is soluble in methylated spirit, such as cochineal, saffron, the
aniline dyes, etc. Filter through fine cambric, and to this filtered
solution add brown shellac in flakes in the proportion of 4 to 5 ounces
of shellac to each pint of methylated spirit. Shake once a day for
about 8 days. If too thick it may be thinned by adding more colored
spirit or plain spirit as required, and any lighter shade can be
obtained by mixing with plain lacquer mixed in the above proportions.
Lacquer works best in a warm, dry place, and the process is improved
by slightly warming the articles, which must be absolutely free from
grease, dirt, or moisture. The best results are obtained by applying
many coats of thin, light-colored lacquer, each coat to be thoroughly
dry before applying the next.
Apply with a soft camel’s-hair brush; it is better to use too small
a brush than too large. When complete, warm the articles for a few
seconds before a clear fire; the hotter the better; if too hot,
however, the colors will fade. This makes the lacquer adhere firmly,
especially to metallic surfaces. Aniline green works very well.
«Lacquer for Copper.»—A lacquer which to a certain degree resists heat
and acid liquids, but not alkaline ones, is obtained by heating fine,
thickly liquid amber varnish, whereby it is rendered sufficiently
liquid to be applied with the brush. The copper article is coated with
this and left to stand until the lacquer has dried perfectly. Next, the
object is heated until the lacquer commences to smoke and turns brown.
If the operation is repeated twice, a coating is finally obtained,
which, as regards resisting qualities to acid bodies, excels even
enamel, but which is strongly attacked even by weakly alkaline liquids.
«Ebony Lacquer.»—The ebony lacquer recommended by the well-known
English authority, Mr. H. C. Standage, consists of 1/3 ounce aniline
hydrochloride, 1/3 ounce alcohol, 1 part sulphate of copper, 100
parts of water. The aniline dye is dissolved in the alcohol and the
copper sulphate in the water. The wood is first coated with the copper
sulphate solution, and after this coating has been given plenty of
time to dry the aniline salt tincture is applied. Shortly the copper
salt absorbed by the wood will react on the aniline hydrochloride,
developing a deep, rich black which acids or alkalies are powerless to
destroy. Coat with shellac and give a French polish, thus bringing the
ebony finish up to a durable and unsurpassed luster. {440}
«GOLD LACQUERS:»
I.—For Brassware.—A gold lacquer to improve the natural color of
brassware is prepared from 16 parts gum lac, 4 parts dragon’s blood,
and 1 part curcuma powder dissolved in 320 parts spirits of wine in
the warmth and filtered well. The articles must be thoroughly cleaned
by burning, grinding, or turning either dull or burnished, and then
coated with a thin layer of the above mixture, applied with a soft
hair brush or a pad of wadding. If the objects are colored the lacquer
must be laid on by stippling. Should the color be too dark, it may be
lightened by reduction with a little spirit until the correct shade is
produced. The most suitable temperature for the metal during the work
is about the warmth of the hand; if too hot or too cold, the lacquer
may smear, and will then have to be taken off again with spirit or
hot potash lye, the goods being dried in sawdust or recleaned as at
first, before applying the lacquer again. Round articles may be fixed
in the lathe and the lacquer laid on with a pad of wadding. In order to
color brassware, a solution of 30 parts caustic soda; 10 parts cupric
carbonate; 200 parts water (or 200 parts ammonia neutralized by acetic
acid); 100 parts verdigris, and 60 parts sal ammoniac is employed,
into which the warmed articles are dipped. After having dried they are
coated with colorless shellac varnish.
II.—For Tin.—Transparent gold lacquer for tin (all colors) may be made
as follows: Take 1/2 pint of alcohol, add 1 ounce gum shellac; 1/2
ounce turmeric; 1 1/4 ounce red sanders. Set the vessel in a warm
place and shake frequently for half a day. Then strain off the liquor,
rinse the bottle and return it, corking tightly for use. When this is
used, it must be applied to the work freely and flowed on full, or if
the work admits it, it may be dipped. One or more coats may be given
as the color is required light or dark. For rose color substitute
1/4 ounce of finely ground lake in place of the turmeric. For blue,
substitute Prussian blue. For purple, add a little of the blue to the
turmeric.
For Bottle Caps, etc.—
I.—Gum gutta 10 parts
Shellac 100 parts
Turpentine 10 parts
Alcohol 450 parts
II.—Gum gutta 40 parts
Dragon’s blood 5 parts
Alcoholic extract of sandalwood 5 parts
Sandarac 75 parts
Venice turpentine 25 parts
Alcohol, 95 per cent 900 parts
Mix and dissolve by the aid of a gentle heat.
