Fitting a Motor into a Paddling Canoe]
A stanchly built canoe of sufficient length and beam may be converted
into a light, serviceable, and convenient power boat by the
installation of a light-weight motor of about 2 hp. While the craft
thus becomes less available for shallow waters and cannot be used
so readily on trips where portages are necessary, a power canoe has
advantages in that longer trips may be undertaken with less regard for
weather conditions. Greater speed and the fact that physical power need
not be expended also increase the value and range of operations of such
a craft.
Unless a motor of extremely light weight is procured, a canoe of frail
construction and less than 16 ft. long is not likely to stand the jar
of the driving mechanism. The canoe illustrated in the page plate is 18
ft. long, of 36-in. beam, and strongly planked, decked, and braced. A
canoe of even broader beam would tend to give more stability in rough
water, and if it is desired to transport heavy camping packs, or other
material, in the craft, this factor should be observed particularly.
Likewise, the depth and draft must be considered, as the carrying
capacity and seaworthiness of a canoe depend in part on these factors.
The fitting of the various parts of the mechanism and accessories
must be done with the aim of balancing the load evenly. If properly
disposed, the weight of these parts should tend to lower the center of
gravity of the canoe, thus rendering it more stable.
The actual work of installing the motor and fittings should be preceded
by careful planning and the making of a full-size diagram of the stern
portion of the canoe as rebuilt. Too much care cannot be taken in this
work, as, if it is neglected, the craft may be rendered unsafe, or the
motor and fittings may not operate satisfactorily. The motor should be
set in the stern, as shown in the illustration, as this will permit
the use of a minimum of shafting and other fittings which must be
accommodated. The exact location of the motor may vary with canoes and
engines of different types. This should be tested out by placing the
motor in the canoe and noting the effect on its balance in the water.
For a canoe of the dimensions indicated, and a light-weight motor, 5
ft. from the stern is a satisfactory position. The motor should be
placed as low in the canoe as possible, allowing the flywheel and crank
case sufficient clearance below.
A convenient method of operation is as follows: Place the canoe on
boxes, or sawhorses, taking care that it is properly supported about
2 ft. from the ground, or floor. Take measurements directly from the
canoe, or part to be fitted, whenever convenient. Procure two sheets
of paper, 30 in. wide and 7 ft. long; mark one “diagram” and the other
“templates,” and use the former for the full-size detail and the other
for the making of templates for curved or irregular parts.
Begin the diagram by drawing the base line AB, Fig. 3. This is the
lower line of the engine bed and the upper surface of the ribs. Draw
the line CD perpendicular to the base line, and 18 in. from the left
end of the sheet. The point C is the center of the stern end of the
driving shaft. The dimensions of parts are not given, except in special
instances, since they must be obtained from the particular canoe and
other parts entering into the construction. Indicate the layer of
ribs E, the planking F, and the keel G. Using the template sheet, cut
a template or pattern for the curved stern. This may be readily and
accurately done by fixing a straightedge to the keel and permitting it
to extend to A. Rest the long edge of the sheet on the straightedge
when fitting the template to the curve. Use the template as a guide in
marking the curve on the diagram, as at HJ. The curve K, of the stern
decking, may be indicated similarly.
Determine the distance the motor is to be set from the stern and
indicate it by the perpendicular line L. Measuring from the base line,
indicate the height of the center of the motor shaft from the floor,
as at M. This should be made as low as possible, permitting sufficient
clearance for the flywheel and the crank case. Draw a straight line
from C to M, which will thus indicate the center line of the driving
shaft. This line is fundamental in determining the dimensions and
placing of certain parts and fittings, and should be established with
extreme care. The size and exact position of the engine bed N may
now be indicated. Its dimensions, given in detail in the perspective
sketch, Fig. 5, are suggestive only. They may be varied in order to
provide proper bearing on the floor, and so that the bolts holding
the bed may pass through ribs. The cross brace at the forward end is
important, and should be fitted carefully over a rib. The upper line
of the engine bed must not be confounded with the center line of the
shaft, for in many engines they are on a horizontal line when viewed
from the forward end, yet not necessarily so. The slant of the engine
bed must be made accurately, as any deflection from the angle of the
center line of the shaft will disarrange the installation.
The shaft log O may next be indicated and a template made for use in
guiding the bit when boring the hole for the shaft through it. The
template used for the curve HJ may be altered by drawing the shaft log
on it at the proper place. The point P, from which the bit is to be
started when the shaft log is fixed into place, should be indicated and
the center line of the shaft extended to Q, may then be used as a guide
for the bit. If the homemade type of bearing R is used, it should be
indicated on the diagram. A metal bearing may be made, or a suitable
one obtained from dealers in marine hardware. In the latter case it
will probably be necessary to block up the bottom of the canoe in order
to provide a flat, horizontal bearing surface for the bearing flange.
The rudder and other parts, which are not directly connected with the
motive-power unit, may be indicated in detail on the diagram or be
made from sketches of a smaller scale. Paper patterns, made full size,
offer a convenient method of outlining the parts of the engine bed,
the rudder, and other irregular pieces. When the diagram is complete,
measurements may be transferred directly from it without reducing them
to figures, and, wherever possible, parts should be fitted to it.
The shaft log, shaft bearing, and engine bed may be made of oak, or
other strong hard wood. It will be found desirable to have the engine
bed complete before an attempt is made to fit the shaft and its
connections. It is made of 1¹⁄₂-in. stock, bolted together with lag
screws and fixed firmly into the canoe with bolts. The heads of the
bolts should be provided with cotton and red-lead packing, and care
should be taken that the bolts pass through ribs.
The shaft log should be fixed into place before it is bored. Bolts
may be passed through it and fastened on the inside if there is room
for drawing up the nuts in the stern. Large screws may be used to aid
in the fastening and smaller screws may be used from the inside. The
lower rudder support will also aid in holding the log in place, and the
iron straps S, Fig. 3, will insure its rigidity. This is an important
point in the construction, as if the log is not fixed positively, the
thrashing of the propeller will soon loosen it.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
FIG. 4
FIG. 5
A Light-Weight, Two-Horsepower Motor Installed in a Stanch 18-Foot
Canoe will Increase the Range and Utility of Such a Craft; the
Construction Shown Is Simple and within the Capabilities of a Careful
Novice of Fair Mechanical Skill. A View of the Stern from Above is
Shown in Fig. 1. The Engine is Shown Mounted on the Engine Bed,
and near the Stern the Shaft Block is Shown. A Partial Sectional
View is Shown in Fig. 2. The Relation of the Engine and Bed, Shaft
and Fittings, Shaft Block, Shaft Log, and Rudder are Shown. The
Construction Diagram, Fig. 3, is Described in Detail in the Text. A
Larger-Scale View and a Section of the Shaft Block are Indicated in
Fig. 4, and Fig. 5 Illustrates the Engine Bed with Dimensions and
Fastening Holes]
A detail of the shaft bearing R is shown in Fig. 4. The hole to receive
the shaft must be bored accurately, and the use of the template, as
with the boring of the shaft log, is advisable. Flanged metal bearings
are provided to take up the wear in the bearing block. The method of
fastening the block, as shown in the detail view, insures a rigid
bearing with a minimum of holes through the bottom of the canoe. A
U-bolt, T, binds the double angle brace U and the block firmly to the
keel. The angles of the brace are fixed into the sides of the canoe
with bolts, and a bolt at the stern end of the block supports it
further. The block should be placed so that it will bear on three ribs
and must be fitted to the curve of the canoe.
The rudder is made of sheet metal supported on a rod or pipe. Its
general dimensions are shown in Fig. 2. The fan of the rudder is
riveted to its supports and rests in a bearing strip of ¹⁄₄ by 1-in.
strap iron, which is shaped as a guard for the propeller. The upper
bearing of the rudder post is formed from a strip of iron, bolted to
the stern, and the upper guide bar, to which the ropes are attached, is
cut from an iron strip.
The propeller is 8 in. in diameter, but may be installed of a size
suitable to the power, speed, and type of the motor used. The stuffing
box V, Fig. 2, the bearings for the bearing block R, the intake
strainer W, the exhaust outlet X, Fig. 1, and the shaft coupling Y are
all of manufactured types that may be purchased of marine-supply houses.
The intake strainer W is placed in the bottom directly below the pump
Z. The exhaust outlet X is placed above the water line, and a muffler
should be installed to avoid noise from the exhaust explosions. The
exhaust may be conducted under water or to a point near the stern. No
indication is given for the placing of the gasoline tank, the supply
pipes, electrical-energy source, and wiring. The tank may be placed in
the stern of the canoe high enough to provide a good flow. A magneto
may be used to give current for the sparking circuit, or batteries may
be provided. They may be placed at any point convenient, and should be
incased in a waterproof container.
In assembling the parts care must be taken not to wrench the shaft
or other pieces out of line, and in general, it is well to fix
nonadjustable parts solidly when they are fitted into place. This
applies particularly to the engine bed and the shaft log. The bearing
block may be adjusted vertically by adding packing, or by reducing
the lower surface. The rudder and its fittings may be made in regular
course, but should not be fitted until the power unit and driving
mechanism is in place finally. The propeller may be protected from
possible injury by laying it aside until needed. All the openings in
the hull through which bolts or other fastenings are placed should be
packed with red lead or other waterproof packing. The working parts
and finished metal surfaces should be oiled or greased thoroughly as
the parts are assembled, and the unfinished metal parts painted with
red lead. This will protect them from moisture and aid in the smooth
operation of the mechanism.
How to Make a Fluorescent Screen
Many experimenters have occasion to use a fluorescent screen,
particularly those interested in X-ray work. Such a device is quite
expensive if purchased, and may be made as follows:
Mix 1 oz. each of common salt, sodium tungstate, and calcium chloride.
Place the mixture in a crucible and heat it dull red in a coal fire,
for several hours. It will melt into a clear liquid, and should then
be removed and permitted to cool. The liquid will crystallize into a
hard glasslike mass. Break this out of the crucible and crush it into
small pieces. Put them into a jar of clear water. The sodium chloride
resulting from the chemical change by heating, will gradually dissolve
and the calcium tungstate will fall to the bottom in fine crystals.
Wash this precipitate until all trace of the salt disappears; then pour
the crystals upon a sheet of filter or blotting paper to dry. After
drying, place them in a mortar and grind them to a fine powder, when
they will be ready for use.
To make the screen proper, procure a piece of thin white cardboard
of the size desired. The calendered board known as three-ply is
satisfactory. Paint the cardboard on one side with a thick solution
of gum arabic in water, or better still, with celluloid dissolved in
amyl acetate. Permit the gum to become “tacky” before dusting with the
chemical. The latter process requires care, to produce an even layer
on the cardboard, and it is advisable to practice with ordinary salt
before attempting it on the cardboard for the screen. The calcium
tungstate should be placed in a dry jar, and a piece of fine muslin
fixed over the mouth of it. The chemical may be dusted over the surface
with this sieve jar.
Shake off the superfluous crystals and permit the screen to dry
thoroughly. Fasten a piece of mica, or sheet celluloid, over the
sensitized surface to prevent damage to it. Mount the sensitized
cardboard in a wooden frame of suitable size and arrange a hood around
its edges to cut out unnecessary light. The sensitive side of the
screen is, of course, held toward the observer when the apparatus is
used.--Contributed by Chester Keene, Hoboken, N. J.
Preventing Wire Mesh from Rising between Fence Posts
Fences which inclose pastures for hogs, or other smaller animals, are
usually stretched to give rigidity and strength. Often the adjustment
of the wire, after being put into place, causes it to rise from the
ground between the fence posts, permitting the animals to escape. An
effective method of holding the wire close to the ground is shown in
the sketch. A peg, notched near its upper end, is driven into the
ground so that the lower edge of the wire mesh is held fast in the
notch.--Contributed by O. B. Laurent, New Roads, La.
[Illustration: The Notched Stake Holds the Wire Mesh Down between the
Posts Where It Has a Tendency to Rise from the Ground]
Jig-Saw Table for Vise
Those who have occasional work to be done with a jig saw will find the
simple device shown in the sketch convenient. It provides a table for
sawing light work. By holding it in a vise, as shown, a rigid support
may be had. The table is made of a rectangular piece of ³⁄₄-in. wood,
8 in. wide and 10 in. long. At one end, a strip, 1 in. square, is
attached for clamping in the vise. The other end is notched to provide
a place for the saw while in use.--Contributed by Victor A. Rettich,
New York, N. Y.
[Illustration: The Jig-Saw Table Provides a Rigid Support for Light
Fretwork]
An Emergency Dark-Room Light
[Illustration]
The traveling man who “lives in a suitcase” and at the same time wishes
to enjoy the pleasures of amateur photography sometimes experiences
difficulty in developing films in a hotel room. Soup plates borrowed
from the steward, or even the bowl pitcher and the ice-water pitcher in
the room, can be used for development, but it is very hard to improvise
a ruby lamp. My emergency lamp is a small vest-pocket flash lamp over
which two yellow envelopes, one inside of the other, are slipped, as
shown. The lower edges are cut perfectly square and rest on the table,
or shelf, in the closet, and all white light is excluded. At night, the
shades may be drawn, and a yellow-paper sack may be tied around the
electric light.--Contributed by J. L. Pinkston, Granite Hill, Ga.
An Ice Creeper
[Illustration]
The illustration shows a one-piece ice creeper for the heel of a boot
or shoe. It is made from sheet steel with the arms bent up to receive a
strap for buckling it in place on the boot heel. The zigzag cuts in the
bottom part are turned down for engaging the ice.--Contributed by Chas.
