of stearine, as well as a few drops of an essential oil. To the hot
liquid add with careful stirring 250 parts of ammonia lye of 10 per
cent, whereby a thick, soft mass results immediately. Upon further
heating same turns thin again, whereupon it is diluted with 20,000
parts of boiling water, mixed with 100 parts of starch and poured into
molds.
«STARCHES.»
Most laundry starches now contain some polishing mixture for giving a
high luster.
I.—Dissolve in a vessel of sufficient capacity, 42 parts of
crystallized magnesium chloride in 30 parts of water. In another vessel
stir 12 parts of starch in 20 parts of water to a smooth paste. Mix the
two and heat under pressure until the starch is fluidified.
II.—Pour 250 parts, by weight, of water, over 5 parts, by weight, of
powdered gum tragacanth until the powder swells uniformly; then add 750
parts, by weight, of boiling water, dissolve 50 parts, by weight, of
borax in it, and stir 50 parts, by weight, of stearine and 50 parts, by
weight, of talcum into the whole. Of this fluid add 250 parts to 1,000
parts of boiled starch, or else the ironing oil is applied by means of
a sponge on the starched wash, which is then ironed.
By weight
III.—Starch 1,044 parts
Borax 9 parts
Common salt 1 part
Gum arabic 8 parts
Stearine 20 parts
«WASHING FLUIDS, BRICKS AND POWDERS:»
«Washing Fluids.»—Rub up 75 parts of milk of sulphur with 125 parts of
glycerine in a mortar, next add 50 parts of camphorated spirit and 1
part of lavender oil, and finally stir in 250 parts of rose water and
1,000 parts of distilled water. The liquid must be stirred constantly
when filling it into bottles, since the sulphur settles rapidly and
would thus be unevenly distributed.
«Grosser’s Washing Brick.»—
Water 54 parts
Sodium hydrate 38.21 parts
Sodium biborate 6.61 parts
Sodium silicate 1.70 parts
«Haenkel’s Bleaching Solution.»—
Water 36.15 parts
Sodium hydrate 40.22 parts
Sodium silicate 23.14 parts
«Luhn’s Washing Extract.»—
Water 34.50 parts
Sodium hydrate 25.33 parts
Soap 39.40 parts
«Washing Powders.»—
I.—Sodium carbonate, partly effloresced 2 parts
Soda ash 1 part
II.—Sodium carbonate, partly effloresced 6 parts
Soda ash 3 parts
Yellow soap 1 part
III.—Sodium carbonate, partly effloresced 3 parts
Soap bark 1 part
IV.—Sodium carbonate, partly effloresced 1 part
Borax 1 part
Yellow soap 1 part
V.—A good powder can be made from 100 parts of crystal soda, 25 parts
of dark-yellow rosin-cured soap, and 5 parts of soft soap. The two
latter are placed in a pan, along with one-half the soda (the curd
soap being cut into small lumps), and slowly heated, with continual
crutching, until they are thoroughly melted—without, however, beginning
to boil. The fire is then drawn and the remaining soda crutched in
until it, too, is melted, this being effected by the residual heat of
the mass and the pan. The mass will be fairly thick by the time the
soda is all absorbed. After leaving a little longer, with occasional
stirring, the contents are spread out on several thin sheets of iron in
a cool room, to be then turned over by the shovel at short intervals,
in order to further cool and break down the mixture. The soap will
then be in a friable condition, and can be rubbed through the sieve,
the best results being obtained by passing through a coarse sieve
first, and one of finer mesh afterwards. With these ingredients a fine
yellow-colored powder will be obtained. White stock soap may also be
used, and, if desired, colored with palm oil and the same colorings
as are used for toilet soaps. The object of adding soft soap is to
increase the solubility and softness of the powder, but the proportion
used should not exceed one-third of the hard soap, or the powder will
be smeary and handle moist. The quality of the foregoing product is
good, the powder being stable and not liable to ball, even after
prolonged storage; neither does it wet the paper in which it is packed,
nor swell up, and therefore the packets retain their appearance. {446}
In making ammonia-turpentine soap powder the ammonia and oil of
turpentine are crutched into the mass shortly before removing it from
the pan, and if the powder is scented—for which purpose oil of mirbane
is mostly used—the perfume is added at the same stage.
