SOUPS
Soups are divided into two leading classes, viz.:—
1. Clear soups, which include plain and garnished consommés.
2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams.
A third class, which is independent of either of the above, inasmuch as
it forms part of plain, household cookery, embraces vegetable soups and
Garbures or _gratined_ soups. But in important dinners—by this I mean
rich dinners—only the first two classes are recognised.
When a menu contains two soups, one must be clear and the other thick.
If only one is to be served, it may be either clear or thick, in which
case the two kinds are represented alternately at different meals.
In Part I. of this work I indicated the general mode of procedure
for consommés and thick soups; I explained how the latter might be
converted from plain purées into veloutés or creams, or from veloutés
into creams; and all that now remains is to reveal the recipes proper
to each of those soups.
_Remarks._—In the course of the recipes for consommés, given hereafter,
the use of Royales (Nos. 206 to 213) and of Quenelles, variously
prepared (Nos. 193 to 195 and 205), will often be enjoined. For the
preparation of these garnishes, therefore, the reader will have to
refer to the numbers indicated.
The quantities for the clear soups that follow are all calculated to
be sufficient for a standard number of six people, and the quantity
of Royales is always given in so many _dariole-moulds_, which contain
about one-eighth pint, or _baba-moulds_, which hold about one-fifth
pint.
Of course, it will be understood that the poaching need not necessarily
have been effected in these moulds, for very small “Charlotte” moulds
would do quite as well. But I had recourse to the particular utensils
mentioned above, in order that there might be no sort of doubt as to
the exact quantity of royale it would be necessary to prepare for any
one of the soups.
=Clear Soups and Garnished Consommés=
539—CONSOMMÉ ALEXANDRA
Have a quart of excellent chicken consommé ready; add thereto, in
order to thicken it slightly, three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca,
strained through muslin, and very clear.
Put the following garnish into the soup-tureen: One tablespoonful of
white chicken-meat cut in fine _julienne-fashion_, one tablespoonful
of small chicken quenelles, grooved and long in shape, and one
tablespoonful of lettuce _chiffonade_.
Pour the boiling consommé upon this garnish, and send to the table
immediately.
540—CONSOMMÉ AMBASSADRICE
Have one quart of chicken consommé ready; also there should have been
prepared beforehand, with the view of using them quite cold, three
different kinds of royales, consisting respectively of truffle purée,
tomato purée, and purée of peas, each of which should have been poached
in a _dariole-mould_.
Cut these royales up into regular dice, and put them in the soup-tureen
with one tablespoonful of chicken fillet and an equal quantity of
small, freshly-cooked mushrooms, finely minced. Pour the boiling
consommé over these garnishes, and serve at once.
541—CONSOMMÉ ANDALOUSE
Prepare a _baba-mould_ of royale made from tomato purée. When quite
cold, cut it into dice, and put these in the soup-tureen with one
small tablespoonful of cooked ham cut in _julienne-fashion_, one
tablespoonful of boiled rice, with every grain distinct and separate,
and two tablespoonfuls of threaded eggs (No. 217).
When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear chicken consommé over
the garnish.
542—CONSOMMÉ D’ARENBERG
With a small spoon-cutter, pick out a spoonful of carrot pearls and the
same quantity of turnip pearls. Cook these vegetables by boiling them
in consommé, taking care that the latter be reduced to a glaze when
the vegetables are cooked. With the same spoon take the same quantity
as above of very black truffle; also prepare a _dariole-mould_ of
royale made from asparagus heads, and a dozen small chicken-forcemeat
quenelles, which should be moulded to the shape of large pearls.
Poach the quenelles, cut the royales up into slices, which must be
stamped with an indented fancy-cutter, and put the whole into the
soup-tureen with the carrots, turnips, and truffle pearls, and one
tablespoonful of very green peas.
Pour a quart of chicken consommé over the garnish, and send to the
table at once.
543—CONSOMMÉ A LA BOHÉMIENNE
Prepare three _dariole-moulds_ of foie-gras royale, and twelve
_profiterolles_ (No. 218) of the size of hazel-nuts, the latter being
made very crisp.
When the royale is cold, cut it into little, regular squares, and put
these into the soup-tureen.
When about to serve, pour over this garnish a quart of chicken
consommé, thickened by means of three tablespoonfuls of tapioca,
poached and strained through linen.
Send the _profiterolles_ to the table separately, and very hot.
544—CONSOMMÉ BOÏELDIEU
Prepare eighteen chicken-forcemeat quenelles, moulded by means of a
small teaspoon; some should be stuffed with foie-gras purée, moistened
with a little velouté; others with chicken purée; and yet others with
truffle purée—in short, six of each kind.
Place these, one by one, on a buttered sauté-pan; poach them, drain
them, and put them in the soup-tureen with a tablespoonful of white
chicken-meat, cut into dice.
When about to serve, pour one quart of chicken consommé, thickened as
above with tapioca, over the garnish.
545—CONSOMMÉ BOUQUETIERE
Prepare a garnish of carrots and turnips, cut with the tubular cutter
or with the spoon; French beans cut into lozenges, asparagus-heads, and
green peas, all of which vegetables should be fresh and young. Cook
each vegetable according to its nature, and put the whole into the
soup-tureen.
When about to serve, pour over the garnish one quart of chicken
consommé thickened with two tablespoonfuls of tapioca, poached and
strained through fine linen.
546—CONSOMMÉ BOURDALOUE
Prepare a _dariole-mould_ of each of the four following royales:—
1. Of a purée of haricot-beans with a slight addition of tomato.
2. Of a chicken purée moistened with velouté.
3. Of a purée of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked spinach
leaves, to deepen the colour.
4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy).
Having poached and cooled the royales, cut them as follows:—
(1) Into dice, (2) into lozenges, (3) into little leaves, and (4) into
stars.
Place them all in the soup-tureen, and, when about to serve, pour one
quart of boiling and very clear chicken consommé over them.
547—POTAGE BORTSCH
Cut in _julienne-fashion_ the heads of two leeks, one carrot, half
of an onion, four oz. of the white of cabbage leaves, half a root of
parsley, the white part of a stick of celery, and four oz. of beetroot;
set the whole to stew gently in butter.
Moisten with one quart of white consommé and two or three
tablespoonfuls of the juice of grated beetroot; add a small bunch of
fennel and sweet marjoram, two lbs. of moderately fat breast of beef,
and the half of a semi-roasted duck; set to cook gently for four hours.
When about to serve, cut the breast of beef into large dice, and cut
the duck into small slices; finish the soup with one-quarter pint of
beetroot juice, extracted from grated beetroot pressed in linen, and
a little blanched and chopped fennel and parsley. Put the beef dice
and sliced duck into the soup, with twelve grilled and despumated
_chipolatas_.
Serve, separately, a sauceboat of sour cream.
N.B.—The _chipolatas_ may be replaced by very small patties with duck
forcemeat, which should be served separately.
548—CONSOMMÉ BRUNOISE
Cut into small dice the red part only of two small carrots, one small
turnip, the heads of two leeks, a small stick of celery, and the third
of an onion of medium size.
Season the vegetables moderately with salt and a pinch of sugar, and
stew them in butter. Moisten with one-half pint of consommé, and
complete the cooking of the Brunoise gently. Five minutes before
serving, finish with one quart of boiling, ordinary consommé, a
moderate tablespoonful of peas, and the same quantity of French beans,
cut into dice and kept very green.
Pour into the soup-tureen, and add a pinch of fine chervil _pluches_.