«Liquid Bottle Lac.»—Into a half-gallon bottle put 8 ounces of shellac,
and pour over it 1 1/2 pints of alcohol of 94 per cent, and 2 1/2
ounces of sulphuric ether. Let stand, with occasional shaking, until
the shellac is melted, and then add 4 ounces of thick turpentine and
1/2 ounce of boric acid. Shake until dissolved. To color, use the
aniline colors soluble in alcohol—for red, eosine; blue, phenol blue;
black, negrosin; green, aniline green; violet, methyl violet, etc.
If it is desired to have the lac opaque, add 8 ounces of pulverized
steatite, but remember to keep the lac constantly stirred while using,
as otherwise the steatite falls to the bottom.
«Lithographic Lacquer.»—Dissolve 15 parts, by weight, of red lithol R
or G in paste of 17 per cent, in 150 parts, by weight, of hot water.
Boil for 2 minutes, shaking with 2.5 parts, by weight, of barium
chloride. Dissolve in 25 parts, by weight, of water. Add to the mixture
100 parts, by weight, of aluminum hydrate of about 4 per cent. Cool,
filter, and dry.
«Lacquer for Microscopes, Mathematical Instruments, etc.»—Pulverize 160
parts, by weight, turmeric root, cover it with 1,700 parts alcohol,
digest in a warm place for 24 hours, and then filter. Dissolve 80
parts dragon’s blood, 80 parts sandarac, 80 parts gum elemi, 50 parts
gum gutta, and 70 parts seed lac, put in a retort with 250 parts
powdered glass, pour over them the colored alcohol first made, and
hasten solution by warming in the sand or water bath. When completely
dissolved, filter.
«To Fix Alcoholic Lacquers on Metallic Surfaces.»—Dissolve 0.5 parts
of crystallized boracic acid in 100 parts of the respective spirit
varnish whereby the latter after being applied forms so hard a coating
upon a smooth tin surface that it cannot be scratched off even with the
finger-nails. The aforementioned percentage of boracic acid should not
be exceeded in preparing the solution; otherwise the varnish will lose
in intensity of color.
«Lacquer for Oil Paintings.»—Dilute 100 parts of sulphate of baryta
with 600 parts of water containing in solution 60 parts of red lithol
R or G in paste of 17 {441} per cent. Boil the mixture for several
minutes in a solution of 10 parts of barium chloride in 100 parts of
water. After cooling, filter and dry.
«Lacquers for Papers.»—I.—With base of baryta: Dissolve 30 parts of red
lithol R or G in paste of 17 per cent, in 300 parts of hot water. Add
an emulsion obtained by mixing 10 parts of sulphate of alumina in 100
parts of water and 5 parts of calcined soda dissolved in 50 parts of
water. Precipitate with a solution of 17.5 parts of barium chloride in
125 parts of water. Cool and filter.
II.—With base of lime: Dissolve 30 parts red lithol R or G in paste of
17 per cent, in 300 parts of hot water. Boil for a few minutes with an
emulsion prepared by mixing 10 parts sulphate of alumina with 100 parts
of water and 2.5 parts of slaked lime in 100 parts of water. Filter
after cooling.
«Lacquer for Stoves and other Articles to Withstand Heat.»—This is
not altered by heat, and does not give off disagreeable odors on
heating: Thin 1 part of sodium water glass with 2 parts of water in
order to make the vehicle. This is to be thickened with the following
materials in order to get the desired color: White, barium sulphate or
white lead; yellow, baryta chromate, ocher, or uranium yellow; green,
chromium oxide or ultramarine green; brown, cadmium oxide, manganese
oxide, or sienna brown; red, either iron or chrome red. The coloring
materials must be free from lumps, and well ground in with the vehicle.
Bronze powders may also be used either alone or mixed with other
coloring stuffs, but care must be taken, in either instance, to secure
a sufficient quantity. The colors should be made up as wanted, and no
more than can conveniently be applied at the time should be prepared.
An excellent way to use the bronze powders is to lay on the coloring
matter, and then to dust on the powder before the glass sets. Lines
or ornamentation of any sort may be put on by allowing the coating of
enamel to dry, and then drawing the lines or any desired design with a
fresh solution of the water glass colored to suit the taste, or dusted
over with bronze.
«MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES:»
«Russian Polishing Lac.»—
I.—Sticklac 925 parts
Sandarac 875 parts
Larch turpentine 270 parts
Alcohol, 96 per cent 3,500 parts
The sticklac is broken up and mixed with the sandarac, put into a
suitable container with a wide mouth, the spirit poured over it and set
aside. After standing for a week in a warm place, frequently stirring
in the meantime (best with a glass rod) and fully dissolving, stir
in the turpentine. Let stand 2 or 3 days longer, then filter through
glass wool. The sandarac dissolves completely in the spirit, but the
stick leaves a slight residue which may be added to the next lot of
lac made up and thus be treated to a fresh portion of spirit. The
larch turpentine should be of the best quality. This lac is used by
woodcarvers and turners and is very much prized by them.
«Mastic Lac.»—
II.—Mastic, select 150 parts
Sandarac 400 parts
Camphor 15 parts
Alcohol, 96 per cent 1,000 parts
Prepare as directed in the first recipe.
«Leather Polish Lac.»—
III.—Shellac 16 parts
Venice turpentine 8 parts
Sandarac 4 parts
Lampblack, Swedish 2 parts
Turpentine oil 4 parts
Alcohol, 96 per cent 960 parts
The alcohol and turpentine oil are mixed and warmed under constant
stirring in the sand or water bath. The shellac and sandarac are now
stirred in, the stirring being maintained until both are dissolved.
Finally add the turpentine and dissolve. Stir the lampblack with a
little vinegar and then add and stir in. Instead of lampblack 125 to
150 parts of nigrosin may be used. This lac should be well shaken
before application.
LACQUERED WARE, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
LAKES: See Dyes.
«LAMPBLACK:»
Production of Lampblack.—The last oil obtained in the distillation of
coal tar, and freed from naphthalene as far as possible, viz., soot
oil, is burned in a special furnace for the production of various
grades of lampblack. In this furnace is an iron plate, which must
always be kept glowing; upon this plate the soot oil trickles through a
small tube fixed above it. It is decomposed and {442} the smoke (soot)
rises into four chambers through small apertures. When the quantity
of oil destined for decomposition has been used up, the furnace is
allowed to stand undisturbed for a few days, and only after this time
has elapsed are the chambers opened by windows provided for that
purpose. In the fourth chamber is the very finest lampblack, which
the lithographers use, and in the third the fine grade employed by
manufacturers of printers’ ink, while the first and second contain the
coarser soot, which, well sifted, is sold as flame lampblack.
From grade No. 1 the calcined lampblack for paper makers is also
produced. For preparing this black capsules of iron plate with closing
lid are filled, the stuff is stamped firmly into them and the cover
smeared up with fine loam. The capsules are next placed in a well
drawing stove and calcined, whereby the empyreumatic oils evaporate and
the remaining lampblack becomes odorless. Allow the capsules to cool
for a few days before opening them, as the soot dries very slowly, and
easily ignites again as soon as air is admitted if the capsules are
opened before. This is semi-calcined lampblack.
For the purpose of preparing completely calcined lampblack, the
semi-calcined article is again jammed into fresh capsules, closing
them up well and calcining thoroughly once more. After 2 days the
capsules are opened containing the all-calcined lampblack in compact
pieces.
For the manufacture of coal soot another furnace is employed. Asphalt
or pitch is burned in it with exclusion of air as far as practicable.
It is thrown in through the doors, and the smoke escapes through the
chimney to the soot chambers, 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, assorting itself there.
When the amount of asphalt pitch destined for combustion has burned up
completely, the furnace is left alone for several days without opening
it. After this time has elapsed the outside doors are slowly opened and
some air is admitted. Later on they can be opened altogether after one
is satisfied that the soot has cooled completely. Chamber 4 contains
the finest soot black, destined for the manufacture of leather cloth
and oil cloth. In the other chambers is fine and ordinary flame black,
which is sifted and packed in suitable barrels. Calcined lampblack may
also be produced from it, the operation being the same as for oil black.
LAMP BURNERS AND THEIR CARE: See Household Formulas.
«LAMPS:»
«Coloring Incandescent Lamps.»—Incandescent light globes are colored by
dipping the bulbs into a thin solution of collodion previously colored
to suit with anilines soluble in collodion. Dip and rotate quickly,
bulb down, till dry.
For office desks, room lights, and in churches, it appears often
desirable to modify the glaring yellowish rays of the incandescent
light. A slight collodion film of a delicate bluish, greenish, or pink
shade will do that.
For advertising purposes the bulbs are often colored in two or more
colors. It is also easy with a little practice to paint words or
pictures, etc., on the bulbs with colored collodion with a brush.
Another use of colored collodion in pharmacy is to color the show
globes on their inside, thus avoiding freezing and the additional
weight of the now used colored liquids. Pour a quantity of colored
collodion into the clean, dry globe, close the mouth and quickly let
the collodion cover all parts of the inside. Remove the balance of the
collodion at once, and keep it to color electric bulbs for your trade.