S. Snell, Lewiston, Me.
* * * * *
¶In machine work a way must be provided for removing dowel pins
before they are driven in place.
Waterproofing for Fish Lines
Dissolve ¹⁄₂ oz. of orange shellac in ¹⁄₂ pt. of alcohol, and add 1
teaspoonful of Venice turpentine, the same quantity of raw linseed oil,
and 2 oz. tincture of benzoin. Shake well, and set in a varnish can in
hot water.
Soak the coiled line in the varnish for two hours, then hang it up to
dry. Thin the varnish with alcohol, and repeat the dipping. When the
line is dry, rub it down well with a wool rag greased with tallow. Silk
lines treated in this manner are pliable, and the fibers of the silk
are so united by the varnish that the strength of the line is almost
doubled.
Making Chest Lock More Secure
[Illustration]
As a rule, ordinary chest locks cannot be relied upon, since almost
any kind of a similar key will unlock them. I found a good remedy by
taking out the pin on which the key fits, and making a new one twice as
long as the one removed, then drilling a hole in the key deep enough
to fit over the new pin. In case the pin extends too far, a piece of
wood block, with a hole in it to admit the key, can be fastened over it
to prevent bending the pin. No ordinary key will pass on the pin far
enough to turn the lock.--Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington,
Pa.
Driving Screws in Hard Wood
Keep the supply of screws in a box containing a small amount of
powdered soapstone. Shake the box occasionally, and the screws will
be dusted with the powder, which acts as a lubricant. This is a much
cleaner and more convenient method than the ordinary one of rubbing
each screw on a bar of soap before driving it in hard wood.
[Illustration: Paddling Your Own Canoe
by
Stillman Taylor
PART I--Kinds of Canoes]
The charm of the birchen canoe has long been sung in verse and prose,
and while the bark that the Indian used has been supplanted by a more
perfect type of modern manufacture, the popularity of this, the most
graceful of water craft, has increased with years, until today we find
the canoe the choice of thousands of recreation seekers who paddle
about in park lakes and quiet streams, or spend their vacations in
cruising down rivers and other attractive waterways--sometimes within
the environs of towns and villages, and again dipping paddles in the
wilderness streams of the far north. True, the modern canoe is a
distinct product of the twentieth century, and while it is so largely
used at summer resorts, it nevertheless retains all the good points
of the old, while embodying numerous improvements which fit it even
better for wilderness travel than the Indian model after which it was
patterned. The noteworthy increase in the number of canoeists in the
past dozen years is good evidence that this natty craft is fast coming
into its own, and as more and more outdoor men and women understand its
possibilities and limitations and become proficient in handling it, the
long-rooted fear and distrust with which the uninformed public regard
the canoe, will pass away. As a matter of fact, accidents ever follow
in the wake of ignorance and carelessness, and while there are very
few expert gunners injured by firearms, and still fewer experienced
canoeists drowned, there are numerous sad accidents constantly
occurring to the reckless and foolhardy, who do not know how to handle
a weapon, nor understand the first thing about paddling a canoe. Let
us consider then, the practical side of the subject, the choice of a
suitable canoe and the knack of handling it in a safe and efficient
manner.
If one would experience in full measure the many-sided charm of
paddling, he should get a good canoe. Unlike other and heavier water
craft, the canoe is a lightly balanced and responsive conveyance,
which may be cranky and dangerous, or safe and stable, according
to the model, the skill of the builder, and the dexterity of the
paddler. There are canoes and canoes, of varying models and sizes, and
constructed of many materials, and while all may serve as a means of
getting about in the water, the paddling qualities include numerous
little idiosyncrasies which serve to differentiate canoes as well as
men. In fact, this light and graceful craft may be properly viewed as
the highest type of boat building, since it must be fashioned strong
but light; it must be steady when going light; capable of carrying
comparatively heavy loads; draw little water, and it must be honestly
constructed of good material to stand up under the hard usage which
every canoe is subjected to, whether used for summer paddling, or upon
long hunting and shooting trips.
Three types of canoes are in common use by experienced canoeists, the
birch-bark, the all-wood, and the canvas-covered cedar canoe. The
birch-bark, by reason of its rougher workmanship, is slow under the
paddle, is easily injured, and it grows heavier and more difficult to
handle every time it is used. The all-wood canoe is most expensive to
buy, and though swift under the paddle, is too easily injured and too
difficult to repair for rough and ready use. The cedar-planked canoe
which is covered with filled and painted canvas is for many reasons the
best all-around craft-attractive enough for park use, and stout enough
for use in rapid water and for cruising in northern lakes and rivers.
How to Select a Birch-Bark Canoe
The Indian-made birch-bark canoe costs about $1 a foot and is fashioned
of birch bark over an ash, or spruce, frame. The bark is not nailed
to the frame, but is sewed together with boiled spruce, or tamarack,
roots, split to a suitable size. To give the proper shape to the canoe
a double row of stakes are firmly planted in the ground and the spruce
frame is sprung between them. The bark is put on inside out, and the
work of sewing together is done while the bark is fresh, or immediately
after it is stripped from the tree. The seams are afterward made
water-tight by smearing well with spruce gum, which hardens quickly
and makes a fairly good joint. The Indian model is a good one so far
as the freeboard, width of beam, and flaring stems are concerned, but
the curved bottom makes it extremely cranky and dangerous for the
novice to handle. Be sure to see that the birch-bark canoe is fashioned
with a flat, straight bottom, which makes the craft steadier and less
inclined to veer about under the stroke of the paddle. In an expert’s
hands the round bottom will be found a decided advantage, making it
faster to paddle and more easily turned and steered in swift and rough
water. Many prefer the three-piece bottom, but the bottom made of a
single piece of bark is stronger and less likely to open up and leak.
All birch canoes will warp and twist somewhat, and it is practically
impossible to find one that is straight and true. The birch-bark canoe
has many limitations and not a few weaknesses, but if one has the good
luck to find a good one, and treats it fairly, it will prove a safe and
dry craft for many hundreds of miles’ travel. Of course, one must carry
a kettle of pitch for making repairs, and be content to travel somewhat
slower than with modern canoes, but this may not be a disadvantage.
Birch canoes have no seats, as the Indian kneels when paddling, but a
low thwart, or seat, is easy to put in at the bow and stern, if one
prefers the white man’s paddling position.
All-Wood or Peterborough Canoe
This type of craft is much used in Canada along the St. Lawrence River,
and to a much less extent by American sportsmen, owing to its higher
cost, and its tendency to break and cause a leak. Of course, the
all-wood canoe is a good craft, but everything considered, there can be
no question in the minds of canoeists who are acquainted with all types
of canoes, that the all-cedar or basswood craft is less dependable than
the canvas-covered cedar canoe. The Peterborough type--so called from
a Canadian city of this name where many wood canoes are made--with its
relatively low ends and straight sides with but little sheer and tumble
home, is the model commonly used by practically all manufacturers of
the all-wood canoe. While a boat of this kind can be, and often is,
used in rough-water lake paddling as well as in wilderness travel, the
all-wood canoe is better suited for club use, and in the wider and more
quiet-flowing streams and lakes.
[Illustration: The Best All-Around Craft, for Two Men and a Reasonable
Amount of Camp Duffle, Is a Canvas-Covered Cedar Canoe, 16 Feet Long,
32-Inch Beam, and 12 Inches Amidships, Weighing About 60 Pounds]
The Canvas-Covered Cedar Canoe
The canvas-covered cedar canoe, when rightly made of the best material,
is by all odds the best paddling craft afloat, being strong and light,
with a hull so smooth that it is swift to paddle, while the mode of
construction makes a very stiff craft, which will not warp or twist
out of shape. Moreover, it will stand a vast amount of hard usage and
abuse, while repairs are quickly and neatly done by the stream side.
In the making of a first-class canoe of this type, the ribs are first
steamed and then bent and fitted over a solid form; cedar being used
for the ribs and planking; spruce for the gunwales, and white ash,
or oak, for the stems and thwarts. In a canoe built according to my
instructions, each plank runs to the full length of the craft and all
are beveled and lapped together, thus making a perfectly smooth and
almost water-tight canoe, before the canvas is cemented on its surface.
The canvas is thoroughly waterproofed before it is put on, then it is
drawn tightly over the planking, and several coats of filler and the
final finish of paint are applied, after which it is rubbed down.
The well-made canvas-covered canoe is, if properly designed, a pretty
good facsimile of the representative Indian model in that it possesses
all the good points of the birch-bark canoe, but is more substantially
constructed, of better and more durable material, and more finely
finished. In making the selection, it is necessary to pay a fair price
to obtain a good craft, and while various manufacturers supply canoes
of similar types at different prices, some of them are so inferior that
they will scarcely stand a season’s use. Of course, the use to which a
canoe is put will influence the selection. If the craft is wanted for
long service on hunting and fishing trips, a high-grade canoe of plain
finish is the logical choice. If the canoe is for club use, a highly
finished craft with mahogany trimmings may be preferred. A canoe for
occasional use on some quiet lake or small stream may be selected from
the cheaper kinds, which will, no doubt, answer every purpose. However,
most manufacturers list what they call an “A” and a “B” grade. The “A”
grade provides selected-cedar ribs and planking; oak for gunwales,
stems, thwarts and seats selected from the finest material, and the
finish the best that can be procured, while the “B” grade is identical
in model, canvas and paint, but the material not quite so clear or free
from minor defects, though for all practical purposes it will render
as much service and give fully as much satisfaction as the first, or
“A,” grade. A little saving may be made by selecting the second-grade
canoe, having most of the money invested in the canoe and not so much
in the finer finishings. The ordinary construction provides for the
ordinary solid topwale, but the open gunwale is sometimes preferred,
because the openings make washing easy, all sand and dirt running out
freely between the wales. This construction detail is supplied by most
manufacturers, when specified, at a slight additional cost.
[Illustration: The Important Parts of a Canoe, Giving Names for the
Information of the Novice]
Points to be Considered
The particular shape, combined with the dimensions, of the canoe is
commonly called the model, and since many canoe builders offer several
different models it is a comparatively easy matter to find a craft
which fully meets one’s ideas of a canoe. Canoes can be had as small as
10 ft. long and weighing as little as 18 lb., while others are built
all the way up to 35 ft. and ranging around 50 in. wide. For all-around
use, that is for cruising, hunting, and fishing, the 16-ft. length,
with 32-in. beam, 12 in. deep amidships, and weighing about 60 lb.,
will meet the approval of the experienced canoeist. In a good canoe of
this size a flat floor, medium-high ends, and a fair amount of tumble
home--to add stability and keep the water from shooting inboard--may be
reckoned the “earmarks” of a general-purpose craft. For exclusive river
work, where many rapids are encountered, a lightly rounded bottom, a
trifle lower in the center than at the ends, will be easier to handle
in white water, while comparatively narrow ends will give more speed
under the paddle.
All canvas-covered canoes are provided with brass bang plates, or
irons, at stern and bow, and if wanted, an outside keel may be
furnished. In most cases this is not essential, but when the canoe
is largely used in rocky rivers a broad keel of ¹⁄₂-in. oak, or ash,
2¹⁄₂ in. wide in the center and tapered at both ends to fit the brass
bang irons, will protect the bottom from hard knocks. The narrow 1-in.
keel is an out-and-out nuisance, making the canoe slow to turn and
furnishing but scant protection for the bottom. Any keel adds to the
weight of the craft, and weight is a factor that must be considered
when much portaging is done. So far as capacity is concerned, a canoe,
16 ft. long, 32-in. beam, and 12-in. amidship depth, will accommodate
two men and the usual amount of camp duffle, weighing from 350 to 400
lb. On short trips, a 15-ft. canoe may be made to accommodate two men,
while on very long cruises, where a larger amount of duffle must be
taken along, an 18-ft. canoe may be needed. For three persons, the 17
or 18-ft. canoe, of 34-in. beam, is about right, but for a party of
four it is better to use two 16-ft. canoes than one large craft. In
fact, canoes longer than 18 ft. are more properly regarded as freight
craft and only used on special trips.
Moccasins, or rubber-soled footwear, are most suitable for the
canoeist’s wear, but since heavy-heeled shoes are often worn, it is a
good plan to protect the thin planking by running a slatted floor, 8
or 10 in. wide, in the center of the canoe. Provide this grating with
brass buttons, and it will be held firmly in place, but removable at
any time. For convenience in towing, a small but flexible rope--braided
cotton is always soft and pliable--about 20 ft. long, should be tied
at both bow and stern. The ordinary “painter eye,” which fastens with
a bolt screwed to the under side of the breast hooks, is good, but a
small hole, through which the rope is securely knotted, will serve as
well.
Paddles
The best material for paddles is good selected spruce, and while this
material is not so heavy nor will stand hard knocks so well as maple or
birch, its lightness makes it the choice of many paddlers. For rough
work the maple paddle may be chosen, and while heavier than spruce, it
possesses greater elasticity, and this spring offsets to a great extent
the larger weight of material. Cedar, ash, and pine make excellent
paddles, and the Indians often fashion them from these woods.
In selecting a single-blade paddle, it is well to remember that the
length will depend on the paddler’s height, for it is self-evident
that a tall man will require a longer paddle than a short person can
conveniently swing. Hence the usual rule is to pick out a paddle as
long as the paddler is tall, and is a sensible one to follow, although
there are exceptions. Personal preferences differ, and, also, a longer
paddle will be required when paddling from seats than when a kneeling
position is adopted. For general use, the stern paddle of 5¹⁄₂-ft.
length will be long enough, while the bow paddle of 5 ft. will probably
suit the average man. Ladies, boys, and girls will need shorter lengths.