549—CONSOMMÉ CARMEN
Prepare one quart of consommé, to which add, while clarifying,
one-quarter pint of raw tomato purée, in order to give it a faint, pink
tinge.
Also peel and press a small and rather firm tomato; cut into dice,
and poach the latter in some of the consommé; put them in the
soup-tureen with a small tablespoonful of mild capsicum, cut in fine
_julienne-fashion_, and one tablespoonful of plain-boiled rice.
When about to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the garnish, and
add a small pinch of chervil _pluches_.
550—CONSOMMÉ CASTELLANE
Prepare (1) one quart of game consommé, flavoured with a _fumet_ of
woodcock; (2) two _baba-moulds_ of royale, two-thirds of which consists
of a purée of woodcock and one-third of lentils, with half the yolk of
a hard-boiled egg, chopped and thickened with the usual leason.
Cut this royale into slices, about the size of a florin, one-half inch
thick. Put these into the soup-tureen, together with one tablespoonful
of a _julienne_ of roast woodcock fillets, and pour thereon the boiling
game consommé.
551—CONSOMMÉ CÉLESTINE
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and add thereto three small
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through fine linen.
For the garnish make three _pannequets_ (No. 2403 and 2476) without
sugar, and spread over each a thin coating of chicken forcemeat with
cream. Place one on top of the other, sprinkle the layer of forcemeat
on the uppermost one with finely-chopped, very black truffles, and
place in the front of the oven for a few minutes, in order to poach the
forcemeat.
Stamp the _pannequets_ out with an even fancy-cutter about one inch in
diameter. Put the pieces into a soup-tureen, and, when about to serve,
pour in the boiling consommé.
552—CONSOMMÉ CHARTREUSE
Prepare (1) eighteen small _ravioles_ (No. 2296)—six from spinach
purée, six from foie-gras purée, and the remaining six from chopped
mushrooms; (2) two small tablespoonfuls of tomato dice. Ten minutes
before serving, poach the _ravioles_ in boiling, salted water, and the
tomato dice in some of the consommé.
Put the ravioles and the tomato dice (well drained) into the
soup-tureen, and pour over them one quart of consommé with a moderate
addition of tapioca. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
553—CONSOMMÉ AUX CHEVEUX D’ANGE
About two minutes before serving, plunge three oz. of very fine
vermicelli, known as Angel’s Hair (Cheveux d’Ange) into one quart of
excellent, boiling consommé.
An instant only is needed to poach the vermicelli, and the latter does
not require to be blanched.
This soup, like those containing pastes, should be accompanied by
freshly-grated Parmesan cheese.
554—CONSOMMÉ COLBERT
Have ready one quart of excellent _Printanier_ chicken consommé
(No. 601). Also poach six small eggs in slightly salted and acidulated
water. The eggs should be as small and as fresh as possible, both of
which conditions are absolutely necessary for a proper poaching (see
poached eggs, No. 411). Set these eggs in a small timbale with a
little consommé, and send them to the table with the Printanier. Having
poured the latter into the plates, put one of the eggs into each of
these.
555—CONSOMMÉ COLOMBINE
Prepare a good tablespoonful of carrot pearls, and as many turnip
pearls, keeping the latter very white. Cook them in the customary way,
and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of very green
peas, one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of roast-pigeon fillets, and
six poached pigeons’ eggs, which latter should be sent to the table in
a timbale at the same time as the consommé.
Pour over the other garnish one quart of very clear, boiling, chicken
consommé, and serve immediately.
This soup can only appear on summer and spring menus, when the pigeons’
eggs are in season.
556—CROÛTE AU POT
Prepare a freshly-cooked vegetable garnish for a stockpot:—Carrots and
turnips cut into small sticks and trimmed; a few heads of leeks, and
cabbage, parboiled, minced, and cooked in very fat consommé.
Put these vegetables in a somewhat greasy broth for ten minutes.
Also prepare seven or eight crusts of French soup “_flutes_”;
besprinkle them with stock grease, and dry them in the oven. Put the
vegetable garnish into the soup-tureen; pour thereon one quart of
consommé of the Petite Marmite (No. 598), and add to the dried crusts.
557—CONSOMMÉ CYRANO
Prepare (1) one quart of consommé with a _fumet_ of duck; (2) twelve
small quenelles of duck forcemeat, which should be made flat and oval.
Having poached the quenelles, drain them, and set them in a small,
shallow earthen pan or timbale; sprinkle with a little grated Parmesan
cheese and a few drops of chicken glaze, and set to glaze in the oven.
The quenelles are served separately in the pan in which they have been
glazed, and the consommé is sent to the table in a soup-tureen.
558—CONSOMMÉ DEMIDOFF
With the small spoon-cutter, pick out a good tablespoonful of carrot,
and the same quantity of turnip pearls. Cook these vegetables in the
customary way, and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful
of truffle pearls, the same quantity of peas, and small, poached,
chicken-forcemeat quenelles with herbs. Pour one quart of boiling
chicken consommé over this garnish, and add a pinch of chervil
_pluches_.
559—CONSOMMÉ DESLIGNAC
Prepare (1) two small, stuffed lettuces, rolled into sausage form and
poached; (2) two _baba-moulds_ of royale with cream. Cut the royale
into small, regular dice; trim the lettuce, and cut it into slices;
put this garnish into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon one quart
of boiling chicken consommé, thickened with three tablespoonfuls
of poached tapioca, strained through linen. Add a pinch of chervil
_pluches_.
560—CONSOMMÉ AUX DIABLOTINS
Cut a French soup “_flute_” into twelve slices one-quarter inch thick.
Reduce about one-quarter pint of Béchamel to a thick consistence;
add thereto, away from the fire, two heaped tablespoonfuls of grated
Gruyère cheese, and season with a little cayenne.
Garnish the slices of soup “flute” with this preparation, arranged in
the form of a dome, upon a tray, and set it to glaze a few minutes
before serving.
Pour one quart of chicken consommé into the soup-tureen, and add the
diablotins.
561—CONSOMMÉ DIPLOMATE
Roll into small sausage-form three oz. of chicken forcemeat, finished
with crayfish butter. Poach the sausages, cut them into thin roundels,
and put them into the soup-tureen with one dessertspoonful of very
black truffle, cut in _julienne-fashion_.
Pour over this garnish one quart of boiling chicken consommé, thickened
with two tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen.
562—CONSOMMÉ DIVETTE
Prepare two _baba-moulds_ of royale made from crayfish velouté,
eighteen small quenelles of smelt forcemeat, moulded to the shape of
pearls, and one tablespoonful of small pearls of very black truffle.
Cut the royale into oval slices, and put these into the soup with the
poached quenelles and the truffle pearls.
Pour one quart of very clear, boiling consommé over the garnish.
563—CONSOMMÉ DORIA
Prepare the following garnish:—Thirty pellets of cucumber in the shape
of large pearls; eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, long in
shape and grooved; six little pellets, about the size of a large pea,
of _pâte à choux_, combined with grated cheese, rolled by hand; and one
and one-half tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls, poached in some of the
consommé.
Put the cucumber pellets, cooked in consommé, into the soup-tureen; add
the poached quenelles and the Japanese pearls.
Four minutes before serving, plunge the pellets of _pâte à choux_ into
hot fat, keeping them crisp.
When about to serve, pour over the garnish one quart of boiling chicken
consommé; complete with a pinch of chervil _pluches_, and serve the
little, fried pellets separately.