«To Whiten Flannels.»—Dissolve, by the aid of heat, 40 parts of white
castile soap, shaved fine, in 1,200 parts of soft water, and to the
solution, when cold, gradually add, under constant stirring, 1 part
of the strongest water of ammonia. Soak the goods in this solution
for 2 hours, then let them be washed as usual for fine flannels. A
better process, in the hands of experts, is to soak the goods for an
hour or so in a dilute solution of sodium hyposulphite, remove, add
to the solution sufficient dilute hydrochloric acid to decompose the
hyposulphite. Replace the goods, cover the tub closely, and let remain
for 15 minutes longer. Then remove the running water, if convenient,
and if not, wring out quickly, and rinse in clear water. One not an
expert at such work must be very careful in the rinsing, as care must
be taken to get out every trace of chemical. This is best done by a
second rinsing.
«Ink for the Laundry.»—The following is said to make a fine, jet-black
laundry ink:
_a._ Copper chloride, crystals 85 parts
Sodium chlorate 106 parts
Ammonium chloride 53 parts
Water, distilled 600 parts
_b._ Glycerine 100 parts
Mucilage gum arabic (gum, 1 part; water, 2 parts) 200 parts
Aniline hydrochlorate 200 parts
Distilled water 300 parts
Make solutions _a_ and _b_ and preserve in separate bottles. When
wanted for use, mix 1 part of solution _a_ with 4 parts of solution _b_.
«Laces, Curtains, etc.»—I.—To give lace curtains, etc., a cream color,
take 1 part of chrysoidin and mix with 2 parts of dextrin and dissolve
in 250 parts of water. The articles to be washed clean are plunged
in this solution. About an ounce of chrysoidin is sufficient for 5
curtains.
II.—Washing curtains in coffee will give them an ecru color, but the
simplest way to color curtains is with “Philadelphia yellow” (G. or R.
of the Berlin _Aktiengesellschaft’s_ scale).
LAUNDRY SOAP: See Soap.
LAVATORY DEODORANT: See Household Formulas.
LAXATIVES FOR CATTLE AND HORSES: See Veterinary Formulas.
«LEAD:»
See also Metals.
«Simple Test for Red Lead and Orange Lead.»—Take a little of the sample
in a test tube, add pure, strong nitric acid and heat by a Bunsen
burner until a white, solid residue is obtained. Then add water, when
a clear, colorless solution will be obtained. A white residue would
indicate adulteration with barytes, a red residue or a yellow solution
with oxide of iron. The presence of iron may be ascertained by adding
a few drops of a solution of potassium ferrocyanide (yellow prussiate
of potash) to the solution, when a blue precipitate will be obtained if
there be the least trace of iron present.
LEAD, TO TAKE BOILING, IN THE MOUTH: See Pyrotechnics.
LEAD ALLOYS: See Alloys.
LEAD PAPER: See Paper.
LEAD PLATE, TINNED: See Plating.
LEAKS, IN BOILERS, STOPPING: See Putties.
«LEAKS:»
«To Stop Leakage in Iron Hot-Water Pipes.»—Take some fine iron borings
or filings and mix with them sufficient vinegar to form a sort of
paste, though the mixture is not adhesive. With this mixture fill up
the cracks where the leakage is found, having previously dried the
pipe. It must be kept dry until the paste has become quite hard. If an
iron pipe should burst, or there should be a hole broken into it by
accident, a piece of iron may be securely fastened over it, by bedding
it on in paste made of the borings and vinegar as above, but the pipe
should not be disturbed until it has become perfectly dry.
