A small quantity of the cement is heated over the lamp and six drops

poured on the joint; then with the end of the file, which should be

heated also, it is spread to give an even, thin coating. The beveled

ends of the strip are similarly treated. By working quickly and

carefully, the coating on the joint and strip are brought to a plastic

state by holding in the flame, and the strip is quickly laid in place.

Before the cement has time to harden, press the cork in, forming a

neat joint. Bind a rag around the cork, leaving it until the cement is

thoroughly set.

The corked joint will be too large to go into the joining section of

the instrument. File and sandpaper it to a twisting fit. Though the

cork should be truly cylindrical, it may be tapered a trifle smaller at

the forward end. A coating of tallow applied to the joint will make it

easy-fitting, but air-tight and moisture-proof.

The pads are disks of felt incased in thin sheepskin. After long usage,

they become too hard to make an air-tight fit. Repadding should,

therefore, be anticipated. Shellac will give good results in putting

on pads. It is heated until liquid and poured into the key recess.

The new pad is pressed into the liquid shellac, care being taken to

have it well centered. For different keys, it will be necessary to use

varying quantities of shellac to make the pad sit higher or lower, as

required.--Donald A. Hampson, Middletown, N. Y.

* * * * *

¶A simple method of bracing a screen door is to stretch a stout wire

diagonally across the lower portion of it.

Rustic Trellis to Shade Door or Window

[Illustration: Rustic Trellises are Easily Constructed and When Covered

with Vines Add to the Attractiveness of the Home]

Proper preparation in the early spring will make it possible for the

householder to shade doors and windows from the hot summer’s sun by

means of inexpensive rustic trellises that add not a little to the

beauty of the home. A suggestion for a trellis at a doorway and one for

a window are shown in the illustration. They are made of straight tree

trunks and small limbs, having the bark on them. The curved portions of

the window trellis may be made easily by using twigs that are somewhat

green. Morning-glories, or other suitable climbing plants, may be

trained over the trellises.--J. G. Allshouse, Avonmore, Pa.

Making Scale Enlargements with a Rubber Band

For reducing or enlarging maps, and similar drawings of irregular

design, the device shown in the illustration will replace the ordinary

instruments, and enable the draftsman to turn out a given amount of

work in much less time than required when proportional dividers are

used. The materials needed are an eraser, a rubber band, two pins,

two thumb tacks, and a few drops of rubber cement. From the eraser

two pieces are cut, as shown in the sketch, about ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₄

in. Cut deep slits in each end of these pieces. Insert the end of the

rubber band, cut at the splice, in one of these slits and place a thumb

tack in the other. A pin is thrust through the eraser and trimmed

close, to prevent the thumb tack from tearing the eraser. Cement the

slits with rubber cement, and place the assembled device under a book

weight, until the cement has set.

[Illustration: This Simple Device Is Useful in Enlarging or Reducing

Drawings and Maps]

Assuming that a contour map is to be enlarged, the rectangular

divisions of the original map, ordinarily section lines or the

boundaries of quarter sections, are drawn on the larger sheet as a

base for the reproduction. Place the device on the original map, as

indicated, the edge of the rubber band touching a “horizontal” section

line between two “vertical” ones, the rubber band under slight tension.

On the black surface of the band, dot white points, with water color,

along the section line at which the contour lines intersect it. Also

place a dot at each end of the band to indicate the position of the two

“vertical” section lines between which the band is set.

Transfer the device to the same relative position on the enlargement,

stretching the rubber band. Make dots at each end, denoting the

“vertical” section lines, for the corresponding lines on the

enlargement. The series of intermediate points along the band will be

in the same relative position on the enlargement as they were on the

original. They can be connected on the enlargement with as accurate

a result as obtained by the use of proportional dividers, and more

rapidly.

After the points are indicated upon the enlargement, the reproducing

device is removed and the surface of the rubber band cleaned instantly

by touching it with a moist cloth. The exposed part of the rubber band

is a variable, and the device can be made with this dimension adapted

to the work. It is capable of enlarging or reducing at a ratio not

greater than six to one, above which the rubber band approaches its

elastic limit.--H. L. Wiley, Seattle, Wash.

Signal Telegraph with Green and Red Lights

[Illustration]

By arranging a circuit with batteries, lights, and keys, as shown in

the diagram, a signal telegraph may be made that will afford much

pleasure to boys and may be used for practical purposes. The keys A and

B are wired into the circuit with a battery C and a red and a green

incandescent lamp. A simple set of signals may be devised easily so

that messages may be sent in the code.--James R. Townsend, Itasca,

Texas.

A Circular Swing

BY DAVIS FOSS GETCHELL

While on the farm I constructed a circular swing which proved very

attractive to my boys and their friends. By its side, and suspended

from the same tree branch, was an ordinary swing. During the eight

weeks of our stay the latter was seldom in use. The circular swing was

a far greater favorite with all the young people, boys and girls alike.

Around a branch of a large elm and 18 or 20 ft. from the tree trunk

was looped a 10-ft. length of chain and to the hanging end of this was

made fast a 1-in. rope nearly 10 ft. longer than was needed to reach

the ground. Directly beneath the point where the chain went around the

limb, as determined by a plumb bob, was set a 6-in. piece of cedar post

3¹⁄₂ ft. into the ground. This was sawed off square 2¹⁄₂ ft. above the

ground. Into the top of this post was set a ¹⁄₂-in. rod, to serve as

a pivot for the swing. It was set in firmly about 6 in. and projected

about 3 in. from the top of the post.

[Illustration: The Circular Swing will be Found Very Safe and

Pleasurable, but, as is the Case of an Ordinary Swing, Anyone Careless

Enough to Get in the Way of It will Get Badly Bumped]

A straight-grained piece of pine board, 15 ft. long, 8 in. wide, and

1 in. thick, was procured and a hole bored in one end large enough to

make it turn freely on the pin in the upper end of the post. Two holes

were bored in the other end of the board large enough to admit the

rope. The first hole was 6 in. from the end, and the second hole, 3 ft.

The hanging end of the rope was passed down through one of these holes

and back up through the other and then made fast to itself about 3 ft.

above the board after the board had been adjusted so that it would

swing throughout its length at the height of the post, or 2¹⁄₂ ft. from

the ground. The swing was then complete except for a swivel, which was

put in the rope within easy reach of one standing on the board, so that

it could be oiled.

One good push would send the board with a boy on the end three or four

times about the 90-ft. circle. The little fellows would like to get

hold of the board in near the post and shove it around. Once started,

it could be kept going with very little effort.

In putting up such a swing, make sure to have the post set solidly

in the ground, as it has a tendency to work loose. Tie all the knots

tightly. Do not look upon the swivel as unnecessary. The first swing I

put up was without one, and the rope twisted off in a few days.

It is not necessary to climb a tree; just throw a stout cord over the

limb by means of a stone or nut tied to the end, then haul the rope

and chain up over the limb with the cord. Before the chain leaves the

ground loop the end of it and pass the cord through the loop. The

higher the limb from the ground the better the swing will work, but 25

ft. will be about right.

Hand-Operated Motorboat Whistle

[Illustration: Bellows Operated by Hand for Blowing a Whistle on a

Power Boat]

Anyone with a power boat can construct a blower for the whistle

very cheaply. The whistle is attached to a suitable length of pipe,

threaded on each end. The blower is made of two white-pine boards, 1

in. thick, cut as shown at A; a thin piece of leather is cut like the

pattern B, to form the bellows part, and after it is shaped, the edges

of the boards are glued and the leather placed in position, where it

is fastened with tacks driven in about 1 in. apart. The bellows are

fastened to the under side of a seat with screws, and a tension spring

is attached to the bottom of the bellows and the floor of the boat. A

cord is fastened to the lower board of the bellows and run up through

to the cabin roof over suitable pulleys to a handle within convenient

reach of the operator.--Contributed by John I. Somers, Pleasantville,

N. J.

Filling In Broken Places on Enamel

Ordinary putty will not do to fill in cracks or broken spots on an

enameled surface, such as a clockface. Fine sealing wax is much better,

as it hardens at once, takes color without absorbing the oil, and

does not shrink like putty. Use a wax of the proper color to match

the surface as closely as possible. Fit it in and smooth with a warm,

flexible piece of metal, such as a palette knife. Give it one or two

coats of thin color to exactly match the other surface, and varnish. If

the article has not a high polish, the gloss of the varnish can be cut

a little with pumice stone.

[Illustration: A Twisting Thriller Merry-Go-Round

BY R. E. EDWARDS]

“Step right up; three twisting thrillers for a penny--a tenth of a

dime!” was the familiar invitation which attracted customers to the

delights of a homemade merry-go-round of novel design. The patrons were

not disappointed, but came back for more. The power for the whirling

thriller is produced by the heavy, twisted rope, suspended from the

limb of a tree, or other suitable support. The rope is cranked up by

means of the notched disk A, grasped at the handle B, the car being

lifted off. The thriller is stopped when the brakeplate I rests on the

weighted box L.

[Illustration: The Supporting Ropes are Wound Up at the Disk A, the

Car is Hooked into Place, and the Passengers Take Their Seats for a

Thrilling Ride, Until the Brakeplate I Rests on the Box]

Manila rope, ³⁄₄ in. or more in diameter, is used for the support, and

is rigged with a spreader, about 2 ft. long, at the top, as shown. The

disk is built up of wood, as detailed, and notches, C, provided for the

ropes. The rope is wound up and the car is suspended from it by the

hook, which should be strong, and deep enough so that it cannot slip

out, as indicated at H.

The car is made of a section of 2 by 4-in stuff, D, 10 ft. long, to

which braces, E, of 1 by 4-in. stuff are fastened with nails or screws.

The upper ends of the pieces E are blocked up with the centerpiece F,

nailed securely, and the wire link G is fastened through the joint.

The seats J are suspended at the ends of the 2 by 4-in. bar, with their

inner ends lower, as shown, to give a better seating when the thriller

is in action. The seats are supported by rope or strap-iron brackets,

K, set 15 in. apart. The box should be high enough so that the seats do

not strike the ground.

Kinks for the Talking Machine

When short of fiber needles or when the jewel needle has broken, file

down the tooth of a bone comb to the required point, and it will serve

well. If the needle arm becomes loosened from the diaphragm, and no

wax is handy, a bit of soft chewing gum makes an excellent temporary

repair. Use a magnet to pick up steel needles from the receptacles on

the machine, to save time and avoid punctured fingers. If the machine

is too loud for the room, placing a piece of loose cotton in the tone

arm, directly behind the reproducer, is more effective than muffling

the sound at the horn end.--L. B. Robbins, Attleboro, Mass.

A Wire-Walking Toy

[Illustration: Adapted to Window Displays, This Amusing Toy Has an

Advertising Value]

A daring wire-walking performer who, unmindful of the fact that a

misstep may mean destruction, keeps on going, back and forth, so long

as the motor runs, or the crank is turned, is a toy that boys can make

easily. The wire is stretched, not across Broadway, but between two 1

by 1-in. standards, held upright by guy cords, or fixed to a baseboard.

They are fitted with forked tops, at A and B, and pulley wheels, C

and D. A wire, F, is fastened to two of the prongs, at E, and a black

thread, G, runs over the pulley wheels. A carriage, I, is formed from

a 12-in. length of stiff wire, and weighted, at L, to balance upon the

tight wire. The figure K is cut from stiff paper, and made to turn upon

the carriage upright J, and braced with thread, at H. Thus the figure

is always drawn forward, revolving on the support J at the end of each

trip. Power to turn the thread is transmitted from a hand crank or

motor, M, by means of the double pulley wheel at D.--Edward R. Smith,

Walla Walla, Washington.

Double Roofs Provide Ideal Shade for Poultry Coops

Having no native shade in our city chicken yard, we noticed one summer

that the hens, especially those in the low brooder coops, became droopy

and exhausted from the excessive heat. We studied the construction of

the U. S. Weather Bureau thermometer shelter, which usually stands out

in the sun, and is no larger than our brooder coops. It has a double

roof with free air-circulation space between the roofs, hence the

inclosed thermometers are exposed to a true-shade temperature. We then

placed an extra roof on each of the brooder coops, leaving a 6-in. open

air space between, the top roof being supported at the corners only.

The arrangement proved so effective that the hens sought the coops,

against the heat of unventilated inclosures on quiet, hot days.--J.

Cecil Alter, Cheyenne, Wyo.

An Illuminated Indicating Target Box

[Illustration: The Location of Hits is Recorded by a Beam of Light

Streaming through the Hole Shot in the Paper Target]

The joys of target practice are often hampered by the delays in the

settlement of hits. It takes time and is annoying to be constantly

advancing to the target to examine it. To do away with this, an

illuminated target was constructed that enables the shooter to locate

every hit without leaving his post. To make the device, a square

wooden box of convenient size is obtained. In one side of this, cut a

round hole as large as the largest ring on the targets used. The side

opposite this is fitted with a piece of sheet iron to stop the bullets.

Paint this iron and the interior white. Inside the box, arrange four

electric lights so their rays will be thrown on the hole, as shown.

