

[Illustration: Design of a Table That will Appear Well in the Different

Oak Finishes as Well as in Mahogany]

The rail pieces for the table top should be cut and fitted with mitered

joints at the corner to form a rectangular frame, 21 by 33 in. This

is glued to the top and may be toenailed to it; but to provide a more

secure bracing, a 1-in. square strip of material is fastened all around

the inside edge of the rails, flush with their upper edge. The top is

screwed to this. In order to prevent tipping when the top is resting on

the 4 by 4-in. ends of the posts, two cross braces are provided. These

should be screwed to the outer-end sides of the posts, and beveled

off on their upper edges to fit the table top. They should be of such

length as to have a tight fit between the side rails, and are fastened

to these by means of finishing nails driven from the outside. Gluing

and toenailing can also be used to secure the top more firmly to the

braces; care should be taken that no nails cut through the table top.

After thoroughly sandpapering and smoothing off the table, it can be

finished to suit.--Contributed by H. J. Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.

Homemade Fuses for Battery Circuits

To carry out the general arrangement of the regular electrical

equipment of a large power plant, the battery circuit should have some

sort of a fuse block. An excellent way to make such a block is as

follows: Procure a piece of glass tubing, about 1 in. long, and make

a mounting for it with four pieces of sheet brass, as shown in the

sketch. The brass pieces are shaped and fastened to a wood base so that

their upper ends form a clamp to hold the glass tube.

[Illustration: The Fuse is Well Insulated and Protected against Fire

the Same as the Large Fuse]

A very thin piece of tinfoil, about 1¹⁄₂ in. long, is cut ¹⁄₈ in., or

less, in width, the size depending on the amount of current used. This

is placed in the glass tube and the ends are bent over the edge. A

piece of tinfoil is then wrapped around each end, over the ends of the

inclosed piece, and pasted to the tube.

The fuse thus made is pushed into the spring clamps of the block which

are connected in the circuit.--Contributed by Charles W. Meinberg,

Somerville, Mass.

Reproducing Flowers and Leaves in Colors

A very cheap, easy, and quick way to make reproductions of flowers,

leaves, insects, butterflies, etc., is the following: Purchase 1 oz. of

bichromate of potash and dissolve it in water. Spread this fluid over

the surface of the paper upon which the picture is to be made, using a

soft brush, and place it in a dark room to dry. When dry it will be a

light lemon color.

The leaf, or part to be reproduced, is placed upon the yellow side of

the paper and the whole exposed to the sunlight. The uncovered portions

will gradually turn brown, while the part covered by the object will

remain a lemon color. When the desired shade of brown is attained,

remove the paper from the sunlight, and the image of the object will be

on the paper.

Go over the outline with crayons or colors, and fill in the print

according to the natural colors. Very beautiful pictures may be made

in this way, and a butterfly made up in natural colors on a dark-brown

ground is very pretty. These prints, uncolored, will keep for some

time, if they are not exposed to a strong light.

Washing as ordinary photographic prints are treated will improve them a

little. If the instructions are followed, many beautiful objects can be

preserved in color.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.

Dishwasher and Drier

Where hot water is available the dishwasher illustrated is especially

suitable. It is easily constructed and inexpensive, the only real

expense being for the tank, which is 15 in. deep and 20 in. in

diameter. A washer of these dimensions will hold the dishes from a

table serving six to eight persons. The tank may be supported on legs

if desired.

[Illustration: The Hot Water from the Faucet is Forced over the Dishes

in a Fine Spray]

The supports for holding the dishes in a vertical position are made

of wire in a U-shape, the ends being fastened into two wood hoops that

snugly fit the inside of the tank, one near the bottom and the other

about 9 in. above the first one. The wires are set about 1¹⁄₂ in. apart

and radiate from the center like wire spokes in a wheel.

A funnel-shaped piece, having a hole 5 in. in diameter in the center,

is made of mesh wire and hung in place with several wires running to

the upper edge of the tank. Hooks are attached to the edge of the hole

on which cups and glasses are hung.

The cover consists of a wood disk, with a hole bored in its center for

a ¹⁄₂-in. pipe. The piece of pipe used should be 3 or 4 in. longer than

the depth of the tank. A long thread is cut on the lower end of the

pipe, and two rectangular holes are cut in the pipe end through the

threaded part. These holes are made by cutting through the pipe as if

making a slot for a key. Two large nuts are run on the threads of the

pipe. These nuts should be thick enough to cover the slot in the pipe.

A pipe cap is then screwed on the end of the pipe. The upper end of

the pipe is attached to a hose connected to the hot-water faucet. By

separating the two nuts just a little, a fine spray of water will be

forced out of the holes.

When the dishes are in place the spray of hot water can be directed

over them by moving the pipe up and down through the hole in the cover.

After the dishes are washed sufficiently the hose is removed and the

tank placed over a gas jet so that the heat will pass up through the

funnel-shaped attachment in the bottom of the tank. The dishes, already

heated by the hot water, soon dry in the heat from the gas jet. If

desired, the tank can be allowed to remain over the jet until the next

meal is ready to serve, using a very small flame.--Contributed by W. K.

Baxter, Massillon, O.

* * * * *

¶To empty a large sack filled with heavy material, turn or roll it

over a barrel.

How to Make Pop-Corn Cakes

[Illustration: The Pop Corn When Formed into Cakes About One Inch Thick

is Easily Handled]

It is very difficult to take a bite from a ball of pop corn, and it

becomes more difficult as the ball increases in size. As a large

number of balls were required for a church entertainment I decided to

make the pop corn into cakes. This was more easily accomplished than

first imagined with the use of a cake-forming device as shown in the

illustration. The body of the former was made of a baking-powder can

with the bottom removed. The cover of the can was nailed to the top of

an old table with its flange upward. A plunger of wood was made to fit

snugly inside of the can and a lever, about 3 ft. long, attached to it

and fulcrumed to the wall.

After the pop corn has been prepared with the sirup, it is placed in

the can and compressed. The can is then lifted out of the cover and

the pop-corn cake removed. This method offers a much better way to

serve pop corn than in balls. In making the cakes, the can, cover, and

plunger must be kept well covered with butter.--Contributed by Howard

A. Hopkins, Youngstown, New York.

Threading a Darning Needle

Having occasion to use a darning needle, the eye of which was too small

to insert the yarn in the usual manner, I tried the following method

with good results. A thread was doubled and passed through the eye, and

the loop thus formed was used to pull the yarn through.--Contributed by

Joe Henderson, Eldred, Ill.

A Fish Scaler

[Illustration: Bottle Caps Nailed to a Wood Block for Removing Scales

from a Fish]

All kinds of devices, both simple and complex, have been made and

patented for use in scaling fish, but for a novelty I found the

following, which necessity compelled me to improvise on an outing trip,

to be as efficient as any of them. As usual, the commissary, in making

up the outfit, neglected to take the curry comb to clean the fish,

and at the same time remembered to take a plentiful supply of bottled

goods. Long before it became necessary to scale any fish enough bottles

had been opened to provide the basis of a tool for the purpose, which

I constructed by using the small tin bottle caps, a few being nailed

on a block of wood, about 3 in. wide by 4 in. long, making a splendid

fish scaler, as good and efficient at home as in the camp, and both

inexpensive and easily made. The sketch shows the general appearance.--

Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago.