564—CONSOMMÉ DOUGLAS
With an even cutter, the size of a penny, cut up some braised and
cooled sweetbread into twelve roundels one-third inch thick; with
the same cutter cut out twelve more roundels from some cooked
artichoke-bottoms, and put the whole into the soup-tureen with two
tablespoonfuls of very green asparagus-heads.
When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling, highly seasoned,
ordinary consommé upon the garnish.
565—CONSOMMÉ A L’ÉCOSSAISE
Prepare a special mutton broth, and, at the same time, cook a fine
piece of breast of mutton for the garnish.
Per two quarts of broth, put into the soup-tureen four tablespoonfuls
of pearl-barley, cooked very gently beforehand; two tablespoonfuls
of French beans, cut into lozenges, and the breast of mutton cut
into regular dice of one-half inch side, in the proportion of one
tablespoonful for each person.
Pour the boiling mutton broth over this garnish, after having removed
all the grease and strained it through linen.
566—CONSOMMÉ FAVORITE
With a spoon-cutter, pick from out some violet potatoes eighteen
pellets the size of small hazel-nuts, and cook them in salted water
in good time for them to be ready for the dishing up of the soup. Put
them in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of
artichoke-bottoms and the same quantity of cooked mushrooms, also cut
in _julienne-fashion_.
Pour over the garnish one quart of chicken consommé, thickened with
three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. Add a
pinch of chervil _pluches_.
566a—CONSOMMÉ A LA FERMIÈRE
Mince, somewhat finely, one small carrot, one small turnip, the heads
of two leeks, and the half of an onion. Slightly stew these vegetables
in one and one-half oz. of butter; moisten with one and one-half pints
of white consommé; add two oz. of parboiled cabbage, cut roughly into a
_julienne_, and complete the cooking gently, taking care to remove all
grease, with the view of obtaining a very clear consommé.
Pour into the soup-tureen, and add a few thin slices of French soup
“_flute_,” slightly dried.
567—CONSOMMÉ FLORENTINE
With fine chicken forcemeat make twenty-four small quenelles on a
buttered tray, their shape being that of small Mecca loaves. To the
forcemeat of six of these quenelles add some very finely chopped
tongue; add white chicken-meat to that of another six; and to that of
the remaining twelve add some very reduced spinach purée. The quenelles
with spinach should number twice those with the other two ingredients,
in order that the preparation may be in keeping with its designation “à
la Florentine.”
Poach the quenelles; put them in the soup-tureen with two
tablespoonfuls of very green, cooked peas.
When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear, boiling chicken
consommé over this garnish, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
568—CONSOMMÉ GAULOISE
Prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of ham royale, and poach the latter in
a small, well-buttered Charlotte mould. When quite cold, cut it into
large lozenges, and put these into the soup-tureen with six small
cocks’ combs and six small cocks’ kidneys (these latter as small as
possible).
When about to serve, pour over this garnish one quart of chicken
consommé, thickened slightly with two tablespoonfuls of poached
tapioca, strained through linen.
569—CONSOMMÉ GEORGE SAND
Have ready one quart of consommé flavoured with very clear fish
_fumet_. Also prepare twelve small quenelles of whiting forcemeat,
finished with crayfish butter; stew twelve morels, which should be
left whole if very small, and cut into two if they are of medium size;
twelve small slices of poached carps’ milt, and twelve little roundels
of French soup “_flutes_.”
Put the poached quenelles and the stewed morels into the soup-tureen;
pour therein the boiling, fish consommé, and send the slices of carps’
milt set on the roundels of French soup “_flute_” separately to the
table.
570—CONSOMMÉ GERMAINE
Prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of royale made from a purée of very green
peas, combined with a tablespoonful of Mirepoix stewed in butter, and a
strong pinch of small, chervil _pluches_; eighteen small quenelles of
chicken forcemeat with cream, moulded to the form of pastils.
When the royale is cold, cut it into regular roundels, and put these
into the soup-tureen with the poached quenelles.
When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé over
the garnish.
571—CONSOMMÉ GIRONDINE
Prepare (1) one quart of highly-seasoned beef consommé; (2) two
_baba-moulds_ of ordinary royale made with whole eggs and combined with
two tablespoonfuls of cooked and finely-chopped lean ham; (3) three
tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of carrots (the red part only) stewed in
butter, the cooking of which should be completed in the consommé.
Put the royale, cut into large, regular lozenges, and the _julienne_ of
carrots into the soup-tureen, and pour in the boiling beef consommé.
572—CONSOMMÉ GRIMALDI
Have ready one quart of excellent ordinary consommé, to which have
been added, while clarifying, four tablespoonfuls of raw tomato purée,
strained through fine linen.
Also prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of ordinary royale, and three
tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of the white of celery, stewed in
butter, finally cooked in the consommé, and with all grease removed.
Put the royale, cut into large dice, and the _julienne_ of celery into
the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the boiling consommé with tomatoes.
573—CONSOMMÉ IMPERIALE
Prepare three _dariole-moulds_ of mousseline forcemeat of fowl
(No. 195), and put it to poach in a small Charlotte mould.
When quite cold, cut it, by means of a cutter, into roundels the size
of a penny, and put these in the soup-tureen with six small _blanched_
cocks’ combs and three sliced cocks’ kidneys, and two tablespoonfuls of
very green peas.
Pour over this garnish one quart of chicken consommé, thickened with
three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.
574—CONSOMMÉ A L’INDIENNE
Have ready one quart of ordinary consommé seasoned with curry. Also
prepare three _baba-moulds_ of royale made from cocoanut milk, and,
when quite cold, cut into small dice.
Put this royale into the soup-tureen; pour on it the boiling consommé
with curry, and send to the table, separately, four tablespoonfuls of
Rice à l’Indienne (No. 2254).
575—CONSOMMÉ A L’INFANTE
With some _pâte à choux_ (No. 2374) prepare eighteen _profiterolles_ of
the size of hazel-nuts. Cook them, taking care to keep them very crisp,
and stuff them when cold with purée de foie gras moistened with velouté.
Put two tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of mild capsicum into the
soup-tureen, and pour thereon one quart of boiling chicken consommé,
moderately thickened with poached tapioca strained through linen.
Serve the _profiterolles_ of foie gras separately, after having heated
them in the front of the oven.
N.B.—The garnish of Consommé à l’Infante may consist only of the
_profiterolles_, and the _julienne_ of capsicum may be suppressed; this
is a matter of taste.
576—CONSOMMÉ JACQUELINE
With a small spoon-cutter, pick from out some carrots twenty-four
little oval pellets, which should be cooked in the consommé. Prepare
two _baba-moulds_ of royale with cream.
Put into the soup-tureen the pellets of carrots and the royale cut to
the shape of pastils, one tablespoonful of peas, the same quantity of
very green asparagus-heads, and one tablespoonful of rice.
When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé over
this garnish.
576a—CONSOMMÉ JULIENNE
Cut into fillets, two inches in length, the red part only of two
medium-sized carrots, one medium-sized turnip, one leek, half a
stick of celery, some cabbage leaves, and half an onion. Season these
vegetables with a pinch of salt and as much castor sugar; stew them
in one oz. of butter; moisten with one and one-half pints of white
consommé, and then add two oz. of small parboiled cabbages, cut after
the manner of the other vegetables.
Finish the cooking gently, removing the grease the while, and
complete with one small tablespoonful of very green, cooked peas, one
tablespoonful of sorrel and lettuce _chiffonade_, and one pinch of
chervil _pluches_.
577—CONSOMMÉ LORETTE
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé. Also prepare two
tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of celery stewed in butter and
cooked in the consommé; twelve small “pommes à la lorette” (No. 2226),
the size of hazel-nuts, and shaped like small crescents. These potatoes
should be fried in hot fat four minutes before serving.