«To Prevent Wooden Vessels from Leaking.» (See also Casks.)—Wooden
{447} vessels, such as pails, barrels, etc., often become so dry that
the joints do not meet, thus causing leakage. In order to obviate this
evil stir together 60 parts hog’s lard, 40 parts salt, and 33 parts
wax, and allow the mixture to dissolve slowly over a fire. Then add 40
parts charcoal to the liquid mass. The leaks in the vessels are dried
off well and filled up with putty while still warm. When the latter has
become dry, the barrels, etc., will be perfectly tight. If any putty is
left, keep in a dry place and heat it to be used again.
«Leather»
(See also Shoes.)
«Artificial Leather.»—Pure Italian hemp is cut up fine; 1 part of this
and 1/2 part of coarse, cleaned wool are carded together and formed
into wadding. This wadding is packed in linen and felted by treatment
with hot acid vapors. The resulting felt is washed out, dried, and
impregnated with a substance whose composition varies according to
the leather to be produced. Thus, good sole leather, for instance, is
produced according to a Danish patent, in the following manner: Mix
together 50 parts of boiled linseed oil; 20 parts of colophony; 25
parts of French turpentine; 10 parts of glycerine, and 10 parts of
vegetable wax, and heat over a water bath with some ammonia water.
When the mass has become homogeneous, add 25 parts of glue, soaked
in water, as well as a casein solution, which latter is produced by
dissolving 50 parts, by weight, of moist, freshly precipitated casein
in a saturated solution of 16 parts of borax and adding 10 parts of
potassium bichromate, the last two also by weight. Finally, mineral
dyestuffs as well as antiseptic substances may be added to the mass.
The whole mixture is now boiled until it becomes sticky and the felt is
impregnated with it by immersion. The impregnated felt is dried for 24
hours at an ordinary temperature; next laid into a solution of aluminum
acetate and finally dried completely, dyed, and pressed between hot
rollers.
«Black Dye for Tanned Leather.»—This recipe takes the place of the
ill-smelling iron blacking, and is not injurious to the leather.
Gallnuts, pulverized, 150 parts; vitriol, green or black, 10 parts;
rock candy, 60 parts; alum, 15 parts; vinegar, 250 parts; cooking salt,
20 parts. Dissolve with 4,000 parts of distilled water.
Boil this solution slowly and the blacking is done. When it has cooled
and settled, pour through linen, thus obtaining a pure, good leather
blacking.
«Bronze Leather.»—All sorts of skins—sheepskins, goatskins, coltskins,
and light calfskins—are adapted for the preparation of bronze leather.
In this preparation the advantage lies not only in the use of the
faultless skins, but scarified skins and those of inferior quality may
also be employed. The dressing of the previously tanned skin must be
carried out with the greatest care, to prevent the appearance of spots
and other faults. After tanning, the pelts are well washed, scraped,
and dried. Then they are bleached. For coloring, it is customary to
employ methyl violet which has previously been dissolved in hot water,
taking 100 parts, by weight, of the aniline color to 8,000 parts, by
weight, of water. If in the leather-dressing establishment a line of
steam piping be convenient, it is advisable to boil up all the coloring
dyes, rather than simply to dissolve them; for in this way complete
solution is effected. Where steam is used no special appliance is
required for boiling up the dyes, for this may take place without
inconvenience in the separate dye vats. A length of steam hose and a
brass nozzle with a valve is all that is needed. It may be as well to
add here that the violet color for dyeing may be made cheaper than as
above described. To 3,000 parts, by weight, of pretty strong logwood
decoction add 50 parts, by weight, of alum and 100 parts, by weight,
of methyl violet. This compound is almost as strong as the pure violet
solution, and instead of 8,000 parts, by weight, we now have 30,000
parts, by weight, of color.
The color is applied and well worked in with a stiff brush, and the
skins allowed to stand for a short time, sufficient to allow the dye to
penetrate the pores, when it is fulled. As for the shade of the bronze,
it may be made reddish, bluish, or brownish, according to taste.