A Disappearing Towel

[Illustration: The Weight Draws the Towel into the Case Out of Sight

When Not in Use]

Nothing is more unsightly to a stranger entering a home than a dirty

towel in either the bathroom or the kitchenette. To keep the towel

out of sight I made a hanger as shown in the illustration. A wire

was bent into shape similar to a clothes hanger and a sliding clip

made to hold the towel in place. A cabinet was made to accommodate

the towel, and the hanger was attached to a cord run over a pulley

fastened at the top, through a weight pulley, and then tied to a screw

eye at the top. The weight draws the towel into the cabinet. Near

the bottom edge a slot was cut and a small panel fitted in it. This

small panel is fastened to the lower end of the towel. It is only

necessary to pull out the small panel to get at the towel. When through

with the towel, let loose of it and the weight will draw it into the

opening.--Contributed by Chas. C. Bradley, W. Toledo, O.

Ammonia-Carrying Case for Insect Bites

[Illustration]

An old clinical-thermometer case can be easily turned into a vial in

which to carry ammonia for insect bites. Fit a small rubber stopper in

the case, then push a darning needle into the stopper so that its end

will be a little more than midway in the case. Cut or break off the

needle end projecting on the outside and attach a small wad of cotton

to the inside end. The case is then filled with ammonia. For bee stings

this works fine, as the ammonia completely neutralizes the formic acid

which the bee deposits.--Contributed by E. Everett Buchanan, Elmira,

N. Y.

* * * * *

¶The contact points of a firm-joint caliper should never be struck on

hard surfaces to adjust them.

How to Make Combined Kites

BY C. M. MILLER

PART II--A Festooned Kite

More than one kite on the same framework is known as a compound kite.

The one illustrated consists of three tailless kites on one long

stick, called the spine. The upper one is 3 ft.; the center one, 2

ft., and the lower one, 1 ft. in width. There will be needed for the

construction of this kite a stick of light wood--spruce is best, but

it may be of pine or bass--7 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in. If the wood

breaks easily it will be better to increase the width from ¹⁄₂ in. to

³⁄₄ in., or the stick might be made ³⁄₈ in. thick without increasing

the width, but with a good spruce stick the dimensions first given

will be sufficient. The stick should be straight-grained and without

a twist. If the spine is twisted, the kites will not lie flat or in a

plane with each other, and if one is out of true, it will cause the

kite to be unsteady in the air. The bow sticks are three, the upper one

being 4 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in.; the center one, 2 ft. long by ¹⁄₄

by ³⁄₈ in., and the lower one, 1 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₄ in. About five

sheets of tissue paper will be required, but more may be needed for

color combinations. The so-called French tissue paper is much better,

as it comes in fine colors and is much stronger than the ordinary

tissue. It costs a trifle more, but it pays in making a beautiful kite.

The Chinese rice paper is the strongest, but it comes only in natural

colors.

[Illustration: The Spine with the Bow Sticks Properly Spaced as Shown

by the Dimensions]

[Illustration: The Kite as It Appears with the Festoons Hung to the

Ends of the Sticks]

It will be seen that the kites do not extend to the top and bottom of

the spine stick. The first bow stick is placed 13 in. from the top end

of the spine, and each of its ends extends 6 in. beyond the kite for

fastening the festoons. The bow sticks should be lashed to the spine,

not nailed. Wind diagonally around the two sticks, both left and right,

then wind between the two, around the other windings. This draws all

windings up tightly to prevent slipping.

To string up the upper kite, drill a small hole through the spine, 6

in. from the top, at A, and also 6 in. from each end of the bow stick,

at B and C. If a small drill is not available, notch the stick with a

knife or saw to hold the string. Another hole is made in the spine 29

in. from the upper bow stick, or at D. Tie the outline string at A,

then pass through the hole at C, then through D, up through B and back

to the starting point at A. In tying the last point, draw up the string

tightly, but not enough to spring the spine or bow. Measure carefully

to see if the distance AC is the same as AB, and if CD is equal to BD.

If they are not, shift the string until they are equal and wind at all

points, as shown at E, to prevent further slipping. Proceed in the same

way with the center and lower kite, and it will be ready for the cover.

The cover tissue should be cut about 1 in. larger all around than the

surface to be covered, but turn over about half of this allowance. This

will give plenty of looseness to the cover. For the fringe festoons,

cut strips of tissue paper, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, paste ¹⁄₂ in. of one long

edge over a string, and cut slits with scissors at intervals of 1

in. along the loose edge. After the fringe has been made, attach it

as shown in the illustration. Do not stretch it tightly, but give

sufficient looseness to make each length form a graceful curve and keep

the sides well balanced.

To bend the bows of the upper and center kites, attach a string from

end to end of each bow on the back side of the kite and spring in short

brace sticks in the manner usual for tailless kites.

Attach the upper end of the bridle at A. The length of the bridle

string is 87 in. and the kite line is attached to it 30 in. from A,

leaving the lower part from this point to F, where it is tied to the

spine, 57 in. long.

The kite should fly without a tail, but if it dodges too much, attach

extra streamers to the ends of the bow sticks of the lower kite, and to

the bottom of the spine.

If good combinations of colors are used a very beautiful kite will be

the result, and one that will fly well.

Simple Experiment in Electromagnetism

[Illustration: A Small Coil of Wire Mounted on a Cork Floating in

Dilute Sulphuric Acid]

The following simple experiment, which may be easily performed, will

serve to prove the theory that there is a magnetic field produced

about a conductor carrying a current, and that there is a definite

relation between the direction of the current in the conductor and the

direction, or polarity, of the magnetic field produced by the current.

The current in the experiment is to be produced by a battery consisting

of a small copper and zinc plate fastened to the under side of a large

flat cork, as shown in the sketch, the whole being placed in a glass or

rubber vessel partly filled with diluted sulphuric acid. A small coil

of wire is formed and mounted on top of the cork, and its terminals

are connected to the copper and zinc plates. The electromotive force

generated will cause a current to circulate through the coil from the

copper plate to the zinc plate. If the poles of a permanent magnet be

presented in turn to the same side of the coil it will be found that

there is a force of attraction between one pole of the permanent magnet

and the coil, and a force of repulsion between the other pole and the

coil. If the same operation be performed on the opposite side of the

coil, it will be found that the force between the poles of the magnet

and the coil are just the reverse of what they were in the first case;

that is, the pole that attracted the coil in the first case will now

repel it, and the one that repelled it, will now attract it. Applying

one of the fundamental laws of magnetism--like poles attract and unlike

repel each other--it can be readily seen that the two sides of the coil

are of opposite magnetic polarity.