Put into the soup-tureen the _julienne_ of celery, twelve small,
freshly-poached cocks’ kidneys, and one tablespoonful of a _julienne_
of pimentos; pour the boiling consommé over this garnish; add a pinch
of chervil _pluches_, and send the lorette potatoes to the table
separately.
578—CONSOMMÉ MACDONALD
Prepare (1) one quart of highly seasoned beef consommé, (2) two
_dariole-moulds_ of brain-purée royale; (3) two tablespoonfuls of
cucumbers cut into small dice and cooked in consommé until the latter
is reduced to a glaze; (4) five little _ravioles_ garnished with
chicken forcemeat combined with a third of its volume of spinach. Put
these _ravioles_ to poach in salted boiling water twelve minutes before
serving.
Put into the soup-tureen the royale of brains cut into roundels
one-third inch thick, the dice of cucumber, and the _ravioles_ poached
and well drained.
Pour the boiling beef consommé over this garnish just before serving.
579—CONSOMMÉ MARGUERITE
Take two tablespoonfuls of chicken forcemeat with cream, and roll it
into sausage-form on the floured mixing-board. Put the sausage to
poach. Rub the yolk of an egg through a fine sieve, and cohere it with
half a teaspoonful of raw forcemeat.
Having poached and cooled the chicken sausage, cut it into thin
roundels, and stamp each roundel with a fancy-cutter to the shape of a
marguerite. Arrange the marguerites on a dish, and lay in the middle of
each a bit of the egg and forcemeat, in imitation of the flower-centre.
Put these marguerites into the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of
small, green asparagus cut into lengths of one inch. When about to
serve, pour one quart of very clear, boiling chicken consommé over this
garnish.
580—CONSOMMÉ MARQUISE
Prepare one quart of good, ordinary consommé, to which three sticks of
celery have been added, while clarifying, in order that the taste of
the celery may be very decided.
Make thirty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with
finely-chopped filberts, giving them the shape of pastils.
Poach these quenelles ten minutes before serving. Also poach in
_court-bouillon_ two calf’s piths, and cut them into thin roundels.
Put the poached quenelles and the roundels of calf’s piths into the
soup-tureen, and pour thereon the boiling consommé.
581—CONSOMMÉ MERCÉDÈS
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé with pimentos, combined, at the
last minute, away from the fire, with one-half pint of sherry.
Put into the soup-tureen two tablespoonfuls of capsicum, cut in fine
_julienne-fashion_ and short, and some small, freshly-cooked cocks’
combs.
When about to serve, pour the consommé over this garnish.
582—CONSOMMÉ MESSALINE
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and add thereto, while
clarifying, one-quarter pint of tomato essence, obtained by reducing
the moisture contained by the tomato to a syrup.
Put into the soup-tureen twelve small, freshly-poached cocks’ combs,
two tablespoonfuls of Spanish capsicum cut into a _julienne_ and
poached in the consommé if fresh (this should have been previously
grilled, with the view of removing the skins), and two tablespoonfuls
of poached rice, every grain of which should be distinct.
Pour the boiling consommé over this garnish.
583—CONSOMMÉ METTERNICH
Prepare one quart of game consommé with pheasant _fumet_. Also poach
two _dariole-moulds_ of royale, made from a purée of artichokes
combined with some tablespoonfuls of the reduced game Espagnole.
Cut this royale into dice; put these into a soup-tureen with one
tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of pheasant fillets, and pour thereon the
boiling consommé.
584—CONSOMMÉ A LA MILANAISE
Cook in slightly salted boiling water two oz. of moderately thick
macaroni. As soon as it is cooked, drain it, lay it on a piece of
linen, and cut it into small rings. Also prepare one-quarter pint of
Béchamel, thickened with the yolk of one egg combined with one oz. of
grated cheese, and keep it very dense.
Mix the rings of macaroni with this sauce; spread the whole on a dish,
and leave to cool. Now divide up the preparation into portions the
size of walnuts; roll these into balls, and then flatten them out to
form quoits about the size of shillings. Treat these quoits with an
_anglaise_, and very fine bread-crumbs, and plunge into hot fat four
minutes before serving. Drain them when they have acquired a fine
golden colour.
Pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé into the soup-tureen, and
send to the table, separately, (1) the fried macaroni quoits; (2) one
and one-half oz. of Gruyère and Parmesan cheese, in equal quantities,
grated and mixed.
585—CONSOMMÉ MIREILLE
Add one tablespoonful of very concentrated tomato purée to three oz.
of chicken forcemeat; roll this preparation into the form of a
somewhat large sausage, and poach it. When cold, cut it into
roundels, one-quarter inch thick, and stamp each roundel with an
oval fancy-cutter in the shape of a medallion. Put these medallions
in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of saffroned pilaff rice
(No. 2255), and, when about to serve, pour thereon one quart of very
clear, boiling chicken consommé.
586—CONSOMMÉ MIRETTE
Make eighteen quenelles of chicken forcemeat in the shape of large
pearls, and poach them. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of lettuce
_chiffonade_ (the heart of one lettuce cut _julienne-fashion_ and
stewed in butter); make eighteen _paillettes_ with Parmesan (No. 2322),
and put them in a very hot oven eight or ten minutes before serving.
Put the poached quenelles and the lettuce _chiffonade_ into the
soup-tureen; pour thereon one quart of boiling consommé of the Petite
Marmite, and one pinch of chervil _pluches_.
Send the _paillettes_ au Parmesan to the table separately, and have
them very hot.
587—CONSOMMÉ MONTE CARLO
Make and poach thirty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat; _cisel_
and stew in butter the heart of one lettuce; prepare twelve little
_profiterolles_ of _pâte à choux_, the size of hazel-nuts, and cook
them, taking care to keep them crisp.
Put the quenelles and the lettuce _chiffonade_ into the soup-tureen;
pour thereon one quart of very clear, boiling, chicken consommé, and
add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
Serve the _profiterolles_ separately and very hot.
588—CONSOMMÉ MONTMORENCY
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé thickened with three
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen.
Prepare eighteen small grooved quenelles of chicken forcemeat. Poach,
drain, and put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of
very green asparagus-heads and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice,
every grain of which should be distinct and separate.
589—CONSOMMÉ A LA MOSCOVITE
Prepare one quart of sterlet or sturgeon consommé, and add thereto some
cucumber essence, obtained by pounding a cored and peeled cucumber, and
straining the resulting purée through linen.
Put into the soup-tureen two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of salted
mushrooms, one oz. of soaked _vesiga_ cut into dice and cooked in
broth, and pour thereon the boiling consommé.
N.B.—_Vesiga_ or the spine-marrow of the sturgeon ought to be soaked
in cold water for a few hours in order to soften and swell it, after
which it should be cut into dice and cooked in broth. For every four
tablespoonfuls of cooked _vesiga_, one oz. of dry _vesiga_ should be
allowed.
590—CONSOMMÉ NESSELRODE
Have ready one quart of game consommé, prepared with hazel-hen _fumet_.
Poach two _baba-moulds_ of royale made from chestnut purée with two
small tablespoonfuls of game _salmis_ sauce added thereto; cut it into
roundels half-inch thick, and trim these with a grooved fancy-cutter.
Put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_
of hazel-hen fillets, the same quantity of a _julienne_ of mushrooms,
and pour thereon the boiling game consommé.
