them in one and one-half oz. of butter, the necessary salt, and
one-half oz. of sugar, until they are almost completely cooked. Moisten
with one-half pint of white consommé, and complete the cooking.
Meantime, cook two medium-sized, peeled and quartered potatoes in some
consommé.
Now put the turnips and the potato into the same stewpan; crush them,
and rub them through tammy. Bring the purée to the proper consistence
by means of boiled milk, and finish it in the usual way.
Garnish with some small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
642—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE VERMICELLE A LA CRÈME
Sprinkle three oz. of well-separated vermicelli into one pint of
boiling milk or white consommé (according as to whether the preparation
be a Lenten one or not). Let the vermicelli poach gently for
twenty-five minutes, and then add four tablespoonfuls of sorrel cooked
in butter.
Rub the whole through tammy; finish the purée with sufficient milk or
thin cream; heat until the boil is reached, and, when about to serve,
complete by means of a leason composed of the yolks of two eggs and
one-quarter pint of very fresh cream.
For the garnish, refer to the remarks under No. 646.
643—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE SAGOU A LA CRÈME
Proceed exactly as directed in the preceding recipe; but instead of
vermicelli use three oz. of sago. Allow the usual time for cooking, and
add the same quantity of sorrel cooked in butter.
Use the same quantities of milk or consommé in order to bring the purée
to the proper consistence, and make use of a precisely similar leason.
644—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE SEMOULE A LA CRÈME
The same as the above, but use three oz. of semolina. All other
particulars remain the same.
645—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE TAPIOCA A LA CRÈME
Procedure like that of No. 642, using instead of the vermicelli
three oz. of tapioca.
646—REMARKS RELATIVE TO THE POSSIBLE VARIATIONS OF THE FOUR PRECEDING
RECIPES
A large variety of this kind of soups may be prepared by using the
quantity prescribed of salep, buckwheat, oatmeal, barley-meal, &c.
These soups derive a particular and agreeable flavour from their
cohering element.
The chief point to be remembered in their preparation is their
consistence, which should be that of a thin cream.
When too thick, these soups are pasty and disagreeable; when too thin,
they are insipid; hence the desirability of aiming at a happy medium.
Their garnish is exceedingly variable, the more preferable forms being
small bread dice fried in clarified butter, pressed; peeled tomatoes
cut into dice and tossed in butter; small _printaniers_, _brunoises_,
_juliennes_, _paysannes_, or well-poached rice.
Thus, from the typical recipe of these soups, a whole series may be
prepared, which need not be gone into separately here.
647—PURÉE DE POIS AUX CROÛTONS
Wash three-quarters of a pint of split peas in cold water and put
them into a stewpan with one quart of cold water, a little salt,
and one-half lb. of raw ham. Set to boil, skim, and add two oz. of
_mirepoix_, the minced green leaves of three leeks, a fragment of thyme
and bay, salt, and one-half oz. of sugar. Set to cook very gently.
Rub through tammy, bring the purée to the proper consistence by means
of white consommé, despumate it sufficiently, and add butter to it when
dishing up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter.
648—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS, otherwise SAINT-GERMAIN
The two following methods may be employed, viz.:—
(1) Cook quickly one and one-quarter pints of fresh peas, just shelled,
in boiling, salted water. Drain them, pound them in a mortar, moisten
the purée with one pint of white consommé, and rub it through tammy.
Bring it to the proper degree of heat, and add butter when about to
serve. Prepared in this way, the purée should be of a perfect shade.
(2) Stew one and one-quarter pints of fresh peas in one and
one-half oz. of butter, a little lettuce _chiffonade_, one and
one-half oz. of the green part of leeks, a pinch of chervil, a little
salt and sugar, and one-seventh pint of water.
Pound the peas as soon as they are cooked, moisten the purée with one
pint of white consommé, and rub through tammy. Bring the preparation to
the proper degree of heat and add butter at the last moment.
Treated thus, the purée will be of a fainter shade than the preceding
one, but its flavour will be more delicate.
Garnish, in both cases, with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of very
green, fine peas, and some chervil _pluches_. This soup may also be
prepared as a velouté or a cream.
649—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS A LA MENTHE
Make the purée according to one of the above-mentioned methods, and add
to the peas, while cooking, a faggot consisting of three little sprigs
of fresh mint. Finish with consommé, and add butter in the usual way.
Garnish with nice peas, as above, and some very tender mint-leaves,
chopped, instead of the chervil _pluches_.
_Remarks Relative to those Soups which have a Purée of Peas for
Base._—A large number of soups may be made from purées of fresh peas;
among others I may mention the following, with brief directions as to
their constituents and garnish, viz.:—
650—POTAGE AMBASSADEURS
Purée of fresh peas, quite ready for soup; finish with a small
tablespoonful of sorrel and lettuce _chiffonade_, and two
tablespoonfuls of poached rice per quart of purée.
651—POTAGE CAMELIA
Prepare this after the recipe of potage Lamballe; finish with
one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of the white of a leek and one
tablespoonful of white chicken meat, cut _julienne-fashion_, per quart
of the soup.
652—POTAGE FONTANGES
Purée of fresh peas ready for soup; add two tablespoonfuls of a
_chiffonade_ of sorrel and a pinch of chervil _pluches_ per quart of
the purée, and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice.
653—POTAGE LAMBALLE
Half of this consists of a finished purée of peas, and the other half
of tapioca poached in consommé as for the ordinary “potage au tapioca.”
654—POTAGE LONGCHAMPS
This is the “potage Fontange,” kept somewhat clear, and with a garnish
composed of one and one-half oz. of vermicelli, poached in consommé,
and a pinch of chervil _pluches_ per quart of the soup.
655—POTAGE MARIGNY
Proceed as for “potage Fontange,” and add a garnish of one
tablespoonful of peas and one tablespoonful of fine French beans cut
into lozenges.
656—POTAGE MARCILLY
Half of this consists of a purée of peas and the other half of a purée
of chicken. Prepare these purées in the usual way and mix them together
when about to serve.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in consommé
and twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, in the shape of
pearls, per quart of the soup.
657—POTAGE SAINT-MARCEAU
This is an ordinary purée of peas with butter, combined with two
tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ consisting of the white of a leek and
some chervil _pluches_ per quart of the purée. This list could be
considerably lengthened, but what there is of it amply suffices to show
the great number of soups that may be obtained from the combination of
other suitable products with the purée of peas and the modification of
the garnish in each case.
658—PURÉE DE POMMES DE TERRE, otherwise PARMENTIER
Finely mince the white of two medium-sized leeks, and fry them without
colouration in one oz. of butter. Add three medium-sized peeled and
quartered potatoes, one pint of white consommé, and cook quickly. The
moment the potatoes seem soft to the touch crush them and rub them
through tammy.
Finish the purée with some boiled milk or thin cream, heat until the
boil is reached, and add butter when dishing up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter and
some chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
659—PURÉE DE TOMATES, otherwise PORTUGAISE
Fry in one oz. of butter a somewhat finely-cut _mirepoix_ consisting of
one oz. of breast of bacon cut into dice, one-third of a carrot, half
an onion, a fragment of thyme and bay. Add to this fried _mirepoix_
eight medium-sized tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces the size of a
clove of garlic, a pinch of sugar, two and one-half oz. of rice, and
one pint of white consommé. Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, and
finish with the necessary quantity of consommé.