The shape of the paddle blades varies somewhat, and while some prefer
a broad blade and others a narrow one, it is well to pick out one
of medium size. Large blades are tiresome for long trips, while the
narrow blade balances best in the hand, but affords less resistance in
the water. When picking out a spruce paddle, see that there is plenty
of wood at the juncture of the blade and shaft, for it is at this
point most paddles break. Spruce being a comparatively soft wood, it
will fur badly, and the blades should be fitted with copper tips to
prevent splitting. Maple paddles do not need this protection, but most
builders err in making them too thick and heavy. Pick out the lightest
and thinnest maple paddle that can be found, one that is fashioned
of straight-grained wood, and test it for elasticity before making
the purchase. A couple of coats of spar varnish will keep the paddles
in good shape, but as a varnished surface is hard on the hands, most
veteran canoeists varnish the blades and finish the shafts with oil. An
extra paddle will, of course, be carried on all long trips.
[Illustration: Canoe Yoke Equipped with Adjustable Shoulder Pads, and
the Pneumatic Carrier That Serves Two Purposes]
The single-blade paddle is quite universally used, but the double-blade
gives more spread for the lone paddler. Although the double-blade was
designed for the “Rob Roy” type of canoe--a one-man craft, decked
both fore and aft, the paddler sitting in a cockpit in the center--it
is sometimes used for propelling the open Canadian canoe, and when
the canoeist travels alone, the double-blade is a good choice,
especially on open waters where much wind and high seas are likely to
be encountered. Spruce is the best material for double paddles, and
10 ft. is the best length. As all double-bladed paddles are provided
with a ferrule, or friction joint, in the center, they may be unjointed
and each used as a pair of single paddles. In case the open end of the
metal ferrule is objectionable, a wood plug may be fitted to provide a
palm grip, similar to the grip of the single paddle.
Portages for Carrying the Canoe
When the weight of the canoe does not exceed 65 lb., it is easily
carried by placing the paddle blades over the center thwart, the
ends under the next after thwart and lashing them securely in place;
then placing a sweater or coat over the shoulder to form a pad on
which to rest the paddles to carry the canoe in an inverted position.
However, when long portages must be undertaken the “neck yoke,” or the
pneumatic canoe yoke, may be used. The neck yoke is fashioned from a
block of pine, or other soft wood, to fit the curve of the shoulders,
and the ends fit in the grooves made in the gunwales; or small pieces
of wood may be screwed to the under side of the gunwale to serve the
same purpose. The pneumatic cushion, which fits around the neck and is
provided with straps to secure the paddles in position, is well-liked
by some canoeists, but the wood neck yoke fits so well that it is
hard to find a good substitute. A large and heavy craft can be easily
carried by two men by turning the craft bottom side up and resting the
weight on the back and shoulders. If the man at the stern lets the
gunwale rest on his shoulders and his companion lower the front thwart
to rest against his neck and shoulders, both may carry a light pack of
duffle and will have a clear view of the trail ahead.
To Practice Batting for Baseball Playing
[Illustration: Learning to Strike a Ball without the Aid of a Pitcher
or Fielder]
A boy with a very great desire to make a good ball player found that
he could not hit a ball tossed to him. Try as he might, the bat never
hit the ball. Some one suggested that a ball hung by a cord would
help to a great extent, and it was tried out with excellent results.
An inexpensive ball was suspended from the limb of a tree so that it
would be at the proper height for the batter. In striking at the ball
it was not necessary to make home-run hits, as this is liable to break
the cord, or get it tangled to its support. If the strikes are made
properly, the ball will swing out and come back in a perfect curve,
or can be made to come back bounding and in no straight line. This
will teach the eye to locate the ball and make hits where it cannot be
taught by having some one toss the ball to the striker.
Making Impressions of Leaves
A very true and artistic impression of a leaf, or similar object,
can be made as follows: Grease a piece of heavy writing paper with
linseed oil, and smoke the surface well by lighting a small piece of
camphor gum and holding the paper over the flame. Place the leaf on the
smoked surface of the paper and cover it with several thicknesses of
newspaper, then press the leaf into the blackened surface. Remove the
leaf and lay it with the blackened surface on a piece of white paper,
then cover again with the newspaper and press evenly and thoroughly. A
beautiful and permanent impression of the leaf will be transferred to
the paper.
Care should be taken not to move the leaf the least bit either in
coating it with the smoke or in transferring it to the paper. Be
careful not to use too much oil. This process can be used to stamp
cloth for embroidery. A candle can be used in place of the camphor if
care is exercised, but the camphor gives a very dense smoke with a
minimum of heat.--Contributed by J. H. Beebee, Rochester, N. Y.
[Illustration]
Making T-Squares
BY J. B. Murphy
The making of a single article of any kind presents a distinct problem
in itself, but the production of a large number of the same article
must be done in a different way, if efficiency and uniformity in the
product are desirable qualities. Taking, for instance, the making of
a large number of T-squares, the material is not made up in the same
manner as for one. Where a number of these instruments was required,
they were made as follows, with no other Equipment than bench tools and
a band saw. The squares were made of mahogany having both stock and
blade edged with maple. The blades were fastened to the stock with five
³⁄₈-in. button-head screws.
[Illustration: Dimensions for a T-Square of Which a Number where to be
Made in Duplicate]
The material for the heads and the blades was glued up and finished
to the sizes given at A and B. The material was cut to gauge lines on
the band saw, the blades being a scant ¹⁄₈ in. in thickness, and the
stocks, ³⁄₈ in. Two of each were cut from each prepared piece, first
from one side and then from the other. They were then faced off on both
sides, and two more pieces cut. With careful cutting, six blades and
six stocks were made from each piece. This left one side of each piece
to be planed after sawing. The holes for the screws were drilled with a
small hand drill.
[Illustration: Stock and Blade Material for Making the Parts, and the
Jig for Assembling]
For assembling, a jig was made by nailing a piece of stock, ³⁄₈ in.
thick, to a straight drawing board. One end of the piece was planed
straight and true before it was fastened in place. Stops were provided
to locate the stock and hold the blade square with it. Wedges were
used to keep both stock and blade against the stops while the screws
were inserted. The wedges were not driven with a hammer, but pushed in
firmly with the fingers.
* * * * *
¶Insert a scratch awl in common hard soap for hardening, and it will
need no drawing after the plunge.
[Illustration: Paddling Your Own Canoe
by
Stillman Taylor
PART II--The Knack of Handling the Paddle]
The knack of paddling a canoe as the majority of amateurs paddle is
quickly learned, but to handle a paddle as the expert woodsman and
the Indian wield it requires not a little practice and experience. In
the birch-bark and canvas-covered craft, used by the guides of Maine
and Canada, there are no seats, and the stern paddler kneels with his
back against the rear thwart, while the bow paddler usually kneels
with his back against the second thwart from the bow. However, the
builders of modern canoes furnish a seat for each paddler, and while
it is more comfortable to use them, it is better to take the kneeling
position, which brings the weight lower in the canoe, as it is safer,
and the paddler is better able to control his craft. Again, the use of
the seat makes it impossible for the paddler to put much of his body
into the stroke, and he propels the craft largely through the muscles
of his arms and shoulders. But when paddling from the knees they are
spread out to brace the body firmly, and the back resting against
the thwart enables the paddler to use his back and thigh muscles to
drive his craft ahead with much less exertion and waste of energy than
when sitting erect. Of course, the kneeling position is a source of
discomfort at first, but after a little practice it will be easy to
keep the position for several hours.
The stroke of the paddle is made with the body motionless, one hand
grasping the shaft of the paddle and the other holding it a short
distance above the blade. The paddle is now carried forward, dipped
into the water in front, Fig. 1, A and B, and carried downward past
the paddler’s body, Fig. 2, A and B, and the stroke is finished in the
rear, Fig. 3, A and B. The paddle is recovered by turning the wrist so
that the blade is turned edgewise as it is swung through the air to
begin the second stroke. The swing of the paddle should be smooth from
the beginning to the finish of the stroke, that is, free from undue
jerkiness, but the long and slow sweep of the paddle is amateurish,
pure and simple. The canoemen of the North woods do not use this
stroke, but prefer a shorter stroke, quick recovery of the blade, and
the “accent” of the stroke is much the same as that the expert axman
uses when felling a tree. Therefore one’s energy should be concentrated
upon the first part of the stroke, easing up quickly as soon as the
blade is opposite the body, and finishing the stroke smartly as it is
carried backward. The driving power of the paddle diminishes rapidly
as the blade is carried backward, and if the full force of the stroke
is continued with a long backward sweep, a way of most amateurs, much
energy is wasted, since it adds nothing to the forward momentum of
the canoe, but rather retards it, by forcing down the stern, and also
causes the craft to drag more water after it. For a short afternoon
paddle almost any kind of a stroke will suffice to drive the canoe
ahead, but upon long trips, or when head winds and rough water are
encountered, the quick, short stroke will save both time and muscle.
The long sweeping stroke of the summer idler will probably average
about 26 to 30 strokes per minute, while the North-woods guide and
Indian will dip their blades almost twice as often, a fair cruising
average being about 45 strokes per minute. Short strokes, with the
accent at the beginning of the stroke, will push the canoe faster and
with less effort, and the paddler has better control over his craft.
[Illustration: FIG. 1-A
FIG. 2-A
FIG. 3-A
FIG. 1-B
FIG. 2-B
FIG. 3-B
The Stroke of the Paddle is Made with the Body Motionless, One Hand
Grasping the Shaft of the Paddle and the Other Holding It a Short
Distance above the Blade]
The bow paddler usually does nothing more than keep up a regular stroke
and watch for rocks and obstructions, but if he is a good hand at the
paddle he can do much to steer the canoe. For example, take the usual
bow stroke, made by dipping the paddle quite close and ahead of the
canoe. The force of the stroke thus made forces the bow in the opposite
direction, and the man in the stern will be called upon to use more
energy in steering. In contrast to this faulty handling of the paddle,
the experienced bowman will begin his stroke by dipping his paddle well
out from the bow and pulling it toward him at a greater angle, which
keeps the canoe moving straight ahead without swinging to one side,
and the energy of both paddlers is used in driving the craft steadily
ahead. When paddling in tortuous and rocky streams it is the bow
paddler’s duty to watch out for rocks and snags, and he should always
be prepared to “draw” the canoe whenever it is necessary to clear an
obstruction or assist the stern paddler to shoot the canoe around an
abrupt bend. To do this is simple enough, since the bowman merely
reaches his paddle out at arm’s length over the side and pulls the bow
in that direction, while the stern paddler simply paddles straight
ahead.
The stern paddler is the helmsman of the canoe, and while he can keep
his craft on a straight course by trailing his paddle at the end of
each stroke and using it like a rudder, it can only be done when a
long, slow stroke is used. To save time and muscle, the experienced
stern paddler always finishes his stroke with an outward push and a
turn of the wrist, which offsets the swing of the bow and keeps the
canoe on a straight course with much less effort than when trailing the
paddle astern. Paddling from the stern is often considered difficult,
but one soon masters it by a little experience.
Paddling in Open and White Water
[Illustration: Dangerous for the Novice, but Experts Win Races in This
Position]
When traveling in the open waters of large lakes where heavy winds
and seas are commonly encountered, paddling should always be done on
the knees, and the canoeist’s own experience and judgment must be
called upon to meet constantly changing conditions of the wind and
water. To cross a broad stretch of wind-swept water where whitecaps
are running high, means a long, hard fight, and the stern paddler must
be ever alert to ease the canoe through breaking crests and shift his
balance whenever the necessity arises. When paddling in rough water,
many canoeists make the mistake of driving their craft too hard,
consequently the canoe will “pound” when it reaches the trough of the
sea, and much unnecessary spray is sent flying aboard. Of course, in
rough water some spray is certain to come over the rail, but if the
craft is well balanced by stowing the camp duffle so that the canoe
floats on an even keel, it will, with proper handling, weather a pretty
stiff gale.
When paddling against a heavy sea and wind, the regular stroke must be
altered and modified, and the man in the stern may often balance his
craft by holding his paddle in the water while a particular high comber
sweeps by. Short and clean strokes are essential for handling the
canoe in a heavy sea, and while the skillful canoeist can handle his
craft in the trough of the sea when the need arises, it is hazardous
for the novice to attempt it. In heavy weather, it is a good thing to
keep one paddle in the water while the other is in the air, hence the
experienced canoeist will--unconsciously perhaps--alternate or “split”
strokes with his bowman.
To paddle, head on, into heavy seas is slow and tiresome work, and most
canoeists find it easier to take the seas on the quarter, and the stern
paddler must be ever on the lookout, nursing his craft over the big
ones and often turning his bow into the largest combers. To be sure,
the canoe will plunge more or less and yaw about, but the stern paddler
merely checks this side spin, since he cannot prevent it entirely and
drive his craft onward at the same time. When running before the wind,
it is only necessary to keep the canoe balanced or “trimmed” to keep
things dry. Here the bow paddler has the best of it; his sole duty is
to keep paddling steadily ahead, while the balancing and handling of
the canoe rests with the man in the stern. This point is well worth
remembering, for to keep the canoe right side up when shooting rapids
or when bucking heavy seas or a lake, the bow paddler must stick to his
seat. He can, from his position in the bow, quickly note rocks or other
obstructions and pass the word to his partner, who from his point of
advantage can likewise better size up the effect of a high wave upon
the craft. Probably more capsizes have resulted through the bowman’s
mistaken efforts to balance the canoe by leaning to one side, or
attempting to dodge the spray in rough-water paddling, than through the
inability of the stern paddler to handle his craft.