591—CONSOMMÉ AUX NIDS D’HIRONDELLES
The nests used for this soup are those of the esculent swallow, and
their shape somewhat resembles that of the rind of a quartered, dry
orange.
In the first place, prepare a chicken consommé containing a large
proportion of nutritious principles. Set three nests to soak in cold
water for twenty-four hours, the object being to swell the mucilaginous
elements of which they are composed and to make them transparent.
When they have soaked sufficiently remove any pieces of feather which
may have remained in them, using for this purpose the point of a
needle, and, when the nests are quite clean, drain them and put them
into the consommé. At this stage set the consommé to boil, gently, for
thirty or thirty-five minutes without interruption. During this time
the gummy portions of the nests will melt into the consommé, giving the
latter its characteristic viscidity, and there will only remain visible
those portions which, in the natural state, constitute the framework
of the nests; that is to say, little threads not unlike superfine
transparent vermicelli.
592—CONSOMMÉ AUX ŒUFS DE FAUVETTE
I introduced this consommé in honour of the illustrious singer, Adelina
Patti.
It consists of a chicken consommé, which should be made as perfect as
possible, and a garnish composed of the poached eggs of small birds.
593—CONSOMMÉ OLGA
Prepare one quart of excellent ordinary consommé, and add thereto, when
about to serve and away from the fire, one-quarter pint of port wine.
Also cut into a fine _julienne_ the quarter of a small celeriac, the
white of a leek, and the red part only of a small carrot. Stew this
_julienne_ in butter and complete its cooking in consommé, reducing the
latter to a glaze.
When about to serve put this _julienne_ in a soup tureen, add a few
tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of salted gherkins, and pour thereon the
consommé with port.
594—CONSOMMÉ D’ORLÉANS
Lay on a buttered tray ten small quenelles of ordinary chicken
forcemeat, ten others of chicken forcemeat combined with a very red
tomato purée, and ten more of the same forcemeat, combined with a purée
of spinach, all the quenelles being grooved.
Ten minutes before serving poach these quenelles, drain them, put them
in the soup-tureen, and pour therein one quart of chicken consommé
thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained
through linen. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
595—CONSOMMÉ D’ORSAY
Prepare one quart of very clear chicken consommé, also make fifteen
small quenelles of pigeon forcemeat moulded to the shape of eggs by
means of a very small spoon, and poach the yolks of ten eggs, taking
care to keep them very soft.
Put the quenelles and the poached yolks into the soup-tureen with
a _julienne_ of three fillets of pigeon and a tablespoonful of
asparagus-heads, and pour thereon the boiling consommé. Serve at once.
596—OX-TAIL SOUP
_For Ten People._—Garnish the bottom of a small stock-pot or stewpan
with one fine carrot and two medium-sized onions cut into roundels
and browned in butter, and one faggot. Add two small ox-tails, or one
of medium size weighing about four lbs. (The tails should be cut into
sections, each of which should contain one of the caudal vertebræ,
and they should then be browned in the oven.) Also add two lbs. of
gelatinous bones, broken very small and likewise browned in the oven.
Now proceed exactly as for brown veal stock (No. 9), taking note that
the whole moistening must consist of no more than two and one-half
quarts of ordinary broth and one quart of water.
Set to boil very gently for four and one-half or five hours. This done,
strain the broth, which should be reduced to two and one-half quarts,
and completely remove its grease. Transfer the largest sections of the
tails, by means of a braiding-needle, one by one to another saucepan.
Cover them with broth, and keep them warm for the garnish.
Finely chop one lb. of very lean beef; put this mince into a saucepan
with the white of a leek cut into dice and half the white of an egg,
and mix thoroughly. Add the broth, the grease of which has been
removed, set to boil, stirring constantly the while, and then leave to
simmer for one hour, which is the time required for the beef to exude
all its juices and for the clarification of the broth.
While the clarification is in progress cut a small carrot in _brunoise
fashion_, or turn it by means of a very small spoon. Cook this garnish
in a little water with butter, salt, and sugar.
A few minutes before serving strain the ox-tail broth through a napkin,
put the sections of ox-tail and _brunoise_ into the soup-tureen, and
pour thereon the prepared broth. This soup may be flavoured with port
or sherry, but this is optional.
N.B.—If a thickened ox-tail soup be required add to the broth per
every quart of it one-third of an oz. of arrowroot diluted with a
little of the broth or some cold water.
597—CONSOMMÉ PARISIENNE
Have one quart of chicken consommé ready.
For the garnish prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of royale made from a
purée of ordinary _julienne_, a small _macédoine_ of vegetables,
comprising one heaped tablespoonful each of carrots and turnips divided
up by means of a small grooved spoon and cooked in the usual way, one
tablespoonful of small peas, the same quantity of fine French beans cut
into lozenges, and one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads.
Cut the royale into regular roundels; put these in the soup-tureen with
the _macédoine_ of vegetables, and, when about to serve, pour thereon
the boiling chicken consommé. Add a pinch of fine chervil _pluches_.
598—LA PETITE MARMITE
_For Ten People._—Prepare a consommé in a special earthenware stock-pot
in accordance with the procedure indicated in recipe No. 1, but with
the following quantities, viz., two lbs. of lean beef and as much
breast of beef, one marrow-bone tied in a muslin-bag, and the necks,
the pinions, and the gizzards of six large fowls, these giblets being
inserted in the stewpan one hour before dishing up.
Moisten with three and one-half quarts of water and add three-quarters
of an oz. of salt. Set to boil, skim as indicated, and cook gently with
the view of obtaining a very clear broth. One hour before serving add
six oz. of carrots and the same quantity of turnips, both cut to the
shape of large olives, five oz. of the white of leeks, and a heart of
celery.
Cook a quarter of a very white, properly _blanched_ cabbage,
separately, in a saucepan with a little consommé and some stock grease.
When about to serve test the seasoning of the consommé, which latter
should be very clear; thoroughly clean the stewpan, which may even be
covered with a clean napkin; withdraw the marrow-bone; take it out of
its muslin-bag, and send it and the cabbage to the table separately,
accompanied by a plate of small pieces of hot toast for the marrow.
599—THE POT-AU-FEU
Prepare this exactly like the Petite Marmite.
600—POULE AU POT, or Poule au Pot Henri IV
This is a variation of the Petite Marmite, in which a tender and very
fleshy hen is substituted for the giblets of fowl.
_Strictly observe_ the rule of never using a new earthenware stock-pot
before having boiled water in it for at least twelve hours. Also bear
in mind that earthenware stock-pots should be washed in hot water
only, without any soda or soap.
601—CONSOMMÉ PRINTANIER
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé, also cut one carrot and
one turnip into roundels one-half inch thick. With a tubular cutter
one-eighth inch in diameter, cut these roundels into little rods,
making a sufficient number to fill one tablespoonful with each
vegetable. Cook these little rods in consommé, and reduce the latter to
a glaze.
Put the carrot and turnip rods into the soup-tureen with one
tablespoonful of small peas, the same quantity of small French beans
and asparagus-heads, the former cut into lozenges, ten roundels of
sorrel leaves, and as many of lettuce leaves, the latter being poached
in some consommé. When about to serve pour the boiling consommé over
these garnishes and add a large pinch of small chervil _pluches_.
602—CONSOMMÉ PRINTANIER AUX QUENELLES
Prepare the printanier exactly as directed above, but slightly lessen
the quantities of the vegetables constituting the garnish.
Make eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat in the shape of
little grooved meringues, and poach them ten minutes before dishing up.
Drain them, put them into the soup-tureen with the other garnishes, and
pour thereon the boiling consommé.