When about to serve complete the purée by adding thereto, away from the
fire, two oz. of butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of poached rice, each grain being
separate, and the same quantity of peeled tomatoes cut into dice and
briskly tossed in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
660—PURÉE DE TOMATES AU TAPIOCA, otherwise WALDÈZE
Prepare one and one-half pints of tapioca in white consommé, and keep
it a little lighter than ordinary tapioca. Also press, peel, and cut
into dice the pulp of three medium-sized, very red tomatoes; poach
these dice in some consommé and mix them with the tapioca.
Or, failing fresh tomatoes, add to the tapioca two tablespoonfuls of
concentrated tomato purée diluted in a bowl with some white consommé.
Send two oz. of grated cheese to the table separately.
661—PURÉE DE TOPINAMBOUR, otherwise PALESTINE
Finely mince two lbs. of Jerusalem artichokes and stew them in one oz.
of butter. Add five torrefied and crushed filberts, moistened with
one pint of white consommé, and set to cook gently. Rub through
tammy; finish the purée with one-quarter pint of milk, in which one
tablespoonful of fecula has been diluted, cold. Set to boil and add
butter when dishing up.
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
662—BISQUE D’ÉCREVISSES
(1) Cut into very small dice one oz. of carrot, one oz. of onion,
and two parsley stalks. Add a fragment of thyme and bay; brown this
_mirepoix_ with butter, in a sautépan; throw in fifteen crayfish for
“Bisque” (their average weight being about one and one-third oz.),
and toss them in the _mirepoix_ until they acquire a very red colour.
Sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and one-quarter pint
of white wine, season with a large pinch of salt and a pinch of ground
pepper, and set to reduce.
This done, moisten with one-quarter pint of white consommé and leave to
cook for ten minutes.
Also cook three oz. of rice in one and one-half pints of white consommé.
(2) Shell the crayfishes’ tails and put them aside; also reserve eight
carapaces. Drain the crayfishes of all their cooking-liquor; finely
pound them and their remains and the _mirepoix_. Add the rice, properly
cooked, and the cooking-liquor of the crayfish, and rub through a
sieve, first, and then through tammy.
Add to the resulting purée one-half pint of white consommé, set to
boil, wielding a whisk the while, pass through a strainer, and then
keep the preparation in a _bain-marie_, taking care to place a few
lumps of butter on its surface lest a skin should form while the bisque
is waiting to be served.
Finish the preparation when dishing up with two and one-half oz. of
butter, three tablespoonfuls of excellent thick cream, and a very
little cayenne.
Garnish with the crayfish tails cut into dice, and the eight carapaces
stuffed with a fish forcemeat with cream and poached seven or eight
minutes previously.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
663—BISQUE DE HOMARD
After substituting for the crayfish a raw lobster weighing three lbs.,
cut into small sections, the procedure is the same as that of No. 662.
It is only necessary, therefore, to refer to that recipe for all
particulars relating to preparation and quantities.
Garnish with the meat taken from the tail; this should have been kept
aside and cut into small dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
664—BISQUE DE CREVETTES
The mode of procedure for this bisque, the _mirepoix_, the thickening
ingredients, the moistening, and the finishing of the soup are
identical with those of No. 662.
All that is needed, therefore, is to substitute for the crayfish
two lbs. of raw shrimps.
Instead of using ordinary butter in finishing this bisque, use
three oz. of shrimp butter. Garnish with twenty-five reserved tails,
these being shelled and trimmed.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
665—COULIS DE GIBIER, otherwise AU CHASSEUR
Prepare six oz. of the meat of a wild rabbit, six oz. of that of a
partridge, and six oz. of that of a pheasant. These meats should be
roasted and their roast-cases swilled with a liqueur-glass of burnt
brandy. The resulting gravy should be added to the soup.
Now finely pound these meats together with one-half pint of cooked
and drained lentils. When the whole has become a smooth purée add the
cooking-liquor of the lentils and the swillings referred to above and
rub through tammy.
Finish the cullis with the necessary quantity of consommé, heat it, and
pass it through a strainer. Add butter at the last moment and season
moderately.
Garnish with three tablespoonfuls of small, very fresh mushrooms; these
to be finely minced and tossed in butter.
666—COULIS DE GRIVES AU PAIN NOIR, otherwise A L’ARDENNAISE
Fry four fine thrushes in butter and complete their cooking in one pint
of feathered game consommé containing five oz. of rye-bread dice fried
in butter. These dice constitute in this case the thickening element of
the soup. Remove and put aside the thrushes’ fillets, finely pound the
carcasses together with two juniper-berries, add the leason of bread
dice, and rub through tammy.
Add to the resulting purée one-quarter pint of feathered-game consommé,
set to boil, and pass through a strainer. Finish the cullis with two
and one-half oz. of butter and four tablespoonfuls of cream.
Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into thin slices or into a
_julienne_.
667—COULIS DE GROUSE OU DE GELINOTTE A L’ANCIENNE
Proceed as in No. 666 in so far as the preparatory details and the
quantities are concerned, but take note of the following changes in
other directions:—
(1) Substitute for the thrushes two grouse or two hazel-hens, taking
care to discard the legs and the carcasses.
(2) Use ordinary bread dice instead of those of rye-bread.
668—COULIS DE LAPEREAU AU CURRIE
Cut the legs of a young wild rabbit into small pieces, stiffen these in
butter, and put them into the stewpan with a few roundels of carrot and
onion, one small faggot of parsley and celery, and one quart of white
consommé. Set to cook gently.
Also lightly brown in butter two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion,
besprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of fecula and a sufficient
quantity of curry, moisten with the strained cooking-liquor of the
pieces of rabbit, bring to the boil, and set to simmer for seven or
eight minutes. Rub through tammy and then despumate for twenty minutes,
adding from time to time one or two tablespoonfuls of consommé with the
view of promoting the clarification of the cullis. When about to serve
finish the latter with three or four tablespoonfuls of cream.
Garnish with eighteen very small slices taken from the pieces of rabbit
and two oz. of rice à l’Indienne, serving the latter separately.
669—COULIS DE PERDREAU A LA PURÉE DE MARRONS, otherwise A LA MANCELLE
Split the shells of fifteen fine chestnuts, put them in a stewpan with
water, boil them for five minutes, and shell and peel them quickly
while they are still very hot. Then cook them gently in one-half pint
of white consommé with one-third of a stick of celery, minced, and one
piece of loaf-sugar.
_Poële_ a partridge, remove the fillets for the purpose of garnish,
bone the rest, and pound it finely together with the carcass and
the _poëling_ liquor. Add the chestnuts, pound the whole, and add
some consommé to the resulting purée with the object of facilitating
the rubbing through tammy. This done, add to the preparation about
one-quarter pint of very clear game stock, bring the whole to the boil,
pass it through a strainer, and finish the cullis, when dishing up,
with a very little cayenne and one and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with the fillets of partridge cut into a small _julienne_.