Candles may be used, if necessary. The lamps must be out of range of

the bullets, that hit the target, and protected by an iron plate. The

targets, painted on thin paper, are fastened over the front of the

hole, and the lights are on, while shooting. Each shot punctures the

paper, and the light streaming through the hole will show the location

of the hit.--Thomas W. Benson, Philadelphia, Pa.

Kinks in Washing Photographic Negatives and Prints

Photographic defects, spots, stains, etc., are often due to inadequate

washing. In the common method of washing negatives or prints under

the tap, in a dish, the water is not changed quickly enough. If the

negatives are placed film downward and supported at the edges, the

washing is quicker and more thorough. Films as well as glass negatives

are in the same class in the matter of washing. Films should not stick

together, and the sharp edges must not be permitted to cause scratches.

Bird House Made of an Old Straw Hat

[Illustration]

A bird house of an old straw hat is a practical and easily contrived

affair. Cut a hole in the crown of the hat. Then nail the hat against a

board of proper size. To protect the hat against the rain, put a roof

over it, as shown. A perch is also provided. Such a bird house can be

hung against the trunk of a tree, or nailed against a wall. Leaving the

hat in its natural straw color, and painting the rest a dark brown,

produces a satisfactory effect.--C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.

Camp Shelter Affords Protection from Mosquitoes

[Illustration: Lithe Branches Cut in the Woods are Used for the

Framework, Which is Covered with Mosquito Netting]

When it is undesirable to stay in a camping tent, on warm nights or

during the day when a siesta is taken, a mosquito shelter can be made

of materials readily available at most camping places. The arrangement,

as shown, is made as follows: Procure a number of pliable switches,

about ³⁄₄ in. in diameter, and 8 or 10 ft. long, willow or similar

growths. Sharpen the butts, and force them into the ground in two

rows, 3¹⁄₂ ft. apart. Bend the tops together, and tie them in arches

of the same height, as indicated. Next, tie a ridge binder the entire

length. Cover the frame with mosquito netting, providing an entrance at

one end. The shelter shown is for one person, but may easily be made

larger. The fly, supported on a rope between posts or trees, affords

shade.--J. T. Trammell, Milwaukee, Wis.

* * * * *

¶The annoyance of a chair rocking on a bare floor, especially a

child’s rocking chair, may be overcome by tacking sections of garden

hose along the curved rockers. If properly done this also adds to the

comfort of the chair.

Rustic Well for a Bazaar or Fair Booth

A feature of a bazaar which attracted much attention was a rustic well

from which a pretty girl dipped cool drinks with the aid of an “old

oaken bucket.” The arrangement may also be used at an outdoor fair or

lawn party.

[Illustration: A Pretty Country Maid, Delicious Lemonade, a Peep into

the Well, and Music from a Phonograph Were Attractions at This Booth]

A corner of the room was marked off by a rail fence and turnstile. The

floor was covered with green cloth and green excelsior, for grass. The

well was constructed as shown in the detail sketch. Half of a barrel,

B, with the head removed, was inverted, and a mirror, C, was set in a

shallow pan of water on the floor. The pan was surrounded with pebbles,

D, and a framework, E, built over the barrel. The supply of lemonade

was kept cool in the tub G, behind the partition. When the bucket A was

lowered into the well, by means of the sweep, it was filled by pouring

the beverage in the trough F. The bucket was then raised and the drinks

served from it, a cocoanut-shell dipper being used.

So many persons became curious to learn how the well was constructed,

that an admission fee was charged to pass the turnstile, and the

reward was a peep at the reflection in the mirror at the bottom of the

well.--Susan E. W. Jocelyn, New Haven, Conn.

Novel Masks for Printing Pictures

In printing pictures, I have made use of various masks, and those

suited to the particular picture, for some special reason, have proved

especially popular. For instance, in making a picture for a contractor

and mason, a mask in the shape of a trowel was used; for a policeman, a

star; an automobile for the motorist. Sometimes the special interests

of persons in a picture, or the background, will suggest good outlines

for masks.--Russell Waldo, Indianapolis, Ind.

Sheet-Metal Stand for Flatiron

[Illustration]

Considerable energy is consumed in lifting a heavy flatiron to the

stand which protects the ironing board. The device shown in the

illustration was made to overcome this objection to most flatiron

stands and proved efficient as well as easy to make. The iron is shoved

onto the stand at one end, provided with an incline. The layout for the

sheet metal is shown in detail. The piece A is cut 4¹⁄₂ by 9 in., and

the stop B, the incline C, and the leg D, are cut as shown, and bent to

shape The stand is fastened near the end of the ironing board by means

of screws.--Ernest Ward, Detroit, Mich.

[Illustration]

Water-Coasting Toboggan and Slide

BY D. J. HOUGH

Coasting down an incline and being projected through the air to plunge

into the warm water of a summer lake, or other outdoor bathing spot,

has thrills and excitement that appeal to the person seeking a new

aquatic diversion. The illustration shows a slide, and the toboggan

sled for use on it, that were built by a group of young men at a summer

resort. While the slide shown is perhaps more extensive than most boys

would care to undertake, the principle involved may be adapted easily

to others one-fourth as long, less than 20 ft. The slide shown was

strongly built of 2 by 4-in. material for the framework, 2 by 6-in.

planks for the slide guides, and 2 by 12-in. planks for the bearing for

the roller. Lighter material may be used for the guides and the roller

bearing on a smaller slide, but the framework should be of 2 by 4-in.

stock.

[Illustration: Thrills and Excitement That will Satisfy the Swimming

Enthusiast and Provide a New Summer Diversion at the Lake or River

may be Had from the Water Toboggan and Slide. It may be Adapted to a

Smaller Size and Built by Boys. The Details of the Toboggan and the

Construction of the Slide are Shown in the Sketches Above]

The high end of the slide illustrated is about 7 ft. from the ground,

but a proportionately greater incline is provided because the beach

slopes gradually to the water’s edge. It is reached by a ladder fixed

to a tree, which acts as an end brace for the slide. If no such natural

support is available, the end of the slide must be strongly braced on

three sides, to insure safety. It is inadvisable to build the slide

unduly high to provide the necessary incline since this may result in

accidents. A location where the ground is suitable should be selected

rather than assume danger or risk.

The end of the slide nearest the water may be given a slight upward

turn, so that when the toboggan leaves it the rider is carried upward

before striking the water. The hold on the toboggan should be retained

when entering the water, as injury may result by failure to clear it in

the plunge. With experience a dive may be made as the toboggan leaves

the slide.

The construction of the slide is shown in detail in the lower sketch.

The framework of 2 by 4-in. material should be only slightly wider than

the guides, and the supports should be spread toward the ground to give

rigidity. The supports A should be nailed firmly, or bolted, to the

horizontal members B. If lighter stock is used, the pieces at B should

be nailed in pairs, one on each side of the uprights. The guides C and

D should be of smooth lumber, and the edges of these pieces, as well

as of the bearing plank E, should be rounded off to remove splinters.

The joints in the sections of the guides should be made carefully and

placed over the framework supports. They should be reinforced from the

lower side by plates of wood.

The bearing plank E is of 2-in. stock and 12 in. wide. It may be

made of lighter material in a smaller slide. The joints in it should

likewise be made carefully, to insure smooth riding over them. They

should be set directly over the framework supports, but not on those

over which joints have been made in the guides. The plank forming the

bearing for the roller should not extend to the end of the slide at

the lower end, but should be set back about 18 in. This permits the

toboggan to slide off smoothly rather than to spring directly into the

air from the bearing on the rollers. The bearing plank may be nailed

into place, but care must be taken to set all nails below the surface.

A better construction is to use screws or bolts. Bore holes for them

through the plank, countersinking their heads.

The toboggan, as shown in the detail sketches, is built strongly,

and is to be fitted over the 12-in. bearing plank, allowing ¹⁄₄-in.

play on each side. The sides are of 1¹⁄₄-in. stock and high enough to

accommodate the rollers, which should be about 3 in. in diameter. The

dimensions of 15 in. in width and 30 in. in length, on the top surface,

are suggestive only, and will vary with the materials used. The

toboggan will not stand the necessarily hard wear unless good-quality

oak, or other hard wood, is used. The top and foot brace should be

fixed strongly with screws, their heads countersunk.

The rollers are fixed in the sides by means of screws, or a bolt may be

set through the length of the roller. In either case the bearing should

be in holes bored through the sidepieces. Washers should be fitted at

the sides of the bearings, and the latter must be kept greased. All the

edges and corners of the toboggan should be rounded off so that there

is little possibility of injury from slivers or contact with the edges.

Tile Trap for Rabbits

[Illustration: By Closing the Smaller Opening, the Rabbit may be

Trapped and Removed at the Cover]

Rabbits may be trapped in order to rid grounds of them, or for food

purposes, by the use of the tile trap shown in the illustration. A tee,

having a smaller opening of 6 in., is set in the ground with the large

end projecting. Rocks are placed around it and it is provided with a

cover. Several extensions are attached to the 6-in. opening and the end

permitted to project slightly from the ground. Rocks are also placed

about this opening. The rabbit enters the trap at the small opening and

is free to come and go from the burrow. By closing the small opening,

the quarry may be taken out at the large opening.

* * * * *

¶Vaseline is a good cleaner for commutators while machines are in

operation and under load.

[Illustration]

A Woodsman’s Log Raft

BY A. M. PARKER

Making a raft for crossing a stream, or other small body of water,

is often a diversion for campers, who have the usual supply of camp

tools and materials. The woodsman is sometimes confronted with a

different situation: He has only a hand ax as his tool equipment, and

to construct a fairly safe raft of crude materials becomes necessary

in order to pursue his course. Logs are readily available, and he may

be fortunate enough to find willow withes, various stringy kinds of

bark, or even coarse seaweed. If these are not available, the practical

woodsman, particularly of the northern regions, builds a raft of logs,

pinned together firmly with poles and pointed wooden spikes, cut on

the spot. The method, as shown in the illustration, is simple and

interesting. It may be of service in the woods even when other methods

of binding the logs into a raft are possible, and as a practical test

of woodcraft for the amateur or boy camper it is of interest. The

sketch shows the completed raft, bound together by wooden pins notched

into poles, and the inset details show the manner in which the poles

are clamped by the crossed pins.

[Illustration: The Inventive Woodsman Builds His Log Raft of Simple

Materials Gathered at the River Bank; the Logs and Poles are Notched

Together Firmly and Held with Wooden Pins]

This method of construction may be applied to a variety of rafts, for

carrying small or large loads. In selecting the material for the raft

several points must be considered. Dry logs are preferable to wet or

green ones, and if the latter are used, a relatively larger raft will

be needed to carry a certain load. For one passenger, three logs, 9

to 12 in. in diameter, 12 to 16 ft. long, and spaced to a width of 5

ft., will provide a stable raft. Poles may be laid across it to give

sufficient footing. For heavier loads the logs should be about the same

length and diameter, but spaced closer together, and laid to form a

raft of considerable width and of greater buoyancy.

Select a shore, sloping gently into the water, if possible, and cut

the logs and poles as near this place as is convenient. Cut the logs

and roll, them to the bank, alternating the butts, if there is any

considerable difference in the diameter of the ends. Cut a supply of

poles of about 3-in. diameter, and of the length necessary to reach

across the proposed raft. Then cut a number of pins of hard wood, 1 ft.

long, and sharpened on one end, as shown in the detailed sketch.

Roll the first log--one of the largest--into the water until it is

nearly floating. If it is bowed or crooked, place the “humped” side

toward the outer edge of the raft. Chop notches, 2 in. deep, in the top

of the log about 1¹⁄₂ ft. from the ends, and squarely across. Place a

pole in the notch, with its end projecting slightly beyond the log,

and cut a double notch in the upper edge of the pole, as shown in the

detail sketches, so that when the pins are driven into the log, they

will rest diagonally in the notches cut into the poles. Make rifts in

the log with the ax, cutting as though to split off a slab of bark and

wood, rather than toward the center of the log, and drive two of the

pins into place. Properly done, this will make a remarkably strong

joint. Fasten a second pole at the other end of the log, and prop up

both poles so as to permit the next log to be rolled into the water,

under the poles.

Notch the second log before slipping it finally into place. Alternate

ends only, of the inner logs, need be fastened, and if time is

important, some of the logs may be left unfastened, provided they are

held tightly between the logs that are pinned. Shove the raft out into

the water as each log is added. If there is a strong current it is

desirable to guy the raft with a pole to the bank, downstream. The last

log, which should also be a large one, is then floated down and pinned

at both ends.

The raft may then be floated, and is ready to be covered with light

poles or brush, to provide a dry footing and a place for the dunnage.

The dunnage is placed near the forward end of the raft, and the person

controlling it sculls with a pole at the rear.