LANOLINE CREAMS: See Cosmetics.
LANOLINE SOAP: See Soap.
LANTERN SLIDES: See Photography.
«LARD:»
«Detection of Cottonseed Oil in Lard.»—Make a 2 per cent solution of
silver nitrate in distilled water, and acidify it by adding 1 per cent
of nitrate acid, C. P. Into a test tube put a sample of the suspected
lard and heat gently until it liquefies. Now add an equal quantity of
the silver nitrate solution, agitate a little, and bring to a boil.
Continue the boiling vigorously for about 8 minutes. If the lard remain
clear and colorless, it may be accepted as pure. The presence of
cottonseed oil or fat will make itself known by a coloration, varying
from yellow, grayish green to brown, according to the amount present.
LATHE LUBRICANT: See Lubricants. {443}
LAUNDRY INKS: See Household Formulas.
«Laundry Preparations»
«BLUING COMPOUNDS:»
«Laundry Blue.»—The soluble blue of commerce, when properly made,
dissolves freely in water, and solutions so made are put up as liquid
laundry blue. The water employed in making the solution should be free
from mineral substances, especially lime, or precipitation may occur.
If rain water or distilled water and a good article of blue be used,
a staple preparation ought apparently to result; but whether time
alone affects the matter of solubility it is impossible to state. As
it is essential that the solution should be a perfect one, it is best
to filter it through several thicknesses of fine cotton cloth before
bottling; or if made in large quantities this method may be modified by
allowing it to stand some days to settle, when the top portion can be
siphoned off for use, the bottom only requiring filtration.
This soluble blue is said to be potassium ferri-ferrocyanide, and
is prepared by gradually adding to a boiling solution of potassium
ferricyanide (red prussiate of potash) an equivalent quantity of hot
solution of ferrous sulphate, boiling for 2 hours and washing the
precipitate on a filter until the washings assume a dark-blue color;
the moist precipitate can then at once be dissolved by the further
addition of a sufficient quantity of water. About 64 parts of the iron
salt are necessary to convert 100 parts of the potassium salt into the
blue compound.
Leaf bluing for laundry use may be prepared by coating thick sized
paper with soluble blue formed into a paste with a mixture of dextrin
mucilage and glycerine. Dissolve a given quantity of dextrine in
water enough to make a solution about as dense as ordinary syrup, add
about as much glycerine as there was dextrine, rub the blue smooth
with a sufficient quantity of this vehicle and coat the sheets with
the paint. The amount of blue to be used will depend of course on the
intended cost of the product, and the amount of glycerine will require
adjustment so as to give a mixture which will not “smear” after the
water has dried out and yet remain readily soluble.
Ultramarine is now very generally used as a laundry blue where the
insoluble or “bag blue” is desired. It is mixed with glucose, or
glucose and dextrine, and pressed into balls or cakes. When glucose
alone is used, the product has a tendency, it is said, to become soft
on keeping, which tendency may be counteracted by a proper proportion
of dextrin. Bicarbonate of sodium is added as a “filler” to cheapen the
product, the quantity used and the quality of the ultramarine employed
being both regulated by the price at which the product is to sell.
The coal-tar or aniline blues are not offered to the general public as
laundry blues, but laundry proprietors have them frequently brought
under their notice, chiefly in the form of solutions, usually 1 to
1 1/2 per cent strong. These dyes are strong bluing materials, and,
being in the form of solution, are not liable to speck the clothes.
Naturally their properties depend upon the particular dye used; some
are fast to acids and alkalies, others are fast to one but not to
another; some will not stand ironing, while others again are not
affected by the operation; generally they are not fast to light, but
this is only of minor importance. The soluble, or cotton, blues are
those most favored; these are made in a great variety of tints, varying
from a reddish blue to a pure blue in hue, distinguished by such brands
as 3R, 6B, etc. Occasionally the methyl violets are used, especially
the blue tints. Blackley blue is very largely used for this purpose,
being rather faster than the soluble blues. It may be mentioned that a
1 per cent solution of this dye is usually strong enough. Unless care
is taken in dissolving these dyes they are apt to produce specks. The
heat to which the pure blues are exposed in ironing the clothes causes
some kinds to assume a purple tinge.
The cheapest aniline blue costs about three times as much as soluble
blue, yet the tinctorial power of the aniline colors is so great that
possibly they might be cheapened.