Running a rapid stream in a canoe is replete with excitement, but it
is likewise a dangerous bit of fun for the inexperienced canoeist who
has not fully mastered the handling of his craft. When running rapids
where the water is fairly deep, the use of the paddle is the better
way, providing both paddlers kneel in the bottom of the canoe. Unknown
streams are naturally the most dangerous, although the veteran canoeist
can “size” up the character of the stream at the first glance, that is,
the trained eye of the woodsman will read the bottom of the river by
the indications on the surface; depth of water, strength of current,
swirl caused by submerged rocks, and many other details are evident to
him. To the novice these signs mean but little. If the current flow is
from three to four miles per hour, rocks or submerged logs, 4 or 5 in.
below the surface, will show very little, but in a 10-mile or swifter
current obstructions 12 or even 18 in. below the surface will throw up
swirling ripples, and in a very rocky stream with much water flowing,
rocks 3 or 4 ft. below will throw up waves of good size. Again, waves
are caused by swift water striking the comparatively quiet water of a
deep pool and the canoeist should be able to determine the difference
between them in order to know what part of the stretch is dangerous and
that which may be run in safety.
The waves in a rapid stream are altogether unlike the rolling waves of
the open lake, in that the crests follow one another closely and the
canoe cannot rise, but plunges through the curling crests. Rocks on
the surface are easily avoided, as they split the current, and it is
only necessary to steer the craft to one side to pass them safely. The
one chief thing to do when shooting the rapids is to keep the canoe on
an even keel and the bow into the current, and when it is necessary
to change channels, the craft must be shot diagonally across the fast
water. To keep the canoe under perfect control in white water, it must
be propelled faster than the current flows, and the force of the stream
must not strike one side of the bow with greater force than it exerts
on the other side. When a canoe swings around in the current, the power
of the paddles will be unable to cope with the more powerful current,
which quickly swings it broadside and one is struggling in the water in
the next instant.
[Illustration: The Double Blade Is Often Useful When Paddling
Single-Handed on a Broad Reach of Wind-Swept Water]
On a long canoe trip where much rapid water must be run, a “setting
pole” should be reckoned a necessity. The pole may be a stout sapling,
10 ft. long, cut by the stream side, but an iron shoe, or spike,
about 3 in. long, with an iron band or ferrule, should be carried in
the kit, the iron spike being simply driven in the end of the green
pole. The pole may be used to good advantage when running down shallow
rapids, the man in the bow kneeling and using his paddle to help
steer while his partner stands in the stern and wields the pole. When
traveling up shallow and swift streams, the setting pole is absolutely
necessary, and while at first it is an awkward implement to handle,
a little practice will enable the canoeist to pole his craft with
very little more effort than is required to paddle it. The use of the
pole necessitates a standing position, but this is neither risky nor
difficult for any canoeist who understands the knack of balancing a
canoe, and none but an experienced canoeist has any business in swift,
white water. The setting pole is gripped with the left hand near the
top, with the right hand held stationary about 2 ft. lower, and as the
canoe travels past the pole, firmly planted on the river bottom, the
poler leans forward and makes use of his weight and strength to give a
quick push. The pole is again shoved forward as quickly as possible,
that the craft may lose as little headway as possible, and a new grip
secured for the next push. After a little experience with the pole,
the canoeist will find it an easy matter to swing his craft across
the current and avoid rocks and other obstructions as easily as when
paddling. When contemplating a long trip up a stream where the water is
heavy and the current swift, the use of two poles will make the work
easier. Both persons should pole from the same side, the man in the
bow doing the steering while the stern man adds his straight-ahead push
to force the canoe upstream.
[Illustration: Shifting the Paddle from One Side of the Canoe to The
Other]
The Track Line
The average wilderness stream of the North has enough “tight” places
which judgment tells the traveler to avoid by making a detour by land
rather than risk a capsize and a possible loss of the outfit. To
“tote” the outfit overland means more or less hard work, and as every
canoeist will avoid portaging if there is a fair chance of getting the
canoe through a bad stretch of water, the tracking line will come in
handy very often. The usual ring in the bow of the canoe is far too
flimsy for hauling the loaded craft, and sufficient length of stout
rope should be carried along to pass through the painter eye, and then
carried aft and half-hitched to the first and second thwarts. One man
can pull the canoe up a swift stream by walking along the bank while
his partner takes up the opposite side and steers the craft away from
rocks by using a stern line. With a heavily loaded canoe in very swift
and shallow water, both men must often wade, and a tump line rigged up
as a breast or shoulder strap will make it easier work for the man at
the bow line.
Paddling a Canoe Single-Handed
The open, or Canadian-model, canoe is, of course, handled more easily
and with better speed with two paddlers but there are occasions when
the canoe is used single-handed. When out for a few hours’ paddle, the
canoeist usually balances the craft by sitting on the bow seat--or
kneels on the bottom with his back against the bow-seat brace--and
using the stern for the bow. This brings the paddler’s weight nearer
the center and keeps the canoe better balanced than when paddling from
the stern with the bow high in the air. However, when the canoe is
loaded, many canoeists stow their camp duffle forward and paddle from
the stern, the weight of the outfit keeping the craft on an even keel.
This answers well enough for smooth-water going, but when the water is
rough, or a stretch of rapids is run single-handed, the stern position
is by no means a good one since the craft is more difficult to control,
and much more strength is required to drive it forward. The Indian
manner of paddling a canoe alone is the only correct one, for he always
sits amidships--kneeling in the center--and if a load is carried, it
is placed in front and back of him so that the craft is balanced on an
even keel. Consequently the canoe draws less water and can be paddled
faster with the same effort, while the paddler has the craft under
perfect control. But the experienced line paddler does not kneel in
the center, he moves out until his body is close to the gunwale. This
makes the craft heel at a decided angle, it is true, but this position
makes for better speed because it enables the paddle to be held almost
vertical, and the more nearly perpendicular the paddle is swung the
more efficient will be the stroke.
In using the double blade, the paddler dips first on one side, then
on the other, and to make the blades travel through the air with the
least resistance, it is customary to set them at right angles to each
other. The motion is really a push and pull, the shaft of the paddle
being rotated in the hands so that the blade will enter the water with
the full breadth facing the canoeist. Rubber cups, to catch the drip as
the paddle rises in the air when making the stroke, are sometimes used
by novices, but these are unnecessary if the paddles are set at right
angles, and the paddler will bend his wrist a trifle to throw the drip
ahead and to one side. At the beginning, the novice will very likely
throw a little water in the canoe, but a little practice will soon
master the knack.
Care and Repair of the Canoe
The canvas-covered cedar canoe will stand a vast amount of hard
service, but it should not be dragged over the ground or over the
boarding of the landing float, neither should it be so placed that any
strain will come amidships while the ends are well supported. When
storing for the winter, keep it under cover, resting bottom side down
on a floor, or turn it bottom side up and support it with boxes, or
other standards, at the center as well as at the ends. While unused at
the camp, turn it bottom side up on the bank. Birch bark must be kept
out of the sun, and the paint of canvas-covered canoes will last longer
if kept in the shade. When the paint becomes rough, sandpaper it down
smooth, and give it a couple of coats of canoe paint. When the paint is
worn off and exposes the canvas, give the bare cloth a couple of coats
of shellac before painting.
[Illustration: Paddling should be Done on the Knees When Traveling
Where High Winds and Seas are Encountered]
A repair kit should be taken along on all long trips, consisting of
a small can of white lead, a can of orange shellac, and a sheet of
oiled silk. For small cuts in the canvas, a coat or two of shellac
will suffice, but for bad gashes, cut off the loose threads of canvas
and rub on a little white lead under the raised portion near the hole
and on the surface, cut a patch of the oiled silk to cover it, and
paste it in position. When the lead is dry, give it a couple of coats
of shellac. For making quick repairs, a roll of electrician’s tape
will come in handy. The birch canoe is quickly repaired in the same
manner as suggested for the canvas-covered craft, and as the shellac is
waterproof and dries quickly, all ordinary repairs may be made by the
stream side with but little loss of time.
Oiling Tool for Clocks
Jewelers use a little tool for oiling clocks and watches that could be
used profitably by others for the same and similar work. It consists of
a steel wire, bluntly pointed on the end and set into a wood handle.
Very often the only thing that is the matter with a clock which does
not keep good time, is that it is dirty and dry. If this is the case,
any person handy with tools can fix it at practically no cost. Remove
the works, which are usually held with four screws, from the case,
immerse them in kerosene and allow them to stand for a few minutes,
then remove and drain. This will clean out the dirt.
[Illustration: The Tool will Pick Up a Drop of Oil and Deposit It Where
Wanted]
The oiling tool is dipped in light oil and a drop applied to each
bearing. Replace the works in the case and the job is finished. A
reliable jeweler will charge very little for this work, but the more
crafty ones may ask a good price for this “mysterious” process. If the
works are not dirty, apply the oil with the tool. Anyone who has tried
to oil a clock with an ordinary spout oilcan knows the futility of the
attempt. The object of the tool is to pick up and carry a drop of oil
and deposit it where wanted. A can, a feather, or a match will do, but
any one of them is apt to carry dirt, flood the dry part, or smear up
nonmoving parts.
Easily Constructed Wall Shelves
[Illustration: Shelves for Books Supported with Picture-Frame Wire to
the Wall]
All that is necessary to make and support the simple set of wall
shelves, shown in the illustration, is lumber for the shelves, four
screw eyes, four screw hooks, sufficient picture-frame wire to form the
braces and supports, and wood screws for attaching the wire. On the
top side of the upper shelf are fastened the four screw eyes, two near
the wall edge and the others near the outer edge. To support the upper
shelf four screw hooks are used; two placed in the wall and spaced to
match the set of screw eyes nearest the wall, the others being placed
above the first and connected to the outer set of screw eyes with the
wire, thereby forming strong inclined supports. The remaining shelves
can be hung to suit by the supporting wires, which are fastened with
screws to the end of each shelf.
Showing the Strength of a Giant
This trick is not so well known as it might be, although for a while it
was quite a popular drawing attraction for circus side shows and other
amusement places. It is one of the favorite Hindu tricks. The performer
passes for examination two pieces of rope 10 ft. long. In one end of
each rope a large ring is fastened. Taking a ring in each hand the
performer commands three or four men at each end of the rope to take
hold of it and at a signal they pull as hard as possible. They pull
until they are exhausted as in a tug of war, but the performer only
appears a trifle exerted and finds no difficulty in holding the men.
[Illustration: The Performer Seems to Hold the Ones Pulling on the
Ropes without Any Effort, Producing an Effect That cannot be Readily
Understood, and Making an Excellent Trick for the Lawn Party]
The secret is in the use of a piece of flexible wire, which passes up
the right sleeve of the performer, across the back and down the left
sleeve, lying just inside of the coat sleeve. At the ends of the wire
are small hooks. When about to perform this trick the performer puts on
a pair of gloves. The gloves are slit in the palms to allow the hooks
to pass through. The hooks are covered with cloth, colored to match
the gloves. An essential point to remember in performing the trick is
to keep the fingers well around the rings to prevent the ropes from
dropping in case of a slack-up on the tension.
The Tricks of Camping Out
BY STILLMAN TAYLOR
PART I--The Camping Outfit
To enjoy a vacation in the woods thoroughly, it is essential that the
outer be provided with the right kind of an outfit. The inexperienced
are likely to carry too much rather than too little to the woods; to
include many unnecessary luxuries and overlook the more practical
necessities. However, camp life does not mean that one must be
uncomfortable, but rather implies plain and simple living close to
nature. An adequate shelter from the sun and rain, a comfortable bed,
a good cooking kit, and plenty of wholesome food, are the important
things to consider. No man or woman requires more, and if unwilling to
share the plain fare of the woodsman, the pampered ones should be left
at home, for the grouchy, complaining individual makes, of all persons,
the very worst of camping companions.
[Illustration: The Old Hand at the Camping Game Prefers to Cut Poles on
the Camping Site and Set Them Up on the Outside for the Camp-Fire Tent]
[Illustration: The Wall Tent may be erected with the Regular Poles, or,
When Ordered with Tapes along the Ridge, It can be Set Up with Outside
Tripod or Shear Poles]
The Choice of a Tent
There are tents and tents, but for average outings in what may be
considered a permanent camp, the regulation wall, or army, tent is
generally used to make a comfortable shelter. It is a splendid utility
tent, with generous floor space and plenty of headroom. For the
permanent camp, the wall tent is often provided with a fly, which may
be set up as an extra covering for the roof, or extended over the front
to make a kind of porch. An extension may also be purchased to serve
the same purpose. The 7 by 9-ft. wall tent will shelter two persons
comfortably, but when the camp is seldom moved, the 9 by 12-ft. size,
with a 3¹⁄₂-ft. wall, will afford more room. The regulation 8-oz. duck
is heavy enough, or the same tent may be obtained in tan or dark green
khaki, if preferred. In any case the tent should have a sod cloth, from
6 to 12 in. wide, extending around the bottom and sewed to the tent. An
extra piece of canvas or floor cloth is desirable, but this as well as
the fly are extras, and while convenient, are by no means necessary.
The wall tent may be erected with the regular poles, or it may be
ordered with tapes along the ridge and erected by suspending between
two trees. The old hand at the camping game rarely uses the shop poles
supplied with most tents, but prefers to cut them at the camping site
and rig them up on the outside, one slender pole fastened with tapes
along the ridge and supported at either end in the crotch formed by
setting up two poles, tripod or shear-fashion.