Curved Printing Surface for Sharp Focus in Bromide Enlargements

Practically all of my negatives are of post-card size, and, in

making bromide enlargements, I experienced difficulty in getting

a satisfactory focus on 6 by 10-in. or 8 by 12-in. prints. When

the center of the picture was in focus the outer portions were

usually blurred, and vice versa. Compromising between the two gave

unsatisfactory results. By providing a curved surface, on which the

bromide paper is mounted, results were obtained that are satisfactory

except for architectural subjects. A wooden box was made as long as the

desired print and 1 in. wider. The height may be made as is convenient,

but a height of about 2 in. is satisfactory. A partition was fitted

into the box, dividing its length into two compartments. The upper

edges of the center partition and the ends of the box were cut in the

shape of an arc, the curve being determined by the distance from the

lens to the easel when the center of the picture is in focus. The

bromide paper is fitted to the curves on the box. The device is fitted

to the easel by means of two strips fixed to the bottom of the box,

and extending beyond its ends. The curved surface may be covered with

cardboard to give a better backing for the bromide paper, which is held

in place by pins or small tacks. Where only a small portion of the

negative is to be enlarged, this difficulty will not present itself,

the flat surface being satisfactory.--Victor Woodland, Denver, Colo.

Playing Talking-Machine Records with the Finger Nail

[Illustration: Talking-Machine Records may be Played with the Finger

Nail after a Little Practice]

Talking-machine records may be played with the finger nail, and a

person skilled in the process can afford a party of spectators much

amusement, creating no little surprise. The record is placed over a

penholder, or pencil, and supported by the left hand as shown in the

sketch. It is revolved by the fingers of the left hand, and the nail of

the second finger of the right hand is applied to the record. Practice

is required to obtain satisfactory results and an old record should be

used.--George S. Nissen, Chicago, Ill.

* * * * *

¶Finely powdered graphite dusted on the parts of a motorcycle clutch

when repacking it after cleaning will act as an excellent lubricant.

Safety Chopping Block

[Illustration: This Chopping Block Makes for Safety in That Pieces are

Thrown Away from the Worker]

Chopping of pieces of wood, which must be broken into short lengths,

is often dangerous. The chopping block shown in the illustration was

designed to overcome this element of danger and it may be used for

chopping small kindling wood as well as for breaking up heavier pieces.

When the blow is struck on the wood to be broken the pieces are thrown

away from the person chopping. The sketch shows the device in use for

the chopping of short pieces of wood, and the heavy portion may be used

as a seat. The smaller sketch shows how the block is built up of 2-in.

planks, bolted together--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Canada.

Repairing a Broken Reed Handle

A strong repair for a broken reed handle, like those on market baskets,

handbags, or workbaskets, may be made by joining the broken parts with

a ferrule of tinned sheet metal, brads or wire being used to prevent

the ends from working loose. After the metal fitting has been made,

the handle is rewound with the ends of the material unwound from it,

or if desirable, the entire handle may be re-covered with material of

the original kind or other suitable substitute.--R. E. Brown, Portland,

Ore.

Duck Decoys Mounted on Folding Frame

[Illustration: Duck Decoys Mounted on a Folding Frame may be Made by

the Hunter]

The duck hunter who wishes to economize by making some of his equipment

will be interested in the folding frame for duck decoys, shown in the

illustration. It is made of two strips, ³⁄₄ in. by 2 in. by 3 ft. 6

in., of soft wood, and fitted with a bolt at the middle, so that it

may be folded, for convenience in carrying. The decoys are cut from a

sheet of tinned metal, and are painted to resemble the game.--Carl A.

Haberlein, McPherson, Kan.

Onlaying Script on a Trophy Cup

[Illustration: Copper or Other Metal may be Deposited on the Surface of

the Cup, Making an Effective Inscription]

A novel method of inscribing names or other indications on trophy cups

or medallions is to onlay copper, or other contrasting metal, upon the

surface by the process illustrated. Beeswax, or paraffin, is fixed to

the side of the cup and formed into a dish shape, the surface on which

the onlaying is to be done being covered with only a thin layer of the

wax. With a needle or other suitable instrument, scratch the markings

desired through the thin layer of wax to the surface of the cup. Pour

copper sulphate into the wax cavity if the onlay is to be of copper,

and suspend a small piece of pure copper in the liquid, connected with

the positive pole of a storage battery, or other similar electrical

source. Attach a wire from the negative pole of the battery to the cup.

The copper will be deposited on the surface of the cup where the thin

layer of wax has been scratched off, exposing the metal. The thickness

of the deposit will depend on the length of time that the current is

permitted to flow. Ten hours of action will permit the depositing of a

satisfactory onlay.--M. H. Edwards.

Economy in Motorcycle Tires

Caution in the use of motorcycle tires with a minimum of abuse will

result in a considerable tire saving. Tremendous wear on a single spot

results when the power is thrown in so suddenly that the driving wheel

makes several revolutions before gripping the ground. The proper air

pressure must be maintained in the tires in order to obtain good wear.

Guessing is a poor method of determining the air pressure and the exact

condition should be noted from time to time with a gauge. Ordinarily, a

pressure of 45 to 50 lb should be maintained in the rear tire and about

20 per cent less in the front tire, in the case of 3-in. tires. Rim

cutting from running motorcycle tires underinflated is the commonest

abuse. Dents in the edge of the rims cause undue wear on the tire,

the fabric being worn through by the constant rubbing. Bent rims are

often caused by insufficient air pressure in tires, the liability to

injury being increased when crossing tracks or bumps with an improperly

inflated tire.

[Illustration]

A Knock-Down Tennis-Court Backstop

BY EDWARD R. SMITH

Severe weather soon damages a tennis-court backstop that is built

on posts set in the ground, and permitted to remain in place during

the winter. The backstop shown in the illustration was designed to

overcome this objection, and proved efficient on this score, as well

as economical to build and maintain. Instead of setting the supports

in the ground, they are set on the ground, and guyed by a system of

wire braces. The wire netting is also held taut by wire braces, and

the entire rigging is quickly taken down for storage, and easily set

up when needed again. The lower edge of the wire is held down by hooks

pinned to the ground with tent stakes, making it convenient to unhook

the netting when the grass is to be cut around the backstop. The towers

are 50 ft. apart, about 14 ft. high, and built up of 4 by 4-in. and 2

by 4-in. pieces of sound yellow-pine timber.

[Illustration: The Backstop is Taken Down between Seasons, and can be

Raised Quickly by Means of the Supporting Cables]

Foundations of brick, anchored into the ground, were made for the

towers. End braces of heavy wire, fastened to the top, and guyed to

the sunken anchors at the ground, support the towers against the

weight of the netting and wire rigging. This is convenient in setting

up the arrangement, as a ladder can be leaned against the end of the

tower, guyed securely. To withstand side motion at the top edge of

the netting, the supporting wires are carried on crossarms of 1 by

1-in. pieces of wood, 2 ft. long. This rigging is suspended between

the towers and wired to the netting. When this is drawn up tightly,

the netting is fairly taut. Additional supporting wires, with vertical

leaders to the netting, are used to draw up the entire length of the

netting tautly, as desired.

The netting extends under the towers, and is supported there by wires.

As the netting extends nearly to the end guy wires, players cannot be

harmed easily by running into the wires particularly if a white flag is

attached to the guy wires, about 6 ft. from the ground. Number 20 gauge

wire was used for the supporting cables, and No. 9 for the end braces

extending to the anchored fastenings.

A Folding Ground Seat with Back Rest

[Illustration: This Seat Is Useful Out of Doors and Also for Special

Purposes Indoors]

Those who enjoy sitting or lying upon the grass while reading will

find the device shown in the illustration convenient and comfortable.

With this, one may enjoy the coolness of the ground without harm to

the person or clothing. The adjustable back rest supports the body

in various positions. The device is light, compact, and readily

transported. It is useful also in the home and elsewhere. By placing it

across the bed, or on a trunk, a good substitute for an extra chair is

provided. The seat proper may be folded under and the back rest used as

a prop for reading in bed.

Oak is a suitable wood, and other common woods may be used. First

construct, according to the dimensions given, three rectangular

frames, with mortise-and-tenon joints. Cover the seat and back frames

with heavy duck, turning it in ¹⁄₂ in. at the edges. The base is an

open frame, provided with adjusting notches, spaced 2 in apart. Next

make the adjusting frame, as detailed. Hinge the back and the seat

to the base, and fasten the adjusting frame to the back with screws,

permitting it to fold, as shown.--T. H. Linthicum, Annapolis, Md.

Bicycle Carried on Automobile as Tender

Steam yachts often carry a motorboat tender, and an automobile may

carry a bicycle for emergencies. An autoist whose duties require him to

travel through rural districts, had numerous unhappy experiences with a

stalled car until he hit upon this scheme. The bicycle is strapped on

the running board of the car, its handlebars turned flat against the

side, and its wheels in tire sockets in the running board. A tank in

the bicycle frame holds several gallons, and if the owner runs out of

gasoline, he uses the tender to get a supply, filling the auto tank by

siphoning the gasoline through a flexible tube.--John Miller Bonbright,

Philadelphia, Pa.

Heater Keeps Developer at Proper Temperature

[Illustration]

Having had trouble with developer cooling down and failing to work

properly, while developing in the dark room, I constructed the

apparatus shown. A small light-tight box was made slightly larger than

the tray, with a removable top having an opening to hold the tray. An

electric-light socket was fastened inside at one end of the box and a

lamp fitted to it. A wire was attached across the middle of the lower

side of the box, so that the latter and the tray could be rocked.

The box was lined with black paper and varnished black. The edges of

the opening in the top were fringed with felt to guard against light

leakage. A thermometer is used to determine the temperature. When

the developer cools, turn on the light until it reaches the required

temperature.--John Hoeck, Alameda, California.

[Illustration]

Steam-Propelled Motorcycle Made by Mechanic

BY L. L. VOELEHERT

As an example of the application of steam power to the propulsion of

a vehicle, the motorcycle shown in the illustration is interesting.

While it does not embody the many refinements of gasoline motorcycles

manufactured commercially, and makes no pretense of competing with

them, the machine has a striking individuality. It was made by a

mechanic in his spare time, with only the facilities of a small machine

shop. Tests and hard usage over typical roads have shown it to be easy

riding, partly by reason of its weight, and to give very steady power.

The machine can be reversed quickly and no clutch is used. It has a

wheel base of 75 in., and weighs about 350 pounds.

The upper portions of the frame are made of 1-in. steel tubing,

strongly riveted at the fork and other joints. The lower section, from

the fork to the rear axle, is made of a double bar of 1¹⁄₂ by ¹⁄₂-in.

steel, spread and braced to carry the tank, engine, and boiler. The

fork is forged from strips of steel, and fitted to standard motorcycle

wheels. The handlebars, seat, transmission chains and gears, as well as

other fittings, are of the ordinary motorcycle type. The seat may be

moved and clamped at various places along the upper bar of the frame,

and an extra seat may be installed, or a bundle carrier may be fitted

behind the driver.

Gasoline, with which to heat water for the generation of steam, is

carried in the long round tank, hung below the frame at the top. The

water supply is contained in the square flat tank under the lower part

of the frame. The engine is supported on the frame immediately above

the water tank, and drives a shaft, which is geared to the rear wheel

by a chain and sprocket.

[Illustration: This Motorcycle is Propelled by a Steam Plant and was

Built in a Small Shop by a Mechanic in His Spare Time]

The round boiler, with gasoline burners beneath it, is carried on the

lower part of the frame, which is spread, immediately behind the front

wheel. The boiler is 16 in. in diameter and 12 in. high. It is fitted

with valves, whistle, water gauge, and the usual fittings of a boiler.

The engine is of the horizontal type, and the working parts are largely

inclosed, so as to protect them from dust and to avoid possible danger

to the operator.

Sideboard Converted into Kitchenette

Living in rooms, in which it was necessary to use the small living

room as a kitchen and dining room as well, the storage of the cooking

equipment became a problem. It was unsightly in the room when not in

use, and there was no convenient place in which to store it out of

sight. The kitchenette, shown in the sketch, was made from an old

sideboard, and served the purpose admirably, being useful also for

other needs.

[Illustration: An Old Sideboard was Converted into a Useful

Kitchenette, Which Economises Space]

The top was removed and hinged to one end, the supports being

removable, for storing them in the cabinet. The hinged top provided a

support for the dishes while cooking. The partition between the top

drawers was removed and the fronts of the drawers fastened in place

with screws. The space thus made available was lined with asbestos, and

a small gas stove was fitted into it. The gas line was connected to the

stove and two pieces of asbestos sheeting were hinged to fold under the

cover and to be leaned against the wall as a protection while cooking.

The top could be hinged at the back to protect the wall, or cut in two

and the parts hinged one at each end of the cabinet. The lower drawers

of the kitchenette were fitted to hold the cooking materials and

equipment.

When the kitchenette is closed it is useful as a stand or table,

for dining, or for other purposes, including ironing. In the latter

operation, it is often desirable to have the hinged top open to give

free access around the end of the top.--J. S. Hagans, Toledo, Ohio.

Bee Feeder for Winter Use

The use of a feeder, like that shown in the sketch, makes the feeding

of bees in winter convenient. Sirup is fed to the bees from inverted

glass jars, the openings of which are covered with muslin, the jars

being incased in a packing of chaff in a wooden covering. The wooden

box is made to fit over the hive, as shown in the sketch, and a 2-in.

strip is nailed over the joint.