If the direction of the current around the coil be changed, the action

between the coil and the magnet will be opposite to what it was

originally, and if the plates be placed in clean water, there will be

no current and no attraction or repulsion between the coil and the

poles of the magnet.

Double Lock for a Shed

[Illustration]

Four boys using the same shed as their workshop wished to lock it so

that any one of them could enter alone. Usually only two keys are

supplied with a lock, so two locks were purchased and applied to the

staples as shown. Each boy was provided with a key and could enter at

his pleasure.--Contributed by George Alfred Moore, Versailles, O.

Ferrules for Tool Handles

[Illustration]

Discarded metal caps from broken gas-mantle holders should be saved, as

they will come in handy for several purposes, such as ferrules on wood

handles, and the like. The wire screen is removed from the end, and the

cap is fastened to the handle with a nail or screw.--Contributed by

James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Mallet Made from Wagon-Wheel Felly and Spoke

[Illustration: A Well-Shaped Mallet Made from a Section of a

Wagon-Wheel Felly and Spoke]

When in need of a mallet and if an old broken and discarded wagon

wheel is at hand, one can be made quickly as follows: Cut through the

rim at A and B, and through the spoke at any distance desired, as at

C, for instance. The spoke is dressed into the shape of a handle and

sandpapered smooth. The section of the felly is used as head and is

shaped properly and fastened to the handle with two nails.--Contributed

by Mark Gluckman, Jersey City, New Jersey.

A Mystery Sounding Glass

Procure a thin, tapering drinking glass, a piece of thin, black thread,

about 2 ft. long, and a long lead pencil. Cut a small groove around the

pencil near one end. Make a slip noose in each end of the thread and

slip one into the notch and place the thin glass in the other with the

thread near the top. When the pencil is revolved slowly the thread will

be wound on it slightly and it will slip back with a jerk that produces

a ring in the glass. This may be kept up indefinitely. The movement

necessary is so small that it is imperceptible. The glass can be made

to answer questions by two rings for “yes” and one ring for “no.”

* * * * *

¶A lighted match held to the outside of a fish-pole joint causes an

expansion of the outer ferrule and allows the pole to be readily

pulled apart.

Repairing a Broken Canoe Paddle

[Illustration]

While paddling a rented canoe one day the paddle struck a rock and

snapped in two a little below the center of the handle. The boatman

laughed at the idea of trying to fix it, but after paying his price for

the paddle I decided to try mending it. The barrel of an old bicycle

pump was procured and I found that it fitted over the paddle at the

break a trifle loosely. It was pushed on the handle out of the way.

Then with a No. 8 bit I bored a hole 8 in. deep in the end of each

broken part. Into these holes, which formed one cavity when the broken

ends were brought together, was forced and glued a tight-fitting 16-in.

dowel pin. The outside of the handle was then wrapped with tape for

about 10 in. each side of the break, and the pump barrel was forced

down over this tape until it completely and firmly enveloped the broken

ends.--Contributed by Clarence G. Meyers, Waterloo, Iowa

Tightening Lever for Tennis Nets

[Illustration: The Upper Rope on a Tennis Net Held Taut with a Lever on

the Post]

Tennis nets are always sagging and to keep them at the proper height

requires considerable attention, especially so where the posts are not

solidly set in the ground. A very effective net tightener, and one that

is easy to make is the lever shown in the illustration. One end of a

piece of hardwood board is shaped into a handle the other end being

left large. In the latter a hole is cut to fit loosely over the post

for the net. The upper end of the post is notched and a sheave pulley

is placed in it so that the groove will be in line with the net. The

upper rope on the net is run over the pulley and is attached to the

lever handle. A downward pressure on the handle draws the rope taut and

locks it on the post. It is easily removed from the post and can be

left attached to the rope and rolled up in the net when not in use.

A Desk Watch Holder

[Illustration]

A watch holder for the desk is a great convenience for the busy worker,

and many calendar devices are sold for this purpose, yet they are no

more efficient than the one illustrated, which can be made from an

ordinary spindle desk file. If the wire is too long it can be cut off

and the bend made in it to form a hook for the watch ring.

Cleaning Silverware

To clean silverware or anything made of the precious metals, such as

jewelry, etc., is very simple with the following method: Place a piece

of zinc in a cup, dish, or any glazed ware; put in the articles to be

cleaned, and pour over them a hot solution of water and carbonate of

soda--washing soda--in proportions of one tablespoonful of soda to ¹⁄₂

gal. of water. This is a solution and method used by many jewelers for

cleaning pins, rings, chains, and many other small articles made in

gold and silver.

* * * * *

¶A machine should never be stopped in the midst of a fine cut.

[Illustration]

An Eight-Pointed Star Kite

BY CHARLES M. MILLER

Nearly every boy can make kites of the several common varieties without

special directions. For the boy who wants a kite that is not like

those every other boy makes, an eight-pointed star kite, decorated in

an original and interesting manner, in various colors, is well worth

while, even if it requires more careful work, and extra time. The star

kite shown in Fig. 1 is simple in construction, and if carefully made,

will fly to a great height. It is balanced by streamers instead of

the common type of kite tail. Any regular-shaped kite should be laid

out accurately, as otherwise the error appears very prominent, and

unbalances the poise of the kite.

The frame for this star kite is made of four sticks, joined, as

indicated in Fig. 5, with strings running from one corner to the second

corner beyond, as from A to C, from C to E, etc. A little notching of

each pair of sticks lessens the thickness of the sticks at the center

crossing, and strengthens the frame, The sticks are ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in.

by 4 ft. long, They are set at right angles to each other in pairs,

and lashed together with cord, and also held by a ³⁄₄-in. brad at the

center. The strings that form the sides of the squares, A to G, and B

to H, must be equal in length when tied. The points where the strings

forming the squares cross each other and the sticks are also tied.

The first cover, which is put on with paste, laying it out on a smooth

floor or table as usual in kite making, is plain light-colored paper.

The darker decorations are pasted onto this. The outside edges of

the cover are turned over the string outline, and pasted down. The

colors may be in many combinations, as red and white, purple and gold,

green and white, etc. Brilliant and contrasting colors are best. The

decoration may proceed from the center out, or the reverse. The outside

edge in the design shown has a 1¹⁄₂-in. black stripe. The figures are

black. The next octagonal black line binds the design together. The

points of the star are dark blue, with a gilt stripe on each. The

center design is done in black, dark blue, and gilt.

[Illustration: FIG. 2

FIG. 4

FIG. 3

FIG. 5

FIG. 1

The Boy Who Makes a Star Kite of This Type will Have a Construction

Different from the Common Run of Kites, Especially If He Decorates It

in an Attractive Manner]

The flags are tied on, and the tassels are easily made of cord. The

outside streamers are at least 6 ft. long, and balanced carefully.

Ribbons, or dark-colored lining cambric, are used for them. The

funnel-shaped ends balance the kite. They are shown in detail in Figs.