For a reddish or brownish ground the skins are simply fulled in warm
water, planished, fulled again, and then dyed. According to the color
desired, the skins are treated with cotton blue and methyl violet R,
whereupon the application of the bronze follows.
The bronze is dissolved in alcohol, and it is usual to take 200 parts,
by weight, of bronze to 1,000 of alcohol. By means of this mixture the
peculiar component parts of the bronze are dissolved. For a fundamental
or thorough {448} solution a fortnight is required. All bronze mixtures
are to be well shaken or agitated before using. Skins may be bronzed,
however, without the use of the bronze colors, for it is well known
that all the aniline dyes present a bronze appearance when highly
concentrated, and this is particularly the case with the violet and red
dyes. If, therefore, the violet be applied in very strong solutions,
the effect will be much the same as when the regular bronze color is
employed.
Bronze color on a brown ground is the most beautiful of all, and
is used to the greatest advantage when it is desirable to cover up
defects. Instead of warm clear water in such a case, use a decoction
of logwood to which a small quantity of alum has been added, and thus,
during the fulling, impart to the skins a proper basic tint, which may,
by the application of a little violet or bronze color, be converted
into a most brilliant bronze. By no means is it to be forgotten that
too much coloring matter will never produce the desired results, for
here, as with the other colors, too much will bring out a greenish
tint, nor will the gloss turn out so beautiful and clear. Next rinse
the skins well in clean water, and air them, after which they may be
dried with artificial heat. Ordinary as well as damaged skins which are
not suitable for chevreaux (kid) and which it is desirable to provide
with a very high polish, in order the more readily to conceal the
defects in the grain, and other imperfections, are, after the drying,
coated with a mixture, compounded according to the following simple
formula: Stir well 1 pint of ox blood and 1 pint of unboiled milk in
10 quarts of water, and with a soft sponge apply this to the surface
of the skin. The blood has no damaging effect upon the color. Skins
thus moistened must not be laid one upon another, but must be placed
separately in a thoroughly well-warmed chamber to dry. When dry they
are glossed, and may then be pressed into shagreen or pebbled. The thin
light goatskins are worked into kid or chevreaux. Properly speaking,
they are only imitation chevreaux (kid), for although they are truly
goatskins, under the term chevreaux one understands only such skins as
have been cured in alum and treated with albumen and flour.
After drying, these skins are drawn over the perching stick with the
round knife, then glossed, stretched, glossed again, and finally
vigorously brushed upon the flesh side with a stiff brush. The brushing
should be done preferably by hand, for the brushing machines commonly
pull the skins out of all shape. Brushing is intended only to give the
flesh side more of a flaky appearance.
During the second glossing care must be taken that the pressure is
light, for the object is merely to bring the skin back into its proper
shape, lost in the stretching; the glossing proper should have been
accomplished during the first operation.
«Cracked Leather.»—The badly cracked and fissured carriage surface
greets the painter on every hand. The following is the recipe for
filling up and facing over such a surface: Finest pumice stone, 6
parts; lampblack (in bulk), 1 part; common roughstuff filler, 3 parts.
Mix to stiff paste in good coach japan, 5 parts; hard drying rubbing
varnish, 1 part. Thin to a brushing consistency with turpentine, and
apply 1 coat per day. Put on 2 coats of this filler and then 2 coats
of ordinary roughstuff. Rub with lump pumice stone and water. This
process does not equal burning off in getting permanently rid of the
cracks, but when the price of painting forbids burning off, it serves
as an effective substitute. Upon a job that is well cared for, and not
subjected to too exacting service, this filler will secrete the cracks
and fissures for from 3 to 5 months.