670—COULIS DE VOLAILLE, otherwise A LA REINE
Poach in one quart of white consommé a cleaned fowl weighing about
three lbs. and two oz. of rice previously _blanched_. Having cooked
the fowl, withdraw it, raise its fillets, and put them aside. Bone
the remainder and finely pound the meat. When the latter is a smooth
paste mix therewith the rice, which should be very well cooked, add the
necessary amount of white consommé to the purée, and rub through tammy.
Bring the cullis to the boil and pass it through a fine strainer.
Finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason composed of the
yolks of three eggs, one-sixth pint of cream, and three oz. of butter.
Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into small, regular dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
671—VELOUTÉ AGNÈS SOREL
(1) Prepare one and one-half pints of poultry velouté, keeping it
somewhat thin.
(2) Clean, wash, peel, and quickly pound eight oz. of very fresh
mushrooms, newly gathered if possible.
Rub through a fine sieve, and add the resulting purée of raw mushrooms
to the velouté. Bring the whole to the boil once or twice, and this
done rub through tammy immediately. Finish with the leason and add
butter when dishing up.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of raw mushrooms tossed
in butter, one tablespoonful of chicken fillets, and as much salted
tongue, both of which should also be cut in _julienne-fashion_.
N.B.—With regard to veloutés I remind the reader that the velouté
of ordinary consistence represents one-half of the soup, the purée
typifying the latter represents one-quarter, while the consommé
required to bring the soup to the correct degree of consistence should
be in the proportion of the remaining quarter.
The leason, per quart of the soup, should consist of the yolks of three
eggs and one-sixth pint of cream, while the average quantity of butter
should measure about two and one-half oz. (see No. 242).
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
672—VELOUTÉ DE BLANCHAILLE AU CURRIE
Bear in mind that this soup ought to be made and served within the
space of twenty minutes, for if it be left to stand for however short a
time, it will most probably turn, in spite of every possible precaution.
Cook three oz. of finely chopped onion in butter without colouration,
besprinkle with one-half coffeespoonful of curry, moisten with one and
one-half pints of boiling water, add a faggot, a pinch of salt, a few
sprigs of saffron (or a little of it powdered), and two oz. of Viennese
bread.
Set to boil for ten minutes; this done add three-quarters lb. of very
fresh Blanchailles, and cook over a brisk fire.
Rub through a hair-sieve, finish by means of a leason consisting of the
yolks of three eggs and one-fifth pint of cream, and pour the whole
into the soup-tureen over some dried slices of bread (buttered), over
rice, or over some previously poached vermicelli. Serve at once.
673—VELOUTÉ CARMÉLITE
Prepare one and one-half pints of fish velouté, stew four oz. of
fillets of sole and the same quantity of fillets of whiting in one and
one-half oz. of butter and lemon juice. Pound the fish, add it to the
velouté, and rub through tammy.
Add the necessary quantity of consommé, heat the velouté, and finish
it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of poached fillets of
sole and twelve small quenelles of smelt forcemeat.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
674—VELOUTÉ AUX CAROTTES, otherwise NIVERNAISE
Cut into thin slices one lb. of the red part only of carrots, season
with a pinch of table-salt and twice that amount of castor-sugar, and
stew in one oz. of butter.
Add one pint of ordinary thin velouté and let the cooking of the
carrots be completed therein. Rub through tammy, finish with one-half
pint of white consommé, set to boil, and complete the preparation, when
dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of a fine _brunoise_ of
the red part of carrots.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
675—VELOUTÉ COMTESSE
Prepare one pint of ordinary velouté, parboil one and one-half lbs. of
white asparagus, and put them into the velouté. Complete the cooking
gently. Rub through tammy, add one-half pint of white consommé, heat,
and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a lettuce _chiffonade_ and twelve
small white asparagus-heads wherefrom all leaves have been removed.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
676—VELOUTÉ AU CONCOMBRES, otherwise DANOISE
Peel, remove the seeds from, mince, and stew in butter one lb. of
parboil cucumber. Add this to one pint of ordinary velouté, which
should have been prepared at the same time, and complete the cooking
quickly. Rub through tammy, add the necessary quantity of white
consommé, heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a
leason and butter in the usual quantities.
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
677—VELOUTÉ CRESSONIÈRE
After having slightly parboiled them, stew one lb. of very fresh
watercress leaves in one and one-half oz. of butter, add them to one
pint of ordinary velouté. Set to simmer for seven or eight minutes, rub
through tammy, add one and one-half pints of ordinary white consommé,
heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason and
butter.
Garnish with one oz. of watercress leaves parboiled for three minutes.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
678—VELOUTÉ DAME-BLANCHE
Prepare one and one-half pints of clear poultry velouté. Also finely
pound ten or twelve well-washed sweet almonds, moisten them, little by
little, with one-sixth pint of fresh water, and rub through a strong
towel, twisting the latter to assist the process.
Add this almond milk to the velouté, and finish the latter, when
dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of the white of a chicken cut into small
dice, and twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat (in the shape of
pearls) poached just before dishing up.
679—VELOUTÉ D’ARTOIS
Prepare one pint of ordinary velouté, and mix therewith one-half pint
of a purée of haricot beans. Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of
white consommé; heat, and finish the whole, when dishing up, with the
leason and butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of an ordinary _julienne_ and a pinch
of chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
680—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS
Prepare a thin panada with one pint of boiled milk and two and
one-half oz. of crumbled bread. Season with a pinch of salt and a very
small quantity of mignonette. Also stew gently, in one oz. of butter,
two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, two and one-half oz. of fillets of
smelt, one-half lb. of fillets of sole, or the meat of a dory, and the
juice of the quarter of a lemon.
Add the fish, stewed in butter and pounded, to the panada, together
with one-half pint of ordinary thin velouté.
Rub through tammy; heat; season with a very little cayenne, and finish
the whole, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and one and
one-half oz. of butter.
N.B.—1. In view of the decided flavour of the smelt, and the really
disagreeable taste it imparts to a preparation which contains overmuch
of it, its flesh should never exceed the proportion of one-third of the
required quantity of fish. The remaining two-thirds should be supplied
by a fish of neutral flavour, such as the sole or dory, both of which
are admirably suited to this purpose.
2. The velouté d’éperlans should, like almost all fish veloutés, be
prepared as quickly as possible, and at the last moment. The process
should not last longer than thirty minutes, for, if there be any delay,
the preparation will turn and lose its flavour.
3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening element,
instead of a fish velouté, the reason being that, were the latter used,
the taste of fish would in the end be too pronounced.
681—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS JOINVILLE
Proceed in the matter of the base of the soup as in No. 680.
Finish the velouté with an ordinary leason and one and one-half oz. of
shrimp butter.
Garnish with six crayfish tails, cut into four pieces, and one
tablespoonful of a short _julienne_ of truffles and mushrooms.
682—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS PRINCESSE
The same as above, with twelve small quenelles of smelt forcemeat with
crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of very green asparagus-heads
per quart of velouté.
683—VELOUTÉ AUX GRENOUILLES, otherwise SICILIENNE
Prepare one and one-half pints of delicate and rather thin fish velouté.
Trim fifteen or twenty frogs’ legs; toss them in butter without letting
them acquire any colour, and set them to poach for ten minutes in two
tablespoonfuls of white wine and the juice of a lemon. Pound them in a
mortar; add the resulting purée to the velouté; set to simmer for seven
or eight minutes, and rub through tammy.