2, 3, and 4, and have 1-in. openings at the bottom, through which the

air passes, causing a pull that steadies the kite. They are of dark

blue, and the cloth fringe is of light blue. A thin reed, or fine wire,

is used for the hoop which stiffens the top. Heavy wrapping or cover

paper is used to cover the hoops. It is cut as shown in Fig. 4 and

rolled into shape.

A four-string bridle is fastened to the frame at I, J, K, and L, as

shown. The upper strings are each 18 in., and the lower ones 32 in.

long, to the point where they come together, and must be adjusted after

the kite line is fastened at M.

Second Handle on Hoe or Rake Saves Stooping

[Illustration: Much of the Tiring Labor in Using a Hoe or Rake is

Overcome by This Simple Homemade Attachment]

Anyone who has used a hoe or rake for days at a time will appreciate

the labor saved by the attachment for the handle shown in the

illustration. It is adjustable to various-sized persons by means of the

holes at the front end of the horizontal piece. The two parts are each

made of strips joined at the middle portions, and arranged to clamp

on the handle of the hoe or rake. In hoeing around shrubs and large

plants, the handle may be set to one side.--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg,

Ont., Canada.

Photo-Copying Lens Increases Angle of Camera

Trying to take some indoor pictures I found the angle of my ordinary

lens was insufficient to “get in” the various objects I desired. Not

having a wide angle lens, I decreased the focal length of the lens

by using a copying attachment. The results were quite pleasing and

while there is some distortion and less of the plate is covered than

usual, there is a remarkable increase in the angle of view. To obtain

definition, it is necessary to stop the lens down, but the pictures are

very clear.--Samuel L. Pickett, Denver, Colo.

Belt for Sprocket Drive Made of Brass Strips

[Illustration]

Being unable to purchase a small driving chain for sprockets made by

cutting out every other tooth in gears taken from a clockwork, I used a

brass strip, properly punched, and found it satisfactory. The strip was

.005 in. thick and the points where the holes were to be punched out

were indicated by dividers set from the gears. I made a punch from a

nail leaving a small center on it as shown and grinding the end to an

oblong shape. I used a piece of sheet lead as a die, on which to punch

the strips. The marks made by the dividers provided spots on which to

set the center of the punch, making the result quite accurate.--Edward

M. Davis, Philadelphia, Pa.

Rain Alarm with Drop-of-Water Contact

[Illustration: A Drop of Rain Water Completes the Bell Circuit, Thus

Giving Warning of the Rain]

An annunciating device, which awakens a person sleeping in a room

with the window open and warns him that it is raining, so that he may

close the window, is an interesting bit of electrical construction. On

the outside of the house, as detailed, is a funnel fixed to the wall.

At its small end, two separate wires have their terminals. The wires

enter the room at the frame of the window, and connect to an electric

bell, and a dry cell. A drop of water entering the funnel, flows down

to the small end, falling on the terminals of the wires, and acting as

a conductor, completes the circuit, ringing the bell. A switch inside

cuts out the circuit, stopping the bell’s ringing.--John M. Chabot,

Lauzon, Quebec, Can.

Coaster Steering Gear Made from Cream-Freezer Drive

[Illustration: A Steering Rig That Works Almost Like That on an

Automobile was Made Out of the Driving Parts of an Old Ice-Cream

Freezer]

In rebuilding a wagon into an automobile coaster, I used the driving

rod and gears from an old ice-cream freezer, and found that it worked

so well that perhaps other boys might be interested in the job. The

front of the coaster was covered with a hood, and the steering wheel

was set back of it, as shown. The center rod of the freezer was used

for the steering post F, and an old rubber-tired wheel was made into

a steering wheel. The casting from the top of the freezer, with the

gears in it, and the rod on which the turning crank was fastened were

set on a block, H, and braced, as shown. The shaft where the crank was

fastened, at B, was set through the wagon bed. A crosspiece of iron,

A, was wired to the axle D with wires C. A heavy block was used for a

turntable. The top end of the casting was fastened to the hood with

a brace, G, and the block H steadies the rigging also.--L. Chester

Bryant, El Dorado, Ark.

Pad for Glass Vessels Made of Corks

In the kitchen, shop, laboratory, and other places where glass or other

fragile dishes or vessels are used, a convenient pad on which to rest

them can be made by stringing corks on a strong cord or wire in the

form of a ring. Several rings of corks may be used to make a mat, or

rings slightly larger in diameter than the bottle or vessel may be

made for certain sizes of containers. If desired, the corks may be cut

to fit closely on the radial joints, making the resulting ring more

secure.

A Shaving Lamp and Mirror for the Camp

[Illustration]

To make shaving possible in camp at night, or with little daylight, a

small mirror was provided with an electric flash light. The mirror was

set to swing free, in a wooden support. The light was fastened slightly

above and behind the mirror. and swings at its base, so that it can be

tipped upward or downward, throwing the light correspondingly. A piece

of wood, 1¹⁄₄ by 3¹⁄₂ in., and as long as the mirror frame is wide,

serves as a base. The arms will hold the mirror far enough in front of

the lamp to allow room in which to swing. The body of the lamp is set

on a block, and held between two wooden pieces, into which a band of

iron was set near the top. The uprights move in an arc, pivoting at

their lower fastening, on screws.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.

Automatic Electric Light on Talking-Machine Cabinet

[Illustration]

In many homes the phonograph is placed where little light is available

in changing the records, setting the needle etc. An electric light

which is lighted only while the cover of the phonograph is raised, is

well worth installing. A metal arm, A, supports the open cover of the

cabinet. When the cover is closed, this arm passes through a slot and

takes the position shown by the dotted line. A strip of spring brass,

B, is fastened to the inside wall of the cabinet, in the path of the

arm, so that it will be pushed down to the off position, as indicated.

When the arm releases the strip B, the latter presses against the

contact C. A small electric lamp, D, is set in the corner, and

electrical connection made to it through B and C, the plug connections

passing through the back of the cabinet. When the cover is down, the

electric circuit is open, and the moment it is raised, connection is

made at C, and the lamp lights. The backs of most phonograph cabinets

may be removed easily to make these changes.--M. C. Ball, Kansas City,

Mo.

Device for Suspending Parcels from Overhead Hooks

[Illustration]

To hang small sacks or other articles out of reach overhead, so that

they may be easily taken down, I use a double-eye hook which I made of

wire. A single piece of wire is used, and twisted into two loops as

shown, and then formed into a twisted hook. I use a pole with a nail,

hooking it into the lower loop, to raise the parcel; this leaves the

upper loop free to be hooked on the nail above.--E. B. Warren, Garnet,

Mont.

Steel Wool as Aluminum-Ware Cleaner

It takes little trouble to keep aluminium pots and pans shining if they

are cleaned frequently with steel wool, water, and a nonalkaline soap.

Use a very fine grade of the wool, and give the utensils a few rubs

frequently rather than attempt to clean them only occasionally, when

much soiled.--L. P. Langan, Denver, Colo.