[Illustration: Sirup is Fed to the Bees in Winter and Protected from

the Cold by the Feeding Jars Inclosed in the Box]

The device is made as follows: Use wood smoothed on both sides; pine

basswood, or other soft wood being satisfactory. Make two pieces, ⁷⁄₈

in. thick, and the same size as the top of the hive. Into one of these

cut two round holes, as shown, to fit the necks of the jars. Make

two pieces, 6³⁄₄ in. wide, for the sides, and two for the ends, the

length being suited to the hive, the dimensions given in the sketch

being suggestive only. Make four strips, 2 in. wide, and long enough

to fit the four sides of the box. Nail the pieces of the box together,

as shown, nailing the sides over the end pieces, and the top over the

frame of sides and ends. Pack chaff into the box, and, after filling

the jars with sirup and covering their openings with muslin, pack the

jars into the box so that their openings will be level with the bottom

through which the holes have been cut. Fasten the board, with holes for

the jars, into place with screws, so that it may be removed when it is

desired to remove the jars for refilling. Nail the 2-in. strips around

the lower edge of the box so as to cover the joint between the box and

the hive. The feeder is then fitted into place, the bees feeding from

the surface of the muslin. The chaff prevents the sirup from congealing

in cold weather and so it is always available for the bees. The use of

this simple device will prove economical and practical in keeping bees

over the winter, assuring them a good food supply, with little effort

on the part of the keeper.--Gus Hansen, Peachland, B. C., Can.

Kink for Driving Nails

Nails, or spikes, may be driven into hard wood without causing them to

buckle by applying a coating of vaseline, beeswax, and rosin, mixed in

equal portions. A convenient method of applying the mixture is to bore

a hole in the end of the hammer handle and fill it with the material.

The nails may be pressed into the hole to coat them.--O. Root, Lorain,

Ohio.

Porch Gate Folds into Hollow Pillar

The porch is a convenient play spot for the children, but must be

properly safeguarded to prevent not uncommon accidents and injury

by falls. The folding gate shown in the sketch provides substantial

barrier to the head of the stairs, and may be quickly folded out of the

way. It is hardly noticeable when set in the side of the pillar, and

does not mar the finish or general effect of the latter.

[Illustration: The Gate is Folded When Not in Use and is Concealed in

the Hollow Porch Pillar]

The gate is made of strips of band iron, although wood may be used.

The strips are fastened with bolts, or rivets, and the forward end is

fitted to the section of the pillar, which forms the cover for the

recess in which the gate is housed. The cover is hooked to the opposite

pillar when the gate is opened. Any suitable height may be chosen for

the gate, but, for the purpose suggested, 24 to 30 in. is satisfactory.

The device may be adapted to a variety of other uses by providing a box

or chamber for the collapsed gate, when no hollow recess is otherwise

available.

A Homemade Book Holder

[Illustration: Nails Driven in a Board and Bent in the Shape of Screw

Hooks to Hold a Book]

A piece of board and four finishing nails furnished me with the

necessary materials to construct a book-holding apparatus when in a

hurry. Each nail, being driven through the board, could be turned to

release, and pulled out far enough to accommodate a thicker book. In

fact the device was adjustable.

The Enchanted Card Frame

A mystifying card trick, in which the performer makes use of the

enchanted card frame shown in detail in the illustration, is as

follows: A pack of playing cards is given to one of the spectators, who

selects a card, noting the number and suit. The card is then placed in

an envelope and burned by the spectator. The performer takes the ashes

and loads them into a pistol, which he aims at a small frame, shown as

empty, and set upon a table a few feet distant. The frame is covered

with a handkerchief, and the pistol is fired at the frame. On removing

the handkerchief the selected and destroyed card appears in the frame,

from which it is taken at the back.

[Illustration: FIG. 3

FIG. 2

FIG. 1

FIG. 4

FIG. 5

A Pocket is Cut into the Frame, and Filled with Black Sand, Obscuring

the Card When the Frame is Inverted]

The trick is performed as follows: A forced deck is prepared having 24

like cards, and the backs of the cards are held to the spectators when

a card is selected. The frame is made of a molding 2 in. wide, mitered

at the corners, and of the size indicated, the opening being 6³⁄₈ by

7¹⁄₂ in. The general views of the frame in normal position and inverted

are shown in Figs. 1 and 5. A pocket is cut in the lower edge of the

frame at the back, as shown in detail in Fig. 2. A pane of glass is

fitted into the frame, and on the three edges other than the one having

a pocket, strips of cardboard, ¹⁄₈ in. thick, are glued, as a bearing

for a second piece of glass, as shown in Fig. 4. The back of the frame

is fitted with a cover of thin wood, and a hinged door is arranged in

the center of the back, as shown in Fig. 3.

A mat of black cardboard is fitted into the frame to form a background

behind the card, Fig. 1. The pocket at the bottom is filled with black

sand--that used by sign painters is satisfactory--and the frame is

ready to receive the card for the performance of the trick. One of

the cards from the forced deck is placed in the frame. By inverting

the latter the sand is caused to run between the glass partitions,

concealing the card on the black mat behind it. In this condition

it is exhibited to the spectators and then placed upon the table. A

handkerchief is thrown over it. The pistol is one of the toy variety

and a cap is fired in it. In picking up the frame the performer turns

it over, while removing the handkerchief, so that the black sand runs

back into the pocket in the frame.--Harry Marcelle, Honolulu, H. I.

[Illustration]

Portable Fence for Baby’s Play Area

BY L. N. ROBINSON

A child in the “toddler” stage should be provided with a safe place

in which to play without disturbing the household routine of the busy

mother too frequently. The folding wood-and-wire fence shown in the

illustration meets this need in a practical and inexpensive manner. It

may be used in the home or out of doors, the fence being especially

useful in the latter case, since it protects the child, and likewise

the lawn flowers, which a youngster, unguarded, may injure. The fence

is 25 to 32 in. high, strong enough to support a grown person sitting

on the edge of it, and incloses an area of about 4 by 6 ft. This is

ample for the child, and the folded fence is thus not too bulky to

be transported easily. The materials cost less than $3.50, including

hardware for the making of the fence, as shown in the working drawings.

The wood used for the main frames is ¹⁄₂ by 2 in., and they are covered

with wire mesh, the edges of which are nailed under strips, on the

outer side of the frames. Care should be taken to insure that none

of the wire strands is exposed, thus endangering the child, or the

clothes of passers-by. The frames are hinged together, as shown in

the plan, and fold into compact form. Two long and four short frames

are required. Cut the top and bottom rails of the long frames 6 ft.

in length, and those of the shorter frames and the stiles 25 in. The

corner joints are cross-lapped by cutting away one-half the thickness

of each strip, as shown at A. The joints at the top and bottom of the

center stile, or vertical piece, are made as shown at B, and the joints

at the crossing of the center stiles and the cross braces, as at C.

The braces only are notched to fit the stile. Each of the joints is

fastened with flat-head screws, countersunk. The ends of the braces

are cut to fit flush into the corners of the frames, and are nailed in

place. This provides a flat nailing surface for the wire mesh and the

strips that cover its edges.

[Illustration: A Safe Play Space Either Indoors or Outdoors is Provided

for the Child, and the Fence may be Moved Easily. The Construction Is

Light yet Stable, and can be Carried Out without Difficulty by the Home

Woodworker]

Before putting on the wire mesh, all the exposed corners should be

“broken” slightly with sandpaper, the wood wiped smooth, and finished

with a coat of shellac. The wood may, of course, be left unfinished.

In fixing the 1-in. wire mesh in place, fasten one end of the piece

squarely at the end of the frame, nailing it with staples. Place a

strip of wood under each end of the frame and bear down on the middle

of the frame, or weight it, to produce a bowed effect. Then nail the

other end of the wire securely; on removing the strips, the wire will

be drawn taut. Tack the edges down, and repeat this process on the

other frames. Next nail the covering strips on the front faces of the

frames, mitering them at the corners, as shown at A.

[Illustration: Join the Pieces with Well-Made Lap Joints, and Hinge the

Frames as Indicated]

The frames are then joined by means of hinges, as shown in the plan

at A. Care should be taken that they are set so that the corners of

the fence meet squarely and evenly when it is opened. Metal drawbolts

should be fastened horizontally, one on the top of each folding joint

between the end sections. These will prevent the child from folding the

ends in, and possibly injuring its fingers. The completed fence is then

given a final coat of shellac or varnish, the galvanized wire being

left unfinished.

The materials required for the fence are as follows, the wood being

listed in lineal feet, and smoothed on four sides to the dimensions

indicated:

155 ft. ¹⁄₂ by 2-in. clear pine

50 ft. ¹⁄₄ by 1-in. clear pine

22 lineal ft. 1-in. mesh, 2-ft. wide wire fencing.

6 pairs 1¹⁄₂ in. iron plain butt hinges, with screws.

2 steel drawbolts, with screws.

¹⁄₂ pt. white shellac.

Water Rheostat for Small Electrical Devices

[Illustration]

The rheostat shown in the illustration can be made quickly and at small

expense. The base consists of a piece of wood, ¹⁄₂ by 2 by 12 in. A

glass tube, 1 in. in diameter and 6 in. long, is fastened to this with

strips of sheet metal. A large brass tack is driven into a cork, and

the cork is inserted in the lower end of the tube. A wire runs from the

brass tack to the binding post A. The lower part of the tube should

be paraffined to make it water-tight. A brass or copper rod is placed

through the binding posts B and C. The resistance can be changed by

sliding the rod up or down. The tube is nearly filled with water having

a small quantity of salt dissolved in it. The amount will depend upon

the current to be reduced. The rheostat should be fastened to a wall,

or other support, and may be used to regulate the speed of small motors

and other electrical devices.--R. R. Wayt, Pittsburgh, Pa.

White Blotting Paper Improves Light Reflectors

In the lecture and classrooms of a large university it was found

that reflections of the electric-light bulbs in the glazed porcelain

reflectors were extremely annoying to the eyes of students, and

concentration of sight on the blackboard was difficult. A number

of tests were made, and the following method proved successful,

eliminating the glare and the reflections. Large sheets of white

blotting paper were cut to fit the inside of the reflectors, and

then glued to their surface. The soft, somewhat rough surface of the

blotting paper diffused the light, so that the glare was overcome.--C.

M. Hall, St. Louis, Mo.

Two Simple Vises for the Home Workbench

Boys, and other amateurs, sometimes have need of a vise when a

commercial article or one of standard type cannot be had readily. The

devices shown in the illustration will give good service and can be

made of material easily obtained. The vise shown in Fig. 1 was made of

old machine parts, consisting of a bolt and a wing nut. The bolt A was

flattened at one end and bent at a right angle. A hole to fit it was

bored through the top of the bench B, and the washer C and wing nut D

were put in place. The piece to be gripped is clamped under the end A.

This device should be fitted near the end and front edge of the bench.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 2

These Vises may be Made Easily of Materials Available in Most Workshops]

The vise shown in Fig. 2 grips the block E in the same manner as the

first vise. The jaw F is bolted to a vertical piece, G, which is fitted

into a mortise cut through the bench top. The wedge H passes through a

mortise in the piece G and clamps against the lower side of the bench

top.--James E. Noble, Toronto, Can.

Drinking-Glass Holders Easily Made

[Illustration: These Homemade Holders for Glasses Are Useful and

Quickly Constructed]

Several styles of holders for a drinking glass are suggested in the

illustration. They may be made of durable materials easily obtained in

the home workshop. The first is made by twisting a galvanized-iron or

brass wire, as shown, with an eye and a loop for fastening it to the

wall. A cork is fixed to the upper end, on which to rest the glass. The

lower sketch shows a holder of the cup type made by riveting a metal

cup to a diamond-shaped plate, the latter being fastened to the wall.

The holder at the right is made from a piece of sheet metal cut to the

shape indicated below. It is bent to the shape shown, and the lower end

of the narrow strip is curved upward to provide a rest for the edge of

the glass. The upper portion of the holder should be large enough so

that the glass may be raised sufficiently to fit into the rest. The

holes are provided for a fastening.--Frank L. Matter, Portland, Ore.

Emery Needle Cushion on Sewing Machine

A convenient emery pad and needle cushion may be made by inclosing

the powder in a long sack, about 1 in. in diameter, and sewing it in

place around the arm of the machine. It will thus be close at hand and

needles and pins may be stuck in the cushion, free from rust, and will

not be in the way.

[Illustration: A Compensated Aerial Cableway

_by_ Edward R. Smith]

The possibilities for practical use as well as novelty for play and

experimental purposes make the compensated aerial cableway, shown in

the illustrations, not only interesting but also worthy of study. The

arrangement assembled in its simplest form with two towers, in the

page plate, shows how the weight of the car is compensated, so that

a fairly level course on the track cable is provided. The various

positions of the load and cables, showing the application of the

compensating principle, are indicated in Figs. 1 to 5, and a multiple

system is shown in Fig. 6. The details of the constructional parts

are also shown. The car may be driven by wind power, as shown in Fig.