Heat the velouté, and finish it, when dishing up, with the ordinary
leason and three and one-half oz. of best butter.
Do not garnish this velouté.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
684—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD, otherwise CARDINAL
Prepare one and three-quarter pints of bisque de homard (No. 663), but
substitute velouté for the thickening with rice. Rub through tammy;
heat, and complete, when dishing up, with two and one-half oz. of
lobster butter and three-quarters oz. of red butter.
Garnish with two _baba-moulds_ of a royale of lobster, cut by means of
a fancy-cutter in the shape of a cross.
Shell-fish veloutés do not admit of an egg-yolk leason.
685—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A CLEVELAND
Break up two small live lobsters or one medium-sized one, and prepare
it à l’Américaine (see “Lobster à l’Américaine”). Reserve a few slices
of the meat for garnishing purposes. Finely pound the rest with the
shell; combine the purée with one quart of ordinary velouté prepared
beforehand, and add the lobster sauce. Rub through a sieve, first, then
through tammy; heat without allowing to boil; add the required quantity
of consommé, and once more pass the whole through a strainer.
Complete, when dishing up, with three oz. of best butter.
Garnish with one-half tablespoonful of peeled tomato pulp, cut into
dice and half-melted in butter, and the reserved slices of lobster cut
into dice.
686—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A L’INDIENNE
Prepare the lobster à l’Américaine as above, and flavour it with curry.
Preserve a sufficient quantity of meat from the tail to afford an
abundant garnish.
For the rest of the process proceed exactly as the preceding recipe
directs.
Garnish with the reserved meat cut into dice, and four tablespoonfuls
of rice à l’Indienne; send the latter to the table separately.
687—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A L’ORIENTALE
Prepare a medium-sized lobster after the manner directed in “Homard à
la Newburg with raw lobster” (see No. 948), and season with curry.
Reserve a few slices of the meat of the tail for the garnish; finely
pound the remaining portions and the shell; add the lobster sauce, and
combine the whole with one quart of ordinary velouté, kept somewhat
light.
Rub through a sieve, first, then through tammy; heat the velouté
without letting it boil; add the necessary quantity of consommé, and
finish the preparation, when about to serve, with three oz. of butter.
Garnish with the reserved meat cut into dice, and two tablespoonfuls
of rice à l’Indienne, each grain of which should be kept distinct and
separate.
688—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD AU PAPRIKA
Prepare a medium-sized lobster à l’Américaine, and, in addition to the
usual ingredients of the preparation, include two _concassed_ tomatoes
and two roughly chopped onions. Season with paprika.
For the rest of the operation, proceed exactly as directed under
“Velouté à la Cleveland.”
Garnish with lobster meat cut into dice, two tablespoonfuls of rice,
and one tablespoonful of pimentos cut into dice.
689—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A LA PERSANE
Proceed exactly as for “Velouté de Homard à l’Orientale.”
Garnish with lobster meat in dice, one tablespoonful of pimentos in
dice, and two tablespoonfuls of pilaff rice, to which add a very little
saffron.
_Remarks relating to the Variation of these Veloutés._—By merely
substituting an equivalent quantity of crayfish, shrimps, or crabs, for
the lobster, the recipes dealing with veloutés of lobster, given above,
may be applied to _Veloutés of Crayfish_, _Shrimps_, or _Crabs_.
It would therefore be pointless to repeat them, since all that is
needed is to read crayfish, shrimps, or crabs wherever the word lobster
appears.
Thus I shall only point out that the number of these veloutés may be
increased at will, the only requisites being the change of the basic
ingredient and the modification of the garnish.
690—VELOUTÉ AUX HUÎTRES
Prepare one quart of very delicate fish velouté, and bear in mind that
the preparation must be made as speedily as possible. (See the remarks
dealing with this question which follow upon the model recipe of the
velouté d’éperlans.)
Add to the velouté the carefully collected liquor of the twenty-four
oysters constituting the garnish, and complete, when about to serve,
with a leason and butter.
Garnish with four poached oysters (cleared of their beards) per each
person.
691—VELOUTÉ ISOLINE
Prepare one quart of poultry velouté. Complete it, when dishing up,
with an ordinary leason and three oz. of crayfish butter.
Garnish with three tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in white
consommé.
692—VELOUTÉ MARIE LOUISE
Prepare one pint of poultry velouté; mix therewith one-half pint of
barley cream (No. 712), and rub through tammy. Add one-half pint of
white consommé, and heat the velouté without letting it boil.
Finish it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter. Garnish with
one and one-half tablespoonfuls of best macaroni, poached and cut into
dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
693—VELOUTÉ MARIE STUART
Prepare a poultry velouté with barley cream, as above. Finish it, when
about to serve, with a leason and butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of a _brunoise_, and the same quantity
of fine pearl barley cooked in white consommé.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
694—VELOUTÉ AU POURPIER
Proceed exactly as directed under “Velouté Cressonière” (No. 677), but
substitute purslain for the watercress.
695—VELOUTÉ A LA SULTANE
Prepare one quart of poultry velouté. Finish it, when dishing up, with
a leason composed of the yolks of three eggs diluted with one-fifth
pint of sweet-almond milk (made by pounding eighteen sweet almonds,
mixing therewith one-fifth pint of water, and straining the whole
through a twisted towel), and three oz. of pistachio butter. The
velouté should be of a pale green shade.
Garnish with small crescents of chicken forcemeat prepared with
crayfish butter, kept of a pink shade. These crescents should be laid,
by means of a piping-bag, upon thin roundels of truffle, and poached in
consommé.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
695a—COLD CHICKEN VELOUTÉ FOR SUPPERS
The preparation of these veloutés requires the utmost care, but, as a
rule, they are very much liked.
Prepare a white roux from one oz. of butter and one and one-sixth oz.
of flour per quart of the moistening. Dilute with some very strong
clear consommé, thoroughly cleared of grease; boil, and despumate for
one and one-half hours, adding meanwhile half as much consommé as
served in the moistening of the velouté.
When the velouté is thoroughly despumated and entirely cleared of
grease, strain it through a silk sieve, and add, per quart, one-quarter
pint of very fresh thin cream. Cool, stirring incessantly the while;
once more strain the velouté through the sieve when it is cold, and,
if necessary, add some of the consommé already used, in order to give
the velouté the consistence of a thickened consommé. Serve it in cups,
and see that it be sufficiently thin to not impaste the mouth of the
consumer.
This velouté is usually served as it stands, but it allows of various
condimentary adjuncts. Such are:—Tomato and capsicum essences;
crayfish, shrimp, or game creams. These creams or essences should be of
consummate delicacy, and ought to lend only a very delicate flavour to
the velouté.
696—CRÈME D’ARTICHAUTS AU BEURRE DE NOISETTE
Have ready one and one-half pints of Béchamel. Parboil, finely mince,
and stew in butter four large artichoke-bottoms. Pound the latter; put
them in the Béchamel, and rub the whole through tammy.
Add the necessary quantity of white consommé or milk, and set to heat
without allowing to boil. Finish the preparation, when dishing up, with
one-quarter pint of cream and one oz. of hazel-nut butter (No. 155).