[Illustration]

How to Make a Model Old-Four Monoplane

BY RALPH M. BROWN

The old-four monoplane model, made famous by its wonderful flights,

is one of the most graceful that has been built. Its large size and

slow, even glide make it a much more desirable flier than the ordinary

dartlike model. It gives one a true insight into the phenomena of

heavier-than-air flight. This machine, when complete, should weigh 9

oz. and fly 1,200 ft., rising from the ground under its own power and

landing lightly. Its construction is simple, and with careful reference

to the sketches, an exact reproduction may be made.

For the motor bases, A, Fig. 1, secure two spruce sticks, each 48 in.

long, ³⁄₈ in. wide, and ¹⁄₄ in. thick, and fasten a wire hook on one

end of each stick with thread wound around after giving it a coat of

glue. These hooks are to hold one end of the rubber bands that act as

the motive power, and are designated by the letter B. At the opposite

ends of the sticks, at C, bearings are provided, which consist of

blocks of wood, each 1 in. long, 1 in. wide, and ³⁄₈ in. thick. These

are also bound in place with thread after gluing them. Holes are

drilled through the blocks lengthwise and then lined with bushings made

of brass tubing, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in inside diameter. The two motor bases A

are connected with four cross sticks, D, each 9 in. long and ³⁄₁₆ in.

square. These are bound and glued on the under side, one near each end

and the others equidistant each from the other and from the nearest end

stick. The front bumper E is made of round rattan, ¹⁄₈ in. in diameter.

[Illustration: The Mechanical Bird will Run About Five Feet on the

Ground and Then Rise and Fly]

The alighting gear is next in order of construction. This is made as

shown entirely of bamboo, ³⁄₁₆ in. square. The pieces marked F are 11

in. long; G, 9¹⁄₂ in. long, and the cross bar H, 11 in. long. At the

rear, the pieces J are 13 in. long; K, 4¹⁄₂ in. long, and the cross

piece L, 11 in. long. The distance between the points M and N, Fig. 2,

is 6 in., and between O and P, 9 in. The bamboo is easily curved by

wetting and holding it for an instant in the flame of a candle. It will

hold its shape just as soon as it becomes cold. The wheels are made of

tin, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, borrowed from a toy automobile. The axles

are made from wire, ¹⁄₁₆ in. in diameter.

The wing spars Q are made of spruce, ³⁄₁₆ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick.

Those for the front are 30 in. long, and for the rear, 36 in. long.

The ribs R are made of bamboo pieces, ¹⁄₁₆ in. square, 5 in. long for

the front plane, and 6 in. for the rear. These are bound and glued on

top of the spars, 3 in. apart. They are given a slight upward curve.

The round ends are made of ¹⁄₁₆-in. rattan.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

The Motor Base is Made of Two Spruce Sticks Joined Together with Four

Cross Sticks, Bound and Glued to the Under Side]

It is rather difficult to make good propellers, but with a little time

and patience they can be shaped and formed into good proportions.

Procure two clear, straight-grained blocks of white pine, 8 in. long,

1¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick. Draw a diagonal line on one block

from opposite corners, as shown at S, Fig. 3, then on the other block

T, draw the line in an opposite direction. Turn the blocks over and

draw opposite diagonals, as shown by the dotted lines. Draw a circle on

each side exactly in the center, ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter. Drill ¹⁄₁₆-in.

holes through the centers of the circles for the propeller shafts. The

wood is then cut down to the lines drawn, leaving only enough material

so that they will not break easily. The face of the blades should be

flat and the back rounded. Leave plenty of stock near the hub. After

the faces have been finished, the blades are shaped as shown at U. The

propellers should be finished with sandpaper to make them perfectly

smooth, as much of the success of the model will depend upon them.

It will be a good plan to shellac them, and also the frame and the

alighting gear. Aluminum paint costs but little, and it makes a fine

finish for a model aeroplane.

The propeller shafts V, Fig. 1, 2, and 4, are cut from bicycle spokes.

An eye for the rubber band is bent in the spoke, about 2 in. from the

threaded end. The end having the threads is run through the bearing

block C, Fig. 4, and the propeller fastened on with a small washer on

each side of it by means of two nuts, W, cut from a bicycle nipple.

These nuts may be turned up tightly with pliers.

The planes are covered with tissue paper put on tightly over the tops

of the ribs, using a flour paste. The planes are movably fixed on

the motor bases A by tying at the four points of contact with rubber

bands. This makes it possible to adjust the fore-and-aft balance of the

machine by changing the position of the planes.

The motive power, which is the most important part of the entire

machine, consists of rubber bands. There are three ways of obtaining

these bands. It is best, if possible, to purchase them from an

aeroplane supply house. In this case, procure about 100 ft. of ¹⁄₁₆-in.

square rubber, 50 ft. for each side. These are wound closely between

the hooks X. This rubber can be taken from a golf ball. It will require

about 40 strands of this rubber, which is removed by cutting into the

ball, on each propeller. Another way of obtaining the bands is to

purchase No. 19 rubber bands and loop them together, chain-fashion, to

make them long enough to reach between the hooks without stretching.

About 30 strands on each propeller will be sufficient. The hooks X are

made in the shape of the letter “S,” to provide a way for taking out

the rubber bands quickly. To prevent the hooks from cutting the rubber,

slip some ¹⁄₁₆-in. rubber tubing over them. The rubber bands, or motor,

when not in use, should be kept in a cool, dark place and powdered with

French chalk to prevent the parts from sticking together.

[Illustration: FIG. 2

The Alighting Gear is Made Entirely of Bamboo and Attached to the Under

Side of the Motor Frame]

With the model complete, flying is the next thing in order. With a

machine as large as this one, quite a field will be necessary to give

it a good flight. Test the plane by gliding it, that is, holding it

up by the propellers and bearing blocks on a level with your head and

throwing it forward on an even keel. Shift the planes forward or back

until it balances and comes to the ground lightly.

Winding up the propellers is accomplished by means of an eye inserted

in the chuck of an ordinary hand drill. While an assistant grasps the

propellers and motor bearings the rubber is unhooked from the front

of the machine and hooked into the eye in the drill. Stretch the

rubber out for about 10 ft., and as it is wound up, let it draw back

gradually. Wind up the propellers in opposite directions, turning them

from 400 to 800 revolutions. Be sure to wind both propellers the same

number of turns, as this will assure a straight flight.

[Illustration: FIG. 3

The Most Difficult Part of Making the Propellers can be Overcome with a

Little Patience]

Set the machine on the ground and release both propellers at once, and

at the same time push it forward. If everything is properly constructed

and well balanced, the mechanical bird will run about 5 ft. on the

ground and then rise to 15 or 20 ft. and fly from 800 to 1,200 ft.,

descending in a long glide and alighting gracefully.

[Illustration: FIG. 4

The Motive Power, Which Is the Most Important Part of the Machine,

Consists of Rubber Bands]

If the machine fails to rise, move the forward plane toward the front.