7, or by a motor, as in Fig. 8, in addition to the simple application

of hand power suggested in the page plate. Devices for automatically

reversing the course of the cars both for the sail rigging and with

the use of electrical power, are shown in Figs. 7 and 8. By their use

it is unnecessary to have an operator at each end of the cableway.

The constructional features were worked out first by experiments on

models in a shop, and then applied to a large rigging spanning over

100 ft. between the A-frames. The sketch in the page plate was made

from photographs of this construction. Application of the compensating

principle to carrying and transportation problems affords opportunity

for interesting engineering, in spanning streams, cañons, or gulleys.

In most types of cableways a considerable sag is allowed in the cable

supporting the car in addition to that caused by its own weight. Even

in systems of practically constant cable tension, in which the wire is

stretched by enormous weights, the loaded car causes a sag in the track

cable, and ascends and descends an incline when approaching and leaving

a tower. The aim in the compensated cableway is to overcome this sag as

much as possible, and to offer a minimum of resistance to the car in

its course.

The simple form of compensated cableway shown in the page plate is

made by setting up two A-frames, with wire braces supporting them, and

mounting the track and traction cables upon them. A light, flexible

compensating cable extends from one tower to the other and is fitted

to grooved pulley wheels at the tops of the towers, as shown in the

detail at the right. The ends of the cable are fixed to wire hooks,

from which the track cable is suspended. The latter is anchored at the

ends of the wire braces supporting the A-frames. In order to understand

the operation of the system it is desirable that the course of a load

be traced in its various stages, as indicated in the diagrams, Figs. 1

to 5. For diagrammatic purposes the load is shown passing from the west

slope to the east. As the load passes under the first A-frame, as in

Fig. 2, the track cable is drawn down at that point; the corresponding

end of the compensating cable is also drawn down, raising the opposite

end of the track cable, and taking out most of the sag in the center

portion of the track cable. As the load passes to the center position,

as shown in Fig. 3, the track cable resumes a more nearly horizontal

position. When the second A-frame is reached the load draws the

corresponding end of the compensating cable down with the track cable,

Fig. 4, and the latter assumes its normal position as the load reaches

the end of the course. It is evident from the diagrams that the course

of the load is more nearly level than it would be if the sagging of the

track cable were not counteracted.

For use with a multiple-frame system, the cables are arranged in units

between supports, as shown in Fig. 6. The compensating action is

similar, the tendency being to level the entire course of the load. The

weight of the car and load only is compensated, and since the weight

of the cable will cause a sag, the course cannot be level, but may

approach this condition.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

FIG. 5

FIG. 6

This Interesting Model Cableway was Built by a Boy for Play and

Experimental Purposes: The Principle by Which the Weight of the Car is

Compensated in Single and Multiple Systems is Indicated in the Diagrams

Above. Cars Propelled by Sail Rigging or by a Small Battery Motor may

Also be Used]

A model of the compensated cableway, as shown in the page plate, or

on a smaller scale, may be made by a boy of fair mechanical skill.

For experimental purposes the detail may, of course, be refined to a

high grade of workmanship, if desired. The size and dimensions of the

parts need not be proportioned precisely as shown, but may depend more

or less upon the materials available. The track cable should be made

of galvanized-iron wire, the compensating cable of fishline, and the

towers of 1-in. stuff, the width of the pieces making up the A-frames

being increased in proportion to the height. Grooved pulley wheels, set

in housings fixed to the top of the A-frames, carry the compensating

cable. These may be made of wood, built up in three sections, to

provide a flange on each side of the cable groove. The A-frames should

be joined strongly at the top, and braced to anchors, sunk into the

ground as shown. The hooks from which the track cable is suspended are

made of heavy wire, bent so as not to interfere with the H-frame hanger

supporting the car, and looped around the cable.

Various types of hangers may be devised to house the two pulley wheels

which ride on the track cable. A simple H-frame hanger is shown in the

detail sketch in the page plate. The grooved pulley wheels are set on

bolts, and a heavy wire is bent and set through the center block as

a support for the car. For experimental purposes, or even for play,

when it is not desired to make a more elaborate car, a wooden block or

other object of sufficient weight may be used as a load. An interesting

feature of the work, especially for a boy, is to devise a realistic

coach model, as suggested in the sketch. A wooden block forms the base,

and the roof and platforms are made of sheet metal. The windows and

doors are painted on the metal. The inventive boy may, of course, build

a car with a hollow metal or wooden body, and weight it properly to

provide the necessary load.

The motive power is provided by means of a cord, or traction cable,

carried around two large grooved pulleys, mounted in supports fixed to

the landing stages at each end of the cableway. They are made of wood,

a suitable groove being cut around the edge with a saw, and smoothed

with a small round file, or sandpaper wrapped over a round rod. The

traction pulley is turned by means of a crank, set on the bolt which is

used as an axle. The traction cable must be drawn sufficiently taut to

provide the necessary pressure on the grooved pulleys, or it will slip.

Rosin applied to the pulleys and the cable will tend to prevent this.

[Illustration: FIG. 7

The Car is Propelled by the Wind Action on a Sail Controlled Like the

Main Sheet of a Sailboat in Tacking. The Trigger Device Releases the

Sail, Reversing the Course of the Car]

If the frames and other fittings have been properly set up, the

cableway will support a sail car, shown in Fig. 7, or a two-cell

electric car, driven by a small motor, as shown in Fig. 8. The

sailing-car arrangement is often feasible, since a stiff breeze is

common in gorges, cañons, narrow valleys, or even in ravines where

such a cableway might be set up. The hanger is an H-frame having the

grooved pulleys bolted in it, and further reinforced by small blocks

at the ends. A braced frame, supporting a deck on which a mast is set,

is suspended from the hanger by four curved wires, as shown in the

side view, Fig. 7. A sail with boom and gaff is supported by the mast.

It is arranged to be shifted around the mast, which is accomplished

automatically at the end of a run, or “tack,” by means of the trigger

device shown in the top view. The sail is controlled in relation to the

wind much as is the main sheet of a sailboat. The car can be operated

in this manner only at right angles to the direction of the wind,

or nearly so. For play purposes, a boy stationed at each end of the

cableway can shift the sail, but the trigger device shown makes this

unnecessary. A rubber band is attached to the boom, as indicated in the

top view, and a cord and wire are arranged to engage a trigger. A stop

for the trigger is fixed to the A-frame so that it is sprung when the

car reaches the end of the run. The rubber band reverses the sail, the

car having been set on the cable originally so that the forward end is

in proper relation to the wind.

[Illustration: FIG. 8

The Electric Car Is Self-Contained and may be Reversed Automatically,

if the Motor Is of the Reversible Type, by Contact of the Lever with

the Stop Fixed to the A-Frame]

The electric car is especially interesting in that it provides

self-contained motive power by means of a battery of dry cells, and a

motor belted to the hanger, as shown in Fig. 8. The hanger is of the

H-frame type with heavy blocks between the sidepieces to provide for

the small grooved driving pulley set on the axle of one of the larger

pulleys. A wooden deck, supported by four heavy wires set into the

center block of the hanger, carries the motor, and the dry cells are

fixed under it. The motor is of the small reversible battery type, and

should be provided with a reversing lever. This will make it possible

to reverse the car when it reaches the end of its course. The motor and

cells should be disposed so as to balance, tests being made for this

purpose before setting them in place finally. A cord or small leather

belt connects the drive pulley of the motor with the proper pulley on

the hanger. These pulleys should be in line, and that on the hanger

should be five times the diameter of the one on the motor shaft. The

power is shut off at the end of the course by a shut-off switch which

strikes a stop crank attached to the A-frame. When the reversing lever

and stop are used, the stop crank is unnecessary. A nonreversing motor

can be made to drive the car in a reverse direction by removing the

belt from the motor pulley and replacing it to make a figure-eight

twist.

* * * * *

¶When babbitt metal is heated some of the tin and antimony in it is

burned out, making it unsuited for use in machinery bearings, and

similar purposes, after several heatings. The oxidation of the metal

is indicated by the formation of a scum on the surface.

[Illustration: A Miniature Fighting Tank

That Hurdles Trenches

BY EDWARD R. SMITH]

Among the engines of war in action on land, probably none has created

greater interest than the now famous “fighting tank,” which, according

to reports, pours out missiles of destruction on the enemy from

armored turrets, and crawls over trenches, shell craters, and similar

obstructions, like a fabled giant creature of prehistoric ages. The

tank described in this article, while not as deadly as those on

the battle fields of Europe, performs remarkable feats of hurdling

trenches, and crawling over obstructions, large in proportion to its

size. The model, as shown in the heading sketches, is full-armored,

and has a striking resemblance to these war monsters. The turret is

mounted with a magazine gun, which fires 20 projectiles automatically,

as the tank makes its way over the rough ground. The motive power for

the tractor bands is furnished by linked rubber bands, stretched by a

winding drum and ratchet device, on the rear axle, as shown in Fig. 1.

When the ratchet is released, the rear axle drives the fluted wheels

on it, and they in turn drive the tractor bands, as shown in the side

elevation, Fig. 6. The wire-wrapped flywheel conserves the initial

power of the rubber-band motor, and makes its action more nearly

uniform.

The tank will run upward of 10 ft. on the rubber-motor power, depending

on the size and number of the bands used. The gun is fired by a spring

hammer, actuated by a rubber band. The trigger device is shown in Fig.

1. The pulley A is belted, with cord, to the front axle. Four pins on

its inner side successively engage the wire trigger, drawing it out of

the gun breech B, and permitting another shell to drop into place. As

the pulley revolves, the trigger is released, firing the projectile.

This process goes on until the motor runs down, or the supply of shells

is exhausted.

The tank is guided by the pilot wheel, shown in Fig. 1. The sheet-metal

armor, with its turret, is fitted over the mechanism, and can be

removed quickly. It bears on angles bent up, as detailed in Fig. 2,

to fit on the ends of the wooden center crosspiece of the main frame,

and is held by removable pins at the ends of this frame. While the

rubber motor is easy to make and install, the range of the tank can be

increased by using a strong spring motor, the construction otherwise

being similar.

The construction is best begun by making the wooden frame which

supports the armor. The perspective sketch, Fig. 1, used in connection

with the working and detailed drawings, will aid in making the latter

clear. Make the frame C, as detailed in Figs. 5 and 6, ³⁄₈ by 1³⁄₄ by

11 in. long, with an opening cut in the center, 1 in. wide, 1 in. from

the rear, and 1¹⁄₄ in. from the front end. Make the crosspiece D ³⁄₈ by

1³⁄₄ by 5⁷⁄₈ in. long; the gun support E, as detailed in Fig. 4, ³⁄₈

by 1⁵⁄₁₆ by 6¹⁄₄ in. long. Shape the support E as shown. Fasten the

frame C and the crosspiece D with screws, setting the piece D 5³⁄₄ in.

from the front, and its left end 3 in. from the side of the frame, as

shown in Fig. 5. This is important, as the fitting of the other parts

depends on the position of these wooden supports.

[Illustration: FIG. 3

FIG. 4

FIG. 1

FIG. 2

Perspective Sketch, Showing the Arrangement of the Parts, with the

Armor and the Tractor Bands Removed, and Details of the Gun Mechanism

and the Armor]

The drive-wheel axles are carried in sheet-metal hangers, F, shown in

Figs. 1 and 5, and detailed in Fig. 6. These hangers also carry bearing

wheels, G, Fig. 1, which are held between the hanger F and a metal

angle, as detailed at G, Fig. 6. These wheels are cut on a broomstick,

and mounted on nail axles. The metal for the hangers F is drilled as

shown, and bent double at the ends to make a strong bearing for the

drive-wheel axles. The upper portion is bent at a right angle and fits

over the top surface at the end of the crosspiece D, and is fastened to

it with small screws or nails. Cut the stock for the hangers 2 by 6³⁄₈

in. long.

Next make the sheet-metal support H, Fig. 1, for the flywheel, the rim

of which is wrapped with wire to give it added weight. Cut the stock,

as detailed in Fig. 6, 1³⁄₄ by 4³⁄₁₆ in. long, and notch it to form the

spring arrangement, which holds the flywheel so that the belt will be

tight. The other sheet-metal support may then be made also. Cut the

stock for the front support J, for the rubber motor, 4¹⁄₈ by 3³⁄₄ in.

long, and shape it as shown in the detail, Fig. 6. Make the support

K from a piece of sheet metal, in general shape similar to that used

for support H, the dimensions being made as required, and no spring

arrangement being provided. Drill these metal fittings, as indicated,

for the points of fastening, and mark the places for the holes in which

shafts or axles run very carefully.