_Remarks relative to Creams._—I remind the reader here that (1) the
thickening element of creams is a Béchamel prepared in the usual way
(see No. 28); (2) in the preparation of a cream, of what kind soever,
the Béchamel should constitute half of the whole, the basic ingredient
a quarter, and the white consommé or milk the remaining quarter.
As a rule, they comprise no butter, but are finished by means of
one-third pint of very fresh cream per quart. Be this as it may, if
it be desirable to butter them, one may do so, but in very small
quantities, and taking care to use the very best butter.
This class of soups is more particularly suited to Lenten menus.
697—CRÈME D’ASPERGES, otherwise ARGENTEUIL
Parboil for five or six minutes one and one-half lbs. of Argenteuil
asparagus, broken off at the spot where the hard part of the stalk
begins. Drain them, and set them to complete their cooking gently in
one and one-quarter pints of previously prepared Béchamel.
Rub through tammy; add the necessary quantity of white consommé, and
heat without allowing to boil.
Finish with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of white asparagus-heads and a pinch of
chervil _pluches_.
698—CRÈME D’ASPERGES VERTES
Proceed exactly as for “Crème Argenteuil,” but substitute green
asparagus for Argenteuil asparagus.
699—CRÈME AU BLÉ VERT, otherwise CÉRÈS
Put one lb. of dry, green wheat to soak in cold water for four hours.
Then cook it slowly in one-half pint of water and as much white
consommé. Mix therewith one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel and rub
through tammy.
Add the necessary amount of white consommé to the purée; heat the whole
without boiling, and finish it with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a purée or a velouté.
700—CRÈME DE CÉLERI
Mince one lb. of the white of celery; parboil for seven or eight
minutes; drain, and stew in one oz. of butter. Mix one and one-quarter
pints of Béchamel with it; complete the cooking slowly, and rub through
tammy.
Add one-half pint of white consommé; heat without allowing to boil, and
finish the preparation with cream when about to serve.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of a _brunoise_ of celery.
This soup may also be prepared as a purée or a velouté.
701—CRÈME DE CERFEUIL BULBEUX, otherwise CHEVREUSE
Mince and stew in butter one lb. of bulbous chervil, and mix therewith
one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel. Complete the cooking slowly;
rub through tammy; add sufficient white consommé; heat, and finish
with cream when dishing up. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a fine
_julienne_ of chicken fillets and the same quantity of a _julienne_ of
truffles.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
702—CRÈME DE CHICORÉE DE BRUXELLES, otherwise BRUXELLOISE
Take one lb. of very fresh chicory, and stew it for a good half-hour in
one and one-half oz. of butter and the juice of one lemon.
Now mix one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel with it, and finish the
cooking very slowly. Rub through tammy; add the necessary quantity of
white consommé; heat, and complete with cream when serving.
Garnish with a _julienne_ of Belgian chicory, stewed and well drained.
703—CRÈME D’ÉPINARDS, otherwise FLORENTINE
Quickly parboil one lb. of shredded and well-washed spinach to which
a little sorrel may be added; drain, press, and add thereto one and
one-half pints of somewhat thin Béchamel. Complete the cooking; rub the
whole through tammy, and finish it with the necessary amount of fresh
cream.
Garnish with a _julienne_ of spinach, quickly parboiled and stewed in
butter.
704—CRÈME DE FÈVES NOUVELLES
Skin two-thirds lb. of new broad beans, freshly gathered, if possible.
Cook them for ten minutes in boiling salted water containing a sprig of
savory, and then add one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel. Complete
the cooking of the broad beans in the Béchamel; rub through tammy; add
one-half pint of white consommé or milk; heat without allowing to boil,
and finish the preparation with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with very small skinned broad beans, split in two and parboiled
with a sprig of savory.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
705—CRÈME D’IGNAMES, otherwise BRÉSILIENNE
Bake the yams in the oven, without peeling them. As soon as this is
done, cut them in two, remove their pulp, and quickly rub the latter
through a sieve while it is still hot. Dilute the purée with boiling
milk or thin Béchamel in the proportion of one pint of the former and
one-half pint of the latter per lb. of the purée. (This Béchamel should
be made from one and one-half oz. of butter and one oz. of flour per
quart of milk.)
Rub the whole through tammy, and finish the preparation in the usual
way. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Brazilian pearls, poached in
consommé.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
706—CRÈME DE LAITUES, otherwise JUDIC
Parboil and stew in butter two medium-sized _ciseled_ lettuces, the
greenest leaves of which should have been discarded. Add these to one
and one-half pints of Béchamel.
Rub through tammy; add one pint of white consommé; heat, and finish as
usual with cream.
Garnish with roundels of lettuce leaves, lightly coated with chicken
forcemeat, a bit of truffle laid in their centre, and the whole poached
at the last minute.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
707—CRÈME DE MAÏS, otherwise WASHINGTON
Cook some fresh maize in salted water (or use the preserved kind if
the fresh is out of season), and combine therewith an equal quantity
of thin Béchamel. Rub through tammy; heat, and finish with cream when
dishing up.
Garnish with grains of maize cooked in salted water.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté by substituting for the
Béchamel an excellent poultry velouté.
708—CRÈME D’OSEILLE A L’AVOINE
Pour one-quarter lb. of oatmeal diluted with one-half pint of cold milk
into one quart of slightly salted boiling milk. Stir over the fire
until the boil is reached; move the stewpan to the side of the fire,
and simmer for two hours.
This done, add six tablespoonfuls of a _fondue_ of sorrel and butter;
set to simmer again for one-quarter hour, and rub the whole through
tammy.
Complete the operation after the manner common to all creams.
709—CRÈME D’OSEILLE A L’ORGE
Proceed exactly as for No. 708, using the same quantities, but
substituting barley-meal for oatmeal.
_Remarks upon the Two above Creams._—They may also be prepared as
veloutés. Their garnish may be greatly varied, and may consist of
_chiffonade_ of lettuce and sorrel; pressed peeled tomatoes, cut
into dice and cooked in butter; poached rice or pastes (_i.e._,
vermicelli, &c.); fine well-cooked pearl barley; _brunoise_; small
_printaniers_, &c.
They belong, in fact, to the same order of soups as the purées of
sorrel with pastes, the recipes of which were given earlier in the
chapter.
710—CRÈME D’OXALIS
Peel and slice the oxalis roots, and half-cook them in salted water.
Drain, add it to one and one-half pints of Béchamel, and complete its
cooking gently in the sauce.
Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of white consommé, and finish
after the manner of other creams. Garnish with chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a purée or a velouté.
711—CRÈME DE RIZ
Wash one-half lb. of rice in cold water; _blanch_ it; cool it, and cook
it very gently in one quart of white consommé. Crush in the mortar;
rub through tammy, and dilute the rice purée with one pint of white
consommé. Heat and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the
necessary quantity of cream.
Or pour four tablespoonfuls of rice cream, diluted with one-half pint
of cold milk, into three pints of boiling milk; set to boil, stirring
the while, and leave to cook very gently for twenty-five minutes. Rub
through tammy, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the
required quantity of cream.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
712—CRÈME D’ORGE
Wash three-quarters lb. of coarse pearl barley in lukewarm water, and
cook it gently for about two and one-half hours in one pint of white
consommé containing one piece of the white part of a stick of celery.