If it climbs up suddenly and hangs in the air and falls back on its

tail, move it toward the back.

After the novelty of overland flights has worn off, try flights over

the water. To do this the wheels must be removed and four pontoons put

in their place, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 2. The pontoons

are made over a light frame, constructed as shown in Fig. 5. The frame

pieces are bamboo, ¹⁄₈ in. square. Each one is 8 in. long, 4 in. wide,

and 2 in. deep. The covering consists of writing paper glued in place,

after which the whole surface is covered with melted paraffin to make

it water-tight.

[Illustration: FIG. 5

Framework for Constructing Pontoons by Covering Them with Writing Paper

Soaked in Paraffin]

No doubt various methods will be suggested by the time such flights are

made, such as smaller planes for racing, larger ones for altitude and

duration, etc. To make the machine carry weights, build a duplicate set

of planes and fasten them 6 in. above the others by means of struts,

³⁄₁₆ in. square, forming a tandem biplane, as shown by the dotted lines

in Fig. 2.

Patience is the one thing necessary in model budding. Sometimes a

machine carefully made will not fly, and no one can make it do so until

some seemingly unimportant alteration is made.

How to Make a Pair of Trammels

The making of these trammels is a very nice workshop problem for a

school, as it requires a very small amount of stock and a corresponding

degree of skill, and at the same time adds a little something to the

general shop equipment.

The brass is best procured in strips, which may be had in different

widths, except the bar, which is ¹⁄₄ in. thick and not less than ³⁄₄

in. wide. The steel for the points may be the ordinary steel, or if the

trammels are to be used on woodwork, very satisfactory points can be

made of heavy nails.

[Illustration: Trammel Points Made of a Nail and a Brass Strip to Fit

the Bar]

Cut two pieces of brass, 4¹⁄₄ in. long, and straighten them with a

wood or rawhide mallet on a surface plate. Draw center lines both ways

through each piece and lay out the openings for the bar with a sharp

scriber, and make a center-punch mark for the ¹⁄₈-in. hole that is to

be drilled at the intersection of the center lines. Mark the lines

where the piece is to be bent, and with a pair of dividers lay out the

ends and shape them with a file.

The center hole and bar openings are next drilled, and the latter

finished by filing. It is better to plane up a short piece of

hard wood, ¹⁄₄ by ¹³⁄₁₆ in., and use it as a gauge in filing the

rectangular openings than to try to make them by measurement. Polish

the brass pieces with a piece of fine emery cloth or paper, rubbing it

in straight lines lengthwise of the stock.

The bending is done by clamping the pieces in a vise and bending first

one side and then the other on the lines indicated. This will require

some care, as the upper ends should be 1¹⁄₄ in. apart on the inside

when the bending is complete. To insure the same angle on both sides, a

template of wood is used, and the pieces are carefully bent to fit it.

The holes for the points are reamed tapering from the inside, where

they are riveted in place. The points are filed to shape and polished,

which is best accomplished in a lathe. Clamp one of the points in an

upright position in a vise with the shouldered end up. Slip one of the

brass pieces in place and rivet by upsetting the projecting end with a

light hammer.--Contributed by J. A. Shelly, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Seeding Bare Spots on Lawns

[Illustration]

A lawn that shows patches of grass with bare spots, or only partly

covered with grass can be sown with seed that will fill the uncovered

places by using the tool illustrated. It is made of a block of wood,

1 in. thick, into which several large nails are driven so that their

ends project about 1¹⁄₂ in. Another block is fastened on top of the

nail heads to keep them from pushing out of their holes. A handle is

attached to the latter block.

The tool is used by driving it into the earth where there is no grass,

or in thin places, and the grass seed is sprinkled into the holes.

In raking over the lawn the young grass is not so apt to be torn out

and destroyed before it gets a good root.--Contributed by Edmund H.

Trabold, Orange, N. J.

A Porch Swing

[Illustration: A Porch Swing Having a Rail That Incloses the Person

Sitting in It]

The seat of the swing consists of a board, 30 in. long, 14 in. wide,

and 1 in. thick, with holes bored in each corner for the ropes. The

rail at the top is made of four oak pieces, two of them 30 in. long,

for the sides, and the other two 18 in. long, for the ends; all 3 in.

wide and ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. The ends of these pieces are finished rounding,

and holes are bored in them for the supporting ropes. The supports for

the rails consist of four pieces of ³⁄₄-in. pipe, 15 in. long. The

ropes are run through the holes in the ends of the rails, down through

the pipes and through the holes in the seat board, where they are

knotted.

A rope tied to a convenient post or screw hook makes a handy way to

give motion by pulling. To get into the swing, raise one of the side

rails on the rope.--Contributed by Ward M. Mills, Bakersfield, Cal.

* * * * *

¶Cover the top and side of ice in a refrigerator with a piece of

Canton flannel, and the ice will last longer.

Sheepshank Knot Used to Recover Rope

[Illustration: Only a Small Portion of the Rope will be Left on the

Projection]

The knot shown has a peculiar characteristic which enables a person

to recover the rope after letting himself down from some elevated

position. After the rope has been tied firmly to some support, as a

limb of a tree, tie this knot, or “sheepshank,” as high up as possible.

Close inspection will show that one of the three sections of the knot

holds no part of the weight below. This section is identified as the

portion which projects through the loops A and B at both ends. The

other sections project through at one end only. When the knot has been

arranged, slide down carefully to a position just below it and cut the

rope at C; then descend to the ground. By shaking the rope the knot

may be loosened, and only a short piece will be left attached to the

support.--Contributed by F. R. Gorton, Ypsilanti, Michigan.

Writing Two Colors on a Plain-Ribbon Typewriter

To write red, or any other color, on a one-color ribbon typewriter

place a long enough piece of red carbon paper, or the color desired,

between the ribbon and the paper. It will hold its place quite well,

does the work as well as a two-color ribbon used on expensive machines,

and does not cost very much.--Contributed by Leslie E. Turner, New York

City.

A Simple Card Deception

The effect of this trick is not new, but the method is a new one. A

card is selected by a spectator and noted, then returned to the pack,

which is shuffled by the one drawing the card. Despite the thorough

mixing the correct card is located by cutting the pack. The secret is

this: When the card is chosen, the chooser is allowed to remove it from

the pack. The performer then takes it and holds it up and asks the

audience to fix it in their minds. While doing this, allow the thumb

nail of the index finger to slightly graze the edge of the card. This

will not show, nor can it be detected by the holder, and he suspects

nothing of the kind. When returned to the deck and shuffled the pack is

evened up for cutting. A glance at the edges will show a small white

spot distinctly, as the scraped edge will contrast with the other

soiled cards. It is simple to cut the pack from this key.--Contributed

by John C. Moorehead, Minneapolis, Minn.