The “Baker” style is a popular tent, giving a large sleeping capacity,
yet folding compactly. The 7 by 7-ft. size, with a 2-ft. wall, makes a
good comfortable home for two, and will shelter three, or even four, if
required. The entire front may be opened to the fire by extending it
to form an awning, or it may be thrown back over the ridge to form an
open-front lean-to shelter.
The “Dan Beard,” or camp-fire, tent is a modification of the Baker
style, having a slightly steeper pitch, with a smaller front opening.
The dimensions are practically the same as the Baker, and it may be
pitched by suspending between two trees, by outside poles, or the
regular poles may be used.
For traveling light by canoe or pack, a somewhat lighter and less bulky
form of tent than the above styles may be chosen, and the woodsman is
likely to select the forester’s or ranger types. The ranger is a half
tent with a 2-ft. wall and the entire front is open; in fact, this
is the same as the Baker tent without the flap. If desired, two half
ranger tents with tapes may be purchased and fastened together to form
an A, or wedge, tent. This makes a good tent for two on a hike, as each
man carries his own half, and is assured a good shelter in case one
becomes separated from his companion, and a tight shelter when the two
make camp together.
The forester’s tent is another good one, giving good floor space and
folding up very compactly, a 9 by 9-ft. tent weighing about 5¹⁄₂ lb.
when made of standard-weight fabric. It may be had either with or
without hood, and is quickly erected by using three small saplings, one
along the ridge, running from peak to ground, and one on each side of
the opening, to form a crotch to support the ridge pole, shear-fashion.
These tents are not provided with sod or floor cloths, although these
may be ordered as extras if wanted.
The canoe or “protean” tents are good styles for the camper who
travels light and is often on the move. The canoe tent has a circular
front, while the protean style is made with a square front, and the
wall is attached to the back and along the two sides. Both tents are
quickly set up, either with a single inside pole or with two poles set
shear-fashion on the outside. A 9 by 9-ft. canoe or protean tent with a
3-ft. wall makes a comfortable home in the open.
Whatever style of tent is chosen, it is well to pay a fair price and
obtain a good quality of material and workmanship. The cheaper tents
are made of heavier material to render them waterproof, while the
better grades are fashioned from light-weight fabric of close weave
and treated with a waterproofing process. Many of the cheaper tents
will give fair service, but the workmanship is often poor, the grommets
are apt to pull out, and the seams rip after a little hard use. All
tents should be waterproofed, and each provided with a bag in which to
pack it. An ordinary tent may be waterproofed in the following manner:
Dissolve ¹⁄₂ lb. of ordinary powdered alum in 4 gal. of hot rain water,
and in a separate bucket dissolve ¹⁄₂ lb. of acetate of lead--sugar of
lead--in 4 gal. of hot rain water. The acetate of lead is poisonous if
taken internally. When thoroughly dissolved, let the solution stand
until clear, then pour the alum solution into a tub and add the lead
solution. Let the solution stand for an hour or two, then pour off the
clear water and thoroughly soak the fabric in the waterproofing mixture
by rubbing and working the material with the hands. Hang the cloth up
without wringing it out.
[Illustration: The Forester’s Tent is Quickly Erected by Using Three
Small Saplings, One along the Ridge, and One on Each Side of the
Opening to Form a Crotch for the Ridge Pole
The Ranger’s or Hiker’s Tent Comes in Halves. Each Half may be Used
Independently as a Lean-To Shelter for One Man, or Both Joined Together
to Make Room for Two Persons
The Canoe or Protean Tents Are Good Styles for the Camper Who Travels
Light and Is Often on the Move, and They can be Quickly Set Up with a
Single Inside Pole]
How to Pitch a Tent
It is, of course, possible to pitch a tent almost anywhere, but for the
sake of comfort, it is well to select a site with natural drainage.
Many campers dig a shallow trench around the tent to prevent water from
running in during a heavy rain. This is a good idea for the permanent
camp, but is not often necessary if the soil is sandy or porous, or
where a sod cloth is used.
It is rarely necessary to carry the regular poles to the camping
ground, and they may be omitted excepting when en route to a treeless
region. The wall and other large tents may be pitched in several ways.
In some places the woodsman cuts a straight ridge pole, about 3 ft.
longer than the tent, and two crotched uprights, 1 ft. or more longer
than the height of the tent. The ridge pole is passed through the
opening in the peak of the tent, or fastened to the outside of the
ridge with tapes sewed to the cloth. The two upright stakes are then
firmly planted in the ground, one at the back and the other in front,
and the ridge pole is lifted and dropped into these crotched supports.
Set up the four corner guys first to get the tent in shape, then peg
down the side guys and slide them taut so that all of them will exert
an even pull on the tent. Another good method for setting up the side
guys is to drive four crotched stakes, each about 4 ft. long, somewhere
near 3 ft. from each corner of the tent, and drop a fairly heavy pole
in the rest so formed, then fasten the guy ropes to this pole. When a
sod cloth is provided it is turned under on the inside, the floor cloth
is spread over it and the camp duffel distributed along the walls of
the tent, to hold it down and prevent insects and rain from entering.
To overcome the disadvantage of placing the poles in the center of the
entrance, the uprights may be formed by lashing two poles together near
the top to make a crotch and spreading the bottoms to form a pair of
shears. Poles may be dispensed with entirely, providing the tent is
ordered with tapes for attaching a rope to suspend the ridge of the
tent between two trees. In a wooded country this manner of setting a
tent is generally preferred.
Where a wall tent is used in a more permanent camp, it is a good plan
to order a fly, a couple of sizes larger than the tent. This should be
set up by using separate poles and rigged some 6 or 8 in. higher than
the ridge of the tent, thus affording an air space to temper the heat
of the sun and also serving to keep things dry during long, heavy rains.
The Camping Kit
The camping kit, including the few handy articles needed in the woods,
as well as the bedding and cooking outfit, may be either elaborate
or simple, according to the personal experience and ideas of the
camper. In making up a list, it is a good plan to remember that only
comparatively few articles are really essential for a comfortable
vacation in the wilderness. A comfortable bed must be reckoned one of
the chief essentials, and one may choose the de-luxe couch--the air
mattress or sleeping pocket--use the ordinary sleeping bag, or court
slumber on one of the several other styles of camp beds. The fold-over
combination bed, the stretcher bed, or a common bag made of ticking,
6¹⁄₂ ft. long by 2 ft. wide, which is stuffed with browse or leaves,
will suffice for the average person. Folding camp cots, chairs, tables,
and other so-called camp furniture, have their places in the large,
fixed camps, but the woodsman can manage to live comfortably without
them. A good pair of warm blankets should be included for each person,
providing the sleeping bag is not taken along. The regulation army
blankets are a good choice and reasonable in price, or the blankets
used at home may be pressed into service.
A good ax is the woodsman’s everyday companion, and a good-weight tool,
weighing 3 or 4 lb., and a smaller one of 1¹⁄₂ lb. should be carried.
When going light, the belt ax will suffice.
The oil lantern is only suited for the fixed camp, since the fuel is
difficult to transport unless it is placed in screw-top cans. The
“Stonbridge” and other folding candle lanterns are the most convenient
for the woods and give sufficient light for camp life.
The aluminum cooking outfits are light in weight, nest compactly, and
will stand many years of hard usage, but like other good things, they
are somewhat expensive. A good substitute, at half the price, may be
obtained in tin and steel, having the good feature of nesting within
each other, but, of course, not being quite so light nor so attractive
in appearance as the higher-priced outfits. Both the aluminum and
steel outfits are put up in canvas carrying bags, and an outfit for
two includes a large and a small cooking pot coffee pot; frying pan
with folding or detachable handle; two plates; cups knives; forks, and
spoons. Outfits may be bought for any number of persons and almost all
sporting-goods stores carry them. The two-man outfit in heavy aluminum
will cost $9 or $10, while the same outfit duplicated in steel is
priced at $3.35.
[Illustration: The Stretcher Bed may be Stuffed with Browse or Leaves,
or Suspended from Poles and Stakes to Make a Camp Cot]
[Illustration: Food Bags with Friction-Top Tins to Fit Them, in Which
Lard, Butter, Pork, Ham, and Other Greasy Necessities are Carried]
[Illustration: A Pack Basket with a Waterproof Canvas Lid and Cover,
Having Straps to Go over the Shoulders, Is a General Favorite with
Woodsmen and Guides]
[Illustration: When Going Light the Belt Ax is Used]
[Illustration: The Compass Is by Far the Most Useful Instrument for the
Woods, but Any Reliable and Inexpensive Watch may be Carried]
[Illustration: A Good, Tempered Knife Should be Worn at the Belt]
[Illustration: The Cooking Kit may be of Aluminum or Steel, All Nesting
within the Largest Pot, and may Include a Folding Baker, or Reflector,
with Bread Board in Canvas Bag, a Wood Salt Box, and a Water-Tight Can
for Matches]
[Illustration: Folding Candle Lanterns are the Most Convenient for the
Woods and They Give Sufficient Light for Camp Life]
The Camper’s Outfit
The personal outfit should include only the most useful articles, and
each member of the party should be provided with a dunnage bag of
canvas to hold bedding and clothing, and a smaller, or “ditty,” bag
for keeping together the toilet and other personal belongings which
most everyone finds necessary for everyday comfort. A mending kit,
containing a few yards of silk, linen, and twist; a length of mending
cotton; buttons; a few needles and pins, both safety and the common
kinds, should not be overlooked. The veteran usually stows away a bit
of wire; a length of strong twine; a few nails and tacks; rivets, etc.,
for emergency use, and it is surprising to the novice how handy these
several odds and ends are found while in camp. A compact tin box will
form a convenient place to keep them and will take up little room in
the dunnage bag. A medicine case and a first-aid outfit are well worth
packing; the smallest cases containing a few of the common remedies
will fully meet the camper’s needs.
When carrying food by canoe or pack basket, the canoe duffel and
provision bags are a great convenience, enabling the outer to carry
different foodstuffs in a compact and sanitary manner. Food bags may be
had in different sizes, and friction-top tins may be purchased to fit
them; and one or more of these liquid-proof containers are desirable
for transporting lard, butter, pork, ham, and other greasy necessities.
The food bags slip into the larger duffel bags, making a very compact
bundle for stowing away in a canoe or pack harness.
Carrying List for the Camp Outfit
For permanent camps, take the wall tent with fly, although the Baker
or camp-fire styles are also good. When traveling light by canoe, the
canoe or protean tents are recommended. When going very light by pack,
use the forester’s or ranger’s tent. Sod and floor cloths and mosquito
netting are optional.
The cooking kit may be of aluminum or steel, all nesting within the
largest pot. Include a folding baker, or reflector, with bread board in
a canvas bag, a wood salt box, and a water-tight can for matches.
Furniture for the permanent camp consists of a full-sized ax,
double-blade or tomahawk style with straight handle, in a protecting
case, whetstone and file for keeping the ax in shape. A shovel and saw
will be needed when a cabin is built. A canteen may be included, but
is not required on most trips. A folding candle lantern is the best
for the average trip, but an oil, or acetylene, lantern may be used in
a fixed camp. Cots, folding chairs, tables, hangers, etc., are only
useful in fixed camps.
A pack basket with a waterproof-canvas lid and cover, having straps to
go over the shoulders, is a general favorite with woodsmen and guides.
Canvas packs or dunnage bags may be used if preferred. There are two
sizes of food bags, one holding 5 lb. and another of 10-lb. capacity,
with draw-strings at the top, and these are the best for carrying
provisions.
Pack harness, with a tumpline to go across the forehead, is needed when
the outfit must be carried on portages, etc. This may be omitted when
pack baskets are used. Packing cases of fiber may be used for shipping
the outfit to the camping ground, but ordinary trunks, or wood boxes,
will answer as well.
The Personal Outfit
An old ordinary suit that is not worn too thin is sufficient. Corduroy
is too heavy for the summer and too cold for winter, and canvas is
too stiff and noisy for the woods. Cotton khaki is excellent for
the summer, and all-wool khaki, or mackinaw, coat and trousers are
comfortable for winter. Wool is the best material for undergarments in
all seasons. Two sets of garments will be sufficient, as the washing
is done at night. Be sure to have the garments large enough to allow
for shrinkage. Light-weight cashmere is the best material for socks
during summer, and heavier weight for the winter. Three pairs of
ordinary-weight and one pair of heavy-weight will be sufficient. A
medium-weight gray-flannel overshirt, with breast pockets having button
flaps, is the woodsman’s choice. On short and light trips one shirt
will do. A light-weight, all-wool gray or brown, sweater is a good
thing to carry along, it is easily wetted through and a famous brier
catcher, yet most woodsmen carry one.
The regulation army poncho is more suited to the woods than a rubber
coat or oilskins. The larger-size poncho is more bulky to pack, but may
be used as a shelter by rigging it up with poles, lean-to fashion. A
poncho makes a good ground blanket also.
A medium wide-brimmed hat, in gray or brown, is better than a cap. A
gray, or brown, silk handkerchief should be included to wear around the
neck to protect it from the sun and cold. Only few novices will carry
one, but not so with the regular woodsman, The moccasin is the only
suitable footwear for the woods. The “puckaway,” with extra sole, is
known to most woodsmen. A pair of larrigans--ankle-high moccasins with
single sole--are suitable to wear about the camp.
Each member of the party carries his own knapsack, or ditty bag,
in which such things as brush and comb, toothbrush, razor, towel,
medicines, stationery, etc., are kept. The extra clothing is carried in
its own canvas bag.
Each member of the party carries a pair of woolen blankets. Army
blankets in tan color are serviceable and inexpensive.
A good, tempered knife should be worn at the belt, preferably one
without a hilt and having a blade 5 or 6 in. long.