Crush in a mortar; rub through tammy; dilute the purée of barley with
one pint of white consommé; heat, and finish the preparation, when
dishing up, with the necessary quantity of cream.
This soup may also be prepared with barley-meal, the procedure in that
case being the same as that of the “Crème de Riz” above.
Garnish with very fine, well-cooked pearl barley.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
713—CRÈME DE VOLAILLE PRINCESSE
Mix one and one-half pints of thin Béchamel with one-half pint of
chicken purée. Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of white consommé
to the preparation, or the same quantity of boiled milk; heat without
allowing to boil, and finish with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with twenty very small slices of chicken fillets, white
asparagus-heads, and chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
714—CRÈME REINE-MARGOT
Mix one-half pint of chicken purée with one pint of thin Béchamel.
Rub through tammy; add one and one-half pints of white consommé and
one-quarter pint of almond milk (No. 678). Heat without allowing to
boil, and finish with cream.
Garnish with very small grooved quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined
with one oz. of pistachio purée per three oz. of forcemeat.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
715—POTAGE A L’AURORE
Wash one-quarter lb. of fine pearl barley in plenty of water. Put it
into a stewpan with one quart of consommé, as much water, a faggot
comprising parsley, celery, and chervil, and set to cook very gently
for five hours. While the cooking progresses, take care to remove all
the skin which forms on the surface, in order that the cooking-liquor
may remain very clear.
When the barley is well cooked, transfer it to another stewpan, and
add to it four tablespoonfuls of a thick and very red tomato purée,
strained through muslin, and two tablespoonfuls of celery, minced in
_paysanne-fashion_, stewed in butter, and finally cooked in consommé.
This excellent soup should not be made too thick.
716—POTAGE BAGRATION GRAS
Cut two-thirds lb. of very white fillet of veal into large dice, and
stiffen these in butter without letting them acquire any colour. Add
one and one-quarter pints of thin velouté with a veal base, and set to
cook very gently.
Finely pound the veal; dilute the purée with velouté, and rub through
tammy. Add one pint of white consommé; heat without boiling, and
complete the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason of the yolks
of three eggs diluted with four tablespoonfuls of cream and two oz. of
butter.
Garnish with thin macaroni cut into short lengths, and send some grated
cheese to the table separately.
717—POTAGE BAGRATION MAIGRE
Prepare one and one-half pints of fresh velouté, and mix therewith
one-quarter pint of mushroom velouté. (For making this, see “Velouté
Agnès Sorel,” No. 671.)
Heat without boiling; pass through a strainer, and finish, when about
to serve, with the same leason as for ordinary velouté, and two and
one-half oz. of butter. Garnish with one fillet of sole, poached very
white, and cut into a _julienne_; twelve small quenelles of sole or
whiting forcemeat finished with crayfish butter, and six crayfishes’
tails cut into small pieces.
718—POTAGE CHOISEUL
Prepare a “purée Conti” (No. 640) with an excellent _fumet_ of game.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of sorrel, _ciseled_ and cooked in
butter, and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice.
719—POTAGE COMPIÈGNE
Prepare a light “Purée Soissonnaise”; butter it well, and add thereto
as garnish three tablespoonfuls of _ciseled_ sorrel cooked in butter,
and chervil _pluches_.
720—POTAGE DERBY
Add one-half pint of Soubise purée (No. 104) to one pint of “Crème
de Riz” (No. 711) flavoured with a very little curry. Rub the whole
through tammy.
Add one-half pint of white consommé, and heat without boiling.
Complete, when about to serve, with an ordinary leason and three oz. of
butter.
Garnish with twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with
one-third of its volume of foie-gras purée, one tablespoonful of little
truffle pearls, and an equal quantity of poached rice, each grain of
which must be kept distinct and separate.
721—POTAGE A LA DIANE
Cook one-half lb. of lentils with the usual garnish. Roast two
medium-sized partridges, keeping them slightly underdone, and remove
their fillets. Complete the cooking of the partridges with the lentils,
drained of their cooking-liquor, in one pint of game consommé.
Prepare a royale (No. 209) with the reserved fillets.
When the birds are cooked, bone them; pound their meat, and add thereto
the lentils and the cooking-liquor; rub through tammy.
Finish the purée with one and one-half pints of excellent thin game
stock, and complete the soup, when dishing up, with two oz. of butter
and two tablespoonfuls of reduced Madeira.
Garnish with the royale, cut into small regular crescents, and twelve
small crescents of very black truffle.
722—POTAGE ELISA
Prepare one and one-half pints of poultry velouté, and rub it through
tammy. Complete with one-half pint of white consommé; heat without
boiling, and finish, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason, two and
one-half oz. of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of a _fondue_ of sorrel.
723—POTAGE FAVORI
Prepare one pint of a velouté of green asparagus; one-half pint of a
velouté of lettuce, and one-half pint of poultry velouté. Put all three
into a stewpan; add thereto the necessary quantity of white consommé
to bring the soup to the correct degree of consistence; heat without
boiling, and pass through a strainer.
Finish the soup, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and two oz.
of butter. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a _chiffonade_ of sorrel,
and one tablespoonful of green asparagus-heads.
724—POTAGE GERMINY
_Cisel_ and melt in butter three oz. of shredded sorrel, and add
thereto one and one-half pints of white consommé. A few minutes before
serving, pour into the consommé a leason composed of the yolks of six
eggs diluted with one-quarter pint of cream; set on the fire and stir,
after the manner of an English custard, _i.e._, until the preparation
begins to show signs of boiling.
Finish, away from the fire, with two and one-half oz. of butter, and
add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
_Remarks concerning the Possible Variation of this Soup._—The mode of
procedure adopted in the case of the Germiny could, if necessary, be
applied to all thick soups, and it would then constitute a class to
which the term “Cream” would be better suited than it is at present to
the soups thus designated.
Instead of the ordinary white consommé, which is used in its
preparation, a consommé may be used in which such vegetables as
carrots, turnips, peas, &c., are cooked, the latter being reserved for
the garnish, while the cooking-liquor is thickened with egg-yolks and
cream in accordance with the quantities and directions given in the
above recipe.
A carrot cream, a cream of fresh peas, or of asparagus-heads, prepared
in this way, would be much more delicate than those prepared after the
ordinary recipes.
The essential point in this series of soups is the leason; this should
consist of enough egg-yolks to render the preparations sufficiently
thick and creamy.
725—POTAGE AUX HERBES
Cut two oz. of sorrel leaves into a _julienne_, and stew them in butter
with one oz. of watercress leaves, one oz. of chervil _pluches_, and
young pimpernel. Add one and one-half pints of water, the necessary
salt, three medium-sized, peeled, and quartered potatoes, and cook
gently.
Drain and reserve the cooking-liquor; crush the potatoes; dilute the
purée with the cooking-liquor, and rub through tammy. Set to boil,
and finish, when dishing up, with three oz. of Printanier butter with
herbs, combined with a few leaves of sweet basil.
Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
726—POTAGE JUBILEE, otherwise BALVET
Prepare, according to the directions given (No. 648), one and one-half
pints of a purée of fresh peas, and add thereto one-half pint of
consommé of “La Petite Marmite.” Set to boil, and finish with two oz.
of butter.