Catching Minnows for Bait

Instead of chasing the little fish up and down the stream to catch

enough for bait, try putting a clean bit of shell in a wide-mouth jar

and holding it in the water. The minnows will be attracted in great

numbers, and it is an easy matter to dip them up. A bit of shell can be

used also in a net. The white, shining shell seems to be a good lure

for the little fellows.--Contributed by Miriam Colchester, Amherst,

Can.

Grinding Writing and Lettering Pens

A fine or coarse writing or lettering pen can be produced quickly by

means of an oilstone. By rubbing it at the sides of the nibs, the

pen is made finer, and grinding across the ends makes it coarser. By

grasping the penholder in the normal writing position, and writing

lightly on the surface of the stone, the pen may be ground to the style

of the user, making it write more smoothly. If the pen scratches, a

slight touching up on the stone, which should be a fine hone, will

remedy the difficulty.

Pneumatic Door Check Made of Bicycle Pump

[Illustration: This Neat and Effective Door Check was Made of an Old

Bicycle Pump and a Strip of Iron, Shaped and Polished]

A door was provided with a heavy coiled spring that caused it to slam

shut, and in order to overcome this nuisance, a check was made from an

old bicycle pump. The fittings being worked out neatly, did not mar the

appearance of the woodwork. Band iron, ¹⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂ in., was used for

the fittings. A clamp, as detailed, was made to hold the end of the

pump cylinder. A bracket, 5¹⁄₂ in. long, of similar iron was fastened

to the door, as shown, with screws, and the clamp bolted to it. The

end of the plunger was extended and bent at a right angle, so as to

pivot in a small angle bracket attached to the trim, as shown in the

front view. An air-release hole was provided, as indicated, so that

the air was freed from the cylinder gradually as the door closed, thus

preventing slamming.--P. P. Avery, Garfield, New Jersey.

Convenient Tool Drawer under Chair Seat

[Illustration]

For the householder who does small repairing occasionally at home, a

sliding drawer under his working chair will be found a convenience. The

tools are always handy when he sits down to his work, and he can put

them away again without arising from the chair. This arrangement is

also useful in small shops where a chair or stool is used for tinkering

and light bench work.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

Red Windows in Daylight Photographic Workroom

Instead of the customary dark room, with the expense of red

incandescent lamps or the evil-smelling oil lamp, the photographer

who works during the day should have a red room, obtained by means of

a window with panes of red glass. The amateur can cover the windows

with red cloth, through which will penetrate a diffuse red light of

the desired quality. This is far superior to the common practice

of providing an opaque screen, blocking up the windows, etc., and

the screen can be made of red cloth instead of black cloth, just as

handily. Proper ventilation should, of course, be provided.--Alfred J.

Miller, Albuquerque, N. M.

A Model Paper Monoplane That can be Steered

[Illustration: 1

3 5 7

9

4 6

2 8

10

The Method of Folding the Paper is Indicated Clearly in the Diagram,

Which are to be Followed in the Order of Their Numbering, the Tail

being Inserted Separately]

An interesting bit of paper construction is a small monoplane made

from a 7-in. square of paper, folded as indicated in the diagram and

provided with a paper tail. This little monoplane can be steered by

adjusting the tail, and even made to loop the loop in the varying air

currents. For the boy who enjoys experimenting with such a model this

little construction offers much instruction and entertainment, and the

grown-up who still has an interest in such things will also find it a

worth-while job.

[Illustration: This Model Monoplane is Made of a Sheet of Paper, Seven

Inches Square, and can be Steered by Bending or Twisting the Tail]

To make this model, fold a square of medium-weight paper on the dotted

lines, as indicated in Fig. 1 in the diagram. Then unfold the sheet

and refold it as in Fig. 2. Then bring the folded corners A and B

into position, as shown at A and B in Fig. 3. Fold the corners C and

D upward to the position C and D in Fig. 4. Fold corners G and H

to the corresponding letters in Fig. 5. Fold points J and K to the

corresponding letters in Fig. 6. Raise the points J and K, Fig. 6, and

fold them in so that the corners which were below them in Fig. 6 now

come above them, as at L and M in Fig. 7. Fold the corner N back along

the line OP, Fig. 8, so that the shape of the main portion of the model

is as shown in Fig. 9, at OP. Make the tail 1¹⁄₂ by 14 in. long, as

shown in Fig. 10, and paste it into position. This completes the model,

which can be steered by bending or twisting the tail.--George H. Stipp.

Roll-Film Spools Useful in Economizing Pencils

Now that everyone should economize, short lead pencils should receive

attention. A convenient lengthener is easily made by removing the metal

ends from used film-camera spools, the 3¹⁄₄-in. length being the best

size to use. The pencil is cut to fit the unslotted end of the spindle

tightly. An eraser may be fitted in the slotted end. In a school quite

a saving was made by collecting the short pencils of the pupils and

having them thus fitted up in the workshop.--A. T. Moss, Napa, Calif.

How to Use the Lawn Mower

Difficulty in the operation of a lawn mower is often caused by failure

to use the machine properly. A lawn mower cuts like scissors except

that one of the members is fixed. The cutters pass over the cutting bar

at an angle and thus shear off the grass. The machine tends to throw

the grass off to one side, usually toward the left; hence the machine

should not be permitted to throw the cut grass back into the uncut

patch. This may be prevented by passing around the lawn so that the

uncut grass is at the right of the operator.--W. H. Kruse, Fort Wayne,

Ind.

Telegraph Recorder with Spool-and-Pencil Indicator

A simple substitute for the somewhat complicated telegraph recorders of

the inking type may be constructed of materials readily available to a

boy. The instrument shown in the sketch was made in a short time and

with no special outlay. The base and the upright support are of wood.

The armature A was made of a strip cut from a tin box, and folded to a

length of 4 in.

[Illustration: The Telegraph Recorder was Made of Materials That may be

Gathered Easily by Boys]

The recording device consists of a short piece of pencil, P, set in a

spool, S. The electromagnet M is fixed to the base, and the armature

A is actuated when current is permitted to pass through the magnet,

causing the recording pencil to move vertically. A strip of paper

is moved slowly under the pencil, and in order to make the record

regular a small channel-shaped guide of metal may be arranged under the

pencil.--William Warnecke, Jr., New York City.

Campers’ Bait Cache

[Illustration: Angleworms for Fishing Bait may be Kept Satisfactorily

in the Buried Box, Covered with Sod]

Campers desiring a sure supply of angleworms for fishing will find the

bait cache shown in the sketch convenient and practical. A box, about

18 in. long and 10 in. square on the end, is sunk into the ground in a

shady place, and all the bait dug by the campers on their arrival is

placed into it. The soil used to fill the box should be rich, black

loam, quite moist but not wet enough to be sticky. A few inches of the

top of the box is left unfilled and a double layer of green sod is

fitted over it, as shown in the sectional view at the right. The upper

sod is arranged level with the surface of the ground and should be cut

carefully so that it will not be observed by prowlers. If the region

where fishing is to be done is such that angleworms cannot be obtained

easily, it is best to dig them before starting for the camp. The bait

cache may then be made as a convenient place in which to keep the bait

in good condition for fishing.