«DRESSINGS FOR LEATHER:»
«For Carriage Tops.»—I.—Here is an inexpensive and quickly prepared
dressing for carriage tops or the like: Take 2 parts of common glue;
soak and liquefy it over a fire. Three parts of castile soap are
then dissolved over a moderate heat. Of water, 120 parts are added
to dissolve the soap and glue, after which an intimate mixture of
the ingredients is effected. Then 4 parts of spirit varnish are
added; next, 2 parts of wheat starch, previously mixed in water, are
thrown in. Lampblack in a sufficient quantity to give the mixture a
good coloring power, without killing the gloss, is now added. This
preparation may be used as above prepared, or it may be placed over
a gentle fire and the liquid ingredients slowly evaporated. The
evaporated mass is then liquefied with beer as shop needs demand.
II.—Shabby dark leather will look like new if rubbed over with either
linseed oil or the well-beaten white of an egg mixed with a little
black ink. Polish with soft dusters until quite dry and glossy.
«Polishes.»—I.—Dissolve sticklac, 25 {449} parts; shellac, 20 parts;
and gum benzoin, 4 parts, all finely powdered, in a rolling cask
containing 100 parts of 96 per cent alcohol; perfume with 1 part of oil
of rosemary. Upon letting stand for several days, filter the solution,
whereupon a good glossy polish for leather, etc., will be obtained.
II.—Dissolve 2 pounds of borax in 4 gallons of water and add 5 pounds
of shellac to the boiling liquid in portions, till all is dissolved.
Then boil half an hour, and finally stir in 5 pounds of sugar, 2 1/2
pounds of glycerine, and 1 1/2 pounds of soluble nigrosin. When cold
add 4 pounds of 95 per cent methylated spirit.
III.—Ox blood, fresh, clean 1,000 parts
Commercial glycerine 200 parts
Oil of turpentine 300 parts
Pine oil (rosin oil) 5,000 parts
Ox gall 200 parts
Formalin 15 parts
Mix in the order named, stirring in each ingredient. When mixed strain
through linen.
«Kid Leather Dressings.»—Creams for greasing fine varieties of leather,
such as kid, patent leather, etc., are produced as follows, according
to tried recipes:
White Cream.—
Lard 75 parts
Glycerine, technical 25 parts
Mirbane oil, ad libitum.
Black Cream.—
Lard 100 parts
Yellow vaseline 20 parts
Glycerine, technical 10 parts
Castor oil, technical 10 parts
Dye black with lampblack and perfume with oil of mirbane.
Colored Cream.—
Lard 100 parts
Castor oil 20 parts
Yellow wax 25 parts
White vaseline 30 parts
Dye with any desired dyestuff, e. g., red with anchusine, green with
chlorophyl. In summer it is well to add some wax to the first and
second prescriptions.
These are for either Morocco or kid:
I.—Shellac 2 parts
Benzoin 2 parts
Yellow wax 5 parts
Soap liniment 7 parts
Alcohol 600 parts
Digest until solution is effected, then allow the liquid to stand in a
cool place for 12 hours and strain. Apply with a bit of sponge or soft
rag; spread thinly and evenly over the surface, without rubbing much.
If dirty, the leather should first be washed with a little soft soap
and warm water, wiped well, and allowed to dry thoroughly before the
dressing is put on.
II.—Oil of turpentine 8 ounces
Suet 2 pounds
Soft soap 8 ounces
Water 16 ounces
Lampblack 4 ounces
«Patent Leather Dressings.»—
I.—Wax 22 parts
Olive oil 60 parts
Oil turpentine, best 20 parts
Lavender oil 10 parts
With gentle heat, melt the wax in the oil, and as soon as melted remove
from the fire. Add the turpentine oil, incorporate, and when nearly
cold, add and incorporate the lavender oil.
II.—Wax 22 parts
Olive oil 60 parts
Oil of turpentine 30 parts
With gentle heat, melt the wax in the olive oil, and as soon as melted
remove from the fire. When nearly cold stir in the turpentine.
«Red Russia Leather Varnish.»—
Shellac 1.20 parts
Dammar rosin, powdered 0.15 parts
Turpentine, Venice 0.60 parts
Dissolve with frequent shaking in 12 parts of alcohol (95 per cent),
add 1.8 parts of powdered red sanders wood, let stand for 3 days and
filter. The object of this varnish is to restore the original color to
worn Russia leather boots, previously cleaned with benzine.