The driving mechanism can then be made, as shown in Fig. 1, and

detailed in Figs. 5 and 6. The driving shafts and their parts, as well

as the pulleys, can be turned in a lathe, or made from spools, round

rods, etc. Make the front axle L, and wheels, joined solidly, 5³⁄₄

in. over all, the grooved wheels being ³⁄₄ in. thick, and 1⁷⁄₁₆ in.

in diameter. Wires are used as bearings for shafts for the driving

axles. If the rear axle is turned in a lathe, it is cut down to the

shape indicated, thinner at the middle, to provide a place for the cord

connected to the rubber motor. The grooved pulley and the fluted drive

wheel at the winding-key end, shown in Fig. 5, are then cut loose; the

drive wheel on the other end is cut loose, forming three sections,

mounted on the wire axle, one end of which is the winding key. Ratchet

wheels, M, are fitted between the ends of the center section and the

adjoining pieces, the ratchet wheels being nailed to the center section

and soldered to the wire axle. Pawls, U, are fitted to the inside of

the two end sections, as indicated in Fig. 1 and in Fig. 5. When the

rubber motor is wound up on the drum, the tractor bands are gripped

until it is desired to start the tank on its trip. Then the power is

communicated from the drum, or center section of the axle, to the drive

wheels by means of the ratchet wheels, acting on the pawls.

Mount the hangers F on the center crosspiece D, fitting the axles of

the drive wheels into place. Make the weighted flywheel, and mount

it on its shaft, as shown, lining it up with the pulley on the rear

drive shaft. Fit the supports J and K into place, setting spools for

the rubber-motor cord in place, on wire axles. Arrange the belt from

the flywheel to the drive shaft, and connect the rubber bands for the

rubber motor as shown. Fasten one end in the hook of support J, and

pass the winding cord through the spools, and fix it to the drive

shaft. The device can then be operated with the fluted drive wheels,

bearing on strips of wood for tracks.

The tractor bands N are fitted over the drive wheels, as shown in

Fig. 6. They are built up of canvas strips, on which wooden shoes are

glued and sewed, as detailed in Fig. 5. The stitches which reinforce

the gluing are taken in the order indicated by the numerals. The pilot

wheel is 2 in. in diameter, and sharpened at its circumference. Make a

metal shell, O, for it, as detailed in Fig. 6. Solder the shell to the

double wire, which supports the wheel and gives it a spring tension to

take obstructions nicely. The wire is fastened to the crosspiece D, as

shown in Fig. 5.

The gun and its mechanism can be made handily before the support E is

fixed into place at the front of the crosspiece D. Shape the magazine P

from sheet metal, making it 2⁵⁄₈ in. high, as detailed in Fig. 4. Make

the gun Q from a piece of sheet metal, as detailed, cutting the metal

to the exact dimensions indicated. Mount the magazine and the gun, and

arrange the wire hammer R, and the rubber band that holds it. Fit the

pulley A into place on its axle, supported by a small block of wood.

Belt it to the front drive-wheel axle, as shown in Fig. 5, after the

gun support is fastened into place with screws. Make the projectiles

of wood, as shown, and the fighting tank is ready to be tested before

putting on the armor.

The armor is made of one deck piece, S, Fig. 3, into which the covered

turret is set, and two side pieces T, as detailed in Fig. 2. Make one

left and one right sidepiece, allowing for the flanges all around, to

be bent over and used for riveting or soldering the armor together.

The bottom extension on the sidepieces is bent double to form an angle,

on which the armor is supported, where it rests on the top of the

hangers F. The turret is fitted to the deck by cutting notches along

its lower edge, the resulting strips being alternately turned in and

out along the point of joining, as shown in Fig. 3. When the armor is

completed, it is fitted over the main frame, the gun projecting from

the turret. Small pins hold the ends of the armor solid against the

ends of the main frame C, so that the armor can be lifted off readily.

The various parts of the fighting tank can be painted as desired, care

being taken not to injure the points of bearing, on the axles and

pulleys, which should be oiled. Silver bronze is a good finish for the

exterior of the armor, which may be decorated with a coat of arms.

[Illustration: FIG. 5

FIG. 6

Plan and Side Elevation of the Interior Mechanism, with the Armor

Removed, and Details of the Metal Fittings, the Ratchets, and the

Tractor Bands]

A Neat and Economical Baby Crib Made from a Clothes Basket

[Illustration: A Few Sticks of Wood and a Clothes Basket Make a

Convenient Cradle for the Baby]

A clothes basket on a simple but strong wooden frame, mounted on

castors, makes a cradle which is as convenient and sanitary as many

which are sold for five times its cost. It is light enough to roll out

on the porch without difficulty, and may be padded and fitted with

pillows until the most exacting mother is satisfied. The basket and

frame should be painted, preferably some light color. The whole cost,

not including pads or pillows, should not be over $2.50.--A. Switzer,

Denver, Colo.

A Small Rheostat for Experiments and Testing

[Illustration: This Homemade Rheostat Has a Capacity of One-Half to

Five Amperes, on a Six-Volt Circuit]

A rheostat made as shown in the sketch has been used successfully for

calibrating a large number of ammeters and wattmeters. One of the

general designs suggested will be useful for many other purposes.

The dimensions given were used for obtaining a variation of from

¹⁄₂ to 5 amperes with a 6-volt source of electromotive force. For

other capacities the proportions may be increased or decreased

proportionately. A piece of pine, 7 by 9¹⁄₂ in., forms the base.

For resistance wire No. 16 gauge “Climax” was used, but wire of any

material which will carry the maximum current without excessive

oxidation may be employed instead. Nails support the resistance wire,

which should be soldered to the nails to insure good electrical

contact. Leads of flexible cord are arranged as shown. These are

soldered to the first and last nails in the series. To provide

connection between the free ends of the cord and the resistance wire

or the nails, 5-ampere test clips are soldered to the cord ends. The

teeth of the clip jaws are filed off, and in their stead a short piece

of brass wire is soldered to each jaw, as indicated in the detailed

view. A nick is filed in each of the brass wires so that they will hold

firmly onto the resistance wire or nail. Suspender or display-case

clips, suitably modified, may be substituted for the commercial test

clips.

In using the device, one clip is moved along the front span. The other

is gripped to a nail in the rear row. Sliding the front clip along

the span wire insures a fine adjustment of resistance. Gripping the

rear clip on the different nails provides the coarse adjustment--R. F.

Binney, La Vina, Calif.

* * * * *

¶Glue applied to door-knob screws will prevent them from loosening

easily, yet they may be removed without difficulty.

Roll-Paper Feed for Typewriter

Typewriter paper may be fed from a roll where only one copy is

necessary and where maximum speed of production is essential. Sections,

not to exceed about 11 in. in length, of the typed paper are torn off

as necessary. This practice is followed often in newspaper offices. The

roll paper can be purchased at any paper-supply house, cut to the width

required by the user. The construction of a roll-feed attachment which

may be mounted on any of the standard typewriters will be described.

[Illustration: A Paper-Roll Holder for Typewriters That can be Attached

to Any Standard Machine]

First make the two uprights. Both are cut from ¹⁄₆-in. sheet brass, as

shown. After cutting, heat the pieces to anneal them before bending. A

hole is provided for the paper-roll rod in the right-hand upright and a

slot in the left-hand one. A rod, threaded on one end and equipped with

two nuts, constitutes the paper holder. For a guide plate and cutter,

cut a piece of sheet brass, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide and of a length equal to

that of the carriage, as detailed in the drawing. Bend it as shown. A

¹⁄₈-in. slot is cut almost the entire length of the guide.

In mounting the holder on the typewriter, the uprights are drilled at

the base to engage the two small screws at the side of the carriage

back of the roller. The exact location of these holes will vary in

machines of the different makes. Next, the uprights are clamped into

place with the screws, one at each end of the carriage. Then determine

the distance between the arms of the uprights, drill a corresponding

hole at each end of the guide-and-cutter plate, and fasten the plate

to the uprights with small stove bolts. The roll of paper is placed on

the rod and fed between the machine platen and roller as with single

sheets. When the article or memorandum being written is finished, the

paper is held against the guide plate and the blade of a pocketknife

inserted in the slot. Passing the blade the length of the slot cuts off

the paper, or it may be torn off at the slot. The end of the paper roll

is again fed into the machine, ready for another operation.

Handy Paring Knife Made from Old Hacksaw Blade

[Illustration: A Serviceable Paring Knife Made from a Piece of Hacksaw

Blade, and Details of Its Construction: The Handle and Blade are Held

Together with a Rivet and a Lead Ferrule]

With a little work a hacksaw blade, or a portion of one, can be made

into a paring knife that will prove very durable because of the

excellent quality of the steel. Two pieces of hard wood should be cut

into the shapes shown and riveted together with one end of the blade

between them. After putting a paper mold about the end of the handle

from which the steel projects, melted lead is poured into it, to form

a collar that will hold the parts firmly together. The exposed part of

the saw can then be ground as desired.

Washing Machine Equipped with Churn Attachment

[Illustration: Without Impairing the Usefulness of this Washing Machine

a Plunger has been Attached to the Flywheel Which Does the Work of a

Churn, a Jar for the Cream being Installed as Shown]

The owner of a power-driven family washing machine has provided an

attachment for it with which he churns cream at a little additional

expenditure of energy. A wooden plunger was bolted to the outside of

the flywheel and its upper end placed between two rollers set in a

metal frame attached to the side of the tub. Enough play was allowed

between the rollers to permit the plunger to move up and down freely.

A framework large enough to hold a glass fruit jar was attached to

the side of the plunger, a thumbscrew being provided in its upper end

with which the jar is held firmly in place. As the flywheel revolves,

the movement of the plunger thoroughly agitates the contents of the

jar.--Dale R. Van Horn, North Loup, Neb.

Treating Closets with Cedar Oil

Apropos of the article in a recent issue of Popular Mechanics Magazine

entitled “A Cedar-Lined Oak Chest,” readers who desire the advantages

of a cedar-lined box or closet may accomplish it by the use of cedar

oil. Painting the interior of a box with this oil will to all intents

and purposes convert it into a cedar chest regardless of the kind of

wood used. The cost of the oil is not great. A closet treated in the

same manner will likewise keep out insects.--Robert E. M. Bain, St.

Louis, Mo.

Barnyard Gate is Operated with the Foot

[Illustration: This Gate is Unlatched by Operating the Foot Lever as

indicated. It Is a Special Convenience When One has Both Hands Occupied

Carrying Pails or Bundles]

A gate which can be unlatched with the foot has proven a great

convenience across a path on a farm where laborers frequently pass with

both hands occupied carrying pails. Pivoted to the side of the gate,

near its center, a beam, or foot lever, is hung in a vertical position,

extending almost to the ground and having a shelf bracket fastened

to its upper end. The horizontal arm of the bracket passes beneath a

porcelain knob projecting from a pivoted bar that engages the elbow

catch. By pushing the vertical beam to one side with the foot the bar

is raised above the catch, allowing the gate to swing open. If the gate

is properly hung it will close of itself, the elbow catch serving to

prevent its being opened again, except when the bar is raised.--T. C.

McDowell, Adrian, Michigan.

Improvised Post-Card Projector and Enlarging Camera

BY HARRY MARCELLE

An outfit which may be used for either projecting picture post cards

or enlarging photographic negatives was assembled as delineated in the

illustration. An ordinary camera, which provides the lens and bellows,

is required, in combination with a dark box which can be built in the

home workshop. The method of construction is this:

Make a box about 8 in. square out of ¹⁄₂-in. planed soft-wood stock.

Nail the sides, but omit, for the present, the top and the bottom. The

two openings thus left will be called the front and the back. Mount an

8 by 8 by ¹⁄₂-in. board, D, which constitutes a door, on the back with

hinges and provide a hook to hold it shut. Cut a square hole, of the

same size as that of the opening in the back of the camera which is to

be used, in another 8 by 8-in. piece, E. This will constitute the front

board. This front board is so cut that it fits in between the sides

of the box instead of on the ends, as does the back. In the top, cut

a square hole for ventilation. A hood is provided over this hole to

prevent light being thrown forward.

When using the arrangement as a projector or magic lantern two

40-watt tungsten lamps, A, are required. Each lamp is mounted in a

porcelain receptacle held on the floor with screws. A lamp cord, one

end connecting the two lamps in multiple and the other fitted with an

attachment plug, passes through a hole in the floor of the box. Form

the two reflectors, B, of 8 by 7-in. bright tinned sheet-iron pieces,

each having holes along one of its edges to admit of attachment. The

reflectors are bent to a semicircular contour before mounting. The card

holder is detailed at C. It is a piece of tinned sheet iron bent to

the form shown so that it will hold a post card. A hole is drilled in

its center for a screw pivot. It can then be fastened to the center of

the back door and can be turned into position for either horizontal or

vertical pictures. A washer is inserted on the screw between the holder

and the door. The thickness of the camera body having been determined,

a slide is fastened to the front board, as diagrammed, to support this

body.

[Illustration: An Ordinary Small Camera, Fitted with This Attachment,

Becomes an Enlarging and Post-Card Projecting Camera]

Before it can be used as a projector it must be adjusted to operate

with the camera of the type and size available. The adjustment, which

must be made in a darkened room, having on one of its walls a white

screen on which the image will be projected, is effected thus: Remove

the back from the camera and place the camera in the slide without

extending the bellows. Open the shutter. Insert a card in the holder

C. Light the tungsten lamps. Now move the front board, with the camera

carried on it, back and forth within the box until the components

are in focus, that is, until the most distinct image obtainable is

reproduced on the screen. Then, illuminate the previously darkened

room and nail the front board in the position thus determined. These

adjustments having been made, paint the box, inside and out, a coat of

dead black. Everything should be painted black except the reflecting

surfaces of the tin reflectors and the incandescent-lamp bulbs. The

front board having been fastened, subsequent focusing can be effected

by shifting longitudinally the lens board of the camera. The image of

any sort of a picture that will fit in the holder can be reproduced.