A small leather pouch containing a few common remedies, such as
quinine, laxative, etc.; and a small first-aid outfit should be
included in each camper’s personal pack. Also a small leather pouch
containing an assortment of needles, darning cotton, buttons, and a
length of heavy silk twist is a handy companion.
A few sheets of paper and as many envelopes, a notebook, pencil, and a
few postal cards, are usually carried, together with an almanac page of
the months covering the intended trip.
The compass is by far the most useful instrument in the woods, but any
reliable and inexpensive watch may be carried.
Many woodsmen carry a small hatchet at the belt, and on trips when but
the few necessities are carried the belt ax takes the place of the
heavier-weight tool. The tomahawk style gives two cutting edges and is
therefore the best tool to carry. A leather or other covering case is
needed to protect the blades.
A small tin box containing an assortment of rivets; tacks; a bit of
string; brass wire; a few nails; a couple of small files; a tool holder
with tools; a sheet of sandpaper; a bit of emery cloth, and any other
small articles which the sportsman fancies will come in handy, may be
carried. It is surprising how often this “what not” is resorted to
while in the woods.
The odds and ends of personal belongings, as a jackknife; pipe and
tobacco; map of the region visited; length of fishing line and hook; a
few loose matches; match box; purse; notebook and pencil; handkerchief,
etc., are, of course, carried in the pocket of the coat.
A Camper’s Salt-and-Pepper Holder
[Illustration]
A camper will find a very clever way to carry salt and pepper by using
a piece cut from a joint of bamboo. A piece is selected with the joint
in the center, and the ends are stoppered with corks.
A Simple Self-Contained Motor
To say that the subject of this article is the simplest motor in the
world is not to overestimate it, for the apparatus is not only a motor
reduced to its essential elements, but combines within itself its own
source of electric power, all without the use of a single piece of
wire. The experiment is very interesting and instructive and will well
repay a careful construction along the lines indicated, even though not
in strict accordance with the dimensions given.
The first step is to procure a permanent magnet, about ³⁄₈ in. in
diameter and 6 in. long. If such a magnet cannot be conveniently
secured, a piece of tool steel with flat ends should be hardened by
heating it to a dull red and plunging it in water, and then strongly
magnetized. This may be readily accomplished by slipping a coil of
insulated wire over it through which the current from a storage battery
or set of primary cells is passed. If these are not at hand, almost any
electrical supply store will magnetize the steel.
[Illustration]
A square base block with neatly beveled corners is now in order, which
is trimmed up squarely and a hole bored centrally through it to receive
the lower end of the magnet. Procure a neat spool and make a hole in it
large enough to pass over the magnet. Glue the spool to the base after
locating it in the exact center.
The outer and larger cylinder is of copper, or of brass, copperplated
on the inside. It is cup-shaped, with a hole in the bottom just large
enough to permit the magnet to be pushed through with a close fit,
to make a good electrical contact. The magnet may be held in place
by having it closely fit the spool and the copper cylinder, and by
soldering the heads of a couple of small tacks, or nails, to its under
side and driving them into the spool. Coat the magnet with pitch, or
paraffin, from the top down, and around its connection with the bottom
of the cylinder. The small thimble shown at the top should be of brass
or copper, and while one can be easily formed of sheet metal and
soldered, it is not improbable that one could be made in seamless form
from small article of commerce. In the exact center of the under side
of the top of this thimble, make a good mark with a prickpunch, after
which a small steel thumb tack should be filed to a fine needle point
and placed, point up, exactly central on the upper end of the magnet,
to which it is held with a little wax. The smaller cylinder is simply
a piece of sheet zinc bent into a true cylinder of such a size that
it may be sprung over the lower end of the thimble. This done, it is
only necessary to slip the zinc over the end of the magnet until the
thimble rests on the thumb tack, and then pour some dilute muriatic
or sulphuric acid into the outer cylinder after which the thimble and
attached zinc will begin to rotate. The required strength of the acid
and the resulting speed will depend upon the nicety of suspension and
the trueness of the rotating zinc cylinder. The zinc will have to be
changed, but the copper undergoes no deterioration.
The Tricks of Camping Out
BY STILLMAN TAYLOR
PART II--Cooking in the Woods
Cooking in the woods requires more of a knack than equipment, and while
a camp stove is well enough in a permanent camp, its weight and bulk
makes this article of camp furniture unsuited for transportation by
canoe. Patent cooking grates are less bulky, but the woodsman can learn
to do without them very nicely. However, the important item which few
woodsmen care to do without is the folding baker, or reflector. The
baker is folded flat and carried in a canvas case, including baking
pan and a kneading board. The largest size, with an 18-in. square
pan, weighs about 5 lb., and the smallest, with an 8 by 12-in. pan in
aluminum, only 2 lb. In use, the reflector is placed with the open side
close to the fire, and cooking is accomplished evenly and well in any
kind of weather. Bread, fish, game, or meat are easily and perfectly
cooked, and the smaller size is amply large for a party of two or three.
[Illustration: A Cooking Range Fashioned from Two Green Logs Laid in a
V-Shape with a Few Stones Built Up at the Wide End over Which a Fire is
Made of Hard-Wood Sticks]
The camp fire is one of the charms of the open, and if it is built
right and of the best kind of wood, cooking may be done over it as
well as over a forest range. Many woodsmen prefer to build a second
and smaller fire for cooking, and although I have never found this
necessary, excepting in large camps where a considerable quantity of
food must be prepared, the camper can suit himself, for experimenting
is, after all, a large part of the fun of living in and off the woods.
A satisfactory outdoor cooking range may be fashioned by roughly
smoothing the top and bottom sides of two green logs, and placing them
about 6 in. apart at one end and about 2 ft. apart at the opposite end.
At the wide end a few stones are built up, and across these, hickory,
ash, and other sticks of hard wood are placed. The reflector is placed
close to the coals at this end, and the fire is built between the logs,
the broiling and frying being done at the narrow-end opening. Woods
that burn slowly when green should be used for backlogs and end logs;
chestnut, red oak, butternut, red maple, and persimmon being best
adapted for this purpose.
The hard woods are best for cooking and heating, since they burn
more slowly, and give out considerable heat and burn down to a body
of glowing coals. Soft woods are quick to catch fire, burn rapidly,
and make a hot fire, but burn down to dead ashes. Hickory is by far
the best firewood of the North, in that it makes a hot fire, is
long-burning, and forms a large body of coals that gives an even
and intense heat for a considerable length of time. Next to hickory
comes chestnut; the basket oaks, ironwood, dogwood, and ash are the
woodsman’s favorites. Among the woods that are easy to split are the
red oak, basket oak, white oak, ash, and white birch. Some few woods
split more easily when green than after seasoning, and among them are
hickory, dogwood, beech, sugar maple, birch, and elm. The most stubborn
woods to split are the elder, blue ash, cherry, sour gum, hemlock,
sweet gum, and sycamore. Of the softer woods, the birches make the
best fuel; black birch in particular makes a fine camp fire, and it is
one of the few woods that burns well when green. The dry bark of the
hemlock makes a quick and hot fire, and white birch takes fire quickly
even though moist. Driftwood is good to start a fire with, and dry pine
knots--the limb stubs of a dead pine tree--are famous kindlers. Green
wood will, of course, burn better in winter when the sap is dormant,
and trees found on high ground make better fuel than those growing in
moist bottom lands. Hard woods are more plentiful on high ground, while
the softer woods are found in abundance along the margins of streams.
[Illustration: A Green Pole Placed in a Forked Stick Provides a Pot
Hanger for a Noonday Meal]
For cooking the noonday meal a small fire will suffice to boil the pot
and furnish the heat sufficient to make a fry. Simply drive a forked
stick in the ground and lay a green stick in the fork with the opposite
end on the ground with a rock laid on it to keep it down, and hang
the pot on the projecting stub left for this purpose. A long stick
with projecting stubs, planted in the ground to slant over the fire at
an angle, will serve as well. Let the pot hang about 2 ft. from the
ground, collect an armful of dry twigs and plenty of larger kindling
sticks. Now shave three or four of the larger sticks and leave the
shavings on the ends, stand them up beneath the pot, tripod fashion,
and place the smaller sticks around them to build a miniature wigwam.
While the pot is boiling get a couple of bed chunks, or andirons, 4 or
5 in. in diameter, set and level these on each side of the fire, and
put the frying pan on them. When the pot has boiled there will be a
nice bed of coals for frying that will not smoke the meal.
When the woodsman makes “one-night stands,” he will invariably build
the fire and start the kettle boiling while he or a companion stakes
the tent, and as soon as the meal is prepared, a pot of water is
started boiling for dish washing.
For roasting and baking with the reflector, a rather high fire is
needed and a few sticks, a yard or more long, resting upright against
a backlog or rock, will throw the heat forward. When glowing coals are
wanted one can take them from the camp fire, or split uniform billets
of green, or dead, wood about 2 in. thick and pile them in the form of
a hollow square, or crib. The fire is built in the center of the crib
and more parallel sticks are laid on top until it is a foot or more
higher. The crib will act as a chimney, and a roaring fire will result,
which upon burning down will give a glowing mass of coals.
Camp cookery implies the preparation of the more simple and nutritious
foods, and in making up a list it is well to include only the more
staple foodstuffs, which are known to have these qualities. Personal
ideas are certain to differ greatly, but the following list may be
depended upon and will serve as a guide.
Provision List
This list of material will be sufficient for two persons on an outing
of two weeks. Carry in a stout canvas food bag 12 lb. of common wheat
flour. The self-raising kind is good, but the common flour is better.
It is well to bring a little yellow, or white, corn meal, about 6 lb.,
to be served as a johnny cake, hot, cold, or fried mush. It is fine
for rolling a fish in for frying. Rice is very nutritious, easily
digested, and easy to cook. It is good when boiled with raisins. When
cold, it can be fried in slices. About 3 lb. will be sufficient.
Oatmeal is less sustaining than rice, but it is good for porridge,
or sliced when cold and fried. Take along about 3 lb. About 2 lb. of
the self-raising buckwheat flour should be taken along, as it is the
favorite for flapjacks or griddle cakes. Beans are very nutritious,
and about 2 lb. of the common baking kind will be required, to boil
or bake with the salt pork. For soups, take 2 lb. of split peas. They
can also be served as a vegetable. Salt pork is a stand-by, and 5 lb.
of it is provided and carried in friction-top tins or a grease-proof
bag. It should be parboiled before adding to the beans or when fried
like bacon. The regulation meat of the wilderness is bacon, and 5 lb.
of it is carried in a tin or bag. Carry along 3 lb. of lard in a tin
or bag, for bread-making and frying. About 3 lb. of butter is carried
in a friction-top tin. For making rice puddings, take along 1 lb. of
raisins. About 1 lb. of shredded codfish is good for making fish balls.
Other small articles, such as ¹⁄₂ lb. of tea; 1 lb. of coffee; 3 lb.
of granulated sugar; 1 pt. of molasses; 1 pt. of vinegar; 4 cans of
condensed milk; 1 can of milk powder, a good substitute for fresh milk;
1 can egg powder, good for making omelets or can be scrambled; 1 lb.
salt; 2 oz. pepper; 1 package each of evaporated potatoes, onions, and
fruits, and 3 packages of assorted soup tablets.
This list is by no means complete, but it will suffice for the average
person on the average trip, since the occasional addition of a fish or
game will help to replenish the stores. When going very light by pack,
only the most compact and nutritious foods should be selected, while on
short, easy trips the addition of canned goods will supply a greater
variety.
Woodcraft
[Illustration: A Limb Supported at an Angle over the Fire Is Another
Means of Hanging the Pot]
While shooting and fishing and camping out are chapters in the book of
woodcraft, the word is generally defined to mean the knack of using the
compass, the map, and in making use of the natural signs of the woods
when traveling in the wilderness. If the camper keeps to the beaten
paths and does not stray far from the frequently used waterways, he
needs no compass, and sufficient knowledge of the ways of the woods may
be acquired from the previous articles, but if the outer ventures into
an unknown region the value of more intimate knowledge increases as the
distance to civilization lengthens, because it will enable him to keep
traveling in the desired direction and prevent the “insane desire to
circle,” should one discover he has lost the trail.
The Emergency “Snack” and Kit
The woodsman well knows that it is an easy matter to stray farther from
camp than he intended to when starting out, and that it is a common
enough occurrence to lose one’s bearings and become temporarily lost.
To prepare for this possible emergency and spend a comfortable night
away from the camp, he carries in his pocket a little packet of useful
articles and stows away a tiny package containing a small amount of
nutritious food. When leaving camp for a day’s hunting and fishing,
the usual lunch is, of course, included, but in addition to this, the
woodsman should carry a couple of soup tablets, a piece of summer
sausage, and some tea. Wrap this in oiled silk, and pack it in a flat
tin box. It will take up very little room in the pocket.
The emergency kit is merely a small leather pouch containing a short
fishing line; a few fishing hooks; 1 ft. of surgeon’s adhesive plaster;
needle and thread; a few safety pins, and a small coil of copper or
brass wire. These articles, with the gun and a few spare cartridges, or
rod; a belt knife; match safe; compass; map; a little money, pipe, and
tobacco, make up the personal outfit without which few woodsmen care to
venture far from camp. In addition to the above, I carry a double-edge,
light-weight ax, or tomahawk, in a leather sheath at the belt and a
tin cup strung to the back of the belt, where it is out of the way and
unnoticed until wanted.