603—CONSOMMÉ AUX PROFITEROLLES
Prepare forty very dry _profiterolles_ (No. 218), and add an excellent
chicken consommé to them at the last moment.
The _profiterolles_ may also be made to the size of walnuts, in which
case they may be stuffed with a purée of chicken, foie gras, &c.
604—CONSOMMÉ RACHEL
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and thicken it with three
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. With a round,
even cutter stamp out twelve roundels of crumb of bread the size of
pennies and one-half inch thick. Poach in consommé as many slices of
very fresh beef-marrow as there are roundels of bread.
Six minutes before serving fry the roundels of bread in clarified
butter, hollow out their centres, and place on each a slice of poached
beef-marrow suitably trimmed.
Put three tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of cooked artichoke bottoms
into the soup-tureen, pour thereon the thickened consommé, and add the
roundels of bread garnished with marrow.
605—CONSOMMÉ REJANE
Prepare one quart of excellent white consommé, set it to boil, and add
a _julienne_ of the white of half a fowl and the heads of two leeks
cut similarly to the fowl. Set to cook gently for ten minutes, taking
care to disturb the consommé as little as possible, add three oz.
of potatoes cut into a _julienne_, complete the cooking, and serve
immediately.
606—CONSOMMÉ RENAISSANCE
Prepare one quart of clear chicken consommé.
For the garnish make two _dariole-moulds_ of royale with a purée of
early-season herbs thickened with velouté and whole eggs; with a
small grooved spoon-cutter pick out one tablespoonful of pellets from
a turnip and the red part only of a carrot. Cook these vegetables
in the usual way. Cut the royale with a grooved fancy-cutter into
pieces of the shape of small leaves. Put the leaves of royale into the
soup-tureen with the carrot and turnip pellets, one tablespoonful of
very green peas, the same quantity of French beans cut into lozenges,
one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads, and twelve very small particles
of very white cauliflower. Pour the boiling consommé over these
garnishes, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
607—CONSOMMÉ RICHELIEU
Have ready one quart of highly-seasoned beef consommé. Also (1) prepare
twelve quenelles of chicken forcemeat moulded by means of a small
coffee-spoon, proceeding as follows:—Line the spoon with a thin coating
of the forcemeat, and in the middle lay some chopped, reduced, cold
chicken aspic. Cover the jelly with a layer of forcemeat, shaping it
like a dome; insert another spoon (first dipped in hot water) under the
quenelle, and place the latter upon a buttered sautépan. Repeat the
operation until the required number of quenelles have been moulded.
Treated in this way, the quenelles, when poached, contain, so to speak,
a liquid core. Five minutes before dishing up, poach the quenelles.
2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin layer of
forcemeat over each; roll into _paupiettes_, and poach in some of the
consommé.
3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and
turnips, stew them in butter, and complete their cooking in the
consommé, which should be thoroughly cleared of grease.
Put the _julienne_, the _paupiettes_, and the stuffed quenelles into
the soup-tureen; pour therein the boiling beef consommé, and add a
pinch of chervil _pluches_.
608—CONSOMMÉ ROSSINI
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, slightly thickened with two
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.
Make eighteen _profiterolles_, from _pâte à choux_ without sugar
(No. 2374), to the size of hazel-nuts. Bake them in a moderate oven,
keeping them very crisp, and garnish them, inside, with a foie-gras and
truffle purée.
When about to serve, pour the consommé into the soup-tureen, and dish
the _profiterolles_ separately, after having placed them in good time
in the front of the oven, so that they may reach the table very hot.
609—CONSOMMÉ ROTHSCHILD
Have ready one quart of game consommé, prepared with pheasant _fumet_.
Add thereto, when about to serve, one-quarter pint of reduced Sauterne.
Make two _dariole-moulds_ of royale from a preparation consisting of
one-third of the whole of purée of pheasant, one-third of chestnut
purée, and one-third of pheasant _salmis_ sauce. Poach the royale; cut
it into grooved roundels, and place these in the soup-tureen with one
tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of fillets of pheasant.
When about to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the garnish.
610—CONSOMMÉ SAINT HUBERT
Take one quart of game consommé, prepared with venison _fumet_. Finish
the consommé, at the time of serving, with one-quarter pint of Marsala.
Make three _dariole-moulds_ of royale from a preparation consisting of
one-third of the whole of venison purée, one-third of lentil purée,
and one-third of reduced game Espagnole. Poach the royale in a small
Charlotte mould, and, when it has cooled, cut it up with a fancy-cutter
of the shape of a cross. Put the crosses of royale into the soup-tureen
with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ consisting of fillets of hare,
and pour thereon the boiling consommé.
611—POTAGE SARAH BERNHARDT
Sprinkle three tablespoonfuls of tapioca into one quart of boiling
chicken consommé, and leave to poach gently for fifteen or eighteen
minutes.
Make twenty small quenelles from chicken forcemeat, finished by means
of crayfish butter, and mould them to the shape of small, grooved
meringues. Poach these quenelles. Cut twelve roundels, the size of a
penny, from a piece of beef-marrow, and poach them in the consommé.
Put the drained quenelles and the poached roundels of marrow into the
soup-tureen; add one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of very black
truffles, and the same quantity of asparagus-heads. Pour the boiling
consommé, with tapioca, over this garnish.
612—CONSOMMÉ SÉVIGNÉ
Keep one quart of very clear chicken consommé very warm.
Prepare ten quenelles of chicken forcemeat, moulded by means of a small
coffee-spoon, and poach them; also have ready four braised lettuces.
Put the quenelles, the lettuce cut into small sections and properly
trimmed, and one tablespoonful of peas into the soup-tureen; pour
therein the boiling consommé and a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
613—CONSOMMÉ SOUVERAINE
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé.
Make ten large quenelles from chicken forcemeat, and stuff them with a
very fine _brunoise_, proceeding as follows:—Line a dessertspoon with
a thin coat of forcemeat, and garnish the centre with the _brunoise_,
previously cooked in consommé, and cold. Cover the _brunoise_ with a
layer of forcemeat, shaping it like a dome; insert another dessertspoon
dipped into hot water under the quenelle, and transfer the latter to a
buttered sautépan. Repeat the operation until the required number of
quenelles have been moulded.
Allow eight minutes for the poaching of these quenelles; put them into
the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of peas; pour thereon the
boiling consommé, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
614—TURTLE SOUP
With the exception of a few leading London restaurants, where a large
quantity of this preparation is constantly in demand, turtle soup is
very rarely prepared in the kitchens of catering establishments. It is
more generally obtained ready-made, either fresh or preserved, and as a
rule of exceptional quality, from firms whose speciality it is to make
it, and who deliver it in excellent condition.
From among the London firms who have deservedly earned a reputation
for this soup, “Pécriaux” may be quoted as one whose produce is quite
irreproachable.
When a comparatively small quantity of this soup is required, it is
best to buy it ready-made; in the event of its being desirable to
prepare it oneself, the following recipe will be found the simplest and
most practical for the purpose.
=Particulars of the Operation=
_The Slaughtering of the Turtle._—For soup, take a turtle weighing from
120 to 180 lbs., and let it be very fleshy and full of life.
To slaughter it, lay it on its back on a table, with its head hanging
over the side. By means of a double butcher’s hook, one spike of which
is thrust into the turtle’s lower jaw, while the other suspends an
adequately heavy weight, make the animal hold its head back; then, with
all possible dispatch, sever the head from the body.
Now immediately hang the body over a receptacle, that the blood may be
collected, and leave it thus for one and one-half or two hours.