Colored post cards will project in their natural tints.

To make enlargements with the same box, a few minor changes are

necessary. When employed for enlargements the tungsten lamps, which

are required for projection, are not used. They may, however, remain

in the box and can be disconnected from circuit by unscrewing them a

few turns. The negative, or film, which is to be enlarged, is held in

the opening E. Where a film is to be reproduced, it is held between two

pieces of glass which are fastened to the inside of the front board

with small clips. If a glass negative is used, the two additional glass

plates are unnecessary. If the negative does not fill the opening in

the camera, a mask cut from heavy black paper will be required to cut

off the light.

The light for the enlargement is furnished by another tungsten lamp

mounted in a porcelain receptacle which is screwed to a board which

constitutes a base. This light source is moved about in the house

until it is directly back of the opening E in the front of the box

and until the light is distributed equally over the entire negative.

To focus, move the camera backward or forward. While focusing, use a

yellow glass, or ray screen, to cover the lens. When focusing has been

completed, the shutter is closed and the ray screen removed. Then stop

down the lens to bring out detail, and expose.

Changing a Motor-Car Tire without a Jack

[Illustration]

It occasionally happens that a motorist fails to have a jack at

hand when a tire needs to be changed on the road. The situation is

easily met with the aid of a strong board and a couple of blocks or

rocks. Driving the desired wheel onto the incline, provided in the

manner illustrated, and setting the brakes, a block is placed beneath

the axle. The board is then knocked out of the way.--John Peters,

Milwaukee, Wis.

Roller Truck for Use in Scrubbing

A little padded platform on wheels takes most of the drudgery away

from scrubbing in hotels and office buildings. The platform carries

the pail as well as the scrubber, and enables the scrubber to keep

dry.--Florence L. Clark, McGregor, Ia.

Economical Use of Wood Alcohol in Small Cooking Stove

A couple eating breakfast and supper in their room used a chafing

dish for cooking. A hard alcohol was used for fuel, and the expense

seemed too high. So a fuel can was filled with pulverized asbestos pipe

covering, and then saturated with wood alcohol. A quart of alcohol

lasted about a month.--Charles A. King, Plymouth, N. H.

Attractive Table Stands for Hot Dishes

[Illustration]

Attractive stands which will preserve the dining table from injuries,

or heat marks made by hot dishes, can be easily made from thin pieces

of board cut oblong or oval. After the board has been cut the proper

size, cleats are fastened to the underside to which billiard-cue tips

are attached to serve as supports. The stand should be varnished and

waxed to match the table.--George L. Furse, St. Louis, Mo.

Cord Used as Spacer for Curtain Rings

To make the curtain rings space automatically along the curtain pole,

tie a cord from one ring to the next, spacing the rings uniformly. Or

the cord may be attached at uniform distances to the curtain. A pull at

the edge of the curtain will space the rings evenly every time.--Frank

L. Matter, Portland, Ore.

Device for Packing Earth in Transplanting

[Illustration]

When tomato or cabbage plants are to be set out in considerable

numbers, the simple implement shown here makes stooping over to press

the dirt about the plants unnecessary. After a row of plants has been

set in dibble holes and watered, the soil can be packed about their

roots quickly while one is standing upright. The jaws of the device are

actuated by means of the hinged lever.--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont.

Cleat and Pulley Fastenings to Adjust Clothesline

The following kink will relieve the housewife of the trouble of sagging

clotheslines, and hubby of constantly being asked to tighten up the

line. The cost should not be over 25 cents, as all that is needed is a

pulley cleat and hook, all of which may be had at any ten-cent store.

When the line gets slack, it is pulled tight through the pulley and

tightened up in the cleat.--S. H. Johnson, Westville, Conn.

Convenient Type of Mail Box for Home Use

[Illustration: The Mail Box is Lengthened So That It Reaches through

the Wall to the Inside, Where a Door is Placed through Which the Mail

can be Removed]

A person having a mail box set flush in the outside wall of his home

can, with a little alteration, make it accessible from inside the

house: After removing the back side of the box a tin extension should

be soldered to the box giving it sufficient length to reach through the

wall in which an opening of the proper size has been cut. The enlarged

container is completed by adding a glass door to the inner end which

enables one to ascertain its contents at a glance.--A. Pertle, Chicago,

Ills.

Block Plane Converted for Use on Circular Work

[Illustration]

Few amateur craftsmen can afford to own a circular plane, yet this tool

is decidedly necessary for such round work as table tops, half-round

shelves, segments, and the like. Any ordinary block plane will

accomplish such work if equipped as illustrated. A piece of half-round

hard wood is cut the width of the plane and attached with countersunk

machine screws, as indicated. The block elevates the rear end of the

plane, causing it to follow the curve of the work on which it is used.

Pressure Spray Made of Old Oilcan

[Illustration: Old Material Makes a Spray That Is as Good as the

Manufactured Product, at Less Cost]

In making a spraying outfit for garden use, or similar purposes, a 3

or 5-gal. kerosene can and tire pump may be satisfactorily employed.

The latter is attached rigidly at the rear of the container with iron

straps, as shown. A ball check valve is fitted in the top of the

receptacle and connection is made between it and the pump with the pump

hose. A 6-ft. length of ¹⁄₄-in. rubber tubing is wired to the drain

cock. An 8-in. piece of ¹⁄₄-in. brass pipe is filed down and wired in

the spray end of the hose to serve as a nozzle.--P. P. Avery, Garfield,

N. J.

Keeping Tools Bright and Free from Rust

Bright-finished tools can be preserved against rust by coating with

linseed oil, and allowing the oil to dry as a film. If more body is

desired, oxide of iron, very finely powdered, should be mixed with the

oil. Another antirust coating is made by dissolving ¹⁄₂ oz. camphor in

1 lb. melted lard. The mixture is skimmed, and fine graphite added to

make an iron color. Clean the tools and smear with this mixture. Let

the tools stand 24 hours, and rub clean with soft cloth.

A good method of removing rust is to cover the metal parts with sweet

oil, rubbing it in well. Let stand 48 hours; then rub with finely

powdered, unslaked lime. Next immerse the article for a few seconds in

a solution of ¹⁄₂ oz. potassium cyanide in a wine glass of water. Then

clean with a paste of potassium cyanide, castile soap, whiting, and

water, using a toothbrush. Potassium cyanide is a strong poison, and

should be used carefully.--E. Standiford, Youngstown, Ohio.

Repairing Leaks in Pipes

Frequently a cast or malleable-iron pipe fitting will leak through

its side, the water oozing, drop by drop, from a pinhole--ordinarily

due to a sand hole in the casting. Sometimes the leak can be stopped

by hammering the affected spot with the ball end of a hammer. If this

fails, it is necessary to replace the fitting. Where the leak is around

a thread, screwing the pipe or fitting tighter constitutes the only,

and usually effective, corrective.--L. A. Merton, St. Louis, Mo.

Corn Popper Made from Coffee Can and Broom Handle

[Illustration: A Corn Popper Made from a Coffee Can, or Similar Tin

Receptacle, and a Piece of a Broom Handle]

With an old coffee can, or similar tin receptacle, and a piece of a

broom handle, 2¹⁄₂ or 3 ft. long, it is easy to make a corn popper

that is preferable in many ways to a wire one. Take a strip of wood a

little shorter than the height of the can to be used, and after boring

two holes in it to prevent its splitting, nail it to the end of the

handle. The latter is then fastened to the side of the can with two

wire staples, as shown. Holes are made in the can top to admit air to

the corn while it is popping.--James Crouse, Dixon, Ky.

An Easily Constructed Ball-Bearing Anemometer

BY THOMAS A. REYNOLDS

An anemometer is an instrument which measures the velocity of the

wind. The anemometers used by the weather bureau consist of four

hemispherical cups mounted on the ends of two horizontal rods which

cross at right angles and are supported on a freely turning vertical

axle. Since the concave sides of the cups offer more resistance to

the wind than do the convex sides the device is caused to revolve at

a speed which is proportional, approximately, to that of the wind.

The axle, to which the rotary motion is transmitted from the cups,

is connected to a dial mounted at the foot of the supporting column.

This dial records automatically the rotations. The reproduction of

such a registering mechanism would be rather complicated. Hence, in

the arrangement to be described none will be employed. Therefore, one

of these improvised anemometers, when mounted on a high building,

will indicate by the changing rapidity of its revolutions only the

comparative, not the real, velocity of the wind.

[Illustration: This Anemometer is Made from Galvanized Sheet Iron, a

Bicycle Hub, and a Few Iron Straps. Practice in Observing Its Motion

will Enable One to Estimate Fairly Closely the Wind’s Velocity]

In constructing the instrument, straight, dished vanes will be used

instead of hollow cups. The vanes operate almost as effectively and

may be combined more readily into a sturdy rotating unit. A bicycle

front hub is utilized to constitute a wear- and noise-proof bearing

having minimum friction. Each of the four wings is formed from a piece

of galvanized iron, measuring 4¹⁄₂ by 10 in., which has one end cut

to a curve as shown. To each wing is fastened, with tinners’ rivets,

a 4-in. length of ³⁄₄ by ¹⁄₁₆-in. strap iron. Form each of the strips

into a trough-shaped vane, measuring 2¹⁄₄ in. from edge to edge--this

being the distance between the spoke flanges of a bicycle hub. Some

cylindrical object of suitable diameter will serve as a form for

bending. Place the ends of the support strips between the spoke flanges

and rivet them securely. The rivets pass through the spoke holes. Some

trying out may be required to insure a symmetrical arrangement of the

parts. Solder the curved end of each wing to the inner surface of the

adjacent wing. Place a tin cap--a salve-box lid will do--under the

upper locknut on the hub to exclude rain from the bearing.

The supporting upright may be a heavy wooden rod, or a piece of iron

pipe. A yoke of 1 by ¹⁄₈-in. strap iron, held to the top of the upright

with screws, is provided for the attachment of the hub. The locknut

on the hub clamps it to the yoke. Apply a coat of metal paint to the

iron parts which are exposed. Mount the device sufficiently high to

give the wind free access to it from all directions. The curve at one

end of each wing is an irregular one. Hence, its accurate construction

involves a knowledge of sheet-metal pattern drawing. However, if it is

made of a form similar to that shown it will fit sufficiently well to

permit a good soldered joint.

* * * * *

¶Boards exposed to the weather should be laid with the heart side

down, as determined by examining the end grain.

[Illustration: FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 1

Sharpened Poles, Two Feet Long, are Used with This Pile Driver in

Building Foundations, Wharves, and Other Structures of Piling. The

Details of the Headblock and the Nipper Device are Shown in Figs. 2 and

3]

[Illustration: A Small Working Pile Driver

BY EDWARD A. KRUEGER]

[These directions will enable boys of varying skill with tools

to make a pile driver, as a toy or model. Several simple methods

of making the parts in the home workshop, with materials easily

obtainable, are suggested.--Editor.]

The construction of small docks, wharves, piers, and foundations or

bridges, buildings, and other structures, by the driving of piling is

interesting out-of-door play, in which boys will find much fun. A pile

driver for this work is shown in the page plate, Fig. 1. The hammer

is raised by means of a winch, and is dropped automatically when it

reaches the cap of the derrick, as indicated in Fig. 3. The drum is

then released, and the weighted double-hook nipper drops down, picking

up the hammer on the next upstroke. A single-hook nipper, that can

be made easily of wire, is also shown in the detail sketch, Fig. 6.

The small boy who cannot make the nippers or the winch, may tie the

rope directly to the hammer, drawing it up by hand, and dropping it

as desired. The hammer need not be fitted to the guides, but merely

arranged to drop between them, and the derrick can be made of only

a few main pieces. The larger parts of the hammer and nipper weight

are best made of lead, babbitt, or white metal, as these may be cut

or melted readily. Iron, brass, or copper, solid or in plates, may be

used, if means for shaping them are at hand.

The making of the derrick may be undertaken first. Make two pieces

for the bed A, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 17 in.; two hammer guides B, ⁷⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈

by 33¹⁄₈ in.; one bed piece, C, ³⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 20 in.; two bed pieces,

D, ³⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈ by 5¹⁄₄ in.; two posts, E, ¹⁄₂ by ¹⁄₂ by 34¹⁄₂ in.; two

braces, F, ³⁄₈ by ³⁄₄ by 26¹⁄₂ in. Cut these pieces slightly over their

finished lengths as given, allowing for trimming and fitting. Make

strips, ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in., for the bracing on the sides of the derrick and

the ladder bracing on the back.