The Compass
A small pocket compass affixed to a leather thong should be carried in
the breast pocket and fastened to a button of the shirt. An instrument
costing $1 will be accurate enough for all purposes. Many of the
woodsmen as well as the Indians do not use a compass, but even the
expert woodsman gets lost sometimes, and it may happen that the sun is
obscured by clouds, thus making it more difficult to read the natural
signs of the wilderness. The compass is of little value if a person
does not know how to use it. It will not tell in what direction to go,
but when the needle is allowed to swing freely on its pivot the blue
end always points to the magnetic north. The true north lies a degree
or more to either side. In the West, for instance, the needle will be
attracted a trifle to the east, while on the Atlantic coast it will
swing a trifle to the west of the true north. This magnetic variation
need not be taken into account by the woodsman, who may consider it
to point to the true north, for absolute accuracy is not required
for this purpose. However, I would advise the sportsman to take the
precaution of scratching on the back of the case these letters, B = N,
meaning blue equals north. If this is done, the novice will be certain
to remember and read the compass right no matter how confused he may
become on finding that he has lost his way. The watch may be used as a
compass on a clear day by pointing the hour hand to the sun, when the
point halfway between the hour hand and 12 will be due south.
[Illustration]
The compass needle is attracted to iron and steel, therefore keep it
away from the gun, hatchet, knife, and other metal articles. Hold the
compass level and press the stop, if it has one, so that the needle
may swing free. Note some landmark, as a prominent tree, high cliff,
or other conspicuous object lying in the direction of travel, and go
directly to this object. Consult the compass frequently when making a
detour, or when the landmark passes out of sight. When this mark is
reached, select another farther on and continue the travel, always
picking out new marks along the line indicated by the compass. When
making camp, consult a map, study it, and so gain a good general idea
of the surrounding country; and when leaving camp, take the bearings
from the compass. By so doing a person will know in what direction
he is traveling, and when the course is changed, keep the general
direction in mind. When climbing a hill or making detours, take a
mental note of the change in direction and the bearings will not be
lost.
Maps
The maps of the U. S. Geological Survey are drawn to a scale of 2 in.
to the mile and cost 5 cents each. On the back of each map are printed
the symbols showing the character of the land, the contours, roads, and
all important rivers and lakes in the district. For convenience, the
map should be pasted on a backing of cotton cloth and then cut up into
handy sections. Number the sections from left to right and paste a key
to the pieces on the back of one of them.
Natural Signs
When traveling through underbrush the woodsman cannot see far ahead,
and so lays a true course by noting the position of the sun. For
example, here in the northern hemisphere the sun rises just south of
east and sets somewhere south of due west. Therefore, if a person
is going north, he should keep the sun on the back and to the right
shoulder in the morning hours; full on the back at noon, and on the
back and over the left shoulder throughout the afternoon.
[Illustration]
If the day is cloudy, set the point of a knife blade on the thumb
nail, twist it around until the full shadow is cast on the nail, thus
indicating the position of the sun.
The direction of the wind is apt to change and for this reason is an
unreliable guide, while the so-called signs of the woods, such as the
tips of evergreen trees pointing north, bark being thicker on the north
side of trees, or moss growing thicker on the north side of the trees,
are by no means to be depended upon. There is absolutely nothing in
these signs. However, every woodsman is aware that the foliage of trees
grows somewhat thicker on the south side, and that the branches are
rather shorter and more knotty on the north side, but these and other
signs are scarcely infallible, and if they were, few tenderfeet would
recognize them.
When traveling by night, look for the Big Dipper or Great Bear, as the
two end stars are known as the pointers, pointing to the north star.
Marking the Trail
When traveling over old and blind trails, look for the old blaze marks,
and if doubtful about them, make new ones by breaking down the brushes
every 15 or 20 ft., the bent part pointing in the direction of travel.
If a road is encountered, it is easy to tell if it is a tote or logging
road, for tote roads are crooked and wind about the trees and rocks,
while the logging road is fairly straight and broad. Of course, tote
roads lead nowhere in particular, but all logging roads are sure to
come to a fork and lead to water. When breaking a new trail, blaze it
by taking a single clip from a tree from the side it is approached, and
on the opposite side make two blazes, indicating the way from the camp.
If this is done, a person will always know the way back if the trail is
crossed from side to side. This is the rule of the wilderness, but is
not always observed to the letter, for many woodsmen blaze their trail
by clipping the trees as they pass them. Be sure to blaze your own
trail correctly, and when you come to a place where two roads or trails
fork, set a stick to indicate the right direction.
[Illustration: Note Some Landmark, as a Prominent Tree, High Cliff,
or Other Conspicuous Object Lying in the Direction of Travel and Go
Directly to the Object, and Look for the Old Blaze Marks]
When a person becomes lost in the woods, as every woodsman is sure to
do sometimes, sit down and think it over. Many times a person is nearer
camp and companions than it is possible to realize, and if a straight
direction is taken, a lumber road or a stream will be found that will
give one his bearings. Above all, do not become frightened. If the
emergency kit and lunch have not been forgotten, a day and night in
the woods alone is not a hardship by any means. Avoid wasting energy
by rushing madly about and forgetting to blaze the trail that is being
made. Bend the points of the brushes down in the direction of travel
Do not shoot the last cartridge to attract attention, and do not shout
until hoarse. Sit down and build a fire of green wood, damp leaves or
moss, so that it will smoke. Build a second fire a short distance from
the first. This is the recognized signal of the one who is lost. The
afternoon may be windy but the wind is certain to die away at sundown,
and the smoke rising from the fires will be visible from a considerable
distance. When an Indian gets lost he merely camps on the spot and
awaits the next day for picking up the trail.
A Camp Water Bag
[Illustration]
While out on a camping trip I devised a way to supply the camp with
cool water. A strip of heavy canvas was cut about 2 ft. long and 1
ft. wide, and the edges were sewed up to make a sack 1 ft. square. In
the upper corner a large porcelain knob insulator was sewed in for a
mouth piece; the groove around it made a water-tight joint with the
cloth. Two metal rings were sewed in the cloth at the top for attaching
a strap to carry it. The side and top seams were made as tight as
possible.
In use this sack was filled with as cool water as possible and tightly
corked. It was then hung in the shade where a breeze would strike it.
The water gradually seeped through the cloth and this, in evaporating,
kept the contents cool. This sack also came in handy while fishing or
on the road.--Contributed by Earl Zander, Three Rivers, Mich.
A Mold for Making Hollow Candy Figures
[Illustration: One-Half of a Mold Cut in Metal and Used in Pairs to
Make Hollow Candy Objects]
Those semitransparent candies made up in the shapes of animals which
are brought out for the holidays and are so dear to the children have
caused many to desire to know how they are made hollow. It is a little
trick of the candymaker, which is perfectly clear to mechanics. The
candies are cast in metal molds just as babbitt bearings are cast for
motor cars. One-half of such a mold is shown in the sketch. A concave
recess in the face gives the shape of a horse, dog, or sheep, and
another half with a similar recess is laid on and located with two
dowels. In use the halves are set on a table resting on the back face
A, the hot liquid is poured in at B until the mold is full, then it is
allowed to set for a minute, during which the portion in contact with
the cold metal hardens, whereupon the mold is turned over and the still
liquid center is poured out. This leaves a glossy surface like candy, a
delight to the child, that saves money for the maker and because of its
thin walls makes eating easy.
Ornamenting an Old Tree Stump
[Illustration]
An old stump remaining after cutting down a large tree in front of a
house was made into an ornamental object in the following manner: A
cap was made of concrete, reinforced with a square piece of netting.
A concrete vase was made and set on the cap. It is only necessary to
make a square box from a few scrap boards of the desired size, built up
around the stump top. A neat mixture of cement is made and poured in
around it, and allowed to set.
Marker for a Hat
[Illustration]
A quick and convenient way of marking a hat is to take a visiting card
and cut it down in the manner shown in the illustration, then make
two small slits in the sweatband of the hat and insert the ends of
the card. If the card becomes soiled it can be easily replaced with
another. The address can be added if desired.--Contributed by James F.
Hatch, Raleigh, N. C.
A Quickly Made Door Latch
[Illustration]
A door latch that is efficient as well as simple may be made by bending
a piece of iron rod and pointing one end, as shown in the illustration,
then securing it to the door with staples; or small rods may be bent
in the shape of a staple and the ends threaded for nuts. The door is
locked by turning the handle in the position shown by the dotted lines
and securing it with a padlock.--Contributed by Claud M. Sessions,
Waynesville, Ill.
An Electric Lure for Fish
Every good fisherman knows that a light will attract fish. A simple
light can be made by taking a pint fruit jar, putting a ¹⁄₄-in. hole
in the top of the cover, inserting a piece of gas pipe in the hole and
soldering it to the cover. Insulated wires are run through the pipe,
and a small electric globe is attached to the ends in the jar. The
other ends of the wires are attached to a pocket battery. The jar is
placed under water and the light turned on, which attracts the fish.
A Table Box for Campers
BY GEO. J. EASTER
A very useful combination packing box and camp table may be made
from a coffee or other large box. If a box with a three-ply top is
available, it makes a neat appearance, but this is not essential. A
box, 14 in. deep, 20 in. wide, and 29 in. long, outside measurements,
is convenient, as it will slip under the seat of a spring wagon, and is
of such a size that a person’s knees will pass under it when used as a
table.
[Illustration: FIG. 1
FIG. 2
The Strips in the Corners of the Boxes Form Sockets for the Legs]
Saw the box in two on the center line of the narrow way, making two
uncovered boxes of the same size and depth. The corners of each box
should be well braced on the outside, as shown at A, Fig. 1. The strips
B are fastened to the inside of the box to form sockets, C, for the
legs. The strips are ¹⁄₂ in. thick, 1¹⁄₄ in. wide, and as long as the
box is deep. Four legs, about 12 in. long and of such size as to fit in
the sockets, are used for holding the boxes together in transit. Rope
handles are fastened in the ends of each box, and also a hook and eye,
which are used to lock them together.
To pack the boxes place one half open side up, and insert the legs, as
shown in Fig. 2. Then fill it and extend the packing to the level of
the leg ends; slip the other half of the box on the legs, and fasten
the two with the hooks. If properly roped, such a box will be taken as
baggage. Canvas, and other articles which will be removed at once upon
arrival in camp, rather than provisions, should be packed in this box,
so that it can be converted into a table with the least possible work.
To make one table, or two, of the box, remove the packing legs and
insert long legs in the sockets of each section. A set of eight legs,
30 in. long, take up very little space, and can be carried diagonally
in the bottom of the box. A piece of oilcloth can be wrapped around
them and used later as a cover for the table. The legs should fit
loosely in the sockets to provide for the swelling in damp weather.
Ordinarily they can be wedged to make them rigid. The table is shown in
Fig. 3.
[Illustration: FIG. 3
Each Half of the Box Inverted is Used as a Table Top on the Legs]
Novel Homemade Picture Frames
Pictures can be mounted cheaply and artistically on stiff paper, to
make them serviceable for decorating the summer home or camp cottage,
without having them placed in a wooden frame. For this purpose a
“natural-surface” drawing paper should be used, each sheet being
sufficiently large to allow a border all around. With the picture
properly centered and marked off, the frame can be fixed. Sets of
parallel slots can be cut all around in the border, and a suitable
ribbon drawn through so that it is held in place only by the narrow
strips of paper. On each of the four corners, a rosette, or similar
decoration, can be placed. Ribbons harmonizing with the subject of the
picture should be used; for example, a marine scene could have a blue
ribbon; fields and brooks, some shade of green; while flowers would
probably be best set off by some delicate pink shade.
[Illustration: The Edges of Cardboard Extending Out from a Picture Made
to Represent a Frame]
Another means of decorating the border is to choose some appropriate
illustration from a newspaper, or magazine, and carefully trace this
outline with carbon paper all around the frame. These figures could
then be colored as desired. Profile pictures are best for such work,
as they are most easily traced. To be in harmony with the picture,
cuts such as captains, sailors, or ships would be suitable for marine
scenes; soldiers and guns, for war scenes; and trees or flowers, for
landscapes.--Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.
Rectangular Opening to Use over Camera View Finder
[Illustration: The Rectangular Opening Allows Only That Portion of the
View to be Seen Which will Show on the Picture]
Ordinary view finders on cameras, having the cut-out in the shape of a
Maltese cross, are quite confusing to some camera users. To overcome
this difficulty, I cut a piece of celluloid to the shape shown,
and in taking a picture, the proper opening is held over the view
finder so that only the view that will appear in the picture can be
seen.--Contributed by E. Everett Buchanan, Elmira, N. Y.
Clipping File Made of Envelopes
[Illustration: The Flaps Hold All the Envelopes Together, Producing a
File of Several Compartments]
Handy pockets for holding notes, or small articles, may be made by
anyone from ordinary envelopes. The gummed flaps of the envelopes are
stuck together after spacing the envelopes to allow a small margin
at the end on which the contents of each separate pocket may be
written.--Contributed by H. Goodacre, Wolcott, Ind.
Handle for a Drinking Glass
Measure the bottom part of the glass and make a band of copper that
will neatly fit it. The ends of the copper can be riveted, but if a
neat job is desired, flatten or file the copper ends on a slant, and
braze or solder them together.
[Illustration]
Attach to the band an upright copper piece a little longer than
the glass is high. To this upright piece a bent piece of copper
to form a handle is riveted or soldered. The glass is set in the
band and the upper end of the vertical piece is bent over the glass
edge.--Contributed by William King, Monessen, Pa.
* * * * *
¶A simple and handy pincushion can be made of a large cork fastened
to any support or base with a nail or screw.