Then follows the dismemberment:—To begin with, thrust a strong knife
between the carapace or upper shell and the plastron or lower shell,
exactly where the two meet, and separate the one from the other. The
turtle being on its back, cut all the adhering flesh from the plastron,
and put the latter aside. Now cut off the flippers; remove the
intestines, which throw away, and carefully collect all the green fat.
Whereupon cut away the flesh adhering to the carapace; once more remove
all fat, and keep both in reserve.
_The Treatment of the Carapace, the Plastron, and the Flippers._—The
carapace and plastron, which are the outside bony framework of the
turtle, constitute the only portions wherefrom the gelatinous flesh,
used as the garnish of the soup, are obtained.
Saw the carapace into six or eight pieces, and the plastron into four.
Put these pieces with the flippers into boiling water or into steam,
to _blanch_. Withdraw the flippers as soon as they are sufficiently
stiff for their skin to be removed, and leave the pieces of carapace
and plastron to _blanch_ for five minutes, in order that they may admit
of being scraped. Now cool the pieces of carapace and plastron and
the flippers, and put them into a stewpan containing enough water to
abundantly cover them. Set to boil; garnish with vegetables, as in the
case of an ordinary broth, and add a small quantity of turtle herbs.
Five or six hours should be allowed for the cooking of the carapace and
the plastron, but the flippers, which are put to further uses in other
culinary preparations, should be withdrawn at the end of five hours.
When the pieces are taken from the cooking-liquor, remove all the
flesh from the bones, and cool the former; then trim it carefully,
and cut it into little squares of one and one-half inches side. It is
these squares together with the green fat (poached in salted water and
sliced) which constitute the garnish of the soup.
_The Preparation of Turtle Soup._—There are two modes of procedure,
though their respective results are almost identical.
1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a very
gelatinous beef consommé to it, in pursuance of the method employed
when the turtle soup is bought ready-made.
This procedure is practically the best, more particularly if the soup
has to be kept some time.
2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same quantity
of the latter as of turtle. Also include half a calf’s foot and
one-half lb. of calf’s shin per 3 lbs. of the beef. Add the flesh of
the turtle, or, in the event of its being thought necessary to clarify,
which operation I do not in the least advise, reserve it for that
purpose.
The condiments and aromatics being the same for both methods, I shall
now describe the procedure for method No. 1.
_The Ingredients of the Soup._—Put into a stewpan of convenient size
the flesh of the turtle and its head and bones. Moisten partly with
the cooking-liquor of the carapace, and complete the moistening, in
the case of a turtle weighing 120 lbs., with enough water to bring the
whole to 50 quarts. By this means a soup of about thirty to thirty-five
quarts will be obtained at the end of the operation. Add salt in the
proportion of one oz. per every five quarts; set to boil; skim, and
garnish with twelve carrots, a bunch of leeks (about ten bound with
a head of celery), one lb. of parsley stalks, eight onions with ten
cloves stuck into them, two lbs. of shallots, and one head of garlic.
Set to boil gently for eight hours. An hour before straining the soup,
add to the garnish four strips of lemon-peel, a bunch of herbs for
turtle, comprising sweet basil, sweet marjoram, sage, rosemary, savory,
and thyme, and a bag containing four oz. of coriander and two oz. of
peppercorns.
Finally, strain the soup through a napkin; add the pieces of flesh from
the carapace and plastron which were put aside for the garnish, and
keep it until wanted in specially-made sandstone jars.
_The Serving of the Soup._—When about to serve this soup, heat it; test
and rectify its seasoning, and finish it off by means of a port wine
glass of very old Madeira to every quart.
Very often a milk punch is served with turtle soup, the recipe being:—
_Milk Punch._—Prepare a syrup from one-half pint of water and three and
one-half oz. of sugar, the consistence at the boil being 170° (Baumé’s
Hydrometer). Set to infuse in this syrup two orange and two lemon
_zests_. Strain at the end of ten minutes, and add one-half pint of
rum, one-fifth pint of kirsch, two-thirds pint of milk, and the juice
of three oranges and three lemons. Mix thoroughly. Let it stand for
three hours; filter, and serve cold.
615—CONSOMMÉ TOSCA
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé thickened with three
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.
Also prepare two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of carrots stewed
in butter, the cooking of which is completed in the consommé; ten
small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, combined, in the proportion of
one-third, with foie gras and chopped truffles; ten small, very crisp
_profiterolles_, stuffed with a purée of chicken with pistachio kernels.
Put the quenelles and the _julienne_ into the soup-tureen, pour therein
the boiling consommé, and send the _profiterolles_ to the table
separately, and very hot.
616—CONSOMMÉ VERT PRÉ
Sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of tapioca into one quart of boiling
consommé, and set to cook gently for a quarter of an hour.
Put into the soup-tureen one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads, the same
quantity of peas and of French beans cut into lozenges, a few roundels
of sorrel leaves, and as many roundels of poached lettuce leaves.
Pour the boiling consommé, with tapioca, over this garnish, and add a
large pinch of chervil _pluches_.
617—CONSOMMÉ VILLENEUVE
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé.
Prepare the following garnish:—Two small _blanched_ lettuces, stuffed
with chicken forcemeat combined with braised and chopped salted tongue;
two _dariole-moulds_ of ordinary royale, and two pancakes coated with a
layer of chicken forcemeat, which should be placed in the front of the
oven for a few moments with the view of poaching the forcemeat.
Put the cut-up lettuces, the pancakes cut into small, narrow lozenges,
and the royale cut into pastils, into the soup-tureen; and, when about
to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the whole.
=Special Cold Consommé for Suppers=
_Remarks Relative to the Consommés._—I gave the recipes of these
consommés in Part I. of this work (No. 6), and shall now, therefore,
limit myself to the following remarks, which are of paramount
importance:—
1. These consommés must be perfect in limpidness and quality.
2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet
not too pronounced.
3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the
best possible quality. Rather than make use of inferior wines, the
presence of which in the soup would tend to depreciate its quality,
completely discard wine flavourings.
4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish.
618—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE CAILLES
Use roast quails in the proportion of two for each pint of consommé;
the fillets may be reserved for a cold entrée.
619—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE CÉLERI
It is impossible to state exactly how much celery should be used, the
quantity being entirely subject to the more or less decided flavour of
the vegetables at one’s disposal.
Experience alone can guide the operator in this matter.
620—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE MORILLES
Allow five oz. of small fresh morels, or three oz. of dry ones per
quart of the consommé. Pound them and mix them with the clarification.
621—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE TRUFFLE
Use fresh truffles only in this case. Allow two oz. of peelings and
trimmings per quart of the consommé; pound them and mix them with the
clarification.
622—CONSOMMÉ AU FUMET DE PERDREAU
Proceed as in No. 618; allow one partridge for each quart of the
consommé.
623—CONSOMMÉ AUX PAILLETTES D’OR
Take a very superior chicken consommé; add thereto, per quart, a glass
of excellent liqueur brandy, and, in the same proportion, one gold-leaf
cut into small spangles.
624—CONSOMMÉ AUX PIMENTS DOUX
Add one-half oz. of fresh or preserved capsicum to every quart
of the consommé. The product should be pounded and mixed with the
clarification.
625—CONSOMMÉ A LA MADRILÈNE
Add four oz. of raw tomato and one oz. of capsicum to the consommé
per every quart of the latter. Mix these ingredients with the
clarification, and serve as cold as possible.