Garnish with the vegetables from the Marmite, prepared as for Croûte au
Pot.
727—POTAGE LONGCHAMPS
Refer to the derivative soups of the “Purée de Pois” (No. 654).
728—POTAGE LAVALLIÈRE
Prepare one and one-half pints of “Crème de Volaille” (No. 713),
finished with a leason of egg-yolks and cream; also two-thirds pint of
“Crème de Céleri,” similarly finished, and combine the two creams.
Garnish with twelve small _profiterolles_, stuffed with chicken
forcemeat, and a royale of celery in dice.
729—POTAGE MADELEINE
Prepare and combine the following purées:—One-third pint of artichoke
purée, one-fifth pint of haricot-bean purée, one-seventh pint of
Soubise purée. Add one pint of white consommé; set to boil; pass
through a strainer, and finish, when dishing up, with two oz. of butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of sago poached in one-half pint of
white consommé.
730—POTAGE MISS BETSY
Proceed exactly as for “Potage à l’Aurore” (No. 715), but (1) flavour
potage Miss Betsy with curry; (2) substitute for the celery peeled,
cored apples cut into dice and cooked in butter.
N.B.—Both these soups (Aurore and Miss Betsy) are subject to much
variation. All that is needed is to alter the flavouring element and
the garnish. Thus the quantity of tomato may be reduced by half, and
combined with one-quarter lb. of peas and their cooking-liquor (the
peas in this case being cooked in one pint of water with a little salt
and sugar); or with the same quantity of French beans, asparagus-heads,
or sorrel cooked in butter, &c.
731—POTAGE MONTESPAN
Add one-half pint of somewhat thick tapioca to one and one-half pints
of “Crème d’Asperges” (No. 697), prepared as directed. Garnish with
very fine peas cooked in the English fashion.
732—POTAGE NÉLUSKO
Mix one and one-half pints of rather liquid poultry velouté with
one-half pint of chicken purée. When serving, add an ordinary leason,
and finish with two and one-half oz. of hazel-nut butter.
Garnish with very small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with
one tablespoonful of hazel-nut powder per three oz. of the forcemeat.
733—POTAGE PETIT DUC
Take a fine woodcock; raise and reserve one of its fillets, and roast
it, taking care to keep it very underdone. Then remove the other
fillet, and with it prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of royale (No. 209).
Finely pound what remains of the woodcock, and combine with the
resulting purée one and one-half pints of game velouté prepared with
essence of woodcock. Cover the stewpan and place it in the _bain-marie_
for thirty-five minutes. Now rub the whole through tammy; heat without
boiling, and finish, when dishing up, with one and one-half oz. of
butter, one and one-half oz. of cooked foie-gras purée, diluted with
a few tablespoonfuls of the soup, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of
cream, and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of burnt liqueur brandy.
Garnish with the royale cut into dice, and the reserved fillet of
woodcock, stiffened in butter at the last moment, and cut into thin
slices.
734—POTAGE RÉGENCE
Prepare one quart of barley cream in accordance with the directions
under No. 712. Finish it, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and
one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter.
Garnish with twelve small, grooved quenelles of chicken forcemeat
finished with crayfish butter; one tablespoonful of small pearl barley,
well cooked; and six small cocks’ combs, freshly poached and very white.
735—POTAGE ROSSOLNIK
Prepare (1) one quart of light, poultry velouté combined with cucumber
juice; (2) ten pieces of parsley root and the same quantity of celery
root, turned to the shape of small, new carrots, and split crosswise at
their base; (3) twenty small lozenges of salted cucumber.
Parboil the roots and the cucumber lozenges for fifteen minutes, and
add them to the velouté when about to cook the latter. Cook the whole
gently for forty minutes, despumating the velouté the while. Finish
with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of cucumber juice, and an ordinary
leason.
Garnish with small chicken-forcemeat quenelles.
736—POTAGE DE SANTÉ
Cook quickly, in salted water, three medium-sized, peeled, and
quartered potatoes. When their pulps seem soft to the touch, drain
them; rub them through a fine sieve, and dilute the resulting purée
with one and one-half pints of white consommé. Add two tablespoonfuls
of sorrel melted in butter, and finish the preparation with an ordinary
leason and one oz. of butter.
Garnish with very thin roundels of French _soup-flute_ and chervil
_pluches_.
737—POTAGE SIGURD
Prepare one pint of “Velouté Parmentier” and one pint of tomato
velouté. Combine the two; heat, and finish, when dishing up, with two
and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with twenty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, combined
with one coffeespoonful of chopped capsicum, or capsicum in dice, per
three oz. of the forcemeat.
738—POTAGE SOLFERINO
Mince the white of two leeks, the third of a medium-sized carrot,
and half an onion, and stew the whole in one and one-half oz. of
butter. Add one-half lb. of pressed tomatoes cut into pieces, two
medium-sized, peeled potatoes, minced; moisten with two-thirds pint
of white consommé, and cook gently. Crush the vegetables; rub them
through tammy; complete the purée with the necessary quantity of white
consommé; set to boil, and finish, when dishing up, with two and
one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with twelve little balls of potato, raised by means of the
spoon-cutter, and cooked in salted water; two tablespoonfuls of French
beans cut into lozenges; and some chervil _pluches_.
739—POTAGE VIVIANE
Prepare one quart of “Crème de Volaille” (No. 713), and finish it with
the usual leason. Garnish with one tablespoonful of artichoke-bottom,
cut into dice, the same quantity of carrot dice, both gently cooked in
butter, and one tablespoonful of truffle dice.
740—POTAGE WINDSOR
_Blanch_ and cool one small, boned calf’s foot, and cook it gently in a
good white-wine _mirepoix_. Prepare one and one-half pints of “Crème
de Riz” (No. 711), and add thereto the cooking-liquor of the calf’s
foot, strained through muslin.
Finish this cream, when about to serve, with an ordinary leason, one
and one-half tablespoonfuls of a slight infusion of turtle-soup herbs,
and one and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with a _julienne_ of half of the calf’s foot and twenty small
quenelles consisting of a purée of hard-boiled egg-yolks and chicken
forcemeat, these two preparations being in the proportion of two-thirds
and one-third respectively.
741—SOUPE AUX ABATIS DE VOLAILLE A L’ANGLAISE
Cut the necks into three, the gizzards into four, and the pinions
into two. Brown one-half lb. of these giblets in a thick-bottomed
stewpan with one oz. of butter. Sprinkle with one tablespoonful of
flour; slightly colour the latter, and moisten with one quart of white
consommé and one pint of water. Add a faggot containing one stick of
celery, and set to cook gently for three hours.
When the pieces of giblets are cooked, drain them, trim them, and put
them into a stewpan with one dessertspoonful of parboiled rice and
a heaped tablespoonful of the white of celery, minced and fried in
butter. Strain the cooking-liquor of the giblets, through a strainer,
over the enumerated garnishes; set to cook gently for another quarter
of an hour; season strongly with pepper, and serve.
742—SOUPE AUX CERISES
Stone two-thirds lb. of small, fleshy cherries, and put twenty aside
for garnishing purposes. Put the others into a sugar-boiler with
two-thirds pint of hot water, a small strip of lemon rind, and a
fragment of cinnamon, and set to boil quickly for eight minutes.