Notch the lower ends of guides B, ¹⁄₈ by ⁷⁄₈. and the lower ends of

posts E, on an angle, ¹⁄₈ in. deep, to fit pieces A. Join the parts of

the bed, as shown in the page plate, pieces A being set 3¹⁄₂ in. apart,

fastening them with bolts or screws. Make braces G, of sheet metal, and

bolt them in place. Fit the posts E into place, and fasten them at the

bed and the top. Put on several ladder braces temporarily, to steady

the frame. Fit the braces F carefully, and bolt them in place. Remove

the piece C and the braces F, and nail the horizontal bracing to the

sides of the frame. Then fit and nail the diagonal braces. The bolted

construction is convenient in “knocking down” the derrick for storing

it. Reassemble the parts, and make the cap for the headblock.

The headblock and cap are shown in detail in Figs. 2 and 3. Make two

pieces, H, ¹⁄₄ by 1⁵⁄₁₆ by 1³⁄₄ in.; one piece, J, ¹⁄₄ by 1 by 1³⁄₁₆

in.; two braces, K, ¹⁄₄ by 1¹³⁄₃₂ by 1³⁄₄ in. Make the two beveled

pieces of the cap ⁷⁄₈ by 1³⁄₄ by 1¹⁄₂ in., and provide a wooden strip

or metal plate for the front and rear edges, as shown. Fasten strips of

sheet metal to the bevel of the notch, to protect it from wear by the

striking of the nipper hooks. Make the sheave 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter and

³⁄₈ in. thick, with a groove for the rope. Assemble the parts, as shown.

The details of the winch are shown in Figs. 4 and 5, and the method of

assembling the parts, in Fig. 1. The drum may also be driven without

gears by fixing the crank directly to the shaft. Gears may be obtained

from old machines, or purchased from dealers in model supplies. Make

the supports L and M, Fig. 4, ³⁄₄ by 4 by 6⁵⁄₈ in., cutting patterns of

paper, if desired.

[Illustration: FIG. 4

The Supports of the Winch are Made of ³⁄₄-Inch Wood, Bolted to the Bed]

The gear, Fig. 5, is 3¹⁄₂ and the pinion ³⁄₄ in. in diameter. The drum

is of wood, 2 in. in diameter and 3⁵⁄₁₆ in. long. Its ends are 3¹⁄₂-in.

metal disks, fastened with screws. The shaft is a ³⁄₈-in. bolt, 5³⁄₈

in. long, and bears in holes bored in the supports, as shown in the

details of these parts. The crank N, Fig. 5, is made of a ³⁄₁₆-in. rod,

bent as shown, and fitted with a washer to fit next to the pinion.

The gear is set by means of the pawl O, which is bent from a strip

of ¹⁄₁₆-in. sheet metal. The brace P is bent from a ¹⁄₁₆ by ³⁄₄ by

1⁵⁄₈-in. strip of sheet metal, and riveted to the pawl. Assemble the

parts, fastening the gear to the drum end, and bolt the supports into

place. Put the pinion into mesh with the gear at its proper place, and

carefully mark the hole for the crank. Square the end of the crank and

the hole in the pinion, and fit them to a driving fit. Fix the rope

to the drum, and reeve it through the head block. The derrick is then

ready for the hammer and the weighted nipper.

[Illustration: FIG. 5

Details of the Drum, Its Driving Mechanism, and Fittings]

The hammer, shown in Fig. 6, may be made easily from a solid block

of lead, 1¹⁄₄ by 2⁵⁄₈ by 2⁵⁄₈ in. Cut ³⁄₁₆ by ⁷⁄₈-in. grooves in the

vertical edges to fit the guides. Make the circular ³⁄₁₆ by 1⁵⁄₈-in.

hammer plate Q of iron or brass, and fasten it with screws. Rivet the

wire lifting strap R, as shown.

[Illustration: FIG. 6

A Simple Method of Making the Tripping Device, and Details of the

Hammer]

The single-hook nipper, shown in Fig. 6, is made as follows: Flatten a

piece of ³⁄₁₆-in. wire at the middle, and drill a ³⁄₃₂-in. hole for the

bolt. Shape the lower end into a pointed hook, and bend the upper end

to form the trip arm. This strikes the notch in the cap of the derrick,

releasing the hammer. The rope is wired to the hook as shown. The

nipper weight is made of a solid piece of lead, 1¹⁄₄ by 2⁵⁄₈ in., by

1 in. high, grooved at the ends to fit the guides. Cut a slot through

it, for the hook, as shown in Fig. 6, and bolt the latter into place.

The double-hook nipper is better mechanically, and may be made of two

pieces of wire, or cut from sheet metal.

Test the action of the nippers, and bend or file the hooks to operate

properly. The pile driver may then be painted, and work on “jobs”

begun. If it is used at the water, fix metal guards at the lower ends

of the guides, to prevent the hammer from falling into the water.

Split Needle Causes Echo on Talking Machine

An amusing stunt is to split the end of a fiber talking-machine needle

carefully about ¹⁄₄ in., so as to make two points, slightly separated.

The needle is then placed on the machine, preferably on an old record,

so that the points play the record successively, producing an echo. If

the work is carefully done, and the points are separated slightly, both

reproductions will be fairly clear.--Frank Murphy, Faribault, Minn.

Weighting a Metal Base

[Illustration: Molten Lead as Poured In around Screws Fastened to the

Base]

Having to weight a shallow metal base to support a 4-ft. brass tube, I

found that the easiest way was to fasten four screws on the base with

nuts, as shown in the illustration, and pour in lead. The screws were

taken out in polishing the base.--James M. Kane, Doylestown, Pa.

* * * * *

¶In toasting bread over a camp fire, it is best to cover the fire

with a tin pan.

Trunk Bookcase for Convenient Shipment

[Illustration: A Small Library may be Shipped Handily in This Bookcase]

Mechanics, engineers, and other persons are sometimes engaged in work

which keeps them at the same locality only a few months. Those who

desire to carry with them a small library will find the trunk bookcase,

as shown, convenient. It may be shipped as a trunk, and used as a

bookcase in one’s hotel or dwelling. Other articles than books may be

packed in it. The outside dimensions when closed are 31 by 18 by 18

in., providing for three shelves. It may be made of ³⁄₄-in. pine or

whitewood, and stained, or covered with impregnated canvas. The outer

corners are reinforced with metal corner plates, and suitable hardware

is provided.--Lloyd C. Eddy, Jr., Buffalo, N. Y.

Bottle Carrier Made of Pipe Straps

Two metal pipe straps, fitted around the neck of a bottle and bolted

together, form a convenient method of attaching a carrying handle to a

large bottle. The handle proper is made by fixing a grip in a bail of

wire similar to that on a bucket.

A Developing or Etching-Tray Rocker

[Illustration]

An appliance that saves time for the worker in a photographic dark room

is a tray rocker, made as follows: Fasten a bracket of strap iron,

into which are riveted the pointed ends of two spikes, to the under

side of a board, as shown in the detail sketch. Support this further

with a double angle fastened at the end of the board. Fix a small can,

weighted with lead, on the end of an iron rod, adjusted to a suitable

curve, and fasten the rod to the bracket. The weighted end should

extend under the edge of the table, as shown, and be balanced so that

it will rock the board and tray without tipping the latter toward the

bracket. The nails pivot on metal pieces, to protect the table top.--L.

L. Llewellyn, Piedmont, Calif.

Combination Laundry Tub and Dishwashing Sink

[Illustration]

A saving of space and time was effected in a home kitchen by the use

of a sink developed in a large kitchen. Two ordinary laundry tubs were

installed with the faucets raised above the tubs, as shown. A sink of

sheet zinc was fitted in the upper part of one tub; it has handles,

and a strainer set in the bottom. The strainer is closed by a rubber

stopper, and the sink becomes a dishpan. The sink is easily lifted

out for cleaning, or for washing clothes. Another use for the sink,

between meals, is for washing and preparing vegetables and fruits. The

second tub has a wire dish-draining rack, in which the china is rinsed

and sterilized by hot water from the faucet.--Mrs. Avis Gordon Vestal,

Chicago, Ill.

A Leather and Silk Bookmark

[Illustration:

A Jolly Good Book

Wherein To Look

Is Better To Me

Than Gold]

An artistic and useful bookmark was made from a silk ribbon passed

through a buckle of leather, tooled with an inscription and a

conventional design. Ribbon of various sizes may be used, and the

leather left plain if desired. The ends of the ribbon are fringed, as

shown. Monograms make interesting and individual decorations for the

leather portion.--Will Chapel, Manchester, Ia.

Emergency Oarlock of Rope

An oarlock that will give considerable service may be made by fixing a

loop of rope to the gunwale of a boat at the proper position. This kink

is useful in an emergency, such as when an oarlock is dropped overboard.

Planing Thin Sticks Held in Flooring Groove

Boys who make thin sticks for arrows, kites, etc., as well as the

mechanic, can make good use of the following suggestion: The difficulty

of handling thin strips while planing them may be overcome by setting

the strip in the groove of a piece of flooring, clamped in a vise. A

peg or nail is driven into the groove and acts as a stop for the end of

the strip.

[Illustration: A Submarine Camera

by Charles I. Reid]

Submarine photography should have great attractions for amateur

photographers who have access to lakes, ponds, and other clear waters.

While more careful work is demanded than in ordinary photography, the

method of obtaining good results is not difficult, and the necessary

equipment may be provided by constructing the device shown in the

illustration. Submarine pictures can be taken in a considerable depth

of water, providing it is reasonably free from foreign matter. This is

a fascinating field of photography, and many pictures of educational

and scientific value remain to be made of under-water life. The

illustration shows the detailed construction of the camera chamber, and

the method of suspending it from a bridge, or other place convenient to

the body of water. Reproduced in the oval panel is a photograph of fish

near baited hooks, on a fishline. The original was made from a negative

exposed by the use of the camera chamber described.

The problem of making photographic exposures under water involves

the provision of a strong water and pressure-proof container for the

camera, a means for controlling the shutter, and a suitable opening in

the container through which the exposures may be made. The arrangement

described combines these features in a simple manner, and by the use

of materials that can be obtained without difficulty. It was made for

a camera taking 4 by 5-in. pictures, and the dimensions given are for

a container for this size. The dimensions may be varied to adapt the

device to various cameras, within reasonable limits. A 9-in. steel pipe

was used for the chamber, and its ends were fitted with pipe caps.

A heavy piece of plate glass was fitted into the forward cap, which

was cut into the shape of a ring, to provide the exposure opening.

The general arrangement of the camera in the chamber is shown in the

sectional view, Fig. 1, as seen from the shutter end. The electrical

device, by which the shutter is controlled, is shown in this view, and

in Fig. 2 it is shown in detail.

The chamber was made as follows: A section of 9-in. steel pipe was cut

to a length of 11¹⁄₂ in. and threaded on the ends to fit pipe caps.

The forward pipe cap was chucked up in a lathe and the center portion

cut away, to provide an exposure opening and a shoulder at the rim,

on which the plate-glass window rests. A graphite paint was applied

to the rim, then the glass was bedded solidly in it, and a rubber

gasket was fitted to the joint, making it waterproof when the cap was

drawn up tightly. The chamber assembled and in detail is shown in the

illustration.

Holes were bored into the top of the chamber, and eyebolts were

fitted into them. Between the eyebolts a hole was bored and fitted

with a water-tight collar, through which the wires leading to the

shutter-control device pass. The chamber is supported by the wires,

which are fixed to the eyebolts and secured at the base of operations

by the photographer.

A support for the camera was provided by bending a strip of ¹⁄₈ by

1-in. band iron to the shape indicated in Fig. 1, at A, and riveting

it to the bottom of the chamber. Its upper surface is flat and was

bored and threaded to fit the tripod thumbscrew B, on the lower surface

of the camera. The camera is arranged on the support and clamped

into place firmly by the thumb nut, as it might be on a tripod. The

adjustment of the camera in the chamber is done from the rear, and the

space beneath the thumbscrew should be large enough to make access

easy. A camera of the size indicated, when fitted with its lens

centering on the center of the window, will be raised sufficiently

for convenience in clamping it. The threads on the back cap must fit

snugly and no paint must be used on them. Hard oil, or vaseline, may be

applied to insure a water-tight joint that permits easy removal of the

cap.

The making and adjustment of the electrical shutter device requires

care, but its operation is simple. An electromagnet, of the type used

on doorbells, was fixed to the front of the camera, above the shutter,

as shown in Fig. 1, and in detail in Fig. 2. It is actuated by current

from two dry cells. The latter are kept in a convenient carrier at the

base of operations, and are connected to the magnet by a single strand

of double, waterproof wire. This is spread as it reaches the chamber

and fastened to the two eyebolts in the top. The ends of the wires are

conducted through the water-tight center opening between the eyebolts,

and attached to the magnet. The release lever is fitted to a steel

hook, pivoted at its upper end with a small nail, C, Fig. 2. A rubber

band is fixed to the lower edge of the shutter lever and its other end

is attached to the front of the camera. When the current is permitted

to flow into the magnet by pressing a contact key, in the hand of the

operator, the steel hook is drawn from the release lever, and the

rubber band draws the lever down, making an exposure.