626—CONSOMMÉ A LA PORTUGAISE
Add to the consommé for every quart one-third pint of raw tomato
purée and one-sixth pint of tomato juice. Cook with lid on for twenty
minutes, taking care not to let it reach the boil; strain through
muslin, pressing lightly the while, and season moderately with cayenne.
Set to cool, and serve very cold.
627—CONSOMMÉS AUX VINS
By adding a port wine glass full of the chosen wine to one pint of
excellent cold chicken consommé, the following series of consommés may
be made:—
Consommé au vin de Chypre.
Consommé au vin de Madère.
Consommé au vin de Malvoisie.
Consommé au vin de Marsala.
Consommé au vin de Porto doré.
Consommé au vin de Porto rose.
Consommé au vin de Samos.
Consommé au vin de Zucco.
628—GELEE AUX POMMES D’AMOUR
Proceed as for the “Consommé Portugaise,” and use that variety of small
tomatoes which, in Provence, are called “Pommes d’amour.”
629—GELEE DE VOLAILLE A LA NAPOLITAINE
Proceed as for the “Consommé Portugaise,” but finish it with one port
wine-glassful of port or old Marsala per quart.
THICK SOUPS
In Part I., Chapter I., of this work I pointed out what thick soups
consist of. I likewise touched upon the general rules which should be
observed in the preparation of each class of these soups, and showed
how most of them could, if necessary, be converted into and served
as cullises, purées, bisques, veloutés, or creams. The principles
governing these alterations are very simple, and after a moment’s
reflection the operator will thoroughly grasp their import. Be this as
it may, the reader will find the necessary directions at the end of
each recipe that admits of various methods of preparation.
With regard to those recipes which are not followed by any directions
of the sort referred to, and which I simply class under the name of
Potages, these are unalterable preparations which may only be served
in accordance with the directions given. This being clear, the reader
will understand that I have refrained from repeating the quantities
of butter, cream, thickening ingredients, &c., in each recipe. These
particulars having been given in Part I., it will be necessary to refer
to that part of the book for them.
630—PURÉE DE CAROTTES, otherwise CRÉCY
Cut one lb. of the red part only of carrots into fine slices; chop
one onion, and put the whole into a stewpan with a sprig of thyme and
two oz. of butter. Stew gently for twenty minutes, and season with a
pinch of salt and sugar. Add the thickening ingredient, _i.e._, either
two oz. of rice or five and one-half oz. of bread dice fried in butter;
also add one and one-half pints of white consommé, and set to cook very
gently.
Rub through tammy, test the consistence, despumate, and add butter when
dishing up.
Ordinary garnish: small bread dice fried in butter.
Occasional garnish: poached Japanese pearls in the proportion of two
tablespoonfuls per quart of the soup.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream or a velouté à la Nivernaise
(see No. 674).
631—PURÉE DE CAROTTES AU TAPIOCA, otherwise VELOURS
Make one pint of carrot purée as above, and poach two tablespoonfuls of
tapioca in a pint of white consommé.
When about to serve, and after having buttered the purée of carrots,
mix therewith the prepared tapioca.
632—PURÉE DE CÉLERI-RAVE
Finely mince one lb. of celeriac; _blanch_ it; thoroughly drain it,
and stew it gently in one oz. of butter. Moisten with one quart of
white consommé; add two medium-sized potatoes, minced, and set to cook
gently. Rub through tammy; despumate the purée gently for half an hour,
and add butter when dishing up.
Garnish: small bread dice fried in butter.
633—PURÉE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES, otherwise FLAMANDE
Parboil and drain one lb. of very fresh Brussels sprouts. Set them to
stew gently in three oz. of butter; moisten with one pint of white
consommé; for the leason add two medium-sized quartered potatoes, and
complete the cooking.
Rub the whole through tammy, finish the purée with milk, despumate it
in the usual way, and add butter when dishing up. Garnish with small
bread dice fried in butter.
634—PURÉE DE CHOUX-FLEURS, otherwise DUBARRY
Parboil one lb. of cauliflower divided into bunches.
Drain them and put them in a saucepan with one pint of boiled milk
and two medium-sized minced potatoes for the thickening. Set to cook
gently, rub through tammy, finish with boiled milk, despumate, and add
butter.
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream with small
pieces of cauliflower as garnish.
635—PURÉE DE CROSNES, otherwise JAPONAISE
Parboil and drain one lb. of well-cleaned stachys. Stew them in one oz.
of butter; moisten with one pint of boiled milk or white consommé,
according as to whether the purée is to be a Lenten one or not; add two
medium-sized minced potatoes, and complete the cooking gently.
Rub through tammy, test the consistence, and add, if necessary, either
a little boiled milk or some consommé; despumate, and add butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in consommé
or milk.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
636—PURÉE DE FLAGEOLETS, otherwise MUSARD
Cook together with the ordinary aromatic garnish three-quarters pint of
dry flageolets, or, if they are in season, use twice that quantity of
fresh ones.
Drain, pound, and moisten the purée with a little of the cooking-liquor
of the flageolets, rub through tammy, and rectify the consistence
with some white consommé and the necessary quantity of boiled milk.
Despumate, and butter it when about to dish up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream, but for either
of the latter it is preferable to use fresh flageolets, the garnish for
both consisting of very small flageolets and chervil _pluches_.
637—PURÉE DE HARICOTS BLANCS, otherwise SOISSONNAISE
Cook in the usual way, that is to say, with carrots, a faggot, and one
onion stuck with a clove, a good half-pint of dry haricot beans.
Crush all these, moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of their
cooking-liquor, and rub through tammy.
Rectify the consistence of the purée with the necessary quantity of
white consommé and milk, despumate, add butter when about to dish up,
and garnish with small bread dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
638—PURÉE DE HARICOTS VERTS, otherwise CORMEILLES
Parboil one and one-half lbs. of French beans and keep them very green.
After having well drained them, stew them for ten or twelve minutes in
one oz. of butter, moisten with one pint of white consommé, and add two
medium-sized minced potatoes for the thickening.
Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, rectify the consistence of the
purée with a little boiled milk, despumate, and add butter when dishing
up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of cooked French beans cut into narrow
lozenges.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
639—PURÉE DE HARICOTS ROUGES, otherwise CONDÉ
Put a heaped pint of red beans into cold water, set to boil slowly,
skim, add three oz. of carrots, one small faggot, one onion stuck with
a clove, and a bottleful of boiling red wine. Set to cook gently.
Drain the beans and crush them in a mortar. Moisten the purée with a
few tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of the beans, rub through
tammy, rectify the consistence of the purée with some white consommé,
follow the procedure of all purées, and add butter when about to serve.
Garnish with bread dice fried in butter.
640—PURÉE DE LENTILLES, otherwise CONTI
Soak three-quarters of a pint of lentils in lukewarm water for two
hours. Put them in a stewpan with two oz. of very lean breast of bacon,
_blanched_, cooled, and cut into dice, and one quart of white consommé.
Set to boil, skim, add three oz. of carrots, one onion, and one faggot,
and cook very gently.
Drain the lentils, pound them together with the bacon, moisten the
purée with a few tablespoonfuls of cooking-liquor, and rub through
tammy. Rectify the consistence with some reserved cooking-liquor, then
treat the purée in the usual way and add butter when about to serve.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of bread dice fried in butter and a
pinch of chervil _pluches_.
N.B.—It should be borne in mind that the aromatic garnish used in
cooking dry vegetables of what kind soever should be withdrawn before
pounding the latter, that they may be rubbed through tammy.
641—PURÉE DE NAVETS, otherwise FRENEUSE