«Russet Leather Dressing.»—The following formulas are said to yield
efficient preparations that are at once detersive and polishing, thus
rendering the use of an extra cleaning liquid unnecessary.
I.—Soft soap 2 parts
Linseed oil 3 parts
Annatto solution (in oil) 8 parts
Beeswax 3 parts
Turpentine 8 parts
Water 8 parts
Dissolve the soap in the water, and add the annatto; melt the wax
in the oil and turpentine, and gradually stir in the soap solution,
stirring until cold. {450}
II.—Palm oil 16 parts
Common soap 48 parts
Oleic acid 32 parts
Glycerine 10 parts
Tannic acid 1 part
Melt the soap and palm oil together at a gentle heat, and add the oleic
acid; dissolve the tannic acid in the glycerine, add to the hot soap
and oil mixture, and stir until perfectly cold.
«Shoe Leather Dressing.»—Over a water bath melt 50 parts, by weight, of
oil of turpentine; 100 parts, by weight, of olive oil; 100 parts, by
weight, of train oil; 40 parts, by weight, of carnauba wax; 15 parts,
by weight, of asphaltum; and 2 parts, by weight, of oil of bitter
almonds.
«DYEING LEATHER.»
In dyeing leather, aniline or coal-tar colors are generally used. These
dyes, owing to their extremely rapid action on organic substances,
such as leather, do not readily adapt themselves to the staining
process, because a full brushful of dye liquor would give a much deeper
coloration than a half-exhausted brush would give. Consequently,
to alter and to color leather by the staining process results in a
patchy coloration of the skin. In the dyeing operation a zinc shallow
trough, 4 to 6 inches deep, is used, into which the dye liquor is
put, and to produce the best results the contents of the trough are
kept at a uniform temperature by means of a heating apparatus beneath
the trough, such as a gas jet or two, which readily allows of a heat
being regulated. The skins to be dyed are spread out flat in the dye
trough, one at a time, each skin remaining in the dye liquor the time
prescribed by the recipe. The best coloration of the skin is produced
by using 3 dye troughs of the same dye liquor, each of different
strength, the skin being put in the weakest liquor first, then passed
into the second, and from there into the third dye liquor, where it is
allowed to remain until its full depth of color is obtained. Very great
skill is required in the employment of aniline dyes, as if the heat be
too great, or the skins remain too long in the final bath, “bronzing”
of the color occurs. The only remedy for this (and that not always
effectual) is to sponge the skin with plenty of cold, clean water,
directly it is taken out of the final dye bath. The dyed skins are
dried and finished as before.
«Leather Brown.»—
Extract of fustic 5 ounces
Extract of hypernic 1 ounce
Extract of logwood 1/2 ounce
Water 2 gallons
Boil all these ingredients for 15 minutes, and then dilute with water
to make 10 gallons of dye liquor. Use the dye liquor at a temperature
of 110° F.
Mordant.—Dissolve 3 ounces of white tartar and 4 ounces of alum in 10
gallons of water.
«Fast Brown.»—Prepare a dye liquor by dissolving 1 1/2 ounces fast
brown in 1 gallon of water, and make a 10-gallon bulk of this. Use at
a temperature of 110° F., and employ the same mordanting liquor as in
last recipe.
«Bismarck Brown.»—
Extract of fustic 4 ounces
Extract of hypernic 1 ounce
Extract of logwood 1/2 ounce
Water 2 gallons
Preparation.—Boil all together for 15 minutes.
Method of Dyeing.—First mordant the skins with a mordanting fluid
made by dissolving 3 ounces tartar and 1/2 ounce borax in 10 gallons
of water. Then put the skins into the above foundation bath at a
temperature of 100° F. Take them out, and then put in 1 ounce of
Bismarck brown, dissolved in boiling water. Put the skins in again
until colored deep enough, then lift out, drip and dry.
«HARNESS PREPARATIONS:»