Also boil in another sugar-boiler one-half pint of Port or Bordeaux
wine. Crush half of the cherry-stones in the mortar; put them into the
boiled wine, and let them infuse, away from the fire.
Rub the cooked cherries through a fine sieve; dilute the purée with the
juice thickened by means of one tablespoonful of fecula moistened with
cold water; add the cherries put aside for the garnish, and one-half
tablespoonful of castor sugar, and again set to boil for four minutes.
Complete the preparation with the infusion strained through muslin;
pour it into the soup-tureen, and add a few _biscottes_.
For the sake of variety, lady’s-finger biscuits may be substituted for
the _biscottes_.
743—COCKY-LEEKI SOUP
Set half a fowl to cook very gently in one and one-half pints of light
and clear veal stock with a few aromatics.
Also prepare a _julienne_ of the white of three leeks; stew this in
butter without colouration, and complete the cooking thereof in the
cooking-liquor of the fowl, strained and poured carefully away.
Pour the preparation into the soup-tureen, and add the meat of the
fowl, cut into a _julienne_.
Serve some stewed prunes separately, but this is optional.
744—SOUPE AUX FOIES DE VOLAILLE
Make a roux from one and one-half oz. of butter and as much flour. When
it has acquired a nice, light-brown colour, moisten it with one quart
of white consommé or brown stock, and set to boil, stirring the while.
Add one-half lb. of raw chickens’ livers rubbed through a sieve, and
set to cook for fifteen minutes. Rub the whole through tammy; season
strongly with pepper; heat, and complete the preparation, at the last
moment, with one-quarter lb. of sliced chickens’ livers, tossed in
butter, and one wineglass of good Madeira.
745—SOUPE JULIENNE DARBLAY
Cook quickly in salted water two small, peeled, and quartered potatoes.
Drain them, rub them through a fine sieve, and dilute the purée with
one and one-half pints of white consommé. Add three tablespoonfuls of a
_julienne_ made in accordance with the above recipe; heat, and finish
the preparation with an ordinary leason and one and one-half oz. of
butter.
746—MINESTRONE
Brown the minced white of two small leeks and one-third of an onion,
also minced, in one oz. of chopped, fresh breast of bacon, and
one-half oz. of grated, fat bacon. Moisten with one and one-half pints
of white consommé, and add one-third of a carrot, one-third of a
turnip, half a stick of celery, two oz. of small cabbage, and one small
potato, or one-half of a medium-sized one, all of which vegetables must
be finely minced.
About twenty-five minutes after the soup has started cooking, complete
it with two tablespoonfuls of peas, a few French beans cut into
lozenges, and one and one-half oz. of rice, or the same quantity of
very thin macaroni broken into very small pieces.
This done, set to cook again for thirty minutes. A few minutes before
serving, add to the soup one small, crushed clove of garlic, three
leaves of sweet basil, and a small pinch of chopped chervil _pluches_;
mix the whole with one-half tablespoonful of grated bacon.
Send to the table, separately, at the same time as the soup some
freshly grated Gruyère.
747—MILLE-FANTI
First make the following preparation:—Beat two small eggs to a stiff
froth, and mix therewith one and one-half oz. of the crumb of very good
white bread, one oz. of grated Parmesan, and a little nutmeg. Boil one
and two-thirds pints of white consommé, and pour the above preparation
therein, little by little, stirring briskly the while with the whisk.
Then move the stewpan to the side of the fire, put the lid on, and set
to cook gently for seven or eight minutes.
When about to serve, stir the soup with a whisk, and pour it into the
soup-tureen.
748—MULLIGATAWNY SOUP
Cut a small fowl, or half a medium-sized one, into little pieces, and
put these in a stewpan with a few roundels of carrot and onion, a small
bunch of parsley and celery, one-half oz. of mushroom parings and one
quart of white consommé. Set to boil, and then let cook gently.
Also lightly brown in butter half a medium-sized onion, chopped;
besprinkle it with one dessertspoonful of fecula and one coffeespoonful
of curry; moisten with the cooking-liquor of the fowl, strained through
a sieve; boil, and set to cook gently for seven or eight minutes. Now
rub the whole through tammy, and leave it to despumate for twenty
minutes, adding one tablespoonful of consommé, from time to time, with
the view of promoting the despumation, _i.e._, the purification of the
soup.
When about to serve, finish the preparation with three or four
tablespoonfuls of cream. Pour the whole into the soup-tureen; add
a portion of the meat of the fowl, cut into thin slices, and serve
separately two oz. of rice à l’Indienne.
749—SOUPE AUX GOMBOS OU OKRA
This soup is held in high esteem by Americans. It is served either with
garnish, as I direct below, or as a consommé, hot or cold, or in cups,
after it has been strained.
Fry one medium-sized chopped onion in two oz. of butter, without
letting it acquire any colour. Add one-quarter lb. of fresh lean bacon,
or raw ham cut into medium-sized dice; fry for a few minutes, and add
about one lb. of boned chicken-meat cut into large dice (the white
parts of the chicken are used in preference); let these ingredients
stiffen well; take care to stir fairly often, and moisten with two
quarts of white chicken consommé. Boil, and set to cook gently for
twenty or twenty-five minutes with lid on.
Now add about one-half lb. of peeled gombo, cut in coarse
_paysanne-fashion_, and three or four medium-sized tomatoes, peeled,
_concassed_, and with their seeds withdrawn.
When the gombos are well cooked, carefully remove all grease from the
preparation; test the seasoning, and, if necessary, add a few drops of
Worcestershire sauce.
Garnish the soup with two or three tablespoonfuls of plainly-cooked
rice.
N.B.—This soup is excellent if it be finished with one-quarter pint
of cream per quart. A cream of gombos may also be prepared, which may
be garnished with the dice of chicken meat. In the latter case, the
garnish of rice is optional.
750—SOUPE A LA PAYSANNE
Finely mince one small carrot, one small turnip, one leek, one-third
of a stick of celery, one-third of an onion, and some cabbage leaves.
Stew the vegetables in one oz. of butter; moisten with one and one-half
pints of white consommé, and set to boil. A few minutes having elapsed,
add two small potatoes minced like the other vegetables, and complete
the cooking gently. Send separately some roundels of _soup-flutes_.
751—SOUPE AUX POIREAUX ET POMMES DE TERRE, otherwise A LA BONNE FEMME
Finely mince the white of four medium-sized leeks. Put this into a
stewpan with one oz. of butter, and stew gently for a quarter of an
hour. Then add three medium-sized quartered potatoes, cut into roundels
the thickness of pennies. Moisten with one pint of white consommé; add
the necessary quantity of salt, and set to cook gently. When about
to serve, finish the soup with one pint of boiled milk and one and
one-half oz. of butter; pour it into the soup-tureen, and add twelve
roundels of French _soup-flutes_, cut as thinly as possible.
752—SOUPE AUX ROGNONS
Proceed exactly as for “Soupe aux Foies de Volaille,” but substitute
for the garnish of sliced livers one of calf’s or sheep’s kidney cut
into large dice, or sliced, and briskly tossed in butter just before
dishing up.
Finish the soup similarly to the preceding one, _i.e._, with Madeira.