«Soluble Blue.»—I.—Dissolve 217 parts of prussiate of potash in 800
parts of hot water and bring the whole to 1,000 parts. Likewise
dissolve 100 parts of ferric chloride in water and bring the solution
also to 1,000 parts. To each of these solutions add 2,000 parts of
cooking salt or Glauber’s salt solution saturated in the cold and mix
well. The solutions thus prepared of prussiate of potash and ferric
chloride are now mixed together with stirring. Allow to settle and
remove by suction the clear liquid containing undecomposed ferrocyanide
of {444} potassium and Glauber’s salt; this is kept and used for
the next manufacture by boiling it down and allowing the salts to
crystallize out. The percentage of ferrocyanide of potassium is
estimated by analysis, and for the next production proportionally less
is used, employing that obtained by concentration.
After siphoning off the solution the precipitate is washed with warm
water, placed on a filter and washed out on the latter by pouring on
cold water until the water running off commences to assume a strong
blue color. The precipitate is then squeezed out and dried at a
moderate heat (104° F.). The Paris blue thus obtained dissolves readily
in water and can be extensively employed in a similar manner as indigo
carmine.
II.—Make ordinary Prussian blue (that which has been purified by acids,
chlorine, or the hypochlorites) into a thick paste with distilled or
rain water, and add a saturated solution of oxalic acid sufficient
to dissolve. If time be of no consequence, by leaving this solution
exposed to the atmosphere, in the course of 60 days the blue will be
entirely precipitated in soluble form. Wash with weak alcohol and dry
at about 100° F. The resultant mass dissolves in pure water and remains
in solution indefinitely. It gives a deep, brilliant blue, and is not
injurious to the clothing or the hands of the washwoman.
The same result may be obtained by precipitating the soluble blue from
its oxide solution by the addition of alcohol of 95 per cent, or with
a concentrated solution of sodium sulphate. Pour off the mother liquid
and wash with very dilute alcohol; or throw on a filter and wash with
water until the latter begins to come off colored a deep blue.
«Liquid Laundry Blue.»—This may be prepared either with liquid Prussian
blue or indigo carmine. Make a solution of gum dragon (gum tragacanth)
by dissolving 1 to 2 ounces of the powdered gum in 1 gallon of cold
water in which 1/2 ounce oxalic acid has been dissolved. The gum will
take several days to dissolve, and will require frequent stirring and
straining before use. To the strained portion add as much Prussian blue
in fine powder as the liquid will dissolve without precipitating, and
the compound is ready for use.
Instead of powdered Prussian blue, soluble Prussian blue may be used.
This is made by dissolving solid Prussian blue in a solution of oxalic
acid, but as the use of oxalic acid is to be deprecated for the use
of laundresses, as it would set up blood poisoning should it get into
any cuts in the flesh, it is best to prepare liquid blue by making a
solution of yellow prussiate of potash (ferrocyanide of potassium) with
water, and then by adding a sufficient quantity of chloride of iron to
produce a blue, but not enough to be precipitated.
«Ball Blue.»—The ball sold for laundry use consists usually, if not
always, of ultramarine. The balls are formed by compression, starch or
some other excipient of like character being added to render the mass
cohesive. Blocks of blue can, of course, be made by the same process.
The manufacturers of ultramarine prepare balls and cubes of the pigment
on a large scale, and it does not seem likely that there would be a
sufficient margin of profit to justify the making of them in a small
way from the powdered pigment. Careful experiments, however, would
be necessary to determine this positively. Ultramarine is of many
qualities, and it may be expected that the balls will vary also in the
amount of “filling” according to the price at which they are to be sold.
Below is a “filled” formula:
Ultramarine 6 ounces
Sodium carbonate 4 ounces
Glucose 1 ounce
Water, a sufficient quantity.
Make a thick paste, roll into sheets, and cut into tablets. The balls
in bulk can be obtained only in large packages of the manufacturers,
say barrels of 200 pounds; but put up in 1-pound boxes they can be
bought in cases as small as 28 pounds.
«Laundry Blue Tablets.»—
Ultramarine 6 ounces
Sodium carbonate 4 ounces
Glucose 1 ounce
Water, a sufficient quantity.
Make a thick paste, roll into sheets, and cut into tablets.
«Polishes or Glazes for Laundry Work.»—I.—To a mixture of 200 parts
each of Japan wax and paraffine, add 100 parts of stearic acid, melt
together, and cast in molds. If the heated smoothing iron be rubbed
with this wax the iron will not merely get over the surface much more
rapidly, but will leave a handsome polish.
«Laundry Gloss Dressing.»—
II.—Dissolve white wax, 5.0 parts, in ether, 20.5 parts, and add
spirit, 75.0 parts. Shake before use.