[Illustration]
Combination Camp-Kitchen Cabinet and Table
BY J. D. BOYLAN
The combination camp-kitchen cabinet and table is the result of not
being able to take the members of my family on an outing unless they
could have some home conveniences on the trip, and perhaps the sketch
and description may help solve the same problem for others. The table
will accommodate four persons comfortably, and extra compartments may
be added if desired. The cabinet, when closed, is strong and compact,
and if well made with a snug-fitting cover, is bug-proof, and the
contents will not be injured greatly, even though drenched by rain or a
mishap in a craft.
[Illustration: This Outfit Provides Accommodations for Four Persons,
and Folds Compactly]
For coffee, tea, sugar, salt, etc., I used small screw-top glass
jars. They are set in pocket shelves at both ends. When closed, one
can sit on the box or even walk on it if necessary when in the boat,
and if an armful or two of coarse marsh grass is spread over it, the
contents will keep quite cool, even when out in the hot sun. When open
for use, the metal table top F is supported on metal straps, E, which
also act as braces and supports for the table leaf, G, on each side of
the box. This affords plenty of table surface and one can easily get
at the contents of the cabinet while cooking or eating. The legs, D,
are stored inside of the box when closed for traveling. They are held
in place under metal straps when in use, and held at their upper ends
by the metal plate and blocks, B and C. The bent metal pieces, A, on
the ends of the top, spring over the blocks at B and C, and form the
handles.
A Homemade Life Buoy
A serviceable circular life buoy may be made by sewing together
rings of canvas, filling the resulting form with ground cork, and
waterproofing the covering. Cut two disks of canvas about 30 in. in
diameter, and cut out a circular portion from the center of each, about
12 in. in diameter. Sew the pieces together at their edges, leaving
a small opening at a point on the outer edge. Fill the cover with
cork used in packing grapes, and sew up the opening. Paint the buoy
thoroughly, with white lead, and attach hand grips of rope.
Locking Device for Latch Hook on Gate or Door
[Illustration]
The troublesome opening of a latch hook on a gate or door, permitting
intruders to enter or possibly injuring the door in the wind, can be
easily overcome by fitting a small catch over the hook, as indicated in
the sketch. The U-shaped locking device is cut from a piece of tin, and
fastened on the screw over which the hook is set. When locked, it is
pushed back over the head of the hook, and cannot be easily jarred out
of place.
A Vanishing-Cuff Parlor Trick
A trick which is interesting and amusing for the entertainment of the
home audience, is performed with a derby hat and a gentleman’s cuff.
The effect is produced as follows: The performer takes the derby from
his head and shows that it is empty. He removes one of his cuffs and
drops it into the hat. He tips the hat over so that the spectators
can see the inside, and the hat appears empty. He then shakes his
arm, and the white cuff reappears, whereupon he places the hat back
on his head. The explanation is simple: The white cuff, dropped into
the hat, contains a false cuff link, and the inside of the cuff is
painted black. A thread holds the cuff in shape until the latter is
dropped into the hat, when the thread is broken without the spectators
being aware of it. The cuff just fits into the hat, and its ends are
deftly snapped beneath the hatband, the hat thus appearing empty. The
duplicate cuff is kept on the forearm of the performer, and with a
shake, slides into place.--Merritt Hale, Hartford, Conn.
* * * * *
¶A little fresh developer added occasionally to old developing
solutions will bring them up in speed and intensity.
Inexpensive Table Lamp Made of Electrical-Fixture Parts
[Illustration]
A small table lamp that is light and easily portable, can be made at
a cost of less than $1 from electrical-fixture parts, either old or
purchased at a supply store for the job. The base is a bracket, with
its brass canopy inverted, as shown. The upright is a ¹⁄₈-in. brass
pipe, and it is fitted to a standard socket. The shade holder can be
made complete from a strip of tin and two wires; or adapted from a
commercial shade holder used for candlesticks. Various types of shades,
homemade if desired, can be used.
Wire Holders Keep Cabinet Doors Open
[Illustration]
Doors of cabinets often have an annoying tendency to swing shut when
articles are being removed from the shelves. To overcome this trouble
with a kitchen cabinet, I fitted brackets of No. 9 gauge wire into the
sides of the cabinet, the wire being bent to the shape shown in the
sketch. When the doors are to be held open, the wires are slid forward
from their original position, as indicated by the dotted lines, and
set in front of the doors. Before the doors are closed, the wires are
quickly snapped back into place.--A. S. Thomas, Amherstburg, Ont.,
Canada.
“Switchboard” Protects Milker from Cow’s Tail
[Illustration: The Legend Put On the “Switchboard” by the Boys Shows
How They Value It]
A simple and effective device for guarding a person milking a cow from
being hit in the face by the cow’s tail is made of a board, about 10
in. wide and 5 ft. long. This is hung by two wire hooks from a long
wire running lengthwise of the stable just over the front edge of the
gutter. It is moved along with the milker and effectually protects his
face while milking. The device was made by a Wisconsin farmer after
nearly losing the sight of an eye in being hit by a cow’s tail. He
tried tying the tails of the cows while milking them, but found by
actual test that some cows dropped down as much as 25 per cent in milk
production when their tails were tied. The “switchboard” gives the
cows the necessary freedom.--D. S. B., Wisconsin Live Stock Breeders’
Association.
Reflected-Light Illumination with Homemade Arrangement
“Friend wife” does not complain any longer because of poor light over
the kitchen stove. The windows in the kitchen were so disposed that
the light was partly shut off from the stove by the person standing
before it. I solved the difficulty in this way: A small window was cut
directly back of the stove, in a partition between the kitchen and an
adjoining storeroom, locating it just a few inches above the top of
the stove. A mirror was placed, after some experimenting, so that the
light from an outside window in the storeroom was reflected through the
small window in the partition and onto the top of the stove. Plenty of
light was thus afforded. Various adaptations of this arrangement may be
worked out.--F. E. Brimmer, Dalton, N. Y.
Bedroom Shade and Curtains Arranged for Thorough Ventilation
[Illustration: This Arrangement of Curtains and Shade Permits Through
Ventilation in the Sleeping Room]
Curtains, shades, and similar fixtures, often interfere with the proper
ventilation of sleeping rooms. By arranging these features as shown
in the sketch, the ventilation is not interfered with, and the shades
and curtains give the same service as with the usual arrangement. The
curtains are hung singly on hinged bars, which may be homemade or
those used as towel bars. Details of the supports, at A and B, are
shown in the sketch. Two pairs of fixtures are provided for the shade,
permitting it to be lowered at night, with free circulation of the air
at the top and bottom. The shade is quickly raised, and the curtains
swung into their closed position.--J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.
Coffee Grinder Repaired with Rubber Faucet Plug
A rubber piece that held the glass container on a wall coffee grinder
wore out, so that the glass would not stay in, putting the grinder out
of commission. The piece worn out was a thick rubber washer, tapered at
one end to form a hollow in the other, when in place. I cut a section
from the thick end of a standard rubber faucet plug, and shaped it to
the form of the desired washer. By removing the old rivet carefully, I
was able to use it in fixing the new washer into place, and the mill
was soon grinding merrily, as of old.--M. T. C., Chicago, Ill.
Coal Hod Made from Iron Pipe
[Illustration]
When my coal hod became worn out, I made one of a length of 8-in.
galvanized-iron pipe, and found it to be handier and stronger than
the kind I had used. I fitted the pipe with an iron handle and with a
bail of strong wire, set in metal eyes riveted to the pipe. The upper
end was cut to the curved shape shown, and the lower end square, and
holes were punched along the edge for fastening it with nails to the
double bottom of wood. Three wooden pads were set under the bottom, so
that the hod stands easily on a spot that is not quite level.--T. E.
Roberts, Toronto, Canada.
Frayed Shoe Laces Repaired with Pitch or Wax
When the tag or end fastening comes off of a shoe lace, take a little
black sealing wax, and press it carefully around the end of the lace
and shape it to a point. This will last a long time, and does away with
the annoyance of frayed lace ends.
An Enameled Armchair Made of Wooden Strips
An armchair suitable for a dressing table was made by a handy woman
from pine strips. The photograph shows the simple and pleasing lines
of the construction. Aside from the board seat, only three sizes of
wood are used, 2 by 2 in., 1 by 2 in., and ¹⁄₂ by 2 in. The pieces
are fastened with screws, round-head brass ones being used at exposed
points. The seat is wider from side to side than from front to back.
Two coats of white paint and one of white enamel give a good finish.
[Illustration: The Simple Construction of This Neat Armchair Makes It
an Attractive Job for the Amateur Craftsman]
The dimensions may be varied to suit individual needs. Sizes suggested
are: back, 32 in. high and 24 in. wide; side, 26 in. to top of arm and
19 in. wide; seat, 17 in. from floor, 18 in. from front to back, and 20
in. wide between the front supports. The stock is all planed up square
to dimensions, and sandpapered smooth. The ends should be cut squarely
in a miter box, with a fine-toothed saw, and then sandpapered smooth,
taking care not to round the ends.--A. May Holaday, Chico, Calif.
A Curling-Iron Heater
[Illustration: This Efficient Electric Heater for Curling Irons can be
Made Quickly and Is Safer to Use than an Open Flame]
Heating of curling irons is a not uncommon source of fires, and to
minimize this danger, an electrical heating device is valuable. In the
arrangement shown, a long candle-shaped incandescent lamp is mounted
in a suitable can, or metal tube, to form the body of the heater. This
should be bright, both inside and out, and preferably nickeled. Two
irons can be heated by setting them in the holes in the top. Four small
brackets, soldered, as shown, around the edge of the can, hold it to
the base. A porcelain lamp receptacle is used, mounted on a base block.
Stain, fill, and finish the wood as desired. In assembling the parts,
screw the receptacle to the base, and connect the flexible cord through
a suitable hole. Screw in the lamp, and fasten down the body.--John D.
Adams, Phoenix, Arizona.
A Stepmother for Incubator Chicks
The best imitation mother hen for incubator chicks that we have found,
is built by attaching rag strings to the bottom of an inverted cracker,
or similar, box, which accommodates 2 doz. chicks. The rag pieces are
torn 1 in. wide, from coarse cloth or gunny sacking, and their loose
ends just touch the floor. They are placed close together. An inlet
to the mother box is cut in the edge of it. The chicks huddle in
among the string rags, keeping safe and warm, whereas without such an
arrangement, they may crowd together too closely, and some of them be
smothered.--J. Cecil Alter, Salt Lake City, Utah.
A Cardboard Writing and Drawing Pad
[Illustration: Manuscripts with Drawings may be Prepared Neatly and
Quickly by the Use of This Homemade Writing Pad]
Where neatness is desired in the writing of themes, manuscripts, etc.,
especially if sketches are set into the copy, a homemade writing and
drawing pad is useful. The one shown in the sketch can be made easily,
and is a handy device for school children as well as older persons. The
paper is placed under the guide strips, as shown, and is moved along
under the sliding straightedge as desired. Drawing instruments can be
used handily along the straightedge, as indicated. The pad is built
up as detailed in the sectional views. The general dimensions can be
varied. The bottom piece is ¹⁄₈-in. cloth board. The second layer is
¹⁄₃₂ in. thick and of cardboard; the next is ¹⁄₁₆-in. cardboard, and
the upper layer is ¹⁄₈-in. cloth board, similar to the straightedge.
The latter rests on the projecting guides for the paper, and is set
between the shaded sidepieces.--R. S. Edwards, Walla Walla, Wash.
[Illustration]
Homemade Shoulder-Pack Tent
BY J. D. BOYLAN
After sleeping under various kinds of canvas coverings and not finding
any of them entirely to my liking, I made the tent shown in the
illustration, which proved quite satisfactory. It is of light weight,
easily set up or taken down, and when buttoned closely is practically
rain, wind, and bug-proof. The cost of materials necessary for making
it is comparatively slight. I use it not only as a sleeping tent
but also as a carry-all in packing camping equipment. The canvas is
supported by frames made of pliable branches cut in the woods.
[Illustration: Stakes, Rope Braces, and Supporting Poles are Not
Required for This Shoulder-Pack Tent, the Supports being Cut at the
Camp]
The layout for the canvas is shown in the detailed drawings. The
sections for the ends are made of three pieces, one for the ground and
two, divided vertically, for the end covering. The ground section of
the main portion of the tent and the covering are made in one piece,
6 ft. wide, joined at the middle, as shown. The adjoining edges A are
sewed together and the edges B, which are set at the ridge of the
tent, are sewed, after the other pieces are joined. Brass grommets are
fitted in the canvas, as indicated, and the points of the supporting
frames pass through them in driving the supports into the ground. The
shoulder straps C are placed so that they are in position when the tent
is folded, and rolled into a pack. Other equipment may be placed inside
of it. The tent supports D are pointed at the ends E, and are twisted
together at the top. The ridge pole F steadies them and holds the
canvas at the middle.
To set up the tent, lay the canvas flat on the ground and place the
supports, twisted together, through the grommets. Spring them into the
ends of the canvas, and insert the ridge pole by springing it between
the supports. The canvas is 8-oz. duck, and the fastenings used are
snap buttons; buttonholes, buckles, or harness snaps may also be used.
Kitchen for Hikers
BY PRESTON HELLER
With a view to provide all the needs of a commissary department for
36 boys for a period of four days, either on a hike or in a permanent
camp, the kitchen illustrated was constructed. As it is placed on
two wheels, which are removed when the kitchen is in use, it can be
moved from one day’s camp to another by attaching it to the rear of a
horse-drawn wagon by means of a shaft. When the wheels are removed the
entire outfit rests on legs, which are swung down from the bottom. The
sides and one end are opened by swinging one half up and resting it
on the top, while the other half swings down to a horizontal position
where it is used as a work board, making all parts easily accessible.