* * * * *

¶After cleaning a shotgun, or a rifle, a cork large enough to be seen

readily should be placed in the end of the barrel to prevent rusting.

The cork should not be pressed into the end deeply as, if it is

forgotten and the firearm discharged without removing it, a dangerous

explosion may result.

A Sail-Rigged Wind Motor

BY E. R. HENDERSON

Ample power for driving light machines in a repair shop was obtained by

the use of a wind motor like that shown in the sketch and in the detail

drawings. The device has numerous other applications, particularly as a

substitute for wind motors that require a high tower, as in the driving

of a pump. As an interesting and inexpensive means of providing power

for a home or boy’s workshop, or as an experimental device, the motor

is also worth while making. The materials used are easily obtainable,

and the construction can be carried out with ordinary tools, for the

most part. The driving connections may be obtained from old machine

parts. The dimensions given are for a motor of considerable size, and

may, of course, be reduced proportionately for a lighter machine. If

the device is made by boys, the framework and other parts should be

made one-half as large as the sizes indicated. The wood used should

then be three-fourths as thick as that shown. The roof of the structure

upon which the device is mounted must be well braced and strong enough

to stand the strain. The sails are headed toward the wind, like those

on a sailboat, when the motor is at rest, by means of a control rod, F,

shown in the working drawing.

[Illustration: The Novel Wind Motor Developed Power for the Driving of

Machines in a Repair Shop, and can be Made in Various Sizes for Work or

Play Purposes]

The main structural portion is a vertical beam, or tower, tapered at

the ends and built up of 1 by 1-in. rods, strongly braced, especially

in the lower portion, as indicated. It is 14 ft. high, and built around

an 18-in. square board, A, notched at the corners to receive the posts.

A similar 14-in. square, B, is built into the lower portion. The lower

end of the tower is pivoted on the ridge of the roof on a hollow shaft

made from a section of iron pipe, D, and provided with a metal bearing

washer, E. The pipe D is split at its upper end, as shown in detail,

and fastened to the wooden plate B. The control rod F passes up through

the pipe D, and is fixed to the control wires, reaching the sails, by

means of a leather strap, from which an iron swivel, C, is suspended,

as shown in the detail at the left. The ends of the strap pass over

pulleys, fixed to the lower side of the plate A, and connect with

the sail-control wires. Spiral wire springs are attached to the wire

connected to each end of the strap, as shown only at the right sail

beam, and aid in controlling the sails. These springs are adjusted so

that when the control rod is drawn down to its lowest extent, the sails

will be with the edge “into the wind,” thus neutralizing each other,

and causing the sail beam to be at rest.

[Illustration: The Method of Construction is Shown in Detail: By Using

the Perspective Sketch in Connection with These Working Drawings, the

Arrangement of the Parts is Readily Understood]

The sail beam extends 9 ft. out from the center of the tower, and

is built up of three pieces. The center section extends through the

tower, above the plate A, and the brace beam, which crosses it at right

angles, as shown in the perspective sketch, and also at the detail

of the strap arrangement. The center section is of 1 by 4-in. stock,

and the end portions are of 1 by 2-in. stuff, fastened securely, as

shown at detail G. The sails are supported on masts, 1 in. square,

pivoted at their junctions with the sail beam, as shown at detail G,

and in guy-wire plates at their extreme ends, as shown at detail J. The

fastening and bracing of the gaffs at the mast ends is also shown at J.

The canvas sails are 4 by 4 ft., and mounted on the booms, gaffs, and

masts. The ends of the booms nearest the masts are weighted with lead,

as shown at detail G, and extend beyond the masts. The outer ends of

the booms are joined in pairs, and connect to the spring and strap

control. The guy wires N, of No. 18 wire, supporting the masts are

fixed to the ends of the sail beam and to the ends of the brace beam,

as shown in the sketch and the working drawing. The fastening at the

ends of the sail beam is made as shown at detail H, which also shows

one of the coil springs. All of the braces for the masts should be

fitted carefully, so as to have the proper tension without interfering

with the action of the sails, before the tower is set into its place.

The device should be tested on the ground, with the pivot shaft set in

a suitable support, before attempting to mount it on a roof, or other

structure. The support for the bearing should be fitted into the roof,

as shown. The power from the shaft is transmitted to the bevel gears,

and from them to the drive shaft and the belted pulley.

The main tower is supported on the roof by means of strong guy wires,

set over four built-up guy towers of 1 by 1-in. wood, and 12 ft. long,

as shown in detail L. The towers must be set so that the sail beam

has proper play and be secured firmly to the roof. The top of the

main tower is fixed to the guy wires by means of a guy plate shown in

detail K. A plan of the arrangement of the sail beam, brace beam, and

sail booms is shown at detail M. The sail beam is braced by No. 12 guy

wires, O, attached at the top of the main tower, at the junction of

the two sections of the beam, and similarly at the bottom of the main

tower. The fastenings of the wires and braces should be made carefully,

and they should be examined thoroughly both before and after the device

is mounted in place. Grease the pivoted and other moving parts, and

start the device slowly, bringing the sails into the wind as required

for the desired speed.

Lawn Benches Made from Old Bedsteads

[Illustration: Painted Green, These Rebuilt Bedsteads Served as Lawn

Benches]

Old bedsteads were converted into serviceable lawn, or porch, benches,

as shown in the photograph reproduced, by the addition of a suitable

seat, properly supported. The transformation was a simple one. Only

the foot and headpieces of the bedsteads were used. The front legs and

other pieces were made from other wood. The front legs are of square

stock, about 2¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ in. The crosspieces, supporting the wide

board seats, are mortised into the legs and fastened with glue and

screws. The seat is fastened from the under side by cleats. The lumber

was carefully planed and sandpapered so that the benches presented a

smooth finish when painted green, to match other outdoor furniture.--F.

E. Tuck, Nevada City, Calif.

Repairing Wood-Wind Instruments

Wood-wind instruments sometimes “leak” at the joints or keys and make

playing of the instrument difficult. Many such instruments are made

in sections, with ends that telescope to form a tight fit. This fit

is maintained by the use of a cork band cemented around the tenon end

of the telescoping joint. The renewal of these cork joints, and the

addition of new pads on the keys, will make an old instrument nearly

as good as it was when new, so far as playing is concerned, provided

the work is correctly done and the wood of the sections themselves

has not cracked. Many musicians have spare time and can do this work

themselves. The outlay for materials for the job is from 75 cents to

$1.00. A small alcohol, or even a kerosene, lamp and an old knife, or

old file, are required.

[Illustration: The Cork is Fitted Carefully into Place, and Glued]

All traces of the old cork on the joint can be removed with sandpaper,

leaving it as shown at the left. The cork comes in strips of about the

proper thickness, and wide and long enough to allow for trimming. The

ends of the strip should be beveled to make a ¹⁄₄-in. lap joint.